See the Honda iCTDi video, the inlet is split into two so half of is is controlled by an intake swirl valve. EGR and intake feed all ports. The reason why they will have blocked will be due to air velocity through the manifold. It will be slower where it has blocked.
Thanks for the video. I got a Honda Civic 2.2 Hatchback and a P2006 code with it and I'm gonna clear the intake and EGR as well to see if I can get that away. It has 300k km and very likely it may have never been cleaned.
Do you notice major improvements? Mine has 300.000 km and running pretty well, but I think at least EGR cleaning would be a nice operation with its mileage.
I have cleaned mine, but just the valve and I see major improvement. Better low torque as per previous reply and almost no turbo lag. Engine is accelerating smoother and its more eager to go as you put your foot on accelerator
:) don't know. the principles are similar... you take it out, you clean it and put it back. the 2012 i would expect to have electronic control vs vacuum on the old
That the car has problems until you clean the egr, I have the same one and I found the egr clogged, check on it limits my power and it goes into limp mode if I accelerate it and it is limited to 2k /min with you av
@@BestCarMods i have same engine (n22a1) and with engine check warning, went to the garage to check it out, they plugged it in and it says swirl claps fault 😬
I've had the P2004 code show up couple of times and thought previously that the gasses from the egr went through the flap part. Could the carbon build up so that the flap can't move properly? I am planning on doing the whole intake and egr cleaning but I just realized from this video that you can remove the flap part only, is this right?
I don't think that you can get the flap that dirty. you will get the deposits mostly in the intake port + valves + intake plume n1/2 of it. I am curious what you find on your car.
So im going to be doing this soon on my 2015 328d sportwagon, but i have a code that pops up for cylinder1 injector learning maxxed out, it comes and goes but the car never has performance issues that i notice. Any idea what it may be? Slightly Clogged injector trying to compensate for loss of volume due to clog? Fuel filter and water separator already changed, air filter changed, oil always at 5000 miles. Transmission fluid, pads, rotors and transfer case all replaced. EGR was replaced under recall. The guys at the shop did spill oil all over the engine once when filling it and i've wondered it that could have seeped down into the hole and caused some sort of an issue?
I have 2008 same car, I would like to do the same clean but wouldn't want to take apart all the wiring and fuel line incase I can't remember how to put back together. Mine has 120k miles, runs good but I bet it is caked in soot just the same. I live Manchester. Hint hint 😉
you can't do it without removing the intake. I have seen some guys advertising a special foam that you put in the intake and it might help. never tried it. don't worry to much about not knowing how to put them back, they are designed to fit easily back, you will see that it is much more simple to refit that to remove. just take your time
Do you know the possible reasons why this engine sounds so clattery? It sounds like a truck or old tractor engine, but they should be smooth and pretty quiet.
@@BestCarMods ah, that makes sense. Good vid btw.. I dread to think what mine looks like, I know it’s a job that I’ll have to do soon. Was there something to indicate that the manifold was blocked up?
@@BestCarMods Don't you have a manual fuel pump to prime the system? I believe it is not good to crank the engine so much without because the high pressure diesel pump is running "dry" and could get damaged. Otherwise good job for the manifold cleaning! I want to clean mine too (2007 Civic) but my mechanic doesn't want to do it - says there is no point since the car doesn't have obvious problems. Still I think there is something wrong - engine shakes too much on shutdown but I don't know if it is related.
@@DimitarDobrinov You have, however because you removed common rail and injector lines there is a lot of air in the system. that pump will help you more for an oil filter change.
@@BestCarMods I think you meant fuel filter. Thanks for the vid, I'm a DIY mechanic and got the EGR code last week, you gave me the fuel to start the disassembly fire :P
See the Honda iCTDi video, the inlet is split into two so half of is is controlled by an intake swirl valve. EGR and intake feed all ports. The reason why they will have blocked will be due to air velocity through the manifold. It will be slower where it has blocked.
Thanks for the video. I got a Honda Civic 2.2 Hatchback and a P2006 code with it and I'm gonna clear the intake and EGR as well to see if I can get that away. It has 300k km and very likely it may have never been cleaned.
let me know how it looks inside ... for my accord one of the ports was completely clogged up
Good job buddy, thank you for video.
Do you notice major improvements? Mine has 300.000 km and running pretty well, but I think at least EGR cleaning would be a nice operation with its mileage.
better low rev torque
I have cleaned mine, but just the valve and I see major improvement. Better low torque as per previous reply and almost no turbo lag. Engine is accelerating smoother and its more eager to go as you put your foot on accelerator
Is the removal of the egr in the 2012 i-dtec Accord the same as in your model?
:) don't know. the principles are similar... you take it out, you clean it and put it back. the 2012 i would expect to have electronic control vs vacuum on the old
The idtec is different
That the car has problems until you clean the egr, I have the same one and I found the egr clogged, check on it limits my power and it goes into limp mode if I accelerate it and it is limited to 2k /min with you av
good video. is there no swirl flaps on this engine?
by the looks of it no. I had to rewatch the video as I forgot it :)
@@BestCarMods i have same engine (n22a1) and with engine check warning, went to the garage to check it out, they plugged it in and it says swirl claps fault 😬
I think it has only one flap that controls air to the second air port of each cylinder@@aut0matt
@@BestCarMods that’s what I worked out, controlled by solenoid which is probably faulty I’m guessing or egr is clogged up
Hi where's location of PCV valve on that engine thank you
don't know by heart need to see the engine.
@@BestCarMods thank you.i really appreciate.
I've had the P2004 code show up couple of times and thought previously that the gasses from the egr went through the flap part. Could the carbon build up so that the flap can't move properly? I am planning on doing the whole intake and egr cleaning but I just realized from this video that you can remove the flap part only, is this right?
I don't think that you can get the flap that dirty. you will get the deposits mostly in the intake port + valves + intake plume n1/2 of it. I am curious what you find on your car.
So im going to be doing this soon on my 2015 328d sportwagon, but i have a code that pops up for cylinder1 injector learning maxxed out, it comes and goes but the car never has performance issues that i notice. Any idea what it may be? Slightly Clogged injector trying to compensate for loss of volume due to clog? Fuel filter and water separator already changed, air filter changed, oil always at 5000 miles. Transmission fluid, pads, rotors and transfer case all replaced. EGR was replaced under recall. The guys at the shop did spill oil all over the engine once when filling it and i've wondered it that could have seeped down into the hole and caused some sort of an issue?
never had that type of issue, you will need to use the feedback from ISTA to troubleshoot.
I have 2008 same car, I would like to do the same clean but wouldn't want to take apart all the wiring and fuel line incase I can't remember how to put back together. Mine has 120k miles, runs good but I bet it is caked in soot just the same. I live Manchester. Hint hint 😉
you can't do it without removing the intake. I have seen some guys advertising a special foam that you put in the intake and it might help. never tried it. don't worry to much about not knowing how to put them back, they are designed to fit easily back, you will see that it is much more simple to refit that to remove. just take your time
Record everything you do with your phone. Impossible to forget after that.
Do you know the possible reasons why this engine sounds so clattery? It sounds like a truck or old tractor engine, but they should be smooth and pretty quiet.
honda engines sound very metally for me. very high pitch vs audi ... bmw ....
@@BestCarMods got same engine but sounds way better
I'm guessing that its because he was recording inside the garage? It made me think my 2004 2.2i ctdi sounded like it was new..
@@johnmac4094 starting it after the fuel system has been disconnected will make it sound rough.
@@BestCarMods ah, that makes sense. Good vid btw.. I dread to think what mine looks like, I know it’s a job that I’ll have to do soon. Was there something to indicate that the manifold was blocked up?
Why is it turning over so long before it starts up?
fuel system has air in it.
@@BestCarMods Don't you have a manual fuel pump to prime the system? I believe it is not good to crank the engine so much without because the high pressure diesel pump is running "dry" and could get damaged. Otherwise good job for the manifold cleaning! I want to clean mine too (2007 Civic) but my mechanic doesn't want to do it - says there is no point since the car doesn't have obvious problems. Still I think there is something wrong - engine shakes too much on shutdown but I don't know if it is related.
@@DimitarDobrinov You have, however because you removed common rail and injector lines there is a lot of air in the system. that pump will help you more for an oil filter change.
@@BestCarMods I think you meant fuel filter. Thanks for the vid, I'm a DIY mechanic and got the EGR code last week, you gave me the fuel to start the disassembly fire :P