This product is applied in one single coat. So there’s no need for a second. In my experience if applied correctly it also leaves a far superior finish to typical wood stain. I personal don’t like traditional wood stains with a urethane coat on top. For me you achieve a better finish in a quicker time. Rubio is the standard in my furniture shop.
@@krehbein yes, but I buy soft, dense ones from Amazon. The ones with the wood stick handle. Works great to hold the Rubio, but also apply it sparingly.
Yes if you want it really black, use the precolor black and then black or charcoal 2c Here is an example of recolor and then charcoal. www.hazeloakfarms.com/products/charcoal-black-ash-industrial-side-c-table?_pos=4&_sid=330a0a9e7&_ss=r&variant=33880742330504
Serious question not trying to be critical. Considering how expensive Rubio is, is there a reason why you initially apply it so heavily to then just work hard to rub it in and wipe it off? Do you find light areas if you try and "stretch it"? Thanks!
Good question. I just try for an even coat. Sometimes even do two coats on certain woods. I’m not really concerned about cost, but rather a quality finish.
Yes, but more product does not increase the level of darkness. Much less product would achieve the exact same results. The oil adheres to untreated sanded wood. Once it attaches itself to the grain structure the process is just wiping it off. It is NOT like a traditional wood stain like MinWax, which does get darker after multiple coats.
Hazel Oak notice that you didn't do the white ScotchBrite (tm) power buff step? I see that in many other videos on Rubio's Monocoat? So not needed or not needed because of the stain component in this mix? Nice looking table top. Did you consider an ammonia bag fumigation and then just use Rubio Pure?
The stain will look different on different wood species. The Monocoat website has a color page that will let you see what their over 50 colors will look like on several different species of wood. It's extremely helpful when choosing a color.
I have a cherry slab I plan on using rubio monocoat on but I'm looking for a walnut finished color. What color rubio would you recommend using to achieve that goal?
I have a cherry slab I plan on using rubio monocoat on but I'm looking for a walnut finished color. What color rubio would you recommend using to achieve that goal?
This looks absolutely gorgeous! thanks for making this video
Thank you! Appreciate the kind words!
Looks really good. Im about use rubio for first time on a walnut table top. Using the pure.
I was skeptical when I read you were staining quarter sawn white oak black but it looks great
How soon after finishing bottom did you wait to flip over to finish top?
I wait sometimes an hour, sometimes 1 day
How is this different vs. just applying a common wood stain?
This product is applied in one single coat. So there’s no need for a second. In my experience if applied correctly it also leaves a far superior finish to typical wood stain. I personal don’t like traditional wood stains with a urethane coat on top. For me you achieve a better finish in a quicker time. Rubio is the standard in my furniture shop.
Great application video! Love how it came out!
Thanks guys! We love your finishing products!
What would you use for not-flat surfaces like a cabinet. Cotton? Microfiber? Blue paper towel? White pad from Rubio?
I prefer using a foam brush like this on those surfaces. Then just buffing off with a cheap white cotton cloth
@@HazelOakFarms Do you mean those disposable ones from home depot/lowes? I’ll try that, thanks!
@@krehbein yes, but I buy soft, dense ones from Amazon. The ones with the wood stick handle. Works great to hold the Rubio, but also apply it sparingly.
@@HazelOakFarms thanks, will try that tonight
I wanna do it on a guitar, i want it black, so i can use the pre color in black, and then the black 2C ?
Yes if you want it really black, use the precolor black and then black or charcoal 2c
Here is an example of recolor and then charcoal. www.hazeloakfarms.com/products/charcoal-black-ash-industrial-side-c-table?_pos=4&_sid=330a0a9e7&_ss=r&variant=33880742330504
Hos did you Connect the boards? Making a similar table myself
Wood glue
Serious question not trying to be critical. Considering how expensive Rubio is, is there a reason why you initially apply it so heavily to then just work hard to rub it in and wipe it off? Do you find light areas if you try and "stretch it"? Thanks!
Good question. I just try for an even coat. Sometimes even do two coats on certain woods. I’m not really concerned about cost, but rather a quality finish.
Yes, but more product does not increase the level of darkness. Much less product would achieve the exact same results. The oil adheres to untreated sanded wood. Once it attaches itself to the grain structure the process is just wiping it off. It is NOT like a traditional wood stain like MinWax, which does get darker after multiple coats.
Awesome! Can it be used for cutting boards?
I don't think you are supposed to use for cutting boards
Wouldn't it be cheaper to seal the Bottom side with something different? Let's say polyurethane?
With this design you can see the whole bottom side. So really it doesn't matter what it costs, it needs to look good.
Good sir
Hazel Oak notice that you didn't do the white ScotchBrite (tm) power buff step? I see that in many other videos on Rubio's Monocoat? So not needed or not needed because of the stain component in this mix? Nice looking table top. Did you consider an ammonia bag fumigation and then just use Rubio Pure?
It isn't needed. I've done it before, but not needed. Just buff it off with a cotton towel. But make sure you get all the extra finish off.
This was “black”?
The stain will look different on different wood species. The Monocoat website has a color page that will let you see what their over 50 colors will look like on several different species of wood. It's extremely helpful when choosing a color.
Yes. 'Black' - Oil plus 2C
@@RachelWillismydisorganizedlife It is helpful, but I always recommend staining a sample board first. They only sand the samples to 120 grit.
I’m a year late but I need to refinish a similar size table. Do you think the 350ml size would be enough just for the top surface?
Yes that should be enough for the top.
He used too much. Do both sides to prevent cupping/warping
Very nice! What sanding grits did you use? I read Rubio doesn’t recommend above 120?
Jacob Mailman 180 grit. But I water pop between grits, and use the cleaner.
You can use above 120 as long as you water pop, use the cleaner and finish with 120 grit.
I have a cherry slab I plan on using rubio monocoat on but I'm looking for a walnut finished color. What color rubio would you recommend using to achieve that goal?
I have a cherry slab I plan on using rubio monocoat on but I'm looking for a walnut finished color. What color rubio would you recommend using to achieve that goal?
Перерасход дикий
I'm a mission builder of many tables should have used trans tennent-brown mahogany
this is what the customer requested