whenever you are doing any modification to stepper shaft (or any motor really) , cover the motor with tape/foil to avoid getting metal shavings inside bearing or sticking to magnets. dont ask me how i found out.
Mark, this video is a fantastic demonstration of ‘tool bootstrapping’……. Improving a tool capabilities with available tools and then improving them further as the supporting tools keep getting better. 👍😎👍
@@RotarySMP I often make a 3d printed part as a proof of concept, intending to machine something based off the same 3d model afterward. More and more I am happy with the 3d printed version, especially if I print in PETG. The comparative effort is so low, it really saves a ton of time/headache.
If you can somehow create two feed speeds w/ your stepper you'll probably appreciate it. Fast for soft woods, slow for hard woods. Many modern planers have this feature.
I have an encoder so I have continuously variable speed. I just need to move the jumper to the the next higher pulse frequency range. I'm just printing the new mount and will change the jumper when I install it.
I haven’t thought about Inca for many years. I still have their brochures from some time ago when I was thinking of buying their table saw. Most of their equipment back then had hard anodized aluminum tables. Somewhat unique designs.
Great video! I thought of a couple of upgrades if you are planning on doing a bit more woodworking. How about a cover (3-D printed) with a vacuum port that could catch the chips and dust. As this is a jointer/planer and has to be "folded" to be a planer, I am not sure how that would work, but it might keep Mrs. SMP from complaining about the dust in the house. Also consider a helical cutter head. They are quieter, draw less current, and leave a better finish. Plus with the carbide inserts, they basically never get dull. Thanks so much for posting!
Thanks Andrew. Yeah, I do need to come up with some dust extraction for this machine, as it makes a huge mess. Those helical carbide insert cutters look really nice, but are pretty dear. More expensive than this machine was.
20:14 I have a suggestion for the next iteration of your mounting block... When you reprint it, not only alter the holes and corners as you've already mentioned, but also add a 4th mounting hole to pick up that 4th mounting spot on the planer (I saw WAY too much flex when you first installed it), but also try adding a spring tensioner to it as well so the chain is always kept at the proper tension during use, but is easy to remove when needed...
Thanks Nicolas, Do you have a VPN or ad blocker? The link directs through their affiliate marketing provider, so VPN's and ad blockers seem to block it.
Hi Heather. I kept looking for ages for a small 3ph motor with a built in reduction, so I coule just run everything off 3Ph, but never did. This is a rather over complicated solution, but now it is done I can forget it was complicated and just enjoy nice flat boards :)
A stupid question. Does the original CNC have an input for the stroke position on the slotting head? I have never encountered a OEM cnc with a slotting attachment. Not a common attachment amongst other CNC machines. Very Nice.
@@squelchstuff This Maho doesn't even have spindle RPM feedback, that came with the E2 model, with a simplified gearbox and large DC servo as spindle drive.
Curious about your feeds and speeds for slotting. Aware of the lack of head position (spindel rotation) feedback I guess you feed continuously…but a very very small amount at a time to not break anything?
@@andli461 Yeah, I did this feed manually, with the hand encoder set at 0.01 per click. I dont have much experience with slotting, but would guess I was only feeding at about 2-5mm/min, if that.
Those Knipex parallel smooth jaw pliers are fantastic. I only need to get the 250mm ones to have the full set. Mind you the Wera Joker self setting spanners are really good too.
Hello Mark, A good job done there... I was thinking you could maybe made some sort of chain tensioner running for the right hand safety guards casing stud... it would then give you slightly more wrap around on the top right hand sprocket... An enjoyable video, thank you. Take care. Paul,,
Hope you can get the speed back, the 20:1 might be what you are fighting. Damn impressive prints from the bamboo. Good to see a chain messed with. Maybe add a idler, I hate taking assemblies apart for adjustment.
Thanks Bill. Yeah, that little puls generator has three pulse frequency ranges, so I just need to move the jumper over. I am just making the adjustments to the motor mount and will print the final one in ASA. I'll replace the four nuts with two threaded plates to give more clamping area. As the drive roller slips on the wood rather than stalling or the chain jumping, I guess I dont need more wrap.
Not necessary. That pulse generator had three pulse frequency ranges, selected with a jumper. I just had a play with it, and between them and the various motor drived steps/rev settings have found the sweet spot for this machine.
maybe think about mounting the motor rigidly to the plate and putting the slots on the mounting bolts, that way you can adjust the chain slack without taking the whole thing apart,
you do you, but i always wondered about the odd choice of the stepper motor. imo a series wound ac motor with triac controller would be a much better fit but for some reason a lot of people clinch to over build 24v systems
Since it is a 3Ph machine, I looked for a 3Ph motor with built in reduction, but found nothing suitable. Yeah, the stepper was a crap decision, but I already had it ( and then was so far down that design path I blundered on :/
@@RotarySMP wait, does that machine have a 4 pin plug? Usually these machines have a 5 pin plug as thats residential standard and use the neutral for the switch latching
Use the Hole Part Design operation and you can just select the nominal size and set it to be a clearance hole, and then you don't need to think about changing clearance values on pocketed holes.
@@RotarySMP it's even lazier to use the hole tool since you don't even need to constrain the size of the holes! 😁 In fact, any time you already have any circular reference, such as a boss or round fillet, you can use that for a coaxial hole feature without even making a new sketch. Great for holes in filleted boxes, and boxes 3d print faster with filleted corners so that the print head doesn't have to stop moving!
I just made the same printer mistake on a NEMA 34 mount! I stabilized the loose bits with superglue, and used it for it's intended purpose, which is getting all of the measurements correct. I may print one in PET-CF, to try, or maybe just go with aluminiumium.
I am just printing it again, with the little improvements and error correction in ASA. I am also thinking about casting one in Al, but if the plastic one works, it will likely never get replaced :)
Im not sure if the output gear is too close to the mounting boss but it seems you could probably get one with a proper bore and enough circumference to fix your speed *_and_* keyway problems for a couple of € from Ali...
Hi Jim, I got this one of Amazon (who probably bought it from Ali :) This is fine now. I am just printing the final motor mount, and when I fit that, I will also move the pulse generator jumper to increase the motor speed. Then it should be good to forget it and just use the machine.
Perhaps put a larger drive sprocket on the motor. Just a suggestion. I do have a question. Do the drive rollers “float”? In other words, do they lift slightly when the board is fed into the planer?
Since Autodesk doesn't like my Linux machine in my shop, been looking into Freecad. It's new to me and still have much to learn. It's cold in the Cellar so I don't spend a lot of time there.
With a chain, you can only increment the length by a minimum of 2 links, so intuitively the adjuster slots for the stepper need to be around about that length. Not convinced about allowing The Brown Stuff in your wonderful workshop, mind!
Thank Murray. I am just printing the improved motor mount in ASA. Dont worry, the wood shop is banished to a separate room at the back of the basement.
Decrease the steps per rev in the driver. All that microstepping is not giving you torque. Half step or full step of the 200 steps/rev on the motor would give you the best torque
I had it set for the lowest reolution of 400 steps per rev, but that pulse generator has three frequency bands selectable by jumper. Unfortunately it doesn't have any acceleration settings, so the motor stalls if you try higher rpm with low step counts. This afternoon I played around with it and found the sweet spot to be the highest frequency band with 6400 microsteps.
@@RotarySMP Yeah, no acceleration control is going to be tough on steppers. I found on aliexpress servomotors in the range of 400-600W are with driver included around $150 while a stepper with driver is not very far from that. I always used servos for that reason and not only that, their peak torque is double the nominal one they can be overclocked. The 600W I played last time with rated at 3000rpm I went to 6000rpm
It was a chain of questionable decisions. I tried for ages to find a 3ph geared motor small enough to fit there. I already had the first stepper, and figured I'd need a dc PSU anyway, as I couldn't find the 3Ph option. It would have been better to have used a simple window winder motor. Now I ended up buying another stepper, the reduction gearbox, the PSU, two pinions, a chain, stepper driver, and pulse generator.
@@RotarySMP I like the "questionable" part of your answer 😁 I do get the form factor argument, I was wondering if there were any holding power argument I was missing. Since you already are down a rabbit hole of stepper motors and pulses, you could maybe use an arduino or something to generate the pulse for the driver. If you connect the arduino to a rotary encoder you can have a variable speed drive.
@@SorteBill1514 That is basically what I have. I am using this pulse generator... amzn.to/3DbMB48 So I have continual variable feed control down to stopped.
Repaired an 80s era Taiwanese thicknesser/planer with a chain feed drive 5 or 6 years ago, which had toppled over and bent the sprockets. With the distributor long since gone, and having to buy and modify, found to my chagrin, there's a couple of chain and sprocket standards - and naturally, I would order the wrong one. Was hoping for a repeat, to savour a bit schadenfreude!
A very good way of centering a slotting tool in a bore ive found while using my FP1 with the slotting head is this one: Stick an Indicator stand to the moving part of the slotting head. Now position your indicator needle against your actual slotting tool. Preferably as far down as possible and give the indicator some preload. Now move the slotting tool inside the bore. After that you can use the x axis (at least if you have it set up the way you have) to touch the outer edges of your tool against the bore. This will deflect your tool meaning your indicator will move. So basically what you do is move in x- until the indicator moves, now zero your x axis after that move in x+ until the indicator moves. Now half of your x value marks the central position of your slotting cutter in the bore.
I guess it was a sign of the times. Electronic control was very expensive, and high torque low speed especially so. But yeah, that was not the greatest design to come out of Switzerland.
Since you need adjustment for the motor why not put in a capitve bolt or stud from the back so you don't have to remove the plate every time you need to make an adjustment. You then would be able to loosen the nuts on the front.
Why 3D printing that mount? Not stiff enough, long production time... Aluminium plate will be much, much better. And probably cheaper, faster to produce.. And you already have model.. it's simple enough, not so big deal to transfer it to the MAHO, and do this the proper way. Of course.. once MAHO is operational again. 3D printing is nice thing of course, but not for every job. I just do not like that people push it everywhere, even for the jobs inappropriate for technology. When you need stiffness, rigidity, strength... and you do not have some weird shape... CNC is much better solution, although it's not "modern and fancy"
Yeah, that plastic motor mount is a prototype, so I can make a casting or machined one. Although or course if this works, the metal one will never get made. :) I find it much faster and easier to 3d print, as once I send the part to the printer, I can get on with something else.
Certainly, but then I wouldn't use the slotting head. Actually I did file a flat for the grub screw to act on, and I just realised I forgot to include that clip.
It would have been easier useing a keyway broach, a file is a terrible way to cut a key. Not to mention the time involved filling. This was a neat approach useing the sloting head, you usually see people use a key seater to power broach internal keyways.
whenever you are doing any modification to stepper shaft (or any motor really) , cover the motor with tape/foil to avoid getting metal shavings inside bearing or sticking to magnets. dont ask me how i found out.
Good point. Thanks.
I come here for the nice technical stuff and the tongue in cheek humour. I stay for the reggae music.
Thank a lot for your vote on all those things :)
I’d say the Clarkson is the backbone of your shop. It makes an appearance in almost every video.
Thanks Michael. It is a very handy tool.
Very good use of the vertical shaper.
Thanks Michael. I see you use your shaper a lot.
Mark, this video is a fantastic demonstration of ‘tool bootstrapping’……. Improving a tool capabilities with available tools and then improving them further as the supporting tools keep getting better. 👍😎👍
Thanks for you kind feedback Joel. I am glad you enjoyed it.
You are very lucky for having all the Maho accessories, good job!!!
Yeah, that slotting head came up for sale in Tyrol a few years ago, so I got it. Have not used it much, but it is handy for things like this.
I adore the fact that printers have brought the original concept of making one-of parts back.
Hi Jim. Yeah, it is also nice to be able to make a prototype quickly and iterate through multiple screw ups without excessive effort :)
@@RotarySMP I often make a 3d printed part as a proof of concept, intending to machine something based off the same 3d model afterward. More and more I am happy with the 3d printed version, especially if I print in PETG. The comparative effort is so low, it really saves a ton of time/headache.
If you can somehow create two feed speeds w/ your stepper you'll probably appreciate it. Fast for soft woods, slow for hard woods. Many modern planers have this feature.
I have an encoder so I have continuously variable speed. I just need to move the jumper to the the next higher pulse frequency range. I'm just printing the new mount and will change the jumper when I install it.
@@RotarySMP even better!
@@nickhenscheid369 I just had a play around with that pulse generator and stepper driver and found the sweet spot which gives the speeds it needs.
I haven’t thought about Inca for many years. I still have their brochures from some time ago when I was thinking of buying their table saw. Most of their equipment back then had hard anodized aluminum tables. Somewhat unique designs.
Hi Mel, I am not sure if this table is die cast aluminium, or a zinc allow.
Other than the crappy infeed, I am pretty happy with it.
@ zinc would be odd. Looking at it here I figured it was cast iron. Or is the unit that lightweight?
@@melgross It is quite light, certainly not iron. May well be aluminium, with some sort if hard anodized surface.
Great video! I thought of a couple of upgrades if you are planning on doing a bit more woodworking. How about a cover (3-D printed) with a vacuum port that could catch the chips and dust. As this is a jointer/planer and has to be "folded" to be a planer, I am not sure how that would work, but it might keep Mrs. SMP from complaining about the dust in the house. Also consider a helical cutter head. They are quieter, draw less current, and leave a better finish. Plus with the carbide inserts, they basically never get dull. Thanks so much for posting!
Thanks Andrew. Yeah, I do need to come up with some dust extraction for this machine, as it makes a huge mess.
Those helical carbide insert cutters look really nice, but are pretty dear. More expensive than this machine was.
well done and thank you for bringing us along, all very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it John.
An idler or tensioner wheel would help the chain wrap and simplify tensioning too. Bring on the ska. 👍
Thanks Chris. It seems to be okay with that wrap, and should be a little better once I reprint the mount.
Excellent start to Sunday morning with an excellent close form project. Thanks! Oh, and the slotting head has a kind of stabby motion to it 😬
Hi Vince, it sure does. Kind of like a huge sewing machine.
Glad to see it working. we now need a wood working video soon
Hi Luke. Yeah, I kind of feel like making something in wood again.
@@RotarySMP the steel must be getting a bit cold over there
@@LCalleja It have been really stable weather, with everyday between 2 and 5°C, Luckily my basement doesn't get below about 13°C. How is it in Malta?
@@RotarySMP its not too bad here at about 15 most days :)
@@LCalleja Nice. You barely need to consider thermal expansion (or contraction) :)
Nice going Mark!
Thanks Willem.
20:14 I have a suggestion for the next iteration of your mounting block...
When you reprint it, not only alter the holes and corners as you've already mentioned, but also add a 4th mounting hole to pick up that 4th mounting spot on the planer (I saw WAY too much flex when you first installed it), but also try adding a spring tensioner to it as well so the chain is always kept at the proper tension during use, but is easy to remove when needed...
Great video :) by the way affiliated link to bambulab doesn't work for me ? It's a blank page
Thanks Nicolas,
Do you have a VPN or ad blocker? The link directs through their affiliate marketing provider, so VPN's and ad blockers seem to block it.
Excellent vid as always : you're the mecanelectricity wizzard. Can’t understand why your channel isn’t propelled to 1 million 👍👌🖖
Maybe one day James. Please share a link with people who might also like it.
Well done 👍
Thanks Paul.
Great result there like that gearbox it’s given me a few ideas 😀
Hi Heather. I kept looking for ages for a small 3ph motor with a built in reduction, so I coule just run everything off 3Ph, but never did. This is a rather over complicated solution, but now it is done I can forget it was complicated and just enjoy nice flat boards :)
A stupid question.
Does the original CNC have an input for the stroke position on the slotting head?
I have never encountered a OEM cnc with a slotting attachment. Not a common attachment amongst other CNC machines.
Very Nice.
No it doesn't. So I just did nice slow feed, but theoretically it is rubbing on the return stroke.
I also wondered why no clapper, but the CNC could offset a clearance on the return stroke too. Nice to see all the things in use Mark.
@@squelchstuff This Maho doesn't even have spindle RPM feedback, that came with the E2 model, with a simplified gearbox and large DC servo as spindle drive.
Curious about your feeds and speeds for slotting.
Aware of the lack of head position (spindel rotation) feedback I guess you feed continuously…but a very very small amount at a time to not break anything?
@@andli461 Yeah, I did this feed manually, with the hand encoder set at 0.01 per click. I dont have much experience with slotting, but would guess I was only feeding at about 2-5mm/min, if that.
Good video. Very nice work
Thanks a lot.
Nice Job
Thanks Mike.
14:29 hätte nicht eine Schraube mit unterlagscheibe auf der Welle auch das Zahnrad gehoben?
Danke Viktor, aber Ich bin mir nicht sicher in welche richtung hier gehoben sollte? Der Zahnrad müsstest vollig eingeschoben werden.
Those Knipex parallel smooth jaw pliers are fantastic. I only need to get the 250mm ones to have the full set. Mind you the Wera Joker self setting spanners are really good too.
Hi Bill, yeah, I find myself reaching for the Knippex a lot. Nicely made tool.
“..steps per RPM..”
That one hurt my brain! 😂
I’m certainly not volunteering to narrate a video real time. 😊
You should hear all the nonsense I edit out :)
Hello Mark,
A good job done there... I was thinking you could maybe made some sort of chain tensioner running for the right hand safety guards casing stud... it would then give you slightly more wrap around on the top right hand sprocket... An enjoyable video, thank you.
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks. I guess I could, but it already slips on the wood rather than stalling or the chain jumping, so it is probably enough wrap.
uhg, I'm jealous of the bambu labs printers. gonna have to try and build a Voron for parity.
Hope you can get the speed back, the 20:1 might be what you are fighting. Damn impressive prints from the bamboo. Good to see a chain messed with. Maybe add a idler, I hate taking assemblies apart for adjustment.
Thanks Bill. Yeah, that little puls generator has three pulse frequency ranges, so I just need to move the jumper over.
I am just making the adjustments to the motor mount and will print the final one in ASA. I'll replace the four nuts with two threaded plates to give more clamping area. As the drive roller slips on the wood rather than stalling or the chain jumping, I guess I dont need more wrap.
Time for a bigger sprocket!!
Not necessary. That pulse generator had three pulse frequency ranges, selected with a jumper. I just had a play with it, and between them and the various motor drived steps/rev settings have found the sweet spot for this machine.
maybe think about mounting the motor rigidly to the plate and putting the slots on the mounting bolts, that way you can adjust the chain slack without taking the whole thing apart,
I am just printing V2. It will have captive nuts so I can tighten them from the front. I wanted that on this last one, but screwed up.
you do you, but i always wondered about the odd choice of the stepper motor. imo a series wound ac motor with triac controller would be a much better fit but for some reason a lot of people clinch to over build 24v systems
Since it is a 3Ph machine, I looked for a 3Ph motor with built in reduction, but found nothing suitable. Yeah, the stepper was a crap decision, but I already had it ( and then was so far down that design path I blundered on :/
@@RotarySMP wait, does that machine have a 4 pin plug? Usually these machines have a 5 pin plug as thats residential standard and use the neutral for the switch latching
@@hanswurst-h3e It has a 5 pin socket.
Use the Hole Part Design operation and you can just select the nominal size and set it to be a clearance hole, and then you don't need to think about changing clearance values on pocketed holes.
Good point Michael. It was pretty lazy of me to just put the holes in as circles on the base solid and extrude them.
@@RotarySMP it's even lazier to use the hole tool since you don't even need to constrain the size of the holes! 😁
In fact, any time you already have any circular reference, such as a boss or round fillet, you can use that for a coaxial hole feature without even making a new sketch. Great for holes in filleted boxes, and boxes 3d print faster with filleted corners so that the print head doesn't have to stop moving!
@@MichaelKJohnson Good tips. Thanks Michael.
The final version of the motorplate can be printed "hollow" and filled with epoxy compound and reinforcement.
Interesting concept Sergei. Do you drill a hole to fill though?
@@RotarySMP I print without one surface, which will be "on top" when filling.
There is a suitable filling mode -- "lightning"
@@SergeiPetrov Interesting idea. Thanks.
I just made the same printer mistake on a NEMA 34 mount! I stabilized the loose bits with superglue, and used it for it's intended purpose, which is getting all of the measurements correct. I may print one in PET-CF, to try, or maybe just go with aluminiumium.
I am just printing it again, with the little improvements and error correction in ASA. I am also thinking about casting one in Al, but if the plastic one works, it will likely never get replaced :)
Im not sure if the output gear is too close to the mounting boss but it seems you could probably get one with a proper bore and enough circumference to fix your speed *_and_* keyway problems for a couple of € from Ali...
Hi Jim,
I got this one of Amazon (who probably bought it from Ali :)
This is fine now. I am just printing the final motor mount, and when I fit that, I will also move the pulse generator jumper to increase the motor speed. Then it should be good to forget it and just use the machine.
@RotarySMP INCA tools used to be distributed by Garret Wade here in the USA.
You've got to love Swiss quality and precision! 👍
@@jimurrata6785 It is a really nice machine. A but step up from the crappy chinese ones, but not so heavy that I cant push it around.
Is there a bottom to your toy closet ?
Hi Steve. If I find it, I'll buy a surface grinder and hide it :)
Maybe put the adjustment slots at the mounting location... I'm having 3d printer envy!
Dont really have much space below the lower mounting hole, so I would be easier to adjust once I get the motor screw slots right.
@@RotarySMP At any rate, that material looks great! Nice part print!
@@Johannes58934 I am just printing the final version in ASA.
Does FreeCad still have the thing with one being not able todo sketches on already existing objects? Like klick an sketch..
They have corrected that in V1.0. That was really annoying.
where did you get your heat shrink or this your own made box of??
Heat shrink
EU link - amzn.to/4gbXQYY
USA- link amzn.to/3OUaIHp
Perhaps put a larger drive sprocket on the motor. Just a suggestion. I do have a question. Do the drive rollers “float”? In other words, do they lift slightly when the board is fed into the planer?
Since Autodesk doesn't like my Linux machine in my shop, been looking into Freecad. It's new to me and still have much to learn. It's cold in the Cellar so I don't spend a lot of time there.
Try onshape
Freecad sure has some quirks, but I have become very comfortable with it. It has improved a lot in the last year.
Now that I have retired why are you making me want to buy a new 3D printer 😆
Hi Vince, they really are a very handy tool :)
With a chain, you can only increment the length by a minimum of 2 links, so intuitively the adjuster slots for the stepper need to be around about that length. Not convinced about allowing The Brown Stuff in your wonderful workshop, mind!
Thank Murray. I am just printing the improved motor mount in ASA.
Dont worry, the wood shop is banished to a separate room at the back of the basement.
Decrease the steps per rev in the driver. All that microstepping is not giving you torque. Half step or full step of the 200 steps/rev on the motor would give you the best torque
I had it set for the lowest reolution of 400 steps per rev, but that pulse generator has three frequency bands selectable by jumper. Unfortunately it doesn't have any acceleration settings, so the motor stalls if you try higher rpm with low step counts. This afternoon I played around with it and found the sweet spot to be the highest frequency band with 6400 microsteps.
@@RotarySMP Yeah, no acceleration control is going to be tough on steppers. I found on aliexpress servomotors in the range of 400-600W are with driver included around $150 while a stepper with driver is not very far from that. I always used servos for that reason and not only that, their peak torque is double the nominal one they can be overclocked. The 600W I played last time with rated at 3000rpm I went to 6000rpm
Why did you decide to go for a stepper? Wouldn't a normal DC motor be easier and cheaper?
It was a chain of questionable decisions.
I tried for ages to find a 3ph geared motor small enough to fit there. I already had the first stepper, and figured I'd need a dc PSU anyway, as I couldn't find the 3Ph option. It would have been better to have used a simple window winder motor.
Now I ended up buying another stepper, the reduction gearbox, the PSU, two pinions, a chain, stepper driver, and pulse generator.
@@RotarySMP I like the "questionable" part of your answer 😁
I do get the form factor argument, I was wondering if there were any holding power argument I was missing.
Since you already are down a rabbit hole of stepper motors and pulses, you could maybe use an arduino or something to generate the pulse for the driver. If you connect the arduino to a rotary encoder you can have a variable speed drive.
@@SorteBill1514 That is basically what I have. I am using this pulse generator...
amzn.to/3DbMB48
So I have continual variable feed control down to stopped.
Repaired an 80s era Taiwanese thicknesser/planer with a chain feed drive 5 or 6 years ago, which had toppled over and bent the sprockets. With the distributor long since gone, and having to buy and modify, found to my chagrin, there's a couple of chain and sprocket standards - and naturally, I would order the wrong one.
Was hoping for a repeat, to savour a bit schadenfreude!
Sweet!
Thanks.
Dirty minds all of you!
Projection? :)
A very good way of centering a slotting tool in a bore ive found while using my FP1 with the slotting head is this one:
Stick an Indicator stand to the moving part of the slotting head. Now position your indicator needle against your actual slotting tool. Preferably as far down as possible and give the indicator some preload. Now move the slotting tool inside the bore. After that you can use the x axis (at least if you have it set up the way you have) to touch the outer edges of your tool against the bore. This will deflect your tool meaning your indicator will move. So basically what you do is move in x- until the indicator moves, now zero your x axis after that move in x+ until the indicator moves. Now half of your x value marks the central position of your slotting cutter in the bore.
Thanks for the tip.
I'm still amazed the Swiss did such a crappy design on that mechanical feed 🤣
I guess it was a sign of the times. Electronic control was very expensive, and high torque low speed especially so. But yeah, that was not the greatest design to come out of Switzerland.
Since you need adjustment for the motor why not put in a capitve bolt or stud from the back so you don't have to remove the plate every time you need to make an adjustment. You then would be able to loosen the nuts on the front.
That was the plan, but I was careless and screwed up the slots to capture the nuts on this one. Just printing the replacement.
Why 3D printing that mount?
Not stiff enough, long production time...
Aluminium plate will be much, much better. And probably cheaper, faster to produce..
And you already have model.. it's simple enough, not so big deal to transfer it to the MAHO, and do this the proper way.
Of course.. once MAHO is operational again.
3D printing is nice thing of course, but not for every job.
I just do not like that people push it everywhere, even for the jobs inappropriate for technology.
When you need stiffness, rigidity, strength... and you do not have some weird shape... CNC is much better solution, although it's not "modern and fancy"
Yeah, that plastic motor mount is a prototype, so I can make a casting or machined one. Although or course if this works, the metal one will never get made. :)
I find it much faster and easier to 3d print, as once I send the part to the printer, I can get on with something else.
Wouldn't it have been(at least marginally) easier to file the flat then drill the hole on that sprocket?
Certainly, but then I wouldn't use the slotting head. Actually I did file a flat for the grub screw to act on, and I just realised I forgot to include that clip.
It would have been easier useing a keyway broach, a file is a terrible way to cut a key. Not to mention the time involved filling. This was a neat approach useing the sloting head, you usually see people use a key seater to power broach internal keyways.
@@RotarySMP yeah, I was thinking about the grub screw and trying to drill on a rounded surface
@@danielstjean3476 I dont own a set of broaches, so although the slotting head is a pretty slow method, due to the set up time, it does a nice job.
For those of us that don't speak both Metric and Bananas, 0.25 inches = 6.35 mm
😄😁😆😅😂🤣