#10 Colour Sanding the 71 Camaro | Muscle Car Respray
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2023
- The Camaro is painted, now it's time to colour sand. Howard and the PPG Team show you how they colour sand and polish the paintwork using the Mirka system.
With the plan to give it a light sand and polish, John Hiristias and Howard Astill decide to slice it a bit harder. Follow along as we change our mind and redo the quarters and then the rest of the car.
some 800 was used by hand, then all machine sanded with Mirka Microstar 1500 damp and some Galaxy 1500 dry. Once the desired peel was achieved it was sanded with Mirka Merlon 2000 - 3000. Polishing was then done using the Mirka system.
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Thanks to Perry's Garage for the project
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To me, if the aim was to have a great paint job for a street car, then you have done a fantastic job. Well done. 👏👏👏👏
Totally agree
Another great episode Howard, great information as usual, learnt a lot. Regards John
Glad you enjoyed it
Great content guys ! The liquids, I enjoyed the days where 3m put the grit on the bottle and knew what was what instead of trying to figure it out.
Cheers Mate
No good plan survives first contact with the Enemy! Great video, great to see your process!
You got that right!
Really well put together thankyou Howard..
Looks absolutely fantastic, mate what a awesome looking street car 👌💯😎
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome vids, cheers Howard.
Glad you like them!
Thank you for all the tips and expertise, great stuff. Been watching for awhile and about to tackle my first cut and polish on my first full car paint job, done at home and I have certainly learnt a lot to have a crack, don’t feel so intimidated now, it’s just hours lol 🙂👍
Glad to help
Today i'm watching a lot of your videos (i'm from France) and you won an subscriber, really good job, love learning stuff from you, i'm working in bodywork and painter too i still appreciate your work and videos, ty so much
Welcome aboard! good to have you along Cheers Howard
Top video as always 👌
Thanks 👍
Great work men 👏 👍
Thanks
You got my subscription for sure. Thank you foall the great lessons.
Awesome, thank you!
Continue to learn, thank you.
I am also very interested in how buffing paint actually regains the shine. Silly question, however there has to be some serious chemistry behind it.
It's a process of slowly reducing the size of the scratches from sanding and polishing until there not visible by the naked eye.
This is my type of restoration work .❤ it can be driven and not get a heart attack whan you get a stone cheap.😊
True
It is looking so good howard
Thank you
Smart idea with the tape on the blade - but I have NEVER had runs in my paint - HA. I can recall one cold WINTER day painting a 76 3.0 911 CARREA factory GRAND PRIX WHITE - paint looked PERFECT - the shell was up on stands - the hang-ons were next - the paint had flowed out exceptionally well - no dry spots = no color sanding etc. And therefore - being so pleased with myself - I went inside for my lunch - came back out later = STALACTITES - HA - look that word up if you do not know what it means. Nearly every horizontal edge had them hanging down. I had FU-KED UP and used the SUMMER reducer//slow catalyst (I cannot accurately recall - HA - but I can still picture that paint hanging down towards the floor - HA - that as 40-years ago - still VIVID memories of it - HA) - not the WINTER//fast reducer - HA - what a task getting rid of all the 'vertical rivers' of paint making their way off the body - HA. HA - the rest of the paint was lovely and smooth though - HA. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Yes we have all done it, We had some silicon problems in the early 90's with a respray over existing paint. Put in too many drops to get rid of it and the paintl ran off the edges.
HA - need a t-shirt printed - 'THE BIG BIG BIG RUN CLUB' - HA
Morning Howard, great video and with good info. 10 mins from the end i was looking forward to see hopefully in the following episode how you tackle door hinges. I see on this one you have removed them totally being only two doors in comparison to a sedan, but i would love to see how you manage them without any damage to paint and so on. It is something i am contemplating whether to put them on and paint them and then basically only have the door adjustment which makes it easier, but would love to see the detail in how you manage them. I think that would make a great informative video using your skillset.
Hi, I always remove the hinge completely even on a 4 door. I normally paint the hinges when I'm ready to fit them for the last time. The camaro and Tailspin we pined the hinge to the body by drilling 2 x 1/8" holes to enable them to go back on in the same position for inital installation after paint. With bolts BOSSXC has silver zinc bolts, The Camaro will have black Zinc bolts. If they are painted I paint them seperate with wet on wet epoxy, primer, colour and or clear all very thin coats, after instalation and ajustmet they are brush touched,
@@AstillDesign Thanks for the response Howard, i havent gotten to that yet but i find adjusting the doors so far have been a pain, and was wondering how you have managed them without damaging paint. Thanks again for responding. Its all the painful stuff you have learnt from experience that interest me, the cheats in getting the results. I could sit and watch you adjusting doors from start to finish as an example.
Great informative video. I stress when I get stuff in mine when I don’t use a booth makes me feel good that it happens to everyone that mirka polisher gear is awesome.
Thanks for sharing!!
Makes me wonder-for the people who are building elite cars and outsource the paint etc-if they’re not running a small cartel to cover costs.
600 hours of polishing is hard to compete with. Even after 15 years in the military, I didn’t polish anywhere near that much, and I joined when we still had to shine our own boots 😂
Yes it is at another level. I guess I’m partly to blame but Greg Maskel indicated there was 30,000 hours in the XBOSS build
@@AstillDesignand a seven figure bill at the end of it, from memory. You could almost afford a one bedroom studio in Sydney for that 😂
Great work as usual Howard. I find as a painter going to shows for some reason my eye is always drawn to the flaws in a vehicle which is harsh as like you said 99% of people can't possibly afford to go the whole hog. Also I've found people's expectations in the last say 6-10years have certainly changed because of the amount of talented craftsmen that are out there, but I do find it most certainly comes down to, you do get what you pay for. Gone are the days of 5k resprays at old mates and a slab of beers for ya efforts and to be honest rightfully so. Just my 2 cents lol. Hopefully we'll see some Panel van progress soon?
Yes the quality certainly has gone through the roof, as for the van; I’m as busy as a one legged man in an ass kicking competition. I will get to it though.
Hi Howard, have loved the build series, just wondering if you have ever had trouble getting pigtails in the paint using a wizzer to cut the clear back? i have used film discs before and had this trouble so am worried to do it again even though im looking for the same finish you have achieved here. Thanks!
It is quicker with the Wizz but everything has to super clean. It will be contaminates that are causing the pig tails. Use a quality brand paper.
Nice workmanship .enjoyed watching the show and how's the panel van coming along
Working on it.
Looking great Guys..
A question, the metho-water, what ratio of metho to water do you suggest?
50/50 methylated spirt and distilled water
Thanks Howard, great video and a real appreciation of what’s involved in getting a great finish , for the inexperienced restorers, what sort of cost $ is involved on average for a paint cost like this ? Please
Depending on the shops hourly rate and the condition of the body $30-$50K Filler and paint with a light polish.
HA - years ago - how many hours such equipment would have saved me from color sanding by hand - HA - but I can see a few first timers when using the modern orbital with 1000-2000-3000 going though on some edges etc - HA - and a LOT of SWEARING following. 40 odd years ago I had a tiny pneumatic orbital sander - I think it took an 1/8 of a sheet. I would use 1-200 (or whatever the finest was back then) and constantly dip the running sander into a bucket of water to keep the paper clean, and also using a spray bottle with soapy water - HA - but 1-200 on it could be a disaster near edges - hence it could not be used everywhere - but saved time on some jobs - HA - I thought I as 'state of the art' back then using that. This is not 'bagging' anyone's choices of their 'paint MO' - this is just my personal opinion. On my older car restorations - I like an OEM level of orange peel, and I never use COB for solid colors - but I understand why show cars are flattened and may also use COB for solid colors. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thanks for your input, Cheers H
I'm gobsmacked. And I thought my paint job looked good. It did.
Cheers mate
great video guys - quick question - could you give us the mix ratio of the metho-water you are using? is it straight isopropyl alcohol and distilled water? thanks!
Yes mate 50/50 with distilled water
@@AstillDesign thanks ! 👍
Hey that looks just like the blue they offer on the new GR Corolla. It would look cooler if they do all the detail parts like badges, bumpers and chrome completely in gloss black, I saw a concept car done like that recently and it sure looked a treat
Stayed tuned, there will be plenty of black
Though it was orange with black accents, only works with certain colours though
Hey mate have you tried a tungsten block for denibbing
I did mention them in there somewhere. But no I haven’t used one personally
Fantastic video brother. I'd love to have that paint color code. Or what the name of it is. It's a beautiful color. My 67 nova would be bad to the bone if it was that color.
Its PPG SUPER BLUE from the Hot Licks range 17708
No guide coat to show scratches?
No mate no guide coat, I have seen plenty of people use a guide coat But I dont use one.
What's the go with a cut and buff that soon on fresh paint we won't touch the paint for anything up to 3 4 weeks from time sprayed to allow it time to shrink and whatever else before ya cut and buff as aparantly it's like pores in skin and once opened up the solvents and what not can react with buffing is that something you guys have had any info on
Was my thought also .. especially because it was wet on wet . Just another layer that needs to dry out .. also rattle can primer areas May map over time
Hi, If the work is baked correctly then next day is fine, This is an initial cut and polish, once assembled in about 3 weeks it will have another go over for marks and corrections then 3 stage polish. Leaving it for 3 to 4 weeks will make the cutting process much longer with the harder clear than when its green. I have done it both ways. Some people like to do the initial sand then leave it to breathe before polishing.
@@AstillDesign thanks for that mate
You back on the van soon
🤦♂️
Is there a dent in the boot lid?
It has holes for the boot spoiler fitment
I wasn't sure, that's why I asked
@@michaelnoyes4817you should not ask
In Deutschland ist das eine Standard Lackierung. Mache ich seit fast 40 Jahren.
Die können europäischen Standards nicht erreichen der Basislack hatte zu hohe Viskosität und den noch obendrauf ein sehr schlechter und schwieriger Klarlack
@@konstantintop-painting6882
Ich meinte damit das die Lackierung nichts besonderes oder außergewöhnlich ist. Das kam in dem Video so rüber
Hi, It is not meant to be anything special. If you check out our last build Road to top 60 that is our Elite finish. This is to show how a stock paint finish is acheived.
@@AstillDesign the difference from Europe was the point the car is ok
Terry Noble didn’t get any runs 😉
We all get runs
Would love to see it upclose so hard from my phone
It will ba on the PPG at Summernats if your going