*This is my second WEN tool and they are both great **MyBest.Tools** I needed to do some trim work around the house and needed a scroll saw for the intricate work. No complaints so far.*
Brilliant tip! Not seen this in any of my books. I'll use one block for several sizes of blades marking up each cut for the blade used. Thanks very much.
Excellent! I just got a new scroll saw and I am learning the skills. My practice cuts were somewhat beveled and I thought i would never figure out how to fix that. Then came YOU! Thank you. All good now.
I just finished adjusting my table and did it the hard way this will make it a lot easier in the future. I have one other concern and that is adjusting the blade front to back I guess is how to explain it. The top of the blade is cutting before the bottom of the blade. Any ideas what to do for that? I have a Dewalt 788 and it's been a while since I used it and want to get back to scrolling again. Thanks for your help in advance.
I suggest taking a 1x3 board with a clean cut on one side and using an accurate square, draw a clean fine line from the straight side. Place a b near the bottom of the line. Place the board with the "b" side against the platform and behind the saw blade. View the blade against the line. If there is any variance you should be able to easily see it. Adjust the platform so the blade is visually matching the perpendicular line. Lock down the platform and you are done. Easy and quick.
Hey Dani El, Sorry for the late reply, but you are absolutely correct, this is a very easy tool to use to assure your band saw blade is perpendicular to the table. Just be careful when doing it, band saws can be mean. Bob
Hi there nice video, I was wondering if you could help me out further. I purchased a scroll saw New and the blade is set on a slight angle. I can't adjust the blade on my saw so followed your video and adjusted the table which is now on a slight angle to get a straight cut. I'm just wondering if it's normal for a blade to be set on a slight angle? Or could it be a factory defect? Thanks for your help
I must say that this is a great question and you are the first one I have ever heard ask it. Making the blade square to the tabletop is what is critical for making square cuts. The saw itself being level is not as important to make square cuts, but it is good practice to make sure your saw is as level as possible to keep it from wobbling while cutting which could be detrimental to all of your cutting. Getting a saw perfectly level in most shops can be a challenge because most floors are not perfectly level, so don't stress about getting you table top level to the floor, just make sure your saw is stable and does not move easily...Bob
Is the squareness of the front of the blade important? On my saw the top part of the blade bites into the wood before the bottom of the blade does. Is there any way to adjust the blade to be square in all directions? Thanks
+Clinton T Shuey Hi Clinton, the most common cause for front to back misalignment is improper blade installation. This video will give you a good idea as to what might be going on ua-cam.com/video/ppZeMKlGVXI/v-deo.html If you still have problems, some saws can be adjusted to correct front to back, but most can't and you just need to live with it. I don't know about every saw, I do know Excaliburs can be adjusted. Basically, even with front to back misalignment, if you can make a very tight turn on thin wood and the wood does not chatter back and forth allowing you to make the tight turn, there is nothing to worry about. Just keep on cutting and ignore the misalignment. One more thing, you will almost never find a saw where the front to back is perfectly straight through the entire stroke, they naturally will move in and out a little bit. As long as that movement is not objectionable, there is not fix to be made. Bob
Cool video. I have only been using pinned Olson blades and cutting 3/4" pine. Ive got a bunch of FD pinless blades coming in the mail. The saw has detents made for the pins to go in. So my procedure has been to put the blade in, with the pins in the detents, tension the blade, then tighten the thumbscrews while pushing the back of the blade against the back of the holder, untensioning, dialing the tension up to where I want it, then camming the tension back down. Hopefully I can get something figured out. When Im cutting it will act like it is dull and then suddenly jump forward ripping thru.
Hi Sophie, being in the middle of the table throat doesn't have any effect on cutting, so no, it doesn't matter. Blade tension and alignment of the clamps is most important.
dear sir .. my scroll saw is cutting line like a curve not stright .. even if i change the blade . please advise me how to align the blade not just the table ? thanks
Hi Lenny, most saws can't adjust front to back because it really isn't an issue to be concerned about. You actually want your blade to have a slight front to back angle, it makes the blade cut a little more aggressively, which is good when cutting wood. If you have an "Excalibur" style saw, you can adjust the motor to change front to back, but it is too involved to cover here. And again not necessary unless someone has played with it and messed it up...Bob
Also, the best way to make sure your front to back alignment is acceptable is to make sure your blade is properly installed in the bottom and top clamps. Most of the time excessive F to B misalignment is due to either the top or bottom of the blade not pushed to the back of the clamp.
Max Manpoints Sure you could, but how do you know that it is accurate? The method in the video is not only very simple to do but is inherently accurate and goof proof.
Okay, I just bought a scroll saw and I have a question: Do I have to be "a scroller?" Holy cow it seems like I've joined a secret society by buying a saw. I bought it because sometimes I need small, freehand-shaped pieces such as table saw push sticks, wooden handles to toolboxes, etc. I was going to get a bandsaw but I figured this is lower priced, more compact, more maneuverable for tight corners and the blades are cheaper, so it seemed to make sense. Now I discover that there's a whole culture... Did I buy the wrong product? Good golly, do I HAVE to make "Home Sweet Home" in bubble letters? Would a bandsaw be better for me?
Welcome "Scoller" congrats on your new saw. You might be taking this a bit too seriously. Obviously you can use whatever tool you would like to make whatever you would like. There are no secret societies, hand shakes or passwords required to enjoy using a scroll saw. The only thing that's required is enjoying making things with your hands. If you feel the need to cut out "Home sweet Home" on your new scroll saw, go for it, or cut it on your band saw , your choice. Once you do start using your scroll saw though, after seeing what a versatile and cool tool it is, don't be surprised if you start thinking about new and creative ways to use it. Enjoying woodworking without having to fill your garages up with bandsaws, tablesaws and other large expensive and dangerous woodworking tools is very appealing to the not so serious woodworker. There are many, many people that make incredibly beautiful items with their scroll saw and some actually make good money at it too. Yes we enjoy making, sharing and talking about our creations with others that share our interest, but that's just part of being a human and a scroller...Bob
@@Scrollsawforum1 I was mostly kidding. What I really mean was: "Did I buy the wrong saw for my needs?" I've used it a bit now, aligned it... It's a cheap WEN model with the easier blade changes. What I've learned so far is it doesn't cut as quickly as I'd like, even at fast speed. I'm used to band saws, and what I like to do is more "engineering" than "art". I'm going to be making mounts, handles, levers... functional parts. Do there exist blades with very aggressive teeth? I know this would mean a wider kerf and a sloppier cut, maybe even a thicker, deeper blade which may last longer? Can you refer me to such blades if they exist?
Hey James, I'm not sure. It appears the last 60 secs or so went away, not sure why or how to fix it. But at that point it's just me rambling on anyway, the important parts are still working fine. Thanks for letting me know...Bob
*This is my second WEN tool and they are both great **MyBest.Tools** I needed to do some trim work around the house and needed a scroll saw for the intricate work. No complaints so far.*
7 years later , and this video is still helping folks out.. thanks for the tip!
Still going strong in 2021 too. This helped me out so much. So simple but extremely effective!
Brilliant tip! Not seen this in any of my books. I'll use one block for several sizes of blades marking up each cut for the blade used. Thanks very much.
Excellent! I just got a new scroll saw and I am learning the skills. My practice cuts were somewhat beveled and I thought i would never figure out how to fix that. Then came YOU! Thank you. All good now.
Short and sweet and straight to the point. Good job. Subscribed.
Easy, yet excellent way to align your machine. Easy to do, easy to remember and accurate!
Yea its 2021 and ur teachings are still #1 real talk thank you-! Newbie in Oxnard Califas!
Hey ! thanks for sharing that tip. 👍🏻I learn something every day on the UA-cam.
Thank you so much for the nice easy explanation, took me 5 minutes and mine was done.
I'm glad it helped you!
OMG! This is SOOO HELPFUL! Thank you so much! I know how to exactly how to cut in a straight line now! Thank you so much!!!!!!!~Peach
Just hope i do it tomorrow in class! Thanks!
That's incredible i never would have thought of that mate brilliant many thanks greatly appreciate the video ❤
Awesome tutorial!
Fantastic, I had this problem but not any longer so easy so quick yet so important. Ta.
Thank you for that now I can line mine up.
I wish I had found this video earlier. I spent more time than I should have making my scroll saw cut level today.
great technique, thank you
Awesome video!!
Awesome. I was looking for a fast easy way to make sure my blade was aligned. Thanks.
Thanks Harold, Glad the the video helped.
+ScrollSawParadise thank you for this tip!
THANKS I AM GOING TO USE THIS TIP !
Just started scrolling great tip thank you
THANKS SO MUCH I THOUGHT MY ARM ON THE SAW WAS BENT OR SOMETHING I WAS WONDRIN WHAT TO DO YOU CLEARD THIS UP FOR ME THANKS A MILION
Thanks! Just the video I needed! One question. Why not take a square, draw line on wood and adjust the table?
Thank you
thanks for the info
Keith Brierley be the
I just finished adjusting my table and did it the hard way this will make it a lot easier in the future. I have one other concern and that is adjusting the blade front to back I guess is how to explain it. The top of the blade is cutting before the bottom of the blade. Any ideas what to do for that? I have a Dewalt 788 and it's been a while since I used it and want to get back to scrolling again. Thanks for your help in advance.
Thank you sir
I suggest taking a 1x3 board with a clean cut on one side and using an accurate square, draw a clean fine line from the straight side. Place a b near the bottom of the line. Place the board with the "b" side against the platform and behind the saw blade. View the blade against the line. If there is any variance you should be able to easily see it. Adjust the platform so the blade is visually matching the perpendicular line. Lock down the platform and you are done. Easy and quick.
This is perfect for bandsaws too.
Hey Dani El, Sorry for the late reply, but you are absolutely correct, this is a very easy tool to use to assure your band saw blade is perpendicular to the table. Just be careful when doing it, band saws can be mean.
Bob
Hi there nice video,
I was wondering if you could help me out further.
I purchased a scroll saw New and the blade is set on a slight angle. I can't adjust the blade on my saw so followed your video and adjusted the table which is now on a slight angle to get a straight cut.
I'm just wondering if it's normal for a blade to be set on a slight angle? Or could it be a factory defect?
Thanks for your help
is it common to have a table that is not level to the ground? i.e. should we worry about levelling the whole saw table or just the blade?
I must say that this is a great question and you are the first one I have ever heard ask it. Making the blade square to the tabletop is what is critical for making square cuts. The saw itself being level is not as important to make square cuts, but it is good practice to make sure your saw is as level as possible to keep it from wobbling while cutting which could be detrimental to all of your cutting. Getting a saw perfectly level in most shops can be a challenge because most floors are not perfectly level, so don't stress about getting you table top level to the floor, just make sure your saw is stable and does not move easily...Bob
Is the squareness of the front of the blade important? On my saw the top part of the blade bites into the wood before the bottom of the blade does. Is there any way to adjust the blade to be square in all directions? Thanks
+Clinton T Shuey Hi Clinton, the most common cause for front to back misalignment is improper blade installation. This video will give you a good idea as to what might be going on ua-cam.com/video/ppZeMKlGVXI/v-deo.html
If you still have problems, some saws can be adjusted to correct front to back, but most can't and you just need to live with it. I don't know about every saw, I do know Excaliburs can be adjusted.
Basically, even with front to back misalignment, if you can make a very tight turn on thin wood and the wood does not chatter back and forth allowing you to make the tight turn, there is nothing to worry about. Just keep on cutting and ignore the misalignment. One more thing, you will almost never find a saw where the front to back is perfectly straight through the entire stroke, they naturally will move in and out a little bit. As long as that movement is not objectionable, there is not fix to be made.
Bob
Cool video. I have only been using pinned Olson blades and cutting 3/4" pine. Ive got a bunch of FD pinless blades coming in the mail. The saw has detents made for the pins to go in. So my procedure has been to put the blade in, with the pins in the detents, tension the blade, then tighten the thumbscrews while pushing the back of the blade against the back of the holder, untensioning, dialing the tension up to where I want it, then camming the tension back down. Hopefully I can get something figured out. When Im cutting it will act like it is dull and then suddenly jump forward ripping thru.
That's Whatsupp!
so should the blade be right in the middle of the table throat?
Hi Sophie, being in the middle of the table throat doesn't have any effect on cutting, so no, it doesn't matter. Blade tension and alignment of the clamps is most important.
ScrollSawParadise okay thanks do much i’m doing woodwork for school
dear sir .. my scroll saw is cutting line like a curve not stright .. even if i change the blade . please advise me how to align the blade not just the table ?
thanks
+tayf baghdady Watch this video, it will help. ua-cam.com/video/8WYw855pI04/v-deo.html
Thanks sir
How do you square a blade front to back?
Hi Lenny, most saws can't adjust front to back because it really isn't an issue to be concerned about. You actually want your blade to have a slight front to back angle, it makes the blade cut a little more aggressively, which is good when cutting wood.
If you have an "Excalibur" style saw, you can adjust the motor to change front to back, but it is too involved to cover here. And again not necessary unless someone has played with it and messed it up...Bob
Also, the best way to make sure your front to back alignment is acceptable is to make sure your blade is properly installed in the bottom and top clamps. Most of the time excessive F to B misalignment is due to either the top or bottom of the blade not pushed to the back of the clamp.
@@Scrollsawforum1 thanks
Couldn't you just use a small level and level the table?
Could you not just use a square to draw a pencil line and use that instead?
Max Manpoints Sure you could, but how do you know that it is accurate? The method in the video is not only very simple to do but is inherently accurate and goof proof.
Indeed, that's what I'd have done!
Okay, I just bought a scroll saw and I have a question: Do I have to be "a scroller?" Holy cow it seems like I've joined a secret society by buying a saw. I bought it because sometimes I need small, freehand-shaped pieces such as table saw push sticks, wooden handles to toolboxes, etc. I was going to get a bandsaw but I figured this is lower priced, more compact, more maneuverable for tight corners and the blades are cheaper, so it seemed to make sense. Now I discover that there's a whole culture... Did I buy the wrong product? Good golly, do I HAVE to make "Home Sweet Home" in bubble letters? Would a bandsaw be better for me?
Welcome "Scoller" congrats on your new saw. You might be taking this a bit too seriously. Obviously you can use whatever tool you would like to make whatever you would like. There are no secret societies, hand shakes or passwords required to enjoy using a scroll saw. The only thing that's required is enjoying making things with your hands. If you feel the need to cut out "Home sweet Home" on your new scroll saw, go for it, or cut it on your band saw , your choice. Once you do start using your scroll saw though, after seeing what a versatile and cool tool it is, don't be surprised if you start thinking about new and creative ways to use it. Enjoying woodworking without having to fill your garages up with bandsaws, tablesaws and other large expensive and dangerous woodworking tools is very appealing to the not so serious woodworker. There are many, many people that make incredibly beautiful items with their scroll saw and some actually make good money at it too. Yes we enjoy making, sharing and talking about our creations with others that share our interest, but that's just part of being a human and a scroller...Bob
@@Scrollsawforum1 I was mostly kidding. What I really mean was: "Did I buy the wrong saw for my needs?" I've used it a bit now, aligned it... It's a cheap WEN model with the easier blade changes. What I've learned so far is it doesn't cut as quickly as I'd like, even at fast speed. I'm used to band saws, and what I like to do is more "engineering" than "art". I'm going to be making mounts, handles, levers... functional parts.
Do there exist blades with very aggressive teeth? I know this would mean a wider kerf and a sloppier cut, maybe even a thicker, deeper blade which may last longer? Can you refer me to such blades if they exist?
what happened to the audio.
Hey James, I'm not sure. It appears the last 60 secs or so went away, not sure why or how to fix it. But at that point it's just me rambling on anyway, the important parts are still working fine. Thanks for letting me know...Bob
A lof of extra work - when a small prtractor will help you get square - or amost 100% - then if you need to fine tune do that
Give me break JUST USE AN ENGINEERS SQUARE.
I don't have one and find it inconvenient to go out and buy it when I can do it right now with a piece of wood.
Not everyone has an engineers square, but everyone has a piece of wood. Be nice