@Vintauri oh yeah for sure i make a point to come set in im wanting to grow my laser biz enough to get out of this truck so everything i can learn is a huge plus
For splitting the wings from the rest Lightburn would work in almost exactly the same way. Use the pen tool to draw a three piece line from one wing surface to another, just as you did in Sketchup (the alter ego of SuperKetchup?). Then switch to the nodes tool, add a node on the wing surfaces where the new line meets it and make those three copies, deleting the nodes for the rest as necessary. Mouse over the centre section of the new line and press 'S' to make it a bezier curve, just as in Sketchup. Use Alt-J with all tools deselected to join several objects together.
Thanks for the tips on the bezier curve in Lightburn. Im so used to designing in CAD and Illustrator that I often resort to those tools before playing with the advanced features of Lightburn. But that's what I love about this community! Sharing and learning!
My first time commenting on a UA-cam video.loved your style of delivering content. I’m about to purchase my first laser and am looking at the Atomstack 20 pro. Also I am a RCer and have been flying for 58 years. Love the planes in your background. Great job
Thanks for checking it out and leaving a comment. Model Aviation is what got me into lasers and cnc machines. I’ve been flying for over 30 years myself. The Atomstack 20w is a good machine and you can get the rail extensions for cutting longer items such as balsa sheets. I have a review on that machine and the 30w version. Both would be great options.
@Vintauri My dad and I flew one of the first RC units. It only pulsed the rudder so you could change direction. So basically a free flight that was a bit more predictable. Range was a major issue and we chased many planes out of the sun roof of a VW bug. Pop is now 95 and last year he built some stick and tissue rubber band WW1 planes. I hope the laser will give me some more creativity with my fine woodworking and turning projects. Keep up the great channel.
Great video, thank you. I started with SketchUp (Google) but in the past year migrated to Fusion 360 and have never looked back. There's a bit of a learning curve, but you already understand 3D space, so the curve won't be as steep for you. I highly suggest taking that jump. It's free, and you'll thank yourself for making the move.
Thanks for the video! I am new to Lasers (and Lightburn) and your video inspired me in a big way. I would be interested in any aviation / RC projects you do in the future.
Dude, I've been watching a ton of these videos. This is a great way to make the most of your cutting area. I would market that as a "project" and send in the way it came out of the laser.😁
Outstanding as a retired pilot and hobbyist woodworker and lasering this is great! When laid out my shop I modeled all of the things in shop with sketch up and Lightburn for the laser no new skills to have to learn.😀🛫
Alternatively, you could create a small dovetail for each joint so the parts push together which could be better if you are selling this sort of thing as kits.
I did my edit using just LightBurn. Once the items are selected using Edit Nodes, hover over the 'line' to be removed and press the keyboard's 'T' key. (I just discovered what the T key does...)
Why not use the "Print and Cut" option in Lightburn? Sorry maybe I missed that discussion. Your process does reduce material waste. I get that. Just wondering.
I'm not sure how Print and Cut would work in this scenario to break up the object into pieces to cut something larger than the working area. If there is a way, I'd love to see it and learn something new!
@@Vintauri Check out this Lightburn video ua-cam.com/video/n__saOKVupA/v-deo.html I've used this several times and it works. He makes several files to make the cuts. Recommend that process.
I have that same laser and never seem to get by without some charring even with the air assist. What settings did you end up using on that wood to get it that clean? Also, how strong will CA glue be over time vs wood glue? Love the project (also a great fan of the Corsair) and excited to try some larger cuts myself. I did just get the extended rails for this machine but I can't use them until I finish my cabinet because my current enclosure is designed for the original machine size. Would also be interested in what fan strength and details you are using because I did not see any smoke build up for you, where as I almost always get a cloud that overwhelms my 195 cfm fan for a bit.
This was done at 400mm/min and 90% power one pass. The type of wood will make a huge difference. I've tried some plywood that charred horribly. Wood glue would be stronger assuming it can soak into the fibers of the wood grain, too much charring and both CA and wood glue will risk failing. I recently upgraded to a 6" AC Infinity fan that is supposed to pull 352 CFM. However I have it choked down to 4" so I'm sure I'm getting less CFM. It does do a great job at pulling the smoke out of the enclosure.
I did a couple planes in 1/4 but had to paint them, you can really see the joints where it's glued, do you have any suggestions on how to hide the joints?
If you can work them into what looks like a panel line for the break that will be the best, otherwise see what you can do to really dial in the kerf and efficient cutting of the edge to leave as clean a line as possible. Maybe some slight sanding on the joint would help as well.
I used a file from Etsy to create this so I don’t feel I can sell it but the link to the base file is in the description of the video. You could then enlarge it and add any breaks you need like I did in the video to recreate this.
If you were to cut normal vinyl on the laser it would off gas Chlorine. So I never recommend doing that. I use a vinyl cutter with a drag knife if I’m cutting vinyl decals.
I ran this one at 250mm/min 95% power with full air and a single pass. I strongly recommend that you run a material cut test to find your own settings for your laser, it will save you material and the headache of guessing on trying what others have used.
I did not use a kerf offset on this one as the simple Arc shape didn't require precise fitting. IF you used more of a jigsaw puzzle connection, you'd want a tighter fit.
Great tutorial. I'm going to have a run at it. I got the P51 fire from the same creator but am stuck at editing the breaks. How do you import the SVG file into sketchup for editing? My version of sketchup is few years old but can only import the png or jpg. I assume you're importing the svg?
I'm using the latest version of Sketchup Pro, which does allow importing some vectors. Can you import a DXF? If so you could open the SVG in Lightburn, export it as a DXF and then open that in Sketchup.
@@daveschierman8457 Awesome! I’ve been using Sketchup from way back when it was developed at google. The options have changed over the years and it’s hard to keep track of what is available between the free and the pro versions. I hope the P51 comes out well for you. I might play with that one and others more as I’ve had requests from friends for some custom work.
These tents are used for many things including 3D printers, lasers and yes grow tents. Why reinvent the wheel when something already made works. I’ve also designed and built my own enclosure but not everyone has the tools, skills or the time to build their own. So I share options that work. This one is great if you want to use an overhead camera in lightburn for material alignment.
I have the Atezr 20w. what were your setting to cut through the 1/4" material? I've done 5mm at 500mm/min at 80% power 2 passes. Just curious on what your settings are. I really have not played much with thicker material. Mostly been doing 1/8" material at 350mm/min at 80% 1 pass. Looks like atezr and the atomstack maybe made by same factory as the laser head and even the air pump look identical.
This was done at 400mm/min and 90% power one pass. I will say the type of material makes a big difference. Some plywoods with a MDF core will not cut very well due to all the glue in the MDF.
@@Vintauri I saw you say that you cut this SandePly at approx 6mm/s @ 90% power… I’ve been using this same plywood and was wondering if you’re getting a lot of charring on the cut edges? My surfaces stay pretty clean with this stuff but the edges seem to have so much soot and char? What air assist were you running for this cut? Great video!
There are some laser safe vinyl materials out there but I’m not sure how they compare in durability to the standard stuff. Cutting regular vinyl with a laser is definitely not something to do. It will corrode your machine and your lungs and it does not take much of the gas to do either.
I just purchased this file down loaded it. After extracting the file to another folder. Opened lightburn and imported the file that was 166KB thinking this might be the file I wanted to cut out the F4U like you did. i did not bother to expanded it like you did, I wanted to test the file first on a 12 X 12 inch Baltic birch 3 mm Ply. it turned out to be a destater. after cutting it out the parts fell out looking nothing like you line drawn file. the propeller tips fell out. the outer wing sections fell out as well as the intake air louvers in the wing route. I am thinking I may have chosen the incorrect file. The file appears to me as if was intended to be engraved and not cut. How many KB's was the file you used? I am not seeing a SVG file extension in file folder. What do you suggest? I am using Lightburn latest ver Longer Ray 5, 10 watt laser with air assist. 😒🛫
The file I received was a zip file that was 911kb in total. It contained a JPG, PNG, SVG and EPS versions. The SVG was 24kb when pulled from the zip file. There were a couple lines that were not closed and needed to be fixed one was on the right wing panel and the other was on the center hub. If you highlight the entire vector in lightburn and then go to the Edit Menu, then use Select Open Shapes, it will quickly highlight any objects that are not closed off. I hope this helps.
Thank you for the reply, it turns out when u zipped the files microcrap took control and relabeled the file in it own format not SVG, ESP, or JPG, PNJ. Some file exertion I never herd of. That is why I was asking file size to identify what file you used. I contacted the seller Cori. And she resent the files and I opened up the esp. file and it worked great I did have to tweak power setting in certain areas such as the oil cooler intakes at the wing root I was using 1/8 Baltic Birch ply 12 X 12. I wanted to do the same as you did two wings diagonal on the ply and the fuselage on another. I am still working working with the tools in lightburn. My copy of sketch up 2017 and I am not sure it can do what you did. Oh Cori is wonderful to work with I am having her build some other airplanes that she has not modeled. She very reasonable with rates too!😁🛫
Love it, this could be a nice clock.
I think so too!
Thats cool i have learned alot watching you and dave over at the shack
Thanks for being a regular on the livestreams as well! I'll try to keep the useful tips and ideas coming!
@Vintauri oh yeah for sure i make a point to come set in im wanting to grow my laser biz enough to get out of this truck so everything i can learn is a huge plus
For splitting the wings from the rest Lightburn would work in almost exactly the same way. Use the pen tool to draw a three piece line from one wing surface to another, just as you did in Sketchup (the alter ego of SuperKetchup?). Then switch to the nodes tool, add a node on the wing surfaces where the new line meets it and make those three copies, deleting the nodes for the rest as necessary. Mouse over the centre section of the new line and press 'S' to make it a bezier curve, just as in Sketchup. Use Alt-J with all tools deselected to join several objects together.
Thanks for the tips on the bezier curve in Lightburn. Im so used to designing in CAD and Illustrator that I often resort to those tools before playing with the advanced features of Lightburn. But that's what I love about this community! Sharing and learning!
I thought about the node tool as well but I have not used it yet. This presents a good opportunity to do so. 😀🛫
Very good video presentation. Instructive, and well described. Well done.
Glad you liked it!
Awesome. I’m going to make vintage car at 36 inch wide. This is what I’ve been looking for. Thank you. Great video. I’m a new subscriber.
I'd also make the prop another cut out so it can pop with a different stain oir painted tips idk
.
That would make it pop a bit more!
My first time commenting on a UA-cam video.loved your style of delivering content.
I’m about to purchase my first laser and am looking at the Atomstack 20 pro.
Also I am a RCer and have been flying for 58 years. Love the planes in your background.
Great job
Thanks for checking it out and leaving a comment. Model Aviation is what got me into lasers and cnc machines. I’ve been flying for over 30 years myself. The Atomstack 20w is a good machine and you can get the rail extensions for cutting longer items such as balsa sheets. I have a review on that machine and the 30w version. Both would be great options.
@Vintauri My dad and I flew one of the first RC units. It only pulsed the rudder so you could change direction. So basically a free flight that was a bit more predictable. Range was a major issue and we chased many planes out of the sun roof of a VW bug.
Pop is now 95 and last year he built some stick and tissue rubber band WW1 planes.
I hope the laser will give me some more creativity with my fine woodworking and turning projects.
Keep up the great channel.
Great video, thank you. I started with SketchUp (Google) but in the past year migrated to Fusion 360 and have never looked back. There's a bit of a learning curve, but you already understand 3D space, so the curve won't be as steep for you. I highly suggest taking that jump. It's free, and you'll thank yourself for making the move.
Thanks for the video! I am new to Lasers (and Lightburn) and your video inspired me in a big way. I would be interested in any aviation / RC projects you do in the future.
There will always be more aviation and RC content on my channel! I'm glad you found this one inspiring!
Such an awesome video sir. Well done
Thank you kindly! I love anything laser and airplane related so this was an extra fun one for me to do.
Dude, I've been watching a ton of these videos. This is a great way to make the most of your cutting area. I would market that as a "project" and send in the way it came out of the laser.😁
Outstanding as a retired pilot and hobbyist woodworker and lasering this is great! When laid out my shop I modeled all of the things in shop with sketch up and Lightburn for the laser no new skills to have to learn.😀🛫
That's a great spot to break the wings...the real Corsair F4-U3 folds it's wings up in the same location.
That the main reason I picked this one for this project. It made complete sense to add the break there. Thanks for checking it out!
That is cool that is a great idea but I was wondering have you ever built from plans an RC airplane using the laser. That's my goal.
In fact I have, that was the original reason I purchased my first Co2 laser.
Alternatively, you could create a small dovetail for each joint so the parts push together which could be better if you are selling this sort of thing as kits.
Very nice, well done!
Thank you very much!
I did my edit using just LightBurn. Once the items are selected using Edit Nodes, hover over the 'line' to be removed and press the keyboard's 'T' key. (I just discovered what the T key does...)
Thanks for sharing the tips. Old habits are hard to break but I’m playing more with all the tools in lightburn to do more design and edit within it.
Awesome!
Brilliant!
Thank you!
Great video ... easy to follow and understand. One question: did you seal the wood before cutting it?
I did not seal it before cutting. I’ll do a light sanding afterwards and then finish as desired.
@@Vintauri Great! Thanks!
Why not use the "Print and Cut" option in Lightburn? Sorry maybe I missed that discussion. Your process does reduce material waste. I get that. Just wondering.
I'm not sure how Print and Cut would work in this scenario to break up the object into pieces to cut something larger than the working area. If there is a way, I'd love to see it and learn something new!
@@Vintauri Check out this Lightburn video ua-cam.com/video/n__saOKVupA/v-deo.html I've used this several times and it works. He makes several files to make the cuts. Recommend that process.
That’s a super helpful method. I makes your laser cutter multiple times bigger.
Great video!
Love your way
I'm smarter now
I'm glad the videos are informative! Thanks for watching!
I have that same laser and never seem to get by without some charring even with the air assist. What settings did you end up using on that wood to get it that clean? Also, how strong will CA glue be over time vs wood glue? Love the project (also a great fan of the Corsair) and excited to try some larger cuts myself. I did just get the extended rails for this machine but I can't use them until I finish my cabinet because my current enclosure is designed for the original machine size. Would also be interested in what fan strength and details you are using because I did not see any smoke build up for you, where as I almost always get a cloud that overwhelms my 195 cfm fan for a bit.
This was done at 400mm/min and 90% power one pass. The type of wood will make a huge difference. I've tried some plywood that charred horribly. Wood glue would be stronger assuming it can soak into the fibers of the wood grain, too much charring and both CA and wood glue will risk failing. I recently upgraded to a 6" AC Infinity fan that is supposed to pull 352 CFM. However I have it choked down to 4" so I'm sure I'm getting less CFM. It does do a great job at pulling the smoke out of the enclosure.
Great job! Would the tile feature work too?
I did a couple planes in 1/4 but had to paint them, you can really see the joints where it's glued, do you have any suggestions on how to hide the joints?
If you can work them into what looks like a panel line for the break that will be the best, otherwise see what you can do to really dial in the kerf and efficient cutting of the edge to leave as clean a line as possible. Maybe some slight sanding on the joint would help as well.
Is there any way that I could buy this file from you. My husband is an aviation enthusiasts I would love to make this fir his man cave
I used a file from Etsy to create this so I don’t feel I can sell it but the link to the base file is in the description of the video. You could then enlarge it and add any breaks you need like I did in the video to recreate this.
Does the vinyl gas off Chlorine gas?
If you were to cut normal vinyl on the laser it would off gas Chlorine. So I never recommend doing that. I use a vinyl cutter with a drag knife if I’m cutting vinyl decals.
what were ur settings for the 1/4 wood? Speed/power/passes?
Thanks
I ran this one at 250mm/min 95% power with full air and a single pass. I strongly recommend that you run a material cut test to find your own settings for your laser, it will save you material and the headache of guessing on trying what others have used.
@@Vintauri thnx
hmm. I have to use 6 passes 60 mm/min @100% with my atomstack x20
Did you use a kerf?
I did not use a kerf offset on this one as the simple Arc shape didn't require precise fitting. IF you used more of a jigsaw puzzle connection, you'd want a tighter fit.
Great tutorial. I'm going to have a run at it. I got the P51 fire from the same creator but am stuck at editing the breaks. How do you import the SVG file into sketchup for editing? My version of sketchup is few years old but can only import the png or jpg. I assume you're importing the svg?
I'm using the latest version of Sketchup Pro, which does allow importing some vectors. Can you import a DXF? If so you could open the SVG in Lightburn, export it as a DXF and then open that in Sketchup.
@@Vintauri That did the trick. Thanks much.
@@daveschierman8457 Awesome! I’ve been using Sketchup from way back when it was developed at google. The options have changed over the years and it’s hard to keep track of what is available between the free and the pro versions. I hope the P51 comes out well for you. I might play with that one and others more as I’ve had requests from friends for some custom work.
Would you please send me the link to that corsair. I want to make me one thanks
You can find the files on etsy here: www.etsy.com/listing/1332001557/f4u-corsair-vintage-war-plane-airplane
A grow tent for your "machine" ventilation...shell company much there Smokey?
These tents are used for many things including 3D printers, lasers and yes grow tents. Why reinvent the wheel when something already made works. I’ve also designed and built my own enclosure but not everyone has the tools, skills or the time to build their own. So I share options that work. This one is great if you want to use an overhead camera in lightburn for material alignment.
@@Vintauri You're a good sport! Enjoyed the video. I recognized it from inline fan research to make air purifiers with dust collector style filters.
Lightburn can do better cut shape and print and cut command
That’s an option as well but some of the newer lasers are more enclosed and do not have a passthrough option. Always multiple ways to do something.
I have the Atezr 20w. what were your setting to cut through the 1/4" material? I've done 5mm at 500mm/min at 80% power 2 passes. Just curious on what your settings are. I really have not played much with thicker material. Mostly been doing 1/8" material at 350mm/min at 80% 1 pass. Looks like atezr and the atomstack maybe made by same factory as the laser head and even the air pump look identical.
This was done at 400mm/min and 90% power one pass. I will say the type of material makes a big difference. Some plywoods with a MDF core will not cut very well due to all the glue in the MDF.
@@Vintauri I saw you say that you cut this SandePly at approx 6mm/s @ 90% power… I’ve been using this same plywood and was wondering if you’re getting a lot of charring on the cut edges? My surfaces stay pretty clean with this stuff but the edges seem to have so much soot and char? What air assist were you running for this cut? Great video!
Sorry, I know this is wood, I intended to ask about how safe it is to use a diode laser cutter on Vinly products.
There are some laser safe vinyl materials out there but I’m not sure how they compare in durability to the standard stuff. Cutting regular vinyl with a laser is definitely not something to do. It will corrode your machine and your lungs and it does not take much of the gas to do either.
I just purchased this file down loaded it. After extracting the file to another folder. Opened lightburn and imported the file that was 166KB thinking this might be the file I wanted to cut out the F4U like you did. i did not bother to expanded it like you did, I wanted to test the file first on a 12 X 12 inch Baltic birch 3 mm Ply. it turned out to be a destater. after cutting it out the parts fell out looking nothing like you line drawn file. the propeller tips fell out. the outer wing sections fell out as well as the intake air louvers in the wing route. I am thinking I may have chosen the incorrect file.
The file appears to me as if was intended to be engraved and not cut.
How many KB's was the file you used? I am not seeing a SVG file extension in file folder.
What do you suggest?
I am using Lightburn latest ver Longer Ray 5, 10 watt laser with air assist.
😒🛫
The file I received was a zip file that was 911kb in total. It contained a JPG, PNG, SVG and EPS versions. The SVG was 24kb when pulled from the zip file. There were a couple lines that were not closed and needed to be fixed one was on the right wing panel and the other was on the center hub. If you highlight the entire vector in lightburn and then go to the Edit Menu, then use Select Open Shapes, it will quickly highlight any objects that are not closed off. I hope this helps.
Thank you for the reply, it turns out when u zipped the files microcrap took control and relabeled the file in it own format not SVG, ESP, or JPG, PNJ. Some file exertion I never herd of. That is why I was asking file size to identify what file you used. I contacted the seller Cori. And she resent the files and I opened up the esp. file and it worked great I did have to tweak power setting in certain areas such as the oil cooler intakes at the wing root I was using 1/8 Baltic Birch ply 12 X 12. I wanted to do the same as you did two wings diagonal on the ply and the fuselage on another. I am still working working with the tools in lightburn. My copy of sketch up 2017 and I am not sure it can do what you did.
Oh Cori is wonderful to work with I am having her build some other airplanes that she has not modeled. She very reasonable with rates too!😁🛫