Mercedes R129 500sl engine mounts..m119 v8,w124,w140 similar
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- How to replace the front left and right engine mounts on a Mercedes with the m119 v8...done on a 1991 500sl...the w124, and w140 V*s will be fairly similar..later models with the m113 v8 are also similar,but require removal of the A/C compressor and engine driven viscous fan follow me on twitter / fupabox
Hard to photograph this. We still appreciate your documenting this. THANKS!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video, I have the m113 1998, and the car was clunking and vibrating at take off. I ended up changing the engine mounts like yours, they were toast as well. By the way, you don't need to remove the a/c, on the driver's side, just slips under behind the a/c and squeeze it past the hose. I also changed the transmission mount, what a difference, it's like the car has a new lease of life. So much smoother and more fun to drive.
I know..you get used to the bad mounts and the new ones feel like magic has been performed :)
1998 was the introduction of the M113 engine in the 500SL. Thanx for the video! Saved me $800!
:)
Thank you for taking the time to make an awesome video.
I needed to lift the engine and change the air pump and your video helped me tremendously with locating the engine mounts.
Glad it helped
18:08 dude thats the spirit! You still have a functioning arm AND new engine mounts. Cheers!!
Great videon,no stupid music I like the real down to earth explanation of the things that need to be done to do the job safely ,,I have a 94 s500 ,I am going to replace the mounts on ,your video will really help ,waiting for your next video ,on changing transmission mount ,,no you have a video on replacing water pump on s500 with a m119 engine ,,from all I have looked at ,,I have to remove the crank pulley ,is that really needed ,,,Help ,,,thank you ,,,
Thanks so much for the education. This job went so smooth due to your help on my 99 SL500. Dealer quote for this job $1400 parts/labor. I was able to put the OE Lemsford parts in for $200 and the 1.5hrs of my time.
$1400 yeouch...I think some dirty hands and 90 minutes are well worth the $1200 savings..excellent :)
Southern California prices 😲. Dealer Parts quoted $336 per mount! Got mine for $90 per.
wow.. that's higher than Canadian prices... If I recall the dealer asked for around $200 per mount , but I got them for about what you paid
With no light under there most of what I could see was a big hairy arm so just skipped it. Anyway, I'm glad you got it and I know it's not easy to video this stuff while doing the work.
Apologies ..it is hard to get light in there sometimes .
Thanks heap bro :) I know these things are very hard to make a video of...
You are a cool guy 👌lets have beer 🍺
Hi! Very informative video, thank you! Can you please explain why you recommend not to disconnect the positive battery terminal? I disconnected both terminals on my 500sl as I do a lot of work around the engine and I am wondering if that will be an issue?
This is an excellent video, thank you so much for taking the time to put this together! That looks like one VERY nice 500SL! I know this video is a few years old - but would you happen to know if the process would be the same for the M104 engine? I have a 1994 SL320 inline six cylinder.... can't seem to find anything online for that engine..... I would imagine they are fairly similar but just thought I'd ask. Thanks again!
should be fairly similar . You may have more room to work with the narrower inline 6
Hey fupabox! Long time and today I began motor mounts and idler bushings. Got the olds out and the new passenger placed but can’t get the new drivers in. Any suggestion on getting more clearance? Can I favor the drivers side somehow and would a second jack under where the transmission bolts up be out of the question? Any pointers much appreciated! Sure miss your r129 videos!
I had a hell of a time with the driver side on mine. Just removed the driver side exhaust pipe to be able to even break that top bolt loose because it was just not happening lol.
Reminds me of doing mounts on my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2 V-8, not comparing the two vehicles but when things get old rubber cracks and you wonder why they didn't design things a different way? At least I wondered why they didn't use different fasteners upon design and assembly to make it easier to get to the bolts and mounts
Do both of these mounts come out the back? I did this on a W124 (300E) and this looks like a job (PITA?) compared with the 300E and the I6. On the right (passenger) side the mount comes out by moving the steering linkage? The left (driver's) side by removing a ground strap?
BTW in studying up for this job I have learned that there is a specialty wrench - 17mm box on one side 3/8" connection for a ratchet extension on the other - < $20 - which makes removing that upper 17mm bolt (from the top) a lot easier.
Also please note the M113 V8 came with the 1999 R129.
Thanks
Great video 👌
Thanks for all the excellent videos. I have done the engine mounts on my '91 car and found it a similarly awkward job (although not as tough as the lower ball joints). I am struggling with the 19mm bolt on the transmission mount. I think you said you were going to put a video up on this. Can't see it as yet. Any tips on getting that top bolt undone gratefully received.
I haven't done it yet...not much time in the last few weeks...I took a quick look at it while I was doing the engine mounts and the top tranny mount bolt looked as if the driveshaft flex disc would need removing...or grinding a cheap 19mm closed end wrench until it is thin enough to fit over/around the bolt
I think the flex disc is ok. The problem on mine is the narrow aperture of the square bracket/washer thing on top. I can't get my ratchet or rather spanner (wrench) on there. I have managed to get a 19mm ring spanner on there but it's torqued down really tight and it was difficult to get enough leverage on there. When I finally did I bent the (cheap) spanner. I have ordered another one so hopefully will have more luck!
Ed Ashby hopefully mine isn't as tight or the ground down wrench won't be worth trying..the dealerships must have a very thin wrench they use for the top bolt..as you say there is no clearance on the sides of the bolt
Fupabox, how are your mounts holding up? It looks like you replaced them 7 years ago. Do you still have the 129? Do you drive it often?
sold the r129 a few years back ( regret )
What’s the best brand to get these engine mounts? Febi, Lemford?
About to take this on and your video is a great help as always. Q1: Do you loctite any of these bolts? Q2: Also, I have read in forums that you need to raise/lower the engine and push it around to get each of the bolts to line up. To improve mobility can you leave the first side loose and do the second - then tighten all around?
you can loctite them..blue loctite. Not loctited from factory , but it's never a bad idea. You do need to jack the whole engine up and do both sides at the same time .. it's tight so 1 side jacking doesn't give much room
What brand of engine mount did you use? I have a 98 sl 500 and changed the mounts first with Febi Bilstien mounts which in my opinion are junk ( they were good for about six months) then I replaced them with Lemforder mounts which are still on the car five years later. They're still good.
I'm fairly certain they were lemforder
Now lemforder also made in china
@@fupabox After about nine years my mounts need to be replaced. I’ve been looking for a set of Lemforder mounts but they are no longer available for the R129. Any suggestions?
PFT i like that lol!
@@nickmlad4677 I ended up installing a are of Rein mounts about three months ago September 2021. Good so far but haven’t driven much. I’ll keep the post updated.
respect! and now drive like you stole it :P old mercedes benz cars are still the best !
True that!
Great detail in this video, thanks. A sort of related question. In this video it looks like you have a jack stand positioned under the lwer control arm. For my w209 CLK, can you explain or some day do a video of where it is safe to place jack stands? I know you can use the car's jacking points, but if I'm using a jacking point for the jack, where in the same area can I position the jack stand? Thanks for all the info you share.
any point of the lower control arms or even better,where they mount to the subframe, can be used to safely hold the car with jackstands
Thanks!
Maybe I have my orientation reversed, but if new mounts are installed, doesn't that lift the engine, bringing the fan blades closer to the fan shroud? Did you also have to raise/readjust the height of the fan shroud now that the engine is sitting up higher? Thanks.
the fan shroud is at the level of new mounts .. when the mounts get old the fan gets lower compared to the shroud. New mounts just bring it back to proper height. The shroud shouldn't need to be moved , just removed during installation of the mounts
Thanks. My front motor mounts are worn a bit, but not a nub. Funny how the fan blades are closer to the upper part of the shroud than the bottom part of the shroud.
For a 91 500sl that thing is bueno!!
I know its been a few years but did you use a swivel head ratchet for the right side motor mount. When going in from the top?
I'm not 100% sure ... but my longest ratchets (handles ) are all swivel.. so it\s likely it was a swivel
Cool thanks!
Hello, i have a '90 w124 300e24 (M104). I get vibrations through the car at idle in Drive, especially when the engine is cold. Also, when i drive on the highway i get a droning sound that gets louder the faster i drive (even when i put it in N while driving).
Does this sound like a typical engine mounts/transmission mount problem, or should i look elsewhere? My 4 speed automatic shifts very smoothly, but when i put i change gears (i.e. from P to D) it does give a very noticeable "jolt". I don't know if this is normal, as i have no reference; my other merc is a manual.
engine and transmission mounts are very likely the problem..possibly the driveshaft support bearing as well
Hey fupabox, the vibrations in different gears and clunking is gone now that i've replaced the mounts! However, the droning noise at high speed is still there.. Als long as i'm accelerating quite hard, it's not that bad, but when i release the gas pedal it gets louder. So what else could it be? Wheel bearings? The faster i drive, the louder it gets. Even when i put it in neutral at high speeds. Tires are new, wheels are aligned...
it could be rear subframe mounts , driveshaft support bearing (usually that is noticed more on acceleration) or the rubber guibo bushings (the big round rubber pucks at either end of the driveshaft) Also look for broken or loose exhaust mounts.. if the exhaust touches the frame while decelerating when the torqur twists the engine slightly, that will make a pretty loud droning. The rear differential fluid could need changing as well ..
Let me ask you, how do you approach jacking these cars front up and where do you place the axle stands? Thank-you
you can buy jacking pads for the chassis rails.. I use the factory jacking point and a Mercedes tire changing jack since it's too low to get my floor jack under...the axle stands are under the lower control arm mounts
***** Thank-you :)
Can you please do a video where you do the brakes on this car? I have a 300ce with similar 4 piston caliper, and I cant get the caliper of, there is no space for me to use the breaker bar.
I actually have done a video for the brakes last year ua-cam.com/video/lJ8T1VqeagI/v-deo.html
where did you get the lemforders ? Im from Canada too but don't know where to get lemforder
rockauto.com
With the old mounts did you notice a bit of vibration/grinding feel in the gas pedal when starting off from a stop?
a bit of vibration, and yes mostly from a dead stop .
***** lol .... looks like my to-do list just received a new member :) .... Thanks for the confirmation
kedocom check for fluid leaks as well...thought I had a small leak in the steering box ,but wasn't losing any fluid...it was the oil in the mount leaking onto the steering box
*****
couldn't find any fluid leaks and the vibration I felt the other day after an hour in 102f freeway driving has not returned .... Although when it's in drive with the brake applied and rev'd to 1500rpm the drivers side of the engine does lift an inch and a half or so .... the clearances look good tho, over an inch between engine and cross-member and about an inch and a half between passenger exhaust manifold and heat shield and a little less than that on the drivers side ....
kedocom did you try the same brake/rev test in reverse as well ? an inch between engine and crossmember is ok , but getting close to worn out...you can prob. get away with not doing them for a bit
It’s been about nine years since I last replaced the motor mounts on my R129 with a set of Lemforders. The mounts are no longer available for the R129 with the M119 engine. Has anyone installed the Rein mounts? What was your experience with them? Any suggestions?
That's what I'm curious about too.. The forums warn us about the URO Parts (UROut of your mind if you buy those) - apparently they're some cheap china fabrication that barely lasts, and quality control is poor. Of course I can't speak from personal experience, but I'd rather opt in for the Rein or Febi variant. Have you had yours replaced yet?
@@ruslankontsimal7072 I ordered a set of Contitech mounts from Parts Geek. They sent me a set of Rein mounts instead. Box said made in China I have sent them back and am waiting for the Contitech set. Hopefully they’re not made in China. They should arrive this week. I’ll keep you posted.
@@maxxsteele11 That's actually the ones I ordered (Rein); they came in today. I'm willing to give them a shot, got them from Rock Auto. I did see the ContiTech ones you're talking about. High hopes, to the both of us, and anyone else going down this road.
@@ruslankontsimal7072 I received my package from parts geek today and once again they sent me a set Rein mounts. I have sent them back. I may give them a try if I can’t get the Contis. I’m suspicious of Parts made in China though. I did instal a set of Febi Bilstien mounts before installing the Lemforders. The Febi mounts lasted two months before failing. Good luck with the Rein set. I’m waiting for an answer from Parts Geek as to the availability of the Contitechs.
@@maxxsteele11 I understand, I am a bit concerned too, but at this point, I'd rather have new China-made vs original failed ones. Who knows? Maybe these will hold up just fine, besides, I'm sure they come with some sort of warranty.
Gloves???????!!!!!!!!
Is it possible to fit the r129 engine in an e type jag?
ivy Strauss anything is possible...there is enough room
engine mounts
Hi how do you think these engine mounts are still ok. link with my sl ua-cam.com/video/jGwxeIPmqCY/v-deo.html