@@carbide3d LOL I can't decide which one I like better... oh wait, that's easy, here we get to see and hear you, and also hear, you don't have to share the airtime. So HERE is the vote for me! keep up the great work!
Love it BUT, in general, I'd love to bit to start surfacing from the outside corner in, not the center (just did my first job, Shapeoko 5 newbie) and it cut in the same pattern as your example. Worried about plunging w/o the ramp function (i have create, not create pro at the moment). Any advise (as opposed to doing the poly line trick)? Assuming it's a function hiding somewhere in Create?
Hey Brett, Welcome to Shapeoko 5; great things are ahead. The polyline trick is just about to be obsolete. We've recently added a Facing Toolpath to Carbide Create. It's currently in the Beta Version of Carbide Create Pro. If you have Pro, you can download the Beta here: carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/beta
@@carbide3d Awesome news (although I'm brand new and now have to google facing tool & hope it's not all X rated results lol)... nailed the poly trick btw, trying it tomorrow on my first inlay attempt--fingers crossed! PS, thx for the reply😎
when setting x,y and z on a piece of stock like this thats all wonky, correct me if im wrong but you cant use the bit setter or the bitzero and have to do it manually correct?
You can always use bitsetter. BitZero is not as handy given that you want to exceed the size of your stock in X and Y. Additionally, the low point of your stock may not be on a corner nor large enough to set your BitZero into to get an accurate reading. Manual Z setting is the best plan.
I use this process for flattening end-grain cutting boards after gluing. Presumably not as efficient as drum sanding, but it doesn't require such efficient dust collection either.
I used this procedure to reduce the thickness of a piece of MDF for a cabinet door I was making with inlays. I took about 1/4 of an inch on one side, did the recess of the inlay design and left it on my CNC overnight. The next morning, when I took it out, the piece of MDF was so warped, it looked like banana. The only explanation I could come up with is that the MDF had absorbed a lot of moisture from a hot and humid South Florida garage, while the backside was laying flat on the CNC bed and had the factory coating. Moisture came in from one side and not the other. I have flattened many boards for signs using this procedure. Works well.
@@hebe1792 whenever I do a major material removal flattening or 3D relief, I always leave clamped either to CNC or solid panel overnight to let it climatize and set its position/shape
I did a 3 foot diameter sign made from 4” thick sapele. It was a 2 sided carve with the same thing on both sides. 12 hours to carve, so we let it go overnight. When I came back in the morning, the whole piece bowed 1/4” on both sides. I pressed ahead - because it was a $600 piece of wood - and after carving the other side, it laid flat again. No matter the thickness, wood will bend the way wood wants to bend.
A 1/2” shank does not fit in the 65mm spindle. That spindle has a 1/4” limit. If you want to run 1/2” tooling you’ll need the 80mm water cooler spindle.
Kevin I was super surprised to watch the Girls USA volleyball Olympic coverage and hear your voice. Who knew? AWESOME!
You learn a secret today! It’s the rare overlap of CNC and VB
@@carbide3d LOL I can't decide which one I like better... oh wait, that's easy, here we get to see and hear you, and also hear, you don't have to share the airtime. So HERE is the vote for me! keep up the great work!
would you mind sharing where the 1/2" bit came from? thanks for this great video
Purchased at a local cabinet shop.
Love it BUT, in general, I'd love to bit to start surfacing from the outside corner in, not the center (just did my first job, Shapeoko 5 newbie) and it cut in the same pattern as your example. Worried about plunging w/o the ramp function (i have create, not create pro at the moment). Any advise (as opposed to doing the poly line trick)? Assuming it's a function hiding somewhere in Create?
Hey Brett,
Welcome to Shapeoko 5; great things are ahead. The polyline trick is just about to be obsolete. We've recently added a Facing Toolpath to Carbide Create. It's currently in the Beta Version of Carbide Create Pro. If you have Pro, you can download the Beta here: carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/beta
@@carbide3d Awesome news (although I'm brand new and now have to google facing tool & hope it's not all X rated results lol)... nailed the poly trick btw, trying it tomorrow on my first inlay attempt--fingers crossed! PS, thx for the reply😎
when setting x,y and z on a piece of stock like this thats all wonky, correct me if im wrong but you cant use the bit setter or the bitzero and have to do it manually correct?
You can always use bitsetter. BitZero is not as handy given that you want to exceed the size of your stock in X and Y. Additionally, the low point of your stock may not be on a corner nor large enough to set your BitZero into to get an accurate reading. Manual Z setting is the best plan.
I use this process for flattening end-grain cutting boards after gluing. Presumably not as efficient as drum sanding, but it doesn't require such efficient dust collection either.
It also doesn't require a drum sander!
What clamps are you using?
Our Crush it Essentials: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/workholding/products/crush-it-essential-clamp
And the Crush it Pro clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/workholding/products/crush-it-pro
I used this procedure to reduce the thickness of a piece of MDF for a cabinet door I was making with inlays. I took about 1/4 of an inch on one side, did the recess of the inlay design and left it on my CNC overnight. The next morning, when I took it out, the piece of MDF was so warped, it looked like banana. The only explanation I could come up with is that the MDF had absorbed a lot of moisture from a hot and humid South Florida garage, while the backside was laying flat on the CNC bed and had the factory coating. Moisture came in from one side and not the other. I have flattened many boards for signs using this procedure. Works well.
@@hebe1792 whenever I do a major material removal flattening or 3D relief, I always leave clamped either to CNC or solid panel overnight to let it climatize and set its position/shape
I did a 3 foot diameter sign made from 4” thick sapele. It was a 2 sided carve with the same thing on both sides. 12 hours to carve, so we let it go overnight. When I came back in the morning, the whole piece bowed 1/4” on both sides. I pressed ahead - because it was a $600 piece of wood - and after carving the other side, it laid flat again. No matter the thickness, wood will bend the way wood wants to bend.
Can you use a traditional 2in surfacing bit?
It depends on the shank size and the power of your spindle.
@@carbide3d How about with the 65mm VFD spindle and 1/2" shank?
A 1/2” shank does not fit in the 65mm spindle. That spindle has a 1/4” limit.
If you want to run 1/2” tooling you’ll need the 80mm water cooler spindle.
A raster area cleararance would be much better for the McFly Cutter then you can run off the side edges so there is no slow down corner burning
Agreed
Can also just use tape CA glue and shims
100%.
Very cool!
sweet i didnt realize you can enter mm when in imperial
It’s a super handy small trick.
Tramming looks off too !!
Well John, we do take a significant number of parts on and off of our machine. Consequently, the amount of time it spends “trammed” is very small.
So you don’t even need a planer or a jointer if you own this thing, do ya. 😅😂
You can certainly choose not to use it! We opted to use the CNC over the planer on our next build.
First!
😂