I have the model before yours--(also cast)--and two aluminium models from the '70's. All are in states of disrepair, and all need 'resto's done on them. I retire in June, so i'll get cracking on them then, no time at all at the minute! I had no doubts about you torqueing up what needed to be torqued, as i've seen you do many small engine rebuilds, but would all of those Suffolk punches have near enough the same torque settings!?! Good content and brilliant filming, as always!! Regards from Mikky in Bonny Scotland, UK. (On his wifes computer...shhh!!)
fantastic video i just picked one up for free and has no spark not sure what to look out for as never done this before ,also what paint did you use please many thanks
Nice one! I used powder-coating on this project, not sure what the colors are called but I think it was signal red or flame red and John Deere green or something similar.
Good morning Tom. From South Africa. Where would I be able to find replacement parts for my Suffolk. Exactly the same as yours. I only have a Robin EY 13 on mine
Dear Tom. I need to replace the clutch on mine. The part number is L.5318. I did find a manual with the part number L.5139. Would you be able to tell me what is the exact model of my Dual Drive Suffolk Super Punch?
How many years of disassembling/reassembling has it taken to learn all of the ins and outs of small engines. Reason I ask is I am starting down that road.
It took about 2 months of intensely engine disassembly and reassembly. After that its a second nature. Get yourself one Briggs and Stratton flathead, and one Honda GX160 (secondhand) and TOTALLY strip it, reassemble it a few times, when you are comfy to reassemble without looking at UA-cam guides, you will be good to go. When you know those 2 engines you can work on almost any other small engine out there.
Yes it was printed on the wrong kind of plastic/paper. I had to go with it since i got it one day before finishing the video and it takes 3 to 4 workdays to print. I kind of like it like that to be honest.
I enjoy your videos and I enjoy watching them. There's a lot of know - it - all people out there that thinks it's their job to take the fun out of someone's life by telling you what you should be doing. Don't worry about them just enjoy what your doing and we will enjoy watching you. Great job.🤠👍
I found one the garden of the house we moved into, it had clearly been outside for a number of years with the grass box turned over the engine (Qualcast 35s) - I put it in the shed and 30 years later I have started to restore it to working condition, it took about 5 hours of patient work to get the carburetor to a reasonable condition, luckily the electrics provide a strong spark and the compression is good. The engine runs (really rough though), and all of the mechanics and controls are firmly rusted solid! Videos like these gave me the confidence to start!
I serviced these and other kinds of mowers for years. I would make two suggestions. (1) Take the plug out before you do anything - and keep the HT lead way from the plug hole. (2) When you tighten nuts or bolts down on anything tighten them to less than finger tight first, make sure the part has settled properly (especially if it is on a seal or gasket) and gradually tighten them to full tightness. Alignment and flatness is not always what it should be and, if fully tightened down, the first nut may fix the component in a less than optimal position. Tighten gradually in diagonals shaking the part as you do so. Great video incidentally. The idea with the lugs on the oil stick plug was that if you only tighten them by hand if you ever have to use a bar to loosen it it should not be so tight as to be damaged by this operation. There was a culture of overtightening threads among mechanics and designers sometimes used devices like this to prevent this happening - especially on soft metal and plastic.
The great thing about pulling something apart and rebuilding is good lighting and cameras
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
Morning!
역시맥가이버 손입니다요👍👍👍👍👍 굿
Baie mooi restorasie werk AJ.. Beste vir die jaar 2023 alle voorspoed
Baie dankie Tom! Mag die jaar net so great wees vir jou!
Good morning. I bought the same machine for restoration purposes. Where would I be able to find replacement parts
I have the professional version of this (10 blade one) had low compression fitted new piston ring set sorted that. Just needs carb sorting still
I’m curious to see what your solution was to damage crankshaft threads?
I sent it to a local engineering shop to weld it up an machine new threads
Great video - I just got a MK2 mower to me as a gift, what a lovely machine. Question: What torque did you use on the head bolts? Thank you!
I have the model before yours--(also cast)--and two aluminium models from the '70's. All are in states of disrepair, and all need 'resto's done on them.
I retire in June, so i'll get cracking on them then, no time at all at the minute!
I had no doubts about you torqueing up what needed to be torqued, as i've seen you do many small engine rebuilds, but would all of those Suffolk punches have near enough the same torque settings!?! Good content and brilliant filming, as always!! Regards from Mikky in Bonny Scotland, UK. (On his wifes computer...shhh!!)
fantastic video i just picked one up for free and has no spark not sure what to look out for as never done this before ,also what paint did you use please many thanks
Nice one! I used powder-coating on this project, not sure what the colors are called but I think it was signal red or flame red and John Deere green or something similar.
What do you use as engine lubricant when rebuilding the engine?
I use normal engine oil.
@@AJRestoration thank you!!
Good morning Tom. From South Africa. Where would I be able to find replacement parts for my Suffolk. Exactly the same as yours. I only have a Robin EY 13 on mine
I might have a spare engine laying around, Ill have a look for you.
Dear Tom. I need to replace the clutch on mine. The part number is L.5318. I did find a manual with the part number L.5139. Would you be able to tell me what is the exact model of my Dual Drive Suffolk Super Punch?
I have never realized the camshafts are hollow. Is that just this type of engine or are all of them hollow?
Not all camshafts are hollow, some Kohler and Suffolk motors have hollow cams. At least the ones I have encountered.
Oil looks ok just really dirty unless there are metal shavings, correct?
Was really dirty, no shavings.
What method do you use to keep the order of parts and how they go back on? 1:47:58
👍👍👍👍
How many years of disassembling/reassembling has it taken to learn all of the ins and outs of small engines. Reason I ask is I am starting down that road.
It took about 2 months of intensely engine disassembly and reassembly. After that its a second nature. Get yourself one Briggs and Stratton flathead, and one Honda GX160 (secondhand) and TOTALLY strip it, reassemble it a few times, when you are comfy to reassemble without looking at UA-cam guides, you will be good to go. When you know those 2 engines you can work on almost any other small engine out there.
@@AJRestoration thank you
Amazing restoration, more entertaining and educational than any movie or TV show to me.
damn skippy! And relaxing to boot.
It's better to use what's already there and repair it then getting new things which don't last that long
Disconnect Spark plug first. It’s a rule
Not a chance of the motor starting by accident I can promise you that :-)
Yeah, maybe I should have read the text in the middle, lmao
What happened to the decal? Way too dark.
Yes it was printed on the wrong kind of plastic/paper. I had to go with it since i got it one day before finishing the video and it takes 3 to 4 workdays to print. I kind of like it like that to be honest.
Watched James May reassembling one of these last night! Good job!
Id like to see it actually.
👍👍👍😎😎😎as always you killed it.kudos
Thank you Tom!
Does he not have imperial set of spanner’s ?
Nope, I actually don't. Its expensive here in my country, and kinda hard to find. So no, I dont hahaha
Awesome job, I recently restored a 16 inch Suffolk punch myself, looks amazing!
Lovely job, almost too nice to use now it's in showroom condition!.
Glad you like it!
Great rebuild I enjoyed that.
Safety first... 🤔Always first remove the spark plug. Now chance that it will start by accident😉😭. Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
Not a chance of the motor starting by accident I can promise you that :-)
I enjoy your videos and I enjoy watching them. There's a lot of know - it - all people out there that thinks it's their job to take the fun out of someone's life by telling you what you should be doing. Don't worry about them just enjoy what your doing and we will enjoy watching you. Great job.🤠👍
Thank you buddy! I appreciate the great comment!
Incredible rebuild
Nice, clean working machine, everything needed. Best cutting machine too. Great job!
Thank you!
Lovely job, enjoyed it very much just picked one up, need to get it going before going full restoration!
Go for it! I hope my video helps you on your journey. Remember to take your time and enjoy it.
If I get it anywhere near your standard Ill be pleased!! Kudos!!!!
Good morning from South Africa
Ons gan nou braai.
When cleaning oil and grime off the parts is that plain old petrol?…is it because it’s non corrosive against delicate wires and metals?
First off, beautiful job. But did you torque the big end bolts off camera?
#beautiful
Nice work man!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
So good ii boss 👍👍😊😍
Many many thanks
where can you get the parts?
You dont haha, maybe ebay.
I found one the garden of the house we moved into, it had clearly been outside for a number of years with the grass box turned over the engine (Qualcast 35s) - I put it in the shed and 30 years later I have started to restore it to working condition, it took about 5 hours of patient work to get the carburetor to a reasonable condition, luckily the electrics provide a strong spark and the compression is good. The engine runs (really rough though), and all of the mechanics and controls are firmly rusted solid! Videos like these gave me the confidence to start!
That's great! You'll have it up and running soon I'm sure!
I forgot that I had seen all of the prior videos, so I made liberal use of the fast forward.
Yes, some might have seen the series in episodes, some requested that I upload the series in one episode, so I did. :-)
I serviced these and other kinds of mowers for years. I would make two suggestions. (1) Take the plug out before you do anything - and keep the HT lead way from the plug hole. (2) When you tighten nuts or bolts down on anything tighten them to less than finger tight first, make sure the part has settled properly (especially if it is on a seal or gasket) and gradually tighten them to full tightness. Alignment and flatness is not always what it should be and, if fully tightened down, the first nut may fix the component in a less than optimal position. Tighten gradually in diagonals shaking the part as you do so. Great video incidentally. The idea with the lugs on the oil stick plug was that if you only tighten them by hand if you ever have to use a bar to loosen it it should not be so tight as to be damaged by this operation. There was a culture of overtightening threads among mechanics and designers sometimes used devices like this to prevent this happening - especially on soft metal and plastic.