Very good and informative video. I also put my bearings in the freezer ( still in packaging to avoid condensation ) as it seems to increase the fitting clearance further
A fine video. The Triumph-3 is a strange engine, in that it was based on one and a half Triumph twin motors. When you strip one down, make sure you've got plenty of boxes to put the numerous castings into. Seems a dog's breakfast, but works very well in practice.
I don't know what sealant you are using, but I found that (bite my tongue), grey Yamabond used sparingly will never leak. I used it on Bonnevilles, Triumph Cubs, BSAs of all kinds, including Rocket 3s, and Tridents. Everywhere I went people told me I had no oil in my bikes because I wasn't marking my territory. Now I haven't watched all the videos, but if you remove the expensive and inefficient oil filter and use an external add on filter, you get better filtration and that filter never plugs up. I like the small filter used by Mitsubishi and some other cars and that a person can find remote brackets that are generally found on equipment such as welders and air compressors. My profession was heavy equipment mechanic so I learned to use what was available and those applications are ALWAYS cheaper than the same item purchased at your bike shop.The brackets & filters have the same mount as the Ford automotive filter, but the one used in Japanese cars is smaller and can be made less obtrusive. A Boyer Bransden electronic ignition makes everything work better and take the carb assy to some shop that can bore the carbs and put stainless sleeves over the slides. When doing this don't forget to drill the manifold and put balance tubes between. Another performance trick is to find someone that can make a 3 into 1 exhaust and use a tuneable Supertrapp muffler on a dyno for max power.
Hi , do the t160s have any gearbox Weak points that should be looked at ? If motor work is in its future . My 5 speed makes zero noises shifts well and clutch let's me select neutral easy , Cheers
Hi Cobra 427. Clearance on main and big end bearings is critical. We aim for .5 to 1 thou... By the time you get to 2.5 thou clearance you're losing a significant amount of pressure.
Hi , do you get your cranks ground to suit , i:e fit bearings and measure and grind crankshaft to get the desired clearance . Do you end up with a thou to a thou ¼ ? .cheers
Thanks for your comment. I did actually use sealant. If you look at about the 6minute 45second point in the video you will see I have smeared Loctite Master Gasket on the crankcase joint. We use it everywhere. One engine we rebuilt had an 8 thou gap in one spot on the crankcase flange. Master Gasket did the trick. It did not leak a drop.
I would use a fibre head hammer to tap the bearings into place as metal on metal can cause deformities , in fact a fibre head hammer should be used in all tapping operations .
Gary you're right, but if you do them up tighter the steel cap will crush into the end of the alloy rod and close up the clearance on the crankhaft. Half to one thou clearance is ideal for Trident big ends and it does not take much extra torque to close that up and bind on the crankshaft.
a complex process needing very skilled labour.. By contrast a Honda 750-4 motor was assembled by semi-skilled women in a fraction the time & would go about 4 time longer with complete reliability (& no Oil leaks)
Fella; you are repeating a mantra and actually seems that you are not real using a Triumph. I have 3 and are not Sunday bikes. The cb4 is not leaking oil due to the cases are the other way around...; the exhaust pipes are actually 2 pipes (one inside) and many more tricks. Regarding top speed; the trident are more agile and many test finished with the superiority of the trident. The cb is just felt too tourism.
@@TheReverb1 Never presume,, I raced a Daytona,, a Boneville & Rob North triple, with success .. The fact they went bust , due to appalling Mgt,, says it all..
What about the sludge traps in the crank,? Allow 3 hours to clean, you'll be amazed at the compacted metal, it is usually ignored, all that polishing is for what? jack shemans was emphatic about it, he built slippery_sam racers, mid 70s ,it's difficult to remove the grub screws, use heat, an old speedo cable is good, and use petrol to rinse, when you can pump it through clear is job done ,loctite new screws, disregard this and your work, polishing et al will be in vain,
M Mark more often than not the grub screws need to be drilled out with a tapping size drill and then cut the remnants out with a tap. A smaller drill is the quickest tool to remove the sludge initially. Replace with a socket head grub screw and definitely use thread locker!
I guess it all depends. If you build the engine in the frame you run the risk of scratching the frame and you are limited in space and movement. We do not put the engine in the frame when it's finished, we put the frame on the engine. It's much easier and there's almost no chance of scratching the frame doing it that way.
Sweet looking rods on that Triumph.
Very good and informative video. I also put my bearings in the freezer ( still in packaging to avoid condensation ) as it seems to increase the fitting clearance further
A fine video. The Triumph-3 is a strange engine, in that it was based on one and a half Triumph twin motors. When you strip one down, make sure you've got plenty of boxes to put the numerous castings into. Seems a dog's breakfast, but works very well in practice.
it is a dogs breakfast
Apparently there were 70+ machining. ops to build this engine.
I don't know what sealant you are using, but I found that (bite my tongue), grey Yamabond used sparingly will never leak. I used it on Bonnevilles, Triumph Cubs, BSAs of all kinds, including Rocket 3s, and Tridents. Everywhere I went people told me I had no oil in my bikes because I wasn't marking my territory. Now I haven't watched all the videos, but if you remove the expensive and inefficient oil filter and use an external add on filter, you get better filtration and that filter never plugs up.
I like the small filter used by Mitsubishi and some other cars and that a person can find remote brackets that are generally found on equipment such as welders and air compressors. My profession was heavy equipment mechanic so I learned to use what was available and those applications are ALWAYS cheaper than the same item purchased at your bike shop.The brackets & filters have the same mount as the Ford automotive filter, but the one used in Japanese cars is smaller and can be made less obtrusive. A Boyer Bransden electronic ignition makes everything work better and take the carb assy to some shop that can bore the carbs and put stainless sleeves over the slides. When doing this don't forget to drill the manifold and put balance tubes between.
Another performance trick is to find someone that can make a 3 into 1 exhaust and use a tuneable Supertrapp muffler on a dyno for max power.
Three Bond is Yamabond is Hondabond. No tongue biting needed. They work better than Hylomar.
@@obfuscated3090 What about Loctite 515?
Hi , do the t160s have any gearbox Weak points that should be looked at ? If motor work is in its future . My 5 speed makes zero noises shifts well and clutch let's me select neutral easy , Cheers
No. It's a great gearbox. Strong and easy to live with.
Will the T150s and T160s accept the MK2 amals that you don't have to tickle?
Yes it can be done but they mount differently so you need to do considerable modifications to make the switch.
@@ClassicTriumph cheers!!
Also have you ever measured up the clearance of a trident engine with low pressure issues to see how much clearance they were running with ? .
Hi Cobra 427. Clearance on main and big end bearings is critical. We aim for .5 to 1 thou... By the time you get to 2.5 thou clearance you're losing a significant amount of pressure.
Hi , do you get your cranks ground to suit , i:e fit bearings and measure and grind crankshaft to get the desired clearance . Do you end up with a thou to a thou ¼ ? .cheers
We fit the bearings, measure the diameter and grind the crank to suit. We aim for .5 to 1 thou clearance.
I have a Legend TT in the garage standing in tha last 20 years. What you suggest to changes/replace/check after such a long standing period?
Hello; I see that you did not used silicone or similar when jointed the cases; so Tridents are different than Twins regarding that? Thanks
Thanks for your comment. I did actually use sealant. If you look at about the 6minute 45second point in the video you will see I have smeared Loctite Master Gasket on the crankcase joint. We use it everywhere. One engine we rebuilt had an 8 thou gap in one spot on the crankcase flange. Master Gasket did the trick. It did not leak a drop.
Good video, just wondering what you've done to prepare those cases so nicely.
Vapour blasting produces that same sheen finish as seen here.
great vid,when are you making some more please.
Thanks for the comment. There are more videos on the way. As you can imagine it takes time!
I've just added a new video that follows on from my last one on Trident Clutch and Primary Drive that you might fin d interesting.
great video thanks
I would use a fibre head hammer to tap the bearings into place as metal on metal can cause deformities , in fact a fibre head hammer should be used in all tapping operations .
Yes, he would benefit from your superior knowledge and skill level.
Great work on a fine machine!! But that made n China ratchet breaks my heart!!!
Correct
You are a genius
daniel anderson... Not really. Just years of practice and some video skills I'm learning along the way.
18 foot llbs for mains .? Bolts would take twice that
Gary you're right, but if you do them up tighter the steel cap will crush into the end of the alloy rod and close up the clearance on the crankhaft. Half to one thou clearance is ideal for Trident big ends and it does not take much extra torque to close that up and bind on the crankshaft.
Better not use the "pie-crush" conrod nuts, there are many bad ones on the market.
a complex process needing very skilled labour.. By contrast a Honda 750-4 motor was assembled by semi-skilled women in a fraction the time & would go about 4 time longer with complete reliability (& no Oil leaks)
Fella; you are repeating a mantra and actually seems that you are not real using a Triumph. I have 3 and are not Sunday bikes. The cb4 is not leaking oil due to the cases are the other way around...; the exhaust pipes are actually 2 pipes (one inside) and many more tricks.
Regarding top speed; the trident are more agile and many test finished with the superiority of the trident. The cb is just felt too tourism.
@@TheReverb1 Never presume,, I raced a Daytona,, a Boneville & Rob North triple, with success .. The fact they went bust , due to appalling Mgt,,
says it all..
What about the sludge traps in the crank,? Allow 3 hours to clean, you'll be amazed at the compacted metal, it is usually ignored, all that polishing is for what? jack shemans was emphatic about it, he built slippery_sam racers, mid 70s ,it's difficult to remove the grub screws, use heat, an old speedo cable is good, and use petrol to rinse, when you can pump it through clear is job done ,loctite new screws, disregard this and your work, polishing et al will be in vain,
M Mark more often than not the grub screws need to be drilled out with a tapping size drill and then cut the remnants out with a tap. A smaller drill is the quickest tool to remove the sludge initially. Replace with a socket head grub screw and definitely use thread locker!
If the powers that be would have put the cams in the head the 1970s bike industry in the uk would probably have survived.
Triumph made a test bed with o/head cams and the improvement was negligible,
Yamaha made and sold the XS 750 triple and they are still in business. The historic Brit bike industry is sadly not.
Слишком сложно,чтоб просто ездить!
,bsa rocket 3 til salg
Nice video- shame about the music.
Doesn't make any sense to build the engine on the bench, build it in the frame, much easier .....
I guess it all depends. If you build the engine in the frame you run the risk of scratching the frame and you are limited in space and movement. We do not put the engine in the frame when it's finished, we put the frame on the engine. It's much easier and there's almost no chance of scratching the frame doing it that way.
Way too complicated !,
You are what is called a novice