Thanks Danny, I’ll stick with my 14 AWG pure copper from Amazon for 35 bucks for a 50 foot roll and a good set of banana connectors under 10 bucks. Perfect on my Marantz Model 40 coupled to my Encore’s. 😊
I wish that somebody would test the electrical characteristics of this cable, against the Kimber 8TC, to find out if they are the same product. It would be cool if Danny actually discovered a supplier of theirs and we could just buy it from Danny, at a huge discount! :D
Not the same product at all. This is China sourced, Kimber sources all raw materials from the USA and does all of their braiding in-house in Ogden, Utah.
Every time I buy from Danny he is very thorough and generous with his time and he has been better to me than he had to be. I trust and believe just about anything he offers is a genuine value that blows anything you will find in a chain store out of the water. In my experience with Danny, personally. Take that for what it’s worth. I bet these are a major improvement over what most of us have. Another great idea right here. Kudos
Что за шнур туда засунули? Какой диаметр шнура? И какой состав, хлопок или полиэстер? Полиэстер не даёт помех за счёт электростатического электричества?
Ok, folks! I just finished building 2 pairs of these cables. They are fairly easy to assemble, with the pulling of the rope through the cable being he most difficult. My advice is the make sure you use something stiff that is very close to the same diameter of the rope. Secure your guide carefully to the rope because you don't want it breaking loose and have to start again. Ask me how I know! Also, using gloves while squooshing the cable down the rope helps. I did 4, 16ft runs! After the first 16ft pair, my hands were toast! Listening impressions are very positive! Please understand that the motivation to try these cables came from the desire to move my speakers further out into the room, and my old cables just weren't long enough. I haven't moved the speakers yet because I need to make longer power cables for my Sanders electrostats. I have the Sanders Sound Model 10C speakers powered by 4 mono blocks at a total of 750wpc. These are already very revealing, but I was stunned to find a wider, taller soundstage. The bass was more forceful. So much so I had to use my crossover to pull a couple db out. The most impressive change was the "delicacy" improvement. Some may say this is more detail. They may be correct, but in the past, detail could equate to hard. Not with these cables.
Audio engineer chiming in: one of the worst ideas you can have are to use high current signal wires loosely braided. Every conductor that is carrying a current will have an equal magnetic field associated with it. Any conductor that is moving inside that magnetic field will have a current induced to it. Now, add air pressure vibrations, sound to the equation and what you get is two conductors, carrying a signal, moving in relation to each other in audio frequencies. That is stupid. If it is not molded geometry, it is rubbish. And braiding is not useful at all in speaker cables, we can run them parallel as there is no way in hell you can induce enough current that the down- OR upsides of the braiding matters, at all. All it does is increase the length of the wire, the one parameter we really do not want to increase. It will also make it heavier, and stiffer, neither of those are good qualities. Specially with the connectors commonly used in home audio that are not necessarily designed for very heavy cables. This DIY kit is stupid and useless.
lol one of the worst ideas you can have are to use high current signal........ ARE????? lol your entire post is stupid and USELESS as is your english skills....... MOST important point??? these cable SOUND BETTER!!... thats it and only it....
Don't bother even trying to bring science to the cool aid dispenser chat. Multiple solid points of logic just flew over a lot of heads. The psychoacoustics present from the ceremony and nowhere else.
Another Audio Engineer chiming in: The things you mention do play a role in a cable, but there are many more factors. If you would have done some math to quantify these factors, you would have known the significance of the things you mention is near zero. The braid is not that loose and the current is not that high, (Say 20A divided over 12 conductors ) The total length where the conductors run parallel is short, The air pressure is not that high, we 're talking living room levels, not stadium-concert. The surface of a conductor is very small for sound to have an effect on the position of the conductors. I've compared these cables to some others, that where way more expensive, I liked the GR-research cables the best, because they didn't degrade or color anything, just like Danny says in the video.
@@MrMisterMist lol. That is all i can say. And of course, shame on you for continuing this scam. Do some measurements, then a blind test if those measurements show anything remarkable. And of course, the last thing you want is a cable where the conductors move easily, from say... sound. I was not talking about air pressure, i specifically mentioned vibrations, ie: SOUND. I totally agree that it is miniscule effect but since there are NO beneficial effects from braiding, then there are only negatives. Even in that realm of "microscopic", it makes no sense to have a loose, braided cable that is just LONGER than it has to be. It does nothing good if it does anything at all, and it possibly can just degrade tings as capacitance changes all along the length of the cable. We are not talking about low level signals anymore, ffs. It can literally be a coat hanger and you will never be able to detect it with your ears, or to make any such "it is more transparent" claims. DO THE TESTING PROPERLY or do not claim any revolutionary effects that for some fucking reason are unknown to the industry. If it was really that much better that we can hear it: WE WOULD USE IT EVERYWHERE. How bad do you think professional audio and sound engineers are that they have not been able to notice it in the last 7 decades. To me, that is just arrogant to call every single "colleague" deaf.
Yeah, that's an *awesome* quality pair of speaker cables to have for about $200/pair and about 2 hours of your own time to assemble them!... Kimber Cable quality for a fraction of the price, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing that you made them yourself, which is really cool!... I've known that Kimber Cables are some of the best overall speaker wires for decades already, but I've never been able to actually afford a pair of them, so this option is awesome!... When I have some money to spare, (hopefully sometime next year, &/or after all of this Covid shit is finally over), then I would love to get a set of those! A few questions though; Can you also build bi-amp cables with this 24 conductor wire, separating each of the ends into 4 sets of 6 individual wires? (2 sets of 6 wires for each of the two positives, and 2 sets of 6 wires for each of the negatives) Or does that ruin the sound of each pair of conductors? Do ALL of the conductors have to work together to sound the best or can they be separated into the low and high frequencies like that?... OR, do you need two totally separate cables of equal lengths, with only the 2 conductors on each end, like you show, one cable each for both the lows and highs? If you have time to experiment with that option, (or you already know the definite answer to my inquiry), please let me know your thoughts on that whenever you have time to answer... Have a great holiday season and much thanks for all of your expertise in your videos!
I built mine for bi amp. Exactly I separated into 6 core groups then used banana plugs that can join together so that I can use as bi amp cable or just regular cables by joining the two reds together and both blacks together.
I think Danny had these wired to the NXtreme (?) that I was lucky enough to hear when I visited Danny in Wichita Falls a couple of weeks ago. I was there just to pick up some speakers, but I was treated to a very short (couple of songs) listening session - hooked up with what looked like these cables. Xtremely nice. :-D. Lots of inner detail, but the overall sense was very neutral and quiet. Thanks again Danny for finding another way to make amazing sound - very affordable.
I am a proud owner of a pair of the 24 strand GR Research speaker cables. Two days ago I received my new pair of Spatial Audio X5 open baffle speakers and I was breaking them in using my stock pair of Amazon speaker cables. Today I swapped out the Amazon cables for the Gr-Research cables and I immediately heard a HUGE improvement in overall sound quality - better clarity, better sound stage, better imaging, more dynamic punch, etc… And the difference was not subtle! So if you are on the fence watching this video wondering if you should get a pair of these cables and you have a decent pair of speakers and system do it! You won’t regret it.
it basically comes down to this, under 50 feet doesn't matter too much. Not certain what gauge 24 is, I believe he said it is 8 gauge, but 12 gauge is basically all you need. Cables are a battle always, I dont battle. I go by the rules of physics which are universal. Cables are no issue unless they are made wrong. Certain factors mentioned in this video do play a factor, but it is basically overkill. I am not here to advertise any wires, but almost any reputable 12 gauge cable is sufficient. Max price 60 for a 100 ft, you can find it for 40 easily. These cables are great, but again you need to be reasonable. The change is nominal, the question is if it is worth it to dish out the X amount of dollars for lets say 10% difference. As he had mentioned, depends on your system too. I would suggest to just get 16 threads, and also use banana plugs. You dont need to sauter or solder if you are using banana plugs. Also really up to the person, but I wouldn't run any rope through it. the benefit would merely be 2-3% better. And they cant even measure it any how.
I would suggest you watch the video he posted do audiophile cables matter. He says and very honest, that you'll stop more from coming in by adding these cables. But whatever else is being picked up by your system is now going to still be present. So now it comes down to the fact that you need to knock it all out to really get benefits and that the benefits will be far less until those other contaminations are given proper attention. Something very good to consider.
Blue Jeans Cable 'Ten White' (Belden 5T00UP 10AWG ) owner here, great speaker cables. From this point, if i do any upgrade, i'll go with Mundorf pure silver wires...end of story.
It would be really interesting to see you apply your speaker testing methods to these, and other, cables. Cables seem to be the biggest mystery area in audio. Can you measure a difference between these cables and some random 12GA copper cables? If so, make a video!
@@thehifimaster5618 That seems to be proof that some cables make better FM antennas than others. If any of those claims about radio energy coupling were actually an issue, then just use shielded cables for $3/ft and you'll get the same benefit, if there is any benefit to be had.
@@mdocod Most indeededly. And if you are content with the end result on your system that a $1/ft or $3/ft (Shielded) cable provides, that's great. Many people are more demanding or picky, and can perceive a difference in the cables, whether or not you can quantifty it on your test equipment. There is NO perfect conductor, as a matter of fact based on metallugy and physics, ALL cables will act as a filter (even a shielded one !). So even putting the maintenance of signal purity aside for a moment, you must agree that all cables will have a "flavour" of sorts. Your argument should probably be that, as far as you are concerned, it should be impossible, based on physiology, for any human to actually perceive any audible difference in the cables - Which would be far more plausible than claiming there is no difference. I personally like the way my system sounds with my current cable setup. I've changed cables a number of times - Without changing any other components, and I do perceive a difference. And if you, or anyone else would prefer to believe that it's all psychological, I don't care, it brings me joy and pleasure nevertheless. And if enjoying the difference a cable can make to my music listening experience is wrong... I don't wanna be right.
Kimber Kable their 4 conductor strand wire is good..though they don't sell 14 gauge..which is what you want to twist the sets of conductors to make 11gauge .this is great for running systems as low as 4 ohms..and for speaker wire runs up to 50 ft...look at Next Wire..just as good as Kimber though less money...
@@davidfesta3061 But that begs the question David, why would you run 50 foot speaker cable in a high quality audio system??? You would certainly try and keep all the equipment relatively close together!!
@@Nicholas.T I've never seen a situation where running 50ft speaker cable would be necessary..in a home audio system.. And of course you would want to keep your cable lengths as short as your room and set up will permit..my point is 4 conductor 14 gauge wire with pairs twisted..will give you 11 gauge and in system running down to 4 ohms will permit up to approximately 50 ft..with no audible loss of signal.. I'm not suggesting using that length of cable..
Dude, these things are badass! I used 3% silver solder, and it was a funking choir putting these things together; I have blisters on three fingers! But they sound fantastic, extremely clear and the soundstage, wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks Danny!
Real nice kit. Braiding all those wires by hand would be a deal breaker. Very tempting since the hard work is done. Gotta complete a dozen unfinished projects before bringing in more parts boxes.
Thank you, I appreciate the education, but I find I can't sit for the whole video. Too many commercial interruptions. I didn't time them, but every three to four minutes a commercial interruption.
I managed to get to the end eventually while listening to Mahler Symphony No. 5 in C-sharp minor -IV By Berliner Philharmoniker & Herbert Von Karajan I like Danny's videos entertaining and informative can't wait to try out some of his gear.
I built the 16 strand cables in an evening. I purchased an upgraded soldering iron, heat gun, and wire strippers in advance of the project. Only complaint I have is the project went too quickly :). I was hoping to kill at least a week while I wait for my amp build. Ended up only burning about 5 hours. Thanks Danny!!
Just get some amazon basic ofc whatever size you need and cheap banana plugs or spades you can even go bare back if you feel like it 😂 and I guarantee the only difference is that your wallet is heavier
Thanks for this video. Looking forward to putting one of these together.. just went to the link on the site and one suggestion for the kit to include three other options (tube + spade) and (tube+banana) for those like me who will want tube connector only on the speaker side and banana or spade on the amp side and lastly (Spade + Banana).
It would be nice if the end could fit all the conductors into it. When I make cables for my off grid solar system, soldering isn't advisable, hydraulically crimping the ends actually cold welds the conductors to the terminal. If you cut one in half, you can actually see the connector and cable have become one. Solder introduces contamination and corrosion. Not to mention brittleness at the joint, unlikely, but there's a potential for breakage. How many loose connections do techs find in equipment that doesn't even vibrate? Crimping, and correctly with the right dies solves all those issues.
I became a believer back in 2012 when I rolled Chris Venhaus's CAT5 cables. At the time I was using something basic from MonsterCable in a roll-your-own system that included Rod Elliott's P101 MOSFET amp. It sounded decent enough, but when I hooked in the big Venhaus braids I realized I'd only been experiencing a small fraction of what that amp was all about. If I ever get finished with the 8 channels of amplification I'm building right now for an active speaker system I'll be ordering sets of these new cables from Danny. Among other things, they'll save me from another bout of bleeding fingers. :)
I've been using this exact cable in my system years before I ever saw your videos. I used a very flexible fuel tubing to shove down the middle of mine.
Building mine right now. Rope feeding is really the easiest part. I have 12ft and it takes 2 min. I put masking tape to the end in how far I wanted to unwind the cables. After that the separation is important to get best positioning of the conductors. I have banana plugs that fit 8 AWG so I can solder them right in. Be careful stripping the wires as they are thin individually. If you guys like it I can make some pictures and post it on the forum.
I plan on ordering the 24 strand cable, I want as close to a pair of 8ft cables not including the spade connectors I plan to place. After reading the entire thread here, I plan on using the 1/2" cotton rope which Danny says is now included. 1. What length cable shall I order? 2. Danny do you include the teflon tube now? If not, 3. I like the drum stick idea. I know nothing about drum sticks, what diameter and length should I use and where do I buy drumsticks? Amazon? Thank you all. FYI, I am a retired electrical engineer previously employed by Hewlett Packard designing precision instrumentation in Colorado. I have been an audiophile for 47 years. I have used Kimber 12tc and 8tc in my systems. I studied the physics behind the multi stranded braided wire and can understand why this can make a difference in sound. I am far passed the discussions of the merits of cable selection and burn in. The greater quality of music I hear with using such cable geometry is unmistakable in my listening experience. Also the products that were designed and manufactured at Loveland Instrument Division in Colorado were powered up, tested, and burned in prior to shipping the product to our customers. And for precision measurement and control, cable matters. So for what it's worth, I say cables matter and burn in is necessary for all audio components. Danny, I am looking forward to trying one of you upgrade kits for my Wharfedales later this summer. Thanks all for the information in advance. If you don't agree with my ramble here, I don't care.
You'll have to tell us how long you need it. You can feed the rope through with just about anything. Even a pencil will work. You can order all of this online as well.
24 strands is terrible, you do realize that the current flows on top of the wire right so more wire means more surface area plus they're easier to manipulate
Danny, I have to get technical on you here. You mention that separating the conductors decreases the inductance, which with conductors carrying current in opposing directions as in this case, the inductance actually increases with the distance between conductors. The effect is logarithmic not linear, and a doubling of distance has approximately six times the inductance. Also, your use of radar-absorbent material acts as a small capacitor, so you are actually just lowering the roll-off frequency of the naturally occurring 2nd order low-pass filter created by the wires without the "tweaks". This might help in the case of a situation with a high level of EMI like in a city or having an amateur radio operator as a neighbor, but I think that in most cases the effect will be negligible to non-existent. You may disagree of course, but I would like to see some measurements of noise on the output of your power amps with your cables with the tweaks and without them. Also compared to other lower cost cables of similar length and physical positioning relative to other potentially noise inducing cables. But as a big DIYer myself, I thoroughly believe in building cables yourself, and speakers as well. 👍 Oh, I also have to say I like the new website design, finally see the X-MTMs I'm building. 👍👍
As a math person, I have to ask if this makes sense. If inductance increases with distance between conductors, then as distance approaches infinity, then so does inductance - which makes no sense. Also, L = Phi(i)/i, where i is current, and Phi(i) is magnetic flux. Magnetic flux decreases with distance, implying that as distance increases, Phi decreases. As distance approaches infinity, Phi(i) approaches 0, and so does L. Lastly, I know there are special functions for various types of set ups, but any function used to calculate L, must be equal to the parent function. I.E. L = (some derived function) = Phi(i)/i. If (some derived function) not= Phi(i)/i, then (some derived function) is the wrong function. Please set me straight if I am wrong.
@@joshua43214 I have to say that I also struggle with this. In researching the inductance of parallel wires with opposing current direction, the related equations show an increase of inductance with spacing and length, which as you point out would go to infinity at infinite spacing. I look at it this way, which seems more intuitive. If EITHER the spacing OR length goes to infinity, then so will the inductance. The same can be said for resistance. So in practical terms, the resistance and inductance (as well as capacitance) are all affected by the geometry, but the audible effect is what really counts, and this is what really matters of course. Given that the inductance and capacitance of all reasonably designed and constructed cables is such that the effect on audio frequencies is negligible, I am not among the believers in the great differences in the sound of cables.
@@Coneman3 I read the white paper on these cables and it is clear the designer Roger Skoff is just balancing the capacitance and inductance to a hypothetical optimum ratio and using the terms electrostatic and electromagnetic fields in place of capacitance and inductance to sound more high tech. Given that the amount of capacitance and inductance in the short runs of cables commonly used in home audio environments is small, the effect on audible frequencies is so small as to be negligible. And the claimed impact on power cables with 50 or 60 Hz frequencies is just absurd.
@mr do I have made a pair of cables with pants just a little too small and was able to strip wire and fit them through the pants stripped. Maybe not perfect but worked
Hi Danny. I bought rolls of that in bulk as well. Good stuff. Just fyi, it is fake Kimber kable TC series. Made in China. Compare it to Kimber sometime. It shocked me how different it sounds. Neat project@
Nice video. I bought some 8tc similar cable from an outside source too, high purity copper and all. It appears to be no different than the Kimber 8tc. Nice soundstage and all. There are a lot of misconceptions in audio land about these types of cable and they are mostly wrong. In the old days it's called folklore everyone tends to repeat. In the 1980s they called it a mantra that's repeated over and over, then after that in the 90s they call it a meme. Back to the non issue. A lot of discussion goes on about how the low inductance of this cable leads to high capacitance which is claimed to damage amplifiers, ie oscillations and so on. You do not have to be an electronics theorist to realize that this is incorrect by just looking at numbers. For example 8tc is rated at 346 pico farads per meter. A 4 meter cable would then have about 1400 pico farads capacitance. Low and behold the speaker crossover has a capacitor (at the beginning?) of typically around let's say 1 micro farads. This only adds 1 micro farads + 0.000346. = 1.000346 microfarads. No significance whatsoever. So if the capacitor is in front of the crossover (not sure) then the amp load from cable to speaker is not an issue. Even so 0.000346 micro farads not significant if you don't even add capacitance. If you figure in relativity, then the amp only experiences the capacitance of the cable and crossover as a single capacitance value. Amps don't have problems with crossovers so why insignificant cable. Resistance and low inductance are the things to look at, with resistance generally not any problem with copper conductor. One last thing, Kimber talks about counterfeits. They never talk about their source or that they have patent rights on the design and material. So it's the Wild West for the consumer. Correctly, they are right when a counterfeit is passed off as Kimber cable which is wrong. Everything else is business as usual. I believe the tc wire is probably sourced from Japan, and a lot of it is shipped to China. Oscillating amp damage from high capacitance cable, some other issue is involved or it's made up by the industry.
I've finished to build two pairs of a similar cable (24-cores) and I would say that low inductance is a thing. Before I had a thick 2-cores cable (just a good one) and that new one beat it in all aspects especially in sound dynamics. This is easy to hear that. I only have no idea why the rope is needed. And I doubt it's a "pure copper in a teflon"). Looks like a China made (al everything these days) breaded cable for 11 euros/meter (despite they state "OCC pure copper bla-bla-bla"). Nobody needs a pure copper, and no one manufactures a pure copper in mass market quantities. Let's be an adult. An insulation may contain some teflon, or may not. It feels better than PVC, but is far from a "natural" teflon I remember. It's nice to use "cable pants" and cable sleeves, however if you would like to have it finished like a $200/pair cable, several hours must be spent, and few cables must be assembled before you got all technics and workflows.
We done run through's on that and we're 100%. We are just waiting to get multiple cameras over and set up to film it. We are also bringing in some microphones that we think will allow everyone else to here it as well.
Hi, This is Brian. I couldnt believe you quoted your prices. And then i couldnt believe how reasonable the prices actually were. I remember places selling cable in ads in stereo review magazine. They asked 100 dollars a foot in the 1990s. And some people bought it. Although their problems were with having expensive amplifiers with limited abilities, they reasoned their problems were with the speaker cable. Some foolish people spent thousands on speaker cable and it turned out to be simple high end wire worth only about 30 cents a foot. It always gave the novice audiophile bragging rights because their wire cost more, therefore it was better. So they thought. Anyway, thanks for making an affordable alternative . if someone fails to purchase your kit for 39.95, let them try and top it. Those good connections always wind up being Very expensive. Good Job, Men. Keep it up!!
Great video that helped me make my cables, but I cut 9' lengths of cable and "lost" a foot after I stretched the weave and put the rope inside. Luckily, I needed an 8-9' cable so it worked out. Just know as you open up the cable there will be some shortening.
Reminds me a song : "Send it to me" But I'm on a single Duelund awg 12GA test right now. I think it's just & only another highway to hell. Both could be a nice ticket... or maybe I'm wrong ?
you are wrong bro i have a very high end system and use one pair of 12 awg duelund multy strand tinned copper cotton sleeving after alot of testing with other cables this one is the best by far......
Great video but, does this make any sense for a lower cost audio system, to have cables costing almost as much as the speakers? Would not it be better to invest in better speakers first?
No, this isn't the place to invest your whole budget. Start with a good set of speakers and a well set up and treated room. But as your system moves up the performance ladder a few hundred dollars for an improvement these offer most people is a bargain.
How much does the rope inside reduce the length? if I bought 10 foot of cable and then increased the diameter by inserting the rope, would that not reduce the length?
I bought a 8 foot pair of the 16 strand assembled. I run Cary Audio Design Pre, Power, HDCD, and a pair of Revel F-32 speakers. The improvement in sound was not subtle. Greater air, soundstage, and well defined fast bass with greater impact. The litmus test? If I lost these, I would replace them with the same. Thank you Danny:)
@@LeoRousseau Gmorn Leo, assembly looked tedious. I opted for assembly. The insertion of the interior rope shortens the length. I think I paid for a ten foot pair which after assembly winds up to be eight foot. I think it was close to $300. You can email for a quote. All of my equipment has been upgraded, except my speaker wires. Im diggin em. Merry Christmas my friend. Danny is a “stand up” guy!
Danny, you have me very interested in this upgrade. I have used very heavy gauge Monster cable in a bi-wired mode between a Denon receiver and a pair of Snell Type D tower speakers for over 20 years and never gave it a thought. My question is would bi-wiring with your cable be an improvement over just going with a pair of your 24 lead wire cables? If I went with a bi-wire setup would I need to use the same cable for both leads or could I use the smaller cable for one lead (Tweeter lead?). Thanks, Ken
It will sound better if used the whole cable and did not split it up into a Bi-wired cable. Then replace both sets of binding posts with one set of tube connectors.
Not gonna go down the cable rabbit hole debate, but I will say that when I made my own wire, did I appreciate the fact it was time consuming and a PITA and I appreciated the costs of reasonably priced speaker wire with quality connectors, and such, so ignoring the claims of superior audio, if one wants to do the labor, this is a good deal for the $ for decent wire.
I just finished building a pair of these GR-Research cables for a customer and have a healthy respect for why retail versions are so expensive. Partly lack of competition, combined with fact that they are highly labor intensive to assemble. 24 strands per end x 4 ends for pair of cables =96 ends to strip, which each require at least two stripping efforts because of the length of stripped cable needed= 192 end stripping actions. Depending upon your connections, you may be sorting and separating individual strands, with multiple solder operations per connector. Tube connectors are the best performing option but also most labor intensive with this set. All said and done it could be 6 to 8 hours + of labor, if you are performing the high-quality, appearance-perfection matters type of assembly that customers demand. Sure it could be done faster but that extra speed is usually the difference between something that looks DIY vs something that looks professional. 6.5 foot pairs of Danny's 24ga wire costs are 15ft x $13.95=$210. +$39 for terminations= $249. A retailer then adds a skilled labor cost of $50/hr x 6hrs for additional $300. That's $549 before marketing budget, website management, facility costs, and profit markup. That's why Kimber charges $692 for the same length pair. I personally believe that the GR-research cable is superior to the Kimber cable version as the GR kit adds the benefits of the inserted rope opening up the conductors, and the ESR shielding tape. It's a better product for approx $250 in product cost vs $690 for the Kimber assembled version. Even if you had to pay someone to assemble the GR kit you would still be far ahead in cost, and have a better performing product. No contest.
I built two 6’ runs of Danny’s 24 conductor speaker wires. They caused my Schiit Aegir to go into protection as soon as I plugged them into the amp. The wires worked fine with my NAD and McIntosh amps. Strange. I wrote Danny asking about this.
@@syhi7971it's not a short naims early amplifiers did the same thing with some cables I believe Kimber braided may have been one, they had their own cable to suit the characteristics of their amps NAC A5 I think it was called it's either reactance or capacitance, the latter I think
Assembled a pair of 16-strand cables a couple weeks ago! They made a bigger difference than I honestly expected and it was noticable within just a couple seconds. Using tube connectors & bananas. They really added a lot of depth to the soundstage & even more clarity vs my previous pair of cheap zip-cord that also used the same connections. 10/10 would recommend if your looking for a great sounding cable. 👍 Thanks, Danny!
Danny, you need to let your viewers know that if they need a 12 feet cable, 16 strand and insert the 9/16” rope that comes with order, that you will end up with a 9’-6” cable NOT 12 feet. Now my cable is a 1 foot short and should it been a foot longer. Waste of money
We send it out with the rope now and the rope is only 1/2" diameter. For a 12 foot run the rope will reduce it a little more than a foot and a little less than two feet depending on how tight you pull it down on it. We also note that on the website.
I find much of what Danny has to say valuable. However I do take exception to his use of the term "Flat Earther." A person who believes in a flat earth does so because they distrust science and rely solely on their powers of observation and their ability to reason with their observations. They look at the surface of an ocean or large lake and it appears flat, so therefor the earth must be flat. This is irrespective of the science. People who listen to systems and hear differences which are not demonstrable using measurements, only through the listener's powers of observations seem more similar to "flat earthers" than those who use both their powers of observation and the science. Having said that I will admit to the possibility that there may be more to setting up a system well than what is currently measurable. If this is the case, I would think that Danny and others who hear these differences would be expending much of their resources to find ways of measuring them. The first person who can develop a system which can reliably measure the "X-factor" and provide a tool to be used in system setup which takes the X-factor into consideration will have both accolades and cash showered on them.
I am afraid that will be a long, long wait. Joining an audio club would be more realistic. It is a journey, and you have to start somewhere. It sounds like you want it all on a silver platter, yet you don't believe in any of it. You will never understand/believe until you experience it yourself.
@@jamespeck276 I want nothing on a silver platter. I spend many hours working with my systems and find the efforts enjoyable. I will admit to being an empiricist, and ascribe to the platitude "seeing (hearing) is believing." I have not seen nor experienced a cable (speaker or interconnect) making a difference in the sound of any systems I have heard. As a true agnostic, I don't discount that it exists and that my hearing may not be good enough, the systems I've listened to refined enough or the rooms I 've been in tuned well enough to hear a difference. BTW I recently read an argument against a flat earth that made me chuckle. The reasoning goes like this; If the earth were flat, capitalists would have hotels built and cruises to the edge of the earth. There would be giant swings where for $100 you could swing out over the edge and look down.
@@paulstearns93 I, personally, can't wait until Elon Musk shots off to Mars with his "friends". If you have never experienced an imaging system that you get with dipole/planars, then give this teaser a try...super cheap and 60 day return if you hate it. It is far from perfect, but it just might surprise you. Big amp is preferred, but not totally necessary. www.magnepan.com/model_lrs www.stereophile.com/content/magnepan-lrs-loudspeaker-0 Play with this thing for 60 days and you will learn about sound stage depth, width, height, imaging, your room, speaker placement, listening position, room dampening, transparency, definition, etc. Start out 3-4 feet from wall...up to 5 or six...experiment...straight ahead, toe in. Super light, put tape on floor..Keep speakers within 1/2 inch difference from back wall. Form a triangle with your speakers and go from there. The LRS instruction manual has some good tips..but still experiment. In the setup see how much bass you can squeeze out with different placements and seating distances and positions in the room. Play around in the room. I prefer tweeters on the inside, but experiment. Play and live with it for awhile.... and then if you have a sub, hook it up, hopefully it is adjustable, set xover at 100 hz or lower. As always, experiment. This is all a lot of work, but enjoyable and worth it for some. If you like it, then enjoy it, or it may be just the beginning...if this is not fun for you, then the hell with it I say. After all, most of the fun is in the journey. If you have box speakers up against the wall I doubt you will hear speaker wire difference. Good Luck.
@@jamespeck276 My main speakers are Maggie 2.7 QRs, my rears are MMGs. I have designed and built OB speakers and built GR Research's OB subs which I use with the Maggie 2.7 QRs. Right at the moment I have tweets on the outside, but I have only had the 2.7s for a few months and haven't finished fiddling with them. I recently picked up a pair of .7s and am currently building a pair of stands which I designed and are unlike anything else I have seen. I hope to have one ready for testing in a day or two. An ancient Buddhist saying, "If you meet the Buddha on the road kill him." When I apply this to folks like Danny Ritchie, I try to understand what they are saying, filter everything they says through my experience/understanding of sound and integrate everything which makes sense to me in my "evolved" understanding. But yes fun is the ultimate goal.
@@paulstearns93 Great setup. Are you hi passing the amp feeding the Maggies so they are relieved of the lowest bass...increased clarity and no muddiness when they are hi passed. I can tell you a simple fix.
I bought a diy braided cable similar to this but it’s bundled solid core wires (4 per conductor) twisted. Amazing bass and sound staging - but was like being shouted at and a little ‘Dry’. Loved the dynamics but yea, harsh. So I’d be very Interested in this. I suspect the fact each individual core is insulated and braided, along with the rope, makes a big difference.
Things that affect soundstage >> The recording engineer The speakers The speaker placement The room itself. Please explain in detail how a speaker cable can affect soundstage ??
@@poserwanabe The sound stage can be effected across the board. Layer, placement, depth, width, and space between and around instruments are all effected.
@@dannyrichie9743 well I've been professionally involved in audio and electrical engineering for over 40yrs and I'm calling BS, you haven't answered the question....peace.
@@poserwanabe You can call BS, but you'd be mistaken. 40 years in audio and you still haven't learned the basics? All of those spatial cues that make up all those sound stage effects are found in the very top end. Haven't you ever notice how the systems with really high resolution and low noise floors have the best imaging? And the systems with low resolution and smearing really lack in the imaging department? Well all of that RFI and EMI really effects the top end where all that information is. And will you filter out the interference everything really opens up.
Whoo! All I gotta say is thanks! This is really fun when it’s affordable! Still have the flat world there! Hehe! Just wanted to say you must use the right kinda crimper. Or the crimp will be all messed up.
This approach to why cables make a difference is such an eye opener. From this angle it now makes sense. I still can’t stand companies that try to say their cables have a direction and it’s just regular cable runs (you all might know who I’m talking about and if not, take a small quest in audio and you’ll figure it out). But, after talking about field effects and winding canceling out inductive intrusions and other sorts of EM/FI the approach is valid. Thank you for making this vid and also providing a channel for us to get our hands on the raw materials. No way in hell am I paying a grand for some cables when we can do a little work and grab the mats for $40. Thank you! Doing god’s work lol
I always buy Blue Jeans cables. Made in Seattle. Speaker wire is all 12 ga, and 10 gauge US made Belden stock made with optional sonic welded termination. Very good wire without any pretense of audiophile one way or another. Same with their interconnects. All Belden stock and all at very good prices.
Just finished putting some of these together. Using a 1' long piece of dowel about the diameter of a pencil taped to the rope made getting the rope go through the cable really easy. Stripping and twisting all the strands to get good symmetry and length uniformity was way more time consuming, (and way more of a PITA ). Also none of the six strand twists, (i did 16 of them) fit inside the tube supplied connectors without the help of a dremel tool. Looking forward to seeing if these will deliver a sonic improvement over my old Virtual Dynamics Nite spade terminated cables.
@@Canadian_Eh_I I stupidly assumed the tube terminations would work fine w/ my speakers and amp...they might work, but they seem pretty loose in the binding posts, so I'm going to cut them off and start over w/ KLEI banana terminations.
I am genuinly confused about even the most basic of materials used here. 1. You say it's teflon insulated, but I read/hear polyethylene which is not teflon, and PET does not have the properties of Teflon. So what gives? 2. You are adding some poly?-cotton?-nylon? rope. What the actual is going on with that? Cotton nylon mix? What? Could you clarify? 3. ESR sheilding? Equivalent Series Resistance sheild? Agressive Radar absorbing?? I don't even know what to say, I don't even know where to even start unpacking that. 4. What kind of solder? What flux? What alloy is in it?
I want to build a high level subwoofer cable for my Rel with low inductance and high impedance. Which geometry would you recommend? ( 3 wire: 1-GND / L channel /R channel
Good gosh! Watching Danny play with his big white cables is the perfect combination of listening to women’s Wimbledon up loud and watching Japanese tentacle…”stuff”. “Get it good and hot and give it a good squeeze…it’s got a little titt-ee on the end…” I love it. And, by the way, Newton’s laws still cover 90 percent or better of life on a flat planet, even when it’s really round,. (wink…and ducks and runs for cover!)
I'm not an audiophile. Thank God. My whole estate-sale-find system cost me less than two of these cables would cost. I've considered adding tube connectors to my AR P428 PS speaker connects. Those would cost about half of what I have in the whole thing. I'm glad I just like stereos and am not a 'phile. I may buy a speaker kit, from GR in the future, with which I will have to use Amazon speaker wire. I have financial limitations on my hobbies. Audiophilia isn't in the cards, praise Jesus.
Im thinking of making of making my own diy premium speaker wire for a SVS 5.1 system. Can I twist two 14 gauge wire for the neg and two 14 guage for the positive. I plan on using Monoprice Access Series 14AWG CL2 Rated 4-Conductor Speaker Wire. Will this be to thick to run to my satellite speakers? The longest run is 20' to 25' (rears) 3' to 6' (fronts). Any response is appreciated - Thanks
Can it be used to my sourround or to my headphones? Missing what the little cable are used for lenght of the cable to the speaker. Is it for b&w or beolab90?
@@AudioheavenDenmark this to me is a problem... a NON audio related problem.. rewarding china for stealing ray kimbers design and selling it to people in the very country where they stole the design from and out from under ray by offering it at a steep discount and then getting americans to peddle it for them.... hmmmmmmmm
Hi. Thank you for the great video. Do you have any comments on pairing sprout 100 with Wharfdale Denton or Linton? Will these cables be too much for that setup?
Do both cables need o be the same length? The run from my amp to one of the speakers is about 10 feet and the run to the other speaker is about 25 feet because I have to run it around the room to avoid running it across the floor.
Danny, thks for the rope into the cable, it is really a simple tweak to already a great cable, quieter and more details come through, I reckon it’s at the level of Kimber Select series .
@@dannyrichie9743 I believe in your work and your analogies are good. Radio frequencies aren’t in the audio range maybe, the principles remain the same and those of us with very revealing systems can hear a difference between lamp cord and “expensive” cable if in no other observation than the presence of the artist being in the room with you (if the recording was done well).
Thanks Danny, I’ll stick with my 14 AWG pure copper from Amazon for 35 bucks for a 50 foot roll and a good set of banana connectors under 10 bucks. Perfect on my Marantz Model 40 coupled to my Encore’s. 😊
I wish that somebody would test the electrical characteristics of this cable, against the Kimber 8TC, to find out if they are the same product. It would be cool if Danny actually discovered a supplier of theirs and we could just buy it from Danny, at a huge discount! :D
Not the same product at all. This is China sourced, Kimber sources all raw materials from the USA and does all of their braiding in-house in Ogden, Utah.
@@brettterry1707ya, thats why its $1000 for 8 feet 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Every time I buy from Danny he is very thorough and generous with his time and he has been better to me than he had to be. I trust and believe just about anything he offers is a genuine value that blows anything you will find in a chain store out of the water. In my experience with Danny, personally. Take that for what it’s worth. I bet these are a major improvement over what most of us have. Another great idea right here. Kudos
Are you paying for this crap? One born eh? bet you've seen the emperors new clothes?
Что за шнур туда засунули? Какой диаметр шнура? И какой состав, хлопок или полиэстер? Полиэстер не даёт помех за счёт электростатического электричества?
@@АлександрЗябликов-щ1я Teflon insulator
Well geez. I need to give me some of the cable.
Ok, folks! I just finished building 2 pairs of these cables. They are fairly easy to assemble, with the pulling of the rope through the cable being he most difficult. My advice is the make sure you use something stiff that is very close to the same diameter of the rope. Secure your guide carefully to the rope because you don't want it breaking loose and have to start again. Ask me how I know! Also, using gloves while squooshing the cable down the rope helps. I did 4, 16ft runs! After the first 16ft pair, my hands were toast!
Listening impressions are very positive! Please understand that the motivation to try these cables came from the desire to move my speakers further out into the room, and my old cables just weren't long enough. I haven't moved the speakers yet because I need to make longer power cables for my Sanders electrostats.
I have the Sanders Sound Model 10C speakers powered by 4 mono blocks at a total of 750wpc. These are already very revealing, but I was stunned to find a wider, taller soundstage. The bass was more forceful. So much so I had to use my crossover to pull a couple db out. The most impressive change was the "delicacy" improvement. Some may say this is more detail. They may be correct, but in the past, detail could equate to hard. Not with these cables.
Audio engineer chiming in: one of the worst ideas you can have are to use high current signal wires loosely braided. Every conductor that is carrying a current will have an equal magnetic field associated with it. Any conductor that is moving inside that magnetic field will have a current induced to it. Now, add air pressure vibrations, sound to the equation and what you get is two conductors, carrying a signal, moving in relation to each other in audio frequencies. That is stupid.
If it is not molded geometry, it is rubbish. And braiding is not useful at all in speaker cables, we can run them parallel as there is no way in hell you can induce enough current that the down- OR upsides of the braiding matters, at all. All it does is increase the length of the wire, the one parameter we really do not want to increase. It will also make it heavier, and stiffer, neither of those are good qualities. Specially with the connectors commonly used in home audio that are not necessarily designed for very heavy cables.
This DIY kit is stupid and useless.
lol one of the worst ideas you can have are to use high current signal........ ARE????? lol your entire post is stupid and USELESS as is your english skills....... MOST important point??? these cable SOUND BETTER!!... thats it and only it....
Don't bother even trying to bring science to the cool aid dispenser chat. Multiple solid points of logic just flew over a lot of heads.
The psychoacoustics present from the ceremony and nowhere else.
Another Audio Engineer chiming in:
The things you mention do play a role in a cable, but there are many more factors.
If you would have done some math to quantify these factors, you would have known the significance of the things you mention is near zero.
The braid is not that loose and the current is not that high, (Say 20A divided over 12 conductors )
The total length where the conductors run parallel is short,
The air pressure is not that high, we 're talking living room levels, not stadium-concert.
The surface of a conductor is very small for sound to have an effect on the position of the conductors.
I've compared these cables to some others, that where way more expensive, I liked the GR-research cables the best, because they didn't degrade or color anything, just like Danny says in the video.
@@MrMisterMist lol. That is all i can say. And of course, shame on you for continuing this scam. Do some measurements, then a blind test if those measurements show anything remarkable. And of course, the last thing you want is a cable where the conductors move easily, from say... sound. I was not talking about air pressure, i specifically mentioned vibrations, ie: SOUND.
I totally agree that it is miniscule effect but since there are NO beneficial effects from braiding, then there are only negatives. Even in that realm of "microscopic", it makes no sense to have a loose, braided cable that is just LONGER than it has to be.
It does nothing good if it does anything at all, and it possibly can just degrade tings as capacitance changes all along the length of the cable. We are not talking about low level signals anymore, ffs. It can literally be a coat hanger and you will never be able to detect it with your ears, or to make any such "it is more transparent" claims. DO THE TESTING PROPERLY or do not claim any revolutionary effects that for some fucking reason are unknown to the industry. If it was really that much better that we can hear it: WE WOULD USE IT EVERYWHERE. How bad do you think professional audio and sound engineers are that they have not been able to notice it in the last 7 decades. To me, that is just arrogant to call every single "colleague" deaf.
@@squidcaps4308 ... to stay in speaker therms: I'm baffled.
Yeah, that's an *awesome* quality pair of speaker cables to have for about $200/pair and about 2 hours of your own time to assemble them!... Kimber Cable quality for a fraction of the price, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing that you made them yourself, which is really cool!...
I've known that Kimber Cables are some of the best overall speaker wires for decades already, but I've never been able to actually afford a pair of them, so this option is awesome!... When I have some money to spare, (hopefully sometime next year, &/or after all of this Covid shit is finally over), then I would love to get a set of those!
A few questions though; Can you also build bi-amp cables with this 24 conductor wire, separating each of the ends into 4 sets of 6 individual wires? (2 sets of 6 wires for each of the two positives, and 2 sets of 6 wires for each of the negatives) Or does that ruin the sound of each pair of conductors? Do ALL of the conductors have to work together to sound the best or can they be separated into the low and high frequencies like that?... OR, do you need two totally separate cables of equal lengths, with only the 2 conductors on each end, like you show, one cable each for both the lows and highs?
If you have time to experiment with that option, (or you already know the definite answer to my inquiry), please let me know your thoughts on that whenever you have time to answer...
Have a great holiday season and much thanks for all of your expertise in your videos!
I built mine for bi amp. Exactly I separated into 6 core groups then used banana plugs that can join together so that I can use as bi amp cable or just regular cables by joining the two reds together and both blacks together.
I think Danny had these wired to the NXtreme (?) that I was lucky enough to hear when I visited Danny in Wichita Falls a couple of weeks ago. I was there just to pick up some speakers, but I was treated to a very short (couple of songs) listening session - hooked up with what looked like these cables. Xtremely nice. :-D. Lots of inner detail, but the overall sense was very neutral and quiet. Thanks again Danny for finding another way to make amazing sound - very affordable.
I am a proud owner of a pair of the 24 strand GR Research speaker cables. Two days ago I received my new pair of Spatial Audio X5 open baffle speakers and I was breaking them in using my stock pair of Amazon speaker cables. Today I swapped out the Amazon cables for the Gr-Research cables and I immediately heard a HUGE improvement in overall sound quality - better clarity, better sound stage, better imaging, more dynamic punch, etc… And the difference was not subtle! So if you are on the fence watching this video wondering if you should get a pair of these cables and you have a decent pair of speakers and system do it! You won’t regret it.
snake oil
@@Deke1poor hearing it's ik
Why would someone need the 24 over the 16?
Is the 24 for longer run cable runs or high powered amplifier?
Thanks
it basically comes down to this, under 50 feet doesn't matter too much. Not certain what gauge 24 is, I believe he said it is 8 gauge, but 12 gauge is basically all you need. Cables are a battle always, I dont battle. I go by the rules of physics which are universal. Cables are no issue unless they are made wrong. Certain factors mentioned in this video do play a factor, but it is basically overkill. I am not here to advertise any wires, but almost any reputable 12 gauge cable is sufficient. Max price 60 for a 100 ft, you can find it for 40 easily. These cables are great, but again you need to be reasonable. The change is nominal, the question is if it is worth it to dish out the X amount of dollars for lets say 10% difference. As he had mentioned, depends on your system too.
I would suggest to just get 16 threads, and also use banana plugs. You dont need to sauter or solder if you are using banana plugs. Also really up to the person, but I wouldn't run any rope through it. the benefit would merely be 2-3% better. And they cant even measure it any how.
I would suggest you watch the video he posted do audiophile cables matter. He says and very honest, that you'll stop more from coming in by adding these cables. But whatever else is being picked up by your system is now going to still be present. So now it comes down to the fact that you need to knock it all out to really get benefits and that the benefits will be far less until those other contaminations are given proper attention. Something very good to consider.
Blue Jeans Cable 'Ten White' (Belden 5T00UP 10AWG ) owner here, great speaker cables. From this point, if i do any upgrade, i'll go with Mundorf pure silver wires...end of story.
It would be really interesting to see you apply your speaker testing methods to these, and other, cables. Cables seem to be the biggest mystery area in audio. Can you measure a difference between these cables and some random 12GA copper cables? If so, make a video!
Dave Rat has some videos on testing cables that are very good.
ua-cam.com/video/DC0s6KqQz3g/v-deo.html - Solid proof that some cables affect performance negatively
@@thehifimaster5618 That seems to be proof that some cables make better FM antennas than others. If any of those claims about radio energy coupling were actually an issue, then just use shielded cables for $3/ft and you'll get the same benefit, if there is any benefit to be had.
@@mdocod Most indeededly. And if you are content with the end result on your system that a $1/ft or $3/ft (Shielded) cable provides, that's great. Many people are more demanding or picky, and can perceive a difference in the cables, whether or not you can quantifty it on your test equipment. There is NO perfect conductor, as a matter of fact based on metallugy and physics, ALL cables will act as a filter (even a shielded one !). So even putting the maintenance of signal purity aside for a moment, you must agree that all cables will have a "flavour" of sorts. Your argument should probably be that, as far as you are concerned, it should be impossible, based on physiology, for any human to actually perceive any audible difference in the cables - Which would be far more plausible than claiming there is no difference. I personally like the way my system sounds with my current cable setup. I've changed cables a number of times - Without changing any other components, and I do perceive a difference. And if you, or anyone else would prefer to believe that it's all psychological, I don't care, it brings me joy and pleasure nevertheless. And if enjoying the difference a cable can make to my music listening experience is wrong... I don't wanna be right.
@@thehifimaster5618 no, you cannot perceive the differences in a blind ABX test. But keep believing you can and support folks like these.
Hmmm - Kimber cable for a fraction of the price - that's good pricing👍👍
Kimber Kable their 4 conductor strand wire is good..though they don't sell 14 gauge..which is what you want to twist the sets of conductors to make 11gauge .this is great for running systems as low as 4 ohms..and for speaker wire runs up to 50 ft...look at Next Wire..just as good as Kimber though less money...
@@davidfesta3061 But that begs the question David, why would you run 50 foot speaker cable in a high quality audio system??? You would certainly try and keep all the equipment relatively close together!!
@@Nicholas.T I've never seen a situation where running 50ft speaker cable would be necessary..in a home audio system.. And of course you would want to keep your cable lengths as short as your room and set up will permit..my point is 4 conductor 14 gauge wire with pairs twisted..will give you 11 gauge and in system running down to 4 ohms will permit up to approximately 50 ft..with no audible loss of signal.. I'm not suggesting using that length of cable..
At the beginning of the video, I thought I would need to braid the whole thing by hand
Like the new site by the way
Dude, these things are badass! I used 3% silver solder, and it was a funking choir putting these things together; I have blisters on three fingers! But they sound fantastic, extremely clear and the soundstage, wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks Danny!
A choir? So you had a group of people singing while setting up?
@@PeterKKraus Autocorrect from hell... Was supposed to have been "chore"
@@jackjones7665 (edited) isn't a conspiracy.
Real nice kit. Braiding all those wires by hand would be a deal breaker. Very tempting since the hard work is done. Gotta complete a dozen unfinished projects before bringing in more parts boxes.
Thank you, I appreciate the education, but I find I can't sit for the whole video. Too many commercial interruptions. I didn't time them, but every three to four minutes a commercial interruption.
I managed to get to the end eventually while listening to Mahler Symphony No. 5 in C-sharp minor -IV By Berliner Philharmoniker & Herbert Von Karajan I like Danny's videos entertaining and informative can't wait to try out some of his gear.
I built the 16 strand cables in an evening. I purchased an upgraded soldering iron, heat gun, and wire strippers in advance of the project. Only complaint I have is the project went too quickly :). I was hoping to kill at least a week while I wait for my amp build. Ended up only burning about 5 hours. Thanks Danny!!
Alpha Audio: Your speaker cable matters! 32 speaker cables tested - with measurements!
ua-cam.com/video/2kb5h1XIb-Y/v-deo.html
Voice coils have very thin wire in them. How is this not a problem?
they also go a very short distance though right?
Hi Danny, I’m interested in this speaker cables.. what are the sonic differences between the 16strand and 24 strand cables? Thank you
Fun video to geek out to. Liking the Jon Bon Jovi haircut! Inspiration to be had here
Just get some amazon basic ofc whatever size you need and cheap banana plugs or spades you can even go bare back if you feel like it 😂 and I guarantee the only difference is that your wallet is heavier
Great video as always. But I am getting an advert every four minutes or so. It's too much. Left before the end.
Thanks for this video. Looking forward to putting one of these together.. just went to the link on the site and one suggestion for the kit to include three other options (tube + spade) and (tube+banana) for those like me who will want tube connector only on the speaker side and banana or spade on the amp side and lastly (Spade + Banana).
We'll tweak the ordering process.
DANNY YOU ARE AWESOME! helping many to find better quality audio in sensible approaches...
Does the rope come with the cable-kit? Great diy idea as usual! :)
It does now.
It would be nice if the end could fit all the conductors into it. When I make cables for my off grid solar system, soldering isn't advisable, hydraulically crimping the ends actually cold welds the conductors to the terminal. If you cut one in half, you can actually see the connector and cable have become one. Solder introduces contamination and corrosion. Not to mention brittleness at the joint, unlikely, but there's a potential for breakage. How many loose connections do techs find in equipment that doesn't even vibrate? Crimping, and correctly with the right dies solves all those issues.
I lost count of how many "THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID" replies were possible throughout this whole vid. 😂
Thanks for all your DIY stuff and all the great videos!
I became a believer back in 2012 when I rolled Chris Venhaus's CAT5 cables. At the time I was using something basic from MonsterCable in a roll-your-own system that included Rod Elliott's P101 MOSFET amp. It sounded decent enough, but when I hooked in the big Venhaus braids I realized I'd only been experiencing a small fraction of what that amp was all about. If I ever get finished with the 8 channels of amplification I'm building right now for an active speaker system I'll be ordering sets of these new cables from Danny. Among other things, they'll save me from another bout of bleeding fingers. :)
I've been using this exact cable in my system years before I ever saw your videos. I used a very flexible fuel tubing to shove down the middle of mine.
Does twine sound more twangy and country than plastic rope? Where can I buy audiophile grade rope?
It’s hilarious how many people talk directly to the main guy and he never responds to anyone but they keep talking lol
He's too busy banking the money from suckers buying hyped cable.
Are solid core cables "better" than equivalent stranded cable for speakers?
Solid is lower resistance and lower noise.
Stranded are more durable for bending and movement but speaker cables done need to be moved around a bunch.
are those kimber ?
No, but very similar.
Building mine right now. Rope feeding is really the easiest part. I have 12ft and it takes 2 min.
I put masking tape to the end in how far I wanted to unwind the cables. After that the separation is important to get best positioning of the conductors. I have banana plugs that fit 8 AWG so I can solder them right in.
Be careful stripping the wires as they are thin individually.
If you guys like it I can make some pictures and post it on the forum.
Has anyone tried welder cable, 200A, fantastic, so much detail, an absolute bitch to terminate though!!!!
I plan on ordering the 24 strand cable, I want as close to a pair of 8ft cables not including the spade connectors I plan to place. After reading the entire thread here, I plan on using the 1/2" cotton rope which Danny says is now included.
1. What length cable shall I order?
2. Danny do you include the teflon tube now? If not,
3. I like the drum stick idea. I know nothing about drum sticks, what diameter and length should I use and where do I buy drumsticks? Amazon?
Thank you all.
FYI, I am a retired electrical engineer previously employed by Hewlett Packard designing precision instrumentation in Colorado. I have been an audiophile for 47 years. I have used Kimber 12tc and 8tc in my systems. I studied the physics behind the multi stranded braided wire and can understand why this can make a difference in sound. I am far passed the discussions of the merits of cable selection and burn in. The greater quality of music I hear with using such cable geometry is unmistakable in my listening experience. Also the products that were designed and manufactured at Loveland Instrument Division in Colorado were powered up, tested, and burned in prior to shipping the product to our customers. And for precision measurement and control, cable matters. So for what it's worth, I say cables matter and burn in is necessary for all audio components.
Danny, I am looking forward to trying one of you upgrade kits for my Wharfedales later this summer. Thanks all for the information in advance. If you don't agree with my ramble here, I don't care.
You'll have to tell us how long you need it.
You can feed the rope through with just about anything. Even a pencil will work.
You can order all of this online as well.
24 strands is terrible, you do realize that the current flows on top of the wire right so more wire means more surface area plus they're easier to manipulate
Link is not working
Try this one: gr-research.com/cables/
Danny, I have to get technical on you here. You mention that separating the conductors decreases the inductance, which with conductors carrying current in opposing directions as in this case, the inductance actually increases with the distance between conductors. The effect is logarithmic not linear, and a doubling of distance has approximately six times the inductance. Also, your use of radar-absorbent material acts as a small capacitor, so you are actually just lowering the roll-off frequency of the naturally occurring 2nd order low-pass filter created by the wires without the "tweaks". This might help in the case of a situation with a high level of EMI like in a city or having an amateur radio operator as a neighbor, but I think that in most cases the effect will be negligible to non-existent. You may disagree of course, but I would like to see some measurements of noise on the output of your power amps with your cables with the tweaks and without them. Also compared to other lower cost cables of similar length and physical positioning relative to other potentially noise inducing cables.
But as a big DIYer myself, I thoroughly believe in building cables yourself, and speakers as well. 👍
Oh, I also have to say I like the new website design, finally see the X-MTMs I'm building. 👍👍
I agree, would love to see some measurements on these especially considering those tweaks
As a math person, I have to ask if this makes sense.
If inductance increases with distance between conductors, then as distance approaches infinity, then so does inductance - which makes no sense.
Also, L = Phi(i)/i, where i is current, and Phi(i) is magnetic flux. Magnetic flux decreases with distance, implying that as distance increases, Phi decreases. As distance approaches infinity, Phi(i) approaches 0, and so does L.
Lastly, I know there are special functions for various types of set ups, but any function used to calculate L, must be equal to the parent function. I.E. L = (some derived function) = Phi(i)/i. If (some derived function) not= Phi(i)/i, then (some derived function) is the wrong function.
Please set me straight if I am wrong.
What about field optimised geometry ones like XLO Electric sell?
@@joshua43214 I have to say that I also struggle with this. In researching the inductance of parallel wires with opposing current direction, the related equations show an increase of inductance with spacing and length, which as you point out would go to infinity at infinite spacing. I look at it this way, which seems more intuitive. If EITHER the spacing OR length goes to infinity, then so will the inductance. The same can be said for resistance. So in practical terms, the resistance and inductance (as well as capacitance) are all affected by the geometry, but the audible effect is what really counts, and this is what really matters of course. Given that the inductance and capacitance of all reasonably designed and constructed cables is such that the effect on audio frequencies is negligible, I am not among the believers in the great differences in the sound of cables.
@@Coneman3 I read the white paper on these cables and it is clear the designer Roger Skoff is just balancing the capacitance and inductance to a hypothetical optimum ratio and using the terms electrostatic and electromagnetic fields in place of capacitance and inductance to sound more high tech. Given that the amount of capacitance and inductance in the short runs of cables commonly used in home audio environments is small, the effect on audible frequencies is so small as to be negligible. And the claimed impact on power cables with 50 or 60 Hz frequencies is just absurd.
first ! Those cables look they mean business. Can't wait for Black Friday . $9.50 a foot of 16 strand is a deal!
Yup! And we have them listed on our site. Check them out. www.gr-research.com/cables.html
@mr do I have made a pair of cables with pants just a little too small and was able to strip wire and fit them through the pants stripped. Maybe not perfect but worked
Hi Danny. I bought rolls of that in bulk as well. Good stuff. Just fyi, it is fake Kimber kable TC series. Made in China. Compare it to Kimber sometime. It shocked me how different it sounds. Neat project@
Что лучше звучит как ститаете? Китай или кимбер?
What were buying a knock off here?
Nice video. I bought some 8tc similar cable from an outside source too, high purity copper and all. It appears to be no different than the Kimber 8tc. Nice soundstage and all. There are a lot of misconceptions in audio land about these types of cable and they are mostly wrong. In the old days it's called folklore everyone tends to repeat. In the 1980s they called it a mantra that's repeated over and over, then after that in the 90s they call it a meme. Back to the non issue. A lot of discussion goes on about how the low inductance of this cable leads to high capacitance which is claimed to damage amplifiers, ie oscillations and so on. You do not have to be an electronics theorist to realize that this is incorrect by just looking at numbers. For example 8tc is rated at 346 pico farads per meter. A 4 meter cable would then have about 1400 pico farads capacitance. Low and behold the speaker crossover has a capacitor (at the beginning?) of typically around let's say 1 micro farads. This only adds 1 micro farads + 0.000346. = 1.000346 microfarads. No significance whatsoever. So if the capacitor is in front of the crossover (not sure) then the amp load from cable to speaker is not an issue. Even so 0.000346 micro farads not significant if you don't even add capacitance. If you figure in relativity, then the amp only experiences the capacitance of the cable and crossover as a single capacitance value. Amps don't have problems with crossovers so why insignificant cable. Resistance and low inductance are the things to look at, with resistance generally not any problem with copper conductor. One last thing, Kimber talks about counterfeits. They never talk about their source or that they have patent rights on the design and material. So it's the Wild West for the consumer. Correctly, they are right when a counterfeit is passed off as Kimber cable which is wrong. Everything else is business as usual. I believe the tc wire is probably sourced from Japan, and a lot of it is shipped to China. Oscillating amp damage from high capacitance cable, some other issue is involved or it's made up by the industry.
I've finished to build two pairs of a similar cable (24-cores) and I would say that low inductance is a thing. Before I had a thick 2-cores cable (just a good one) and that new one beat it in all aspects especially in sound dynamics. This is easy to hear that.
I only have no idea why the rope is needed. And I doubt it's a "pure copper in a teflon"). Looks like a China made (al everything these days) breaded cable for 11 euros/meter (despite they state "OCC pure copper bla-bla-bla"). Nobody needs a pure copper, and no one manufactures a pure copper in mass market quantities. Let's be an adult. An insulation may contain some teflon, or may not. It feels better than PVC, but is far from a "natural" teflon I remember.
It's nice to use "cable pants" and cable sleeves, however if you would like to have it finished like a $200/pair cable, several hours must be spent, and few cables must be assembled before you got all technics and workflows.
Do a blind test on camera, no you won't will you!
We done run through's on that and we're 100%. We are just waiting to get multiple cameras over and set up to film it. We are also bringing in some microphones that we think will allow everyone else to here it as well.
You could use those to jump start a bulldozer
Hi, This is Brian. I couldnt believe you quoted your prices. And then i couldnt believe how reasonable the prices actually were. I remember places selling cable in ads in stereo review magazine. They asked 100 dollars a foot in the 1990s. And some people bought it. Although their problems were with having expensive amplifiers with limited abilities, they reasoned their problems were with the speaker cable. Some foolish people spent thousands on speaker cable and it turned out to be simple high end wire worth only about 30 cents a foot. It always gave the novice audiophile bragging rights because their wire cost more, therefore it was better. So they thought. Anyway, thanks for making an affordable alternative . if someone fails to purchase your kit for 39.95, let them try and top it. Those good connections always wind up being Very expensive. Good Job, Men. Keep it up!!
Great video that helped me make my cables, but I cut 9' lengths of cable and "lost" a foot after I stretched the weave and put the rope inside. Luckily, I needed an 8-9' cable so it worked out. Just know as you open up the cable there will be some shortening.
I am interested in buying the cable. Can you send to india , mumbai. I need 4ft per side of the 24 strand cable.
Yes, and you can order them online: gr-research.com/cables/
Thank you for the great video and showing the flat earth....lol... I am getting both.
Reminds me a song : "Send it to me"
But I'm on a single Duelund awg 12GA test right now. I think it's just & only another highway to hell.
Both could be a nice ticket... or maybe I'm wrong ?
you are wrong bro i have a very high end system and use one pair of 12 awg duelund multy strand tinned copper cotton sleeving after alot of testing with other cables this one is the best by far......
strait not twisted ....
@@shaynakash4222 Thx, read a nice of good things & sound test was promising on YT. Love those meds. So waiting for dispo.
DANNY THANKS BIG TIME FOR THIS VID ON ASSEMBLY OF CABLE . HELPS A LOT IF US FOLKS . THANKS BRO. KIRK'OUT'PEACE
Great video but, does this make any sense for a lower cost audio system, to have cables costing almost as much as the speakers? Would not it be better to invest in better speakers first?
No , it does not make any sense at all..
No, this isn't the place to invest your whole budget. Start with a good set of speakers and a well set up and treated room. But as your system moves up the performance ladder a few hundred dollars for an improvement these offer most people is a bargain.
You made a Fid out of a plastic tube❤
A spool of lamp cord would be easier and better, not to mention a hell of a lot cheaper.
No it wouldn't.
Also 16 to 18 gauge is fine for runs 30 feet or less.
How much does the rope inside reduce the length? if I bought 10 foot of cable and then increased the diameter by inserting the rope, would that not reduce the length?
It does reduce the length. We have noted it on our website.
Great idea for a diy product. After making many cables myself I think is is a bargain.
Another good product Danny. Also you web page improvements look great.
Has it been ventured to braid the leads after the +/- split for termination?
Are the strands all the same or various sizes like Kimber? Regards
Various.
I bought a 8 foot pair of the 16 strand assembled. I run Cary Audio Design Pre, Power, HDCD, and a pair of Revel F-32 speakers. The improvement in sound was not subtle. Greater air, soundstage, and well defined fast bass with greater impact. The litmus test? If I lost these, I would replace them with the same. Thank you Danny:)
You are welcome and thanks for posting feedback.
Hi Steven,
Approximately how much did it run you for the 8' pair. I'm disabled and have to buy them assembled and would like to give these a try.
@@LeoRousseau Gmorn Leo, assembly looked tedious. I opted for assembly. The insertion of the interior rope shortens the length. I think I paid for a ten foot pair which after assembly winds up to be eight foot. I think it was close to $300. You can email for a quote. All of my equipment has been upgraded, except my speaker wires. Im diggin em. Merry Christmas my friend. Danny is a “stand up” guy!
Thanks for the response Steven. Much appreciated!
This was the perfect video at just the right time!
Thank you.
I’ll be in touch.
Measure what you need, then measure again then pull out a calculator, scratch your head and go to BestBuy and get the generic 12 gauge stuff.
Then scratch your head and wonder why it sounds so bad.
Danny, you have me very interested in this upgrade. I have used very heavy gauge Monster cable in a bi-wired mode between a Denon receiver and a pair of Snell Type D tower speakers for over 20 years and never gave it a thought. My question is would bi-wiring with your cable be an improvement over just going with a pair of your 24 lead wire cables? If I went with a bi-wire setup would I need to use the same cable for both leads or could I use the smaller cable for one lead (Tweeter lead?). Thanks, Ken
It will sound better if used the whole cable and did not split it up into a Bi-wired cable. Then replace both sets of binding posts with one set of tube connectors.
Not gonna go down the cable rabbit hole debate, but I will say that when I made my own wire, did I appreciate the fact it was time consuming and a PITA and I appreciated the costs of reasonably priced speaker wire with quality connectors, and such, so ignoring the claims of superior audio, if one wants to do the labor, this is a good deal for the $ for decent wire.
Can I put RCA connectors on these?
Can you please do a video showing why some of these cables cost thousands of dollars. It's crazy. Thank you
I just finished building a pair of these GR-Research cables for a customer and have a healthy respect for why retail versions are so expensive. Partly lack of competition, combined with fact that they are highly labor intensive to assemble. 24 strands per end x 4 ends for pair of cables =96 ends to strip, which each require at least two stripping efforts because of the length of stripped cable needed= 192 end stripping actions. Depending upon your connections, you may be sorting and separating individual strands, with multiple solder operations per connector. Tube connectors are the best performing option but also most labor intensive with this set. All said and done it could be 6 to 8 hours + of labor, if you are performing the high-quality, appearance-perfection matters type of assembly that customers demand. Sure it could be done faster but that extra speed is usually the difference between something that looks DIY vs something that looks professional. 6.5 foot pairs of Danny's 24ga wire costs are 15ft x $13.95=$210. +$39 for terminations= $249. A retailer then adds a skilled labor cost of $50/hr x 6hrs for additional $300. That's $549 before marketing budget, website management, facility costs, and profit markup. That's why Kimber charges $692 for the same length pair. I personally believe that the GR-research cable is superior to the Kimber cable version as the GR kit adds the benefits of the inserted rope opening up the conductors, and the ESR shielding tape. It's a better product for approx $250 in product cost vs $690 for the Kimber assembled version. Even if you had to pay someone to assemble the GR kit you would still be far ahead in cost, and have a better performing product. No contest.
Are the speaker cables sold in pairs for $13.50 or singles for $13.50?
The price is $13.75 a foot and includes the rope core.
I built two 6’ runs of Danny’s 24 conductor speaker wires. They caused my Schiit Aegir to go into protection as soon as I plugged them into the amp. The wires worked fine with my NAD and McIntosh amps. Strange. I wrote Danny asking about this.
@@helmut3356 something to investigate. Thank you.
What did you and Danny figure out?
bump
Have you checked if the cable has a short?
@@syhi7971it's not a short naims early amplifiers did the same thing with some cables I believe Kimber braided may have been one, they had their own cable to suit the characteristics of their amps NAC A5 I think it was called it's either reactance or capacitance, the latter I think
Assembled a pair of 16-strand cables a couple weeks ago! They made a bigger difference than I honestly expected and it was noticable within just a couple seconds. Using tube connectors & bananas. They really added a lot of depth to the soundstage & even more clarity vs my previous pair of cheap zip-cord that also used the same connections.
10/10 would recommend if your looking for a great sounding cable. 👍
Thanks, Danny!
Subjectively speaking, what difference inserting polyethylene rope instead of Teflon tubing makes on sound?
Measurably it slightly lowers capacitance. Audibly it does some things in the sound stage.
@@dannyrichie9743 😂😆🤣
@@dannyrichie9743 Probably blackens it....
@@poserwanabe dielectric constant of teflon 2.1, polyethylene 2.5; he's got it upside down
@@paulb4661
"Audiophile speaker cable"
🤣😂😆😂🤣😆🤣🤣😂
Brilliant product
Danny, you need to let your viewers know that if they need a 12 feet cable, 16 strand and insert the 9/16” rope that comes with order, that you will end up with a 9’-6” cable NOT 12 feet.
Now my cable is a 1 foot short and should it been a foot longer. Waste of money
The real waste of money was buying into this snake-oil to begin with.
We send it out with the rope now and the rope is only 1/2" diameter. For a 12 foot run the rope will reduce it a little more than a foot and a little less than two feet depending on how tight you pull it down on it. We also note that on the website.
@@Clobercow1 The earth isn't flat. Cables matter, and this one is a real bargain.
I find much of what Danny has to say valuable. However I do take exception to his use of the term "Flat Earther."
A person who believes in a flat earth does so because they distrust science and rely solely on their powers of observation and their ability to reason with their observations. They look at the surface of an ocean or large lake and it appears flat, so therefor the earth must be flat. This is irrespective of the science.
People who listen to systems and hear differences which are not demonstrable using measurements, only through the listener's powers of observations seem more similar to "flat earthers" than those who use both their powers of observation and the science.
Having said that I will admit to the possibility that there may be more to setting up a system well than what is currently measurable. If this is the case, I would think that Danny and others who hear these differences would be expending much of their resources to find ways of measuring them. The first person who can develop a system which can reliably measure the "X-factor" and provide a tool to be used in system setup which takes the X-factor into consideration will have both accolades and cash showered on them.
I am afraid that will be a long, long wait. Joining an audio club would be more realistic. It is a journey, and you have to start somewhere. It sounds like you want it all on a silver platter, yet you don't believe in any of it. You will never understand/believe until you experience it yourself.
@@jamespeck276 I want nothing on a silver platter. I spend many hours working with my systems and find the efforts enjoyable. I will admit to being an empiricist, and ascribe to the platitude "seeing (hearing) is believing." I have not seen nor experienced a cable (speaker or interconnect) making a difference in the sound of any systems I have heard. As a true agnostic, I don't discount that it exists and that my hearing may not be good enough, the systems I've listened to refined enough or the rooms I 've been in tuned well enough to hear a difference.
BTW I recently read an argument against a flat earth that made me chuckle. The reasoning goes like this; If the earth were flat, capitalists would have hotels built and cruises to the edge of the earth. There would be giant swings where for $100 you could swing out over the edge and look down.
@@paulstearns93 I, personally, can't wait until Elon Musk shots off to Mars with his "friends".
If you have never experienced an imaging system that you get with dipole/planars, then give this teaser a try...super cheap and 60 day return if you hate it. It is far from perfect, but it just might surprise you. Big amp is preferred, but not totally necessary.
www.magnepan.com/model_lrs
www.stereophile.com/content/magnepan-lrs-loudspeaker-0
Play with this thing for 60 days and you will learn about sound stage depth, width, height, imaging, your room, speaker placement, listening position, room dampening, transparency, definition, etc.
Start out 3-4 feet from wall...up to 5 or six...experiment...straight ahead, toe in. Super light, put tape on floor..Keep speakers within 1/2 inch difference from back wall.
Form a triangle with your speakers and go from there. The LRS instruction manual has some good tips..but still experiment.
In the setup see how much bass you can squeeze out with different placements and seating distances and positions in the room. Play around in the room. I prefer tweeters on the inside, but experiment. Play and live with it for awhile.... and then if you have a sub, hook it up, hopefully it is adjustable, set xover at 100 hz or lower. As always, experiment.
This is all a lot of work, but enjoyable and worth it for some. If you like it, then enjoy it, or it may be just the beginning...if this is not fun for you, then the hell with it I say. After all, most of the fun is in the journey. If you have box speakers up against the wall I doubt you will hear speaker wire difference. Good Luck.
@@jamespeck276 My main speakers are Maggie 2.7 QRs, my rears are MMGs. I have designed and built OB speakers and built GR Research's OB subs which I use with the Maggie 2.7 QRs. Right at the moment I have tweets on the outside, but I have only had the 2.7s for a few months and haven't finished fiddling with them.
I recently picked up a pair of .7s and am currently building a pair of stands which I designed and are unlike anything else I have seen. I hope to have one ready for testing in a day or two.
An ancient Buddhist saying, "If you meet the Buddha on the road kill him." When I apply this to folks like Danny Ritchie, I try to understand what they are saying, filter everything they says through my experience/understanding of sound and integrate everything which makes sense to me in my "evolved" understanding.
But yes fun is the ultimate goal.
@@paulstearns93 Great setup. Are you hi passing the amp feeding the Maggies so they are relieved of the lowest bass...increased clarity and no muddiness when they are hi passed. I can tell you a simple fix.
I bought a diy braided cable similar to this but it’s bundled solid core wires (4 per conductor) twisted. Amazing bass and sound staging - but was like being shouted at and a little ‘Dry’. Loved the dynamics but yea, harsh. So I’d be very Interested in this. I suspect the fact each individual core is insulated and braided, along with the rope, makes a big difference.
amazing video and awesome renovation of your webpage congratulations and greetings from argentina!
FYI, the "buy here" link is dead
Try this one: gr-research.com/cables/
Things that affect soundstage >>
The recording engineer
The speakers
The speaker placement
The room itself.
Please explain in detail how a speaker cable can affect soundstage ??
The cable is no different that any other piece of gear carrying the signal. And it can really effect the sound stage.
@@dannyrichie9743 exactly how??
@@poserwanabe The sound stage can be effected across the board. Layer, placement, depth, width, and space between and around instruments are all effected.
@@dannyrichie9743 well I've been professionally involved in audio and electrical engineering for over 40yrs and I'm calling BS, you haven't answered the question....peace.
@@poserwanabe You can call BS, but you'd be mistaken. 40 years in audio and you still haven't learned the basics? All of those spatial cues that make up all those sound stage effects are found in the very top end. Haven't you ever notice how the systems with really high resolution and low noise floors have the best imaging? And the systems with low resolution and smearing really lack in the imaging department? Well all of that RFI and EMI really effects the top end where all that information is. And will you filter out the interference everything really opens up.
Whoo! All I gotta say is thanks! This is really fun when it’s affordable! Still have the flat world there! Hehe! Just wanted to say you must use the right kinda crimper. Or the crimp will be all messed up.
What is the purpose of the rope?
It changes the capacitance of the cable and how it rejects RFI and EMI. And it improves the sound.
This approach to why cables make a difference is such an eye opener. From this angle it now makes sense.
I still can’t stand companies that try to say their cables have a direction and it’s just regular cable runs (you all might know who I’m talking about and if not, take a small quest in audio and you’ll figure it out).
But, after talking about field effects and winding canceling out inductive intrusions and other sorts of EM/FI the approach is valid.
Thank you for making this vid and also providing a channel for us to get our hands on the raw materials.
No way in hell am I paying a grand for some cables when we can do a little work and grab the mats for $40. Thank you! Doing god’s work lol
I always buy Blue Jeans cables. Made in Seattle. Speaker wire is all 12 ga, and 10 gauge US made Belden stock made with optional sonic welded termination. Very good wire without any pretense of audiophile one way or another. Same with their interconnects. All Belden stock and all at very good prices.
g̶o̶d̶'̶s̶ the devils
Just finished putting some of these together. Using a 1' long piece of dowel about the diameter of a pencil taped to the rope made getting the rope go through the cable really easy. Stripping and twisting all the strands to get good symmetry and length uniformity was way more time consuming, (and way more of a PITA ). Also none of the six strand twists, (i did 16 of them) fit inside the tube supplied connectors without the help of a dremel tool. Looking forward to seeing if these will deliver a sonic improvement over my old Virtual Dynamics Nite spade terminated cables.
any difference?
@@Canadian_Eh_I I stupidly assumed the tube terminations would work fine w/ my speakers and amp...they might work, but they seem pretty loose in the binding posts, so I'm going to cut them off and start over w/ KLEI banana terminations.
I am genuinly confused about even the most basic of materials used here.
1. You say it's teflon insulated, but I read/hear polyethylene which is not teflon, and PET does not have the properties of Teflon. So what gives?
2. You are adding some poly?-cotton?-nylon? rope. What the actual is going on with that? Cotton nylon mix? What? Could you clarify?
3. ESR sheilding? Equivalent Series Resistance sheild? Agressive Radar absorbing?? I don't even know what to say, I don't even know where to even start unpacking that.
4. What kind of solder? What flux? What alloy is in it?
I want to build a high level subwoofer cable for my Rel with low inductance and high impedance. Which geometry would you recommend? ( 3 wire: 1-GND / L channel /R channel
Another great video. Thanks Danny
Good gosh! Watching Danny play with his big white cables is the perfect combination of listening to women’s Wimbledon up loud and watching Japanese tentacle…”stuff”. “Get it good and hot and give it a good squeeze…it’s got a little titt-ee on the end…”
I love it. And, by the way, Newton’s laws still cover 90 percent or better of life on a flat planet, even when it’s really round,. (wink…and ducks and runs for cover!)
I'm not an audiophile. Thank God. My whole estate-sale-find system cost me less than two of these cables would cost. I've considered adding tube connectors to my AR P428 PS speaker connects. Those would cost about half of what I have in the whole thing. I'm glad I just like stereos and am not a 'phile. I may buy a speaker kit, from GR in the future, with which I will have to use Amazon speaker wire. I have financial limitations on my hobbies. Audiophilia isn't in the cards, praise Jesus.
Im thinking of making of making my own diy premium speaker wire for a SVS 5.1 system. Can I twist two 14 gauge wire for the neg and two 14 guage for the positive. I plan on using Monoprice Access Series 14AWG CL2 Rated 4-Conductor Speaker Wire. Will this be to thick to run to my satellite speakers? The longest run is 20' to 25' (rears) 3' to 6' (fronts). Any response is appreciated - Thanks
Bought the 24 strand 2x 8ft. Mostly after reading the reviews of this cable. Just curious how they compare to my audioquest rocket 88 biwire.
Can it be used to my sourround or to my headphones? Missing what the little cable are used for lenght of the cable to the speaker. Is it for b&w or beolab90?
is it chinese?
Yes
@@AudioheavenDenmark this to me is a problem... a NON audio related problem.. rewarding china for stealing ray kimbers design and selling it to people in the very country where they stole the design from and out from under ray by offering it at a steep discount and then getting americans to peddle it for them.... hmmmmmmmm
I've made a handful of speaker cables, and boy is it time consuming.
Hi. Thanks for this video
One question, whats the rope for?
Kind Regards
Hi. Thank you for the great video. Do you have any comments on pairing sprout 100 with Wharfdale Denton or Linton? Will these cables be too much for that setup?
Do both cables need o be the same length? The run from my amp to one of the speakers is about 10 feet and the run to the other speaker is about 25 feet because I have to run it around the room to avoid running it across the floor.
Hey guys you can go to Amazon and get a roll of 10 gauge speaker wire for like $40. I personally use 16 gauge to save money though.
Danny, thks for the rope into the cable, it is really a simple tweak to already a great cable, quieter and more details come through, I reckon it’s at the level of Kimber Select series .
what is a the fastest cable? the 18-th_or the 24-th,........thx, for house music or hardstyle
how to any audio cable interfarance masured on pc ? on graph like that
Is 16 strand okay for bookshelf speakers.?
How much is shipping to Europe.?
Do you have any thoughts on power cables?
I'll do a series on those soon.
@@dannyrichie9743 I believe in your work and your analogies are good. Radio frequencies aren’t in the audio range maybe, the principles remain the same and those of us with very revealing systems can hear a difference between lamp cord and “expensive” cable if in no other observation than the presence of the artist being in the room with you (if the recording was done well).