I gave a stuck mount inside a Huxwrk QD 7.62 can. The mount is a flush fit, and there is nothing to grab. I mounted the can on a Saiga, 7.62 x 39. I purchased an alternate Huxwrk mount that has several holes in the base. These holes allow the mount to index on any FSB with the spring detent. I am working with my LGS to resolve this issue. We plan on drilling two to three holes in the flat on the mount base. These holes will allow the use of a spanner type wrench matched with the holes. This allows a positive connection to the mount and the can already has existing wrench flats. I will keep you posted after we drill the holes next week. I will also send pictures for your review. I did lubricate the mount threads where they mate with the can. I am not sure if using Anti-Seize would have prevented this problem. Drilling the holes in the mount flat to attach the two to three pin spanner wrench seems like the best option. Do you have any suggestions?
@@colbyc.6698 they can yea and they deff play a part in the flow characteristics and therefore can either positively or negatively change how a can sounds (loudness)
Wish plan B was designed with left hand threads like the new Dead Air Xeno mount. That would be perfection! Never would have to worry about the muzzle device getting stuck when taking the suppressor off.
luckily reardens combination of surface finishes, additional taper shielding in the mount and just a general higher degree of quality control have pretty much eliminated the issues when used properly you would find on normal plan b or a or surefire etc
@@silencerstudent9381 are you saying that the Atlas is a superior implementation of Plan B or that the combo of the Atlas and these other MD options mitigate the issues of the CB getting stuck in the Plan B?
@@silencerstudent9381 so this would be applicable to the other MDs like Liberty as well so long as you’re using an Atlas? I am leaning that way as I don’t want to fuss with shims.
Rocketted Cherry Bomb muzzle device has been stuck 4 times in my suppressor - it was after full auto on a 7.62x39 AR47 system and blazing hot. No way to get it out without complete tear down of suppressor - total pain! I switched to Rearden's devices, and so far have not had it come off. However if it did come off, it has the hex lug on the outside of the can that I can access to get it out of the suppressor.
I have the cherry and it got stuck with the q whistle brake . Lock tight the cherry bomb let dry for a day or two then separate. If all else fail apply heat .the cherry is great but not thought throughly . Great video very informative.
ACTUALLY it should not get stuck unless it at some point didnt seal right. there are two generations too . look for the video on the master post that talks about stuck mounts/muzzle devices and then the other i just recently did about the plan b family. all are in the mounts section
What do you recommend for somebody who never wants to shoot unsuppressed? I have a 300blk with cherry bomb/trash panda setup and a 556 with cherry bomb/energetic arms vox s with rearden atlas mount. Does then basically minimalist thread protector muzzle device protect my baffles as well as cherry bomb or regular rearden device? Is is louder suppressed?
basically as far as the suppressor and gun knows they are direct threaded, the difference is you have a quick easy way to remove your can and or reattach as well as a tapered surface to register on
Got a Liberty Baby Bell for a form 1 that I am finally getting around to planning. Any ideas on where to source an adapter for a D-cell can(1 7/16-20tpi)?
Holy shit dude.. this is what I have been looking for 🤣 As I've been waiting for my Wolfman I went a bought dead airs Keymo but my God do they add weight. At the moment I just want to suppress my PCC GHM9 and some times my AR 15 On my GHM9 the micro break looks stupid AF lol and I just don't like the unbalanced feel I get when I ratchet the Keymo with the blast shield. I could only imagine what it would feel like with the Wolfman attached to it 0.o
@@silencerstudent9381 haha yup thanks. Just waiting for them to release the Atlas that has the treads for the Wolfman. Unfortunately dead air didn't stick to the what the standard was for the wolf man 🥲
@@silencerstudent9381 just to let you know I pulled the trigger and bought the Mini and Atlas so I can get my jmac customs blast deflector on while I wait for my Wolfman to go on parole and hopefully before that rearden releases the Atlas for the wolfmans thread. Also I'll have to pick up thier single port brake for my 5.56 and 300BLK. Finally I get the look I wanted on my GHM9 and I would be able to just swap suppressor from PCC to rifles with out having to swap the suppressors QD plate at the range. Dude once again thank you for this video and showing me this great thinking company.
I gave a stuck mount inside a Huxwrk QD 7.62 can. The mount is a flush fit, and there is nothing to grab. I mounted the can on a Saiga, 7.62 x 39. I purchased an alternate Huxwrk mount that has several holes in the base. These holes allow the mount to index on any FSB with the spring detent. I am working with my LGS to resolve this issue. We plan on drilling two to three holes in the flat on the mount base. These holes will allow the use of a spanner type wrench matched with the holes. This allows a positive connection to the mount and the can already has existing wrench flats. I will keep you posted after we drill the holes next week. I will also send pictures for your review. I did lubricate the mount threads where they mate with the can. I am not sure if using Anti-Seize would have prevented this problem. Drilling the holes in the mount flat to attach the two to three pin spanner wrench seems like the best option. Do you have any suggestions?
I gave a stuck mount inside a Huxwrk QD 7.62 can. The mount is a flush fit, and there is nothing to grab. I mounted the can on a Saiga, 7.62 x 39.
I purchased an alternate Huxwrk mount that has several holes in the base. These holes allow the mount to index on any FSB with the spring detent.
I am working with my LGS to resolve this issue. We plan on drilling two to three holes in the flat on the mount base. These holes will allow the use of a spanner type wrench matched with the holes. This allows a positive connection to the mount and the can already has existing wrench flats.
I will keep you posted after we drill the holes next week. I will also send pictures for your review.
I did lubricate the mount threads where they mate with the can. I am not sure if using Anti-Seize would have prevented this problem. Drilling the holes in the mount flat to attach the two to three pin spanner wrench seems like the best option.
Do you have any suggestions?
MAN SORRY DIDNT SEE THIS TILL NOW, did you get it out?
Do different muzzle devices change the tone of silencers?
@@colbyc.6698 they can yea and they deff play a part in the flow characteristics and therefore can either positively or negatively change how a can sounds (loudness)
Thanks for the reply
What is the NAME of these new attachments???
Wish plan B was designed with left hand threads like the new Dead Air Xeno mount. That would be perfection! Never would have to worry about the muzzle device getting stuck when taking the suppressor off.
luckily reardens combination of surface finishes, additional taper shielding in the mount and just a general higher degree of quality control have pretty much eliminated the issues when used properly you would find on normal plan b or a or surefire etc
@@silencerstudent9381 are you saying that the Atlas is a superior implementation of Plan B or that the combo of the Atlas and these other MD options mitigate the issues of the CB getting stuck in the Plan B?
@@illestdomer2005 all of the above
@@silencerstudent9381 so this would be applicable to the other MDs like Liberty as well so long as you’re using an Atlas? I am leaning that way as I don’t want to fuss with shims.
Rocketted Cherry Bomb muzzle device has been stuck 4 times in my suppressor - it was after full auto on a 7.62x39 AR47 system and blazing hot. No way to get it out without complete tear down of suppressor - total pain! I switched to Rearden's devices, and so far have not had it come off. However if it did come off, it has the hex lug on the outside of the can that I can access to get it out of the suppressor.
exactly and there will be a video coming with more info about this topic to the patreon
Love the new intro
Agreed
Hey sir have you ever experienced a suppressor bulge using a Rearden single port break?
any brake can potentially do this with enough rounds shot , end of the day a jet of hot gasses is hitting an area over and over again.
I have the cherry and it got stuck with the q whistle brake . Lock tight the cherry bomb let dry for a day or two then separate. If all else fail apply heat .the cherry is great but not thought throughly .
Great video very informative.
ACTUALLY it should not get stuck unless it at some point didnt seal right. there are two generations too . look for the video on the master post that talks about stuck mounts/muzzle devices and then the other i just recently did about the plan b family. all are in the mounts section
Where can we find the previous videos of you metering all the different brakes and flash hiders? I can’t find them on your playlist
PATREON.COM/SILENCERSTUDENT MASTER POST MUZZLE DEVICE SECTION
This episode is one of you most relevant. I’m so glad i did not invest in the Q/ CB system.
Plan a is where its at if you don't wanna deal with all this tolerance nonsense.
This is a big ol tease for me to become patron 😂
youll enjoy it. watch the back ground video if curious
What do you recommend for somebody who never wants to shoot unsuppressed? I have a 300blk with cherry bomb/trash panda setup and a 556 with cherry bomb/energetic arms vox s with rearden atlas mount. Does then basically minimalist thread protector muzzle device protect my baffles as well as cherry bomb or regular rearden device? Is is louder suppressed?
basically as far as the suppressor and gun knows they are direct threaded, the difference is you have a quick easy way to remove your can and or reattach as well as a tapered surface to register on
For the comp ones do you have to set it a certain way ? If so do you use regular shims like on a regular comp ?
rearden ships muzzle devices with washers for timing so you dont have to go buy something extra
Awesome vid, the liberty is going to work perfect on my cross.
Good luck!
So the only complaint is you don't use it properly?
Got a Liberty Baby Bell for a form 1 that I am finally getting around to planning. Any ideas on where to source an adapter for a D-cell can(1 7/16-20tpi)?
REARDEN ATLAS IN THAT THREAD
@@silencerstudent9381 Ah, than you very much for the speedy reply. Have your latest video on standby to watch.
I just picked up the rearden for my SIG Rattler.
cool video. hope you asked NFA review channel to use his intro.
thank god it wasnt his to allow in the first place
And i just bought a Q cherry yesterday. Shucks
always next time
Do you have a video on checking bore alignment?
nope. channel is less then a year old. but suppose we should make one haha. fyi much of the content is on patreon is well.
Would love to see either of these threaded 1/2-36 and bored for a 9mm.
What do you think is the most effective baffles type for lower decibels?
what application?> centerfire rifle? dino sauceco
@@silencerstudent9381 9mm. I want to make an mp5sd can as short as possible as quiet as possible
Do you know if the bottle rocket or whistle tip fit on these muzzle devices
yup
yup
Rocksett is NOT “permanent”.
You can put your parts in water overnight. Yup.Rocksett is ultimately water soluable.
I’ve tested it.
correct
It's not a standard shape for a socket, but it's the same pattern. You should probably try it. Lmao 🤣
Wish these had reverse threads
cherry bomb "socket size" is literally a 1/2 inch socket...
and is inside the suppressor.
Hey, You don't need a special tool to remove the cherry bomb. You should know that....
a crecent wrench works pretty well
@@silencerstudent9381 ... Rtfm dude.
Jam nut method...
Holy shit dude.. this is what I have been looking for 🤣
As I've been waiting for my Wolfman I went a bought dead airs Keymo but my God do they add weight.
At the moment I just want to suppress my PCC GHM9 and some times my AR 15
On my GHM9 the micro break looks stupid AF lol and I just don't like the unbalanced feel I get when I ratchet the Keymo with the blast shield.
I could only imagine what it would feel like with the Wolfman attached to it 0.o
glad this helped. thats y i try to make these vidoes. thanks!
@@silencerstudent9381 haha yup thanks. Just waiting for them to release the Atlas that has the treads for the Wolfman.
Unfortunately dead air didn't stick to the what the standard was for the wolf man 🥲
@@silencerstudent9381 just to let you know I pulled the trigger and bought the Mini and Atlas so I can get my jmac customs blast deflector on while I wait for my Wolfman to go on parole and hopefully before that rearden releases the Atlas for the wolfmans thread. Also I'll have to pick up thier single port brake for my 5.56 and 300BLK.
Finally I get the look I wanted on my GHM9 and I would be able to just swap suppressor from PCC to rifles with out having to swap the suppressors QD plate at the range.
Dude once again thank you for this video and showing me this great thinking company.
For a channel about suppressors, that is a loud stupid intro
i get constant compliments on the intro
I’ve sent ya a message on instagram my friend! Hoping you might be able to help me with some measurement comparisons!!
I gave a stuck mount inside a Huxwrk QD 7.62 can. The mount is a flush fit, and there is nothing to grab. I mounted the can on a Saiga, 7.62 x 39.
I purchased an alternate Huxwrk mount that has several holes in the base. These holes allow the mount to index on any FSB with the spring detent.
I am working with my LGS to resolve this issue. We plan on drilling two to three holes in the flat on the mount base. These holes will allow the use of a spanner type wrench matched with the holes. This allows a positive connection to the mount and the can already has existing wrench flats.
I will keep you posted after we drill the holes next week. I will also send pictures for your review.
I did lubricate the mount threads where they mate with the can. I am not sure if using Anti-Seize would have prevented this problem. Drilling the holes in the mount flat to attach the two to three pin spanner wrench seems like the best option.
Do you have any suggestions?