As a retired engineer with limited knowledge about car engine strips, I am so glad Ive seen a number of unbiased videos including this one about the 'award winning' 1.0litre ford ecoboost engines. My Take:- what on earth were Ford thinking when they designed such a fatally flawed piece of machinery ???? wet belts inside the sump that when they begin to wear, readily clog the whole works up????? without multiple oil changes ?????? I therefore would not have any vehicle with that 'piece of crap' for a motor inside it so, Im glad I've watched a number of youtube videos about this crappy engine, pointing out the real issues, over and over with it So, thanks for taking the time to film this.
Thanks for the comment it's greatly appreciated. I didn't realize this was an award winning engine. Must have been before issues started to become apparent. If they had fitted it with a timing chain it would likely have a better reputation. I assume it costs more to put a chain on it over a belt. . . . . . I'm with you there, wouldn't want to own another car with that engine powering it.
@@Papa77sGarage yep it won major awards all across europe around 2012. keep up the good work. Id love to know whether proper car mechanics think any of these small 1 litre 3 pot engines are actually well designed and, are any good at all. advice appreciated
Just to make things clear - This engine has been tortured with lack of oil changes and the buildup in the pickup is particles from the timingbelt. YOU need to keep these engines in order with frequent oil changes, as this problem is because of contaminated oil that breaks down the timingbelt and clogs up the pickup and starves the engine... Always use the Castrol Ford spec oil and using thicker oil will also be a no no because of vvt, and the viscosity is made for this engine for a reason..
I know this, first thing I did was check the service history and it was 35,000 miles without a service. Also the guy I bought it off had apparently had it remapped to 160ish bhp and at 3 years old had already needed a new turbo. I'm well aware this engine has been abused so thanks for telling me what I already know.
@@Papa77sGarage Yeah i know you were getting it running - But the engine has already suffered from the neglect, 35000 miles without a oil change must also be a record.. Did you change the timingbelt before flipping it..?
@@martinrasmussen8745all I did was clean the oil pick up and then change the oil and filter. It then went to We Buy Any Car.com and they paid me a tidy profit. I wouldn't dream of flipping it on to a regular member of the public. I couldn't take their money knowing that I'd been picking chunks of metal from the sump. It would have needed a reconditioned engine before I even thought about doing that.
@@Papa77sGarage I Agree.... But i would be sad to own this - not only because of the worn belt, but the wear on the engine must have been quite bad... But these engines are a expensive lessons learned when oil changes go too far and ppl rarely want to spens the money on extra oil changes when needed.. Along with coolant issues and leaking coolant on turbo's they are pretty prone to fail in other aspects too..
My mums 1L with 58k miles exact same issue, it's with Ford getting its repairs done. So sad 2.7k on this bs..we were planning to service it soon since we just brought it in November
Great video, I managed to clean my pump, by following your guide, Took about 12 hours in total to complete but well worth it considering no garages wanted to touch it
thecarlovers. channel Luckily the car was close to home when the oil pressure warning came on, So no long term damage :) Its such a pain to have to almost take the engine apart just to remove the sump haha Without your video I don’t think I would of had a clue where to start, So it’s appreciated 👍🏼
Hi mate this video is great step by step. Im doing this on my mums car, turns out that Ford weren't servicing it properly the oil filter was old and rusted and the cabin filter was stock after 5 years so i'm taking charge of servicing it. Great video and explanations man thanks very much 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words. I don't blame you for serving it yourself. I imagine it would be hard to trust someone else to do it now after that experience.
Excellent and interesting vlog, I have an ecosport for the mrs with only 18k miles but when oil change due soon I will probably use Westway oils….i use Westway in my van which seems very good and reviews are also extremely good, kind regards to you and everyone out there….Mark from Billericay 😀👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
wrong engine oil or oil change too late will destroy the timing belt. then you have the problem with the oil pressure and the clogged oil pump. your timing belt still okay?
Hi! Nice video. Maybe you know, which distance between the oil pump suction and the bottom of the sump? I would like to inspect the oil mesh by endoscope to using a hole for the drain plug.
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately its not something I measured the distance of but hopefully there is enough room to get the endoscope around the corner.
Excellent video and life saver @Papa 77s Garage ! I have just taken my oil filter out and it was all gunged up same ,, only thing is i took the pump apart also and i am not sure i have it back together again,, would you have any idea where i can find a site that strips the oil pump and rebuild it?! many thanks and appreciate your video!
Thanks for the kind words. As for another video I'm unsure. I didn't strip my pump down so never needed to search. Hopefully you find something useful 🤞
Had the same problem 6 months ago and pump was replaced by a garage with new one, plus a new pressure solenoid valve and oil/filter. 6 months down the line and the turbo's failed. NO oil getting to it. Checked the oil feed pipe which is clear. Oil pressure warning light still goes out ok. Blockage must be between the filter and turbo oil inlet pipe but no idea where or how to remove it.
Mine has 90K on it and done 5-7K oil changes myself.. But never had any oilpressure errors yet, but for sure you need to keep oil changes frequent. This smuldering timingbelt thing is normal and annoying to see happening.. Guess i need to be on my back to get this looked at to in the near future..
@@rafael6693 It's a timingbelt and not a chain.. The timingbelt is a concern and if you go this long as stated 35000 miles it's already fucked.. The timingbelt will be alright if you keep using the Castrol and change the oil often.. I've seen engines with normal oil change intervals being fine and sump clean, so either you need to do the oil changes freuently or if you do long trips most of the time the oil does not get contaminated as much. But on these engines i would not go longer than 10Kmiles and preferable 5-7Kmiles.. Oil is cheap - Engines ain't..
@@martinrasmussen8745 yeah i meant time belt sry. It is always important to put the oil that the manufacturer says to put. My car is having this exact problem and the mechanic said a lot of ford and peugeots with this belt are having this problems.he is waiting for the new timing chain to arrive, he already changed the oil pump and the solenoid that controls the oil pressure. But he said that only after turning on the engine we will see if everything is alright because basically after this oil light appears that engine parts are not being lubrificated which means the engine is probably gone. I parked the car 30 seconds after this oil light appears but we never know it is probably more then sufficient, I didn’t hear any noise in this interval. He said he made the diagnosis and said probably everything is fine before he changed anything, but it is weird because he had to turn the engine on before ( at least i assume) lol
@@rafael6693 Can't say if your engine has problems with lack of oil or pressure drop because of the timingbelt clogging up the pickup.. But the severe cases will mean a new engine or your lucky that it has not starved the too much engine from lack of lubrication.. It can jump timing if the belt is worn enough and as you don't have any excessive noises you might be fine.. Normal timingbelt changes will only need the belts for the cams/crank and also the belt for the oil pump - More severe cases it would be a good idea to change the oil pump as well.. PSA has already change their intervals for timingbelts, but they are some what easier to change than the Fords...
@@SilverSeeker232 solely used the specific Castrol oil. My timingbelt was changed and it was toothless on 15% of the belt. I think the culprit was the hpfp and i changed that out later on..
Hi. Do you know if the oil pump belt needs to be changed when replacing the timing belt, tensioners and pulleys? I can’t find any time interval to replace the oil pump belt.
I would advise changing it, it's hardly any extra work at all if the timing belt is being done. It's also not likely to cost all that much either and will give you peace of mind.
@@joshdd1 I'm pretty sure that's the only way you can replace it. I think the oil pump belt sits behind the timing belt, that's why I advise changing them both together. There should be enough room to get the pump belt off with the sump in place however I've never actually changed one so I could be wrong. I do know my boss has recently bought the equipment to do them and it doesn't seem as straight forward as a usual timing belt. We haven't had one in for replacement yet but I'm waiting for the day.
Hi, this video showed me that my fiesta is most probably concerned. I don't have oil red light but I have ratteling when engine is heating. And I have this issue even if I bought it brand new in 2013 did oil change every 20.000km or 1 year. Anyhow, I'm removing my oil sump today and I'm facing an issue: I cannot figure out how to remove the heatshield. On the front I'm blocked by A/C radiator and fitting, on top, the heatshield is blocked by the turbocharger and every directions the sensor at turbocharger outlet does not allow to move a lot. @Papa77 or anybody else; do you have a tip or advice? Thanks!
If I remember correctly there was some 10mm and 8mm bolts. I think I had to remove the oxygen sensor from the downpipe also. With yours being a 2013 it is going to be a Mk7 fiesta whereas this one is a 2017 mk 8. Now I haven't compared the two side by side so can't say for sure whether they are the same process of removal but they will be similar. I hope this helps.
Thanks for your answer @Papa 77! For the heat-shield, I removed the oxygen sensor (the one on top of the exhaust). The only thing is: get a 22mm wrench ^^ I had only an adjustable wrench + WD40 + rubber hammer it worked but it could be better with the right tools :) There was almost no difference between your 2017 and my 2013. Except maybe some differences related to right/left steering wheel (I'm french ;) ). Before I explain my experience, I let you know that my oil inlet was 100% clean.... so my problem is somewhere else. Maybe the oil pump solenoid, I saw video on potential problems on it. (french translation at the bottom / traduction française plus bas) Since I have (almost) finish I share my experience and differences to your video: -Accessory belt plastic cover: I removed it completely for full access to the 3rd blot of the A/C compressor. For this, you have to remove 2 additional 8mm bolts of the cover located below the turbocharger (inlet and outlet). For (way) better access: remove the right hand front beam it takes 2 bolts T30 + a plastic screw; then remove the flexible hose that goes from turbocharger outlet down to the heat exchange (7mm collar). Then finally there is a plastic bracket for the previous hose and another one. To remove it you have to remove 1st the "L shaped" plastic part that is fitted to the turbocharger inlet. Once you have done the above; the plastic cover can be removed by the bottom. -Accessory belt: when I tuned the tensionner counterclockwise, the bolt untighten.... my trick: I pinched the belt (hard) to make the tensionner move, then I blocked it using my torks wrench, and I was able to move the belt with my 2nd hand. -Exhaust: What you didn't filmed is: Remove the 4 bolts at the outlet (as you showed), remove 2 10mm bolts visible from the top, it tightens a "small" heat-shield to the engine block. Finally there is a "hidden" 10mm at the bottom of the exhaust line to maintain it to then engine block. Apologize, I have no pictures or video. Also: You may get a "female" tork socket to remove properly the lug nut of the exhaust (one out of four) without it I had to struggle with 2 nuts face to face to remove it. Otherwise the exhaust cannot be fully removed. Finally: I removed the first exhaust silent block to have more movement. -Oil sump stuck: I used a small crowbar at one corner (the only one where it is possible), it's located on front, left hand side. A 2nd hand was handy to maintain the exhaust line in up position while fighting with the sump and my crowbar. -Oil sump: I was not able to totally remove it; it was stuck at 90°. The 2 lug nuts of the bottom of the exhaust line were blocking any additional movement. -Remounting: the sealing of the sump was such a pain with almost no access to clean and prepare the new gasket. My advide if you have the right tools it to totally remove the first part of the exaust in order to have full access to the sump and so on. French/Français: Puisque que j'ai (bientôt) terminé, je partage mon expérience et les différences avec ta vidéo: -Cache courroie d'accessoires: Je l'ai retiré complètement pour avoir un accès complet à la 3ème vis qui maintient le compresseur de clim. Pour ca, il y a 2 vis de 8mm cachées sous l'entrée et la sortie du turbo. Afin d'avoir un bien meilleur accès: retirer le phare de droite, il n'y a que 2 vis T30 + une vis plastique. Là vous pourrez retirer la grosse durite qui va de la sortie du turbo à l'entrée de l'échangeur (colliers 7mm). Enfin il y a un support plastique qui maintient la durite juste avant et une autre. Pour le retirer il faut d'abord retirer la pièce plastique qui fait l'angle avant l'entrée du turbo. Une fois tout ça fait le cache se retire par le dessous. -Courroie d'accessoires: moi quand je tournais dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre le tendeur se desserrai... j'ai réussi en pinçant fortement la courroie, le tendeur bouge, je le maintient avec ma clé tork pendant que je retire la couroie avec mon autre main. -Échappement: ce qui n'est pas filmé: Retirer les 4 vis/écrous (comme sur la vidéo), retirer 2 vis 10mm visible depuis le haut, ca semble maintenir un petit pare chaleur mais il est en fait solidaire de la ligne. Enfin il y a une vis de 10mm bien cachée en partie basse de la ligne. Ça la maintient au block moteur juste avant le col de cygne. Conseil: un douille tork femelle serait utile pour retirer les goujons. Moi j'ai du galérer avec écrou/contre écrou. Sinon à la fin l’échappement ne bougera pas suffisamment. Enfin: j'ai déboîté le 1er silentblock pour avoir plus de débattement. -Carter d'huile collé: j'ai utilisé un petit pied de biche dans un coin (le seul ou c'est possible). C'est celui qui est à l'avant côté conducteur (volant à gauche). Il m'a fallut une 2ème personne pour maintenir l’échappement en position haute pendant l’opération. -Carter d'huile: je n'ai pas pu le retirer complètement, il était bloqué à 90°. Les 2 goujons qui maintiennent la ligne d'échappement bloquait le carter. -Remontage: Le joint c'était la grosse galère. Pas d'accès pour nettoyer puis déposer le nouveau joint. Mon conseil si vous êtes bien outillé c'est de déposer complètement le col de cygne pour avoir un accès nickel au carter. Pour ceux qui ne parlent pas l'anglais, ma crépine d'huile était nickel... donc mon problème est ailleurs. Peut-être la solénoïde de la pompe à huile défaillante (j'ai lut quelques trucs la dessus).
@@matthieud8693 Excellent description and it does sound familiar 👍 I'd perhaps check your oil pressure next, I think testing kits a relatively inexpensive off the internet and then at least this way you know whether the noise you have is due to oil starvation.
Hi mate really appreciate this video. My 1.0 ecoboost is on 33,000 miles at the moment. Im looking to do this myself at about 60/70,000 miles. How long does it take to get the sump off and is it as easy and just scraping the deposits off the oil pump with a screwdriver until its clean? Have you got any recommendations? Thankyou
No worries, the best advice would be to keep on top of the servicing. Perhaps even do it sooner than the recommended intervals using the correct oil. As for taking the sump off, I did it as and when I had time (it wasn't my daily driver.) I would set aside a full day for it. I have another video in which I clean the pump out with it removed from the car. Get as much info as you can before starting, whether that's from other UA-cam videos or forums online. It's not particularly difficult but just make sure you have everything you need to take it apart and put it back together again. Good luck.
@@FireBrigadeAGoGo Dunno, but considering that it takes 70,000 miles to clog the mesh it's not a lot of sludge, a filter change every 5000 miles would catch it easily
@@chrismills9346 it still wasn't right, think the top end was starved of oil as it would rattle on cold start up. It went to We Want Any Car.com. and they gave me more than I paid for it so I did alright.
It was too late for me my 1 l ecoboost die in the french motorway because of stuck pump at 160 000 kilomètres... i flush oil every 18 000 kilomètres... cost me 8000€ to replace the motor .. i will try to reduce the cost at 4000 €...
@@Papa77sGarage Thanks for the video. I have the same problem with a C-max. The light from the oil pressure remains on for more than 10 seconds at startup, when the weather is cold (-5 degrees Celsius). If the engine is hot it goes out immediately.
I’ve got the same problem on my 1.0 focus, but I haven’t had the time to look at it to check it, when i used to start it up it was a really loud noise and oil light was on
What an piece of shit engine... We just did a timing belt for one of these and when went for a test drive, the oil light came on pretty soon? We took the oilpan out and I have never seen so much scrap on the pickup screen and in the pan. The owner hadnt paid any attention to the oil light... and he was the one who drove it straight to the shop so we had no freaking clue wtf had happened... great... Just great ..
As a retired engineer with limited knowledge about car engine strips, I am so glad Ive seen a number of unbiased videos including this one about the 'award winning' 1.0litre ford ecoboost engines. My Take:- what on earth were Ford thinking when they designed such a fatally flawed piece of machinery ???? wet belts inside the sump that when they begin to wear, readily clog the whole works up????? without multiple oil changes ?????? I therefore would not have any vehicle with that 'piece of crap' for a motor inside it so, Im glad I've watched a number of youtube videos about this crappy engine, pointing out the real issues, over and over with it So, thanks for taking the time to film this.
Thanks for the comment it's greatly appreciated. I didn't realize this was an award winning engine. Must have been before issues started to become apparent. If they had fitted it with a timing chain it would likely have a better reputation. I assume it costs more to put a chain on it over a belt. . . . . .
I'm with you there, wouldn't want to own another car with that engine powering it.
@@Papa77sGarage yep it won major awards all across europe around 2012. keep up the good work. Id love to know whether proper car mechanics think any of these small 1 litre 3 pot engines are actually well designed and, are any good at all. advice appreciated
Just to make things clear - This engine has been tortured with lack of oil changes and the buildup in the pickup is particles from the timingbelt. YOU need to keep these engines in order with frequent oil changes, as this problem is because of contaminated oil that breaks down the timingbelt and clogs up the pickup and starves the engine... Always use the Castrol Ford spec oil and using thicker oil will also be a no no because of vvt, and the viscosity is made for this engine for a reason..
I know this, first thing I did was check the service history and it was 35,000 miles without a service. Also the guy I bought it off had apparently had it remapped to 160ish bhp and at 3 years old had already needed a new turbo. I'm well aware this engine has been abused so thanks for telling me what I already know.
@@Papa77sGarage Yeah i know you were getting it running - But the engine has already suffered from the neglect, 35000 miles without a oil change must also be a record.. Did you change the timingbelt before flipping it..?
@@martinrasmussen8745all I did was clean the oil pick up and then change the oil and filter. It then went to We Buy Any Car.com and they paid me a tidy profit. I wouldn't dream of flipping it on to a regular member of the public. I couldn't take their money knowing that I'd been picking chunks of metal from the sump. It would have needed a reconditioned engine before I even thought about doing that.
@@Papa77sGarage I Agree.... But i would be sad to own this - not only because of the worn belt, but the wear on the engine must have been quite bad... But these engines are a expensive lessons learned when oil changes go too far and ppl rarely want to spens the money on extra oil changes when needed.. Along with coolant issues and leaking coolant on turbo's they are pretty prone to fail in other aspects too..
My mums 1L with 58k miles exact same issue, it's with Ford getting its repairs done. So sad 2.7k on this bs..we were planning to service it soon since we just brought it in November
Great video, I managed to clean my pump, by following your guide, Took about 12 hours in total to complete but well worth it considering no garages wanted to touch it
thecarlovers. channel Luckily the car was close to home when the oil pressure warning came on, So no long term damage :) Its such a pain to have to almost take the engine apart just to remove the sump haha Without your video I don’t think I would of had a clue where to start, So it’s appreciated 👍🏼
How did you got water pump off mine does t seem to want to come off
Mate best video on the web regarding doing this quality my
wife's car is needing this repair done with the exact fault
Glad you find it useful and hopefully you get it sorted.
Hi mate this video is great step by step.
Im doing this on my mums car, turns out that Ford weren't servicing it properly the oil filter was old and rusted and the cabin filter was stock after 5 years so i'm taking charge of servicing it.
Great video and explanations man thanks very much 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words. I don't blame you for serving it yourself. I imagine it would be hard to trust someone else to do it now after that experience.
Excellent and interesting vlog, I have an ecosport for the mrs with only 18k miles but when oil change due soon I will probably use Westway oils….i use Westway in my van which seems very good and reviews are also extremely good, kind regards to you and everyone out there….Mark from Billericay 😀👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
great video did mine today, i knew what i was doing before starting, blocked pickup
Excellent, that's what I like to hear.
wrong engine oil or oil change too late will destroy the timing belt.
then you have the problem with the oil pressure and the clogged oil pump.
your timing belt still okay?
Hi! Nice video. Maybe you know, which distance between the oil pump suction and the bottom of the sump? I would like to inspect the oil mesh by endoscope to using a hole for the drain plug.
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately its not something I measured the distance of but hopefully there is enough room to get the endoscope around the corner.
@@Papa77sGarage did it. Looks fine
@@shurio You did endoscope? Is it possible to do it?
@@pawlo79pl yes, possible. Only make sure that endoscope diam not more than 6.5 mm together with mirror
@@shurio Thank You
Excellent video and life saver @Papa 77s Garage ! I have just taken my oil filter out and it was all gunged up same ,, only thing is i took the pump apart also and i am not sure i have it back together again,, would you have any idea where i can find a site that strips the oil pump and rebuild it?! many thanks and appreciate your video!
Thanks for the kind words. As for another video I'm unsure. I didn't strip my pump down so never needed to search. Hopefully you find something useful 🤞
Had the same problem 6 months ago and pump was replaced by a garage with new one, plus a new pressure solenoid valve and oil/filter. 6 months down the line and the turbo's failed. NO oil getting to it. Checked the oil feed pipe which is clear. Oil pressure warning light still goes out ok. Blockage must be between the filter and turbo oil inlet pipe but no idea where or how to remove it.
Hi ray, how much did they charge if you don't mind me asking?
Mine has 90K on it and done 5-7K oil changes myself.. But never had any oilpressure errors yet, but for sure you need to keep oil changes frequent. This smuldering timingbelt thing is normal and annoying to see happening.. Guess i need to be on my back to get this looked at to in the near future..
the timing chain in this cars is a timing bomb i guess. even with the correct engine oil.
@@rafael6693 It's a timingbelt and not a chain.. The timingbelt is a concern and if you go this long as stated 35000 miles it's already fucked.. The timingbelt will be alright if you keep using the Castrol and change the oil often.. I've seen engines with normal oil change intervals being fine and sump clean, so either you need to do the oil changes freuently or if you do long trips most of the time the oil does not get contaminated as much. But on these engines i would not go longer than 10Kmiles and preferable 5-7Kmiles.. Oil is cheap - Engines ain't..
@@martinrasmussen8745 yeah i meant time belt sry. It is always important to put the oil that the manufacturer says to put. My car is having this exact problem and the mechanic said a lot of ford and peugeots with this belt are having this problems.he is waiting for the new timing chain to arrive, he already changed the oil pump and the solenoid that controls the oil pressure. But he said that only after turning on the engine we will see if everything is alright because basically after this oil light appears that engine parts are not being lubrificated which means the engine is probably gone. I parked the car 30 seconds after this oil light appears but we never know it is probably more then sufficient, I didn’t hear any noise in this interval. He said he made the diagnosis and said probably everything is fine before he changed anything, but it is weird because he had to turn the engine on before ( at least i assume) lol
@@rafael6693 Can't say if your engine has problems with lack of oil or pressure drop because of the timingbelt clogging up the pickup.. But the severe cases will mean a new engine or your lucky that it has not starved the too much engine from lack of lubrication.. It can jump timing if the belt is worn enough and as you don't have any excessive noises you might be fine.. Normal timingbelt changes will only need the belts for the cams/crank and also the belt for the oil pump - More severe cases it would be a good idea to change the oil pump as well.. PSA has already change their intervals for timingbelts, but they are some what easier to change than the Fords...
@@SilverSeeker232 solely used the specific Castrol oil. My timingbelt was changed and it was toothless on 15% of the belt. I think the culprit was the hpfp and i changed that out later on..
Hi. Do you know if the oil pump belt needs to be changed when replacing the timing belt, tensioners and pulleys? I can’t find any time interval to replace the oil pump belt.
I would advise changing it, it's hardly any extra work at all if the timing belt is being done. It's also not likely to cost all that much either and will give you peace of mind.
Cool. Thanks for the reply.
@@Papa77sGarageCan the oil pump belt can be replaced while timing belt is off? Or do you need to remove sump to change the pump belt.
@@joshdd1 I'm pretty sure that's the only way you can replace it. I think the oil pump belt sits behind the timing belt, that's why I advise changing them both together. There should be enough room to get the pump belt off with the sump in place however I've never actually changed one so I could be wrong. I do know my boss has recently bought the equipment to do them and it doesn't seem as straight forward as a usual timing belt. We haven't had one in for replacement yet but I'm waiting for the day.
Hi Mate, after replacing the oil sump on my ford fiesta 1.0 eco boost the car didn't want to crank/start do you know what might be the problem?
the debris is timing belt material not carbon very prominent eco boom engines to failure nice work though
Good to know, thanks for clearing it up 👍
Top vid keep up the good work
Thanks for the kind words.
Can I ask is it best to conduct 5000 mile oil changes on these engines?
It certainly won't hurt and if it saves potential oil starvation then its a no brainer.
I change mine every 5000 kms. Better to be safe than sorry.
Hi, this video showed me that my fiesta is most probably concerned. I don't have oil red light but I have ratteling when engine is heating. And I have this issue even if I bought it brand new in 2013 did oil change every 20.000km or 1 year.
Anyhow, I'm removing my oil sump today and I'm facing an issue:
I cannot figure out how to remove the heatshield. On the front I'm blocked by A/C radiator and fitting, on top, the heatshield is blocked by the turbocharger and every directions the sensor at turbocharger outlet does not allow to move a lot.
@Papa77 or anybody else; do you have a tip or advice? Thanks!
If I remember correctly there was some 10mm and 8mm bolts. I think I had to remove the oxygen sensor from the downpipe also. With yours being a 2013 it is going to be a Mk7 fiesta whereas this one is a 2017 mk 8. Now I haven't compared the two side by side so can't say for sure whether they are the same process of removal but they will be similar. I hope this helps.
Thanks for your answer @Papa 77! For the heat-shield, I removed the oxygen sensor (the one on top of the exhaust). The only thing is: get a 22mm wrench ^^ I had only an adjustable wrench + WD40 + rubber hammer it worked but it could be better with the right tools :)
There was almost no difference between your 2017 and my 2013. Except maybe some differences related to right/left steering wheel (I'm french ;) ).
Before I explain my experience, I let you know that my oil inlet was 100% clean.... so my problem is somewhere else. Maybe the oil pump solenoid, I saw video on potential problems on it.
(french translation at the bottom / traduction française plus bas)
Since I have (almost) finish I share my experience and differences to your video:
-Accessory belt plastic cover: I removed it completely for full access to the 3rd blot of the A/C compressor. For this, you have to remove 2 additional 8mm bolts of the cover located below the turbocharger (inlet and outlet). For (way) better access: remove the right hand front beam it takes 2 bolts T30 + a plastic screw; then remove the flexible hose that goes from turbocharger outlet down to the heat exchange (7mm collar).
Then finally there is a plastic bracket for the previous hose and another one. To remove it you have to remove 1st the "L shaped" plastic part that is fitted to the turbocharger inlet.
Once you have done the above; the plastic cover can be removed by the bottom.
-Accessory belt: when I tuned the tensionner counterclockwise, the bolt untighten.... my trick: I pinched the belt (hard) to make the tensionner move, then I blocked it using my torks wrench, and I was able to move the belt with my 2nd hand.
-Exhaust: What you didn't filmed is: Remove the 4 bolts at the outlet (as you showed), remove 2 10mm bolts visible from the top, it tightens a "small" heat-shield to the engine block. Finally there is a "hidden" 10mm at the bottom of the exhaust line to maintain it to then engine block. Apologize, I have no pictures or video.
Also: You may get a "female" tork socket to remove properly the lug nut of the exhaust (one out of four) without it I had to struggle with 2 nuts face to face to remove it. Otherwise the exhaust cannot be fully removed.
Finally: I removed the first exhaust silent block to have more movement.
-Oil sump stuck: I used a small crowbar at one corner (the only one where it is possible), it's located on front, left hand side. A 2nd hand was handy to maintain the exhaust line in up position while fighting with the sump and my crowbar.
-Oil sump: I was not able to totally remove it; it was stuck at 90°. The 2 lug nuts of the bottom of the exhaust line were blocking any additional movement.
-Remounting: the sealing of the sump was such a pain with almost no access to clean and prepare the new gasket. My advide if you have the right tools it to totally remove the first part of the exaust in order to have full access to the sump and so on.
French/Français:
Puisque que j'ai (bientôt) terminé, je partage mon expérience et les différences avec ta vidéo:
-Cache courroie d'accessoires: Je l'ai retiré complètement pour avoir un accès complet à la 3ème vis qui maintient le compresseur de clim. Pour ca, il y a 2 vis de 8mm cachées sous l'entrée et la sortie du turbo. Afin d'avoir un bien meilleur accès: retirer le phare de droite, il n'y a que 2 vis T30 + une vis plastique. Là vous pourrez retirer la grosse durite qui va de la sortie du turbo à l'entrée de l'échangeur (colliers 7mm).
Enfin il y a un support plastique qui maintient la durite juste avant et une autre. Pour le retirer il faut d'abord retirer la pièce plastique qui fait l'angle avant l'entrée du turbo.
Une fois tout ça fait le cache se retire par le dessous.
-Courroie d'accessoires: moi quand je tournais dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre le tendeur se desserrai... j'ai réussi en pinçant fortement la courroie, le tendeur bouge, je le maintient avec ma clé tork pendant que je retire la couroie avec mon autre main.
-Échappement: ce qui n'est pas filmé: Retirer les 4 vis/écrous (comme sur la vidéo), retirer 2 vis 10mm visible depuis le haut, ca semble maintenir un petit pare chaleur mais il est en fait solidaire de la ligne. Enfin il y a une vis de 10mm bien cachée en partie basse de la ligne. Ça la maintient au block moteur juste avant le col de cygne.
Conseil: un douille tork femelle serait utile pour retirer les goujons. Moi j'ai du galérer avec écrou/contre écrou. Sinon à la fin l’échappement ne bougera pas suffisamment.
Enfin: j'ai déboîté le 1er silentblock pour avoir plus de débattement.
-Carter d'huile collé: j'ai utilisé un petit pied de biche dans un coin (le seul ou c'est possible). C'est celui qui est à l'avant côté conducteur (volant à gauche). Il m'a fallut une 2ème personne pour maintenir l’échappement en position haute pendant l’opération.
-Carter d'huile: je n'ai pas pu le retirer complètement, il était bloqué à 90°. Les 2 goujons qui maintiennent la ligne d'échappement bloquait le carter.
-Remontage: Le joint c'était la grosse galère. Pas d'accès pour nettoyer puis déposer le nouveau joint. Mon conseil si vous êtes bien outillé c'est de déposer complètement le col de cygne pour avoir un accès nickel au carter.
Pour ceux qui ne parlent pas l'anglais, ma crépine d'huile était nickel... donc mon problème est ailleurs. Peut-être la solénoïde de la pompe à huile défaillante (j'ai lut quelques trucs la dessus).
@@matthieud8693 Excellent description and it does sound familiar 👍 I'd perhaps check your oil pressure next, I think testing kits a relatively inexpensive off the internet and then at least this way you know whether the noise you have is due to oil starvation.
Hi mate really appreciate this video. My 1.0 ecoboost is on 33,000 miles at the moment. Im looking to do this myself at about 60/70,000 miles. How long does it take to get the sump off and is it as easy and just scraping the deposits off the oil pump with a screwdriver until its clean? Have you got any recommendations? Thankyou
No worries, the best advice would be to keep on top of the servicing. Perhaps even do it sooner than the recommended intervals using the correct oil. As for taking the sump off, I did it as and when I had time (it wasn't my daily driver.) I would set aside a full day for it. I have another video in which I clean the pump out with it removed from the car. Get as much info as you can before starting, whether that's from other UA-cam videos or forums online. It's not particularly difficult but just make sure you have everything you need to take it apart and put it back together again. Good luck.
Best to take out the mesh altogether, and let the filter do the job it's suppose to do.
Stupid question, I'm new to these engines but would that actually work? I had this thought -.-'
@@FireBrigadeAGoGo Dunno, but considering that it takes 70,000 miles to clog the mesh it's not a lot of sludge, a filter change every 5000 miles would catch it easily
Never had oil change in memory off man
I think you're right there.
When had one in never had oil change for 40 thousand ended up chucking it leg out block
@@chrismills9346 this one was probably about 5,000 miles away from the same thing.
Lucky to save it once that hole in the block it's fucked
@@chrismills9346 it still wasn't right, think the top end was starved of oil as it would rattle on cold start up. It went to We Want Any Car.com. and they gave me more than I paid for it so I did alright.
Cool video mate
Taking the catalytic converter off makes the sump removal much easier in my opinion
Definitely, would have saved trying to jiggle it around the down pipe.
Great vid
It was too late for me my 1 l ecoboost die in the french motorway because of stuck pump at 160 000 kilomètres... i flush oil every 18 000 kilomètres... cost me 8000€ to replace the motor .. i will try to reduce the cost at 4000 €...
My bmax 1.0 ecoboost os at 81
000 and oil changes at every 6 months
Hello. Why did you do this intervention? Oil pressure problems?
@@Papa77sGarage Thanks for the video. I have the same problem with a C-max. The light from the oil pressure remains on for more than 10 seconds at startup, when the weather is cold (-5 degrees Celsius). If the engine is hot it goes out immediately.
I’ve got the same problem on my 1.0 focus, but I haven’t had the time to look at it to check it, when i used to start it up it was a really loud noise and oil light was on
Hey evergreen. Have the same problem that you've described. Did you fix it? And if yes, how? Best
@@markpennock9354 did you solve your problem?
@@mirelstoica did you manage to fix this problem?
Brilliant
Are you serious? 35k miles Without an oil change??? 😐
Shrapnel 🤣
35k without an oil change..lol ...
Far from ideal!
Great video ,havingbthe same issue with mine, but it has been served,just a stupid design by ford,use chains ford ffs
Looks like that was a pain.
@@Papa77sGarage New ECU and fuel components. I'll start installing soon. Been busy with holidays. Hows the new year been for you?
What an piece of shit engine... We just did a timing belt for one of these and when went for a test drive, the oil light came on pretty soon? We took the oilpan out and I have never seen so much scrap on the pickup screen and in the pan. The owner hadnt paid any attention to the oil light... and he was the one who drove it straight to the shop so we had no freaking clue wtf had happened... great... Just great ..
One of the worst engine designs ever.
I haven't had much to do with them but from what I've heard, very unreliable.
Got to the point where he tries to remove A/C pump while still got belt on......
Any help im in need of is not from this guy...... Never mind.