I need about 10 of these videos daily! 😋 I just had a child 2 weeks ago so these videos have been getting me through a lot of long nights! Keep up the amazing work!
Love your channel Ryan. Thank you for posting 2x per week for the last couple. Fraterworks dark patchouli is the smoothest and most consistent I’ve experienced so far. Keep up these videos. So much knowledge and little ideas for accords and bases come from your videos.
I am not sure why, but this does do something crazy in the bottle. I made this with a mix of Clearwood and Dark Patchouli, and green mandarin instead of read, and I am not sure what material does it (coumarin + oakmoss? citrus notes?) but it turns the lavender almost comically clean and gourmand. It feels very barbershop, sweet, but I am not sure what makes it 90's (no Cedramber or DHM ;) ). With a few changes to make it more Powdery and italian I could easily imagine this on Burt Lancaster in The Leopard.
Before I bought and smelt the actual ingredient, I thought coumarin was "spicy" - in my head anyways. It's actual pretty sweet. Well, diluted to 10%, it's sweet to my nose. Don't really get aquatic. At least, not yet 😄
Another amazing video!!! What 90s perfume do you think is the most likely to be linked with this recipe? Changing the suject, I tested CH Bad Boy Le Parfum and Phantom EDP and they vibe in the same direction: zesty lemon and boiling cream to my nose (that BB cannabis accord could be in part citrus). More lactonic and sour than caramellic toffe. What do you think about this "accord"? What could it be made of? PS: BB Le Parfum is mostly ambroxan and musk when it dries away and after a shower washes the most volatile components of my skin 🤔
I don't believe Patchouli (technically, any of its constituent aroma chemicals) is currently restricted by IFRA. That "10%" recommended usage you may see on TheGoodScentsCompany is only a suggestion.
Im interested with this formulation i guess i have almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the materials (mostly those from base notes) + musks materials. For my middle & top i have this jasmine, rose, geranium, citrus, spice (pink pepper), frankincense, heliotropin Any suggestions of this materials and which i should consider not to overdose in my formulation
I recreated the br540 using your formula, for the smell is really good but i have a problem with its longevity & projection. When i spray it it doesnt really last long on the skin and in my clothes. 1) what do you think makes me feel noseblind on my blend? 2)how do you treat DPG in the formula 3)any takes to improve longevity and projection? Am not really after with too loud initial burst when i spray it but i want fair projection that atleast dont dry down that fast
This is an interesting one, and I have had (and still do have) similar issues. I get quickly anosmic/noseblind to ISO E Super, Ambrox Super, Tobaccoral and some other wildly popular chemicals. Getting back to the formula Ryan posted; 377.9 - IPM 300 - Hedione 120 - Veramoss 100 - Ambroxan 50 - Ambrox DL 27 - Ethyl Maltol 7 - Octyl Salicylate 5 - Oakmoss GIVCO 5 - Safranal 1% 2.5 - Orange 2 - BHT 2 - Jasmine Sambac Absolute 0.6 - Fir Balsam Abs 0.6 - Tagetes 0.2 - Jasmone cis 0.1 - ISO E Super 0.1 - Lemon The florals and citrusses are likely to wear off fast. But Oakmoss and Veramoss, Ethyl Maltol, Ambrox and Ambroxan as well as Hedione should all last a while. The longevity has to do with how fast things evaporate (also indicative of what type of 'note' it is, different definitions of this but I believe Ryan says basenotes are 100hr on a scentstrip). If you want to stave off the dry-down, you need longer-lasting midnotes, florals, herbaceous materials and such. You also need to understand your materials, are you anosmic to any of the materials on their own? Try diluting them to 10% or 1% for the even stronger ones and see if you can get what other people describe the material as. Some of the suggestions below are fair, but too many musks can also squash a formula, it's about balance.
@@Bluedawn295oh thanks for this, yes i have to check which ingredients makes me anosmic. But given that, i also give samples of my blend to my friend to check and thu they like the overall scents it gives them the same evaluation, --projection and longevity(less than 5hrs). Btw, im really new in perfumery and this being my first blend.. To give you a bit more about the blend, i also added orange as i love orange fragrance and and this dominate the top notes. I love how ethyl maltol stays also giving me more of the candy-jam-like in the middle. It also reminds me of caramel latte in some angle. I think if you agree about the idea of adding musk i guess i would get a go. Now, im preparing another batch of blend but this time giving more of spices and flowers from bc540. Im doing this coz i wanna really familiarize some ingredients. So here’ the blend im planning to make: 0.1 -veramoss 50%tec 0.1 -oakmoss abs 10%dpg 0.1 -wild fir leaf eo 1.875 -vanillin 25%dpg 1.715 -coumarin 10% dpg 0.2 - patchouli eo 0.3 -ambrofix 10%ethanol 0.3 -ambrox super 10% dpg 6.0 - galaxolide 50%ipm 0.4 - tonalide 25% ipm 0.01 -BHT %10tec 0.1 -Benzyl Benzoate 0.1 -Cashmeran 1.7 -Hedoine 0.2 -linalool 0.1 -cis jasmone 0.2 -jasmine 0.54 - kephalis 0.1 -safraleine 1.7 -Ethyl Maltol 10% TEC 1.875 -ISO e Super 0.2 -Heliotropex 0.1 -Geranium Eo 0.04 -Geranol Basf 0.08 -Resinoid Olibanum/Frankincense 0.16 - pink peppercorn eo 0.20 - rose cactus (tom ford prink rose) 0.06 - tagetes/marigold 0.60 - PEPA 0.20 - Lemon 0.10 - Orange Sweet Italy Among of these, im still actually thinking adding Tonka Bean Accord and irish Accord, but seems too over already..
This is all interesting to read! I just don’t have the longevity problem, at least not when I get some of this blend on my clothes. It lasts all day! That said, I can tell I go nose blind to it. But if if I’m mindful of what I’m smelling, I can still pick it up. The longevity is confirmed by smelling this on others to whom I’ve given it as a gift. I smelled this on my sister 6 hours after she applied and it was still going strong.
Hello, as a simple formula, i am interested to try it, but need some advice... Coranol I do not have access, so, coriander maybe? Coriander + wardia? Can I make an accord to substitute it, or just do not use this line? Do I loose too much without it? Only coranol I do not have, so I dont know the smell, can some one help?
Given my batch size, I'd have added 0.006g of vanillin powder, and 0.024g of Coumarin powder. That's tough, and not worth the hassle when I have easy dilutions to work with :-)
That's tough to say. It's a generic Woody Fougere from the 90s. It reminds me a little of Kenneth Cole Signature, but it's been a while since I've smelled that fragrance. Still, it's warm, herbaceous, woody...
i absolutely NEED that fleur du male recreation!
I need about 10 of these videos daily! 😋 I just had a child 2 weeks ago so these videos have been getting me through a lot of long nights! Keep up the amazing work!
A HUGE congrats to you!!! 🥳 That’s wonderful!
Getting a video from Ryan NOT ON A FRIDAY?? My lucky day!! :)
Love your channel Ryan. Thank you for posting 2x per week for the last couple. Fraterworks dark patchouli is the smoothest and most consistent I’ve experienced so far.
Keep up these videos. So much knowledge and little ideas for accords and bases come from your videos.
Thank you for the heads up on Fraterworks's dark patchouli :-)
Would be nice if you make a short with an update how the scent evolved in a couple of weeks!
I am not sure why, but this does do something crazy in the bottle. I made this with a mix of Clearwood and Dark Patchouli, and green mandarin instead of read, and I am not sure what material does it (coumarin + oakmoss? citrus notes?) but it turns the lavender almost comically clean and gourmand. It feels very barbershop, sweet, but I am not sure what makes it 90's (no Cedramber or DHM ;) ). With a few changes to make it more Powdery and italian I could easily imagine this on Burt Lancaster in The Leopard.
You're so right. I'm going to experiment more with this. It really changes as it matures!
Please we want that fleur du male !!!
We appreciate you Rye!
Thanks and appreciate your work lots lots blessings.
Come on Ryan....21:17 you weren't smelling the fragrance, you were flexing those arms. LOL Keep up the videos brother.
Didn't he make a video two weeks ago where his shirt is off and he's hauling the stump he uses for waste aromachemicals
Guilty on both counts.
Before I bought and smelt the actual ingredient, I thought coumarin was "spicy" - in my head anyways. It's actual pretty sweet. Well, diluted to 10%, it's sweet to my nose. Don't really get aquatic. At least, not yet 😄
Another amazing video!!! What 90s perfume do you think is the most likely to be linked with this recipe?
Changing the suject, I tested CH Bad Boy Le Parfum and Phantom EDP and they vibe in the same direction: zesty lemon and boiling cream to my nose (that BB cannabis accord could be in part citrus). More lactonic and sour than caramellic toffe. What do you think about this "accord"? What could it be made of?
PS: BB Le Parfum is mostly ambroxan and musk when it dries away and after a shower washes the most volatile components of my skin 🤔
thanks for sharing this formula 😃 question ? does patchouli have limitations ifra ? i read 10% in this formula almost 20%
I don't believe Patchouli (technically, any of its constituent aroma chemicals) is currently restricted by IFRA. That "10%" recommended usage you may see on TheGoodScentsCompany is only a suggestion.
@@RyanParfums Thank you
@@RyanParfums Thank you
"I'm almost looking for the Blue Cheese.....and every time.... I find it...."
Im interested with this formulation i guess i have almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the materials (mostly those from base notes) + musks materials.
For my middle & top i have this jasmine, rose, geranium, citrus, spice (pink pepper), frankincense, heliotropin
Any suggestions of this materials and which i should consider not to overdose in my formulation
Those sound like great potential replacements! Give them a try. Perhaps an overdose of one of those materials would make something new and wonderful.
I recreated the br540 using your formula, for the smell is really good but i have a problem with its longevity & projection. When i spray it it doesnt really last long on the skin and in my clothes.
1) what do you think makes me feel noseblind on my blend?
2)how do you treat DPG in the formula
3)any takes to improve longevity and projection? Am not really after with too loud initial burst when i spray it but i want fair projection that atleast dont dry down that fast
put some white musks. it will help with longevity and projection even still
@@SeedKreationsdo you i can reformulTe my previous blend adding musk to it (my blend is sitting now for 3 weeks with ethanol already)
This is an interesting one, and I have had (and still do have) similar issues. I get quickly anosmic/noseblind to ISO E Super, Ambrox Super, Tobaccoral and some other wildly popular chemicals.
Getting back to the formula Ryan posted;
377.9 - IPM
300 - Hedione
120 - Veramoss
100 - Ambroxan
50 - Ambrox DL
27 - Ethyl Maltol
7 - Octyl Salicylate
5 - Oakmoss GIVCO
5 - Safranal 1%
2.5 - Orange
2 - BHT
2 - Jasmine Sambac Absolute
0.6 - Fir Balsam Abs
0.6 - Tagetes
0.2 - Jasmone cis
0.1 - ISO E Super
0.1 - Lemon
The florals and citrusses are likely to wear off fast. But Oakmoss and Veramoss, Ethyl Maltol, Ambrox and Ambroxan as well as Hedione should all last a while. The longevity has to do with how fast things evaporate (also indicative of what type of 'note' it is, different definitions of this but I believe Ryan says basenotes are 100hr on a scentstrip).
If you want to stave off the dry-down, you need longer-lasting midnotes, florals, herbaceous materials and such.
You also need to understand your materials, are you anosmic to any of the materials on their own? Try diluting them to 10% or 1% for the even stronger ones and see if you can get what other people describe the material as.
Some of the suggestions below are fair, but too many musks can also squash a formula, it's about balance.
@@Bluedawn295oh thanks for this, yes i have to check which ingredients makes me anosmic. But given that, i also give samples of my blend to my friend to check and thu they like the overall scents it gives them the same evaluation, --projection and longevity(less than 5hrs).
Btw, im really new in perfumery and this being my first blend..
To give you a bit more about the blend, i also added orange as i love orange fragrance and and this dominate the top notes. I love how ethyl maltol stays also giving me more of the candy-jam-like in the middle. It also reminds me of caramel latte in some angle. I think if you agree about the idea of adding musk i guess i would get a go.
Now, im preparing another batch of blend but this time giving more of spices and flowers from bc540. Im doing this coz i wanna really familiarize some ingredients. So here’ the blend im planning to make:
0.1 -veramoss 50%tec
0.1 -oakmoss abs 10%dpg
0.1 -wild fir leaf eo
1.875 -vanillin 25%dpg
1.715 -coumarin 10% dpg
0.2 - patchouli eo
0.3 -ambrofix 10%ethanol
0.3 -ambrox super 10% dpg
6.0 - galaxolide 50%ipm
0.4 - tonalide 25% ipm
0.01 -BHT %10tec
0.1 -Benzyl Benzoate
0.1 -Cashmeran
1.7 -Hedoine
0.2 -linalool
0.1 -cis jasmone
0.2 -jasmine
0.54 - kephalis
0.1 -safraleine
1.7 -Ethyl Maltol 10% TEC
1.875 -ISO e Super
0.2 -Heliotropex
0.1 -Geranium Eo
0.04 -Geranol Basf
0.08 -Resinoid Olibanum/Frankincense
0.16 - pink peppercorn eo
0.20 - rose cactus (tom ford prink rose)
0.06 - tagetes/marigold
0.60 - PEPA
0.20 - Lemon
0.10 - Orange Sweet Italy
Among of these, im still actually thinking adding Tonka Bean Accord and irish Accord, but seems too over already..
This is all interesting to read!
I just don’t have the longevity problem, at least not when I get some of this blend on my clothes. It lasts all day!
That said, I can tell I go nose blind to it. But if if I’m mindful of what I’m smelling, I can still pick it up. The longevity is confirmed by smelling this on others to whom I’ve given it as a gift. I smelled this on my sister 6 hours after she applied and it was still going strong.
Hello, as a simple formula, i am interested to try it, but need some advice...
Coranol I do not have access, so, coriander maybe? Coriander + wardia? Can I make an accord to substitute it, or just do not use this line? Do I loose too much without it?
Only coranol I do not have, so I dont know the smell, can some one help?
Linalool will work just fine :-)
Ryan...
Why not add coumarin & vanillin solid ??
Given my batch size, I'd have added 0.006g of vanillin powder, and 0.024g of Coumarin powder. That's tough, and not worth the hassle when I have easy dilutions to work with :-)
This is similar to which perfume? Just for reference
That's tough to say. It's a generic Woody Fougere from the 90s. It reminds me a little of Kenneth Cole Signature, but it's been a while since I've smelled that fragrance. Still, it's warm, herbaceous, woody...
@@RyanParfums
Thank you brother.
Could you do some musk comparison session?
Give a like if you want to see that too!
This is on my list of videos to do.
Is civet bot restricted?
I'm not sure if Civet is IFRA restricted.
Orange is too broght for me… lacking of zestiness but giving me more sweeettttttttness on the top.