great to have young man who loves the old Saabs and knows how to care for them. Sadly mechanics have walked away from working on Saabs. So sad to let go of my Saab 9-3 convertible which only has 72,000 miles on it. It's like parting with a dear friend.
It is a bigger problem in Canada because Saab no longer exists. I get parts from Saracuse NY and there is one Swedish car specialist. 5 hour from my house.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! The check engine light came on in my 2005 9-3 and the code was for a bad bypass valve or hose. New valve was only ~$40. Quick and easy fix (besides the hoses being really difficult to remove).
I replaced mine thinking it was a turbo issue but ended up being MISFIRES. Shows how much car knowledge I have.😂😂 I've learned so much this past year thankfully my car is running great now
I had a similar issue with my 04 93. Would build slight boost then shutter around half way on the boost gauge and wouldn't fully spool the turbo until about 4k rpm. Checked all the vacuum lines and the BPC valve it ended up being the bypass control valve located next to the throttle body mounted on the engine cover bracket, looks very similar to the BPC valve but different part number
Great advice on those control solenoids! There is another one mounted on top of the intake near the Throttle body, that controls the blowoff valve. Visually identical, but different part number. Each of those is about $45 new from Eeuro. Easy replacements and really woke my 05 ARC up a few years ago. My symptom was if I floored it, the boost would hit less than full and then wither away even more within seconds. Both replaced, problem solved. Glad yours was the boost hose, as that is another example of an easy check and fix.
Great video, If you're modifying the power at all, one of the first things to change are the intercooler soft pipes, for some silicon pipes. I kept on bursting top pipes on my 2006 95 Estate (Edna facelift version) with the 1.9TiD 150bhp Z19DTH engine from Fiat. I had 205bhp and it turned out that the top pipe expanded like a balloon to keep rubbing on an object next to it. I only foud out after revving it up with hte bonnet open and looking through the gap under the wipers as I revved.
Changed whole vacuum system over to silicone - made considerable difference to my 2.0 9.3 Aero - original vacuum pipes looked ok until smoke test revealed leaks from concertina on bend of cobra pipe from turbo to air filter - removing rubber vacuum pipes revealed perishing at back that could not be seen when in place - 2 metres of 6mm vacuum pipe did all of them with loads to spare - have been trying to solve uneven idle from cold for a few weeks - throttle body failed in exceptional UK heatwave - car was un drive-able in 1st and 2nd gear about 15mph flat out ! Secondhand throttle body cured it - now getting about 26 mpg with stage 1 remap Busy doing rustproofing at moment in UK with outstanding Bilt Hamber cavity wax - product comes in aerosol with 30 cm lance that sprays 360 degree- perfect for treating behind plastic wheel liners without dismantling - also great for doing Aero body skirts as you can get cavity wax onto body that rusts out of sight !
thank you for this you fixed my cel (P0035) and lack of boost pressure 🙏 just got a 9-3 and whoever worked on the car last got that clamp on the connector loose somehow. put it in right, cleared the code, and went for a test drive. now getting full boost and the cel has not returned.
Thanks for the video. I have high hopes my similar problem goes away soon, once I've got the part and install it. It's really fun to watch your videos. Keep up the good work. Btw. It's really remarkable how your cars don't ever have the slightest of rust. You often complain about the heat, but it goes to show that your Sonoran climate definitely also has it's benefits, right? In Scandinavia, our SAABs rust away relentlessly.
Just changed mine on my 2.8 for maybe the third time. I've been getting the Porsche Pierberg one, on eeuroparts and you can buy on eBay too for less money. I've been told and seen on forums that the Porsche one tends to hold higher boost and the same direct fit. I am on stage 3 Maptun so this might be my culprit 9/10 times. I know once before it was my brake booster hose in back of the engine bay that was cracked.
2006 Saab turbo feels like it’s choking when accelerating to much(possibly when turbo is kicking in) runs well during idle & when not putting your foot on it. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
Hi Andy! LOL I miss You, but I can't say I could ever understand what the heck You were talking about socially. There are about 20 people who will NOT let anyone live. Thanks for the info!
Hello, love your channel. Recently my 2005 Saab 93 Arc, displayed a Gearbox Malfunction Error, call service. The Transmission oil seems burnt, my friend told me to do a drain and fill and change the transmission filter. Are you familiar with this issue, if so how to solve it. Thank you.
Thanks man. Dealing with boost issues on my "new" 2011 9-3 2.0T xwd 128k miles (with a replaced 2010 b207r 90k miles)(nice lookin car!). Its been throwing up a turbo wastegate solenoid error (can't remember the code off the top of my head) and all 4 "camshaft sensor" errors (P0340) all at once on startup. Put original coils back in, checked/changed the plugs to some good quality @ .039, but its still just not delivering the expected power. Don't think there's any leaks as it pulls a vacuum and reads a few lbs of boost in the lower end, but getting up into the gears (6sp semiauto), it just doesn't seem to deliver the juice from the turbo. Something is amiss... Thanks for the video bc this was my next target. Going to have it checked out, but I am anxious to get this thing working before possibly getting some upgrades! Worried it may be something else or the shop that replaced the engine didn't put everything back properly.
Guys, just be aware that under plastic cover near throttle, there is another one (looking similar) but with different part number. Check part no. before ordering.
Yes they look identical, but different part numbers. If you compare them side by side, the metal vacuum nipples on the solenoids, have a different size inner diameter. So be careful not to mix these up, they are 100% different, despite looking identical
Hey so I had to replace spark plugs, coil packs, airfilter and oil change after my Saab got flooded out so it’s running now but I am not hearing my turbo boost at all and it’s laggy. Is there something I should look for because it’s running but it’s getting way better gas mileage now but has no power to it really. Help me!
Please take the time to respond. I know you are busy and I know this video is quite old. What is the name of the part at the very front of your airbox close to the headlights? There is a hose covering that circle on your airbox. Mine is missing and I am having a problem with boost. I have changed and cleaned everything. I’m going to check the hose by the intercooler and hope that it’s not loose, but I want to put the part on the airbox because when I bought the car, mine is not showing that part
@@AutoAutopsy ok I have a 2010 aero with a 2.0 turbo it has a cover over it so that explains the trouble that I’m having is I really don’t know where to start. I bought the car used. I thought it needed some spark plugs so I purchased some spark plugs. I had the new OEM coil packs. The guy let me have them. He left them with the car as he did not have time to work on the car anymore. He was a older, retired guy and I think his wife was just ready for him to get rid of the car so I don’t have much power in the car like I did in my 2007 so I can tell I am lacking in power I change the lower O2 sensor and it feels better when it’s running in first second and third, but it shakes when I get in fourth gear if I drop it back down to third gear, it will go away. I can drive on the freeway high speed, but it causes shaking. I read about cleaning the ionazation part and I did it had blue corrosion all on it I cleaned and sprayed by MAF feels slightly better but it’s not giving me that take off speed like a true saab should
What can you tell me about the dreaded "steering malfunction" message? I have a 06 9 3 Aero convertible. I have replaced the battery and installed a mini fuse by pass switch and no go...???
Saab 9-3 straight from 2004 here does a similar thing, the boost start around 1700/1800 rpm, then suddenly the turbo stops completely at around 2300rpm, then when passes 2500 rpm turns back on boost, engine is the fiat 1.9 tid 150hp, any clue? My meccanich already changed the turbo, but has not changed much, and nothing on the dash is lit, all clear, seemingly
I had a judder sometimes when using the turbo and no extra power. This was very random and nothing in particular would trigger it. Turned out I needed new spark plugs
I was driving mine today and I've had the car since 69k. Now has 144k. Never had a problem until today. In a split second on my way home from work, it lost all power from the turbo. The gauge still goes up and down so I'm hoping it's just a boost leak. Gonna test it tomorrow. No check engine lights
Great video, however I do have a question. On my 2006 9-3t, when I give gas and the turbo engages, right near max boost, the engine RPM's will increase causing a higher rev, than usual. It is almost like with the accelerator down, the boots kicks in and the engine sounds and increases in RPM's as if I were depressing the clutch. Any ideas??
can this be related? my saab 9-3 ys3f 2.0t 2003 with the b207l 175hp engine seems to have an issue.. if its a coldstart(i know its not good for the engine etc. but i found this out after having the issue for a while) my turbo gauge cluster will go to MAX boost and my car runs great.. after it reaches operating temperatures its not going to full boost--> stoping before the red begins--> car runs fine but it has definetly less power.. u can feel it while driving. any tips? someone else had this issue? pls someone help!
Yeah my 09 is doing something very very similar, seems like at complete random my boost just doesn’t work, cold, hot, any gear, same trip, all different boost levels. I’ll snag one of these after checking the hoses, I also need a new rad cap.
I have the same problem with mine it will build up boost and then randomly it will just start only building up half boost and then I have to turn the car off and the on and then it works for a little bit again can any only help what this could be besides the boost control valve
Ok I will and just want to say thank you for all your videos man this is my second Saab I have owed because of you and both have been 9-3 the one I have rn is a 2003 2.0 9-3 manual and it is a amazing car kept making videos man because I love to watch them, we need more Saab people out there like you😂
2006 Saab 9-3 Turbo convertible. Can't get the back hose off of the control valve to switch it out. It turns easily but the hose/vacumn line is NOT budging off. Tried pliers, trying to get under it with needle nose- can't even get between where it butts up to plastic housing to try to pry it out. Help!
Hey, my 1.9 Tid 2006 is making the same issue, it has no power at all right now, i have to floor it to get at least 90km/h thing is this video is about petrol. My EGR is cleaned now, but this issue still is active
For the record it was code P0234, we disconnected the EGR and car took off like rocket. So i have to change EGR itself electric component is not working. Hope this helps someone with same problem. 😊
@@AutoAutopsy I looked everywhere about that code I don’t have it on hand rnow, but yes circuit low, don’t know exactly the meaning of it, thanks again
I have a 2006 9-3 2.0T I have been having issues with. It sat for the winter I was driving it around the past few weeks and was getting the stability control message intermittently. Yesterday while at a red light I hit the gas and it started to roll then lost power and shut off. Car would not crank or even click. The car sat over night and started this morning. I pulled out of the driveway and reversed ok hit the gas and again it was like hitting a wall car would not move no matter how much the gas was pushed. Reversed it fine and got it back in the driveway. I have started to check the hoses and cant find anything obvious. Anyone have ay ideas of the cause of this? The loss of power happened with what I would say is little to no warning. Car had an engine light on and then off. It came back on for about a week prior to this happening.
SAAB QUESTION: Having issue with heat. We replaced blower, resistor and resistor plug now heat comes on for 45 seconds to 2 minutes and then shuts back off by itself. Any suggestions would be GRATELY appreciated
@@JuggaloNY yes thats exactly what it needed. We changed the resistor and now its working perfectly. The issue I'm having now is since the last time it's rained we're getting an alarm ever minute or so saying "Manually close top before driving" however I know for sure it is closed as the button will still open and close the convertible top and there are no visible leaks so I am trying to find a way to either fix the issue or bypass the computer system.
@@JayDub_143 unfortunately I've never had a convertible I've always had a hard tops not sure I know my sunroof sometimes I have to put my hand up there hold this bar down so the sunroof can close otherwise it backs up like it hits the sensor and stays open not sure if that helps but maybe it's a sensor like that that maybe you could try to find
@@JuggaloNY I appreciate all your help!! I will check into the sensors too. I was told about a "Saab WIP Online"? Any idea what that is and if its reliable?
I had some misfiring and lost and intermittent boost on my 9-3 due to two ignition coils testing out at just below spec. Replaced the whole set as they were all pretty old and my full boost came back after about a week of driving. It was puzzling how the boost came back kind of gradually after the bad parts were replaced. 🤔
@@dandyfi4076 Next time you have something like that, disconnect the battery - some say 10 minutes works, others say overnight, but it “resets” the ECU of all the learning it’s done. Then take it on an adaption run - full throttle for, I think, 5 seconds, which basically means foot flat from 2,000rpm to 5,000rpm in 4th or 5th. You can google it and get better instructions!
@@AutoAutopsy I have poor performance issues at low RPMs. I swapt that booster but no luck, What was the issue for you? And what else should I look into? Thank you much for all of your videos
I have a 2011 saab turbo4 automatic my car seems to be loosing power while accelerating and I changed the crankshaft censor, spark plugs, coil packs did an oil change and it’s throwing a code for a camshaft censor but every time I try to order the part I’m told that my car doesn’t have that part 🤦🏼♀️ check engine light is on and it says time for a service
Order your parts from esaabparts and make sure you’re only buying OEM, especially parts like coils. These cars can be very particular when it comes to that kind of stuff!
Can someone please help me? I recently replaced my turbo I'm not sure if I mixed up the vaccum lines because the turbo is fluttering I think the diverter valve is not connected properly can anyone show me where the vaccume line for the diverter is coming from any help would be much appreciated.
@@AutoAutopsy thank you so much all sorted now but getting some smoke when ideling not sure if oil drain needs to be replaced and yesterday I started hearing like a crying noise when spooling
Any help would be greatly appreciated been to three garages my Turbo return line seems to be introducing extra pressure or possibly exhaust gases into the coolant system I still have heat the car drives the same as always boost still works but it's draining the Overflow container due to all the pressure one specialty European garage said that it was the equal and opposite vacuum pressure has anyone heard of this or is it easy fix I'm guessing not well I have to replace the turbo altogether where can I get away with replacing one of these boost pressure control valve or the other one. I did not know this but when I bought the car that turbo return line was blocked off with a bolt and hose clamp. I was driving it like that for awhile get a coolant flush and ever since then I've been having issues because I tried to fix the upper radiator hose and put the one with a t and reconnect turbo return coolant line
@@AutoAutopsy I did take it to a shop but they didn't have time to work on it until February was able to take a quick look at it though w snake camera look into the turbo and he said that there was coolant coming out of the seal well it was spinning he said under no pressure not sure what he meant by that I think the car wasn't running? Possibly you could clarify that so that's new info to me as well how big of a pain isn't do it turbo job on 08 93t 4 cylinder and does the engine need to come out or up both other shops that can get possibly get to it sooner said that they would probably have to raise the motor I didn't think that was necessary these two other shops are Not Specialty European shops. Like the first one I had it delivered to that was about 40 miles away so I wasn't able to see the work that they did but they do anything but look at it anyways thanks for getting back to me and Happy Thanksgiving
Try checking the diaphragm inside the dump valve just below the wastegate actuator, constant problem on this engine as they age,replaced many of them in my 20 years as a saab tech.a repair kit is available as a spare part,good luck
I have been having this issue for a long time now. Car will stop making boost all together. As if the computer is telling the solenoid or vice versa to not allow the turbo to make boost. Sometimes it throws code p0033 and I have to clear code. Once cleared car makes boost again, other times it will do it with no code, and if I shut the car down, and restart it, I will have boost again. Issues started a couple weeks after installing a direct bolt on kinugawa vent to atmosphere style blow off valve. Car functioned just fine with it for a few weeks, and this issue started up out of no where. My tuner was able to go into the tune and mess with the maf reading calibration somehow (think he allowed more time in between reading's to compensate for the air being vented rather than recirculating) And issue went away for a year or two. Issue randomly came back and tuner has played with it many times, unable to get it to function properly again. I tried going back to stock diverter valve, and issue was still there. I'm about at my witt's end with it lol I am about to replace all vacuum lines as a feeble attempt and the peace of mind of having that ruled out. If does not work I will try replacing both solenoid's. I'm skeptical that either is gonna correct my issue though. Anyone know what else I should be checking for here? Typical response I have been able to find online is to replace the diaphragm inside the stock diverter valve, but since I am not running stock, does not help me here lol thanks in advance anyone that may be able to shed some light here
Need some help. I have a 2004 Saab 93 2.0t I had a bad radiator hose and overheated it. After the first overheat, the car sounded different when cranking it over. Almost like it had less compression and wouldn't start like it used. Only way I could start it when cold was if I pumped the gas peddle fast repeatedly till it would start. When started it sounded and ran as normal. Only issue like I said, sounded different when cranking and needed to pump the peddle to get it to start up. After I overheated the car the second time, sounded about the same, but now when I pump the gas peddle it doesn't wanna start. Doesn't come close to starting. Is it likely I damaged the ECU from overheating? Or possibly something else or a sensor I'm not aware of? Maybe the vehicle has some sorta mechanism that protects it from further damage and something needs to be reset? I can't afford to bring it to a mechanic, so any info/help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Damn I might have sold my Saab 9-5 2.0 because of this pressure valve. I checked my car and it had a ton of misfires, got me Check Engine Light every other 3 drives if driving super chill, immediately if I went into boost. I saw that one day a hose was loose, so I tried to re-attach it but the male part on the pressure valve broke off, lel
Very nice. I will try this way later. My Saab 93 2.0T 2006 B207 it keep show me Limite performance then the turbo hand it keep on 12 O clock. And I checked it. No codes, but when I kill the code the turbo hand can almost to the red zone a few times lol. Anyone got same problems 🥲
The old intake hoses is broke and I change BSR intake and intake hoses. But still got same problem. Sometimes my Saab did not show me the limited performance but it will lock my turbo too🤐
I just replaced both solenoids for boost issue and didn't fixed. P0033 code.. I check diaphram for recirculation valve and gasket crumbled when took 3 bolts off.. hoping adding new gasket will fix issue
I didn't have any cruise control whatsoever. The engine start it dying and sometimes it went and shut off. Unless I reset the e c m it was the map sensor
great to have young man who loves the old Saabs and knows how to care for them. Sadly mechanics have walked away from working on Saabs. So sad to let go of my Saab 9-3 convertible which only has 72,000 miles on it. It's like parting with a dear friend.
That’s a shame :( sorry to hear…
It is a bigger problem in Canada because Saab no longer exists. I get parts from Saracuse NY and there is one Swedish car specialist. 5 hour from my house.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! The check engine light came on in my 2005 9-3 and the code was for a bad bypass valve or hose. New valve was only ~$40. Quick and easy fix (besides the hoses being really difficult to remove).
awesome!!
I've had some similiar issues with my 09 Aero. I changed all the vacuumlines and lubricated the wastegate arm. So far so good 🤔
I replaced mine thinking it was a turbo issue but ended up being MISFIRES. Shows how much car knowledge I have.😂😂 I've learned so much this past year thankfully my car is running great now
lol great! we all live and learn; i have done the same countless times
I had a similar issue with my 04 93. Would build slight boost then shutter around half way on the boost gauge and wouldn't fully spool the turbo until about 4k rpm. Checked all the vacuum lines and the BPC valve it ended up being the bypass control valve located next to the throttle body mounted on the engine cover bracket, looks very similar to the BPC valve but different part number
interesting. thanks for sharing
Thanks man I’m having that same issue
Great advice on those control solenoids!
There is another one mounted on top of the intake near the Throttle body, that controls the blowoff valve. Visually identical, but different part number. Each of those is about $45 new from Eeuro. Easy replacements and really woke my 05 ARC up a few years ago. My symptom was if I floored it, the boost would hit less than full and then wither away even more within seconds. Both replaced, problem solved. Glad yours was the boost hose, as that is another example of an easy check and fix.
oh nice! i must've missed the second one lol
Great video, If you're modifying the power at all, one of the first things to change are the intercooler soft pipes, for some silicon pipes. I kept on bursting top pipes on my 2006 95 Estate (Edna facelift version) with the 1.9TiD 150bhp Z19DTH engine from Fiat. I had 205bhp and it turned out that the top pipe expanded like a balloon to keep rubbing on an object next to it. I only foud out after revving it up with hte bonnet open and looking through the gap under the wipers as I revved.
Yep, good tip. That's why companies like do88 include silicone pipes when you upgrade the IC!
Changed whole vacuum system over to silicone - made considerable difference to my 2.0 9.3 Aero - original vacuum pipes looked ok until smoke test revealed leaks from concertina on bend of cobra pipe from turbo to air filter - removing rubber vacuum pipes revealed perishing at back that could not be seen when in place - 2 metres of 6mm vacuum pipe did all of them with loads to spare - have been trying to solve uneven idle from cold for a few weeks - throttle body failed in exceptional
UK heatwave - car was un drive-able in 1st and 2nd gear about 15mph flat out !
Secondhand throttle body cured it - now getting about 26 mpg with stage 1 remap
Busy doing rustproofing at moment in UK with outstanding
Bilt Hamber cavity wax - product comes in aerosol with 30 cm lance that sprays 360 degree- perfect for treating behind plastic wheel liners without dismantling - also great for doing Aero body skirts as you can get cavity wax onto body that rusts out of sight !
thanks for the tips
thank you for this you fixed my cel (P0035) and lack of boost pressure 🙏 just got a 9-3 and whoever worked on the car last got that clamp on the connector loose somehow. put it in right, cleared the code, and went for a test drive. now getting full boost and the cel has not returned.
Yikes! Glad you got it fixed
Thanks for the video. I have high hopes my similar problem goes away soon, once I've got the part and install it. It's really fun to watch your videos. Keep up the good work. Btw. It's really remarkable how your cars don't ever have the slightest of rust. You often complain about the heat, but it goes to show that your Sonoran climate definitely also has it's benefits, right? In Scandinavia, our SAABs rust away relentlessly.
Any luck with this repair
Just changed mine on my 2.8 for maybe the third time. I've been getting the Porsche Pierberg one, on eeuroparts and you can buy on eBay too for less money. I've been told and seen on forums that the Porsche one tends to hold higher boost and the same direct fit. I am on stage 3 Maptun so this might be my culprit 9/10 times. I know once before it was my brake booster hose in back of the engine bay that was cracked.
interesting...i'll have to look into that
@@WillSnider which year and model?
2006 Saab turbo feels like it’s choking when accelerating to much(possibly when turbo is kicking in) runs well during idle & when not putting your foot on it. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
Waste gate it's self is going or you have a throttle pedal issue
I have a Saab that the turbo gauge won’t red line. No leaks but I’m wondering if that’s normal or I should try this?
Hi Andy! LOL I miss You, but I can't say I could ever understand what the heck You were talking about socially. There are about 20 people who will NOT let anyone live. Thanks for the info!
My 2011 SAAB 93 just got check engine light, it is p0033 code, what should i do? just replace the control valve?
Yes, that should fix it. Did it work?
Hello, love your channel. Recently my 2005 Saab 93 Arc, displayed a Gearbox Malfunction Error, call service. The Transmission oil seems burnt, my friend told me to do a drain and fill and change the transmission filter. Are you familiar with this issue, if so how to solve it. Thank you.
Thanks man. Dealing with boost issues on my "new" 2011 9-3 2.0T xwd 128k miles (with a replaced 2010 b207r 90k miles)(nice lookin car!). Its been throwing up a turbo wastegate solenoid error (can't remember the code off the top of my head) and all 4 "camshaft sensor" errors (P0340) all at once on startup. Put original coils back in, checked/changed the plugs to some good quality @ .039, but its still just not delivering the expected power. Don't think there's any leaks as it pulls a vacuum and reads a few lbs of boost in the lower end, but getting up into the gears (6sp semiauto), it just doesn't seem to deliver the juice from the turbo. Something is amiss... Thanks for the video bc this was my next target. Going to have it checked out, but I am anxious to get this thing working before possibly getting some upgrades!
Worried it may be something else or the shop that replaced the engine didn't put everything back properly.
im not really sure!
Thank you very much for what you're doing, this is very helpful!
Code saying replace Turbocharger Boost control valve ....2007 9-3 2.0T. Thank you!👍😊
Guys, just be aware that under plastic cover near throttle, there is another one (looking similar) but with different part number. Check part no. before ordering.
what are you referring to exactly? yes, always check PN's for sure
@@AutoAutopsy that was just small tip if someone wants to buy new part as it is easy to make mistake :)
Yes they look identical, but different part numbers. If you compare them side by side, the metal vacuum nipples on the solenoids, have a different size inner diameter. So be careful not to mix these up, they are 100% different, despite looking identical
Hey so I had to replace spark plugs, coil packs, airfilter and oil change after my Saab got flooded out so it’s running now but I am not hearing my turbo boost at all and it’s laggy. Is there something I should look for because it’s running but it’s getting way better gas mileage now but has no power to it really. Help me!
Please take the time to respond. I know you are busy and I know this video is quite old. What is the name of the part at the very front of your airbox close to the headlights? There is a hose covering that circle on your airbox. Mine is missing and I am having a problem with boost. I have changed and cleaned everything. I’m going to check the hose by the intercooler and hope that it’s not loose, but I want to put the part on the airbox because when I bought the car, mine is not showing that part
that is the secondary air injection. if your car is not a 2003 or 2011, it won't have it and it should be blocked off.
@@AutoAutopsy ok I have a 2010 aero with a 2.0 turbo it has a cover over it so that explains the trouble that I’m having is I really don’t know where to start. I bought the car used. I thought it needed some spark plugs so I purchased some spark plugs. I had the new OEM coil packs. The guy let me have them. He left them with the car as he did not have time to work on the car anymore. He was a older, retired guy and I think his wife was just ready for him to get rid of the car so I don’t have much power in the car like I did in my 2007 so I can tell I am lacking in power I change the lower O2 sensor and it feels better when it’s running in first second and third, but it shakes when I get in fourth gear if I drop it back down to third gear, it will go away. I can drive on the freeway high speed, but it causes shaking. I read about cleaning the ionazation part and I did it had blue corrosion all on it I cleaned and sprayed by MAF feels slightly better but it’s not giving me that take off speed like a true saab should
Thanks for these mate! Huge help.
🙌🏼👍🏼
Having the same issues with mine. Sometimes boosting like it should other times not. Post an update later and tell if the issue is still gone.
still is gone
Me too 9-3 2.0 it builds up prefect but couple miles down or whatever it builds but won’t build all the way any suggestions??
@@nathanmedina4392Replace Boost Control valve should fix it. Did it work?
@@morecapri6914yes sir it worked
@@nathanmedina4392 Great, thanks🫡
What can you tell me about the dreaded "steering malfunction" message? I have a 06 9 3 Aero convertible. I have replaced the battery and installed a mini fuse by pass switch and no go...???
Saab 9-3 straight from 2004 here does a similar thing, the boost start around 1700/1800 rpm, then suddenly the turbo stops completely at around 2300rpm, then when passes 2500 rpm turns back on boost, engine is the fiat 1.9 tid 150hp, any clue? My meccanich already changed the turbo, but has not changed much, and nothing on the dash is lit, all clear, seemingly
Really helpful video good camera angle
👍🏼👊🏼
I had a judder sometimes when using the turbo and no extra power. This was very random and nothing in particular would trigger it. Turned out I needed new spark plugs
Isn’t this fed with boost air (not vacuum)??
So is that considered the wastegate solenoid? I got a wastegate solenoid circuit A low
Hi friend. I have Saab 9-3 1.8T manuel bensin, 2003. I've got P0033. Is this about this problem?
Mine does the same, changed the same bit as well 🤣🤣 I'll investigate a bit further once it warms up a bit here in the UK 👍
I was driving mine today and I've had the car since 69k. Now has 144k. Never had a problem until today. In a split second on my way home from work, it lost all power from the turbo. The gauge still goes up and down so I'm hoping it's just a boost leak. Gonna test it tomorrow. No check engine lights
Good luck! Hope you ended up finding the solution. Could be that something just popped off
@AutoAutopsy thanks it randomly fixed itself so no boost leak. Very weird problem. Maybe the waste gate got stuck?
Great video, however I do have a question. On my 2006 9-3t, when I give gas and the turbo engages, right near max boost, the engine RPM's will increase causing a higher rev, than usual. It is almost like with the accelerator down, the boots kicks in and the engine sounds and increases in RPM's as if I were depressing the clutch. Any ideas??
Sorry to inform you but you need a new clutch very soon.
Nive one. But how do u test the wastegate mine won't always boost 100% checked all other mentioned is all good
can this be related?
my saab 9-3 ys3f 2.0t 2003 with the b207l 175hp engine seems to have an issue..
if its a coldstart(i know its not good for the engine etc. but i found this out after having the issue for a while) my turbo gauge cluster will go to MAX boost and my car runs great..
after it reaches operating temperatures its not going to full boost--> stoping before the red begins--> car runs fine but it has definetly less power.. u can feel it while driving.
any tips? someone else had this issue? pls someone help!
It kind of just sounds like a tuned 9-3 with a stock intercooler. The car gets hot and it won’t boost as much anymore. Does warm weather affect this?
Yeah my 09 is doing something very very similar, seems like at complete random my boost just doesn’t work, cold, hot, any gear, same trip, all different boost levels. I’ll snag one of these after checking the hoses, I also need a new rad cap.
good luck! these cars don't have radiator caps; i assume you mean coolant tank cap
Any luck
@@ZOMG1001 Drove it to the crusher, was glorious.
Pretty sure there is a second one under the plastic engine cover but glad you noticed that plastic hose was 1/2 off!
There is another one, looking like this one but it has different part number.
I have same problem p0234 overboost, where is that sensor on a 1.9 TiD 150hp? IK will order and replace it
I’m not familiar with the diesels unfortunately (we didn’t get them in the US)
@@AutoAutopsy nevermind found it right under the bonnet near lock latch in middle. Thanks anyway!
Outstanding video
I have the same problem with mine it will build up boost and then randomly it will just start only building up half boost and then I have to turn the car off and the on and then it works for a little bit again can any only help what this could be besides the boost control valve
I’d start with this as a fix
Ok I will and just want to say thank you for all your videos man this is my second Saab I have owed because of you and both have been 9-3 the one I have rn is a 2003 2.0 9-3 manual and it is a amazing car kept making videos man because I love to watch them, we need more Saab people out there like you😂
I replaced it but that didn’t fix it you know what else it could be
@@cameronstachowiak67Well how did you fix it? I have the same problem
2006 Saab 9-3 Turbo convertible. Can't get the back hose off of the control valve to switch it out. It turns easily but the hose/vacumn line is NOT budging off. Tried pliers, trying to get under it with needle nose- can't even get between where it butts up to plastic housing to try to pry it out. Help!
you could cut a slit in the line down the nipple and it will come off then - try not to cut too much off
That's what I wound up doing. But now it's slipping off, may have to put a clamp on it.@@AutoAutopsy
Do you think my bad exhaust leak from a broken stud would make me loose power ?
it could but you might have another issue somewhere
Hey, my 1.9 Tid 2006 is making the same issue, it has no power at all right now, i have to floor it to get at least 90km/h thing is this video is about petrol.
My EGR is cleaned now, but this issue still is active
that's a completely different motor so im not sure. i would try posting online and scan codes if you have any lights on
For the record it was code P0234, we disconnected the EGR and car took off like rocket. So i have to change EGR itself electric component is not working.
Hope this helps someone with same problem. 😊
I REPLACED MINE BUT SOMETIMES THE LIGHT COMES ON TELING ME THE TURBO BOOST CIRCUIT IS LOW, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS A RELAY ISSUE
what is the exact code? try typing it into google; there is likely a forum thread on it
@@AutoAutopsy I looked everywhere about that code I don’t have it on hand rnow, but yes circuit low, don’t know exactly the meaning of it, thanks again
Mines making a weird funny noise like a buzzing noise I installed a new one and it’s still there any advice ? I kinda sounds electrical
It’s hard to know from that description. I would take a video of the sound and post it on some Saab Facebook groups
@@AutoAutopsy I did mate they all say it’s the same thing but it’s a brand new one installed. I also read online it’s normal ?
I have a 2006 9-3 2.0T I have been having issues with. It sat for the winter I was driving it around the past few weeks and was getting the stability control message intermittently. Yesterday while at a red light I hit the gas and it started to roll then lost power and shut off. Car would not crank or even click. The car sat over night and started this morning. I pulled out of the driveway and reversed ok hit the gas and again it was like hitting a wall car would not move no matter how much the gas was pushed. Reversed it fine and got it back in the driveway. I have started to check the hoses and cant find anything obvious. Anyone have ay ideas of the cause of this? The loss of power happened with what I would say is little to no warning. Car had an engine light on and then off. It came back on for about a week prior to this happening.
could this be a reason for fault codes on injectors and P0245 (common fault for ECU failure) ?
If you have the four injector codes and the P0245, it’s definitely the ECU on its way out!
On 9.3 2006 b207e fuel pressure low around 35 psi. Any idea on culprit. No misfire, drives fine, idles low and takes two turn of key to start.
Maybe it’s the FPR but couldn’t be certain!
@@AutoAutopsy yes had same thought, seems operate ok. Cannot get part here in Oz , will have to order from US rockauto.
I’m not to sure what to do my 9-3 rpms will be fine but the the boost gets to max my car gets jumpy does anyone know what it could be?
Misfire. Probably plugs or coils: ua-cam.com/video/xJyNJzFX2JI/v-deo.html
@@AutoAutopsy thank you! I’ll check that out
SAAB QUESTION: Having issue with heat. We replaced blower, resistor and resistor plug now heat comes on for 45 seconds to 2 minutes and then shuts back off by itself. Any suggestions would be GRATELY appreciated
i'd see if there's any tech2 codes relating to it; i'm not sure what the issue could be
I had a similar issue I just replaced top little computer part on the blower underneath passenger side glove box
@@JuggaloNY yes thats exactly what it needed. We changed the resistor and now its working perfectly. The issue I'm having now is since the last time it's rained we're getting an alarm ever minute or so saying "Manually close top before driving" however I know for sure it is closed as the button will still open and close the convertible top and there are no visible leaks so I am trying to find a way to either fix the issue or bypass the computer system.
@@JayDub_143 unfortunately I've never had a convertible I've always had a hard tops not sure I know my sunroof sometimes I have to put my hand up there hold this bar down so the sunroof can close otherwise it backs up like it hits the sensor and stays open not sure if that helps but maybe it's a sensor like that that maybe you could try to find
@@JuggaloNY I appreciate all your help!! I will check into the sensors too. I was told about a "Saab WIP Online"? Any idea what that is and if its reliable?
Is this in the same location on a 06 9 3 Aero 2.8 V-6 ,thanks
Similar, yes. Same exact part located right by the turbo
I had some misfiring and lost and intermittent boost on my 9-3 due to two ignition coils testing out at just below spec. Replaced the whole set as they were all pretty old and my full boost came back after about a week of driving. It was puzzling how the boost came back kind of gradually after the bad parts were replaced. 🤔
Did you disconnect the battery when you changed the DI pack? Did you you do an adaption run ?
Nope. Glad the boost eventually stayed back.
@@dandyfi4076 Next time you have something like that, disconnect the battery - some say 10 minutes works, others say overnight, but it “resets” the ECU of all the learning it’s done. Then take it on an adaption run - full throttle for, I think, 5 seconds, which basically means foot flat from 2,000rpm to 5,000rpm in 4th or 5th. You can google it and get better instructions!
Good to know.) Thanks! 👍
I need to replace my Actuator on on my saab 93 aero how do I make sure I find the right on
Look at the part number on your current one and search it online. Esaabparts should have it
Do the numbers have to be the same on the new one ???
the part number? it should be if you ordered an OEM one
Mine does the same but I have a 2.8L 93 2006, any ideas where that valve is?
literally right next to the turbo; can't miss it.
@@AutoAutopsy I have poor performance issues at low RPMs. I swapt that booster but no luck, What was the issue for you? And what else should I look into? Thank you much for all of your videos
Why are you not drivning on your BSR Cold intake anymore?
It kept giving me P0101 so i removed it: ua-cam.com/video/JFsObvw6pUE/v-deo.html
I have a 2011 saab turbo4 automatic my car seems to be loosing power while accelerating and I changed the crankshaft censor, spark plugs, coil packs did an oil change and it’s throwing a code for a camshaft censor but every time I try to order the part I’m told that my car doesn’t have that part 🤦🏼♀️ check engine light is on and it says time for a service
Order your parts from esaabparts and make sure you’re only buying OEM, especially parts like coils. These cars can be very particular when it comes to that kind of stuff!
Can someone please help me? I recently replaced my turbo I'm not sure if I mixed up the vaccum lines because the turbo is fluttering I think the diverter valve is not connected properly can anyone show me where the vaccume line for the diverter is coming from any help would be much appreciated.
I’d look on esaabparts. There’s probably parts diagrams showing where the lines are. Or Saab WIS
@@AutoAutopsy thank you so much all sorted now but getting some smoke when ideling not sure if oil drain needs to be replaced and yesterday I started hearing like a crying noise when spooling
Thank you😁
😃👍🏼
Is this part the same for the B284 V6 2.8?
yep, that's why i swapped the one from my TX in
Any help would be greatly appreciated been to three garages my Turbo return line seems to be introducing extra pressure or possibly exhaust gases into the coolant system I still have heat the car drives the same as always boost still works but it's draining the Overflow container due to all the pressure one specialty European garage said that it was the equal and opposite vacuum pressure has anyone heard of this or is it easy fix I'm guessing not well I have to replace the turbo altogether where can I get away with replacing one of these boost pressure control valve or the other one. I did not know this but when I bought the car that turbo return line was blocked off with a bolt and hose clamp. I was driving it like that for awhile get a coolant flush and ever since then I've been having issues because I tried to fix the upper radiator hose and put the one with a t and reconnect turbo return coolant line
have you taken it to a Saab shop? Or posted on Saab FB groups?
@@AutoAutopsy I did take it to a shop but they didn't have time to work on it until February was able to take a quick look at it though w snake camera look into the turbo and he said that there was coolant coming out of the seal well it was spinning he said under no pressure not sure what he meant by that I think the car wasn't running? Possibly you could clarify that so that's new info to me as well how big of a pain isn't do it turbo job on 08 93t 4 cylinder and does the engine need to come out or up both other shops that can get possibly get to it sooner said that they would probably have to raise the motor I didn't think that was necessary these two other shops are Not Specialty European shops. Like the first one I had it delivered to that was about 40 miles away so I wasn't able to see the work that they did but they do anything but look at it anyways thanks for getting back to me and Happy Thanksgiving
@@AutoAutopsy no I have not to the Facebook groups. That's a good idea. Do you have specific any recommendations on that?
Try checking the diaphragm inside the dump valve just below the wastegate actuator, constant problem on this engine as they age,replaced many of them in my 20 years as a saab tech.a repair kit is available as a spare part,good luck
issue is now solved as stated, but thank you!
I have been having this issue for a long time now. Car will stop making boost all together. As if the computer is telling the solenoid or vice versa to not allow the turbo to make boost. Sometimes it throws code p0033 and I have to clear code. Once cleared car makes boost again, other times it will do it with no code, and if I shut the car down, and restart it, I will have boost again. Issues started a couple weeks after installing a direct bolt on kinugawa vent to atmosphere style blow off valve. Car functioned just fine with it for a few weeks, and this issue started up out of no where. My tuner was able to go into the tune and mess with the maf reading calibration somehow (think he allowed more time in between reading's to compensate for the air being vented rather than recirculating) And issue went away for a year or two. Issue randomly came back and tuner has played with it many times, unable to get it to function properly again. I tried going back to stock diverter valve, and issue was still there. I'm about at my witt's end with it lol I am about to replace all vacuum lines as a feeble attempt and the peace of mind of having that ruled out. If does not work I will try replacing both solenoid's. I'm skeptical that either is gonna correct my issue though. Anyone know what else I should be checking for here? Typical response I have been able to find online is to replace the diaphragm inside the stock diverter valve, but since I am not running stock, does not help me here lol thanks in advance anyone that may be able to shed some light here
Just replaced mine we shall see if I notice the diff
:)
Need some help. I have a 2004 Saab 93 2.0t I had a bad radiator hose and overheated it. After the first overheat, the car sounded different when cranking it over. Almost like it had less compression and wouldn't start like it used. Only way I could start it when cold was if I pumped the gas peddle fast repeatedly till it would start. When started it sounded and ran as normal. Only issue like I said, sounded different when cranking and needed to pump the peddle to get it to start up. After I overheated the car the second time, sounded about the same, but now when I pump the gas peddle it doesn't wanna start. Doesn't come close to starting. Is it likely I damaged the ECU from overheating? Or possibly something else or a sensor I'm not aware of? Maybe the vehicle has some sorta mechanism that protects it from further damage and something needs to be reset? I can't afford to bring it to a mechanic, so any info/help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Damn I might have sold my Saab 9-5 2.0 because of this pressure valve. I checked my car and it had a ton of misfires, got me Check Engine Light every other 3 drives if driving super chill, immediately if I went into boost.
I saw that one day a hose was loose, so I tried to re-attach it but the male part on the pressure valve broke off, lel
Unfortunately those old plastics can get quite brittle
@@AutoAutopsy I looked online, and couldn't find it anywhere. Do you know where those parts might be sold?
Can someone give the code number for this boost control valve .. I get cheat buying this thru online .. my car is Saab 93 2.0t
just search the part on www.esaabparts.com. they will have the part number
Coils?
Po236..changed the sensor but still getting the same code..
see what else others have tried by searching the code in google
Hi. Do you have part number for that?? I have a 2007 9-3T
I have the same issue
What code error number appears in your scanner related to this valve...
If this part will fail it would not give you any error (most of cases) :)
İyigünler lütfen videolara Türkçe altyazı eklermisiniz teşekkürler 👍😎👍
Very nice. I will try this way later.
My Saab 93 2.0T 2006 B207 it keep show me Limite performance then the turbo hand it keep on 12 O clock.
And I checked it. No codes, but when I kill the code the turbo hand can almost to the red zone a few times lol. Anyone got same problems 🥲
The old intake hoses is broke and I change BSR intake and intake hoses. But still got same problem. Sometimes my Saab did not show me the limited performance but it will lock my turbo too🤐
check your charge pipes
or you can just clean the solenoid. it needs to be opened first
How would I know if my boost valve needs changed? Thanks
that's what this video explains.
I'm the First comment
🏆
Thanks for the trophy ryan!
***PROBLEM SOLVED: MAKE A GASKET BETWEEN THE TURBO AND TURBO BYPASS VALVE. -KNOWN DESIGN FLAW.***
why tho?
@@AutoAutopsy metal on metal contact w/o gasket its like installing throttle body w/o gasket.
I just replaced both solenoids for boost issue and didn't fixed. P0033 code.. I check diaphram for recirculation valve and gasket crumbled when took 3 bolts off.. hoping adding new gasket will fix issue
@@ericbeard7007 did you fix your p0033 error with new gasket? thx.
I didn't have any cruise control whatsoever. The engine start it dying and sometimes it went and shut off. Unless I reset the e c m it was the map sensor