Best video that finally explained how it all works together. One point, my K1 Max has the LIDAR and therefore I could not find the screw on the left to take the cover off. I left the cover in place and just did my work with the extruder attached.
Dude, you just saved me like 3+ hours of frustration. Wow, I almost certainly would have broken something trying to figure out why my brand new K1C stopped printing after the first test print. Back in business, thanks to your tutorial.
Dropped on this vid, trying to learn what was causing my issue. Mangled filament inside my extruder was the cause. Thank you for a detailed and well explained solution, especially "watch for glued in place connectors...." I am tactile dysfunctional at the best of times, so that saved me a costly correction. Again excellent work, from a 1 day old maker's stand point, I couldn't of asked for a better guide!
Great instructions, it got my printer working again. I took a short cut by just unscrewing the three extruded screws and carefully pulling the motor vertically. You have to be careful not to damage the stepper motor wires
Wish I'd done that. When I pulled the glue off the breakout board connector it brought one side of the connector with it and 3 wires popped out. Trying to figure out what type of connector I need to get to replace it. Benn through my JST set and not seeing anything similar.
Awesome! Just saved my life!! I didn't have the guts to disconnect any cables so I serviced the extruder in the machine, dangling from its cable - still worked! 😂
nice video and I appreciate showing how to prevent the issue and just not fix. I ended up skipping taking off the front by just unlooping the wires in the back. that gave me enough loose wire to mess with the extruder without unplugging it. if it becomes more of a problem, i'll modify the printer head so the motor is flipped and accessibly from the back.
Thank you mate, that really helped, despite I had another issue with some residue filament. On my Ender3plus I could heat up the hotend, wait until a certain temperature and then pull the old filament out. No problem since I learned that. On this machine the way I learned from you is crucial and important!! Here is what I have done: I took out the extruder and it turned fine. So it was obviously not the sam issue you mentioned. Then I took out the nozzle, which also was fine and clean. When I looked into the hotend from the top, I couldn't see the bed, so something must be stuck inside. Cleaning from the top with this long metal rod didn't help. I could feel there was something in there. When pushing from the nozzle side upwards (with the rod) the filament residue came out and I could put all together and print again. Okay, Crealty. It would be fine to let customers know the correct way to put in and out the filament. THAT is crucial and belongs on a tiny piece of paper. The printer came with a ton of stuff and stickers nobody needs. A little piece of paper, guys, and you get more love back for this (still fine!) machine. Well, at one point there comes the time to learn how to take it apart. But not after three prints. I bet in a lot of cases this could have been avoided. Yes, it was my fault doing it wrong. Next time I know better. With the help of the Embrace Making guy. Thank you!
helped me alot, when i pulled the motor, it had like a 5cm long filament stuck like a sword hahaha, if you had the same issue, try it with no fear, it isnt that hard, just be carefull with the glue
I had a small piece of filament rattling around in my extruder that got stuck in there when my filament spool tangled up on the back.. The glue was troublesome but with some time and patience like you said it comes off fairly easily just take your time. My extruder gears were extremely clean in comparison but overall with a little patience this is totally doable for anyone with good eyeballs
For the people coming here now, what is being suggested could very well temporarily fix it but the actual issue is that the hotend itself and the extruder, if you have one of the earlier machines, are faulty and they'll replace them for free if you ask and they're made of different things, they're better
Yes the first revision of the extruder is known to be a problem. This might help as you suggest but if you have a first gen extruder reach out to Creality for replacement!
why even updated extruder gears still plastic? isnt metal gears would be better? anyway to upgrade that gears myself? they are something standard like i can find in hardware shop?
Thanks for making and posting this detailed outline!!! I had a different, and odd, blockage. The Extruder motor could not drive the gears. I could not manually move the filament inwards or outwards. After removing the extruder to see what might be going on, I could not disassemble it due to the filament still being inside, so I just "had" to use pointed pliers to 'leverage' agains the housing to get the filament dragged out. Then I could disassemble it fully. And inside there was NOTHING amiss at all. No shavings of filament or metal etc. It was all operating perfectly. But I could not see any reason as to why the filament had become "imovable", except by quite extreme force (leverage with pliers). But anyway, all is fine now, and you video made it easy to do all the correct steps to get there! Oh... I have the K1 Max, so you also need to remove the LIDAR to get access to the left front cover bolt. You only need to undo its two screws and let it hang aside there.
@@troygales9363 I have just had the same issue with a K1 Max. I was using the eSun PLA+ filament and they hook the filament onto the spool. So when it ran out the extruder kept going and wore part of the filament away and over heated the plastic in the nozzle, cooked it for about 4 hours. I followed the instructions, as above removed the lidar unit. I did not take the nozzle out but I did probe it with the long pin. Reassembled and its printing right now.
Hey, your advise was great to me. I am service engineer but for big Industry machines and this tiny Unit was a new experience for me. my K1 is back online and ready to print. Appriciate you help video very much. 😎 My mistake was to print PLA with ABS Tempereature and when I realized what happen, it was much too late and my nozzel and all other were jammed with blue PLA 🤯
Glad it was helpful! You might have experienced heat creep with the ABS settings where some of your PLA became soft inside of the heat break tube and then jammed. Glad you got it fixed though!
The filament jam inside the extruder gear mechanism is caused by: The filament being too soft, hence, when the gears try to push it through the tiny hole, it blobs up and blocks the exit. Many factors can create this scenario. In my case, I am printing PLA on a hot summer day, and I also kept the whole printer enclosed. The ambient temp combined with the printing temps of the hotend and bed caused the clog. The solution for me is: Opening the top cover and door while printing PLA, lowering bed temp to 50 instead of 60, ensuring back ventilation fan is turned on an functioning.
Lucky you, looks like you got the updated extruder design. I landed a early model that doesn’t properly tension itself. My k1 is a paperweight until creality gets me the upgrade kit.
is the k1 worth buying now after creality fixed the hotend/extruder issue?...planning to buy my first printer for my robotics project which requires a lot of iterative prototyping design
So far I've been having a really good time with mine despite this little extruder jam hiccup. I believe you can get the K1 on sale (right now?) for considerably less than a Bambu P1P so there is a lot of value here. Now I've never owned a Bambu P1P so take my opinion with a grain of salt... but from what I've read online if you have the extra $$ the Bambu printer might be a little easier to start with out of the box and they *may* have also worked out more of the bugs at this point. Generally you get a better price on the Creality machines but you also have to do a little more tinkering. This is all very general speak based on my experience in the past but I wish I had a a comparable Bambu labs printer to say for certain. You may also want to look at the Qidi printers. I have a test model I've been playing around with and they will be sending me a more refined version in September, but even their first model is very good and you get a bigger build area in the same price range as the K1 / P1P
Wonderful and useful video. I am having a difficult time removing the silicone boot that covers the excruder. You seem to just twist it and it came off, but when I twist, I afraid that I will damage the excruder. Any suggestion?
Thank you! Yes it takes some time to work loose... you have to very carefully pry it and pull on it especially after it has been through so many hot/cold cycles and if there has been plastic melted to it. It will take time, just be careful when prying with a screwdriver, you may puncture or tear it. Always good to have a spare or two on hand.
I've had this happen twice now before realizing I need to unload the filament more carefully. Both times the filament actually got stuck in extruder cover, not the gears directly. I wonder if a longer retract cycle in unload macro (to make sure the filament clears the gears) would solve this? Also, I just unscrew the extruder assembly, pull it out, and unscrew the extruder from the motor without unplugging it or taking the front cover off. Makes it a lot quicker.
Good idea about removing the motor separate, that's a nice shortcut. With the longer retract I don't think it's going to fix it though... I have a feeling the retract is long enough as it is but what is happening is that the filament path from hotend to extruder is very short, so when the retract happens the end of the filament is still hot and mushy... it's those extruder gears that are probably trying to pull it out completely but it's getting stretched and squished and deformed between the gears and the gears can no longer grip it to force it out completely. Longer retract won't help as you'll just continue spinning over the squished filament. This is my guess, but you can always try?
@EmbraceMaking That's a good point, probably not going to help. What I want to try (at some point) is to set a retraction in the end-print gcode or macro large enough to just clear the heartbreak, similar to what you would do on a Revo. This should at least help when you want to change filament when the nozzle is cold, so you can just pull out the filament without melting it first.
Thank you so much! for me it was a different problem, but the same solution a piece of fillament broke just under the extruder and before nozzle and blocked everything -_-
Thanks a lot for this Vid! exactly my issue - and perfectly explaint resolution. It was even easy to work on (and that's coming from a clumsy one ;) thanks and greets from Austria, Mario
Hello, my issue has gone beyond a clog. I have a large clump of filament around the hot end and when I tried to remove it, I disconnected the lighting wire. When I want to know is, how can I clean all that filament?
thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
Ok. I followed your instructions and removed the extruder which was clogged and also removed the nozzle, but after I cleared the motor and gears, I still got a piece of PLA stuck between extruder and nozzle. How do I take that apart/remove it. its not coming out at all and currently broken off at the base.
I have a K1C and every time I try and change filament, I hit retract at 220 and wait for it to finish then unlock and pull out, but lately it has been frozen every time o try and remove it as if it was still locked in. I think what it happening for me is that when it heats and extracts the filament I think it is pulling molten pla out and then ramming it back into the barrel of the hot end flattening it out and making it impossible to remove.
Troquei o hotend da minha pois ele derreteu o suporte me mandou outro mais ainda está saindo fumaça cheiro de queimado a capa de silicone do Hothend está derretendo acontecendo a mesma coisa q a anterior poderia me ajudar
Great video, I had a multiple jam disaster, both in the gears of the feeder , in the little feeder tube between the feeder and the heater and the nozzle was blocked too. Unfortunately I broke the heater assembly trying to remove the frozen nozzle, but I had the spare one that came eith the machine so hapy days, once that was out I could free the passage all through, however I did not put the big rubber texture gasket back. Its all working OK and that gasket was SUCH a pain to get off I am reluctant to put the new one back, any views??
Appreciate the video, but I'm unable to tell the orientation of the extruder connector as it's in the shadows when removed and the video skips over the reinstall. Mine poped out, which colored wire goes on top?
I bought the Micro Swiss hotend for the k1 max and also got the ruby nozzle but noticed it is different from the nozzle that came with the Swiss hotend. Will the ruby still work?
Any suggest on reconnecting the motor? I followed this video first and now I can't get into the tight space to reconnect the motor. You seem to have skipped the reassbley and all the other videos show it being done without disconnecting the motor
You can do it without disconnecting - but I had no issue reconnecting it. Just the reverse of the disassembly which is why I kind of skimmed over it. Usually I'll go into detail on the parts that are tricky or cause problems. The connector is small so maybe if you have some tweezers or something to hold it while guiding it into the plug it might help. Then use your fingernail or a flat head screw driver to gently push the connector back in.
Hadn't printed in about five weeks, just left the filament sitting in the tube and extruder. Fired up the K1 Max and no filament will extrude. Going to have to disassemble and probably clean. When I run the steel push-through tool through the extrude the tip comes out covered in plastic so I'm sure there is significant build up in there. Any tips on actually deep cleaning a gummed up extruder? I was thinking an acetone brush down with a tooth brush but welcome suggestions.
Hello. I have bought the K1 about a week ago. I have unloaded filament only once, without unlocking the gears. And it seems that a piece of filament was actually left inside, like in your case. However, I inserted new filament and the printer worked well. Does it mean that the piece of old filament was extruded? Or it's still inside and may jam in the future?
Now creality has updated the extruder and the nozzle, however there is still a problem with the tube reaching the right place before you lock the extruder ready for the machine to heat up the filament and squeeze it out of the nozzle. First the filament gets stuck in the end of roll detector, then after some pushing and shoving it goes through that. Next it reaches the top of the machine, where it suppose to go into the new nozzel or the old plastic tube, once in there, you can now lock the extruder and your ready to go. Creality, ITS NOT WORKING, ITS GETTING STUCK, NO CHANGE TO CAPRICORN BOWDEN TUBE AT 1.9 INSTEAD OF 2MM IS GOING TO MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE. Anybody got some idears? This is the newly upgraded K1 Max. Think we should replace everything with a 3rd party extruder and hot end. Thanks, looking for answers, this is the third machine
I'd hope by now that it's been said 20 times. You shouldn't use cap tubing in reverse bowden setups. Before the extruder, you want the path to be loose, not tight. All you do is add more friction to the entire system, with cap tubing.
I was dreading getting my first filament jam handled, but you made it way less painful. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your generosity! Really means a lot to me!
3 years of printing and this is the first printer to have almost stumped me. Thank you for such a simple explaination!
Best video that finally explained how it all works together.
One point, my K1 Max has the LIDAR and therefore I could not find the screw on the left to take the cover off. I left the cover in place and just did my work with the extruder attached.
If you unscrew the LIDAR (2 screws on top) you can reach the left screw of the fancover
It's so much fun working on my K1 max. Every once in a while, i get to print on it, too. Not very often, though.
Dude, you just saved me like 3+ hours of frustration. Wow, I almost certainly would have broken something trying to figure out why my brand new K1C stopped printing after the first test print. Back in business, thanks to your tutorial.
Dropped on this vid, trying to learn what was causing my issue. Mangled filament inside my extruder was the cause. Thank you for a detailed and well explained solution, especially "watch for glued in place connectors...." I am tactile dysfunctional at the best of times, so that saved me a costly correction. Again excellent work, from a 1 day old maker's stand point, I couldn't of asked for a better guide!
Unbelievable. This was exactly the problem, but it happened 7 hours into a 15 hour print. Thank you for this walkthorugh!
Glad it helped!
You saved me! Thanks mate. Turns out I had the tiniest piece of filament stuck in the extruder wheels that was giving me grief!
Happy to have helped :)
Dude you absolutely saved my life you’re genuinely the best
Great instructions, it got my printer working again.
I took a short cut by just unscrewing the three extruded screws and carefully pulling the motor vertically. You have to be careful not to damage the stepper motor wires
Thank you, and yes that is a great shortcut :)
Wish I'd done that. When I pulled the glue off the breakout board connector it brought one side of the connector with it and 3 wires popped out. Trying to figure out what type of connector I need to get to replace it. Benn through my JST set and not seeing anything similar.
just redicoulos , u need to go through this on a 1000$ printer
@@russkoon2355
Fantastic video you absolute legend.
Glad you enjoyed it
I just need to keep a closer eye on it. It made one good print and clogged. Works fine now.
Hope you've had better luck lately!
Thank you so much for this walkthrough. Saved my extruder! Subbed & Liked.
Thank you so much for your generosity and really appreciate the sub and support!
Mine is working fine now after watching this video. Thank you
You are a lifesaver. Your video is gold.
thanks for the help I was all jammed up on my k1c
Glad it helped!
Awesome! Just saved my life!!
I didn't have the guts to disconnect any cables so I serviced the extruder in the machine, dangling from its cable - still worked! 😂
nice video and I appreciate showing how to prevent the issue and just not fix. I ended up skipping taking off the front by just unlooping the wires in the back. that gave me enough loose wire to mess with the extruder without unplugging it. if it becomes more of a problem, i'll modify the printer head so the motor is flipped and accessibly from the back.
Thank you so much! Your video saved my K1C, my mind, and my day. Now I know my mistake when changing the filament. Thx!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot! Now I can back to printing 😎
I too have a K1. I have had issues with my hotend & extruder! Thanks for the high quality video.
Glad to help!
Thank you mate, that really helped, despite I had another issue with some residue filament.
On my Ender3plus I could heat up the hotend, wait until a certain temperature and then pull the old filament out. No problem since I learned that.
On this machine the way I learned from you is crucial and important!!
Here is what I have done:
I took out the extruder and it turned fine. So it was obviously not the sam issue you mentioned.
Then I took out the nozzle, which also was fine and clean.
When I looked into the hotend from the top, I couldn't see the bed, so something must be stuck inside. Cleaning from the top with this long metal rod didn't help. I could feel there was something in there. When pushing from the nozzle side upwards (with the rod) the filament residue came out and I could put all together and print again.
Okay, Crealty. It would be fine to let customers know the correct way to put in and out the filament. THAT is crucial and belongs on a tiny piece of paper. The printer came with a ton of stuff and stickers nobody needs. A little piece of paper, guys, and you get more love back for this (still fine!) machine.
Well, at one point there comes the time to learn how to take it apart. But not after three prints. I bet in a lot of cases this could have been avoided.
Yes, it was my fault doing it wrong. Next time I know better. With the help of the Embrace Making guy. Thank you!
Thank you, your video is great for beginners still trying to figure out the kinks and clogs
Glad you found it useful!
Noob here, thanks, fixed my problem after scratching my head for hours. Small bit of plastic from bad retraction.
Glad it helped!
Great explanation, helped me clear a clogged extruder so took opportunity to switch to hardened steel also. Nylon a right pain to print with.
Glad it helped!
helped me alot, when i pulled the motor, it had like a 5cm long filament stuck like a sword hahaha, if you had the same issue, try it with no fear, it isnt that hard, just be carefull with the glue
I had a small piece of filament rattling around in my extruder that got stuck in there when my filament spool tangled up on the back.. The glue was troublesome but with some time and patience like you said it comes off fairly easily just take your time. My extruder gears were extremely clean in comparison but overall with a little patience this is totally doable for anyone with good eyeballs
My first print failed because of this issue. This video got me going again and to my first print. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thank you for watching and commenting :)
Thank you...easiest video to follow....saved us!
Instructions very easy to follow and adapt to K1 max
Really happy it was useful!
For the people coming here now, what is being suggested could very well temporarily fix it but the actual issue is that the hotend itself and the extruder, if you have one of the earlier machines, are faulty and they'll replace them for free if you ask and they're made of different things, they're better
Yes the first revision of the extruder is known to be a problem. This might help as you suggest but if you have a first gen extruder reach out to Creality for replacement!
why even updated extruder gears still plastic? isnt metal gears would be better? anyway to upgrade that gears myself? they are something standard like i can find in hardware shop?
How do i know if mine is first gen? I just got it black friday at micro center and im having problems with it already
@@santigomez8572not polished extruder and red sock on hot end
@@alperenozgur because it will increase price by average for (rounded and sq2 sequence used) 20 to 50 AUD
Thanks for making and posting this detailed outline!!! I had a different, and odd, blockage. The Extruder motor could not drive the gears. I could not manually move the filament inwards or outwards. After removing the extruder to see what might be going on, I could not disassemble it due to the filament still being inside, so I just "had" to use pointed pliers to 'leverage' agains the housing to get the filament dragged out. Then I could disassemble it fully. And inside there was NOTHING amiss at all. No shavings of filament or metal etc. It was all operating perfectly. But I could not see any reason as to why the filament had become "imovable", except by quite extreme force (leverage with pliers).
But anyway, all is fine now, and you video made it easy to do all the correct steps to get there!
Oh... I have the K1 Max, so you also need to remove the LIDAR to get access to the left front cover bolt. You only need to undo its two screws and let it hang aside there.
Hello I have a K1C printer and mine is doing the same thing it won't retract or extrude what should I do?
@@troygales9363 I have just had the same issue with a K1 Max. I was using the eSun PLA+ filament and they hook the filament onto the spool. So when it ran out the extruder kept going and wore part of the filament away and over heated the plastic in the nozzle, cooked it for about 4 hours. I followed the instructions, as above removed the lidar unit. I did not take the nozzle out but I did probe it with the long pin. Reassembled and its printing right now.
This video was a life saver when my nozzle jammed. Thanks for sharing this!
Glad it helped!
Hey, your advise was great to me. I am service engineer but for big Industry machines and this tiny Unit was a new experience for me. my K1 is back online and ready to print. Appriciate you help video very much. 😎 My mistake was to print PLA with ABS Tempereature and when I realized what happen, it was much too late and my nozzel and all other were jammed with blue PLA 🤯
Glad it was helpful! You might have experienced heat creep with the ABS settings where some of your PLA became soft inside of the heat break tube and then jammed. Glad you got it fixed though!
actually that's what happened to me. I thought it was ABS, but turned out to be PLA. So was the issue with the nozzel or the extruder or both?
Thanks, you got me up and running again!
Adding my thanks for this video. Walked me through what would have been a scary and expensive problem to solve.
The filament jam inside the extruder gear mechanism is caused by:
The filament being too soft, hence, when the gears try to push it through the tiny hole, it blobs up and blocks the exit.
Many factors can create this scenario. In my case, I am printing PLA on a hot summer day, and I also kept the whole printer enclosed. The ambient temp combined with the printing temps of the hotend and bed caused the clog.
The solution for me is: Opening the top cover and door while printing PLA, lowering bed temp to 50 instead of 60, ensuring back ventilation fan is turned on an functioning.
Oh man I can’t wait to see the carbon fiber prints!
Coming soon! They'll probably hit my Instagram first because it's faster to post (or maybe UA-cam shorts?) So be sure to follow :)
Thank a million! You saved my day. Exactly the same problem you had, now solved!
Awesome!
Great instructions... 4min49 here that top plastic cover was stuck really hard, the filament was between that plastic and the gears
Great video, thank you so much - We appreciate the details and tips to prevent.
Thank you! Really glad you found it useful!
Thank you so much, this was my exact issue and this is my first filament printer ❤❤❤❤❤
Glad I could help! Enjoy your 3D printing adventure :)
This is why I always do "cold" pulls when switching filament.
Lucky you, looks like you got the updated extruder design. I landed a early model that doesn’t properly tension itself. My k1 is a paperweight until creality gets me the upgrade kit.
Did you ever get the upgrade kit and get it resolved?
Had the same issue and this video worked a treat. Thanks!
Thank you so much I've managed to find the problem from your very informed video
Thanks!
Yep, this video saved me a headache and a lot of time. Thank you so much.
Great video dude
Appreciate it!
Very clear instructions and great video quality - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
is the k1 worth buying now after creality fixed the hotend/extruder issue?...planning to buy my first printer for my robotics project which requires a lot of iterative prototyping design
So far I've been having a really good time with mine despite this little extruder jam hiccup. I believe you can get the K1 on sale (right now?) for considerably less than a Bambu P1P so there is a lot of value here. Now I've never owned a Bambu P1P so take my opinion with a grain of salt... but from what I've read online if you have the extra $$ the Bambu printer might be a little easier to start with out of the box and they *may* have also worked out more of the bugs at this point. Generally you get a better price on the Creality machines but you also have to do a little more tinkering. This is all very general speak based on my experience in the past but I wish I had a a comparable Bambu labs printer to say for certain. You may also want to look at the Qidi printers. I have a test model I've been playing around with and they will be sending me a more refined version in September, but even their first model is very good and you get a bigger build area in the same price range as the K1 / P1P
Legendary. No questions.
Appreciate the support :)
Wonderful and useful video. I am having a difficult time removing the silicone boot that covers the excruder. You seem to just twist it and it came off, but when I twist, I afraid that I will damage the excruder. Any suggestion?
Thank you! Yes it takes some time to work loose... you have to very carefully pry it and pull on it especially after it has been through so many hot/cold cycles and if there has been plastic melted to it. It will take time, just be careful when prying with a screwdriver, you may puncture or tear it. Always good to have a spare or two on hand.
How do you remove the LIDAR camera to reach the left hand front cover screw?
I've had this happen twice now before realizing I need to unload the filament more carefully. Both times the filament actually got stuck in extruder cover, not the gears directly.
I wonder if a longer retract cycle in unload macro (to make sure the filament clears the gears) would solve this?
Also, I just unscrew the extruder assembly, pull it out, and unscrew the extruder from the motor without unplugging it or taking the front cover off. Makes it a lot quicker.
Good idea about removing the motor separate, that's a nice shortcut. With the longer retract I don't think it's going to fix it though... I have a feeling the retract is long enough as it is but what is happening is that the filament path from hotend to extruder is very short, so when the retract happens the end of the filament is still hot and mushy... it's those extruder gears that are probably trying to pull it out completely but it's getting stretched and squished and deformed between the gears and the gears can no longer grip it to force it out completely. Longer retract won't help as you'll just continue spinning over the squished filament. This is my guess, but you can always try?
@EmbraceMaking That's a good point, probably not going to help. What I want to try (at some point) is to set a retraction in the end-print gcode or macro large enough to just clear the heartbreak, similar to what you would do on a Revo. This should at least help when you want to change filament when the nozzle is cold, so you can just pull out the filament without melting it first.
I pulled it out, I always wonder what the retract function was use for
I cant remove the PETG from the extruder. Is it normal for my model K1?
I have a brand new K1C and had mine jam. Had a small piece of filament in there. Probably forgot to lock the filament down.
Entirely possible - I just cleared out another small piece of filament that looked like it either swelled or was out of tolerance
Thank you so much! for me it was a different problem, but the same solution a piece of fillament broke just under the extruder and before nozzle and blocked everything -_-
Thanks a lot for this Vid! exactly my issue - and perfectly explaint resolution. It was even easy to work on (and that's coming from a clumsy one ;) thanks and greets from Austria, Mario
Glad you were able to get it done :)
Hello, my issue has gone beyond a clog. I have a large clump of filament around the hot end and when I tried to remove it, I disconnected the lighting wire. When I want to know is, how can I clean all that filament?
Don't unplug the extruder motor. Just pull straight up carefully so that the cables don't break. You'll still be able to finish the job
Thank You Sir
Welcome!
Hello. What is the direction of the fan under the board?
My extruder just will not come out, Im wondering if its stuck because of melted filament
thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
You're very very very very very very very very very very welcome!
saved my printer :D
IPA works on the glue very well fyi. less fighting with it
Ok. I followed your instructions and removed the extruder which was clogged and also removed the nozzle, but after I cleared the motor and gears, I still got a piece of PLA stuck between extruder and nozzle. How do I take that apart/remove it. its not coming out at all and currently broken off at the base.
I have a K1C and every time I try and change filament, I hit retract at 220 and wait for it to finish then unlock and pull out, but lately it has been frozen every time o try and remove it as if it was still locked in. I think what it happening for me is that when it heats and extracts the filament I think it is pulling molten pla out and then ramming it back into the barrel of the hot end flattening it out and making it impossible to remove.
thank you so much
You're welcome!
I managed to get a 2mm long piece of filament stuck in the extruder hole and I had to use a 2mm Allen key to hammer it out
Awesome video, thanks for sharing your tips !
My pleasure!
I have similar problem but mine with a k1c and I’ve replaced nozzle 3 times
Obrigado pela ajuda!!!!!!
Really quick question, where did you get that tool? (the hex driver)
Thanks for checking!
This video came in very handy, thank you!
Does anyone know if there's a piece of filament between the extruder and the hotend like seen at 3:57 on the Creality K1C?
I'm unable to pull the filament out of the PTFE tube
Troquei o hotend da minha pois ele derreteu o suporte me mandou outro mais ainda está saindo fumaça cheiro de queimado a capa de silicone do Hothend está derretendo acontecendo a mesma coisa q a anterior poderia me ajudar
My filament is stuck in the extruder it won't retract out. What do I do
Mine is suffering, without the filament becoming stuck I the gears. Bought and brand new extruder and the problem occurs straight away. 😢
Nice clear well explained video.
Glad you liked it :)
Great video, I had a multiple jam disaster, both in the gears of the feeder , in the little feeder tube between the feeder and the heater and the nozzle was blocked too. Unfortunately I broke the heater assembly trying to remove the frozen nozzle, but I had the spare one that came eith the machine so hapy days, once that was out I could free the passage all through, however I did not put the big rubber texture gasket back.
Its all working OK and that gasket was SUCH a pain to get off I am reluctant to put the new one back, any views??
Muchas gracias por el video! fue de mucha ayuda
Appreciate the video, but I'm unable to tell the orientation of the extruder connector as it's in the shadows when removed and the video skips over the reinstall. Mine poped out, which colored wire goes on top?
I bought the Micro Swiss hotend for the k1 max and also got the ruby nozzle but noticed it is different from the nozzle that came with the Swiss hotend. Will the ruby still work?
Thank you for this
My pleasure!
Any suggest on reconnecting the motor? I followed this video first and now I can't get into the tight space to reconnect the motor. You seem to have skipped the reassbley and all the other videos show it being done without disconnecting the motor
You can do it without disconnecting - but I had no issue reconnecting it. Just the reverse of the disassembly which is why I kind of skimmed over it. Usually I'll go into detail on the parts that are tricky or cause problems. The connector is small so maybe if you have some tweezers or something to hold it while guiding it into the plug it might help. Then use your fingernail or a flat head screw driver to gently push the connector back in.
need one of those screwdriver
i am confused with the fact my nozzle comes with a metal tube connected to it. i cant get it off. i am confused
Mind sharing what kind of screwdriver you were using? That would save a lot of time and headaches if I had one of those.
Hadn't printed in about five weeks, just left the filament sitting in the tube and extruder. Fired up the K1 Max and no filament will extrude. Going to have to disassemble and probably clean. When I run the steel push-through tool through the extrude the tip comes out covered in plastic so I'm sure there is significant build up in there. Any tips on actually deep cleaning a gummed up extruder? I was thinking an acetone brush down with a tooth brush but welcome suggestions.
what if you never used it. I just got mine and it wont extrude
Hello. I have bought the K1 about a week ago. I have unloaded filament only once, without unlocking the gears. And it seems that a piece of filament was actually left inside, like in your case. However, I inserted new filament and the printer worked well. Does it mean that the piece of old filament was extruded? Or it's still inside and may jam in the future?
If it hasn't caused a problem yet it will likely be fine. Don't worry :) if it ever does jam you at least know now what to do!
Why does my Bowden tube not come out?
Sometimes the teeth on the fitting can grab it and really bite into the PTFE. Might just have to pull harder or wiggle it
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Now creality has updated the extruder and the nozzle, however there is still a problem with the tube reaching the right place before you lock the extruder ready for the machine to heat up the filament and squeeze it out of the nozzle.
First the filament gets stuck in the end of roll detector, then after some pushing and shoving it goes through that.
Next it reaches the top of the machine, where it suppose to go into the new nozzel or the old plastic tube, once in there, you can now lock the extruder and your ready to go.
Creality, ITS NOT WORKING, ITS GETTING STUCK, NO CHANGE TO CAPRICORN BOWDEN TUBE AT 1.9 INSTEAD OF 2MM IS GOING TO MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE.
Anybody got some idears? This is the newly upgraded K1 Max.
Think we should replace everything with a 3rd party extruder and hot end.
Thanks, looking for answers, this is the third machine
Does this also work with the k1C. I can't separate the plastic cover from the other half of the extruder after removing the m3 screws @4.50min
I have the same problem
It worked for me in the end. You just need to find a slim/sharp tool like a knife or sth. To get in between both sides @@areavisuals5261
Nice video! Suscribed 😊
thanks))
I'd hope by now that it's been said 20 times.
You shouldn't use cap tubing in reverse bowden setups. Before the extruder, you want the path to be loose, not tight. All you do is add more friction to the entire system, with cap tubing.