Oh no! That’s crazy! What is the pattern company thinking? Not a lot I don’t think. I just made a bag off a simplicity pattern and had to alter the pattern before I made it so the pieces of the bag would actually fit together. And the pattern piece for a separate cover wasn’t even big enough to hold what it was being made to hold. That piece I had to enlarge 1” in width and 1.5” in length for it to hold the item it said it was for. It’s gotten to where you have to check everything before you even mock up! So nuts. There’s absolutely no quality control anymore.
I have had literal nightmares about getting stuck in clothing. I'm sorry that happened to you, especially after you put all that work into making the dress.
Everything you said about the patterns is true. When I took home economics, despite careful measurements and reading the instructions, the finished product never fit well. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time innclass to make a mockup nor were our teachers expert enough to explain to us how to change a pattern to make it fit. Just wasted time and money. For those girls with perfect figures, they got the better grades not because they were better seamstresses, but because the end product fit them better. What I would do is buy the pattern I wanted and several yards of burlap or cheap polyster to practice on over the summer. This way I got a good grade because the pattern fit me--no thanks to the pattern makers and teachers, but because I took the initiative myself.
I'm very short-waisted and have zero hips, so the A-line skirts we made in 7th grade and the simple dresses in 8th were proportioned _completely_ wrong for me. My mother (a 4th degree black belt seamstress) admitted as much, but said it was _my_ fault for getting a C in both classes. And she was a teacher. Sheesh.
Yeah that's why I go right in and sew the closure that serves me rather than what they think I need. The beauty of sewing is looking at the instructions and saying, "Nope I don't think I will."😄
I sew with my mom she says nope I'm not doing that a lot. I don't think you could get her to sew something completely following a pattern. I think the last time she did that was home economics and she was mad that the teacher made her do so. She made one according to the pattern and then she made one according to how she was taught by her grandma. One looked better then the other and that was her point.
thank you for diving deeply into the mechanics of this pattern. also, it is hilarious to hear SewRena swearing! In my mind, she is always perfect and never swears.
Yes, why? I hate hate hate raised waists. I'm literally so fed up that while I have no real sewing skill yet, I'm actually going up develop it, I'm going to learn how to draw and design and just create my own wardrobe.
I would question that it possibly came from using the smallest size and then a modern block from there. So the upsizing changed things. That is all I can think for those small changes.
My hypothesis is that the 2020s waist is higher than the 1950s waist so that it will hit closer to the ribcage and give more ease around the stomach. Which doesn't work if you then shrink the skirt panels!
I just had an epiphany!!!! I bet that they took the vintage pattern, copied it and then a graphic designer (or pattern drafter??) moved the darts "slightly" on the modern pattern to accommodate for the extra lines that are needed for the multi size pattern. I bet that the dart lines would have overlapped too much to be comprehensible. They altered the pattern so it would fit the criteria of working on the multi pattern and ignored the slight adjustments that would have on the fit of the garment. I wonder if the outer shapes of the under arm and skirts were copied from another similar pattern and were just "re-used" so no one had to re-draft the pieces. Maybe it makes sense to add another 1" of seam allowance to all these re-issues just so everyone has more wiggle room.
I can remember when my mom made her dresses in the 1960s and she always got mad with the side zippers. She changed to back zippers and was happy with it. She was a petit person and struggled with the side zipped dresses too.
When I first began sewing in the late 1950s to early 1960s, most dresses actually had side zippers because you could not obtain the longer ones you needed for a back zipper. Once we could get the longer zippers for a center back application, we stopped using the side insert zipper. A center back zipper was easier to sew as well as easier to use.
I think the side zipper was used because of the "need" for a man to zip and unzip back ones. That, OR the discomfort of a metal toothed back zip on bare skin. Still doesn't explain why women's/girl's jeans had side zippers.
Im with you on needing the extra instructions about tricky bits. And changing the pattern to make it so you get stuck is frustrating. I had to have my husband pull me out of a dress i was making last night because I was stuck. Thankfully it was a mockup but still. Thanks for doing the heavy lifting pattern testing since Simplicity didnt do it.
Now I'm off to go watch Serena's make just to hear her swear...LOL. I love that you did a deep dive into the sleeve. It not only changes how you fit your arm through but also how the fabric lays across the chest. It's almost like Simplicity is afraid of CURVES.
Thank you for this comparison of modern vs. vintage. There are enough "modifications" in the modern one that changes the fit!! I love the romance of vintage, and it was accomplished with the darts, techniques on collars, buttons, etc., AND something that doesn't fall apart in the wash! VINTAGE all the way! I'm learning a LOT--Thanx, Stephanie!
I am guessing that they had one of the tiny sizes, and then put it into their system for scaling. Then the algorithm would be trying to scale from there and that might account for some of it, or perhaps the copy they had was trimmed down to the owners measurements, and then more drift once in the computer scaling system?
Chaos sewing here... I'm making a pair of SUPER wide-legged trousers (inspired by the ones Ailsa made a few weeks ago on this year's Sewing Bee); I put the fabric for the welt pocket bags in the wrong way round; so the inside of the pocket isn't the pretty side. (These are additional back pockets that aren't on the original pattern I'm using). And decided to just live with it. If someone can see that my pocket bags aren't as pretty as they should be, they're Too Close.
Thank you so much for adding the final measurements. That is so helpful! I have this original vintage pattern but it’s not my size, so it’s nice to know about the quality of the reproduction.
After watching multiples of these I am wondering if the drafters are ‘walking’ the patterns. This is where you match up all your pieces where they seam together to make sure they match up properly. They just said, ‘close enough’ and called it a day. They also aren’t adding the same ease allowances as the vintage patterns. I don’t know what they their thought processes are but I would definitely do things differently.
My Mother had some vintage patterns from when she was a young woman. I made a skirt one summer that I just loved. It was very easy to sew. It's to bad the newer copies don't follow the older patterns faithfully. I do like the patterns that have more than one size, but I haven't sewed anything in a long time.
Learned to sew when I was 10, about 1970. By the time I was 13 or 14, I wouldn't even buy Simplicity or McCalls, only Butterick or Vogue. Supposedly, they were harder to make. But they fit much better. I am still wary of Simplicity and I'm not surprised by this video.
Stephanie, I have to know the pattern number of the green dress cut out that you pop up at 20 seconds. I made that dress in junior high and that was my first experience with a three-way seam. I ripped it out a couple of times and it was pretty ragged when I finished it. Whew! Most of my patterns of that era didn’t survive. Mom probably passed them along to friends who had daughters younger than me, or I used them so many times they were ragged. Enjoyed your review. I guess it’s the little things that count. I’ve made a couple of vintage patterns and do my best to put the zipper in the back. So much easier to put on, and easier to add pockets if I want! This is Jan. Darlene is my mom and we watch you on her channel on TV.
Your videos are so entertaining, thank you. And I have to say, I have been sewing for over 60 years. Even when the pattern called for side zip, I put in a back, gasp. Yes even in the 50s or 40s patterns since they were around. I hated side zips so for ease back zipper I don't care about the authenticity i care about comfort. ❤
I put side zips in modern items for exactly the same reason - comfort. I am not a contortionist, have two messed up shoulders and arthritis in my hands, and cannot do up a back zip. But, back zips ARE so much easier to put in!
Back zippers had the problem of needing someone to zip you in and out. I remember that 'zipper pulls' were a big thing . They were a tiny clasp that hooked through the small hole in the zipper tab, attatched to a 2-3 ft length of chain, cord or ribbon. You clipped it to zipper tab, brought the end up over your shoulder and pulled the zipper closed and removed the clip. Reverse the procedure to escape.
I don’t get this. Some lines match perfectly, some not at all. So they HAD the original pattern pieces and decided to change these. Leave aside that’s not a reproduction than, per definition. But why add flaws like the sharp angle instead of the underarm curve? I’m just an amateur who makes patterns, but I don’t understand this. 🤔
IF it is reproduced from an original copy of this pattern, we don't actually know what size their copy was. In the process of grading, there are sometimes choices you have to make, and I think this could account for some of the difference. In my personal collection I have a multisize pattern produced by a major reproducer on Etsy, who I know had an original of a particular size, and I also have a copy of the original pattern in a different size.. and if I compare the two, the repro lines are off.. but I think it is the grading choices that result in the differences there, too.
I don't understand why they couldn't just copy the damn original ! ... they do larger sizes on these repros, so yeah they can adjust for the plus size but do it from the original !
I can understand changing the pattern to accommodate modern sizes, fabric, lifestyle and modern foundation garments, but it should actually improve on the original.
I would love if they used the correct pattern pieces and then distinguished the various sizes by using both different line pattern as well as a color and a symbol printed on the pattern, although I might be tempted to notate it on each pattern piece. I’d pay for that.
When i started sewing from patterns (roughly 1973) I very quickly learned to ignore the instructions. Nowadays . I don't actually use patterns very often. I drape most things, and when i do use a pattern it's mostly just for the shapes... which i modify to fit... that being said. I love your videos and you actually keep me company over long projects
I HATE the modern multisize patterns with a passion and was always underwhelmed when i did sew one. That is why, in my opinion, vintage rules! I now purchase vintage exclusively and i enjoy the hunt for the perfect ( me) patterns. Thank u for doing these comparison videos, they are informative and always entertaining😊 😊
A thing I found missing from the repro's is the added detail such as pad-tacking. My first vintage pattern was a lumberjack coat and I learned so much, it was a pattern from the late '40's early '50's. For the more modern patterns, I purchased vintage sewing books to interchange methods to get a better look.
Another option for the zipper location could be Center front. And invisible zipper should fit quite nicely right there. And it would be better for those with issues reaching to the vaccine or the side seam to unzip themselves. Another quickish fix for the side seam to underarm seam is to add a gusset. This style of cut on sleeve or "kimono" sleeve is very popular and vintage fashions in the mid-century, but aren't really used in modern times. And most people might not find them very comfortable. I would recommend a gusset in a shape of a triangle or like a cartoon house. The base width of the triangle flash foundation of the house would be the extra with needed at the opening of the sleeve. Then, the sides of the triangle slash house will be the length of the underarm seem. That should give more room for comfort and mobility.
I made a dress from a vintage reproduction pattern. The dress turned out fantastic …. Except for the bodice. I now need to go in and tack down the gathered bust area because it doesn’t sit right on the sides. And the button back closure I think I’ll replace with a zipper if I make a second one. I have 3 more of those vintage patterns I want to try, but I’ll do muslins first for fit issues.
Good tip. I've always prefered centre back zips! A lot of original dresses from the early 50s had side snaps instead of zippers as they were not commonplace at the time. Learnt that looking at vintage garment videos on here.
Possibly not on-topic, but I really love the shirt and skirt you have on in the mock-up reveal and in the sponsor-segment. They look really good on you, if I'm allowed to say that.
As someone who is so very pear shaped that no dress pattern fits out of the package, I'm used to combining tops and bottoms to get what I need (and still needing too pull in the top some more, usually.) The commentary about the back zipper though? Completely real. Makes all the difference. Sew it right and no one will ever know.
Love the comparison videos. Just shows they don't do the right corrections from original to retro repattern . And from a booby girl here in Australia I absolutely love love love the dress you had on at the beginning of this video 😊
This was interesting. I am old enough to have sewed "vintage". So the modern pattern seems to make sleeve armholes smaller and assumes the fabric is stretcher. This is the way I feel that modern clothes fit. I'm not sure, but I think the side zip would have been before "invisible zipper".
It's a small thing, but I'm genuinely glad to see them finally putting the original pattern number on the new pattern. Saves a lot of time with Google Lens. And, tragically, I think this is what we all knew was coming, but didn't want to acknowledge (at least, I didn't)...that """"AuThEnTiC"""" label means absolute zip.
Thank you very much for the detailed video, which confirmed that fit for my body on the real vintage patterns is much better than the new reproductions.
The bust size and shapes are made to accommodate the support undergarments of the time, both vintage and modern patterns. Bra cup shapes and lift of breasts have changed. This could explain the discrepancies in the busts of the two patterns. - Historical Costumer
Have an older pattern from the 1980s. I was a small back then. Now I'm a medium in mordern measurements. I had to sew an XL in the 1980s pattern. Reality hit hard.
I wish i hadn't discovered this series only AFTER i spent significant amounts on reproduction patterns, ignorance is bliss... until i finally attempt any of them
Is the difference in size due to the modern seam allowance? 5/8 of an inch for modern patterns and 1/2 for older patterns. Don't know if I have got this the right way around for sure. Birdy
0:01 what dress is this? Is this something that you've shown on the channel? I'm gonna go back and look through thumbnails but even just seeing the top and that incredible fabric I want to know more!
I received some beautiful wool vintage ? Fabric that is 29 inches wide. It was a common width in the 30s and 40s from info I can find. Is there a way to figure out yardage needed for patterns when info isn’t given for that width?
Simply google "yardage conversion chart". Several will come up and you can choose whichever comes closest to your fabric width - then scroll until you find the right amount needed in other widths.
@@k.s.k.7721that can get you close, but doesn't always work. I prefer to fold a piece of fabric (or a sheet, for wider widths) to the correct width, and lay out the pattern. I've had the equivalent charts give me an amount that didn't work, because there were pieces that couldn't overlap anymore, etc. All it will tell you is what equals the same number of square inches, and pattern layouts don't work that way.
But since the modern pattern is slightly larger than the vintage, doesn’t it make sense that the darts, etc would be slightly off in order to accommodate that change? I also wonder if there has been a shift in the amount of ease expected in our garments especially since we don’t wear nearly as constricting of foundation wear? And the under arm difference does seem to be slight. It looks like much more because the vintage pattern has the seam allowance drawn on with a smooth arc that makes it seem much more rounded than the cut line.
I think the tucks & neckline on this would have thwarted me so congrats on your valiant effort. And I definitely prefer a back zip. Why did the original pattern not have one anyway😂😂? Thanks for your detailed analysis.
The other possibility for the differences is the printing method. I know from buying digital patterns that even though it might work perfectly on the authors printer, that doesn't mean it will work perfectly on mine.
Hi Stephanie! I am new to your channel, but I am hooked! I cannot begin to tell you how absolutely beautiful you are! And the dresses you make! Gorgeous! You're pretty darn funny, too!
thanks, I’ve bought one of these reproduction patterns and was wondering if they are true to the original. fortunately my pattern is way more simple than a dress, it’s a 1950s blouse that ties at the front and back. it has a picture of an original pattern as well as the photo of the result, and the photo is… underwhelming, but I assumed it’s the lack of styling. hopefully sewing two rectangles together will give me better result 😅
Some of the differences are just from scaling/sizing - they reproduce one size from original - in this case due to all the dart placement aligning on the size 10 most probably that. Then they scale from there as they would with any modern pattern. Which is most definitely going to result in another final pattern then the way it was done "back then". Other techniques, and other parameters -- like your ease is also important in scaling up and down, so if they have another "default ease" due to all the modern fabrics they usually have to consider. The more you move away from the size they used initially, the more it will go wrong. Would guess if you'd gone to compare a size 10 and equivalent a lot of things would be closer. Some minor differences will always be - just due to "computer does curve alignment" vs. "Jaaaaack, where's my french curve gone again"?
I was going to ask, but this video answered my question - Is there a database somewhere with the number of the vintage pattern matched up with the reprint/reissue? Because there should be! I'm going to start one.
Do you think the differences, specifically on the bodice, could be due to modern grading vs, vintage grading? I also wonder if they tried to remake it based on a picture or scan of the original tissue, rather than the actual pattern pieces on tissue.
If i had to guess, they scaled up and/or down from a single size somewhere in the middle range with modern methods. I'm guessing that if you happened to make that exact same size for comparison it would be more exact.
The 1950s patterns that I have that were given to me by my mother inlaw are also a 14, bust 34, but in practice they're really like today's 8. The waist on some of the blouses however, require some sort of girdle as was popular or endured for fashion in the 1950s. I agree that pleating lines on multisize patterns should be banned!! Just duplicate those specific pieces in all the included sizes.
Even though it's not perfect, it's a LOT better than all the ones before. So E for effort. Maybe they could do better. I just wonder why all those little changes ? Do they have to pay the designer a fee for the repro? I must so the proportion of the modern would be a closer fit but still small in the boobs and big in the waist.
I would think that after this much time the original designer is no longer with us. Plus, usually when you work in a creative job, anything you create at work belongs to the company, in terms of rights and royalties.
Hi Stephanie, I've an idea for you. (Love ur vids). Why not choose a year and do a "fashion" show (showing patterns) for that year and maybe make one for each season (4)? A new vid for each outfit you make, showing the season and patterns you selected it from. Say 1957 Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter collection; and then a vid for each seasonal outfit made for this year, or whatever year you like. You could do a few of a different year for each decade, if you wanted to continue the theme. xx
The only issue I have is, I'd live to use and collect the vintage patterns but I am plus size and it is so hard to find bigger vintage patterns, not to mention I am terrible at grading my patterns up. What advice do you have?
The Clothing Industry changed the Standard Clothing sizes quite a few years back. Size 14 was retagged as a Size 12. Size 12 was retagged as a size 10 and so on. That's also when they added Size 0 How do I know, because I own jeans from 2000 - 2024.
Vindication! I've always said that simplicity patterns are written the same way as French chef recipes. Most of us aren't taught to sew the same way they were when those patterns were initially written, and yet simplicity's instructions are still written for that audience.
so some of the seam lines not quite matching up i chock up with them being different sizes, a size 12 back in the 50's is more akin to an 8-10 today, fashion industry wants you to think your smaller than you think you are so trying to match the 12 to the 14 is not going to happen, the copy paste i find wonderful! they didn't change a thing basically. also you should know your measurements and change the pattern according to you actual size.
Lmao the modern is trash all b/c of those darts and the underarm I did in fact get stuck in the dress and had my poor kids panicked to save me 😂
Oh no!!!! 😂😂😂😂
Oh dear 😂
That sucks! Aw
Oh no! That’s crazy! What is the pattern company thinking? Not a lot I don’t think. I just made a bag off a simplicity pattern and had to alter the pattern before I made it so the pieces of the bag would actually fit together. And the pattern piece for a separate cover wasn’t even big enough to hold what it was being made to hold. That piece I had to enlarge 1” in width and 1.5” in length for it to hold the item it said it was for. It’s gotten to where you have to check everything before you even mock up! So nuts. There’s absolutely no quality control anymore.
I have had literal nightmares about getting stuck in clothing. I'm sorry that happened to you, especially after you put all that work into making the dress.
Everything you said about the patterns is true. When I took home economics, despite careful measurements and reading the instructions, the finished product never fit well. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time innclass to make a mockup nor were our teachers expert enough to explain to us how to change a pattern to make it fit. Just wasted time and money. For those girls with perfect figures, they got the better grades not because they were better seamstresses, but because the end product fit them better. What I would do is buy the pattern I wanted and several yards of burlap or cheap polyster to practice on over the summer. This way I got a good grade because the pattern fit me--no thanks to the pattern makers and teachers, but because I took the initiative myself.
I'm very short-waisted and have zero hips, so the A-line skirts we made in 7th grade and the simple dresses in 8th were proportioned _completely_ wrong for me. My mother (a 4th degree black belt seamstress) admitted as much, but said it was _my_ fault for getting a C in both classes. And she was a teacher. Sheesh.
I took ‘home ec’ a hundred years ago. We never put the item on. We were graded on how well the darts were done, seam finishing, hemming etc
@@debbylou5729I was headed on how well I didn't see my fingers while pouring a patch pocket onto a pre-made apron.....
@@debbylou5729me too!
Yeah that's why I go right in and sew the closure that serves me rather than what they think I need. The beauty of sewing is looking at the instructions and saying, "Nope I don't think I will."😄
I sew with my mom she says nope I'm not doing that a lot. I don't think you could get her to sew something completely following a pattern. I think the last time she did that was home economics and she was mad that the teacher made her do so. She made one according to the pattern and then she made one according to how she was taught by her grandma. One looked better then the other and that was her point.
thank you for diving deeply into the mechanics of this pattern. also, it is hilarious to hear SewRena swearing! In my mind, she is always perfect and never swears.
Same lol
Me too
Love the vintage vs. repro series. Not authentically reproducing the pattern, but copy paste on the instructions is just absolutely crazy.
Totally agree!
This is just proof that I was right about modern patterns raising the waist for no apparent reason.
Yes, why? I hate hate hate raised waists.
I'm literally so fed up that while I have no real sewing skill yet, I'm actually going up develop it, I'm going to learn how to draw and design and just create my own wardrobe.
I would question that it possibly came from using the smallest size and then a modern block from there. So the upsizing changed things. That is all I can think for those small changes.
My hypothesis is that the 2020s waist is higher than the 1950s waist so that it will hit closer to the ribcage and give more ease around the stomach. Which doesn't work if you then shrink the skirt panels!
I just had an epiphany!!!! I bet that they took the vintage pattern, copied it and then a graphic designer (or pattern drafter??) moved the darts "slightly" on the modern pattern to accommodate for the extra lines that are needed for the multi size pattern. I bet that the dart lines would have overlapped too much to be comprehensible. They altered the pattern so it would fit the criteria of working on the multi pattern and ignored the slight adjustments that would have on the fit of the garment. I wonder if the outer shapes of the under arm and skirts were copied from another similar pattern and were just "re-used" so no one had to re-draft the pieces. Maybe it makes sense to add another 1" of seam allowance to all these re-issues just so everyone has more wiggle room.
This is what I was thinking about the darts.
I can remember when my mom made her dresses in the 1960s and she always got mad with the side zippers. She changed to back zippers and was happy with it. She was a petit person and struggled with the side zipped dresses too.
When I first began sewing in the late 1950s to early 1960s, most dresses actually had side zippers because you could not obtain the longer ones you needed for a back zipper. Once we could get the longer zippers for a center back application, we stopped using the side insert zipper. A center back zipper was easier to sew as well as easier to use.
I think the side zipper was used because of the "need" for a man to zip and unzip back ones. That, OR the discomfort of a metal toothed back zip on bare skin. Still doesn't explain why women's/girl's jeans had side zippers.
Im with you on needing the extra instructions about tricky bits. And changing the pattern to make it so you get stuck is frustrating. I had to have my husband pull me out of a dress i was making last night because I was stuck. Thankfully it was a mockup but still. Thanks for doing the heavy lifting pattern testing since Simplicity didnt do it.
Now I'm off to go watch Serena's make just to hear her swear...LOL. I love that you did a deep dive into the sleeve. It not only changes how you fit your arm through but also how the fabric lays across the chest. It's almost like Simplicity is afraid of CURVES.
It’s stuff like this that made me appreciate the tilting light table my late father built.
Thank you for this comparison of modern vs. vintage. There are enough "modifications" in the modern one that changes the fit!! I love the romance of vintage, and it was accomplished with the darts, techniques on collars, buttons, etc., AND something that doesn't fall apart in the wash! VINTAGE all the way! I'm learning a LOT--Thanx, Stephanie!
So it continues. The "reproductions" are reimagenings and the "authentic reproductions" are slightly changed but fairly close repros
I am guessing that they had one of the tiny sizes, and then put it into their system for scaling. Then the algorithm would be trying to scale from there and that might account for some of it, or perhaps the copy they had was trimmed down to the owners measurements, and then more drift once in the computer scaling system?
Makes sense to me......
@@MarisaFrasure It seems like it gave SewRena a hard time, too, though. And she's pretty small herself.
@@Eloraurora she has what you call a costumable body. If she had difficulties, imagine the rest of us.....
@@MarisaFrasure I mean, the lines do appeal (as the owner of a noodle torso) but I'd also have to figure out where to start grading out the hips.
The vintage one was factory folded, never cut.
Chaos sewing here... I'm making a pair of SUPER wide-legged trousers (inspired by the ones Ailsa made a few weeks ago on this year's Sewing Bee); I put the fabric for the welt pocket bags in the wrong way round; so the inside of the pocket isn't the pretty side. (These are additional back pockets that aren't on the original pattern I'm using).
And decided to just live with it. If someone can see that my pocket bags aren't as pretty as they should be, they're Too Close.
Congratulations on your sponsorship.
Making the mockups was amazingly informative.
Vintage can be bad and tricky all on its own.
Nicely done
Thank you so much for adding the final measurements. That is so helpful! I have this original vintage pattern but it’s not my size, so it’s nice to know about the quality of the reproduction.
I am glad this reproduction is close, I'm going to add this to my list of future makes! Thank you for making practical mockups!!
After watching multiples of these I am wondering if the drafters are ‘walking’ the patterns. This is where you match up all your pieces where they seam together to make sure they match up properly. They just said, ‘close enough’ and called it a day. They also aren’t adding the same ease allowances as the vintage patterns. I don’t know what they their thought processes are but I would definitely do things differently.
My Mother had some vintage patterns from when she was a young woman. I made a skirt one summer that I just loved. It was very easy to sew. It's to bad the newer copies don't follow the older patterns faithfully. I do like the patterns that have more than one size, but I haven't sewed anything in a long time.
Learned to sew when I was 10, about 1970. By the time I was 13 or 14, I wouldn't even buy Simplicity or McCalls, only Butterick or Vogue. Supposedly, they were harder to make. But they fit much better. I am still wary of Simplicity and I'm not surprised by this video.
A new video on the same day I got not one but 2 antique sewing machines? goodness. what a lovely day.
Stephanie, I have to know the pattern number of the green dress cut out that you pop up at 20 seconds.
I made that dress in junior high and that was my first experience with a three-way seam. I ripped it out a couple of times and it was pretty ragged when I finished it. Whew!
Most of my patterns of that era didn’t survive. Mom probably passed them along to friends who had daughters younger than me, or I used them so many times they were ragged.
Enjoyed your review. I guess it’s the little things that count. I’ve made a couple of vintage patterns and do my best to put the zipper in the back. So much easier to put on, and easier to add pockets if I want!
This is Jan. Darlene is my mom and we watch you on her channel on TV.
Simplicity 7436, the v-yoke collarless tent dress :)) would be fun to revisit it !
Great video & I love that you do these challenges. Excellent mock up! Simplicity should do this before they release these patterns! 😤
Your videos are so entertaining, thank you. And I have to say, I have been sewing for over 60 years. Even when the pattern called for side zip, I put in a back, gasp. Yes even in the 50s or 40s patterns since they were around. I hated side zips so for ease back zipper I don't care about the authenticity i care about comfort. ❤
I put side zips in modern items for exactly the same reason - comfort. I am not a contortionist, have two messed up shoulders and arthritis in my hands, and cannot do up a back zip. But, back zips ARE so much easier to put in!
Back zippers had the problem of needing someone to zip you in and out. I remember that 'zipper pulls' were a big thing . They were a tiny clasp that hooked through the small hole in the zipper tab, attatched to a 2-3 ft length of chain, cord or ribbon. You clipped it to zipper tab, brought the end up over your shoulder and pulled the zipper closed and removed the clip. Reverse the procedure to escape.
legitimately whispered "yesssssssssss" to myself when i saw this. love these videos.
Props to hubby for his stellar acting during the sponsor part !
I don’t get this. Some lines match perfectly, some not at all. So they HAD the original pattern pieces and decided to change these. Leave aside that’s not a reproduction than, per definition. But why add flaws like the sharp angle instead of the underarm curve? I’m just an amateur who makes patterns, but I don’t understand this. 🤔
IF it is reproduced from an original copy of this pattern, we don't actually know what size their copy was. In the process of grading, there are sometimes choices you have to make, and I think this could account for some of the difference.
In my personal collection I have a multisize pattern produced by a major reproducer on Etsy, who I know had an original of a particular size, and I also have a copy of the original pattern in a different size.. and if I compare the two, the repro lines are off.. but I think it is the grading choices that result in the differences there, too.
I don't understand why they couldn't just copy the damn original ! ... they do larger sizes on these repros, so yeah they can adjust for the plus size but do it from the original !
It always amazes me how much a few small changes to the pattern can affect the finished garment!
I can understand changing the pattern to accommodate modern sizes, fabric, lifestyle and modern foundation garments, but it should actually improve on the original.
I would love if they used the correct pattern pieces and then distinguished the various sizes by using both different line pattern as well as a color and a symbol printed on the pattern, although I might be tempted to notate it on each pattern piece. I’d pay for that.
When i started sewing from patterns (roughly 1973) I very quickly learned to ignore the instructions. Nowadays . I don't actually use patterns very often. I drape most things, and when i do use a pattern it's mostly just for the shapes... which i modify to fit... that being said. I love your videos and you actually keep me company over long projects
*Body doubling with UA-cam while I iron*
Stephanie: ironing ASMR
Perfection!
I HATE the modern multisize patterns with a passion and was always underwhelmed when i did sew one. That is why, in my opinion, vintage rules! I now purchase vintage exclusively and i enjoy the hunt for the perfect ( me) patterns.
Thank u for doing these comparison videos, they are informative and always entertaining😊 😊
gotta love the different amount of ease they gave between patterns
This is why I add seam allowance to commercial patterns. There’s always iffy measurements on them!
A thing I found missing from the repro's is the added detail such as pad-tacking. My first vintage pattern was a lumberjack coat and I learned so much, it was a pattern from the late '40's early '50's. For the more modern patterns, I purchased vintage sewing books to interchange methods to get a better look.
The recommendation to fix the smaller bust issue with adding a back zip is brilliant. Thank you!
You did an amazing job on that tough dress.
Another option for the zipper location could be Center front. And invisible zipper should fit quite nicely right there. And it would be better for those with issues reaching to the vaccine or the side seam to unzip themselves.
Another quickish fix for the side seam to underarm seam is to add a gusset. This style of cut on sleeve or "kimono" sleeve is very popular and vintage fashions in the mid-century, but aren't really used in modern times. And most people might not find them very comfortable.
I would recommend a gusset in a shape of a triangle or like a cartoon house. The base width of the triangle flash foundation of the house would be the extra with needed at the opening of the sleeve. Then, the sides of the triangle slash house will be the length of the underarm seem. That should give more room for comfort and mobility.
Lol, thanks Stephanie. I am definitely sewing in chaos today. And this was a nice companion.
I appreciate the comparison. My assumption for the reproductions has always been that they are an exact duplicate of the originals.
I made a dress from a vintage reproduction pattern. The dress turned out fantastic …. Except for the bodice. I now need to go in and tack down the gathered bust area because it doesn’t sit right on the sides. And the button back closure I think I’ll replace with a zipper if I make a second one. I have 3 more of those vintage patterns I want to try, but I’ll do muslins first for fit issues.
Hearing sweet @sewrina cuss made my day. 😂
Thank you for being so thorough and always giving a little extra!
fun vid (but less snarky 🙄 than usual). i love the black check skirt in the surf shark cutaways .....
I do love that neck line. May try doing something like it on a tshirt!
All thru i kept thinking yeah but do the seams match, .... Bonus for us that you stitched up both copies 👍 We love the visuals! 🎉💗
wish i was there to show you how to make a light box so you can see the patterns on top better , maybe husband can make for you
I love the dress you have on, super cute! Great informative video, thank you.
Good tip. I've always prefered centre back zips! A lot of original dresses from the early 50s had side snaps instead of zippers as they were not commonplace at the time. Learnt that looking at vintage garment videos on here.
Possibly not on-topic, but I really love the shirt and skirt you have on in the mock-up reveal and in the sponsor-segment. They look really good on you, if I'm allowed to say that.
Same here!
I would love to see someone make this up in the largest size 24/modern, before I decide to buy😅 for my collection.
Why don’t you put more of your content on UA-cam? Your sewing seems interesting I would like to see more.
Is it bad I have an urge to make them both up in spare cloth from my stash just to see what happens? 9:13 ish
Please do it..... people need to know!
As someone who is so very pear shaped that no dress pattern fits out of the package, I'm used to combining tops and bottoms to get what I need (and still needing too pull in the top some more, usually.) The commentary about the back zipper though? Completely real. Makes all the difference. Sew it right and no one will ever know.
Thanks for doing this! That looks like a challenging project and the back zip is brilliant. I'd love to try it!
Oh boy, my favorite series is back, I'm soo excited!!🥰
Love the comparison videos. Just shows they don't do the right corrections from original to retro repattern .
And from a booby girl here in Australia I absolutely love love love the dress you had on at the beginning of this video 😊
I don't care for the neckline front thing. Thank you for another fun video
This was interesting. I am old enough to have sewed "vintage". So the modern pattern seems to make sleeve armholes smaller and assumes the fabric is stretcher. This is the way I feel that modern clothes fit. I'm not sure, but I think the side zip would have been before "invisible zipper".
It's a small thing, but I'm genuinely glad to see them finally putting the original pattern number on the new pattern. Saves a lot of time with Google Lens.
And, tragically, I think this is what we all knew was coming, but didn't want to acknowledge (at least, I didn't)...that """"AuThEnTiC"""" label means absolute zip.
Thank you very much for the detailed video, which confirmed that fit for my body on the real vintage patterns is much better than the new reproductions.
The bust size and shapes are made to accommodate the support undergarments of the time, both vintage and modern patterns. Bra cup shapes and lift of breasts have changed. This could explain the discrepancies in the busts of the two patterns. - Historical Costumer
😂 "Historical customer" IYKYK
You rock! Thank you for doing this.
Have an older pattern from the 1980s. I was a small back then. Now I'm a medium in mordern measurements. I had to sew an XL in the 1980s pattern. Reality hit hard.
This is such an informative and entertaining process! Thank you for producing this series
As a professional tailor, I find it so interesting to compare. Modern patternmakers are trained differently and think differently
I love this series!
I wish i hadn't discovered this series only AFTER i spent significant amounts on reproduction patterns, ignorance is bliss... until i finally attempt any of them
Is the difference in size due to the modern seam allowance? 5/8 of an inch for modern patterns and 1/2 for older patterns. Don't know if I have got this the right way around for sure.
Birdy
they both have 5/8 seams.
0:01 what dress is this? Is this something that you've shown on the channel? I'm gonna go back and look through thumbnails but even just seeing the top and that incredible fabric I want to know more!
Yeees I've been waiting for another one of these!
I've used a different pattern from this "revival" line and I had to do soooo much finagling to get it to work& look correctly.
I received some beautiful wool vintage ? Fabric that is 29 inches wide. It was a common width in the 30s and 40s from info I can find. Is there a way to figure out yardage needed for patterns when info isn’t given for that width?
Simply google "yardage conversion chart". Several will come up and you can choose whichever comes closest to your fabric width - then scroll until you find the right amount needed in other widths.
@@k.s.k.7721that can get you close, but doesn't always work. I prefer to fold a piece of fabric (or a sheet, for wider widths) to the correct width, and lay out the pattern. I've had the equivalent charts give me an amount that didn't work, because there were pieces that couldn't overlap anymore, etc. All it will tell you is what equals the same number of square inches, and pattern layouts don't work that way.
But since the modern pattern is slightly larger than the vintage, doesn’t it make sense that the darts, etc would be slightly off in order to accommodate that change? I also wonder if there has been a shift in the amount of ease expected in our garments especially since we don’t wear nearly as constricting of foundation wear? And the under arm difference does seem to be slight. It looks like much more because the vintage pattern has the seam allowance drawn on with a smooth arc that makes it seem much more rounded than the cut line.
I love it wen you do this!!!!
I think the tucks & neckline on this would have thwarted me so congrats on your valiant effort. And I definitely prefer a back zip. Why did the original pattern not have one anyway😂😂? Thanks for your detailed analysis.
The other possibility for the differences is the printing method. I know from buying digital patterns that even though it might work perfectly on the authors printer, that doesn't mean it will work perfectly on mine.
Hi Stephanie! I am new to your channel, but I am hooked! I cannot begin to tell you how absolutely beautiful you are! And the dresses you make! Gorgeous! You're pretty darn funny, too!
thanks, I’ve bought one of these reproduction patterns and was wondering if they are true to the original. fortunately my pattern is way more simple than a dress, it’s a 1950s blouse that ties at the front and back. it has a picture of an original pattern as well as the photo of the result, and the photo is… underwhelming, but I assumed it’s the lack of styling. hopefully sewing two rectangles together will give me better result 😅
Some of the differences are just from scaling/sizing - they reproduce one size from original - in this case due to all the dart placement aligning on the size 10 most probably that.
Then they scale from there as they would with any modern pattern. Which is most definitely going to result in another final pattern then the way it was done "back then". Other techniques, and other parameters -- like your ease is also important in scaling up and down, so if they have another "default ease" due to all the modern fabrics they usually have to consider. The more you move away from the size they used initially, the more it will go wrong.
Would guess if you'd gone to compare a size 10 and equivalent a lot of things would be closer. Some minor differences will always be - just due to "computer does curve alignment" vs. "Jaaaaack, where's my french curve gone again"?
Was that Sewrena? It sounds like her. She’s great! Love both your channels.
I was going to ask, but this video answered my question - Is there a database somewhere with the number of the vintage pattern matched up with the reprint/reissue? Because there should be! I'm going to start one.
That neckline & those darts give me nightmares ill stick to my muumuus 😂
Do you think the differences, specifically on the bodice, could be due to modern grading vs, vintage grading? I also wonder if they tried to remake it based on a picture or scan of the original tissue, rather than the actual pattern pieces on tissue.
If i had to guess, they scaled up and/or down from a single size somewhere in the middle range with modern methods.
I'm guessing that if you happened to make that exact same size for comparison it would be more exact.
Love these comparison videos :)
The 1950s patterns that I have that were given to me by my mother inlaw are also a 14, bust 34, but in practice they're really like today's 8. The waist on some of the blouses however, require some sort of girdle as was popular or endured for fashion in the 1950s. I agree that pleating lines on multisize patterns should be banned!! Just duplicate those specific pieces in all the included sizes.
Even though it's not perfect, it's a LOT better than all the ones before. So E for effort. Maybe they could do better. I just wonder why all those little changes ? Do they have to pay the designer a fee for the repro?
I must so the proportion of the modern would be a closer fit but still small in the boobs and big in the waist.
I would think that after this much time the original designer is no longer with us. Plus, usually when you work in a creative job, anything you create at work belongs to the company, in terms of rights and royalties.
Hi Stephanie, I've an idea for you. (Love ur vids). Why not choose a year and do a "fashion" show (showing patterns) for that year and maybe make one for each season (4)? A new vid for each outfit you make, showing the season and patterns you selected it from. Say 1957 Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter collection; and then a vid for each seasonal outfit made for this year, or whatever year you like. You could do a few of a different year for each decade, if you wanted to continue the theme. xx
Enjoyed this. I like the pleated side of the neck. I did NOT like the fake scarf look.
Would love to see the reproduction Simplicity 3688 3 piece suit and I really want to make it but now I'm scared.
The only issue I have is, I'd live to use and collect the vintage patterns but I am plus size and it is so hard to find bigger vintage patterns, not to mention I am terrible at grading my patterns up. What advice do you have?
The Clothing Industry changed the Standard Clothing sizes quite a few years back. Size 14 was retagged as a Size 12.
Size 12 was retagged as a size 10 and so on. That's also when they added Size 0
How do I know, because I own jeans from 2000 - 2024.
Vindication! I've always said that simplicity patterns are written the same way as French chef recipes. Most of us aren't taught to sew the same way they were when those patterns were initially written, and yet simplicity's instructions are still written for that audience.
It is so weird to me that the company wouldn't file these things in case they need them again. As an artist(_04_10_final_02) I find this very strange.
I think that this might have to do with the vintage vs modern scaling …🤷🏻♀️
(when they make the pattern bigger from their starting/sample size)
so some of the seam lines not quite matching up i chock up with them being different sizes, a size 12 back in the 50's is more akin to an 8-10 today, fashion industry wants you to think your smaller than you think you are so trying to match the 12 to the 14 is not going to happen, the copy paste i find wonderful! they didn't change a thing basically. also you should know your measurements and change the pattern according to you actual size.