Toyota 1st Gen 4runner Solid Front Axle Service (PART 2)
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
This video is Part 2 of a 2-part series of doing a front axle service on a 1st Gen 4runner solid front axle which includes doing a Marlin Crawler 25mm Trunion Bearing Upgrade. We replace the trunion bearings and races, wheel bearings and races, and all the associated gaskets and seals. Even if you don't plan on doing this service, if you go 4wheeling, knowing how to tear everything down on your solid front axle Toyota would be beneficial if you break an axle.
Part 2 shows you how to use the SST (Special Service Tool) to get a proper knuckle alignment and then get everything put back together with proper knuckle and wheel bearing preloads.
*PARTS*
*Marlin Crawler Front Axle Service Kit
www.marlincraw...
*Marlin Crawler Steering Pin Upgrade Kit (25mm Trunion Bearing Upgrade)
www.marlincraw...
*Marlin Crawler Tie Rod End
www.marlincraw...
*Redline CV-2 Grease (14 oz Jar)
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*Redline CV-2 Grease (14 oz Tube)
amzn.to/2O2nFRc
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*Knuckle Alignment Tool
trail-tailor.co...
*Steering Knuckle Bearing Cup - Race - Arm Remover Service Tool
trail-tailor.co...
*White Paint Pen
amzn.to/34T8FLs
*Lisle Bearing Packer
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt 3/8" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt 20V Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*Knipex Diagonal Cutters
amzn.to/300BRRE
*OTC Front End Service Kit
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*Silicone Plug Kit
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*Vacuum Cap Kit
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*Gear Wrench Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set
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*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*Gear Wrench Ratchet Set (1/4" & 3/8")
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*Brass Drift Set
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*CDI 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
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*Snap Ring Pliers
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*Brass Hammer
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*Trail Gear 54mm Axle Socket
trail-gear.com...
*Trail Gear Knuckle Pull Scale
trail-gear.com...
*Flexible Mini Magnet
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*OTC Slide Hammer Pullet Set
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*Lisle Adjustable Seal Puller
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*Long Taper Punch Set
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*Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press
www.harborfrei...
*3/8" Drive Impact Socket Set
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*Large Digital Caliper
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*Steel Blue Layout Fluid
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*Press Sleeve Kit
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*OTC Prybar Set
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
**Alignment Shop (Tire and Wheel World) - Salinas, California
www.twwsalinas...
*Helpful Videos*
*Low Range Off-Road 9 Part Video Series
• How To Rebuild A Toyot...
*Jonsey's Auto Club 2 Part Video Series
• (1/2) How to Rebuild y...
I have a neighbor who wants me to replace the axle oil seal on his Land cruiser 2
I don't have the 54mm SST,
A local mechanic recommended to just tighten the nut with a chisel
After watching your vid and the 3-4 steps torque process for the one nut. I'm def not doing the job. I will explain this to me neighbor and recommend for him to take it to a shop that has the required tools.
Apparently some mechanics in my country get the job done with a chisel😂 as it is harder for us to get the SST's
Awesome vid as always.
I've actually seen a video of a guy using a chisel. Yeah, I prefer to have the proper tools for something like this. Glad you like the video and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
excellent video!! couple things to note.. the split metal ring should be completely recessed in the knuckle, and the rubber seal should be coated in a liberal amount of grease as well. though i think its more of a suggestion than a requirement
Thanks for the tips. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman loved the video. Between you and low range, my 85 pickup is coming along great. I feel more and more confident especially after watching you use the knuckle SST
@@alexwolf9690 Cool, good to hear.
I had a 68 bronco that had a death wobble and I put a dampener shock on it and that stopped it. It would happen around 45-50 mph with the shock it made it a lot better to drive.
I ended up putting on a dampener as well, but it only helped a little. My first vehicle was a 68 Bronco. I bought it in 1981. I sold it which I regret. Thanks for the comment.
These two videos reminded me of re-packing the front wheel bearings on my 1981Toyota 4wd Long Bed. (..that was a long time ago..) As always, great attention to detail. I think that original thrust washer got the groove worn in it from the bearing being run too loose. Thanks for the effort in putting all this videos up!
Well, hopefully it brought back happy memories. I absolutely agree that the groove in the thrust washer was from the wheel bearing preload being way off. Actually, there was no preload on the bearing. The previous owner said he serviced the front end but he didn’t exactly do it right. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the vid !,having a wobble issue myself ,great info
Thanks Paul. Hope you figure out your wobble issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman going to double check my toe as well i noticed shackle bushings looking a bit pooched.
my beast ua-cam.com/video/jUb-c-WI1wU/v-deo.html
@@kato1140 I checked it out. Looks like an awesome build.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks bud !1
Why no lock ring on before putting on the hub?
Are you talking about the snap ring I install at around play time 47:13?
First... hey Timmy I just got a 60 series cruiser so I'll be doing this on mine soon, it has a death wobble.
Check suspension components first. Ends up my leaf spring u-bolts were WAYYYY under torqued and that was the culprit. I'm still glad I did this service though because I learned a lot and now have confidence everything is correct with my front axle. The previous owner wasn't the most competent mechanic and I don't really trust anything he did to the rig. He said he serviced the front axle but there was clearly a bad driver side axle seal and I also detected wheel bearing play on the driver side. This is the same guy who let me drive the rig with 2 quarts of motor oil in the engine. He obviously had no idea the engine burns oil like crazy.
good👍
You seem to be a person of very few words but thanks for taking the time to comment. We're happy to know you think the video is good.
Great video
We're glad you like it James.
Great video series, once again. As to the axle and hub alignment; I'm not an expert, but I would think if you don't have the axle aligned to the hub (within a certain specification), the axle will effectively be spinning off center. This could tear your bearings and hub up since the axle would be wobbling off center on the outboard side of the birfield joint.
Thanks for the comment. The issue I had with the alignment procedure is you make the scribe marks then have to take a measurement with the caliper tool and then use the formula to figure out the lower shim thickness. Depending on your eye sight and how accurately you're holding the caliper tool, you could easily be off by .5-1mm. With the total shim thickness only being .8 to 1.3mm, I started to form the opinion that the knuckle alignment isn't as crucial as I thought. Seals give. There's play in the birfield joint. There's a little play between the axle splines and differential. The tolerances aren't like machining an engine cylinder wall for an engine rebuild where very exact measurements are crucial. I might be wrong but I think I'm probably mostly correct with my theory on the knuckle alignment.
@@TimmyTheToolman Totally agree with this. I don't think sub-millimeter alignment will make a huge difference. I do think that it would give some confidence that it's not way off. I'm sure when Toyota is building these new, they get it 100% inline and then just outline their procedure in the FSM for posterity.
@@weekendclimber Yep, I agree. If the shim amounts were more, I'd definitely think this alignment procedure would be absolutely crucial. But knowing I have shitty near eyesight and not the steadiest hand, who's to say my measurements were spot on. I can live with the fact my alignment might be off .5mm and not lose any sleep over it. I was just worried if I did put all the shim thickness on the top of the knuckle on that driver side and I was way off with my measurements and what I really needed was all the shim thickness on the bottom instead of the top, I could be 1.3mm off center and that might make a difference in the load and wear of the parts. I think the safest bet is to split the difference top and bottom with the shim thickness like most people do and call it good.
Anyone find that tool to figure out shims for less than like $500?
*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
I have a 76 toyota pickup, A lady hit me and bent the axle shaft, can't find it, wat other year rear end can I use?
I'm not sure buddy. I'm not an expert with these older Toyotas yet. Maybe a forum like Yota Tech, or IH8MUD could help you out.
For body damage
Use cable winch and a tree and chains to pull them out
@@king49334 my axle shaft bent , rim wobbles as I drive down the road,,just wanted to know if I could replace the read end with an 80's or 90's toyota pickup
@@cheeseburger9232 you need to find out what drive train you have
On door jamb place card
Run an ifs rear end. it is wider but also a little more beef. Most rock crawler guys will swap out the stock rear axle from their pre 1985 solid front axle to the rear ifs one
👍👍
Thanks for the 2 thumbs up.