This is great. Your speed and inflection when speaking are just right, your explanation was just what I needed, and the angles were informative. Thank you!
In my piano one of the Key doesnt touch the string. In fact the hammer barely comes up from its rested position. What I noticed is that when I Open the keyboard, PUSH UP the bottom tip of jack with my finger and then press the key, it plays the key for one time. As soon as I release the key it again stops working. Also when looking at the jack from the front of the keyboard, It feels like this key has a jack which is slightly lowered compared to all its adjacent keys. What should I do. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the question. The real test is to have the jack just far enough in that it doesn't "cheat", which means that it doesn't escape prematurely under a hard blow. So, my feeling is, just looking to see if the core lines up with the back of the jack is pretty inaccurate. A better setting is to move the jack back (towards the player) until it "cheats" on a hard blow, then move it back in a small amount, say 1/2 turn on the regulating button. This insures it is far enough in to give a firm transference of force, but doesn't have to escape any further than necessary.
Thanks Eric... You're absolutely right! Then the point is how do you find that "sweet" point by positioning the jack and doing hard blows? Will it also mean that you have to position or "find" the correct spot for all the 88 keys separately since there won't be much room left for the "alignment" method? Due to the different amounts of knuckle wear on every hammer, do you still think that after finding the sweet spot of the jack for one of the hammers, you can still visually align the rest of the knuckles? Thank you for your kind and generosity of sharing your knowledge.. We're in this altogether..
The height of the repetition lever in relation to the top of the jack is critical but is entirely dependent on the condition of the knuckle. I find that that only accurate way to adjust it is to move the jack slowly with your finger, WITHOUT depressing the whippen and the repetition lever, feeling for the jack to rub against the knuckle. I want it to just rub...I want to just feel some friction on my finger from the rack rubbing the knuckle..., BUT the jack must be able to reset all the way back under the knuckle.
I have some keys on my Schimmel that don't sound, I think this is the issue. A tech wants $650 to do regulation and I dont have the doe, so I'll try this
This is great. Your speed and inflection when speaking are just right, your explanation was just what I needed, and the angles were informative. Thank you!
You are GREAT!!
In my piano one of the Key doesnt touch the string. In fact the hammer barely comes up from its rested position. What I noticed is that when I Open the keyboard, PUSH UP the bottom tip of jack with my finger and then press the key, it plays the key for one time. As soon as I release the key it again stops working. Also when looking at the jack from the front of the keyboard, It feels like this key has a jack which is slightly lowered compared to all its adjacent keys. What should I do. Thanks for your help.
So then what do you find more efficient since you close by saying "you find it not efficient"?
Thanks for the question. The real test is to have the jack just far enough in that it doesn't "cheat", which means that it doesn't escape prematurely under a hard blow. So, my feeling is, just looking to see if the core lines up with the back of the jack is pretty inaccurate. A better setting is to move the jack back (towards the player) until it "cheats" on a hard blow, then move it back in a small amount, say 1/2 turn on the regulating button. This insures it is far enough in to give a firm transference of force, but doesn't have to escape any further than necessary.
Thanks Eric... You're absolutely right! Then the point is how do you find that "sweet" point by positioning the jack and doing hard blows? Will it also mean that you have to position or "find" the correct spot for all the 88 keys separately since there won't be much room left for the "alignment" method? Due to the different amounts of knuckle wear on every hammer, do you still think that after finding the sweet spot of the jack for one of the hammers, you can still visually align the rest of the knuckles? Thank you for your kind and generosity of sharing your knowledge.. We're in this altogether..
You mention nothing about the jack height in the repetition window.Please elaborate
The height of the repetition lever in relation to the top of the jack is critical but is entirely dependent on the condition of the knuckle. I find that that only accurate way to adjust it is to move the jack slowly with your finger, WITHOUT depressing the whippen and the repetition lever, feeling for the jack to rub against the knuckle. I want it to just rub...I want to just feel some friction on my finger from the rack rubbing the knuckle..., BUT the jack must be able to reset all the way back under the knuckle.
I have some keys on my Schimmel that don't sound, I think this is the issue. A tech wants $650 to do regulation and I dont have the doe, so I'll try this
What liquid was spilled on that wippen?
I think water. This is a rather old action model that I've lugged around for a number of years.