The author needs to add filler material at the end of the video so that the promo appears after the comparison. I agree, it's annoying in many other videos as well.
Ложишь на стык оббитый от обмазки электрод,зажигаешь на нем дугу и постепенно сплавляешь с него металл насвариваемые детали,формируя шов.Фактически ,получается сварка с присадкой,где тепло дуги используется для расплавле ния присадки
If you're limited to stick and welding thin material. Start by buying the right size rod so you can run proper amperage. Yours too high. The other thing is try a slight push instead of dragging , to help control total heat input.(joules). And blowouts/burnthroughs. Over heating base metal decreases it's structural integrity. Causing weak spots adjacent to weld. As others have stated, other processes, mig, pulsed mig. Or tig are better suited for thin material. What you did will work and have done it myself when caught in a jam. But having the right size electrode (smaller) will enable you to weld it properly. Less chance of overheating, flaws in weld, easier, quicker, looks better. Your technique is a good one to learn. Because it can be used in other situations as well. Especially when it comes to poor fitting and material build up is necessary. 👍
I love stick welding and considering buying one at home. My questions are what brand is good for stick weld machine and range of price? What size of electrode suitable for 1mm steel welding and its amperage? Type of electrode suitable for aluminium frame weld?
This summer I had to rebuild some tubes on a cage style water tank enclosure. I used brazing rods, flux and my old oxy-acetylene rig. And it worked like a charm... This is an old process, but it's still a very efficient one.
@@epokepok8019 That depends on what you want to weld. For thin metal until 3 mm and occasionally 5 mm a small inverter 130 amp max, but of good quality, able to work at a low 20 amps will do the job. It's around 200 bucks. The important is to have a welder able to work from 20 to 110 amps consistently and accurately. For thin clean metal 1.5 mm rods SS309 are a pleasure. The stainless steel rods need very few amps, have a very soft arc, the slag falls by itself, and the welds are smooth, no need to grind after. So the best are SS309 and SS312. The SS312 (a rod for all special steels (tooling, springs, manganese alloys, pinions, crankshafts and even the simple steels) give very ductile and very strong welds. Even the 2 or 2.5 mm may work on thin tubing. For example, for welding square galvanized tubing caliber 14 (2 mm thick) I've often used 2.5 mm SS312 at 50 to 70 amps with minimal haze (burn) of the galvanization, the slag falls alone and the welds look nice and are strong. Just a bit of cold galvanization on the welds, and it's good. You save so much time and nerves that the price of these expensive the rods is worth.
Valid 'professional' comments. I'm sure it's wonderful to have a fully equipped commercial / industrial workshop at your disposal. Unfortunately we don't all have the benefit of such a variety of equipment - most notably home handy-persons who only occasionally have cause to weld something. We have to find ways to work with what we have - or buy expensive 'specialist' equipment that's likely to be used only once, for about 30 mins. I've successfully welded 1mm with an arc. It takes trial-and-error and patience (and some extra grinding) but it CAN be done. I'd LOVE to have a mig or tig, but for the few times I couldn't get by with my arc, I can't justify the cost. I'd rather put the money towards tools I'll use frequently.
@@luillierstephane1463 absolutely, used to do a ton of it. Repair gas tanks, even exhaust. As well as other projects. Brazing, gas welding are excellent skills to have. No power needed is a plus too.
Great video! Great execution! about 40yrs ago my Dad taught me the same trick. It also reminded me how my Dad showed me how to weld a RUSTY Metal holes; is to jump back and forth, from side to side, heat range is important especially when all that is available is an AC welder, and so the idea is to let one side of the hole "cool off" is not to get rusting metal to hot and so all the metal "dump off". Clean and nice metal to weld is always the IDEAL way, but is not always possible if the alternate requires total replacement of many parts can sometimes be costly and time consuming.
Ah, 6011 the rust king. Smoking hot to burn off crud on first pass then tune to base metal. From farm equipment to commercial burning tables. Biggest issue was poor initial construction. Spot, tack,or stitch welds don't hold a candle to wraps and properly sized and well applied welds.
Yes this is great if you're in a jam and literally only have a 1/8 rod. Use the right tools for the job if you can prepare ahead of time, using a 1/16 6013 rod and the correct amperage will produce uniform penetration and weld profile. This rod is specifically suited to welding thin materials. Using this trick you run the risk of lack of fusion, excessive heat input, etcetera, etcetera.
Gue liat dari bentuk holonya... Yg pertama tipis yg kedua tebal... Pemula jg tau kalo pengelasan material holo gak bisa garis kecuali lap 2bang... Coba yg lebih kerend.. Tp gue salut sama Abang..... Biarpun sederhana tp berani.... Sukses ya🙏🙏🙏🙏
Милый человек хоть я вас не знаю.Мы не знакомы .Но по отзывам вы светлый человек И просто хочется сказать .Будь просто счастлив .Спасибо за все что вы делаете для людей .Здоровья вам на долгие годы.Надежных и преданых друзей .Что бы вы всегда были нужны кому то .И вас всегда ждали на этом большом шаре .Всех вам благ .Спасибо за вашу проделанную работу .Потраченные силы нервы время .Так держать.Низкий вам поклон .Респект и уважение
@@user-lc3yy7rn4w пробовал на нескольких устройствах всё работает . Если смотришь в развернутом виде ( на весь экран) то эта хрень становится прозрачной. Если держать телефон прямо соответственно на пол экрана картинка то совсем исчезает и надпись сверху появляется подсказка как перематывать.
Sabes ami me queda como la figura N 1 djdjdjdjd siempre y después pasa a chicharrón ekejeje será mucho amperaje o que barilla necesito para soldar .?¡!??
Необязательно водить электродом и делать колебательные движения в сторону при таком шве. Достаточно совершать небольшие оттяжки электродом в обратном направлении,на только что выполненый шов. Просто надо чуть приноровиться к одной стабильной скорости. И шов получается аккуратным и не широким, предотвращая перегрев металла. Чем больше колебания электрода,тем сильнее нагревается поверхность металла,отсюда и все деффекты. Прожог,наплывы и тд. При сварке тонкого металла не рекомендуется делать широкие валики при сварке. Для предотвращения прожога.
И кому Вы это рассказываете, кто хоть пару электродов сжег, тот сам додумался, как и что. А ролик для тех, кто никогда не варил и не будет. Но автор своего добился, его посмотрели.
Да до лампады все это уже. Чуть не на любом инверторе бюджетном есть функция аргоннодуговой сварки и разъем под кнопку управления. С помощью этой кнопки можешь дугу хоть разжигать, хоть прерывать, а на аппаратах подороже еще и силу тока менять. А что там у тебя в руках, горелка с вольфрамовым электродом, или держак с двоечкой, не суть важно. )
Если сварщик сварщик! То он должен знать как варить тонкий металл , как правильно выставить ток, каким электродом варить , и уж точно знать технологию ведения шва.
Só nao deu pra ver o final das duas juntas porque a tela final atrapalhou mas é assim mesmo q eu faço ou tento fazer em chapas finas eu tbem vou pontiando.
El punteo está bien aplicado pero no estoy de acuerdo en que haga el punteo sin parar, de arista a arista ( lado a lado, o esquina a esquina). Debe hacerlo en unas 3 secciones para dejar que se enfríe. Luego puentear el segundo tercio y dejar enfriar un poco. Por último se continúa el punteado hasta terminar el final del elemento. De esta forma se permite al material su recuperación y evitar deformaciones permanentes o perdidas de resistencia por el exceso de calor. Es preferible demorar 3 o 5 minutos más, pero asegurando la calidad. Ahí se podría aprovechar para puntear diferentes piezas y de esa forma ser más eficientes en los procesos de producción pero con el nivel de calidad que queremos que nos represente.
Agreed, but he put too much heat into the job which as you may know will actually do more harm than good. A 1.6 - 2.0mm electrode would have made a stronger weld with less heat input.
Hi there! Thanks for tip👍🏻😊. I have Q: 1) is ”hot start” and ”arc force” shut off when you stick weld these thin walls? If not, what settings? My esab tries to maintain arc when stick spot welding! BIG arcs are flashing 😝. 2) what polarity do you use? DCEN? 3) the thinner rods the better - 1.6mm? What type of rods in EU? ESAB OK46? Thanks for everybody’s wise support🥳🙏🏻
If you don't need the pipe to be hollow, you could put a square piece of 5mm flat iron inside to support the weld, and not have to worry about it melting through.
Лучше использовать присадку в виде отбитого электрода... Да и электрод надо подобрать, не всякая постоянка хорошо разжигаться будет если с отрывом варить А вообще полуавтомат нужно для таких работ, быстро, красиво, надёжно..
@@UserUser-hm4tw а почему бы и нет? , какие проблемы с полуавтоматом, забор из 4ки уже давно никто не делает, а 1-ку , запросто, А так то да, полуавтомат, аргон, дураки придумали 🤣
@@air-techrussia3538 у меня на забор столбы 3-ка, лаги 40*20 2-ка. Да можно и из полторашки,но это не крепко и недолговечно. Таскать баллон и полуавтомат по стройке такое себе и защитный газ ветром сдувает. Полуавтомат хорош в помещении.
Menurut saya cara yang lebih efektif adalah memakai kawat las yang 2mm, posisi kawatnya lebih miring dan volume trafonya di sesuaikan, pasti lebih mudah dan hasil akan lebih bagus
Dünnere Elektroden nehmen, mit den Ampere runter wäre auch eine Möglichkeit. Pro Millimeter Elektrodendurchmesser 40 Ampere, ist ein Richtwert, es geht aber auch deutlich weniger. Oder ein Fülldrahtschweißgerät verwenden, Vorschub richtig einstellen, damit gehts auch prima.
I don't have the luxury of a fully equipped commercial / industrial workshop - mig, tig, plasma, blah blah blah. I use my arc for ALL welding jobs. I'm just a self-taught 'amateur' and too 'stupid' to know what 'can't be done'. So with trial-and-error, patience and perseverance, miraculously it WORKS.
The only thing I have to say is moving the puddle around is better than just a strait movement. You burned through the first piece because you don't move fast enough, or stop the arc like you did with the 2nd sample. Simply strait would have worked just fine with just a tad off time. When I'm mig welding thin metal sometimes I stop the weld for a split second if I see the puddle is just going to melt everything and fall through. Gaps are very different then lap welds and you may need to adjust on the fly with irregular gaps as well. With steel a longer or shorter stick out and possibly some split second off time where gaps get larger. Just thought I would add I run to very different auto set welders and I like both, but with either I choose the metal thickness setting based off the type of weld / and or gap. An example would be welding 18 gauge steel with an 1/8 inch gap. I'll likely set it for 22 or 20 gauge , but on the other hand if rosette of plug weld I'll run it a gauge or two higher than the base metal setting.Those welds are for a short period of time and don't take into account the metal getting heat soaked, so that's why a hotter setting. for a proper weld
Moving too fast is even worse than moving too slow. When you move too fast your electrode has no time to melt and to form puddle in the place of arc so basically what you end up doing is making an arc that melts material but you don't add enough material to fill it. I have a shitty welder that can't go low enough with amperes for thin stuff and i learned that to weld with too much amperes it's easier to go slow and use very thick electrode so there would be a lot of material to form puddle, when you carefully form puddle on one place you can start to melt it with constant arc and let it flow in the direction in wich you want weld to form. This method gives very thick weld on the top but you can grind it down if you have to, the most important thing is that there are no holes or porosity wich is a problem if you start and stop arc like he did in video.
So good of them to place the promo for another video DIRECTLY over the final result!
If you touch the screen the promo disappears.
@@WildXNatur not here
So annoying
The author needs to add filler material at the end of the video so that the promo appears after the comparison. I agree, it's annoying in many other videos as well.
just use yt vanced man
Видео о том, как результат закрыть рекламой. Наверное заварил классно))
Ложишь на стык оббитый от обмазки электрод,зажигаешь на нем дугу и постепенно сплавляешь с него металл насвариваемые детали,формируя шов.Фактически ,получается сварка с присадкой,где тепло дуги используется для расплавле ния присадки
If you're limited to stick and welding thin material. Start by buying the right size rod so you can run proper amperage. Yours too high.
The other thing is try a slight push instead of dragging , to help control total heat input.(joules). And blowouts/burnthroughs.
Over heating base metal decreases it's structural integrity. Causing weak spots adjacent to weld.
As others have stated, other processes, mig, pulsed mig. Or tig are better suited for thin material.
What you did will work and have done it myself when caught in a jam.
But having the right size electrode (smaller) will enable you to weld it properly. Less chance of overheating, flaws in weld, easier, quicker, looks better.
Your technique is a good one to learn. Because it can be used in other situations as well. Especially when it comes to poor fitting and material build up is necessary.
👍
I love stick welding and considering buying one at home.
My questions are what brand is good for stick weld machine and range of price?
What size of electrode suitable for 1mm steel welding and its amperage?
Type of electrode suitable for aluminium frame weld?
This summer I had to rebuild some tubes on a cage style water tank enclosure. I used brazing rods, flux and my old oxy-acetylene rig. And it worked like a charm...
This is an old process, but it's still a very efficient one.
@@epokepok8019 That depends on what you want to weld. For thin metal until 3 mm and occasionally 5 mm a small inverter 130 amp max, but of good quality, able to work at a low 20 amps will do the job. It's around 200 bucks. The important is to have a welder able to work from 20 to 110 amps consistently and accurately.
For thin clean metal 1.5 mm rods SS309 are a pleasure. The stainless steel rods need very few amps, have a very soft arc, the slag falls by itself, and the welds are smooth, no need to grind after.
So the best are SS309 and SS312. The SS312 (a rod for all special steels (tooling, springs, manganese alloys, pinions, crankshafts and even the simple steels) give very ductile and very strong welds. Even the 2 or 2.5 mm may work on thin tubing.
For example, for welding square galvanized tubing caliber 14 (2 mm thick) I've often used 2.5 mm SS312 at 50 to 70 amps with minimal haze (burn) of the galvanization, the slag falls alone and the welds look nice and are strong. Just a bit of cold galvanization on the welds, and it's good. You save so much time and nerves that the price of these expensive the rods is worth.
Valid 'professional' comments.
I'm sure it's wonderful to have a fully equipped commercial / industrial workshop at your disposal.
Unfortunately we don't all have the benefit of such a variety of equipment - most notably home handy-persons who only occasionally have cause to weld something.
We have to find ways to work with what we have - or buy expensive 'specialist' equipment that's likely to be used only once, for about 30 mins.
I've successfully welded 1mm with an arc.
It takes trial-and-error and patience (and some extra grinding) but it CAN be done.
I'd LOVE to have a mig or tig, but for the few times I couldn't get by with my arc, I can't justify the cost.
I'd rather put the money towards tools I'll use frequently.
@@luillierstephane1463 absolutely, used to do a ton of it. Repair gas tanks, even exhaust. As well as other projects.
Brazing, gas welding are excellent skills to have.
No power needed is a plus too.
Great video! Great execution! about 40yrs ago my Dad taught me the same trick. It also reminded me how my Dad showed me how to weld a RUSTY Metal holes; is to jump back and forth, from side to side, heat range is important especially when all that is available is an AC welder, and so the idea is to let one side of the hole "cool off" is not to get rusting metal to hot and so all the metal "dump off". Clean and nice metal to weld is always the IDEAL way, but is not always possible if the alternate requires total replacement of many parts can sometimes be costly and time consuming.
Ah, 6011 the rust king.
Smoking hot to burn off crud on first pass then tune to base metal.
From farm equipment to commercial burning tables.
Biggest issue was poor initial construction.
Spot, tack,or stitch welds don't hold a candle to wraps and properly sized and well applied welds.
Good tip, the dang pop up ads covered up your work. Peace.
Haha lol
@@snapsaz6067 😊😊
Tip: drag and hold your thumb on screen to make those pop ups disappear.
As a welder I appreciate how good of a technique this is for thin metal.
Yes this is great if you're in a jam and literally only have a 1/8 rod. Use the right tools for the job if you can prepare ahead of time, using a 1/16 6013 rod and the correct amperage will produce uniform penetration and weld profile. This rod is specifically suited to welding thin materials. Using this trick you run the risk of lack of fusion, excessive heat input, etcetera, etcetera.
and inclusions - correct?
@@YT-User1013yeah welding over slag isn’t good
Gue liat dari bentuk holonya...
Yg pertama tipis yg kedua tebal...
Pemula jg tau kalo pengelasan material holo gak bisa garis kecuali lap 2bang... Coba yg lebih kerend..
Tp gue salut sama Abang.....
Biarpun sederhana tp berani....
Sukses ya🙏🙏🙏🙏
Милый человек хоть я вас не знаю.Мы не знакомы .Но по отзывам вы светлый человек И просто хочется сказать .Будь просто счастлив .Спасибо за все что вы делаете для людей .Здоровья вам на долгие годы.Надежных и преданых друзей .Что бы вы всегда были нужны кому то .И вас всегда ждали на этом большом шаре .Всех вам благ .Спасибо за вашу проделанную работу .Потраченные силы нервы время .Так держать.Низкий вам поклон .Респект и уважение
Exelente!!.
Gracias por compartir. Saludos desde México.
Thank you for posting this. I had not thought of doing it that way, before. Will definitely try it. Thanks.
Молодец, красиво прожигаешь, главное тока побольше.
That is how I weld my 1.6mm tubing.Very few if any blow outs.Also a 6013 2.5mm rod at 65 amps.Gtay safe.
Excelente consejo, es así mismo con se suelda c inverter 👏👏👏saludos dsd Montevideo Uruguay 🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾
Классно мы посмотрели в конце второй шов закрыт рекламой🤣
Я сюда зашёл именно об этом и написать автору нахрена он рекламу туда поместил 😡
Если с телефона смотришь то просто нажми на экран и держи палец картинка исчезнет.
Нажал на экран, держу палец. Картинка не исчезает 🤔
😄 😄
@@user-lc3yy7rn4w пробовал на нескольких устройствах всё работает . Если смотришь в развернутом виде ( на весь экран) то эта хрень становится прозрачной. Если держать телефон прямо соответственно на пол экрана картинка то совсем исчезает и надпись сверху появляется подсказка как перематывать.
Elle sont super tes vidéos, continu comme ça! J'apprécie qu'on puissent les comprendre sans le barrage de la langue!
un grand merci pour tous tes conseils, prends soin de toi, continue
Super useful to me. Thank you for sharing!
Que bárbaro llevo 20 años en la soldadura y la verdad no tenía ni la más remota idea de esa técnica tan perfecta en soldadura.🤭
Sabes ami me queda como la figura N 1 djdjdjdjd siempre y después pasa a chicharrón ekejeje será mucho amperaje o que barilla necesito para soldar .?¡!??
¿La soldadura en 1 mm?, me pareció perfecta. (Esos hoyos son para la ventilación).
Real smart putting an information box over the part of the picture showing the finished weld!
Hadir nyimak boss ku suksesselalu buatbossku 👍👍💪💪
좋은 노하우 알려주셔서 감사합니다,
Hey thx for sharing! You put up another vid right on top of the good weld. We could not see it.
Ótimo ensinamento. Pode até ter meios mais rápidos como explicam alguns comentários, mas essa forma é bem fácil
Parabéns. Valeu.
Big thanks! Very helpful!!
Muito obrigado valeu professor
Nice and clean!! You almost can't even see the weld!!
Необязательно водить электродом и делать колебательные движения в сторону при таком шве. Достаточно совершать небольшие оттяжки электродом в обратном направлении,на только что выполненый шов. Просто надо чуть приноровиться к одной стабильной скорости. И шов получается аккуратным и не широким, предотвращая перегрев металла. Чем больше колебания электрода,тем сильнее нагревается поверхность металла,отсюда и все деффекты. Прожог,наплывы и тд. При сварке тонкого металла не рекомендуется делать широкие валики при сварке. Для предотвращения прожога.
👍
И кому Вы это рассказываете, кто хоть пару электродов сжег, тот сам додумался, как и что. А ролик для тех, кто никогда не варил и не будет. Но автор своего добился, его посмотрели.
@@sergeich1071 RUZWELT RUS пишет как надо. Я читаю и на ус мотаю, а то учусь сварке методом проб и ошибок, а видео вообще так себе, не о чем.
Да до лампады все это уже. Чуть не на любом инверторе бюджетном есть функция аргоннодуговой сварки и разъем под кнопку управления. С помощью этой кнопки можешь дугу хоть разжигать, хоть прерывать, а на аппаратах подороже еще и силу тока менять. А что там у тебя в руках, горелка с вольфрамовым электродом, или держак с двоечкой, не суть важно. )
Автору этого зрелища похер... он лайфхак изобрёл!
well, thanks to your wise demonstration, now there are a few more of us who know about 1mm welding... 😜😄
Brilliant. The finished work covered by the next video.
I work with guy from Argentina and his welding was a piece of art
oh man so clean and and same size and line
Если сварщик сварщик! То он должен знать как варить тонкий металл , как правильно выставить ток, каким электродом варить , и уж точно знать технологию ведения шва.
팁을드리자면...
짧은용접은 짧은용접봉이 잘됩니다...짧은용접봉으로 끈어서 깔짝깔짝 빠르게 점용접으로하시면 풀용접보다 비드 이쁘게나와요...
Só nao deu pra ver o final das duas juntas porque a tela final atrapalhou mas é assim mesmo q eu faço ou tento fazer em chapas finas eu tbem vou pontiando.
Terima kasih pelajaran ngelasnya. Pemula bos
I will give this a try. Thank you 😁
Merci beaucoup Monsieur. Cela m’est bien utile.
Very informative channel. Thank you for sharing.
Merci pour la démonstration. Bravo.
Tuyết vời bạn ơi công tác lầu dài nè mình cũng ủng hộ nhé
Thanks.. Now I am one of them who knows about 1mm welding
Điều này tôi cũng biết lâu rồi, nhưng dù sao cũng cảm ơn bạn chia sẻ.
Amazing brother
É assim mesmo que eu aprendi soldar metalon fino de ponto em ponto ninguém nunca me ensinou eu aprendi sozinho mais você está certo é assim mesmo
Thanks for the tips.
Gracias, por fin voy a dejar de hacer hoyos en material de calibre delgado 👍🏼
Very helpful, thanks.
Is my bread ....congratulation ! Also TIG is fantastic !
Impressive going on and off like that I feel like I’d stick on every attempt going back in
Parabéns vc e o cará
الله ينور يا هندسة
El punteo está bien aplicado pero no estoy de acuerdo en que haga el punteo sin parar, de arista a arista ( lado a lado, o esquina a esquina). Debe hacerlo en unas 3 secciones para dejar que se enfríe. Luego puentear el segundo tercio y dejar enfriar un poco. Por último se continúa el punteado hasta terminar el final del elemento. De esta forma se permite al material su recuperación y evitar deformaciones permanentes o perdidas de resistencia por el exceso de calor. Es preferible demorar 3 o 5 minutos más, pero asegurando la calidad. Ahí se podría aprovechar para puntear diferentes piezas y de esa forma ser más eficientes en los procesos de producción pero con el nivel de calidad que queremos que nos represente.
初めまして、解りました、で、Migの場合は？素人が遣ります、お金の無いのが遣りますが、0*9㎜です、溶剤は中国です、其のやり方でも、熔けます、？？？此方の方も真ん中だけ溶けることをりかいしていますが、板のままなら此れでも最初から、電圧15Aに落としても駄目ですが？どうします？お金があれば、0*6㎜のフラッグス買える事が出来れば出来ますが？0*9㎜中華性で、遣ってみましょう、楽しいですよ、難しいから、それでも方法が在りますよ、0*9㎜以下の板の併せ板金、其しかない場合、此の方も、角から溶接しています、？？？
正しく日本語が、翻訳されて要ることを、期待して居ます
暇な爺より！
海外に行って、貴方なら其しかない場合、助けることが出来るでしょう！
Good job 👍 I think everyone is missing the point. Even with a stick welder, a steady and knowledge person can get the job done.
Agreed, but he put too much heat into the job which as you may know will actually do more harm than good. A 1.6 - 2.0mm electrode would have made a stronger weld with less heat input.
박판일땐 용접봉 심선의 두께만큼 뛰우고 키홀을 만들면서 태크식으로 해야 합니다..
물론 면으로 모재와 용접심선을 같이 녹이면서 아크 기둥이 만들어지는것을 봐야 하구요 그렇게 용착금속을 잘 만들어야 후면 백비드가 나옵니다..
후판일땐 베벨 가공해서 뛰워야 하구요...
Kerja bagus teman👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Hi there! Thanks for tip👍🏻😊. I have Q: 1) is ”hot start” and ”arc force” shut off when you stick weld these thin walls? If not, what settings? My esab tries to maintain arc when stick spot welding! BIG arcs are flashing 😝. 2) what polarity do you use? DCEN? 3) the thinner rods the better - 1.6mm? What type of rods in EU? ESAB OK46? Thanks for everybody’s wise support🥳🙏🏻
Super Video 🤩🤝
Muito bom vc é o cara.
Muchas gracias por el consejo
If you don't need the pipe to be hollow, you could put a square piece of 5mm flat iron inside to support the weld, and not have to worry about it melting through.
Thanks ilmunya bozkuu👍👍
Chia sẻ video tuyệt vời quá bạn ơi chúc bạn sức khỏe thành công hẹn gặp lại
Para fazer este tipo de solda uso um material pra fundir junto com o Eletrodo costurando as bases .
mantap bos q hasil nya sangat joos
Very nice, good luck bro
This is very good!
Parabéns 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Amazing 👍👍
Это долго, достаточно во время сварки поднимать электрод, что позволит снизить температуру.
Very good, love to learn more /cheers ScrapBongo Liked and Subbed
Лучше использовать присадку в виде отбитого электрода... Да и электрод надо подобрать, не всякая постоянка хорошо разжигаться будет если с отрывом варить
А вообще полуавтомат нужно для таких работ, быстро, красиво, надёжно..
Собирая забор бегать ещё с полуавтоматом.
@@UserUser-hm4tw многие работают уже и собирая забор...
@@air-techrussia3538 😳гении?
@@UserUser-hm4tw а почему бы и нет? , какие проблемы с полуавтоматом, забор из 4ки уже давно никто не делает, а 1-ку , запросто,
А так то да, полуавтомат, аргон, дураки придумали 🤣
@@air-techrussia3538 у меня на забор столбы 3-ка, лаги 40*20 2-ка. Да можно и из полторашки,но это не крепко и недолговечно. Таскать баллон и полуавтомат по стройке такое себе и защитный газ ветром сдувает. Полуавтомат хорош в помещении.
え！すげぇ！
Saludos desde ramos Arizpe Coahuila México
Ну нихуя себе!
GREAT IDEA BRO THANKS
Good nice 👍👍👍👍
Чем тоньше матерьял тем острее угол подачи электрода и можно варить без отрыва
Где ты был 20 лет назад? Я бы не ходил учиться!😂 Видосик глянул и умеешь 😂😂😂
Где зеленский?) зря вы выбрали клоуна на пост президента)
@@DOBRYNYA992, забыли у тебя спросить.🤧 У самого в стране пиздахана, а оно другим советы пытается раздавать.😆😆😆
Что у меня в стране?) это у тебя в стране дурдом)
Кстати, а че ты пишешь на языке агрессора?) че ты на своей мове не пишешь?)
@@DOBRYNYA992, бо ти-дурне, української не розумієш😆
Menurut saya cara yang lebih efektif adalah memakai kawat las yang 2mm, posisi kawatnya lebih miring dan volume trafonya di sesuaikan, pasti lebih mudah dan hasil akan lebih bagus
That's correct using arc done it for years no problem
Ustam harikasın çok beğendim her zaman senin takipçin olacağım teşekkürler
Nice video brother
Good job👍👍👍💖💖
Very Nice, thank you so much.
جميل شكرا لك
الورشه البحرينية للنجارة والاعمال اليدوية
용접각도를 기울이고 전압을 낮추어야 됩니다
Умница ! =)
You know its gonna be a good video when they break out the felt pen at the beginning.
Dünnere Elektroden nehmen, mit den Ampere runter wäre auch eine Möglichkeit. Pro Millimeter Elektrodendurchmesser 40 Ampere, ist ein Richtwert, es geht aber auch deutlich weniger. Oder ein Fülldrahtschweißgerät verwenden, Vorschub richtig einstellen, damit gehts auch prima.
is it recomended to use DCEN for welding such thin metals sadik...
Que tipo de Soldadura es 6013??
En Chile 🇨🇱 usamos 6010,6011, 7018 entre otras
Excellent
Thank you,very much
0:34 да ставь ампер 200 осталось то чуток докрутить и форсаж до упора. )))
Все верно, как принцип езды на танках, больше скорость, меньше ям!
Entendi. Vou testar.
My grinder makes me an amazing welder
I don't have the luxury of a fully equipped commercial / industrial workshop - mig, tig, plasma, blah blah blah.
I use my arc for ALL welding jobs.
I'm just a self-taught 'amateur' and too 'stupid' to know what 'can't be done'.
So with trial-and-error, patience and perseverance, miraculously it WORKS.
The only thing I have to say is moving the puddle around is better than just a strait movement. You burned through the first piece because you don't move fast enough, or stop the arc like you did with the 2nd sample. Simply strait would have worked just fine with just a tad off time. When I'm mig welding thin metal sometimes I stop the weld for a split second if I see the puddle is just going to melt everything and fall through. Gaps are very different then lap welds and you may need to adjust on the fly with irregular gaps as well. With steel a longer or shorter stick out and possibly some split second off time where gaps get larger. Just thought I would add I run to very different auto set welders and I like both, but with either I choose the metal thickness setting based off the type of weld / and or gap. An example would be welding 18 gauge steel with an 1/8 inch gap. I'll likely set it for 22 or 20 gauge , but on the other hand if rosette of plug weld I'll run it a gauge or two higher than the base metal setting.Those welds are for a short period of time and don't take into account the metal getting heat soaked, so that's why a hotter setting. for a proper weld
Moving too fast is even worse than moving too slow. When you move too fast your electrode has no time to melt and to form puddle in the place of arc so basically what you end up doing is making an arc that melts material but you don't add enough material to fill it. I have a shitty welder that can't go low enough with amperes for thin stuff and i learned that to weld with too much amperes it's easier to go slow and use very thick electrode so there would be a lot of material to form puddle, when you carefully form puddle on one place you can start to melt it with constant arc and let it flow in the direction in wich you want weld to form. This method gives very thick weld on the top but you can grind it down if you have to, the most important thing is that there are no holes or porosity wich is a problem if you start and stop arc like he did in video.
@@Dymitr_Nawrocki A good weld is always on the verge of burn through.
@@heavymetalmadness666 Yeah but if you weld 1mm it's either at verge of burn through or burn through.
ممكن بعد اذنك تشرح تلحيم حديد بالزاويا دي __|__ ( زاويا ٩٠ درجة ) انا بتحصل معايا مشكلتين الاولى الحديد بيتخرم والمشكلة التانية الزاويا بتتغير مغ التلحيم
Мало кто знает? Да это же очевидно даже начинающему сварщику!