I do end grain boards on my thickness planer all the time. The trick is to glue a sacrificial piece to each end of the board to control the really bad tear out common with end grain in a planer. I also take very light passes and find it does work for end grain. But I have not had the budget for a drum sander yet so I did click on your video to check them out.
Great Video! I think a planer is the last of the "primary tools" needed to fill out a shop. A drum sander is the first of the "Luxury" tools to buy once you have a complete set of primary tools. (Table saw, miter saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer being the primary tools in order)
@@SixEightWoodworks for sure. Like people who make small decorative items probably wouldn't need a table saw, or wood turners probably don't need a jointer. Im kind of a generalist, i make candle sticks to dining tables.
I know this video is 2 years old, I see that's the 734. I suggest to people go for the 735 dewalt. Why? TWO SPEEDS, the higher speed helps with finer finish, and if you upgrade the cutting wheel/knives thing they pair nicely. I have a friend who owns the 735 and I use it alot, he had the 734 for a week and didn't like it. Spend the extra cash and go for the 735. Don't go to Harbor freight and try to rig up a planer sled, or a router sled. Get a thickness planer. Pay once, cry once you'll thank me later. If you made it this far, thank you. I have another tip, don't get down that you can't afford the tools yet. Work with what you got, or at least scrape for some basic stuff. If you make things, sell them, then over time you'll find you'll get there. I believe in you.
A few comments I'll add about helical bladed planer thicknessers. The big one for me is that they are much quieter. We used to have a DeWalt planer at my Menz Shed and the noise it made was appalling. I couldn't possibly have a straight bladed planer in my home shop. The neighbours wouldn't have put up with it. We have a MACMA 15" helical planer now and it is probably a touch quieter than our table saw. It makes a slightly cleaner cut than the DeWalt, but still leaves lines across the work piece. I had nothing to do with setting it up, and I doubt that a lot of care was taken by whoever did fit the inserts. Another advantage is that the helical head produces small chips instead of the long strands the HSS blades put out, so it does not clog the dust extractor like the DeWalt planer did (with damp timber). So I would 100% recommend paying that extra couple of hundred for helical heads. I think most of the guitar and violin luthier channel guys have drum sanders. At least two of them made their own.
Great video. Have a Dewalt like yours. Had an OLD Ryobi 16/32 drum sander. Parts unavailable. Bought a Jet 16/32. Love it!!! Picked Jet mainly to to availability, didn't want to wait 4-6 months for it. At my local yard S4S is cheaper then RGH for soft woods. Planer stays out in garage, drum sander in cellar workshop. Do mostly cutting boards, mostly end grain
I just had some terrible chipping on some Purple Heart with my ridged planer. I spent a day re-surfacing the wood on my CNC. So, after that, I’m in the market for a drum sander.
Thanks for the video. I can see the sander's usefulness for dimensioning for the challenging materials you note, but if you get some scrapers, you'll never be happy with a sanded finish again :)
That was a helpful video - thanks! I agree with your comment about chip-out when thickness planing. I find that changing the blades more often helps minimize that. I’m also considering going to a helical head planer. King International makes one that’s more affordable than most.
Personally, I skipped the planer & just went with an 18/36 drum sander. Mostly because I have a bunch of lightly to highly figured woods that I purchased years & years ago, and I can still do heavy material removal using 24 grit & 36 grit sand paper. You don't HAVE to re-sand after using your drum sander.... You can get 600, 800, & even 1000 grit rolls for about $20 per 20 yards which will leave you without any sanding lines. It just depends on how far you want to go. Obviously for a single large board or a few small boards, it'll be quicker and easier to finish with an ros, but if you're running dozens of boards, might be worth it to run that super fine paper & skip doing every board with an ros.
This is what i was thinking as well! Thank you for your comment. 13:37 Do you ever send barnwood or rough sawn wood through the drum sander? Or does it take too long? I thought I would burn through too much sand paper. Thanks
Cheers for the video and HNY... I am in the UK and have the DW733 Thicknesser and the Laguna (Supermax) 16/32 Drum Sander. I love them both, but more and more I am using the Drum Sander, especially with 40grit paper. But both machines are great. Cheers Paul
Open ended drum sander ! Smart ! I have considered a drum sander and I never thought of this. Who makes the cool red metal framed workbench you are using. New Subscriber as of today. Great channel !
I have a planer love it yes it a lot for my ping pong shooters I make I have always wanted a drum sander and I will get one next year after we move back to Oregon 🤙🏼 great job on your videos learned a lot very good info 🤙🏼
Regarding snipe, the drum sander, and the planer are the same. It is the initial settings of both machines that are dramatically different. If you lowered the cut depth of the planer, to that of the sander ... 0.01 mm then you wont get snipe with the planer....
Thanks for the excellent video. You mentioned planer/ thicknessers aren't very good if you are useing finger jointed stock. I have to make some 4mtr long kitchen counter tops useing all finger jointed Para/Rubber wood. I have to buy one machine so bearing in mind it will be finger jointed stock, which would you buy, the planer/thicknesser or the Drum Sander? Thanks again
Been kicking around buying a drum sander for years. It's about the only piece of major equipment I'm without at this point and I've been saving a spot in my shop. One question no one ever seems to touch on. What about snipe? Even set up correctly with in and outfeed tables, you still get snipe with a planer. How bad is it with a drum sander?
Had to look up where the term 'thicknesser' is even used. Figures it would be Australia and the UK; the lands of lorries as trucks, lifts as elevators, and a 'cup-a' meaning coffee or tea.
Bit of an FYI, Planers and thicknessers are two different things here in the uncultured land of down under.. planers, such and hand planes or electric planers, are used to selectively remove material from a smaller area of a piece, whereas a thicknesser removes material from the entire piece.
Thanks for posting this video, very informative. I’m looking to buy a drum sander and am considering the SM 19-38. It’s been almost a year since your original comparison and I’m curious how it’s held up and would you still recommend it based on your experience to date?
My big debate was a planer or a jointer then i ended up buying a router table go figure ..... Now i think a drum sander and a router table for me. I wanted to get me a planer for so long but i have learned to use my CNC for a surface plane if i need. takes longer but i can do a 32"x 32" for edge joining i use the router table
Which Dewalt planner do you prefer, I seen they have 2 different ones at lowes, 12.5 and 13 in wide. I'm sure they have others features,one is about 200 dollars more tho. Looking to buy one soon. Just wanted what one you would recommend.
QUESTION!!! - I bought a planer in the past to help level out the wood I was using for engraving. I prefer working with live edge pieces. After watching this video, I think I know what went wrong. I tried to level out a basswood round and the planer just tore it up. Am I right in thinking that it is because the rounds are end grain (and I probably should not have been doing the rounds in the planer)? If it were a live edge board rather than the round, would the edge have been safe in the planer? Thanks in advance!
Yes, if it’s a wood round “cookie” and end grain, a planer can’t level it out without tear out. But edge or face grain has no such issues and safe to use in the planer.
It looks like you are having to help the material through the drum sander. Is it a conveyor belt traction/power issue or are you just finding something to do with your hands?
Yeah, I’ve been lazy and haven’t realigned the front roller. Not much of an issue and pretty sure it’s just from not adjusting the roller. They have a video showing how to adjust and it’s pretty straightforward. Just haven’t gotten around to it.
I already have a great Jet drum sander. 90% of what I use is figured wood (birdseye maple, walnut, curly maple & figured cherry). Is it worth it to buy a thickness planer to worth on rough cut lumber?
With planers, if you work with a piece of wood you want to plan, don't cut it to measure yet. Leave it a bit longer to help with snipe. Nothing worse than a nice piece of walnut and then poof it gets sniped and now you have to thin it out even more. Not that I would know anything about that, no sir not me.
It’s a sanding stick. Cleans off the sandpaper and allows for longer life of the sandpaper. I use it on all my sanders. Lasts forever. POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Nkv7FbGMPFZ5S
Thanks for the video. I have a sawmill and now have tons of really nice roughsawn cherry to process. I guess it's a 20" planer I'll be buying.I did notice that you kept "assisting" the belt drive on the sander. Is it stalling or not moving fast enough?
I wonder if some of your concerns about planers are alleviated by a two speed planer like the Dewalt 735 13" that has a slower speed. That planer you have is one speed and spins really fast.
Thanks! It is a bigger footprint for sure. I have seen someone put it on a flip top stand and it could handle the weight. But shop space is a premium for most.
Thanks for another great video! After watching a few of your videos I decided to get a drum sander, but I’m having trouble deciding on which one. What would you recommend? Any problems out of yours? Thanks.
will a drum sander take out the bow on clear pine to flatten before running in my cnc machine? I have the same planner you. have used it yet. was my dads. I hear its not kind to pine and pine chews up planner blades.
It can. You might need to shim the board with hot glue and run it through on a MDF board. Drum sander will go slower than a planer though. I’d probably go with the planer. But options for sure.
Great videos. Enjoy your content and explanations. A 16-32 Laguna is my next purchase. Mainly I hope to flatten figured wood cutting boards and fixing chip put caused by the planer. Is it realistic to think this sander can flatten and fix chip out without dozens of passes through the sander?
You bet! Depends on how bad the chip out gets. I usually run my boards through the planer to almost final thickness. Then finish at the drum sander to account for planer snipe, or chip out. Not too many passes with 80 grit. Obviously variables and exceptions. But not too bad.
@@SixEightWoodworks thanks for the feedback! This weekend I went and bought the drum sander. What a tool! Still dialing in a few things, but overall love it. Any coaching you can offer for dealing with the sanding lines that persist? They seem most evident with the 80 grit. I then have to use the random orbit sander to remove the lines. Do you think I am attempting to sand too deeply?.....maybe lighter passes...?
Just found your channel via 731 Woodworks. Like your content, keep it up! Also wanted to let you know that your Amazon link in the description doesn’t work for me - it opens as a 0kb file? (Safari on iPhone)
Appreciate it and thanks for letting me know. Just changed the link. Here it is: Check out this page from Six Eight Woodworks www.amazon.com/shop/6_8woodworks?ref=inf_pub_6_8woodworks
Can you still use the sander like a planer tho? Like in your demonstration with the planer, can you do the same thing with a drum sander? It might take a little longer but can it still be done? Thanks.
I talk more about the concerns in my end grain brick board video. Plenty of people do use the helical head with end grain. I’ve just heard too many sketchy stories. If you add sacrificial boards and the from and back, and go with super light passes, it would probably be ok with helical. Just not worth the risk for myself personally.
When I was looking into building end-grain cutting board, this subject came up, I decided to do a little research and I'm glad I did. Of course their are many misleading videos here that could get you hurt, but you can pretty much tell when someone has the experience and you kinda trust their knowledge. I found a video on this subject and I'm glad I did. It was a very informative video but the comments posted proved this man's point, do not run end-grain through a planner. There was one post " I wished I would of seen this post last night, it would of saved me a trip to the hospital". I read several more comments where people had accidents or destroyed their planners. It convenience me to purchase the drum sander! I absolutely love it, it's worth the money!
It’s a good unit. I’ve been really happy with it. Unfortunately, this particular one really needs a dedicated 30 Amp circuit. I have a 110 20 Amp, but it still trips a lot. Worth the savings over the comparable Laguna. Would recommend a 220 unit if you can swing it.
I'm going to give an unpopular opinion here, first of all the type of planer you have will work, but are not great, depending on what you are doing they can be serviceable. the reason you will always get snipe is because there is no pressure bar and the head rocks as the board goes in and leaves the machine, there is no way to stop that, other than. few techniques that can hide it some. As For a drum sander, they're slow, they burn up paper really quick, they leave lines which take forever to sand out, and even though they say you can sand wider boards because of the open end it really doesn't work well depending how the head flexes and how its set up you'll get a deep groove in the machine when you flip it. The best bet is to find a local shop that has a wide belt sander and have them run it for you, in the long run you'll save money due to the cost of the sander and all the time you will spend sanding after to get the lines out, off the wide belt you can just hit it with a quick 120 and you can finish sand from there. takes all of 3 minutes
I'd kill myself if I bought 1000s of dollars in woodworking tools and I spent my time making cutting boards. Quite literally just gluing slats of wood together, maybe add some contrasting woods oooo.
I do end grain boards on my thickness planer all the time. The trick is to glue a sacrificial piece to each end of the board to control the really bad tear out common with end grain in a planer. I also take very light passes and find it does work for end grain. But I have not had the budget for a drum sander yet so I did click on your video to check them out.
Great Video! I think a planer is the last of the "primary tools" needed to fill out a shop. A drum sander is the first of the "Luxury" tools to buy once you have a complete set of primary tools. (Table saw, miter saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer being the primary tools in order)
Yeah, totally depends on how specialized you get into different woodworking disciplines.
@@SixEightWoodworks for sure. Like people who make small decorative items probably wouldn't need a table saw, or wood turners probably don't need a jointer.
Im kind of a generalist, i make candle sticks to dining tables.
Exactly right.
Always used a drum sander never owned a planner I absolutely love mine
I know this video is 2 years old, I see that's the 734. I suggest to people go for the 735 dewalt. Why? TWO SPEEDS, the higher speed helps with finer finish, and if you upgrade the cutting wheel/knives thing they pair nicely. I have a friend who owns the 735 and I use it alot, he had the 734 for a week and didn't like it. Spend the extra cash and go for the 735.
Don't go to Harbor freight and try to rig up a planer sled, or a router sled. Get a thickness planer. Pay once, cry once you'll thank me later.
If you made it this far, thank you. I have another tip, don't get down that you can't afford the tools yet. Work with what you got, or at least scrape for some basic stuff. If you make things, sell them, then over time you'll find you'll get there. I believe in you.
Love the part when you and your son was working on the planner together when you had sped up the video. So cool to you guys moving so fast.
Thanks!
Thanks - I'm trying to make this very decision - this was helpful!
Just today I was looking information of drum sanders. This gets me a better idea for what a need. Thx!
Awesome! Happy to hear and hope it helps.
A few comments I'll add about helical bladed planer thicknessers. The big one for me is that they are much quieter. We used to have a DeWalt planer at my Menz Shed and the noise it made was appalling. I couldn't possibly have a straight bladed planer in my home shop. The neighbours wouldn't have put up with it. We have a MACMA 15" helical planer now and it is probably a touch quieter than our table saw. It makes a slightly cleaner cut than the DeWalt, but still leaves lines across the work piece. I had nothing to do with setting it up, and I doubt that a lot of care was taken by whoever did fit the inserts. Another advantage is that the helical head produces small chips instead of the long strands the HSS blades put out, so it does not clog the dust extractor like the DeWalt planer did (with damp timber). So I would 100% recommend paying that extra couple of hundred for helical heads. I think most of the guitar and violin luthier channel guys have drum sanders. At least two of them made their own.
Great video. Have a Dewalt like yours. Had an OLD Ryobi 16/32 drum sander. Parts unavailable. Bought a Jet 16/32. Love it!!! Picked Jet mainly to to availability, didn't want to wait 4-6 months for it. At my local yard S4S is cheaper then RGH for soft woods. Planer stays out in garage, drum sander in cellar workshop. Do mostly cutting boards, mostly end grain
I just had some terrible chipping on some Purple Heart with my ridged planer. I spent a day re-surfacing the wood on my CNC. So, after that, I’m in the market for a drum sander.
Great info, thanks.
Thanks for the video. I can see the sander's usefulness for dimensioning for the challenging materials you note, but if you get some scrapers, you'll never be happy with a sanded finish again :)
Drum sanders are a must for curly and birdseye maple.
That was a helpful video - thanks! I agree with your comment about chip-out when thickness planing. I find that changing the blades more often helps minimize that. I’m also considering going to a helical head planer. King International makes one that’s more affordable than most.
For sure! Have to remember those light passes. I hope to upgrade to a helical head unit one day.
Thankyou for the comparison.
great vid, thanks dude
Personally, I skipped the planer & just went with an 18/36 drum sander. Mostly because I have a bunch of lightly to highly figured woods that I purchased years & years ago, and I can still do heavy material removal using 24 grit & 36 grit sand paper.
You don't HAVE to re-sand after using your drum sander.... You can get 600, 800, & even 1000 grit rolls for about $20 per 20 yards which will leave you without any sanding lines. It just depends on how far you want to go.
Obviously for a single large board or a few small boards, it'll be quicker and easier to finish with an ros, but if you're running dozens of boards, might be worth it to run that super fine paper & skip doing every board with an ros.
This is what i was thinking as well! Thank you for your comment. 13:37 Do you ever send barnwood or rough sawn wood through the drum sander? Or does it take too long? I thought I would burn through too much sand paper. Thanks
good video! i’m saving money now to get planer
You’ll love it!
Cheers for the video and HNY... I am in the UK and have the DW733 Thicknesser and the Laguna (Supermax) 16/32 Drum Sander. I love them both, but more and more I am using the Drum Sander, especially with 40grit paper. But both machines are great. Cheers Paul
Absolutely! It’s amazing how quickly it goes when I switch to 36 grit! Great units!
Do you ever send barnwood or rough sawn wood through the drum sander? Or does it take too long? Thanks
Open ended drum sander ! Smart ! I have considered a drum sander and I never thought of this. Who makes the cool red metal framed workbench you are using. New Subscriber as of today. Great channel !
Very good information, thank you Nick. Really enjoy your videos and the work you do, keep it coming!
Really appreciate it!
I have a planer love it yes it a lot for my ping pong shooters I make I have always wanted a drum sander and I will get one next year after we move back to Oregon 🤙🏼 great job on your videos learned a lot very good info 🤙🏼
Awesome. Thanks!
Hubby Loved It!
Regarding snipe, the drum sander, and the planer are the same. It is the initial settings of both machines that are dramatically different. If you lowered the cut depth of the planer, to that of the sander ... 0.01 mm then you wont get snipe with the planer....
Do you ever send barnwood or rough sawn wood through the drum sander? Or does it take too long? Thanks
Thanks for the excellent video. You mentioned planer/ thicknessers aren't very good if you are useing finger jointed stock. I have to make some 4mtr long kitchen counter tops useing all finger jointed Para/Rubber wood. I have to buy one machine so bearing in mind it will be finger jointed stock, which would you buy, the planer/thicknesser or the Drum Sander? Thanks again
Great video , thank you …..
thank you. I do need to start with a planer but maybe upgrade later. Plus I have limited space right now.
Planers are amazing!
It’s not just the cost of the drum sander but add to it the dust removal system required to use it!
Been kicking around buying a drum sander for years. It's about the only piece of major equipment I'm without at this point and I've been saving a spot in my shop. One question no one ever seems to touch on. What about snipe? Even set up correctly with in and outfeed tables, you still get snipe with a planer. How bad is it with a drum sander?
Minimal snipe with the drum sander. Definitely possible. But for me it’s been non existent.
Had to look up where the term 'thicknesser' is even used. Figures it would be Australia and the UK; the lands of lorries as trucks, lifts as elevators, and a 'cup-a' meaning coffee or tea.
😁 Yeah, quite a few questions this last year referenced the planer as thicknesser, so thought I should identify it in the video.
Bit of an FYI, Planers and thicknessers are two different things here in the uncultured land of down under.. planers, such and hand planes or electric planers, are used to selectively remove material from a smaller area of a piece, whereas a thicknesser removes material from the entire piece.
do you ever have to use a sled on the sander, like you might have to on the planer?
Thanks for posting this video, very informative. I’m looking to buy a drum sander and am considering the SM 19-38. It’s been almost a year since your original comparison and I’m curious how it’s held up and would you still recommend it based on your experience to date?
My big debate was a planer or a jointer then i ended up buying a router table go figure ..... Now i think a drum sander and a router table for me. I wanted to get me a planer for so long but i have learned to use my CNC for a surface plane if i need. takes longer but i can do a 32"x 32" for edge joining i use the router table
Great video thank you very much!
Hope it helped!
Which Dewalt planner do you prefer, I seen they have 2 different ones at lowes, 12.5 and 13 in wide. I'm sure they have others features,one is about 200 dollars more tho.
Looking to buy one soon. Just wanted what one you would recommend.
Will this work with wood that is 1/8”-1/4” thick?
QUESTION!!! - I bought a planer in the past to help level out the wood I was using for engraving. I prefer working with live edge pieces. After watching this video, I think I know what went wrong. I tried to level out a basswood round and the planer just tore it up. Am I right in thinking that it is because the rounds are end grain (and I probably should not have been doing the rounds in the planer)? If it were a live edge board rather than the round, would the edge have been safe in the planer? Thanks in advance!
Yes, if it’s a wood round “cookie” and end grain, a planer can’t level it out without tear out. But edge or face grain has no such issues and safe to use in the planer.
It looks like you are having to help the material through the drum sander. Is it a conveyor belt traction/power issue or are you just finding something to do with your hands?
Yeah, I’ve been lazy and haven’t realigned the front roller. Not much of an issue and pretty sure it’s just from not adjusting the roller. They have a video showing how to adjust and it’s pretty straightforward. Just haven’t gotten around to it.
Happy new year!
Happy New Year!
I already have a great Jet drum sander. 90% of what I use is figured wood (birdseye maple, walnut, curly maple & figured cherry). Is it worth it to buy a thickness planer to worth on rough cut lumber?
It definitely speeds up the process with glue ups. I think it’s great to have. It’s personally. But you can get by with just the drum sander.
With planers, if you work with a piece of wood you want to plan, don't cut it to measure yet. Leave it a bit longer to help with snipe. Nothing worse than a nice piece of walnut and then poof it gets sniped and now you have to thin it out even more. Not that I would know anything about that, no sir not me.
That’s terrific thanks
Appreciate it!
Great video! Thanks so much for all the insight! What are you rubbing/putting on the drum sander with the block?
It’s a sanding stick. Cleans off the sandpaper and allows for longer life of the sandpaper. I use it on all my sanders. Lasts forever.
POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Nkv7FbGMPFZ5S
I take a water squirt bottle and LIGHTLY mist curly maple before running it through the planer. No more chip out. No harm/rust to planer.
That’s awesome!
What the name of that sander
Thanks for the video. I have a sawmill and now have tons of really nice roughsawn cherry to process. I guess it's a 20" planer I'll be buying.I did notice that you kept "assisting" the belt drive on the sander. Is it stalling or not moving fast enough?
Yeah, would love to get a 20” unit. It just goes super slow. It can stall out sometimes if I run too deep a pass.
I wonder if some of your concerns about planers are alleviated by a two speed planer like the Dewalt 735 13" that has a slower speed. That planer you have is one speed and spins really fast.
great video nick. i just have the dewalt 13". a drum sander would be nice but i dont think i can afford the space it takes up.
Thanks! It is a bigger footprint for sure. I have seen someone put it on a flip top stand and it could handle the weight. But shop space is a premium for most.
Thanks for another great video! After watching a few of your videos I decided to get a drum sander, but I’m having trouble deciding on which one. What would you recommend? Any problems out of yours? Thanks.
I really do enjoy mine. It takes some time getting used to how it feeds and tensioning. But great model. Would recommend it. I have the Superman 19-38
@@SixEightWoodworks thank you!
The price !
So dpo you start with 120 and go down like normal to say 220 then grab the Orbital? I really want one but i need more info than a sell sheet.
I usually just leave 80 on and then use the orbital.
will a drum sander take out the bow on clear pine to flatten before running in my cnc machine? I have the same planner you. have used it yet. was my dads. I hear its not kind to pine and pine chews up planner blades.
It can. You might need to shim the board with hot glue and run it through on a MDF board. Drum sander will go slower than a planer though. I’d probably go with the planer. But options for sure.
Great video!
Thank you!
Great videos. Enjoy your content and explanations. A 16-32 Laguna is my next purchase. Mainly I hope to flatten figured wood cutting boards and fixing chip put caused by the planer. Is it realistic to think this sander can flatten and fix chip out without dozens of passes through the sander?
You bet! Depends on how bad the chip out gets. I usually run my boards through the planer to almost final thickness. Then finish at the drum sander to account for planer snipe, or chip out. Not too many passes with 80 grit. Obviously variables and exceptions. But not too bad.
@@SixEightWoodworks thanks for the feedback! This weekend I went and bought the drum sander. What a tool! Still dialing in a few things, but overall love it. Any coaching you can offer for dealing with the sanding lines that persist? They seem most evident with the 80 grit. I then have to use the random orbit sander to remove the lines. Do you think I am attempting to sand too deeply?.....maybe lighter passes...?
Unfortunately it’s normal to have the lines. I primarily keep 80 grit on the drum and then use the orbital to remove the lines.
Just found your channel via 731 Woodworks. Like your content, keep it up! Also wanted to let you know that your Amazon link in the description doesn’t work for me - it opens as a 0kb file? (Safari on iPhone)
Appreciate it and thanks for letting me know. Just changed the link. Here it is: Check out this page from Six Eight Woodworks www.amazon.com/shop/6_8woodworks?ref=inf_pub_6_8woodworks
Great video, thanks. So, is there no snipe at all on the drum sander?
There is some. Just virtually nonexistent compared to the planer.
Can you still use the sander like a planer tho? Like in your demonstration with the planer, can you do the same thing with a drum sander? It might take a little longer but can it still be done? Thanks.
Definitely. It works as a thicknesser, just slower.
@@SixEightWoodworks Great. Thank you so much for answering.
A drum sander it is then!!😃👍
Thanks again.
What about a helical cutter for the planner?
Will it enable it's use on endgrain or does it serve another purpose?
I talk more about the concerns in my end grain brick board video.
Plenty of people do use the helical head with end grain. I’ve just heard too many sketchy stories. If you add sacrificial boards and the from and back, and go with super light passes, it would probably be ok with helical. Just not worth the risk for myself personally.
When I was looking into building end-grain cutting board, this subject came up, I decided to do a little research and I'm glad I did. Of course their are many misleading videos here that could get you hurt, but you can pretty much tell when someone has the experience and you kinda trust their knowledge. I found a video on this subject and I'm glad I did. It was a very informative video but the comments posted proved this man's point, do not run end-grain through a planner. There was one post " I wished I would of seen this post last night, it would of saved me a trip to the hospital". I read several more comments where people had accidents or destroyed their planners. It convenience me to purchase the drum sander! I absolutely love it, it's worth the money!
This is off the subject but what type of glue do you use on your cutting boards
For cutting boards I use Titebond 3.
@@SixEightWoodworks thank you
great video! do you recommend your dust collection? I know the drum sander needs a good dust collector machine
It’s a good unit. I’ve been really happy with it. Unfortunately, this particular one really needs a dedicated 30 Amp circuit. I have a 110 20 Amp, but it still trips a lot. Worth the savings over the comparable Laguna. Would recommend a 220 unit if you can swing it.
@@SixEightWoodworks thank you
Go Hawks!
Go Hawks!
Do you find you don’t need the in feed outfeed tables? Looks like you don’t I guess since you have the shop cart.
It would be nice, but with my set up, it’s isn’t a must have yet. One day I’ll pick them up though.
It’s funny how you are chasing the planner across the tables 😂
For sure! So overdue to I make a flip top stand!
You need both if you work w figured words
Agreed!
I'm going to give an unpopular opinion here, first of all the type of planer you have will work, but are not great, depending on what you are doing they can be serviceable. the reason you will always get snipe is because there is no pressure bar and the head rocks as the board goes in and leaves the machine, there is no way to stop that, other than. few techniques that can hide it some. As For a drum sander, they're slow, they burn up paper really quick, they leave lines which take forever to sand out, and even though they say you can sand wider boards because of the open end it really doesn't work well depending how the head flexes and how its set up you'll get a deep groove in the machine when you flip it. The best bet is to find a local shop that has a wide belt sander and have them run it for you, in the long run you'll save money due to the cost of the sander and all the time you will spend sanding after to get the lines out, off the wide belt you can just hit it with a quick 120 and you can finish sand from there. takes all of 3 minutes
This video saved me mucho shekels
Drum sander it is
Need to use a lavalier microphone to improve your audio.
👍 Yep, bought one a year ago. One day I’ll get around to using it 😁
you go broke buying blades for those planers. they dont last long.
I'd kill myself if I bought 1000s of dollars in woodworking tools and I spent my time making cutting boards. Quite literally just gluing slats of wood together, maybe add some contrasting woods oooo.