I got the rear 20x4" conversion kit with a 48V Sabvaoton sine-wave dual-mode 45A controller, a super quiet 1500W brushless direct-drive hub motor, and a SW900 display off of ebay for $365 shipped and I luv it. I'm 6'5/250lb and it'll hit a little over 38mph with me, and 42mph with my 6'2/195lb brother on it! I've got two parallel connected 48V 10.4Ah batteries that get me around 33 miles on low-mid level driving (Setting 3/5) and about 21 miles on high-level driving (Setting 5/5).
You can get your tires filled with soft springy rubber at the off road or heavy/farm tire shops. Then they won't go flat. Last I checked it was about twice the price on an inner tube and tire
we cut a 1 inch thick peice of those pool noodles made of foam and put between the tire and tube .and in the rare event of a bad flat it also works as a run flat great solution for a few bucks
"Flat-Out" tube-sealer is better/cheaper as well. Have it in both tires... (thorns, glass, nails, broken auto-parts... doesn't even matter... tube seals within a few seconds.
I get nail flats even on my ebike with massive dirt bike tires. I would love a Tannus insert for a 21" motorcycle tire. maybe even a plastic ribbon to prevent some punctures too.
And tape the hell out of your rims. No flat protection on the outside of it will protect against a loose spoke head. not even slime will stop those leaks.
To me, the easiest and best way to increase speed and power is to add a front hub direct drive motor to your existing setup. Once you experience a dual wheel drive bike you will never want to go back to a rear only setup. You will, however have to use two batteries and two separate controllers, and the bike will be a lot heavier, but the extra power makes up for it. Climbing the steepest of hills is no longer a struggle.Be sure to use torque arms on the front fork. The front hub kits are pretty affordable too. I got mine for less than $250. The extra battery will cost you though.
@@lordgrape5015 No, it does not matter. I have a 750 watt gear driven rear wheel, and a 1000 watt direct drive in the front. In fact, I use two different voltage batteries. I use a 52v rear, and 60v front. You just have to be careful with using the front wheel, as it is so powerful. But the thing is a beast. Top speed is around 38 mph.
So im actually thinking of doing this with my older Giant E-bike. I want to add a fwd hub, do you think i could run a wire coming from the existing battery to the Hub's controller?
@@kutaren Maybe it's possible, but I think you'd be better off using two separate batteries and two controllers. One battery would have to be HUGE to handle the current draw. And you would need extra thick cables to supply power, otherwise it will burn up.
An alternative to trannus for the price is schwalbe marathon. They have emtb variants. Only reason I would use tannus over schwalbe marathons is if there is no size that fits my rims
There are no geared hub motors currently on the market that are designed to take more than 1kw burst, 750w nominal... at 48v. Pumping 60v into one is fun, but you're going to tear up and be replacing those nylon gear MUCH sooner than probably think, especially depending on how quick you squeeze the throttle. Sure you can replace the nylon gears with metal ones, but stripping the central axle gear, which isn't user replaceable, and overheating are the next issues.
I have been messing with some ebikes, and Ive found that the best performance is the mid drive, but it comes with the cost of wear and maintenance, so you have to be willing to work on your bike a lot. The 750 watt hub motor works really well everywhere fine except the big hill that I live on (it barely makes it up), but its by far the simplest and easy to setup, and requires little to no maintenance. The geared hub motor bike, will make it up the hill, but slowly. The best one, kind of depends on what you need or want.
When you say wear and maintenance, are you just referring to the chain and sprockets, or does the motor require more maintenance. I'm planning on building a mid drive bike. I don't want to create a bunch of issues.
@@LukeAMcDowell As far as I know, there isnt any real maintenance on these motors, but the rest of the bike takes a beating a lot harder than human only powered bikes typically see.
The problem with the bafang 750watt is it might be 500watt.. I have a direct drive and 750watt non bafang geared motor and it had tons more instant torque than the non geared. Bafang screwed tons of people the only way to know if yours is a real 750watt is to open it up.
I agree. The prices for these kits are insane! Massive rip off. You're better off getting a qs90 motor and building your own mount. They're not much bigger and you can put 10kw through those motors before saturation. These bafang, bosch types of motors are terrible value for what you get. If you climb a big enough hill, your expensive motor is going to burn out. For the same money you can get brushless motors capable of producing more torque than supercars.
For what it's worth the Cyc photon is a bbs02 competitor not the bbshd, rumor is though that Cyc has a "Proton" in the works and plans to announce it late this year which will compete with the bbshd though at a claimed 3500w peak which sounds really interesting. I still think personally Mid-drive are where it's at for raw power as the gears means you get the huge torque and high top speed. I personally run a bbshd with a aftermarket Luna ludi v2 controller to push almost 4000w at 52v (although I plan to go 72v for 5kw in the future) and to match my low end torque with also the same top speed with a big hub I would have to run almost 3 times the power. Which means more expensive parts, a bigger battery capable of 150 amps, a overall larger heavier setup etc. And I also find the wear on the drive train a little overblown, now if you want 0 maintenance that's fine go hub, but I run a strong all steel 8 speed drive-train (important to go all steel and less gears for stronger parts) which results with me getting 2k-2.5k miles before replacements are needed. And even then it's a $30 cassette and a $13 chain, imo its a downside but given the perks well worth it!
Yea this dude loves his hubby haha. Replacing a cassette every 2000 mi isn't "fairly often" to me but whatever floats your boat. I mean I change my oil in my truck every 3000.
My main concern with upgrading my motor is the battery. I don't feel comfortable with unit pack power since there have been many fires in NYC with people using thoes batteries. Would love a video breaking down batteries and which is the safest option when doing upgrades/ conversions
Don't put two batteries with BMSs in parallel to increase range. Run them one at a time. Don't be like Louis. Also, use the appropriate charger. Those courier douchebags weren't smart enough to do that.
Hailong, CAO MM batteries art an art. Those are the two battery companies I use. Have been building e-bike with them for over 5 years and never have had one fire. Even had one fellow about saw his brick in half with the rear tire (bad battery placement) but the BMS shut it down one cell smoked but no fire.
@@LS-zr8py I have used conversion kits by Ebikeling to do front wheel drive systems because it is planetary geared which has a gear paw like your free wheel sprocket. This allow you to coast and have little to no resistance from the electric motor, a plus when you are pedaling your bike manually you don't have as much weigh. Direct drives through they have no moving parts you feel the magnet pulling if you are just pedaling without the motor. better for rear wheel conversions if you want more than 750 watt output. And direct drives are heavy so using them on front wheel drive systems makes handling the bike difficult now I have used them in cheap three wheel bike builds but generally don't like them on my bicycles front wheel. Front wheel drive pros and cons. Front wheel drives actually make your bike an AWD with PAS when you use the pedal assist system your front wheel will be driving along with your pedaling the rear wheel. The front wheel conversion kits are easy to install for the most part especially compared to installing the rear wheel systems which need to have a geared bike frames to fit, average rear drop out needed for rear wheel conversions is between 135mm to 145mm. and you replace the free wheel , adjust brakes and gears after install. Now the Cons of front wheel drive , weight. all your motor weight is forward so hang your battery aft of it. I use them on three wheel bikes all the time but have to replace the factory forks for something that can handle holding the wheel in the drop out after all front fork are not designed drive so many will fail if you don't use torque arms on both nuts. I found if you have a suspension fork they will handle the load well, so there is something to look for in a donor bike . don't use your front wheel drive system for climbing steep, loose trails off road without using you PAS. the weigh shifts back and you loose traction if you just use throttle. A few good electric bike conversion kits are AW electric bike conversion kits wheel sizes 20'' to 26' - VoilaMart conversion kits 20'' to 29'' wheels. these first two are primarily direct drive systems. Ebikeling makes both planetary geared and direct drive systems. This is the company I use when building most front wheel systems. Light, powerful and efficient plus they are water proof and very easy to install and wire. Long winded but hope this helps. One more plus of doing a conversion is if ever you grow tired of the bike it is on you simply remove it and install it to another donor frame.
How is the balancing between the back to front on the fat tire ebike? How much can you load extra weight in back ( if you have) before the front lift up a bit? Balancing of bikes of 20mph plus speeds is Extremely important and notice mostly overlooked. Some makers are noticing this and just putting this in thought of latest fat tire models. We can't overlook this issue with the fat tire e bikes of the higher 750 and up watt motors. Balancing is part of the practical side in example, fast speeds need solid base weight , too fast will lift front wheel off a bit if bike a bit too light but nobody see this as fact but physics shows this.
Bought A CYC motor about a month ago😬 Couldn't tell you how it runs because I still haven't got it yet 😖And their customer service is very slow🤦♂️ But hopefully I'll get it this year..?🥴
@@JohnBhoy88 Nope motor turns makes a noise that's about it🤷♂️ still little help from the company 6 months now haven't road it once 🤦♂️Quite frankly they act like they don't care Pretty much telling me to unplug and plug things back in which does nothing.!! Hey has a throttle error code?? but I've sent that to them twice and nothing's being done But repeating the same things over and over.!! Very disappointed with this company.!!!😖
As far as reliability goes, nothing can even come close to the BBSHD. I'm honestly not too familiar with hub motor reliability, but I know that the BBSHD will last at least 5 years, then can be updated and refreshed for cheap since Bafang makes ALL the parts available for repair, and they're cheap. So far, CYC has been shown to be fairly unreliable, and very difficult, if not impossible, to repair by the end user- at least not to the degree of the BBSHD. After buying the bafang mid drive and an HV kit (or hot rodded controller of your choice), it's so much better value than anything CYC or any other manufacturer so far has done.
@@birdness there's almost no maintenance involved with the BBSHD. Regrease every few thousand miles and that's about it. What hub motor has less maintenance than that and has all its parts available for replacement? (not trying to be standoffish. I just know very little about hub motors)
@@georgeforeman89 Grin Tech motors are far more reliable than anything Bafang puts. They're more expensive than Bafang but they will last at least twice as long. Grin has only been around for 15 years, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a Grin All-Axle motor last 20 years.
@@sammiller6631 lol I don't think you have any experience with these things. Bafang motors are well known for their reliability. The parts are pretty inexpensive and easy to find and very easy to repair. Not to say grin products aren't good, but to say that bafang motors are less reliable is objectively false.
@@georgeforeman89 Mid-drives are more complex. "[Bafang] parts are pretty inexpensive and easy to find and very easy to repair." is not the same as being reliable. Where's your data to back up your "objective" claim? Cheaper burns up faster. Are you saying no one has ever burned up a Bafang? Or two or three?
GREAT VIDIO . I HAVE A POLARNA M4 FAT TIRE 20 EBIKE IN MY SHORTS VIDEO. HERE THE THING I WANT TO GO A LOT FASTER. I ALREADY HAVE A EXTRA 72V BATTERY. I KNOW I COULD BY A HOLE NEW MOTOR AND CONTROLLER KIT BUT THEN I HAVE TO GET RID OF THE ONE THE BIKE CAME WITH. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO WITH MY EXTRA 72V BATTERY WITH OUT GETTING RID OF THE MOTOR IT CAME WITH. LIKE MAYBE ADD A MID DRIVE OR FRONT WHEEL KIT THAT WORKS WITH A 72V BATTERY?
I thought about playing with something like that. Bafang bbs02b mid drive + a cheap front and cheap rear hub all overvolted and fed into a triple 72v controller. Priced it up and did all the planning. After a series of calculations I decided not worth it. The hubs will pick up over the mid drive 9 times out of 10, will be very rare to usethe mid motor vut it will still drain power.
I'm personally running a rad runner plus with a 35a controller (pushing a max 1800w through the stock rad motor)and it's running great! (Not to self promote but if anyone is interested if got some videos on my channel) Love that bike with my whole heart. But things will move at home for the loner child cause I'm getting a surron light bee x in two weeks ✨
Yes, you can run a bigger controller on a Radpower but since the coils are undersized their motors produce less power than normal Bafang models and reach saturation limit sooner. Their motors have a soft and smooth power delivery that many people like but a Radpower is a poor choice for performance upgrades without at least swapping hub coils.
Yeah, your Sur Ron is a whole different performance league than our little hub motor bikes. I ride gas dirt bikes, and the Sur Ron looks like it would be a ton of fun in the woods. It is just half the weight of my gas bikes and probably feels real nimble. The optional pedal kit for it is kinda silly, though I think. Possible uses seem unlikely. I don't think that the pedals would help convince a cop that it is a 750w ebike. Using pedals to help it up hills or pedal back with a dead battery probably only works if your name is The Flash. I hope you have a blast with that new bike.
Thanks man for sharing your honest knowledge & experience, is it required to get a motorbike licence for those 1000W and 2000W eBikes? X-D (very expensive in Germany) imho front-or-back-wheel-drive-motors without gear are probably the most reliable option :D (less parts that can break) PLEASE BE CAREFUL YOU ARE GOING VERY FAST CLOSE TO SHOPS. IF SOMEONE STEPS OUT THE SHOP HE-SHE GONNA BE RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU. CAN YOU STILL BREAK AT 25mph = 40km/h?
I thought the same thing, seems most of these guys try to show how fast they can go, to their serious detriment if some cager makes a mistake. I read somewhere, that bicycles, where accidents allow for lawsuits, the biker never wins, but motorcycles usually do win when cager is at fault. Watch out.
That's the kind of riding that gets us all in trouble and starts the road to E-bike bans. I don't know what your towns laws are, but in mine, bikes are not allowed on sidewalks, electric or not.
I'd pass on the Photon . I owned one, and had problems with it. CYCs email support is slow, and the motor being glued shut is non user serviceable which means you're sending it in to Japan for any kind of maintenance or service. I'm glad I sold mine.
Thanks for this. I have an old Honda Super Cub I am thinking of converting. Here in Canada we are limited to 500w in order to keep it designated as a "bicycle". Thinking of a 48v500w and was originally going to go with a mid-motor but that might prove difficult to mount. But finding a hub motor that fits a Honda Super Cub wheel size (17" with a "full width hub" approx.160mm) is tricky!
Are we all tired of being controlled even control bike can't use water that's on my property I'm I Massachusetts didn't we leave england for freedom oh we but as soon as we got he it was taken away
@@scootersonlyrepair6773 don't beat around the bush, tell us how you really feel! Chill dude. If I did that, I would have to register it, and maintain a motorcycle license... my way I don't have to do any of that. Tough decision... :)
I think I’m going to take a mega moto 80 mini gas bike frame and the emx qs90 kit from electro and co, with a 72v 40ah battery from aegis battery, and it should do ~40 mph and around 80 miles a charge while only costing $2000 and having a large upgrade path, due to the mega moto 80 frame.
recently i picked up one of crystalytes high speed offerings its a HS4065 rd this thing does 65 kms per hour on 36 volt with its winding thats 21.6 kms per 12 volts so using 82 volts calculates to over 150kms per hour or 90to 93 mph which is 8kilos lighter than qs273 that tops out at 100mph and is significanlt smaller over all amd is nearly 1/3 the price of qs273 .its the faster version of the motor thats on the HPC revolution x ebike
Thank you. As a owner of mid drive motor from Bafang I can vouch that take a tool on your gear wheels as you said because they were not design to resist to 1500w mid drive motor. Also the Bafang mid drive has a down side, and that is because the manufacturer uses cheap glue to seal the motor air tight so you will get a 00 error from a sensor inside the motor and you will have to get a new controller.
i feel like this video was just advertising for the phaserunner lols like you were talking about how geared motors work and then you said get the phaserunner overvolt battery done. problem is phaserunner is how much also shipping for me is literally otherside of the world hard pass. hub motors are just the simplest to understand for ppl new and still learning , they wana research what to buy and they read online if u wana diy conversion you gotta be at least a bit handy. so they think hub motor if something goes bad can just take the wheel off swap a new one thats it where as if you were new and your trying to think how a mid drive works oh yeah somewhere in the middle at the bottom there need more than just a hex wrench fuckit stick with hub. lols i reckon best value for money kits are chain drive kits personally , you get barely any power loss and you can pickup a complete kit thats with brackets throttle controller (no battery though) for under $ 400 AUD thats shit all
Every kit Ive seen on ebay, leaves the battery out, typical chine near fraud on products sold, their ads imply batts, but dont contain them in the kit afaik.
Everyone has there own opinion on bikes mine use either 2000wat rear hub motor 45amp controller 52v 20amp battery on the stand 52mph 43mph on road plenty power your talking 30mph in 4seconds. I have fat tyre snow bike from amazon 4in 20ins wheel it came as 750wat motor rubbish put 1500 wat 40amp conntroll er 52v 20amp battery on stand speed 49mph on road 38mph that's what I call a ebike my wing mirrors on the forks connection to the rubber frame protector it's all filled in with upvc then carbon fibre look seat upgrade height with pvsc all lights. That's what I call a ebike
@@goinawol9447 I'll probably get one of those 3kw hub motors on Amazon after my original Lectric motor needs to be replaced. These parts are expensive and I'm not throwing away a perfecting working motor just so I can go a little faster.
Caralho suspenção a gás nossa que nave já tive uma meu amigo o que era quebramos na fila do pão só de 100 km/h nem mexe depois que trocaram pulava igual cavalo bravo
I have a 20 in 1.75 in front tire that I'd like to replace with a hub motor. I have a twelve-year-old giant XL revive 18-speed.. can't seem to find a good conversion kit cheaper than a new cheaper e-bike
You get more performance for the price with a kit. If you just want an ebike and performanceper dollar isn'tan issue, then yeah, just get whatever you like.
@Interglacial Optimist I got a kit from Alibaba that was around 300-400 delivered. Waterproof connections. They make the wheel any common size so I think yeah 20" no problem. My kit was a 24" for my daughter's bike. Kini Suns at Saili motor is the rep and company.
@Interglacial Optimist 500 no problem. 750 is where some are fine and other forks snap. If you want 750 just get a rear setup. It's not much more difficult you don't have the worry about snapping the dropouts
CYC has horrible customer service. Purchased the photon which turned out to be defective. After 6 months of working with CYC, I returned it and went with Bafang.
Are These legal in the U.S.? What you are talking about looks more like a motor bike or moped, can you drive this on roads without licence and insurance?
So if I buy a 2k watt kit, and it's 72 volt compatible, can I make it a 52volt?? I can't seem to find a 52volt 2k watt, only 72volt, and my aim is to go about 40 lmph, but I want to maximize my range, instead of going like 55 60. Maybe 1500watt dual motor 52 volt??? What do you think
tannus stopped approx 0 flats on my ebike. between the weight if the bike, hub motor, and tire pressure, the foam compressed a lot. the softness of the foam also increased my tire's contact patch which led to increased tire wear, and a drop in range/top speed. i do not reccomend them at all
Grin cycle analysis.. I was going to buy this. But I couldn't justify the purchase unless I was running 2 motors. Price is to high wish they had a basic, cheaper setup..
0:38 your not a eE-Bike rider, that is a electric scooter your driving on, you are not peddeling that makes it a scooter.. a E-Scooter. so you are not revieing any E-Bikes, biut E-Scooters.
I got the rear 20x4" conversion kit with a 48V Sabvaoton sine-wave dual-mode 45A controller, a super quiet 1500W brushless direct-drive hub motor, and a SW900 display off of ebay for $365 shipped and I luv it. I'm 6'5/250lb and it'll hit a little over 38mph with me, and 42mph with my 6'2/195lb brother on it! I've got two parallel connected 48V 10.4Ah batteries that get me around 33 miles on low-mid level driving (Setting 3/5) and about 21 miles on high-level driving (Setting 5/5).
Nice! what kind of bike was it? Was the kit the motor only and you had to lace up spokes or included wheel too?
Big fan of Tannus Armour. Only reason I bought it was for a softer ride. The flat preventative is nice too,but the bike rides so much softer with it.
Love to hear it! Enjoy the ride.
You can get your tires filled with soft springy rubber at the off road or heavy/farm tire shops. Then they won't go flat. Last I checked it was about twice the price on an inner tube and tire
😮Sounds heavy
we cut a 1 inch thick peice of those pool noodles made of foam and put between the tire and tube .and in the rare event of a bad flat it also works as a run flat great solution for a few bucks
Redneck Genius
"Flat-Out" tube-sealer is better/cheaper as well. Have it in both tires... (thorns, glass, nails, broken auto-parts... doesn't even matter... tube seals within a few seconds.
I stumbled upon your channel quite recently. Videos like this is why I subscribed.
I get nail flats even on my ebike with massive dirt bike tires. I would love a Tannus insert for a 21" motorcycle tire. maybe even a plastic ribbon to prevent some punctures too.
I use old innertubes. Just cut valve stem off and insert them in.
And tape the hell out of your rims. No flat protection on the outside of it will protect against a loose spoke head. not even slime will stop those leaks.
To me, the easiest and best way to increase speed and power is to add a front hub direct drive motor to your existing setup. Once you experience a dual wheel drive bike you will never want to go back to a rear only setup. You will, however have to use two batteries and two separate controllers, and the bike will be a lot heavier, but the extra power makes up for it. Climbing the steepest of hills is no longer a struggle.Be sure to use torque arms on the front fork. The front hub kits are pretty affordable too. I got mine for less than $250. The extra battery will cost you though.
Which front hub did you get? (link pls)
Does it matter if it the rear and front hub aren't the same?
@@lordgrape5015 No, it does not matter. I have a 750 watt gear driven rear wheel, and a 1000 watt direct drive in the front. In fact, I use two different voltage batteries. I use a 52v rear, and 60v front. You just have to be careful with using the front wheel, as it is so powerful. But the thing is a beast. Top speed is around 38 mph.
So im actually thinking of doing this with my older Giant E-bike. I want to add a fwd hub, do you think i could run a wire coming from the existing battery to the Hub's controller?
@@kutaren Maybe it's possible, but I think you'd be better off using two separate batteries and two controllers. One battery would have to be HUGE to handle the current draw. And you would need extra thick cables to supply power, otherwise it will burn up.
An alternative to trannus for the price is schwalbe marathon. They have emtb variants. Only reason I would use tannus over schwalbe marathons is if there is no size that fits my rims
There are no geared hub motors currently on the market that are designed to take more than 1kw burst, 750w nominal... at 48v. Pumping 60v into one is fun, but you're going to tear up and be replacing those nylon gear MUCH sooner than probably think, especially depending on how quick you squeeze the throttle. Sure you can replace the nylon gears with metal ones, but stripping the central axle gear, which isn't user replaceable, and overheating are the next issues.
I suspected such.
Truth. My g062 hub motor 1000w nominal 1500-2000w peak goes through nylon gears very quickly.
I have been messing with some ebikes, and Ive found that the best performance is the mid drive, but it comes with the cost of wear and maintenance, so you have to be willing to work on your bike a lot. The 750 watt hub motor works really well everywhere fine except the big hill that I live on (it barely makes it up), but its by far the simplest and easy to setup, and requires little to no maintenance. The geared hub motor bike, will make it up the hill, but slowly. The best one, kind of depends on what you need or want.
When you say wear and maintenance, are you just referring to the chain and sprockets, or does the motor require more maintenance. I'm planning on building a mid drive bike. I don't want to create a bunch of issues.
@@LukeAMcDowell As far as I know, there isnt any real maintenance on these motors, but the rest of the bike takes a beating a lot harder than human only powered bikes typically see.
I have a 750 bfang mid dr and 750 rear hub 1 pulls and one pushes almost 9000 miles 100% trouble free between the 2
You are underrated bro. Love your vids.
The problem with the bafang 750watt is it might be 500watt.. I have a direct drive and 750watt non bafang geared motor and it had tons more instant torque than the non geared. Bafang screwed tons of people the only way to know if yours is a real 750watt is to open it up.
Agreed.
You can get over 2kw from the Bafang G60 fat geared motor you just need decent battery and controller
I agree. The prices for these kits are insane! Massive rip off. You're better off getting a qs90 motor and building your own mount. They're not much bigger and you can put 10kw through those motors before saturation. These bafang, bosch types of motors are terrible value for what you get. If you climb a big enough hill, your expensive motor is going to burn out. For the same money you can get brushless motors capable of producing more torque than supercars.
If you have a sluggish hub motor consider a shunt mod on your controller, it really woke up my 1000W direct drive setup.
@@AdamsHadEnough Yeah I did was cool lol!! It did burn out the controller though. Still was fun mod.
For what it's worth the Cyc photon is a bbs02 competitor not the bbshd, rumor is though that Cyc has a "Proton" in the works and plans to announce it late this year which will compete with the bbshd though at a claimed 3500w peak which sounds really interesting. I still think personally Mid-drive are where it's at for raw power as the gears means you get the huge torque and high top speed. I personally run a bbshd with a aftermarket Luna ludi v2 controller to push almost 4000w at 52v (although I plan to go 72v for 5kw in the future) and to match my low end torque with also the same top speed with a big hub I would have to run almost 3 times the power. Which means more expensive parts, a bigger battery capable of 150 amps, a overall larger heavier setup etc. And I also find the wear on the drive train a little overblown, now if you want 0 maintenance that's fine go hub, but I run a strong all steel 8 speed drive-train (important to go all steel and less gears for stronger parts) which results with me getting 2k-2.5k miles before replacements are needed. And even then it's a $30 cassette and a $13 chain, imo its a downside but given the perks well worth it!
Yea this dude loves his hubby haha. Replacing a cassette every 2000 mi isn't "fairly often" to me but whatever floats your boat. I mean I change my oil in my truck every 3000.
@@baitball4665 Haha yeah exactly, I did oil changes on my supermoto motorcycle every 600 miles, I'm completely ok with 2k
I have the ebikeling 1200watt 26inch front hub motor and it’s awesome very good quality
I have no problems with this bike. A great bike!
My main concern with upgrading my motor is the battery. I don't feel comfortable with unit pack power since there have been many fires in NYC with people using thoes batteries. Would love a video breaking down batteries and which is the safest option when doing upgrades/ conversions
Don't put two batteries with BMSs in parallel to increase range. Run them one at a time. Don't be like Louis. Also, use the appropriate charger. Those courier douchebags weren't smart enough to do that.
Hailong, CAO MM batteries art an art. Those are the two battery companies I use. Have been building e-bike with them for over 5 years and never have had one fire. Even had one fellow about saw his brick in half with the rear tire (bad battery placement) but the BMS shut it down one cell smoked but no fire.
What about front wheel drive conversion? 😊
@@LS-zr8py I have used conversion kits by Ebikeling to do front wheel drive systems because it is planetary geared which has a gear paw like your free wheel sprocket. This allow you to coast and have little to no resistance from the electric motor, a plus when you are pedaling your bike manually you don't have as much weigh. Direct drives through they have no moving parts you feel the magnet pulling if you are just pedaling without the motor. better for rear wheel conversions if you want more than 750 watt output. And direct drives are heavy so using them on front wheel drive systems makes handling the bike difficult now I have used them in cheap three wheel bike builds but generally don't like them on my bicycles front wheel.
Front wheel drive pros and cons. Front wheel drives actually make your bike an AWD with PAS when you use the pedal assist system your front wheel will be driving along with your pedaling the rear wheel. The front wheel conversion kits are easy to install for the most part especially compared to installing the rear wheel systems which need to have a geared bike frames to fit, average rear drop out needed for rear wheel conversions is between 135mm to 145mm. and you replace the free wheel , adjust brakes and gears after install. Now the Cons of front wheel drive , weight. all your motor weight is forward so hang your battery aft of it. I use them on three wheel bikes all the time but have to replace the factory forks for something that can handle holding the wheel in the drop out after all front fork are not designed drive so many will fail if you don't use torque arms on both nuts. I found if you have a suspension fork they will handle the load well, so there is something to look for in a donor bike . don't use your front wheel drive system for climbing steep, loose trails off road without using you PAS. the weigh shifts back and you loose traction if you just use throttle. A few good electric bike conversion kits are AW electric bike conversion kits wheel sizes 20'' to 26' - VoilaMart conversion kits 20'' to 29'' wheels. these first two are primarily direct drive systems. Ebikeling makes both planetary geared and direct drive systems. This is the company I use when building most front wheel systems. Light, powerful and efficient plus they are water proof and very easy to install and wire.
Long winded but hope this helps. One more plus of doing a conversion is if ever you grow tired of the bike it is on you simply remove it and install it to another donor frame.
@@dalvenable331 thanks, alot of point i don't think about. I really appreciate the info
How is the balancing between the back to front on the fat tire ebike? How much can you load extra weight in back ( if you have) before the front lift up a bit? Balancing of bikes of 20mph plus speeds is Extremely important and notice mostly overlooked. Some makers are noticing this and just putting this in thought of latest fat tire models. We can't overlook this issue with the fat tire e bikes of the higher 750 and up watt motors. Balancing is part of the practical side in example, fast speeds need solid base weight , too fast will lift front wheel off a bit if bike a bit too light but nobody see this as fact but physics shows this.
Bought A CYC motor about a month ago😬 Couldn't tell you how it runs because I still haven't got it yet 😖And their customer service is very slow🤦♂️ But hopefully I'll get it this year..?🥴
Update ;,,,still waiting😖
Finally got the kit 5 and a 1/2 months later🎁🥳
@@monkeyhaters9258how is the kit? Is it good?
@@JohnBhoy88 Nope motor turns makes a noise that's about it🤷♂️ still little help from the company 6 months now haven't road it once 🤦♂️Quite frankly they act like they don't care
Pretty much telling me to unplug and plug things back in which does nothing.!! Hey has a throttle error code?? but I've sent that to them twice and nothing's being done But repeating the same things over and over.!! Very disappointed with this company.!!!😖
@@monkeyhaters9258if you can, return it and get the Bafang BBSHD and the High Voltage kit. You won't be disappointed
The tannus tire inserts are definitely worth it i got them today and they're tough even by my standards
I've bult like 7 ebikes now and I prefer the hub motor, the less maintenance the better, I just wanna get on and go.
Nice video. Thanks for the perspectives.
what battery did you use on you first ebike conversion with the NBpower?
What is a good kit for a 20' fat tire?
I was hoping for differences, advantages, and disadvantages of each. This video left me confused and no better off than I was in the first place.
That ad for the Tannus armor isn't bullshit.
As far as reliability goes, nothing can even come close to the BBSHD. I'm honestly not too familiar with hub motor reliability, but I know that the BBSHD will last at least 5 years, then can be updated and refreshed for cheap since Bafang makes ALL the parts available for repair, and they're cheap. So far, CYC has been shown to be fairly unreliable, and very difficult, if not impossible, to repair by the end user- at least not to the degree of the BBSHD. After buying the bafang mid drive and an HV kit (or hot rodded controller of your choice), it's so much better value than anything CYC or any other manufacturer so far has done.
Hub motors will generally be less maintenance than a mid-drive motor. So yes, there are things that come close and even surpass what you're saying.
@@birdness there's almost no maintenance involved with the BBSHD. Regrease every few thousand miles and that's about it. What hub motor has less maintenance than that and has all its parts available for replacement? (not trying to be standoffish. I just know very little about hub motors)
@@georgeforeman89 Grin Tech motors are far more reliable than anything Bafang puts. They're more expensive than Bafang but they will last at least twice as long. Grin has only been around for 15 years, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a Grin All-Axle motor last 20 years.
@@sammiller6631 lol I don't think you have any experience with these things. Bafang motors are well known for their reliability. The parts are pretty inexpensive and easy to find and very easy to repair. Not to say grin products aren't good, but to say that bafang motors are less reliable is objectively false.
@@georgeforeman89 Mid-drives are more complex. "[Bafang] parts are pretty inexpensive and easy to find and very easy to repair." is not the same as being reliable. Where's your data to back up your "objective" claim? Cheaper burns up faster. Are you saying no one has ever burned up a Bafang? Or two or three?
I was curious about the Top speed results going on ground level and uphill?
GREAT VIDIO . I HAVE A POLARNA M4 FAT TIRE 20 EBIKE IN MY SHORTS VIDEO. HERE THE THING I WANT TO GO A LOT FASTER. I ALREADY HAVE A EXTRA 72V BATTERY. I KNOW I COULD BY A HOLE NEW MOTOR AND CONTROLLER KIT BUT THEN I HAVE TO GET RID OF THE ONE THE BIKE CAME WITH. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO WITH MY EXTRA 72V BATTERY WITH OUT GETTING RID OF THE MOTOR IT CAME WITH. LIKE MAYBE ADD A MID DRIVE OR FRONT WHEEL KIT THAT WORKS WITH A 72V BATTERY?
I'm still waiting on, that triple drive setup! 😁
I thought about playing with something like that. Bafang bbs02b mid drive + a cheap front and cheap rear hub all overvolted and fed into a triple 72v controller. Priced it up and did all the planning. After a series of calculations I decided not worth it. The hubs will pick up over the mid drive 9 times out of 10, will be very rare to usethe mid motor vut it will still drain power.
I'm personally running a rad runner plus with a 35a controller (pushing a max 1800w through the stock rad motor)and it's running great!
(Not to self promote but if anyone is interested if got some videos on my channel)
Love that bike with my whole heart.
But things will move at home for the loner child cause I'm getting a surron light bee x in two weeks ✨
Yes, you can run a bigger controller on a Radpower but since the coils are undersized their motors produce less power than normal Bafang models and reach saturation limit sooner. Their motors have a soft and smooth power delivery that many people like but a Radpower is a poor choice for performance upgrades without at least swapping hub coils.
@@jimmyjames8736 thanks for the info!! I can definitely tell. Since I have my SurRon the rad feel so underwhelming lmao
Yeah, your Sur Ron is a whole different performance league than our little hub motor bikes. I ride gas dirt bikes, and the Sur Ron looks like it would be a ton of fun in the woods. It is just half the weight of my gas bikes and probably feels real nimble. The optional pedal kit for it is kinda silly, though I think. Possible uses seem unlikely. I don't think that the pedals would help convince a cop that it is a 750w ebike. Using pedals to help it up hills or pedal back with a dead battery probably only works if your name is The Flash. I hope you have a blast with that new bike.
In 2024, still found this video informative. Subbed!
The other option is just to use your legs and get some exercise and it is also greener.
Thanks man for sharing your honest knowledge & experience, is it required to get a motorbike licence for those 1000W and 2000W eBikes? X-D (very expensive in Germany) imho front-or-back-wheel-drive-motors without gear are probably the most reliable option :D (less parts that can break) PLEASE BE CAREFUL YOU ARE GOING VERY FAST CLOSE TO SHOPS. IF SOMEONE STEPS OUT THE SHOP HE-SHE GONNA BE RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU. CAN YOU STILL BREAK AT 25mph = 40km/h?
Very good point, I was trying hard not to yell at my phone when he was on the sidewalk. Very irresponsible
I thought the same thing, seems most of these guys try to show how fast they can go, to their serious detriment if some cager makes a mistake. I read somewhere, that bicycles, where accidents allow for lawsuits, the biker never wins, but motorcycles usually do win when cager is at fault. Watch out.
That's the kind of riding that gets us all in trouble and starts the road to E-bike bans. I don't know what your towns laws are, but in mine, bikes are not allowed on sidewalks, electric or not.
Grin Tech Phaserunner V6 is what you need.
Here’s a 20KW motor for $267. I believe it is the stock motor on the Onyx RCR.
I'd pass on the Photon . I owned one, and had problems with it. CYCs email support is slow, and the motor being glued shut is non user serviceable which means you're sending it in to Japan for any kind of maintenance or service. I'm glad I sold mine.
Thanks for this. I have an old Honda Super Cub I am thinking of converting. Here in Canada we are limited to 500w in order to keep it designated as a "bicycle". Thinking of a 48v500w and was originally going to go with a mid-motor but that might prove difficult to mount. But finding a hub motor that fits a Honda Super Cub wheel size (17" with a "full width hub" approx.160mm) is tricky!
Are we all tired of being controlled even control bike can't use water that's on my property I'm I Massachusetts didn't we leave england for freedom oh we but as soon as we got he it was taken away
dont follow unjust laws
What a waste of a honda. It's already a motorcycle. Keep it registered and get a better motor. 500w would be an embarrassment to that bike
@@scootersonlyrepair6773 don't beat around the bush, tell us how you really feel! Chill dude. If I did that, I would have to register it, and maintain a motorcycle license... my way I don't have to do any of that. Tough decision... :)
Video of how you asemble the 62 volt batt with the geared hub
I think I’m going to take a mega moto 80 mini gas bike frame and the emx qs90 kit from electro and co, with a 72v 40ah battery from aegis battery, and it should do ~40 mph and around 80 miles a charge while only costing $2000 and having a large upgrade path, due to the mega moto 80 frame.
Will definitely go faster than 40mph 🥲
@@NPLVentures yeah but the qs90 is I think 1000w nominal and 5000w peak so I think it will go around 40
How did you attach the battery on the top part of the frame like that?
recently i picked up one of crystalytes high speed offerings its a HS4065 rd this thing does 65 kms per hour on 36 volt with its winding thats 21.6 kms per 12 volts so using 82 volts calculates to over 150kms per hour or 90to 93 mph which is 8kilos lighter than qs273 that tops out at 100mph and is significanlt smaller over all amd is nearly 1/3 the price of qs273 .its the faster version of the motor thats on the HPC revolution x ebike
I think mxus does a 1000w geared hub but it's a little loud.
the Hub drives are not available now? what's the next best thing?
I know you had the crooked for sale did you sell it?
Excellent timing for me!
How often do you peddle your ebike? Thinking about getting either an ebike or an e-scooter
E bike crosses holes better.. I'm about to switch from a scooter
Thank you. As a owner of mid drive motor from Bafang I can vouch that take a tool on your gear wheels as you said because they were not design to resist to 1500w mid drive motor. Also the Bafang mid drive has a down side, and that is because the manufacturer uses cheap glue to seal the motor air tight so you will get a 00 error from a sensor inside the motor and you will have to get a new controller.
Bafang uses cheap everything.
Thank you! Terrific vid!
i feel like this video was just advertising for the phaserunner lols like you were talking about how geared motors work and then you said get the phaserunner overvolt battery done. problem is phaserunner is how much also shipping for me is literally otherside of the world hard pass. hub motors are just the simplest to understand for ppl new and still learning , they wana research what to buy and they read online if u wana diy conversion you gotta be at least a bit handy. so they think hub motor if something goes bad can just take the wheel off swap a new one thats it where as if you were new and your trying to think how a mid drive works oh yeah somewhere in the middle at the bottom there need more than just a hex wrench fuckit stick with hub. lols i reckon best value for money kits are chain drive kits personally , you get barely any power loss and you can pickup a complete kit thats with brackets throttle controller (no battery though) for under $ 400 AUD thats shit all
You missed the tongsheng tsdz2 torque sensing mid drive motor, poor research.
Do you know if that phase runner controller will work with the MTB direct drive instead of having that big controller box ?
Sure it will do. With max phase amps of 96 amps. Phaserunner works best in 500-1500Watts range. FOC even sensorless!
If I buy the hub motor kit I still need a battery correct?
Every kit Ive seen on ebay, leaves the battery out, typical chine near fraud on products sold, their ads imply batts, but dont contain them in the kit afaik.
Everyone has there own opinion on bikes mine use either 2000wat rear hub motor 45amp controller 52v 20amp battery on the stand 52mph 43mph on road plenty power your talking 30mph in 4seconds. I have fat tyre snow bike from amazon 4in 20ins wheel it came as 750wat motor rubbish put 1500 wat 40amp conntroll er 52v 20amp battery on stand speed 49mph on road 38mph that's what I call a ebike my wing mirrors on the forks connection to the rubber frame protector it's all filled in with upvc then carbon fibre look seat upgrade height with pvsc all lights. That's what I call a ebike
I just want to go 40mph on my Lectric XP 3.0
Can go 40mph on as little as a 750w motor. Overvolt it. Increases power. Make sure you research yourself though.
@@goinawol9447 I'll probably get one of those 3kw hub motors on Amazon after my original Lectric motor needs to be replaced. These parts are expensive and I'm not throwing away a perfecting working motor just so I can go a little faster.
как называется твоё сиденье? Где купил смденье?
As far as mid-drive motors I pick CYC over Bafang
I just wanna go 230+/-. Haaha. 😂
Wish you would have mentioned how heavy a large direct drive motor is that can handle multiple kilowatts of power.
2000w hub motor around 7kg
@@ianmangham4570 Grin Tech All Axle Motor is only 4kg and it can handle 2000w using Statorade injection.
direct drive ftw
QUESTION: how easy are they to pedal if you lose power, all the motors?
if you dont reduce your tube size then its no way follow the direction on tube and getting one more smaller is even better
Caralho suspenção a gás nossa que nave já tive uma meu amigo o que era quebramos na fila do pão só de 100 km/h nem mexe depois que trocaram pulava igual cavalo bravo
I have a 20 in 1.75 in front tire that I'd like to replace with a hub motor. I have a twelve-year-old giant XL revive 18-speed.. can't seem to find a good conversion kit cheaper than a new cheaper e-bike
You get more performance for the price with a kit. If you just want an ebike and performanceper dollar isn'tan issue, then yeah, just get whatever you like.
@@paulmryglod4802 are there 20 in front wheel hub motor kits that are affordable?
@Interglacial Optimist I got a kit from Alibaba that was around 300-400 delivered. Waterproof connections. They make the wheel any common size so I think yeah 20" no problem. My kit was a 24" for my daughter's bike. Kini Suns at Saili motor is the rep and company.
@@paulmryglod4802 is there any maximum to the size motor like 750w... I've heard that the bike isn't built for the torque on the front frame..
@Interglacial Optimist 500 no problem. 750 is where some are fine and other forks snap. If you want 750 just get a rear setup. It's not much more difficult you don't have the worry about snapping the dropouts
CYC has horrible customer service. Purchased the photon which turned out to be defective. After 6 months of working with CYC, I returned it and went with Bafang.
Are These legal in the U.S.?
What you are talking about looks more like a motor bike or moped, can you drive this on roads without licence and insurance?
Tannus is good, but expensive. I'd rather just use proper motorcycle tyres with sealant.
comment about the tannus inserts i have them and they help but they shrink under tire pressure i got a flat with a screw with tannus
So if I buy a 2k watt kit, and it's 72 volt compatible, can I make it a 52volt?? I can't seem to find a 52volt 2k watt, only 72volt, and my aim is to go about 40 lmph, but I want to maximize my range, instead of going like 55 60. Maybe 1500watt dual motor 52 volt??? What do you think
what kinda battery should i use with the Nb power 2000 watt 72 volt?
2:30 the bike looks janky not because of the controller, but because of the triangle battery slapped on the upper tube and long wires everywhere
tannus stopped approx 0 flats on my ebike. between the weight if the bike, hub motor, and tire pressure, the foam compressed a lot. the softness of the foam also increased my tire's contact patch which led to increased tire wear, and a drop in range/top speed. i do not reccomend them at all
You don't know how many flats it stopped. The only ones you know about are the ones they didn't stop
Geared hubs are alot lighter than direct drive hubs.
Grin Tech's All Axle direct drive is only 4kg
мы как будто в разных мирах живём. У России и США совершенно разный рынок.
Phaserunner and cycleanalyst are quite expensive
Grin cycle analysis.. I was going to buy this. But I couldn't justify the purchase unless I was running 2 motors. Price is to high wish they had a basic, cheaper setup..
@@MagnumPopeye Good quality costs money. Grin motors aren't made in a Chinese sweatshop factory.
Yes because all of the Bafang motors are made in Canada...We were talking about the Phaserunner and cycleanalyst not Grin motors DS@@sammiller6631
He rides it on the flat.its no good on the roads I use everyday,that are steep inclines for miles around.
bro i littery did this to my bikes my self I just used bunch of soda cans
I put a 5000w kit on a 29" mountain bike. I'm never going back to low power bikes.
cycmotor x1 pro gen 3 is very powerful. i have gen 4. they scream
Pronounced Bay-Fong. Js.
Throttle=emoped•not ebike. Not legal in national parks, requires license,registration,insurance
In California and soon most other states.
Not most other states. Stop exaggerating.
Imagine a Tri-motor set up with 2 motors on the wheels and one mid-drive motor!
Puny
😅 did he say 5,000 I don't think that is legal😂
iam a tannus fkn master installer not that hard. I get $80 per install of 2 wheels
0:38 your not a eE-Bike rider, that is a electric scooter your driving on, you are not peddeling that makes it a scooter.. a E-Scooter.
so you are not revieing any E-Bikes, biut E-Scooters.
sidewalks are for pedestrians, man
bicycles and even less ebikes have no rights to be there
He's riding it on the pavement.illegal.
your face is long
7:57 hey u didn’t indicate that turn