Thank you Sal, you are amazing, I would have to live another 50 years and still would not begin to have your knowledge and expertise. I teach DIY'rs every week simple, very simple basics for about an hour. After watching just one of your videos I feel so limited. But, you inspire me to continue to watch, listen and learn and do my best with my students. I always, always stress that before they start any project to watch your videos. And not to totally rely on what little I can present in an hour. That you are the "Teacher" I too am the pupil. God bless you man!!
+Chub Troester Thanks for the kind words, but i am just a tile setter that has been doing it a very long time, can't help but learn something along the way.
Hi Chad, Being you’re a teacher, I’d like some advice on installing granite tile on concrete slab that had Mastic glue. What is the best procedure? Should all the 30 yr old Mastic be removed or can I pour a self leveler cement first?
Thanks sal. I'm doing the same project right now, but I've only done the traditional heated floors that are imbedded in self leveling. Very helpful. When ever I have doubts about something, I just check out your videos. It's great to know there are knowledgeable installers out there who don't cut corners.
Not saying I am a tile master but I am a big fan of doing it right the first time. Watched this guy install and I like what i see. Learned a few things and would absolutely recommend this video.
Never used the ditra heat system. Will be doing 230 sq ft of it very soon. Thanks for making this video. Its super interesting. Appears a very straight forward system. Thanks.
Thank you so much for breaking this down step by step- going to instal this myself under a pebble floor and considering running three separate ditra heat sections through the entire ground floor of my otherwise I heated cabin in the mountains
Your videos are great! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. When I see your name behind a video, I know it's trustworthy info! This will help me immensely when I do my bathroom floor.
I am watching many of you videos... Love them... I am want to put this in my RV .. Class A... 31'... Killing 2 birds with one stone... The heating in the floor... and the tile. Would you recommend this in an RV... I have lay down Tile before in houses... I flip old houses and RVs.. I'm on my 25th one right now. but I have never used Ditra... but it looks great, and I think it would be better than the old way, especially since it is on plywood substrate.
Can I put the Schluter heat cable type pad on an Oatey membrane? I prefer the continuous Oatey membrane for its waterproofing advantages. I am installing a curbless shower. Plan to recess my floor, cover it with tarpaper then a sloped mortar bed toward a linear drain. Membrane will go on top of mortar and direct water into the drain. I will use approved adhesive to hold the membrane securely. Pan will be approximately 60w x 36, not sure if wire mesh is critical in mortar? Trying to keep the height of the tile in the pan as low as practical after accounting for the slope and thickness of all the components. Hoping to hear that thinset between the Oatey membrane and the Schluter pad is acceptable. Please advise.
Great Video Sal...but if you read the directions You only use unmodified thinset with all Ditra products... Ditra doesnt allow enough air into the drying mortar....modified needs more air to dry ......so if you use modified you have to allow for very long drying times between installs and Ditra will not cover any warranty issues if you use Modified Thinset
True when you are installing the tile on the Ditra, in other words the thinset between the tile and ditra has to be unmodified, However when you install the ditra onto the plywood then the thinset has to be modified, to be clear the thinset between the ditra and the plywood sub floor has to be modified. Here is a link to the Ditra Handbook so you can review and confirm my assertion. s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf and here is another video of mine where I go into great detail about ditra and how it works ua-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/v-deo.html
Sal, I noticed in one spot when you were winding the wire against an angled wall that you wound the wire around three sides of a single "knob" before continuing with the three-knob spacing. Could this potentially have any impact on the correct function of the product? Also, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I have found many of them to be very useful.
Val, the basic difference as I understand it is that modified thinsets are exactly that.. modified with agents to help bonding between your tile and substrate (cement, osb plywood, etc). the replaced unmodified thinsets many years ago to aid in bonding, drying time, moisture control, etc. (seemed like a marketing thing to me at that time). It also changes drying time and integrity of the mortar bond/strength, and the reason for "non modified" for tile to coupling membrane is that Schluter has designed it to set tile better with non modified. The under side uses modified to grab the felt backing and bond to OSB flooring. Note concrete uses different mortar than wood. I would ask a Menards associate for examples of each type they carry, then do your online research about how good each is or find reviews of them.
Is there a question in that, or are you making a statement. I actually do know why modified and unmodified thinset are used, and where they sould be used for Schluter products.
***** No question in that... just making light that she need not be concerned with the science and polymer chemistry that goes into making "modified" thinsets that change the character, strength, and bonding of thinset as compared to the old non-modified thinsets decades ago. (beyond the scope of this thread and your how to video) and that she should ask for a quality thinset of each type to do her floor. If you'd like to inform me on how modified/unmodified differ, why they were designed, and what experienced tradesman think of each, I'm all ears. I enjoy learning as well as DIY projects.
Jared Waterman Val, here is a good review of "unmodified thinset reviews" for tile to ditra membrane install. floorelf.com/unmodified-thinsets-a-users-guide
I'm planning to put some ditra heat down in the basement over concrete slab however when the joist bays of the ceiling were painted there was a lot of spray that drifted down to the unmasked floor. Any special prep for slab with some oversprayed paint?
Hi great video from the UK! And after electrician you need self levelling? Over wires then adhesive flexible then insulation board the adhesive then you install tiles ? Plz that will be helpful thanks
Self leveling goes under the ditra if needed, tile is installed directly over the heat wire and mat. This might help ua-cam.com/video/OmUrM4Nl1VY/v-deo.html
Found it, looks like the 50 lb bag was for larger trowel size for tile to coupling membrane. ESTIMATED THIN-SET COVERAGE To bond DITRA-HEAT to the substrate: Use one 50 lb. (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 100 ft2 (9.3 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a 1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 40 - 50 ft2 (3.7 - 4.6 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a 1/2" x 1/2" (13 mm x 13 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 30 - 40 ft2 (2.8 - 3.7 m2).
This is my next project for our master bath. Do you use the schluter expansion edges and put the trim on top, or do you just leave a gap around the tile perimeter and put the wall trim down over it?
Sal, Do you prefer the Schluter Heat or the laticrete strata mat? And why?I've always used the Schluter products and have always needed to order them. Local distributor here sells all laticrete products, so I was thinking about trying out. I love watching your videos as you surely are a Master Craftsman, thank you. I'm 43 and it's really difficult to find individuals and/or companies that do a project correctly.
My supplier carries schluter, so that is what I use, and it is a great product so I am happy to use it. Laticrete is also a great company, so you really should not hesitate if it is easier for you to get.
Is it possible to install Ditra over cement board or can I only apply this directly onto a plywood underlayment? I have 3/4 plywood and just installed cement board on the floor. Now I'm wondering if it's too late to do this type of floor heat system.
are those sensor prone to fail over the years ? I mean the second one is a back up but how many years can u expect a sensor to last ? Thank you Sir..Great video !!
Sal, I had my bathroom all planned out with Ditra Heat and now I read that it's not really for heating the room, just the floor. That's not something that Schluter makes apparent. It seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go through just to keep your toes warm. I'm wondering now if I should even bother. The mats are down, but I haven't installed the cable or thermostat. Should I just put an electric radiator in instead? It's a small bathroom, 9"x 7', on a concrete slab in an unheated garage. The walls are all well insulated and the rooms above it are heated.
Yes that is true, but i have installed ditra heat countless times and everyone has loved it. I would still install it , it does make the room more comfortable.
Thanks for the video Sal, very clear instruction. One question; in your opinion is the Ditra-Heat material/ mat a little more forgiving as regards leveling the floor initially. It looks to me like the thinset used to adhere the mats to the floor could perform some minor levelling when smoothed over with the wooden trowel?
It is possible to to use regular Ditra and plow a curved line with a router into which you press the cable. It compromises the Dita a little. But you have complete control of how long and where the cable runs to.
I was wondering, why the heat vents weren't removed or at least the one on the floor in the main traffic area rerouted into the wall so that some one in bare feet wouldn't trip on it. Doesn't this system produce enough heat to comfortably heat this room without the use of a forced air system? I am converting an attached single car garage into a bed sitting room and am exploring various ways of heating this space as I can't run forced air without open the floor to the main house easily. I like this system but if it doesn't produce enough comfortable heat I may have to look at baseboard heating instead. I would appreciate your take on this. Thanks and very good video by the way.
Can you also describe if you placed perimeter, surface, or expansion joints in your install, or if these are not shown, or unnecessary due to the size of the room?
Jared Waterman Perimeter expansion joints are present at all surfaces that the tile abuts and must be present for a successful long lasting installation, especially on the floor, where expansion and contraction is exacerbated and amplified by the heating wire in the floor
Hi Sal, I want to first thank you for all of your excellent videos that have helped me out so far. I put down the Ditra Heat two weeks ago with Laticrete 254 platinum to my plywood floor. Where I am a DIY I wanted to fill in the waffles and wires first before I started tiling so that I could snap lines ect.. I filled it with the 254 that I had and that was about two weeks ago. I’m kicking myself for not filling it in with the recommended un modified. I was told that I should be fine now though because it has had plenty of time to dry. At this stage should I still use the un modified or should I use the modified now that I have filled the waffles and wires in with the 254. I will be using 24x24 tiles what do you suggest that I use. Thanks a lot for all of your help.
Christopher DiBona Did your tile job hold up ok with using all modified thin set? I couldn’t find unmodified for large format tile and want to just use modified for everything
grady 180 It’s holding up great. I’m not worried. about it at all. I’m 99% positive that I bought the large format unmodified at either Lowe’s or HD. The modified Laticrete Platinum 254 I filled the egg crate holes in isn’t going anywhere. Every tile guy I know says they like 255 better because it’s easier to work with, but they say the 254 bonding strength is the best. I’ll look and see if I can find exactly what I used and send you the link. Good Luck
Ignoring local codes.. Is it possible for Ditra to eliminate the need for a second 5/8" substrate? For example if you have 5/8" floor, then it is typical (in tract housing) to install another 5/8" plywood substrate on top of that for tile. Of course the only reason we do that is to save money, and because the code requires it as a minimum. But I would guess that you would not need the second layer of plywood with Ditra. Am I right? Good practice or no? I can't tell if you are installing Ditra on a second 5/8" plywood surface or not. Anyway thanks for your generous videos Sal!
To all those wondering Sal did respond to this question. I somehow managed to delete it off his own channel? WTF? So here is a copy and paste of the answer: "Sal DiBlasi Ditra would be in place of the second layer of plywood, unless you plan on installing natural stone, then you would need two layers and then the ditra. This is true for dtra, ditra xl, and ditra heat. You can download the handbook for ditra heat here www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=06h5VIyKEMu1sQSIu4AI&url=www.schluter.com/ditra-heat/media/ditraheat-handbook-2014.pdf&ved=0CCoQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGXo2e0NzILCe1-edRJlj9d8dHiog&sig2=KfLB4fD2kKtHTo-AWdH3KA " There might have been a bit more but it got cut off in my e-mail notification. Thank for the detailed reply Sal and sorry! I have no idea how I even managed to do that!!
Unmodified thinset is a must and you will void any warranty if you don't use it. You can use regular ditra in the unheated areas, but Ditra heat is a little thicker than ditra, and a little thinner than ditra XL, so you might just want to use ditra heat membrane for the whole thing. Use only a premium unmodified thinset, like Tec Uncoupling Membrane Mortar, or DitraSet or some other quality product.
Hello Sal, I was told that Kerdi has to be installed between the tile and the ditra heat , though I did a floor with ditra heat and just the tile on top like you
As mentioned very briefly near the end, you cannot have, say 5 ft., of heating cable left over. This point I believe is highly critical and should have deserved much more discussion. What if I don't have a closet to "readjust" and eat up excess? I will check to see if there is a different length packages available for small bathrooms. Maybe another video is out there but I would have loved to see the electrical hookup or is this done on purposes since this is outside the scope of a DIY'er?
I have since uploaded several videos about ditra heat, however the actual connections to power need to be done by a licensed electrician. As always you should never rely on a video as your sole source of information, complete instructions come with every ditra heat wire, which should be thoroughly reviewed and understood.
If the plywood were the only determining factor, that thickness would be ok, however the suitability of a subfloor for tile is determined by the whole structure. Cement board has no structural value, so it would only add thickness not strength. ua-cam.com/video/74BDTI67S1M/v-deo.html
Sal - thanks for your videos, I'm learning a lot. have you ever used ditraheat over a cork underlayment as a thermal break (glued down over concrete?). Do you use unmodified or modified thinset over cork?
+Sal DiBlasi i saw that - unfortunately that was released after I already bought my cork board and ditraheat (without tb). would've gone with that had I waited, but now I'm stuck with the cork board option. Would still welcome any thoughts you might have on bonding ditraheat to cork?
Another question for you. I put the Ditra Heat mats down using Bostic Ditraset, 1/4"x 1/4" trowel, on a concrete slab. One small section, maybe 6" x 2", in the corner of the mat doesn't look like it adhered to the floor as well as it should have. It's glued down, but it looks like I could pull it up if I tried. Should I cut the section out and adhere another piece?
Sal, I'm to the point where the saddle will be installed. Any tips? It's 36"X 6 1/2", marble. The substrate is concrete. I figured I would cut a piece of ditra, thinset it to the floor, then thinset the saddle on to the ditra. Should the thinset be a little stiffer than usual? Do you back butter a saddle? Trowel size? Thanks in advance for your help!
I would have used a slightly better mortar on the Advantech, but the 253 will work, you have no warranty with the 253 on the Ditra, but it should be fine.
Hi Sal. The question: Doesn't this Warmup system need some insulation e.g. Jackoboard? I guess the matting is not providing any insulation or am I wrong?
On plywood no, on concrete they have the same product with a thermal break incorporated into the mat, installation is identical. ua-cam.com/video/DjPMNpn-dzk/v-deo.html
Sal, great videos! I am doing a Ditra Heat and my question is can you set the Ditra and walk on it the same day or do you have to wait until it dries to the floor?
+hectorjrr No need to wait, you can even start setting your tile if you like, however i like to let it set overnight, if you have to lift a tile for any reason you have to be very careful not to lift the ditra as well.
@@SalDiBlasi toward the beginning of the video you recommend unmodified for concrete. I know you mention that you want to use unmodified whenever there is no place for it to dry besides for through the grout lines in other videos but why with concrete do you mention using unmodified in the video. Is there a reason it's preferable?
This particular floor had moisture issues, so unmodified was the best option, however in most cases a modified mortar is perfectly acceptable for concrete.
+Sal DiBlasi it is a Portland cement based patch...Henry unipro to be exact. Had to cover 99% of the floor practically. A ditra pro said I could use ditra set, an unmodified thin set.
Question, I read in the install manual about expansion joints. I am not sure if this applies to my application. I am installing ditra heat tb over an existing concrete floor in a sunroom. The area is 11 x 15. Do I have to have expansion joints? I left 1/4 inch around the perimeter. I am confused about what the manual says. I will be installing 4 x 8 tiles over this. Ty for any help.
+D Johnson indoor every 20 to 25 feet, outdoor or exposed area every 8 to 12 feet and awalys movement joint a the perimeter. So if the floor is exposed to full sun it is considered exposed, if not exposed to full sun, it is considered indoor.
Sal DiBlasi , ty for getting back to me. The room has windows on 3 sides but it does not get direct sunlight. There is a singled roof over the room and the room has AC as well. The concrete floor is approximately 60 years old. So if I understand what you are saying, I should be ok with just the perimeter joint against the walls. ty for your help.
How do i install ditra heat for my shower pan? Master bath floor will get heat and also want it in shower? Do the entire floor the very first thing and then install shower pan on top of ditra heat?
@@SalDiBlasi bummer. So I’m gonna need to cut out the diagonal running 1x6 subfloor and replace with plywood (cause if I add on top, it won’t even out with hardwood coming into the bathroom). Wonder why? Cause of the spacing between each board?
+Mark Yamada I actually don't use that one any more, gave me a lot of trouble This is the one i use now. www.amazon.com/Extech-380260-Autoranging-Digital-Insulation/dp/B000EWW2UA
Yes goes in the wall up to the electrical box where it is connected to the power and thermostat. If the lead is threaded through a conduit, the sensor wires should not be threaded through the same conduit but separately.
Sal, I am so confused over the unmodified and modified thin set situation. I am laying Ditra Heat membrane over plywood and then 16x16 travertine. I know that I need polymer modified thin set on the plywood under the Ditra Heat and unmodified on top of the Ditra, under the travertine. I have a local Menards store and there are so many choices. I found TEC Full Flex Premium Latex Modified Thin Set Mortar which looks like it will work under the Ditra, but also found TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar which says it can be used with the Ditra and many more choices. Can you please lead me to some exact brands or model numbers? I cannot fine anything that specifically says unmodified and don't know what the means exactly. I don't wan't to get the wrong ones.
Full flex is good to install the ditra, and the TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar is good to set your tile on the ditra. In other word FullFlex is modified, and TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar is unmodified, and is the one i always use. If you look at the bag you will find the Schluter logo on it. It is called Uncoupling Membrane Mortar, because Ditra is an Uncoupoling membrane. If you have not seen this video, it might help you understand, ua-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/v-deo.html
I know this was published a long time ago, but Schluter says to install 8 inches from another heat source such as electric baseboard, but only 4 inches from a heat vent. You didnt need to stay 8 inches from the heat vent as you did in this video, only 4 inches
@@SalDiBlasi Sal, actually I am confused now. The Schluter Video at 10:37 says 4 inches from a forced air heating duct, but the current DItra Heat Installation guide says 8 inches from heating sources including forced air heating ducts. It seems things have changed, either the code or the concept. I will contact Schluter next week for more information
Someone I know put the heat system right over plywood how would you install tile over that ? Detra is best and you need a sub floor especially under plywood
No, unmodified, unless you use schluter thinset, which was not available at the time this video was made. So to be clear, Modified under the Ditra Mat to install it on Plywood, Unmodified to install the tile on the mat, unless it is Schluter AllSet thinset.
Short answer: Yes. Long answer: The when mortar is mixed with water it causes small crystals to grow. These crystals grow into whatever they are adjacent to; like the substrate below and tiles above. However this bonding process doesn't work with the top, plastic side of Ditra. Instead the process is mimicked by having the mortar fill in the holes, which are wider at the bottom, to mechanically lock the tiles in place. This is why Ditra is referred to as an "uncoupling" device since it keeps the tile in place while keeping it separate from a floor prone to lateral movement; cracked concrete, plywood etc.
Did you ever try to put over the wonderboard? I am finally doing my bathroom and cement boards are all over my floor. Do you think it will work if i place this plastic over my cement boards?
A decent ballpark would be $10/sf. That would include the Ditra, Ditra install, Mortar, Grout, and Tile install. You would still need to purchase tile. Also, adding the in-floor heating would add cost to that (wires, thermostat). You'd likely be around 2 thousand plus the cost of tile.
This is what a modern master craftsmen looks like. Thank you for the video.
I am Autocad draftsman.i need underfloor heating work.
Thank you Sal, you are amazing, I would have to live another 50 years and still would not begin to have your knowledge and expertise. I teach DIY'rs every week simple, very simple basics for about an hour. After watching just one of your videos I feel so limited. But, you inspire me to continue to watch, listen and learn and do my best with my students. I always, always stress that before they start any project to watch your videos. And not to totally rely on what little I can present in an hour. That you are the "Teacher" I too am the pupil. God bless you man!!
+Chub Troester Thanks for the kind words, but i am just a tile setter that has been doing it a very long time, can't help but learn something along the way.
Hi Chad, Being you’re a teacher, I’d like some advice on installing granite tile on concrete slab that had Mastic glue. What is the best procedure? Should all the 30 yr old Mastic be removed or can I pour a self leveler cement first?
Thanks sal. I'm doing the same project right now, but I've only done the traditional heated floors that are imbedded in self leveling. Very helpful. When ever I have doubts about something, I just check out your videos. It's great to know there are knowledgeable installers out there who don't cut corners.
Not saying I am a tile master but I am a big fan of doing it right the first time. Watched this guy install and I like what i see. Learned a few things and would absolutely recommend this video.
Never used the ditra heat system. Will be doing 230 sq ft of it very soon. Thanks for making this video. Its super interesting. Appears a very straight forward system. Thanks.
+Mark Jones it is, and you can always call your rep if you have any questions
Thank you so much for breaking this down step by step- going to instal this myself under a pebble floor and considering running three separate ditra heat sections through the entire ground floor of my otherwise I heated cabin in the mountains
Glad it was helpful!
Your videos are great! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. When I see your name behind a video, I know it's trustworthy info! This will help me immensely when I do my bathroom floor.
Thanks for the kind words.
I really wish I could have worked for you, and learned from you. Your a fantastic teacher.
Way more fun than heat cable in self leveling compound!
Love the fact that your videos are detailed.keep it up
😊
And no unnecessary fluff or annoying background music. Detailed narrative but not just talking to hear himself talk......you know who you are people!
What an Artisan you are Sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
👍😊
Loved this video. I've subscribed! One of the best done how-to videos! Thanks!
Explained really well.... left no ambiguity...
I installed in Uruguay 🇺🇾 South America
Nice work! And at 9:45, great beat! Especially at 9:57! DJ Sal!
Dude your awesome as hell, Damn great installer and man period.
I am watching many of you videos... Love them...
I am want to put this in my RV .. Class A... 31'...
Killing 2 birds with one stone... The heating in the floor... and the tile.
Would you recommend this in an RV...
I have lay down Tile before in houses... I flip old houses and RVs.. I'm on my 25th one right now.
but I have never used Ditra... but it looks great, and I think it would be better than the old way, especially since it is on plywood substrate.
Best to contact Schluter to see if there are any special concerns for an RV, and whether or not it is approved for RVs.
@@SalDiBlasi
Thank you so much for your speedy reply
Fantastic Sal. Great overview. Thank you for such a thorough review!
Great video Sal, just what I needed
Very useful-- Sal, you're the man!
Glad to help
Hey Sal. That alarm symbol is called continuity. Just a heads up. Informative as always.
honest professional
A true craftsman!
Can I put the Schluter heat cable type pad on an Oatey membrane? I prefer the continuous Oatey membrane for its waterproofing advantages. I am installing a curbless shower. Plan to recess my floor, cover it with tarpaper then a sloped mortar bed toward a linear drain. Membrane will go on top of mortar and direct water into the drain. I will use approved adhesive to hold the membrane securely. Pan will be approximately 60w x 36, not sure if wire mesh is critical in mortar? Trying to keep the height of the tile in the pan as low as practical after accounting for the slope and thickness of all the components. Hoping to hear that thinset between the Oatey membrane and the Schluter pad is acceptable. Please advise.
Great Video Sal...but if you read the directions You only use unmodified thinset with all Ditra products... Ditra doesnt allow enough air into the drying mortar....modified needs more air to dry ......so if you use modified you have to allow for very long drying times between installs and Ditra will not cover any warranty issues if you use Modified Thinset
True when you are installing the tile on the Ditra, in other words the thinset between the tile and ditra has to be unmodified, However when you install the ditra onto the plywood then the thinset has to be modified, to be clear the thinset between the ditra and the plywood sub floor has to be modified. Here is a link to the Ditra Handbook so you can review and confirm my assertion. s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf and here is another video of mine where I go into great detail about ditra and how it works ua-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/v-deo.html
If I was to build a house I'd have to fly this guy for in to do all tile work
Moose and Nathan put on that UA-cam
V g ud y f
Thanks! I enjoyed watching your videos
Great video. Thank you
Sal, I noticed in one spot when you were winding the wire against an angled wall that you wound the wire around three sides of a single "knob" before continuing with the three-knob spacing. Could this potentially have any impact on the correct function of the product? Also, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I have found many of them to be very useful.
Thanks, Sal...You're the best
Val, the basic difference as I understand it is that modified thinsets are exactly that.. modified with agents to help bonding between your tile and substrate (cement, osb plywood, etc). the replaced unmodified thinsets many years ago to aid in bonding, drying time, moisture control, etc. (seemed like a marketing thing to me at that time). It also changes drying time and integrity of the mortar bond/strength, and the reason for "non modified" for tile to coupling membrane is that Schluter has designed it to set tile better with non modified. The under side uses modified to grab the felt backing and bond to OSB flooring. Note concrete uses different mortar than wood. I would ask a Menards associate for examples of each type they carry, then do your online research about how good each is or find reviews of them.
Is there a question in that, or are you making a statement. I actually do know why modified and unmodified thinset are used, and where they sould be used for Schluter products.
***** No question in that... just making light that she need not be concerned with the science and polymer chemistry that goes into making "modified" thinsets that change the character, strength, and bonding of thinset as compared to the old non-modified thinsets decades ago. (beyond the scope of this thread and your how to video) and that she should ask for a quality thinset of each type to do her floor. If you'd like to inform me on how modified/unmodified differ, why they were designed, and what experienced tradesman think of each, I'm all ears. I enjoy learning as well as DIY projects.
Jared Waterman Val, here is a good review of "unmodified thinset reviews" for tile to ditra membrane install.
floorelf.com/unmodified-thinsets-a-users-guide
I'm planning to put some ditra heat down in the basement over concrete slab however when the joist bays of the ceiling were painted there was a lot of spray that drifted down to the unmasked floor. Any special prep for slab with some oversprayed paint?
Hi great video from the UK! And after electrician you need self levelling? Over wires then adhesive flexible then insulation board the adhesive then you install tiles ? Plz that will be helpful thanks
Self leveling goes under the ditra if needed, tile is installed directly over the heat wire and mat. This might help ua-cam.com/video/OmUrM4Nl1VY/v-deo.html
NIce video, very well done and explain!
Found it, looks like the 50 lb bag was for larger trowel size for tile to coupling membrane.
ESTIMATED THIN-SET COVERAGE
To bond DITRA-HEAT to the substrate:
Use one 50 lb. (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per
100 ft2 (9.3 m2).
To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a
1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or
U-notched trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag
of mortar per 40 - 50 ft2 (3.7 - 4.6 m2).
To bond the tile to the DITRA-HEAT, using a 1/2"
x 1/2" (13 mm x 13 mm) square- or U-notched
trowel: Use one 50 lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar
per 30 - 40 ft2 (2.8 - 3.7 m2).
Nicely done 👍🏽
This is my next project for our master bath. Do you use the schluter expansion edges and put the trim on top, or do you just leave a gap around the tile perimeter and put the wall trim down over it?
+Brice Hultgren Either way will work as long as there is room for movement.
Sal,
Do you prefer the Schluter Heat or the laticrete strata mat? And why?I've always used the Schluter products and have always needed to order them. Local distributor here sells all laticrete products, so I was thinking about trying out.
I love watching your videos as you surely are a Master Craftsman, thank you.
I'm 43 and it's really difficult to find individuals and/or companies that do a project correctly.
My supplier carries schluter, so that is what I use, and it is a great product so I am happy to use it. Laticrete is also a great company, so you really should not hesitate if it is easier for you to get.
Is it possible to install Ditra over cement board or can I only apply this directly onto a plywood underlayment? I have 3/4 plywood and just installed cement board on the floor. Now I'm wondering if it's too late to do this type of floor heat system.
are those sensor prone to fail over the years ? I mean the second one is a back up but how many years can u expect a sensor to last ? Thank you Sir..Great video !!
+Andy B Really can't answer that question, but have not heard of any failing yet.
ok thank you Sal !
Do you tile right on top or self level?
Thank you sir. Vary helpfull.
Sal, I had my bathroom all planned out with Ditra Heat and now I read that it's not really for heating the room, just the floor. That's not something that Schluter makes apparent. It seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go through just to keep your toes warm. I'm wondering now if I should even bother. The mats are down, but I haven't installed the cable or thermostat. Should I just put an electric radiator in instead? It's a small bathroom, 9"x 7', on a concrete slab in an unheated garage. The walls are all well insulated and the rooms above it are heated.
Yes that is true, but i have installed ditra heat countless times and everyone has loved it. I would still install it , it does make the room more comfortable.
Good video, very informative.
Thanks for the video Sal, very clear instruction. One question; in your opinion is the Ditra-Heat material/ mat a little more forgiving as regards leveling the floor initially. It looks to me like the thinset used to adhere the mats to the floor could perform some minor levelling when smoothed over with the wooden trowel?
No none at all, the floor should be completely prepped and leveled before installing the mat.
Ok great. My first install of Ditra Heat this week! Just leveled the floor;) Thanks for your response.
It is possible to to use regular Ditra and plow a curved line with a router into which you press the cable. It compromises the Dita a little. But you have complete control of how long and where the cable runs to.
Are you making a statement, or asking a question?
Oh and the last question I have is Can you install the regular DITRA if you have a large floor and only want to heat part of that floor?
Thanks..Joe
Excellent video, thank you for uploading!
Great job
I was wondering, why the heat vents weren't removed or at least the one on the floor in the main traffic area rerouted into the wall so that some one in bare feet wouldn't trip on it. Doesn't this system produce enough heat to comfortably heat this room without the use of a forced air system? I am converting an attached single car garage into a bed sitting room and am exploring various ways of heating this space as I can't run forced air without open the floor to the main house easily. I like this system but if it doesn't produce enough comfortable heat I may have to look at baseboard heating instead. I would appreciate your take on this. Thanks and very good video by the way.
Most electric floor heating systems are only to make the floor comfortable, but do not produce enough heat to function as a primary source of heat.
Thanks for your reply....guess I'll have to go with baseboard heating of some kind.
Can you also describe if you placed perimeter, surface, or expansion joints in your install, or if these are not shown, or unnecessary due to the size of the room?
Jared Waterman Perimeter expansion joints are present at all surfaces that the tile abuts and must be present for a successful long lasting installation, especially on the floor, where expansion and contraction is exacerbated and amplified by the heating wire in the floor
Hi Sal, I want to first thank you for all of your excellent videos that have helped me out so far. I put down the Ditra Heat two weeks ago with Laticrete 254 platinum to my plywood floor. Where I am a DIY I wanted to fill in the waffles and wires first before I started tiling so that I could snap lines ect.. I filled it with the 254 that I had and that was about two weeks ago. I’m kicking myself for not filling it in with the recommended un modified. I was told that I should be fine now though because it has had plenty of time to dry. At this stage should I still use the un modified or should I use the modified now that I have filled the waffles and wires in with the 254. I will be using 24x24 tiles what do you suggest that I use. Thanks a lot for all of your help.
Should be fine, since it is all dry, probably would be a good idea to use schluter thinset, either the modified or unmodified will work.
Christopher DiBona Did your tile job hold up ok with using all modified thin set? I couldn’t find unmodified for large format tile and want to just use modified for everything
grady 180 It’s holding up great. I’m not worried. about it at all. I’m 99% positive that I bought the large format unmodified at either Lowe’s or HD. The modified Laticrete Platinum 254 I filled the egg crate holes in isn’t going anywhere. Every tile guy I know says they like 255 better because it’s easier to work with, but they say the 254 bonding strength is the best. I’ll look and see if I can find exactly what I used and send you the link. Good Luck
Ignoring local codes.. Is it possible for Ditra to eliminate the need for a second 5/8" substrate? For example if you have 5/8" floor, then it is typical (in tract housing) to install another 5/8" plywood substrate on top of that for tile. Of course the only reason we do that is to save money, and because the code requires it as a minimum. But I would guess that you would not need the second layer of plywood with Ditra. Am I right? Good practice or no? I can't tell if you are installing Ditra on a second 5/8" plywood surface or not. Anyway thanks for your generous videos Sal!
To all those wondering Sal did respond to this question. I somehow managed to delete it off his own channel? WTF? So here is a copy and paste of the answer:
"Sal DiBlasi
Ditra would be in place of the second layer of plywood, unless you plan on installing natural stone, then you would need two layers and then the ditra. This is true for dtra, ditra xl, and ditra heat. You can download the handbook for ditra heat here www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=06h5VIyKEMu1sQSIu4AI&url=www.schluter.com/ditra-heat/media/ditraheat-handbook-2014.pdf&ved=0CCoQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGXo2e0NzILCe1-edRJlj9d8dHiog&sig2=KfLB4fD2kKtHTo-AWdH3KA "
There might have been a bit more but it got cut off in my e-mail notification. Thank for the detailed reply Sal and sorry! I have no idea how I even managed to do that!!
Spiny Norman
Don't ask me what happened, seems to me that you have magical powers.
Good job!! 👏🏼
Thank you!! 😁
HI Sal....When I watched the Schluter video they suggested to use the unmodified thin set? What do you think?
Joe
Unmodified thinset is a must and you will void any warranty if you don't use it. You can use regular ditra in the unheated areas, but Ditra heat is a little thicker than ditra, and a little thinner than ditra XL, so you might just want to use ditra heat membrane for the whole thing. Use only a premium unmodified thinset, like Tec Uncoupling Membrane Mortar, or DitraSet or some other quality product.
Hello Sal, I was told that Kerdi has to be installed between the tile and the ditra heat , though I did a floor with ditra heat and just the tile on top like you
Kerdi on top of ditra heat when in a wet area like a shower floor, otherwise not needed
As mentioned very briefly near the end, you cannot have, say 5 ft., of heating cable left over. This point I believe is highly critical and should have deserved much more discussion. What if I don't have a closet to "readjust" and eat up excess? I will check to see if there is a different length packages available for small bathrooms. Maybe another video is out there but I would have loved to see the electrical hookup or is this done on purposes since this is outside the scope of a DIY'er?
I have since uploaded several videos about ditra heat, however the actual connections to power need to be done by a licensed electrician. As always you should never rely on a video as your sole source of information, complete instructions come with every ditra heat wire, which should be thoroughly reviewed and understood.
The cable is made to order based on a measurement sheet you send in. If you are exact with your measurements, you should not have excess.
If you have 18mm ply is that okay to put the ditra straight on or do you need to put a cement board on top of the ply?
If the plywood were the only determining factor, that thickness would be ok, however the suitability of a subfloor for tile is determined by the whole structure. Cement board has no structural value, so it would only add thickness not strength. ua-cam.com/video/74BDTI67S1M/v-deo.html
are you supposed to avoid placing the heat lines under potential furniture?
If you have permanent fixtures, yes.
Thanks for the info sal
I thought you have to put the all set under the undelayment too
Hello,
Was thinking of doing this in my bathroom. How has this held up over the years?
Thank you,
Mark
Very reliable, no issues.
Thank you.
Great video
That looks painful to do that everyday. Good man
Just do it once a week for several grand.
Sal - thanks for your videos, I'm learning a lot. have you ever used ditraheat over a cork underlayment as a thermal break (glued down over concrete?). Do you use unmodified or modified thinset over cork?
there is now a version of ditra heat with an incorporated thermal break so you can avoid the extra step.
+Sal DiBlasi i saw that - unfortunately that was released after I already bought my cork board and ditraheat (without tb). would've gone with that had I waited, but now I'm stuck with the cork board option. Would still welcome any thoughts you might have on bonding ditraheat to cork?
Best to contact schluter about that, they are usually very helpful and will answer all your questions.
Do you keep wire 3" off of toe kick on cabinet or 3" off of front of cabinet ?
Would you use leveling compound before installing the mat or level over the mat?
Mat is always the last thing before the tile. Any leveling should be done before installing the Ditr.
Great video!
Another question for you. I put the Ditra Heat mats down using Bostic Ditraset, 1/4"x 1/4" trowel, on a concrete slab. One small section, maybe 6" x 2", in the corner of the mat doesn't look like it adhered to the floor as well as it should have. It's glued down, but it looks like I could pull it up if I tried. Should I cut the section out and adhere another piece?
See if you can get some thinset under it and put a weight on it.
Thanks again, Sal!
Sal, I'm to the point where the saddle will be installed. Any tips? It's 36"X 6 1/2", marble. The substrate is concrete. I figured I would cut a piece of ditra, thinset it to the floor, then thinset the saddle on to the ditra. Should the thinset be a little stiffer than usual? Do you back butter a saddle? Trowel size? Thanks in advance for your help!
As with any tile or threshold it needs to have proper thinset coverage. Back butter, mix thinset as usual install as usual on the ditra.
Thanks Sal!
Sal, I used latacrete 253 for both ditra to advantech plywood and for the marble 1" hex mosaic to ditra..is that ok?
I would have used a slightly better mortar on the Advantech, but the 253 will work, you have no warranty with the 253 on the Ditra, but it should be fine.
Hi Sal. The question: Doesn't this Warmup system need some insulation e.g. Jackoboard? I guess the matting is not providing any insulation or am I wrong?
On plywood no, on concrete they have the same product with a thermal break incorporated into the mat, installation is identical.
ua-cam.com/video/DjPMNpn-dzk/v-deo.html
2 meters for reading resistance and continuity: when they die out on you, just replace it with a good multi-meter that will do all those and more.
Hello Sal, I assume the ditra heat requires its own isolated circuit? Im assuming a 20 amp dedicated.
Yes, must have its own dedicated circuit.
Sal, great videos! I am doing a Ditra Heat and my question is can you set the Ditra and walk on it the same day or do you have to wait until it dries to the floor?
+hectorjrr No need to wait, you can even start setting your tile if you like, however i like to let it set overnight, if you have to lift a tile for any reason you have to be very careful not to lift the ditra as well.
when isntalling ditra heat on a layer of self leveler, do you use a modified or is it considered like concrete and you use an unmodified thin set?
Use modified, which can also be used for concrete.
@@SalDiBlasi toward the beginning of the video you recommend unmodified for concrete. I know you mention that you want to use unmodified whenever there is no place for it to dry besides for through the grout lines in other videos but why with concrete do you mention using unmodified in the video. Is there a reason it's preferable?
This particular floor had moisture issues, so unmodified was the best option, however in most cases a modified mortar is perfectly acceptable for concrete.
@@SalDiBlasi thank you Sal
I have an old plank floor in a kitchen and used floor level patch to level it...can I use modified thinset over this to attach the ditra?
+Mike LoVetere If you applied the patch according to instructions and is a suitable patch, then yes.
+Sal DiBlasi it is a Portland cement based patch...Henry unipro to be exact. Had to cover 99% of the floor practically. A ditra pro said I could use ditra set, an unmodified thin set.
hi Sal , do you have to whait after glue the Ditra berfore walking on it ?
Benoit Talbot no man no need
Can set tile right away.
does the end of the cable have to comeback to the beginning of it? or does it just end wherever?
Just ends, no need to return.
Question, I read in the install manual about expansion joints. I am not sure if this applies to my application. I am installing ditra heat tb over an existing concrete floor in a sunroom. The area is 11 x 15. Do I have to have expansion joints? I left 1/4 inch around the perimeter. I am confused about what the manual says.
I will be installing 4 x 8 tiles over this. Ty for any help.
+D Johnson indoor every 20 to 25 feet, outdoor or exposed area every 8 to 12 feet and awalys movement joint a the perimeter. So if the floor is exposed to full sun it is considered exposed, if not exposed to full sun, it is considered indoor.
Sal DiBlasi , ty for getting back to me. The room has windows on 3 sides but it does not get direct sunlight.
There is a singled roof over the room and the room has AC as well. The concrete floor is approximately 60 years old. So if I understand what you are saying, I should be ok with just the perimeter joint against the walls.
ty for your help.
question did you uses Mortar under the Ditra matt
or what k in nd material you apply to it?
I covered all that in the video.
Ok
How do i install ditra heat for my shower pan? Master bath floor will get heat and also want it in shower? Do the entire floor the very first thing and then install shower pan on top of ditra heat?
Very specific instructions for wet areas ua-cam.com/video/j8F_vTUfShA/v-deo.html
i would schrape and clean floor before cutting mats to size ..but grate video
The floor was scrapped and clean, what you see is a little bit of thinset residue that could not be removed from the previous floor.
Ok sorry but likd this system ..i am from the netherlands and i wil find out this product is availible here
zeeaars www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/
Hello, Question how and what did you use to get the adhesive up prior to putting down the Ditra?
+Dj Chop zcup grinder
Ok, thanks!
Can the ditra heat membrane be installed over old 1x6 subfloor?
no
@@SalDiBlasi bummer. So I’m gonna need to cut out the diagonal running 1x6 subfloor and replace with plywood (cause if I add on top, it won’t even out with hardwood coming into the bathroom). Wonder why? Cause of the spacing between each board?
what type of megohmeter is that you used? I am looking for one to test my cable. thanks.
+Mark Yamada I actually don't use that one any more, gave me a lot of trouble This is the one i use now. www.amazon.com/Extech-380260-Autoranging-Digital-Insulation/dp/B000EWW2UA
I need to know what to do with the wires! "What" did the electrician tell you? How does it get to the thermostat? Does it go into the wall. How?
Yes goes in the wall up to the electrical box where it is connected to the power and thermostat. If the lead is threaded through a conduit, the sensor wires should not be threaded through the same conduit but separately.
Thank you
Sal, Would you like to share the type of MegaOhm meter you used?
Sal, my friend said to use laticrete 254 under ditra heat on plywood. What are your thoughts about that?
+hectorjrr That is perfectly fine, Modified to install the ditra onto the plywood, unmodified to install the tile on the ditra.
+Sal DiBlasi Thank you,
+Sal DiBlasi Hi Sal.... would laticrete 252 work for adhering ditra heat to plywood?
Probably, but I like to at least step up to 253 gold. I never use the lower end thinsets.
+Sal DiBlasi Got it!.... (I had a few bags given to me after a workshop and don't want to see them go to waste)
What's with the spinning around at 2:15?
Wouldn't you have a problem with the thermostat next to a heating vent supply.?
The sensor is in the floor, the thermostat is the control unit.
Will Ditra work for concrete flooring applications?
+Elijah Lopez Yes it will ua-cam.com/video/O7TxmGsCE_8/v-deo.html
Thank You!
Sal, I am so confused over the unmodified and modified thin set situation. I am laying Ditra Heat membrane over plywood and then 16x16 travertine. I know that I need polymer modified thin set on the plywood under the Ditra Heat and unmodified on top of the Ditra, under the travertine. I have a local Menards store and there are so many choices. I found TEC Full Flex Premium Latex Modified Thin Set Mortar which looks like it will work under the Ditra, but also found TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar which says it can be used with the Ditra and many more choices. Can you please lead me to some exact brands or model numbers? I cannot fine anything that specifically says unmodified and don't know what the means exactly. I don't wan't to get the wrong ones.
Full flex is good to install the ditra, and the TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar is good to set your tile on the ditra. In other word FullFlex is modified, and TEC Uncoupling Membrane Mortar is unmodified, and is the one i always use. If you look at the bag you will find the Schluter logo on it. It is called Uncoupling Membrane Mortar, because Ditra is an Uncoupoling membrane. If you have not seen this video, it might help you understand, ua-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/v-deo.html
***** Thanks!
***** you cant use Full flex. In the Manuel you have to use unmodified thin set
*****
The unmodified thinset is to install the tile on the Ditra, the modified thinset is to install the Ditra on the plywood.
I know this was published a long time ago, but Schluter says to install 8 inches from another heat source such as electric baseboard, but only 4 inches from a heat vent. You didnt need to stay 8 inches from the heat vent as you did in this video, only 4 inches
You are correct, this was done when the system was still relatively new, at the time the info was correct.
@@SalDiBlasi Sal, actually I am confused now. The Schluter Video at 10:37 says 4 inches from a forced air heating duct, but the current DItra Heat Installation guide says 8 inches from heating sources including forced air heating ducts. It seems things have changed, either the code or the concept. I will contact Schluter next week for more information
www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/ditraheat-heating-cables-restrictions
Someone I know put the heat system right over plywood how would you install tile over that ? Detra is best and you need a sub floor especially under plywood
That is the old way of doing it, use self leveler to encapsulate the wires.
So just to be clear...modified mortar on the mat for tile?
No, unmodified, unless you use schluter thinset, which was not available at the time this video was made. So to be clear, Modified under the Ditra Mat to install it on Plywood, Unmodified to install the tile on the mat, unless it is Schluter AllSet thinset.
Ok thanks. First time installing ditra floor heat for me.
if you install this on a plywood floor and tile over it you don't need a mudfloor or cement board ?
Correct
thank you
Where is the output??
Need some kind of thermal imaging...
Btw great and informative video...
The thermostat was placed on the small angle wall near the closet. It was installed and hooked up to a dedicated circuit by a licensed electrician.
Sal DiBlasi thanks allot
so when it comes to install tiles- they just stick to that plantic diethra?
Short answer: Yes. Long answer: The when mortar is mixed with water it causes small crystals to grow. These crystals grow into whatever they are adjacent to; like the substrate below and tiles above. However this bonding process doesn't work with the top, plastic side of Ditra. Instead the process is mimicked by having the mortar fill in the holes, which are wider at the bottom, to mechanically lock the tiles in place. This is why Ditra is referred to as an "uncoupling" device since it keeps the tile in place while keeping it separate from a floor prone to lateral movement; cracked concrete, plywood etc.
Still its crazy. I did few bathrooms but never seen tiles and mortal being placed on the top of plastic! I guess its about time to try
here is a detailed explanation. ua-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/v-deo.html
Did you ever try to put over the wonderboard? I am finally doing my bathroom and cement boards are all over my floor. Do you think it will work if i place this plastic over my cement boards?
Sry for errors my fingers are too big for this phone
Why didn't you terminate the heating ducts, now that youv'e installed heated floors?
These heated floors are not meant to be a primary source of heat.
Thank you for your response. Can they be used throughout the house for primary heat or just supplemental heat?
Supplemental heat, under tile for this type of system. There are other types of underfloor heat that can be a primary source of heat.
Thank you, do you have any that you prefer?
How much should I expect to pay for materials and labor if I had someone do a 168 sq ft sunroom
Thanks
Best way to find that out is to get a couple of estimates.
Thanks but a lot of tile guys don't want to touch it, do you have a ballpark figure for labor only? Regards
E Sugar If there is one thing I have learned is never to give a ballpark figure.
A decent ballpark would be $10/sf. That would include the Ditra, Ditra install, Mortar, Grout, and Tile install. You would still need to purchase tile. Also, adding the in-floor heating would add cost to that (wires, thermostat). You'd likely be around 2 thousand plus the cost of tile.