Always consult your shop service manual before attempting any repairs. If in doubt, take your vehicle to an experienced auto mechanic. I hope this helps someone.
Thank You So Much! This video just saved me soooo much money. After getting a $700 quote for this job, both sides😢, I decided To watch some UA-cam and do some google research. This video was the most detailed and informative video that I came across. So I literally watched it 5-6 times last week. I went Amazon got 2 ball joints, same day delivery on Friday morning. Also went to auto store for press and pickle fork. Started the removal process Saturday morning 7am and by 2:30 pm that same day I was done. And I did it all by hand, no air tools. Pickle fork wasn’t necessary, i used my hammer to knock it a loose from the knuckle Pretty simple job as long as you follow these directions. Again, thanks man 😎
Hey thanks for making this video. Have a 96 Town Car that needs new ball joints and this is just what I needed to attack the job. Glad you put the emphasis on respecting that spring.
Great video War Horse. My 1994 Lincoln Town Car Cartier has 205K and after some strange tire wear attempting to do the entire front suspension. I’ve had this ride since about 115K and haven’t done much except replaced a broken tie rod end at one time and had the air suspension converted to springs awhile back when the compressor failed. It was a beautiful car when I got it over 10 years ago but after my wife hit a deer awhile back and Nebraska rust got to it not so pretty anymore. It’s been tore apart in the driveway for about 10 months now up on some very sturdy expensive jack stands i purchased. Kind of gave up for awhile after I think I stripped the power steering gear box to pitman arm nut. It’s on there but probably not legit. Everyone thinks I should get rid of it but I’m stubborn. Plus I got about $1000 in new parts I cannot return I got off rockauto. Super hard finding some of the needed parts these days. I seen upper control arm assembly’s for $300 on eBay (if you can even find them no one makes them anymore). So I ended up finding the shafts and burning out the old bushings and carefully pressing out the old sleeves and pushing in new bushings with my 20 ton harbor freight press last summer. Just bought a Harley Electra Glide so I need to get this Lincoln moveable again to access the garage. Not looking forward to doing the lower control arm bushings due to the coil springs (yes I know the danger). But I’m determined again to get this thing back on the road again. Good engine still and tranny rebuilt around 160K. Bad thing is it’s developed some electrical demons and I don’t do electrical expect (battery/alternators change outs) last time I went to start it I heard a fuse blow or something. Probably going to get it put back together and have it towed for a alignment and the electrical demons fixed. I’m sure it will cost the earth.
Good luck with the restoration. A place called, "Lincoln Land" is a good source for parts. Electrical damage while sitting may have been caused by rodents.
I used to be a member of the guild of master craftsmen during my early printing days. I'm pretty sure you've accomplished the same merit in your field. Great stuff by a master.
I've got so many certifications that they're in the back of the closet somewhere. At one time I was a Master, 'A', tech. there's nothing above that, tho, my mind is getting slower with age, not to mention my body. Good thing I don't do this for a living anymore. :)
Smear some grease on your spindle steering bump stops, they look dry. If these bump stops get dry of grease and the steering is cut as sharp as it'll go and you go to back out of a parking spot you might hear a loud popping and screeching sound from the front end on 2002 and older. 03+ got rack and pinion steering. Great video.
Very helpful information. My XR-7 just lost the bottom ball joint this evening while backing in the drive, so I'm on the business end of this loaded gun. Be getting the parts and the ball joint press, and do the brakes after I'm thru with the repair. Thanks so much for your help.
Just purchased a 99 Crown Vic with 80,000 miles…. Pretty low for a 24 year old car. It still had original ball joints and they were shot. Thanks for the tips, especially the cotter pin hole. Don’t you just love the simplicity of the top ball joint.
Just to clarify- The Mercury Grand Marquis was discontinued when Ford killed the Mercury brand in 2007. The Crown Vic and Town Car lived on until 2011 when Ford discontinued the Panther platform they were built on. I had to chuckle when you mentioned the W126 Mercedes. I just brought my '90 300SEL back home last week, after it sat at a friend's house for almost a year. Judging from the extreme negative camber of the right rear wheel, I suspect the trailing arm is bent. Time for a trip to Pick-a-Part. The factory rear suspension is non-adjustable, but an aftermarket company in Australia makes a kit with eccentric adjusters to fully adjust the rear camber. The fact that the previous owners briefly lived in it and loaded it to the gills with their stuff probably didn't do the old factory springs any favors. Once I've dealt with the damaged suspension and the bad head gasket, I'd like to do the valve body modification where it starts off in first gear rather than second.
I was thinking about your rear end wheel chamber angle. The most common problem is the center differential support/mount. A new mount will bring the carrier up, thus bringing the overly negative chamber back into a more acceptable light. Remember that these cars have a built in negative chamber for better cornering. If that doesn't bring it back to specs, M-B does make different thickness spring pads. Baring any damage to the control arms, or major spring fatigue, That will get you back to the correct settings. Either way, on a W126 of that age, the diff carrier/mount will need replacing. Sorry it took so long to get this out to you, at 61 yo, the mind works a bit slower.
Yeah, I was thinking about that. I've been contemplating yanking the diff out and replacing all those just like you said. The car has over 300K miles on it, so all the bushings are probably shot. The prior homeless druggie owners using the car like an RV probably made it worse. I'm pretty certain that the right rear trailing arm is damaged. The rear passenger door and the section of wheel arch just behind it are completely demolished, and the wheel at that end has far more negative camber than any of the others. It's like a person with a reverse clubbed foot. My plan is to slowly rebuild that car to be a possible eventual replacement for my well-worn 1995 Lexus LS400. The Lexy is a great car- gave me NO major trouble in ten years of owning it until the transmission failed last year at 132,000 miles and I had it rebuilt. Still runs like a champ, but now the AC compressor is eating itself and the 20 year-old leather interior is disintegrating. If I have my way, that Benz is getting ALL new bushings, new springs, new Bilstein shocks, new driveshaft couplers, and a custom high-flow exhaust. If I collect all the new parts but end up dumping the car in the meantime, all those goodies will go on the 560SEC I snag instead :) .
I think you'd like the SEC much better, the 2 door 126 body on that model feels more solid for some reason. Only problem with the 5.6 engine is the valve guides and cams going south, and timing chain, tensioner, and guide rails will need a close eye kept on them. Head gaskets, due to lack of coolant changes, also have a fairly high failure rate. The 126 series also have a good amount of front end wear problems, caster bushings being the top of the list, followed by idler arm bushings and drag links. M-B's, generally speaking will be in the shop more often then a Lexus would be. But sometimes a man just needs to get that out of his system and drive a Benz.
Usually the boot has a bleed hole for excess grease to come out and that should be facing the inside of the car so that the grease doesn't come out and get on the brake rotor. You failed to mention that you should orientate the boot so that the bleed whole faces inside.
There is no bleed hole on these. And for that matter, I've never seen any on any ball joints, including Mercedes, which I worked for as a master tech (A), for 18 years. I think they might have mentioned it in the thousands of their classes I've attended. But I'll keep an eye out for them in the future. ;)
I bought this lift 20 years ago when I had my shop. It was around $3500.00. The slab I poured for it here, 16 years ago, cost around $2000.00. Electrical and bolt lags not included. I have no idea what this stuff costs now a days.
If I found one for super cheap, I wouldn't even mind picking up an early 80s' 380SEC, despite the 3.8 liter engine's dubious reputation. From what I've read, the 3.8's biggest handicap is the weak single-roller timing chain M-B saddled it with. I'm into Detroit muscle, but working on an old Benz doesn't scare me. At the end of the day, it's just a machine like the rest of them. Just give me a good shop manual and I'll yank that front cover off and swap on a double chain set like it's nothing. I'm not necessarily put off by the 380's lack of power. Some slightly healthier Schrick cams, a custom high-flow exhaust, and the dual snorkel air cleaner off a 5.6 should help that old German boat anchor some. My 4100 lb. 1990 Chevy 1500 longbed has the 160hp / 230 lb. ft. 4.3 liter TBI V6 in it and it moves just fine. It's no hot rod, but it keeps up with traffic.
Ok, lemme give ya a quick lesson on the 3.8's. 1981 to 1983 had a single row timing chain, which had a nasty habit of jumping time , and or breaking, thus bending valves, and at higher RPM damage a piston. These years had black head bolts, which cant be reused, and will pull the threads out of the block. The conversion includes drilling all 32 (iirc) head bolt holes and helicoiling the block. To do this you need a special plate that bolts to the block to guide the drill bit, then you'll need the proper shanked starter tap and a finish tap. Now these engines are high silicone and you will probably break a tap off in at least one hole, at which point you'll need to get someone with a laser cutter to remove it. (not cheap). If you do get the job done without any problems and your back is still in fair shape, you need to get all new chrome head bolts. Also to convert to the double row t-chain, you'll need all the gears, rails, tensioner, and chain. I've done more of these then I care to remember. 84-85, 3.8's are fine, as they have the conversion already done at the factory. Personally I would stay away from all the 3.8's, they also had a problem with valve guides getting loose in the head.
Wow... what a clusterfuck! It sounds like M-B really screwed the pooch with that one. I guess it's only worth it if you get the car itself for close to nothing. Odd thing I've noticed. I still see a good number of 380-series W126 coupes and R107 SLs around, but the W126 sedans with that motor have all but vanished. I'm assuming it's because 380SEC / SL owners are willing to tolerate that engine's shortcomings due to the minor collectible status of their cars, whereas the sedans are more generic and therefore disposable.
The SL's will always be in demand, tho with a huge upkeep cost, regardless of year. If you really wanted a 107 SL, i would stick to the 4.5 (450) or the 3.5, tho the latter was a grey market car, and not really a good investment. Those at least had the cast iron block with the good rails and double row T-Chain. The last few years had a good CIS fuel injection system, the earlier ones had the L Jetronic one, which was Ok, except for the wiring harness falling apart. I liked the W113 SL's (230-250-280), much more for looks and dependability, but the price for those went through the roof a long time ago.
Hey Christopher O, you might get a kick out of this project video I did a few years ago, tho the actual build was done many years before the video. Check out part 2 as well. ua-cam.com/video/Nm0XeP_mQNY/v-deo.html
I have a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8 , is this pretty close to what I can expect doing this shit? Ive never done this , lower ball joint broke on me today got it towed to my back yard , Im renting and not supposed to work on anything here either - no pressure
I believe it's about the same, but the last Mark I worked on was a Mark 4, which is a different animal altogether. This is at best a level "B" tech, job. if you've never done a job like this, think twice before you start in. Either way, be careful and good luck.
Make sure to take a hard look at the tie-rod ends, they will make an awful sound too, and have a high failure rate on Lincolns. i believe the Mark 8 has a rack and pinion steering, so the outer tie rod end will have to be loosened to check the inner one.
Definitely not a standard slab. 2' 6" footer that extends to 4'x4' under each post, the rest is 8" , all steel reinforced. Any lift you buy should have the specs ( blueprint) for a slab. If not contact the manufacture. Different style of lifts will require different applications.
Got a 1998 Lincoln TC trying to order the upper control arm assy (comes with Bushings and the ball Joint already installed) but there is two different options, with or without handling package. Does anyone know the difference or how to tell which one a person might have. Thanks
I can't give you a definite answer, but I 'assume' , that like the earlier models, the suspension upgrade was only for the "L" model. you might get a more definitive answer on some of the Lincoln forums.
@@Chevy-Guy Hey, I'm losing my mind. Your VIN # should have all the information on that vehicle. Most parts shops, and all (Ford/Lincoln)dealers can look it up for you. There might even be a VIN#, ID chart on the internet.
@@warhorse1956 I am assuming the principle will be fairly similar. I am no pro, but I'll use the auto-shop on Fort Campbell. They allow soldiers and disabled veterans to use all auto shop tools, including the raiser and there's one technician assisting. They ask like $3/hour to rent a bay, and the same to keep the car overnight. Won't pay hundreds the chain shops ask for, that's guaranteed. Thanks for your video and help!
@@benbenhomeandlifestyle5122 You should be fine doing it on base with a tech near by to give little advice if you need it. You are correct, the principle is the same. I believe that the C-clip type ball joints all press in from the top, unlike the one I did here.
@@warhorse1956 I'm thinking about buying them from eBay, and maybe those U-bars as well. They are rather expensive at Auto Zone, and about 25 bucks each on eBay. I am not sure if there is a special quality I need to be looking for. Looks to me like once the ball joint is in, it's in. The car doesn't vibrate excessively at all, and although I can feel some light grinding feeling when I steer on the left, I think I'm weeks and even months before the cr is unsafe to drive. That will give me enough time to study your video, get some literature, and I hope to fix it right after Thanksgiving weekend. Looks like a full-day job for someone with little experience, but with the right tools it should greatly help... Thanks for your video well done.
@@benbenhomeandlifestyle5122 MOOG ball joints are still the best bet, don't go for the "white box" crap. If you're getting grinding noise while steering, especially when sitting still, you more then likely have a tie-rod end problem, which is a real common problem on these chassis. You really need to do a proper diagnostic on the front end. Unless the boots are ripped on the ball joints, I'll put my money on the tie rod ends. I have a video on doing tie rod ends as well.
so all ball joints are garbage. u may have bought the last set of og moog ball joints. they break too. broke both fronts in less then 3 years 2500 hd, bought cheap detroit axle ball joints now for 3 years. although i threw some on my other truck and broke one in less then a year. down in the keys. seems like they are hit and miss.
@@fucdalaw1 , that's the unfortunate way this business has always been. You try like hell to keep up with what's quality parts to minimize come backs. this of course isn't good news and hopefully will change in the near future. I'm just glad to be out of it after 40 years in the pits. I do know however that the 'white box' parts are definitely pure garbage and all one can do is hope to get something a little better.
It's sad to see Moog used to be a company that was the best in the business now they're made in China and are junk. I was replacing Moog lower control arms for my cousin every 3 months.
Thank You So Much! This video just saved me soooo much money. After getting a $700 quote for this job, both sides😢, I decided To watch some UA-cam and do some google research. This video was the most detailed and informative video that I came across. So I literally watched it 5-6 times last week. I went Amazon got 2 ball joints, same day delivery on Friday morning. Also went to auto store for press and pickle fork. Started the removal process Saturday morning 7am and by 2:30 pm that same day I was done. And I did it all by hand, no air tools. Pickle fork wasn’t necessary, i used my hammer to knock it a loose from the knuckle
Pretty simple job as long as you follow these directions.
Again, thanks man 😎
You're quite welcome. I'm glad to hear that the video was of help to you.
I didn't know Willie Nelson knew how to work on cars, very informative dude, excellent informative video
Hey thanks for making this video. Have a 96 Town Car that needs new ball joints and this is just what I needed to attack the job. Glad you put the emphasis on respecting that spring.
2003 Town Car here, if you have some feedback on how it went for you, I'll be happy to hear it.
Hi my name is Jack & I enjoyed watching your video
Great video War Horse. My 1994 Lincoln Town Car Cartier has 205K and after some strange tire wear attempting to do the entire front suspension. I’ve had this ride since about 115K and haven’t done much except replaced a broken tie rod end at one time and had the air suspension converted to springs awhile back when the compressor failed. It was a beautiful car when I got it over 10 years ago but after my wife hit a deer awhile back and Nebraska rust got to it not so pretty anymore. It’s been tore apart in the driveway for about 10 months now up on some very sturdy expensive jack stands i purchased. Kind of gave up for awhile after I think I stripped the power steering gear box to pitman arm nut. It’s on there but probably not legit. Everyone thinks I should get rid of it but I’m stubborn. Plus I got about $1000 in new parts I cannot return I got off rockauto. Super hard finding some of the needed parts these days. I seen upper control arm assembly’s for $300 on eBay (if you can even find them no one makes them anymore). So I ended up finding the shafts and burning out the old bushings and carefully pressing out the old sleeves and pushing in new bushings with my 20 ton harbor freight press last summer. Just bought a Harley Electra Glide so I need to get this Lincoln moveable again to access the garage. Not looking forward to doing the lower control arm bushings due to the coil springs (yes I know the danger). But I’m determined again to get this thing back on the road again. Good engine still and tranny rebuilt around 160K. Bad thing is it’s developed some electrical demons and I don’t do electrical expect (battery/alternators change outs) last time I went to start it I heard a fuse blow or something. Probably going to get it put back together and have it towed for a alignment and the electrical demons fixed. I’m sure it will cost the earth.
Good luck with the restoration. A place called, "Lincoln Land" is a good source for parts. Electrical damage while sitting may have been caused by rodents.
Great video you covered all the bases, you are a great teacher. Thanks to you now I know how to replace Ford ball joints.
I used to be a member of the guild of master craftsmen during my early printing days. I'm pretty sure you've accomplished the same merit in your field. Great stuff by a master.
I've got so many certifications that they're in the back of the closet somewhere. At one time I was a Master, 'A', tech. there's nothing above that, tho, my mind is getting slower with age, not to mention my body. Good thing I don't do this for a living anymore. :)
Smear some grease on your spindle steering bump stops, they look dry.
If these bump stops get dry of grease and the steering is cut as sharp as it'll go and you go to back out of a parking spot you might hear a loud popping and screeching sound from the front end on 2002 and older. 03+ got rack and pinion steering.
Great video.
Good idea, I'll give them a lube up next time I get her on the lift. :)
Very helpful information. My XR-7 just lost the bottom ball joint this evening while backing in the drive, so I'm on the business end of this loaded gun. Be getting the parts and the ball joint press, and do the brakes after I'm thru with the repair. Thanks so much for your help.
Just purchased a 99 Crown Vic with 80,000 miles…. Pretty low for a 24 year old car. It still had original ball joints and they were shot. Thanks for the tips, especially the cotter pin hole. Don’t you just love the simplicity of the top ball joint.
I totally enjoyed and learned a lot from you! Thank you for posting this video.
Just to clarify- The Mercury Grand Marquis was discontinued when Ford killed the Mercury brand in 2007. The Crown Vic and Town Car lived on until 2011 when Ford discontinued the Panther platform they were built on.
I had to chuckle when you mentioned the W126 Mercedes. I just brought my '90 300SEL back home last week, after it sat at a friend's house for almost a year. Judging from the extreme negative camber of the right rear wheel, I suspect the trailing arm is bent. Time for a trip to Pick-a-Part. The factory rear suspension is non-adjustable, but an aftermarket company in Australia makes a kit with eccentric adjusters to fully adjust the rear camber. The fact that the previous owners briefly lived in it and loaded it to the gills with their stuff probably didn't do the old factory springs any favors.
Once I've dealt with the damaged suspension and the bad head gasket, I'd like to do the valve body modification where it starts off in first gear rather than second.
I worked for M-B for 18 years as an A, Master tech. If you need some advice, hit me up on Hangouts.
Sounds great!
I was thinking about your rear end wheel chamber angle. The most common problem is the center differential support/mount. A new mount will bring the carrier up, thus bringing the overly negative chamber back into a more acceptable light. Remember that these cars have a built in negative chamber for better cornering.
If that doesn't bring it back to specs, M-B does make different thickness spring pads.
Baring any damage to the control arms, or major spring fatigue, That will get you back to the correct settings. Either way, on a W126 of that age, the diff carrier/mount will need replacing.
Sorry it took so long to get this out to you, at 61 yo, the mind works a bit slower.
Yeah, I was thinking about that. I've been contemplating yanking the diff out and replacing all those just like you said. The car has over 300K miles on it, so all the bushings are probably shot. The prior homeless druggie owners using the car like an RV probably made it worse.
I'm pretty certain that the right rear trailing arm is damaged. The rear passenger door and the section of wheel arch just behind it are completely demolished, and the wheel at that end has far more negative camber than any of the others. It's like a person with a reverse clubbed foot.
My plan is to slowly rebuild that car to be a possible eventual replacement for my well-worn 1995 Lexus LS400. The Lexy is a great car- gave me NO major trouble in ten years of owning it until the transmission failed last year at 132,000 miles and I had it rebuilt. Still runs like a champ, but now the AC compressor is eating itself and the 20 year-old leather interior is disintegrating.
If I have my way, that Benz is getting ALL new bushings, new springs, new Bilstein shocks, new driveshaft couplers, and a custom high-flow exhaust. If I collect all the new parts but end up dumping the car in the meantime, all those goodies will go on the 560SEC I snag instead :) .
I think you'd like the SEC much better, the 2 door 126 body on that model feels more solid for some reason. Only problem with the 5.6 engine is the valve guides and cams going south, and timing chain, tensioner, and guide rails will need a close eye kept on them. Head gaskets, due to lack of coolant changes, also have a fairly high failure rate.
The 126 series also have a good amount of front end wear problems, caster bushings being the top of the list, followed by idler arm bushings and drag links.
M-B's, generally speaking will be in the shop more often then a Lexus would be. But sometimes a man just needs to get that out of his system and drive a Benz.
Usually the boot has a bleed hole for excess grease to come out and that should be facing the inside of the car so that the grease doesn't come out and get on the brake rotor. You failed to mention that you should orientate the boot so that the bleed whole faces inside.
There is no bleed hole on these. And for that matter, I've never seen any on any ball joints, including Mercedes, which I worked for as a master tech (A), for 18 years. I think they might have mentioned it in the thousands of their classes I've attended. But I'll keep an eye out for them in the future. ;)
I am quite surprised that you don't know what it is.
Bout to do this job for a friend, and needed a refresher from when I did it on my ranger. Thank you so much for this very precise video
Moog...is just a name now...like Diehard... unfortunately all manufactured now in China via Chinese manufacturers. But nonetheless, excellent video!
Thank you for the video
Lots of useful tips
I totally dismantled my car after watching this video. I got parts all over the front yard and don't know how to put it back together! ☹
'Super Glue' ... you'll be fine. ;)
great video thanks
looks easy to replace since im in europe many cars are bit complicated to repair
good video i plan to tackle a rear lower ball joint on a 1997 conti with snow on the ground we shall see how that goes
The 97 and newer 2 w.d. f150 is nearly the same setup. They are ball joint eaters to! Upper and lower!
Willie Nelson did a fine job👍
How did you get and what was the cost of buying a outside lift been thinking about this myself but don't know the right direction
I bought this lift 20 years ago when I had my shop. It was around $3500.00. The slab I poured for it here, 16 years ago, cost around $2000.00. Electrical and bolt lags not included. I have no idea what this stuff costs now a days.
Nice work War Horse.
Thank you :)
You are amazing, thank you for the video
Great video
What size is the castle nut on the lower ball joint
I've got a 95 crown Victoria I hope it's the same method, for I'm gonna that very same thing soon, thank u👍👍
Yes, it's the same chassis.
If I found one for super cheap, I wouldn't even mind picking up an early 80s' 380SEC, despite the 3.8 liter engine's dubious reputation. From what I've read, the 3.8's biggest handicap is the weak single-roller timing chain M-B saddled it with. I'm into Detroit muscle, but working on an old Benz doesn't scare me. At the end of the day, it's just a machine like the rest of them. Just give me a good shop manual and I'll yank that front cover off and swap on a double chain set like it's nothing.
I'm not necessarily put off by the 380's lack of power. Some slightly healthier Schrick cams, a custom high-flow exhaust, and the dual snorkel air cleaner off a 5.6 should help that old German boat anchor some. My 4100 lb. 1990 Chevy 1500 longbed has the 160hp / 230 lb. ft. 4.3 liter TBI V6 in it and it moves just fine. It's no hot rod, but it keeps up with traffic.
Ok, lemme give ya a quick lesson on the 3.8's. 1981 to 1983 had a single row timing chain, which had a nasty habit of jumping time , and or breaking, thus bending valves, and at higher RPM damage a piston.
These years had black head bolts, which cant be reused, and will pull the threads out of the block. The conversion includes drilling all 32 (iirc) head bolt holes and helicoiling the block. To do this you need a special plate that bolts to the block to guide the drill bit, then you'll need the proper shanked starter tap and a finish tap.
Now these engines are high silicone and you will probably break a tap off in at least one hole, at which point you'll need to get someone with a laser cutter to remove it. (not cheap). If you do get the job done without any problems and your back is still in fair shape, you need to get all new chrome head bolts. Also to convert to the double row t-chain, you'll need all the gears, rails, tensioner, and chain.
I've done more of these then I care to remember. 84-85, 3.8's are fine, as they have the conversion already done at the factory.
Personally I would stay away from all the 3.8's, they also had a problem with valve guides getting loose in the head.
Wow... what a clusterfuck! It sounds like M-B really screwed the pooch with that one. I guess it's only worth it if you get the car itself for close to nothing.
Odd thing I've noticed. I still see a good number of 380-series W126 coupes and R107 SLs around, but the W126 sedans with that motor have all but vanished. I'm assuming it's because 380SEC / SL owners are willing to tolerate that engine's shortcomings due to the minor collectible status of their cars, whereas the sedans are more generic and therefore disposable.
The SL's will always be in demand, tho with a huge upkeep cost, regardless of year. If you really wanted a 107 SL, i would stick to the 4.5 (450) or the 3.5, tho the latter was a grey market car, and not really a good investment. Those at least had the cast iron block with the good rails and double row T-Chain.
The last few years had a good CIS fuel injection system, the earlier ones had the L Jetronic one, which was Ok, except for the wiring harness falling apart.
I liked the W113 SL's (230-250-280), much more for looks and dependability, but the price for those went through the roof a long time ago.
Hey Christopher O, you might get a kick out of this project video I did a few years ago, tho the actual build was done many years before the video. Check out part 2 as well.
ua-cam.com/video/Nm0XeP_mQNY/v-deo.html
I have a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8 , is this pretty close to what I can expect doing this shit? Ive never done this , lower ball joint broke on me today got it towed to my back yard , Im renting and not supposed to work on anything here either - no pressure
I believe it's about the same, but the last Mark I worked on was a Mark 4, which is a different animal altogether. This is at best a level "B" tech, job. if you've never done a job like this, think twice before you start in. Either way, be careful and good luck.
hi.good job.i gotta do my 93 Mark Viii.making that noise when i turn the wheel.peace
Make sure to take a hard look at the tie-rod ends, they will make an awful sound too, and have a high failure rate on Lincolns. i believe the Mark 8 has a rack and pinion steering, so the outer tie rod end will have to be loosened to check the inner one.
Thank u for your video
"If you put it in crooked then you're kinda fucked"
Dose the lower ballpoint have to be pressed in if so what dose it get pressed in to
Please watch the entire video, and judging by your question, do not attempt this job.
Hi! Is this the same process for all 1997 Lincolns? I have a 1997 Town Car.
Yes
I have a question on your concrete pad for your lift did you have to put footings or is that a standard 4 inch thick pad or did you go sticker
Definitely not a standard slab. 2' 6" footer that extends to 4'x4' under each post, the rest is 8" , all steel reinforced. Any lift you buy should have the specs ( blueprint) for a slab. If not contact the manufacture. Different style of lifts will require different applications.
@@warhorse1956 Thamks for the info
Thank u
Got a 1998 Lincoln TC trying to order the upper control arm assy (comes with Bushings and the ball Joint already installed) but there is two different options, with or without handling package. Does anyone know the difference or how to tell which one a person might have. Thanks
I can't give you a definite answer, but I 'assume' , that like the earlier models, the suspension upgrade was only for the "L" model. you might get a more definitive answer on some of the Lincoln forums.
@@warhorse1956 Hey Thanks I appreciate the response. Ill dig around for some Lincoln forums. Good Idea.
@@Chevy-Guy Hey, I'm losing my mind. Your VIN # should have all the information on that vehicle. Most parts shops, and all (Ford/Lincoln)dealers can look it up for you. There might even be a VIN#, ID chart on the internet.
@@warhorse1956 Thanks again War Horse, Evidently Moog is capable of running the VIN also so im going to call them today. Appreciate the direction.
Is it the same for a 2003 TC?
That one is different. C-clip on the ball joint.
@@warhorse1956 I am assuming the principle will be fairly similar. I am no pro, but I'll use the auto-shop on Fort Campbell. They allow soldiers and disabled veterans to use all auto shop tools, including the raiser and there's one technician assisting.
They ask like $3/hour to rent a bay, and the same to keep the car overnight.
Won't pay hundreds the chain shops ask for, that's guaranteed.
Thanks for your video and help!
@@benbenhomeandlifestyle5122 You should be fine doing it on base with a tech near by to give little advice if you need it. You are correct, the principle is the same. I believe that the C-clip type ball joints all press in from the top, unlike the one I did here.
@@warhorse1956 I'm thinking about buying them from eBay, and maybe those U-bars as well.
They are rather expensive at Auto Zone, and about 25 bucks each on eBay. I am not sure if there is a special quality I need to be looking for. Looks to me like once the ball joint is in, it's in.
The car doesn't vibrate excessively at all, and although I can feel some light grinding feeling when I steer on the left, I think I'm weeks and even months before the cr is unsafe to drive. That will give me enough time to study your video, get some literature, and I hope to fix it right after Thanksgiving weekend.
Looks like a full-day job for someone with little experience, but with the right tools it should greatly help...
Thanks for your video well done.
@@benbenhomeandlifestyle5122 MOOG ball joints are still the best bet, don't go for the "white box" crap. If you're getting grinding noise while steering, especially when sitting still, you more then likely have a tie-rod end problem, which is a real common problem on these chassis. You really need to do a proper diagnostic on the front end. Unless the boots are ripped on the ball joints, I'll put my money on the tie rod ends.
I have a video on doing tie rod ends as well.
moog will work
moog are trash these days too unfortunately.
Do you know of anything better? I've been out of the business for some time, so I'm not up on the latest parts quality any more.
War Horse chinese owns shares in moog now. my boy said honestly theres no american steel in america anymore. its all recycled steel.
so all ball joints are garbage. u may have bought the last set of og moog ball joints. they break too. broke both fronts in less then 3 years 2500 hd, bought cheap detroit axle ball joints now for 3 years. although i threw some on my other truck and broke one in less then a year. down in the keys. seems like they are hit and miss.
@@fucdalaw1 , that's the unfortunate way this business has always been. You try like hell to keep up with what's quality parts to minimize come backs. this of course isn't good news and hopefully will change in the near future. I'm just glad to be out of it after 40 years in the pits. I do know however that the 'white box' parts are definitely pure garbage and all one can do is hope to get something a little better.
It's sad to see Moog used to be a company that was the best in the business now they're made in China and are junk. I was replacing Moog lower control arms for my cousin every 3 months.
Unfinished Business
@35:05 lol