I've done this many times on various Toyotas, Hondas, and others. I used my infrared thermometer to get the fluid temp. I've found the surface temp of the pan runs about 5 degrees cooler than the fluid in the trans. I just got a new scan tool that can read all sorts of live data including trans temp. Now I get to determine the exact difference between the pan temp, and the actual fluid temp. The first time I did this I compared the pan surface temp to the temp of the fluid running out of the overflow. That's how I came up with 5 degrees. I do a drain and fill on every car in my family's fleet every spring. Full exchange on used cars with unknown histories.
Yes, on the 19 Corrola, and 17 Civic, which have CVTs. Also on our 19 Tacoma, 02 4runner, and 98 CRV which all do about 15,000 a year. I have a garage so it's easy. The cost is nothing compared to replacing a trans. @@efil4kizum
@21jimmyo I actually never do fluid renewals by time, only mileage. But again, you can't go wrong with your methodology of doing maintenance. It is better to be over-maintaned than under-maintained.
Have done this on my 97 Land Cruiser with 350k miles. The only additional step was to move through the gears PRND21, and back to park for every quart. This exercises the valve body and clutches.
Scanguage 3 automatically detected both of my tranny fluid temp sensors and then makes it something I can easily monitor when driving and towing on my 1st gen Tundra. I invested in this after your last video about tf exchange. Thanks for continuing to educate us on what you have learned.
Gotta say? I dig the stash Tim! I have ben binge watching everything i can on your channel since i did my timing belt on my 3rd gen last week and it broke a cam bolt off.. dreaded SLUDGE monster syndrome and the driver cam froze right up on the 3.4 in my Runner.. So im going to swap a motor out soon... Thanks for all you do man.. you rule!
I did our first gen Tacoma twice and my 7th gen Camry once. I always ran engine until fluid starts to sputter then shut off engine to refill.That's about 3 quarts. They also sell an adapter that screws into fill plug so you only need to connect once to do the entire job.
Yeah, that worries me because the sputtering is air entering the pump because it's running dry. That's why I like only moving 1 quart at a time. Do you have a link to that adapter you mentioned?
Nice tutorial with great explanation and great video footage. High five to the camera person. I never changed the transmission fluids at the required intervals (well according to Toyota it never needs changing) and now have 104k miles on the Sequoia so I am afraid to remove and replace all the fluids because of potential problems so I am just doing the drain and fill method at this point. I removed and replaced 4-1/4 quarts which is a 1/3 of the total capacity. I will do this at regular intervals from now on.
You're smart to stat servicing your fluid. What you have to know is there is no automotive fluid in existence that lasts forever. That was the stupidest thing Toyota has ever said. All fluids break down and need to be renewed.
Very detailed and clear, although 1 quart at a time cycle seems over cautious, you can overfill the transmission to 5-6 quarts initally without harm and therefore drain 3-4 quarts each time to reduce your start drain stop fill cycles but never run dry. Over cautious on the fluid but no torque wrench on the pan plug? That said, thanks for clearly showing the hose disconnect sequence at the cooler including the error, very clear and well lit for visibility.
@js-wq6zy Now, I have to ask. How do you know you can overfill an automatic transmission 5-6 quarts without issue? We're you one of the engineers who built the Aisin transmission? I would never run a transmission that overfilled. Maybe because the transmission is cold, you can get away with it, but if the fluid got hot, it would be puking out the breather at the top. As for the torque value for a drain plug, this is the difference between people who know how to tighten fasteners without relying on a torque value and those that use a torque wrench as a crutch because they don't trust themselves to properly tighten anything without one. I've tightened hundreds of drain plugs without a torque wrench and have never stripped one and have never had one fall out. Anyway, I'm glad our video helped you out.
Holy hell I can't believe how many times you turned the truck on and off doing a million extra steps. Just use a laser thermometer until it dribbles. Easy. Being over or under by a few ounces doesn't hurt anything, especially if you're running an external cooler where your temps to stay very stable. The factory often "underfills" by about 1/3 quart without problems.
Well, we're trying to show people the correct way based on what we learned from the Toyota factory service manual. Is a laser thermometer exactly accurate for this procedure? Not really, but I will say it's probably close enough. Anyway, people can choose the way they want to do it. Doing it our way following the FSM instructions is the safest way, but I agree that being a little under-filled or overfilled isn't a huge deal.
There is a reason why your username is "notsure" thats because when you half @*$ your mechanical work/fluid changes your vehicle goes to $#¡+ and your so pùckìng stoooo-pud you're "notsure" what went wrong.. news flash gump....... its because you cut corners and hurry through your work. A pure pile of trash. Keep your b¡+ćh boy comments to yourself until you are "sure"
Another very interesting and informative video..😊 would like to do a similar transmission fluid flush on my 2008 FJ and 2014 Tacoma..Do you have a video on transmission fluid replacement for either of these vehicles?
Yes, we have a video for the A750F transmission, which is what I believe you have in your 2008 FJ. ua-cam.com/video/gx5dU3UVcRs/v-deo.htmlsi=jIVsI1_l3sY5NX-K
Thank you for the reply. I have a 5th Gen 4runner that uses the pre diluted pink super long life coolant. What do you think about using the red long long life concentrate instead of the pink stuff. I would like to dilute my own and in the process save money.
@@cindy_lewis Well, Toyota recommends the pink 50/50 for your rig. Could you run the red concentrate and dilute it yourself? I would imagine it would be ok, but if it were me, I'd just run the pink coolant.
Timmy, another great video! I am currently doing all maintenance on my two Toyotas (19 Tundra & 10 Sequoia) and was just about to begin the Transmission Fluid drain and fill procedure. It's been a while since I last performed this task, so I watched your video and revisited my notes from years ago. Something interesting I found is that the manual you showed in the video states the transmission temperature needs to be between 97 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit, but the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB - TC009-07) specifies the range as 115 to 133 degrees Fahrenheit. I followed the TSB value over six years ago when I last performed this procedure, but I would like to confirm the correct temperature requirement. Maybe the TSB wasn’t for the 5.7l . I plan to aim for 115 degrees Fahrenheit to align with both standards. Unfortunately, I am unable to share an image of the TSB to illustrate further. Thank you for taking my questions and for all the informative videos you provide. Clay
@@TimmyTheToolman I am glad I paid attention to the temperature in your video; otherwise, I would have used the wrong valve from that 2007 bulletin. Unlike last time I performed this check where I used the jumper method, I can now read the A/T Temp with my scanner, so knowing the correct temp is important. Thanks again,
An observation as you tried to determine wiich hose was the send and return at the transmission cooler. I think the pink or red mark was hot, hence the send, and the blue mark was cold/cool or return.
That's a good observation, and I saw that as well, but what was interesting is that the infrared thermometer didn't confirm that the one that was labeled red was the send line. The blue line showed hotter, which was weird.
You certainly can. You'll only be exchanging approximately 1/3 of the system capacity. If you want to do it this way, I recommend following up with two more drain and refills spread out, say 5,000 miles each or just time it with you next two engine oil changes. After the 3rd drain snd refill, your fluid will be in good shape. After that, I recommend doing a drain and refill every other engine oil change or approximately every 10,000 miles. Maintaining the fluid is the best way to give your transmission a long happy life.
I have a 2007 Tundra that has 175,000 mile on it. i do not know if the transmission fluid has ever been change so i am about to try you 1 in 1 out method. my only quiestion is should i had in any sort of transmission additive or not (because of the high milage)
You can just do a drain and refill, but that is only exchanging 1/3 of the system capacity. If you do drain and refills often enough, it's a good way to keep your fluid in good shape.
Great detailed video Could you at some point in the future do the pan temperature method and compare to how close it comes to live date stream method? I have also heard of the 5 degree difference method ( pan outside temp is about 5 degree cooler than fluid temp) I love your channel and the detailed explanation Thanks
Yeah, we could probably try that and see what the scan gauge shows the temperature compared to an infrared thermometer pointed at the pan. If we do it, I'll probably put it in a pinned comment (1st comment you see).
ok. serious question here. I did this for my 1st Gen 2006 and ran into about the same issue. So.. when i drained mine and did a refill, i only drained about 3qts. I added back 3 qts and when truck was at operating temps i check the overflow and nothing was coming out. kept the truck running and added an additional two qts and nothing came out. I couldn't understand what was going on. As soon as i cut the truck off, fluid started pouring out of my over flow??? And guess what. the two extra qts i added came right back out. So... Which is right? Check overflow while its running or when it hits operating temps shut the truck off? Weird that when i shut it off, the two additional qts i added came back out.
Automatic transmission fluid needs to be checked with the engine running. It's never checked with the engine off. It sounds like to me your transmission was severely under-filled. If you were on level ground, the transmission fluid was at the correct temperature and fluid wasn't coming out the overflow, you were more than 2 quarts down. When you shut off the engine, some of the fluid that was circulating through the trans drains back into the pan. That's normal.
Could you have feed fresh oil from the other cooler hose (marked pink) via a funnel that can hold 10 quarts, with the engine running, the old fluid drains while the new fluid would be sucked in at the same rate. It would all happen quick and having the 2nd person there to shut off the engine is key.
I've heard of guys doing this but I've never tried it myself. I've never tried it because the method you described doesn't make sense to me. There is a fluid pump in the transmission creating positive pressure moving the fluid from the transmission, to the cooler and back. The fluid is being sucked in via the transmission pan, but does that suction transfer all the way to the return line on the trans cooler? Is the return line really under suction when the trans is running? I don't know and this is why I never tried the method you described. If you give it a shot, let me know how it works out.
@@TimmyTheToolman As I was typing that previous comment I was thinking wouldn't it be nice to have a diagram schematic of how the oil circulates though the transmission. I would think that the return hose goes back to the oil pan but that would have to be confirmed first. I've only performed this once when I was exchanging power steering fluid, in one swoop old oil was running out while the new went in.
Great video. I need to do this flush on my HDJ81. Probably not as involved though. I just need to find the tranny cooler (maybe on the bottom of the engine coolant radiator) and get the correct hoses. Thank you for posting.
Thanks and you're very welcome. Yeah, most trans coolers are in the bottom of the radiator. Usually the infrared temperature gun works well to figure out which line is the send line and which is the return. I still don't understand why it didn't work in the this video. Pretty odd. The first trans flush we ever did was a long time ago on a 3rd Gen 4runner with the trans cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Happy Wrenching! ua-cam.com/video/RumPXivBlk8/v-deo.htmlsi=p5gQ9d5LOjSrxZRf
The transmission filters in these transmissions are a fine metal strainer. Can they get clogged up some? Yes, they can. The fluid was black and could leave deposits in the filter media. For a higher mileage vehicle with an unknown service history, it's not a bad idea to drop the pan and replace the filter. My brother's truck just has a little over 100k miles. It's my educated guess the filter is still mostly unclogged.
@TimmyTheToolman My 2016 4Runner 82K on the clock Fluid/Filter change at 30K and 60K. I'm all about aggressive preventative maintenance. Cheaper up-front and lots of trouble free miles. Tim, thank you for your feed back. Do you do outside work? I have a few projects planned as the mileage approaches. Cheers, Mate.
@jackwalsh1468 Yeah, you can't go wrong with what you're doing. We do jobs for people when it means we get a new video to share on our channel. It depends on what you need done.
@@TimmyTheToolmanNo problem. Love your videos! I’ve now flushed every fluid on my 05 Tundra with the help of your videos. Keep it up! 👍 You should do a 2UZ-FE coolant change video. And show the 2 drains in the block.
@@MyFutt I actually show the two block drains in our 2UZ Stater Replacement video. At first I thought there was just one block drain, but later on I found the other one. ua-cam.com/video/dXpK5YG7-A8/v-deo.htmlsi=0xlGZBvxcJ8E7PvS
Once you know how to do the fluid check procedure, it's pretty straightforward. It's just easier with a dipstick because you don't have to go on your back under the vehicle. Once you've figured out how you're gonna check the fluid temperature, it's not hard.
Good try, but the fact that you warmed up the engine negates almost everything else as both the dirty & clean fluids should be at SAME temperature when draining & replacing (which is MOST LIKELY the reason that you ran our of fluid / miscalculated).. so there is that. ALSO, I am 99% sure that if you look in your factory service manual again, it will tell you to (AFTER the fluid leveling procedure) add 200ML of fluid on top of the leveled fluid prior to sealing up the trans (which you did not do).
I don't fully understand your point. The temperature of the fluid at the time of the exchange doesn't matter. The new fluid is going into the pan. The pump pulls the fluid into the valve body and is dispersed. The color before and after the flush does not lie. It was black at the beginning, and now it's pink/red in color. So, I'm going to disagree with your assessment of our method. Is our method a perfect exchange? No, it isn't. But after running 12 quarts through with our method, the fluid is dramatically cleaner than before.
if it hasn't been changed as often as needed, replacing all the fluid is not a good idea, as the dirty fluid is what's keeping the clutch packs from slipping, because of the debris the causes friction. once the friction is removed, the worn out clutches will slip.
What you said is something I have subscribed to as well in the past. Another theory is that an abused transmission will have sludge deposits built up inside of it. New ATF has excellent detergent qualities. The new ATF will work on the sludge deposits, freeing them to flow through the system. These deposits can lodge in small fluid passageways inside the valve body, starving areas of the transmission of lubrication. This is the theory I have shifted to. With these two theories in my mind, I have now done fluid exchanges on two auto transmissions that were clearly abused with positive results. A decent percentage of people believe it's never a bad idea to service your transmission, but I do believe their is some potential risk like you mentioned.
I've done this many times on various Toyotas, Hondas, and others. I used my infrared thermometer to get the fluid temp. I've found the surface temp of the pan runs about 5 degrees cooler than the fluid in the trans. I just got a new scan tool that can read all sorts of live data including trans temp. Now I get to determine the exact difference between the pan temp, and the actual fluid temp. The first time I did this I compared the pan surface temp to the temp of the fluid running out of the overflow. That's how I came up with 5 degrees. I do a drain and fill on every car in my family's fleet every spring. Full exchange on used cars with unknown histories.
Good Job! I'm curious to know what the difference is between the pan temp and the temp reported via the computer. I think I'll do this as well.
I'm curious to know too. I can hardly wait for spring to do the next trans fluid change. You guys do top notch work! Thanks!@@TimmyTheToolman
Drain and fill every spring regardless of miles driven?
Yes, on the 19 Corrola, and 17 Civic, which have CVTs. Also on our 19 Tacoma, 02 4runner, and 98 CRV which all do about 15,000 a year. I have a garage so it's easy. The cost is nothing compared to replacing a trans. @@efil4kizum
@21jimmyo I actually never do fluid renewals by time, only mileage. But again, you can't go wrong with your methodology of doing maintenance. It is better to be over-maintaned than under-maintained.
Your videos are just so helpful! I regularly go back and watch videos from several years ago. Thanks for what you guys do!
You're very welcome. Thanks for commenting.
Have done this on my 97 Land Cruiser with 350k miles. The only additional step was to move through the gears PRND21, and back to park for every quart. This exercises the valve body and clutches.
Thanks for the tip.
Did you leave the fill plug out while adding the 1 quart increments, or did you reinstall the fill plug each quart added?
@@cindy_lewis with this model, you fill through the dipstick tube. It’s a bit slow, but a long narrow funnel lets you get it done.
This one, like my 5th Gen 4runner fills on the side of the transmission.
Look around the 32:00 minute mark and he shows refitting the fill plug.
Scanguage 3 automatically detected both of my tranny fluid temp sensors and then makes it something I can easily monitor when driving and towing on my 1st gen Tundra. I invested in this after your last video about tf exchange. Thanks for continuing to educate us on what you have learned.
That's good to know. I didn't even know there was a Scan Gauge 3 on the market.
Thanks for the info and you're very welcome!
Gotta say? I dig the stash Tim! I have ben binge watching everything i can on your channel since i did my timing belt on my 3rd gen last week and it broke a cam bolt off.. dreaded SLUDGE monster syndrome and the driver cam froze right up on the 3.4 in my Runner.. So im going to swap a motor out soon... Thanks for all you do man.. you rule!
Thanks Dylan. Like usual, I got tired of the stash and it's gone already.
Good luck with the engine swap. Happy Wrenching!
I did our first gen Tacoma twice and my 7th gen Camry once. I always ran engine until fluid starts to sputter then shut off engine to refill.That's about 3 quarts. They also sell an adapter that screws into fill plug so you only need to connect once to do the entire job.
Yeah, that worries me because the sputtering is air entering the pump because it's running dry. That's why I like only moving 1 quart at a time. Do you have a link to that adapter you mentioned?
Nice tutorial with great explanation and great video footage. High five to the camera person. I never changed the transmission fluids at the required intervals (well according to Toyota it never needs changing) and now have 104k miles on the Sequoia so I am afraid to remove and replace all the fluids because of potential problems so I am just doing the drain and fill method at this point. I removed and replaced 4-1/4 quarts which is a 1/3 of the total capacity. I will do this at regular intervals from now on.
You're smart to stat servicing your fluid. What you have to know is there is no automotive fluid in existence that lasts forever. That was the stupidest thing Toyota has ever said. All fluids break down and need to be renewed.
@@TimmyTheToolman Agree. I've changed all the fluids so far, except the power steering fluid. That is on the list.
Very detailed and clear, although 1 quart at a time cycle seems over cautious, you can overfill the transmission to 5-6 quarts initally without harm and therefore drain 3-4 quarts each time to reduce your start drain stop fill cycles but never run dry. Over cautious on the fluid but no torque wrench on the pan plug? That said, thanks for clearly showing the hose disconnect sequence at the cooler including the error, very clear and well lit for visibility.
@js-wq6zy Now, I have to ask. How do you know you can overfill an automatic transmission 5-6 quarts without issue? We're you one of the engineers who built the Aisin transmission? I would never run a transmission that overfilled. Maybe because the transmission is cold, you can get away with it, but if the fluid got hot, it would be puking out the breather at the top.
As for the torque value for a drain plug, this is the difference between people who know how to tighten fasteners without relying on a torque value and those that use a torque wrench as a crutch because they don't trust themselves to properly tighten anything without one. I've tightened hundreds of drain plugs without a torque wrench and have never stripped one and have never had one fall out.
Anyway, I'm glad our video helped you out.
Holy hell I can't believe how many times you turned the truck on and off doing a million extra steps. Just use a laser thermometer until it dribbles. Easy. Being over or under by a few ounces doesn't hurt anything, especially if you're running an external cooler where your temps to stay very stable. The factory often "underfills" by about 1/3 quart without problems.
Well, we're trying to show people the correct way based on what we learned from the Toyota factory service manual. Is a laser thermometer exactly accurate for this procedure? Not really, but I will say it's probably close enough. Anyway, people can choose the way they want to do it. Doing it our way following the FSM instructions is the safest way, but I agree that being a little under-filled or overfilled isn't a huge deal.
There is a reason why your username is "notsure" thats because when you half @*$ your mechanical work/fluid changes your vehicle goes to $#¡+ and your so pùckìng stoooo-pud you're "notsure" what went wrong.. news flash gump....... its because you cut corners and hurry through your work. A pure pile of trash. Keep your b¡+ćh boy comments to yourself until you are "sure"
Another very interesting and informative video..😊 would like to do a similar transmission fluid flush on my 2008 FJ and 2014 Tacoma..Do you have a video on transmission fluid replacement for either of these vehicles?
Yes, we have a video for the A750F transmission, which is what I believe you have in your 2008 FJ. ua-cam.com/video/gx5dU3UVcRs/v-deo.htmlsi=jIVsI1_l3sY5NX-K
Did you leave the fill plug out while adding the 1 quart increments, or did you reinstall the fill plug each quart added?
I reinstalled the fill plug hand tight each time.
Thank you for the reply.
I have a 5th Gen 4runner that uses the pre diluted pink super long life coolant.
What do you think about using the red long long life concentrate instead of the pink stuff. I would like to dilute my own and in the process save money.
@@cindy_lewis Well, Toyota recommends the pink 50/50 for your rig. Could you run the red concentrate and dilute it yourself? I would imagine it would be ok, but if it were me, I'd just run the pink coolant.
Looks good thanks, I've done the A750F before but not this model.
It's pretty much identical other than the tow package step with the thermostat.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! At least it has a dipstick not that stupid level check process!!
@@Me-zo8yc Yeah, the sealed transmissions weren't a good idea.
@@TimmyTheToolman They seem pretty reliable to be fair, it's just the sort of thing I would expect from BMW not Toyota! 😆
@@Me-zo8yc They are made well. It's just that the lack of a dipstick makes the fluid level procedure more of a hassle.
Timmy, another great video! I am currently doing all maintenance on my two Toyotas (19 Tundra & 10 Sequoia) and was just about to begin the Transmission Fluid drain and fill procedure. It's been a while since I last performed this task, so I watched your video and revisited my notes from years ago.
Something interesting I found is that the manual you showed in the video states the transmission temperature needs to be between 97 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit, but the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB - TC009-07) specifies the range as 115 to 133 degrees Fahrenheit. I followed the TSB value over six years ago when I last performed this procedure, but I would like to confirm the correct temperature requirement. Maybe the TSB wasn’t for the 5.7l .
I plan to aim for 115 degrees Fahrenheit to align with both standards. Unfortunately, I am unable to share an image of the TSB to illustrate further. Thank you for taking my questions and for all the informative videos you provide. Clay
This Tundra has the 4.7L engine. I've never seen that TSB. The information I got was straight from Toyota via their Tech Info website.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am glad I paid attention to the temperature in your video; otherwise, I would have used the wrong valve from that 2007 bulletin. Unlike last time I performed this check where I used the jumper method, I can now read the A/T Temp with my scanner, so knowing the correct temp is important. Thanks again,
@@claysmith428 You're welcome.
An observation as you tried to determine wiich hose was the send and return at the transmission cooler. I think the pink or red mark was hot, hence the send, and the blue mark was cold/cool or return.
That's a good observation, and I saw that as well, but what was interesting is that the infrared thermometer didn't confirm that the one that was labeled red was the send line. The blue line showed hotter, which was weird.
You do and excellent job of explaining what your doing and why. Very helpful!
Thanks David. I'm glad you found our video helpful.
How is the transmission holding up? Also, it looks like the antifreeze needs to be changed too.
It's holding up fine.
@@TimmyTheToolman Cool
That wasn't ATF coming out, that was sharpie ink 😂😂 Pretty clean truck otherwise for 17 years
Yeah, that ATF hadn't been renewed in a long time.
Can I just drain and fill? Instead of completely flushing fluid?
You certainly can. You'll only be exchanging approximately 1/3 of the system capacity. If you want to do it this way, I recommend following up with two more drain and refills spread out, say 5,000 miles each or just time it with you next two engine oil changes. After the 3rd drain snd refill, your fluid will be in good shape. After that, I recommend doing a drain and refill every other engine oil change or approximately every 10,000 miles. Maintaining the fluid is the best way to give your transmission a long happy life.
@@TimmyTheToolman You're the man.
Lol that F bomb at 30:41
You caught that. Yeah, it was frustrating to have to drive to Toyota to get more fluid.
@@TimmyTheToolmanat least they were open!
@@brianmurphy7536 Yep, and they had some WS ATF in stock.
I have a 2007 Tundra that has 175,000 mile on it. i do not know if the transmission fluid has ever been change so i am about to try you 1 in 1 out method. my only quiestion is should i had in any sort of transmission additive or not (because of the high milage)
@@dewaynefinney7200 You don't need an additive.
Another bad ass video!!! 🫡
Thanks. We appreciate it!
Is it possible to just drain the pain and feel it to the check plug and call it good?
You can just do a drain and refill, but that is only exchanging 1/3 of the system capacity. If you do drain and refills often enough, it's a good way to keep your fluid in good shape.
Nice job. Like always
Thanks Arin!
Great detailed video
Could you at some point in the future do the pan temperature method and compare to how close it comes to live date stream method?
I have also heard of the 5 degree difference method ( pan outside temp is about 5 degree cooler than fluid temp)
I love your channel and the detailed explanation
Thanks
Yeah, we could probably try that and see what the scan gauge shows the temperature compared to an infrared thermometer pointed at the pan. If we do it, I'll probably put it in a pinned comment (1st comment you see).
ok. serious question here. I did this for my 1st Gen 2006 and ran into about the same issue. So.. when i drained mine and did a refill, i only drained about 3qts. I added back 3 qts and when truck was at operating temps i check the overflow and nothing was coming out. kept the truck running and added an additional two qts and nothing came out. I couldn't understand what was going on. As soon as i cut the truck off, fluid started pouring out of my over flow??? And guess what. the two extra qts i added came right back out. So... Which is right? Check overflow while its running or when it hits operating temps shut the truck off? Weird that when i shut it off, the two additional qts i added came back out.
Automatic transmission fluid needs to be checked with the engine running. It's never checked with the engine off. It sounds like to me your transmission was severely under-filled. If you were on level ground, the transmission fluid was at the correct temperature and fluid wasn't coming out the overflow, you were more than 2 quarts down. When you shut off the engine, some of the fluid that was circulating through the trans drains back into the pan. That's normal.
Could you have feed fresh oil from the other cooler hose (marked pink) via a funnel that can hold 10 quarts, with the engine running, the old fluid drains while the new fluid would be sucked in at the same rate. It would all happen quick and having the 2nd person there to shut off the engine is key.
I've heard of guys doing this but I've never tried it myself. I've never tried it because the method you described doesn't make sense to me. There is a fluid pump in the transmission creating positive pressure moving the fluid from the transmission, to the cooler and back. The fluid is being sucked in via the transmission pan, but does that suction transfer all the way to the return line on the trans cooler? Is the return line really under suction when the trans is running? I don't know and this is why I never tried the method you described. If you give it a shot, let me know how it works out.
@@TimmyTheToolman As I was typing that previous comment I was thinking wouldn't it be nice to have a diagram schematic of how the oil circulates though the transmission. I would think that the return hose goes back to the oil pan but that would have to be confirmed first. I've only performed this once when I was exchanging power steering fluid, in one swoop old oil was running out while the new went in.
@@jkucukov People say it works, so I'm assuming a vacuum is created on the return hose. Maybe I'll try it one day.
Great video. I need to do this flush on my HDJ81. Probably not as involved though. I just need to find the tranny cooler (maybe on the bottom of the engine coolant radiator) and get the correct hoses. Thank you for posting.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Yeah, most trans coolers are in the bottom of the radiator. Usually the infrared temperature gun works well to figure out which line is the send line and which is the return. I still don't understand why it didn't work in the this video. Pretty odd. The first trans flush we ever did was a long time ago on a 3rd Gen 4runner with the trans cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Happy Wrenching! ua-cam.com/video/RumPXivBlk8/v-deo.htmlsi=p5gQ9d5LOjSrxZRf
Ill be doing this to a ab60f trans when the weather gets better.
Well Nathan, good luck with the job when the weather warms up.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks keep up the great videos
@@nathanshaffer5105 We will Nathan!
A new transmission filter??
The transmission filters in these transmissions are a fine metal strainer. Can they get clogged up some? Yes, they can. The fluid was black and could leave deposits in the filter media. For a higher mileage vehicle with an unknown service history, it's not a bad idea to drop the pan and replace the filter. My brother's truck just has a little over 100k miles. It's my educated guess the filter is still mostly unclogged.
@TimmyTheToolman My 2016 4Runner 82K on the clock
Fluid/Filter change at 30K and 60K.
I'm all about aggressive preventative maintenance. Cheaper up-front and lots of trouble free miles.
Tim, thank you for your feed back.
Do you do outside work?
I have a few projects planned as the mileage approaches. Cheers, Mate.
@jackwalsh1468 Yeah, you can't go wrong with what you're doing.
We do jobs for people when it means we get a new video to share on our channel. It depends on what you need done.
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!!
Gen 2 Tundra never had an A340E
You're right. I got the title wrong. It's the A750E. The 3rd Gen 4runners had the A340E. Thanks for catching that mistake.
@@TimmyTheToolmanNo problem. Love your videos! I’ve now flushed every fluid on my 05 Tundra with the help of your videos. Keep it up! 👍
You should do a 2UZ-FE coolant change video. And show the 2 drains in the block.
@@MyFutt I actually show the two block drains in our 2UZ Stater Replacement video. At first I thought there was just one block drain, but later on I found the other one. ua-cam.com/video/dXpK5YG7-A8/v-deo.htmlsi=0xlGZBvxcJ8E7PvS
Can you confirm that Toyota overfilled these transmission .5 - 1 qt from factory?
I can not confirm that. You're the first person I've heard this from.
God save the manual transmission 😮 this looks to be a major hassle
Once you know how to do the fluid check procedure, it's pretty straightforward. It's just easier with a dipstick because you don't have to go on your back under the vehicle. Once you've figured out how you're gonna check the fluid temperature, it's not hard.
Way easier than a complicated dip stick......
@@markfrombriz Yep, those dipsticks are super complicated.
Good try, but the fact that you warmed up the engine negates almost everything else as both the dirty & clean fluids should be at SAME temperature when draining & replacing (which is MOST LIKELY the reason that you ran our of fluid / miscalculated).. so there is that. ALSO, I am 99% sure that if you look in your factory service manual again, it will tell you to (AFTER the fluid leveling procedure) add 200ML of fluid on top of the leveled fluid prior to sealing up the trans (which you did not do).
I don't fully understand your point. The temperature of the fluid at the time of the exchange doesn't matter. The new fluid is going into the pan. The pump pulls the fluid into the valve body and is dispersed. The color before and after the flush does not lie. It was black at the beginning, and now it's pink/red in color. So, I'm going to disagree with your assessment of our method. Is our method a perfect exchange? No, it isn't. But after running 12 quarts through with our method, the fluid is dramatically cleaner than before.
if it hasn't been changed as often as needed, replacing all the fluid is not a good idea, as the dirty fluid is what's keeping the clutch packs from slipping, because of the debris the causes friction. once the friction is removed, the worn out clutches will slip.
What you said is something I have subscribed to as well in the past.
Another theory is that an abused transmission will have sludge deposits built up inside of it. New ATF has excellent detergent qualities. The new ATF will work on the sludge deposits, freeing them to flow through the system. These deposits can lodge in small fluid passageways inside the valve body, starving areas of the transmission of lubrication. This is the theory I have shifted to.
With these two theories in my mind, I have now done fluid exchanges on two auto transmissions that were clearly abused with positive results. A decent percentage of people believe it's never a bad idea to service your transmission, but I do believe their is some potential risk like you mentioned.