I rode my first bike at the age of 20 and it was a scooter, I felt I had a natural instinct for trail braking. But one day, when my brother was riding behind me, he advised me that I was too ameture for trail braking. I lost my courage after that and sometimes it was hard to get the confidence to corner. Thanks to you, I finally know how to get back my confidence for trail braking
For me, trail braking was for sure the biggest confidence improvement I had through me years of biking, made me feel much safer. It increased the enjoyment of rising immensely, both on road and on track.
Learned to ride on a dirt bike on rough mountain tracks, so we naturally drifted into corners and got comfortable with the bike moving around under us. Most riders don’t learn in the dirt so really don’t learn to ride properly …
Great video, spreading the gospel! 🙏 Trailbraking completely changend my riding a few years back! Since then, I try to get it into everybody's head, like some sort of annoying mansplainer. But I think it's just so worth it.😅 I truly believe it's just much safer, and also makes riding more fun. I find it especially makes a HUGE difference, on all bikes with long front suspension-travel, like Enduros for example! Can only urge everyone to actively try it !
If you're running wide or carrying too much corner speed the safer technique is to scrub the rear brake. I've tried to explain this for years but it's still not getting through. I watch countless videos of riders running wide in the corners and 99% of the time they could easily make the corner if they just applied a little rear trail braking while maintaining throttle. Adding rear brake accomplishes the same thing as cutting the throttle but without unloading the front, standing the bike up, and running wide. Adding rear brake will tighten your line and keep control over the front end. Try it sometime.
how do you apply the rear brake while on the throttle if your running wide? engine braking? what exactly happens when you apply rear brake while on the throttle?
@@hectorlosada435 You're either going to be neutral or maintaining your throttle position. You're mid corner so you're not going to be making big changes in TP. In order to get engine braking you'd have to chop the throttle. That would mean you're still not at the apex of the corner. Think if you're going around a long wide fast sweeper you've set your line and your maintaining throttle and speed. If you start to drag your rear brake it's going to slow you down ever so slightly which brings your line inside. If instead you add more throttle you'll start to drift wider. It's the same principle of adding or subtracting throttle to go wider or more inside. The reason you don't want to cut the throttle is you'll dump weight forward which will make the bike straighten up, stand up, and run wide. Practice on a nice big long sweeper where you can safely figure it out. It doesn't take much brake pressure. Just drag the pads.
@@timdavis6088 thanks tim for the breakdown and explanation, i understand you. i just didnt understand the concept of how to use the rear brake with the throttle open. i currently use a thumb rear brake on my R1 2cr and tend to drag the rear brake, but when i run wide. so i tend to close the throttle then use the rear brake to pull me back in before opening the throttle again. but ive never used the rear brake with the throttle open
@@hectorlosada435 Your goal is to keep the front end settled and stay as smooth as possible. So smooth throttle control is vital to not loading the front by On/Off throttle. I'll say this, the most times this technique has saved my a$$ was getting caught by decreasing radius turns. You're already committed, you think you have the corner figured out and then suddenly, oh crap, it's getting tighter! You have to fight the urge to chop the throttle and instead just lightly press the rear brake lever. You'll feel it pull you inside and scrub speed but your rpms stay the same so nothing gets upset mid corner at almost full lean. That's why I suggested you learn on a sweeper. You have a lot more room for error. That'll give you the feeling of what happens to the bike when you start scrubbing speed.
What is the best way to learn the max trail braking brake pressure? It seems that with newer bikes with cornering ABS, a rider should be able to gradually increase trail braking pressure until ABS interventions occur. Is this a practical approach, or a good way to crash?
For many bikes, particularly on the streets, the engine braking plays a big part in doing that gradual reduction of braking force as you approach the apex. Unfortunately it doesn't load the tyre.
Totally agree. This is my main control method on the road. Allowing a better flow state. Yes while chasing lap time on track trail braking become a more prevalent factor. Given the state of uk roads I would argue using engine braking alone allows you to change your line on entry to avoid a bad road surface or gravel wash out more than when using trail braking which leans more towards a dedicated apex approach.
My experiences on the 1290 Superduke are completely different. It grabs the world and rips it towards itself. Works for police chases too as their cruisers bottom out on shredded remnants of tarmac.
I cant overemphasize how much of a revelation it was to maintain brake pressure all the way to the apex (in slow corners). Obviously I trailed off with lean but I could still feel how the front end tightened the line and stayed locked in. The bike wants to be upright. In tight slow corners you have to use all available tools to maximize front grip and tighten the line.
I'd like to say that it's actually alright to be an average rider with average skills but staying within legal speeds and keeping to traffic rules and regulations. It's good to learn advanced skills and stuff but don't let anyone force you to do anything unnecessarily too fast. Take your time to learn.
My worst crash was 100% a loss of confidence at the wrong time. Getting on the brakes too hard in the middle of a turn, resultign in a highside trip into the nearest ditch, followed by a tree that was kind enough to choose the exact spot where the helicopter could pick me up.
The "transition point" you talk about is the actual Apex of a corner. people get wrapped up with the closet point to the kerb being an apex when its actually the clipping point. You can be on the throttle at the point where you clip the kerb. The thing you miss out on is when you get to the mid point where you have the most lean angle is how you figure out what is the limit of grip as you approach the apex of a corner and have the greatest load through the tyres. If you cannot understand how to figure out how much grip you have you will always be average or just above average to be honest.
With respect for the intent to improve rider skills, I disagree. Before learning trail braking, with the challenge to grip and turn, the much safer corner entry approach is closed throttle, no brakes so that engine breaking does the work. Only when you can constantly hit the apex do you need to consider the additional risk of trail braking (circle of grip). The best explanation of closed throttle cornering is by Simon Crafar in his MotoVudu channel. He of GP victory and MotoGP contribution..
The flip side of this conversation is the lack of throttle control, specifically, engine braking. I would personally recommend riders learn to be as fast as possible by using ONLY the throttle and engine braking before trying to learn trail braking. Too many rides skip right past the more important skill of throttle control and want to be the latest and greatest hard braker. While it's a great skill to have in the tool box it needs to be a compliment to your throttle control. Not a band-aid for the lack of throttle control.
Try to be as fast as possible using only engine braking? Horrible advice. As stated in the video, you need to load the front in order to get proper grip going into a corner. He's not telling you to be the hardest braker, he's telling you to be smooth on the front brake to maximize grip, speed, and line.
I read his comments differently. It’s more about learning one thing at a time., so as to not get overwhelmed. You’re right that when pushing for outright speed, using just throttle control is not gonna get you anywhere but when learning the characteristics of the bike, I find it easier it come to grips with throttle control first. That is, doing relatively slow but deliberate corners, and once one feels the limit of that approach, move on to trail braking.
@@nsant Not everyone is ambidextrous or coordinated with both hands. That's why so many people never tried to ride bikes in the past. They didn't have the electronic aids. If we're talking about riders learning skills then they should develop those skills one stacked on top of another. Not all at once or skills above their skill level. That's why my point was having them learn the throttle first as that's where most of the mistakes originate from. Then let them add more challenging skills like rev matching, engine braking on downshifts, & trail braking when they're ready. Also try to remember we're talking to a wide range of riders and skill levels. Not everyone is a racer and not everyone is a beginner.
Most of us have been taught the slow look press and roll technique and with trail Braking was a Skill, best suited for the track. So in my opinion, there’s a whole generation of people that have been taught this technique by the motorcycle safety foundation, which in general they are still correct when riding a motorcycle on the street so look press and roll should be adequate to keep you safe, but more spirited riding requires trail breaking as an advanced skill that is hard to adapt
You are correct. SLPR is instructed/taught because the BRC is to introduce you to riding and hopefully teach you enough to keep you alive. At the end of the class you are also instructed that there are advanced courses to help continue learning skills. Trail Braking 'is' a skill to advance into once you have mastered the basics. I want to keep you alive to get to that point and keep someone from doing something stupid like getting into a turn too fast on their $20+k RR BMW with less than 1k miles on it (overlooking the fact that - that was a dumb move for a 1st bike) low-siding and filing an insurance claim and driving up my insurance rates - while making the riders insurance rate go up to almost unobtanium and having to sell the bike after its' fixed due to insurance un-affordability. Ride sport bikes long and hard enough you'll probably pick up on the skill as you gain experience - naturally.
You are correct. SLPR is instructed/taught because the BRC is to introduce you to riding and hopefully teach you enough to keep you alive. At the end of the class you are also instructed that there are advanced courses to help continue learning skills. Trail Braking 'is' a skill to advance into once you have mastered the basics. I want to keep you alive to get to that point and keep someone from doing something stupid like getting into a turn too fast on their $20+k RR BMW with less than 1k miles on it (overlooking the fact that - that was a dumb move for a 1st bike) low-siding and filing an insurance claim and driving up my insurance rates - while making the riders insurance rate go up to almost unobtanium and having to sell the bike after its' fixed due to insurance un-affordability. Ride sport bikes long and hard enough you'll probably pick up on the skill as you gain experience - naturally.
Great video and explanation! But what can we do about leaning too fast? At least thats how i feel my bike (and me) react sometimes, it just "falls" into the lean more than i originally anticipated or faster and sometimes it catches me off guard. Is it the tyres and how they're shaped? Or a suspension thing? i only ride on the street and not very fast either. Thanks!
Sounds like a geometry thing. Check your bikes factory fork height measurement out online and then measure the bike and see if it’s correct. The lower the front of the bike is the faster it will turn in. You don’t want it falling into a turn, you want it predictable. Next raising the rear can feel the same as lowering the front. Does your shock have a height adjustment? Is the rear raised. Is all the rear preload in the bike? That raises the rear as well.
@wirenut3020 the bike is a 2007 Gsr 600 and it does jave an adjustable rear shock but it was never touched so its in the factory setting (the bike has 8000 miles only). The frony only allows for oke setting, being soft or hard (dont know thr name for it) as Gsr forks are known to be soft and now its at the hardest setting.
Nice. I learned trail braking as a tool for maintaining suspension stability to mid corner. Which does what you said, but suspension and tires were different then. Now If I had a GP500, I'd just stuff and run like the old days. Accepting medical cost donations NOW !
I think my UA-cam is broke, everytime someone in a video points to a spot and says "you can find that in this next video here" they're just pointing in the air.. nothings there lol
Tire brand and tire pressure are the main issues to address first. Try some Dunlop Q4 or Q5 s at 31f 29r psi. Your confidence is shit because you have no front end feel Then get your ergos setup so you sit loose and comfortable on bike. Then get your sag setup to 2" static.
I agree tyre pressure is even more important to riders.. My 1000cc race bikes for IOM and other true road circuits I run 20 to 24 in the front, and 22 to 26 in the rear.. Manufacturers give tyre pressure for two up adults at approximately 15 stone each person. If you watch racers at isle of man you will see how rear tryes at lean have a noticeable squat to them, the softer pressure allows for the tyre to flex while still giving full grip and feel.. People often say that would make the bike move about to much.. but that's not the case.. You do need a very accurate pressure gauge..
Proper throttle and engine breaking is vital as well. Someone else said it, but it bares repeating... practice the art of riding without using the brakes or using them as little as possible.
You release the brakes sooner, but keep them on longer. HUH!? How do you keep on brakes which you've already released? To me, this explanation contradicts itself. This needs clarification. Chart seems to show beginning braking very early and holding it longer - moderate braking over a greater linear distance from beginning to release at the entry point. Or does one initially brake hard, then taper off as you approach the entry point? This second choice would seem to be the quickest but trickier way to get to the entry point. I would like to be more proficient, but I need a more clear-cut explanation. Thank you.
You always use front and the rear brake to trail brake, after releasing front brake on turn in, you will trail the rear brake to pull the front in....You will always be trying to get back on power faster and thats what you want.
None of my bikes have abs, trail braking gives you more grip and feel. As Dan said, trail braking helps the bike turn quicker too, on the road it also gives you more options if there's a big stone on your line.
Nah man, I'm from Spain and we're getting a South American Spanish AI voice automatically, can't even find the option to use the default audio track! Must be UA-cam's antics @@LifeatLean
I rode my first bike at the age of 20 and it was a scooter, I felt I had a natural instinct for trail braking. But one day, when my brother was riding behind me, he advised me that I was too ameture for trail braking. I lost my courage after that and sometimes it was hard to get the confidence to corner. Thanks to you, I finally know how to get back my confidence for trail braking
For me, trail braking was for sure the biggest confidence improvement I had through me years of biking, made me feel much safer. It increased the enjoyment of rising immensely, both on road and on track.
Learned to ride on a dirt bike on rough mountain tracks, so we naturally drifted into corners and got comfortable with the bike moving around under us. Most riders don’t learn in the dirt so really don’t learn to ride properly …
Brilliant. I always say slow is smooth, smooth is fast! Keeping it etched in the brain!
Smooth is the key to good riding … 🎉
Great video, spreading the gospel! 🙏
Trailbraking completely changend my riding a few years back! Since then, I try to get it into everybody's head, like some sort of annoying mansplainer.
But I think it's just so worth it.😅
I truly believe it's just much safer, and also makes riding more fun.
I find it especially makes a HUGE difference, on all bikes with long front suspension-travel, like Enduros for example!
Can only urge everyone to actively try it !
Trail braking front and some rear trail as you transfer to acceleration at the apex.
If you're running wide or carrying too much corner speed the safer technique is to scrub the rear brake. I've tried to explain this for years but it's still not getting through. I watch countless videos of riders running wide in the corners and 99% of the time they could easily make the corner if they just applied a little rear trail braking while maintaining throttle. Adding rear brake accomplishes the same thing as cutting the throttle but without unloading the front, standing the bike up, and running wide. Adding rear brake will tighten your line and keep control over the front end. Try it sometime.
how do you apply the rear brake while on the throttle if your running wide? engine braking? what exactly happens when you apply rear brake while on the throttle?
@@hectorlosada435You are tightening the corner. See moto gymkhana videos.
@@hectorlosada435 You're either going to be neutral or maintaining your throttle position. You're mid corner so you're not going to be making big changes in TP. In order to get engine braking you'd have to chop the throttle. That would mean you're still not at the apex of the corner.
Think if you're going around a long wide fast sweeper you've set your line and your maintaining throttle and speed. If you start to drag your rear brake it's going to slow you down ever so slightly which brings your line inside. If instead you add more throttle you'll start to drift wider. It's the same principle of adding or subtracting throttle to go wider or more inside. The reason you don't want to cut the throttle is you'll dump weight forward which will make the bike straighten up, stand up, and run wide.
Practice on a nice big long sweeper where you can safely figure it out. It doesn't take much brake pressure. Just drag the pads.
@@timdavis6088 thanks tim for the breakdown and explanation, i understand you. i just didnt understand the concept of how to use the rear brake with the throttle open. i currently use a thumb rear brake on my R1 2cr and tend to drag the rear brake, but when i run wide. so i tend to close the throttle then use the rear brake to pull me back in before opening the throttle again. but ive never used the rear brake with the throttle open
@@hectorlosada435 Your goal is to keep the front end settled and stay as smooth as possible. So smooth throttle control is vital to not loading the front by On/Off throttle.
I'll say this, the most times this technique has saved my a$$ was getting caught by decreasing radius turns. You're already committed, you think you have the corner figured out and then suddenly, oh crap, it's getting tighter! You have to fight the urge to chop the throttle and instead just lightly press the rear brake lever. You'll feel it pull you inside and scrub speed but your rpms stay the same so nothing gets upset mid corner at almost full lean. That's why I suggested you learn on a sweeper. You have a lot more room for error. That'll give you the feeling of what happens to the bike when you start scrubbing speed.
Really great work, 👏👏👏👏you summed up this topic very well, Merry Christmas to you and all the bikers out there☃🎅🏍🎄
As usual an exellent film m8. Merry X mass.
What is the best way to learn the max trail braking brake pressure? It seems that with newer bikes with cornering ABS, a rider should be able to gradually increase trail braking pressure until ABS interventions occur. Is this a practical approach, or a good way to crash?
For many bikes, particularly on the streets, the engine braking plays a big part in doing that gradual reduction of braking force as you approach the apex. Unfortunately it doesn't load the tyre.
Totally agree. This is my main control method on the road. Allowing a better flow state. Yes while chasing lap time on track trail braking become a more prevalent factor. Given the state of uk roads I would argue using engine braking alone allows you to change your line on entry to avoid a bad road surface or gravel wash out more than when using trail braking which leans more towards a dedicated apex approach.
My experiences on the 1290 Superduke are completely different. It grabs the world and rips it towards itself. Works for police chases too as their cruisers bottom out on shredded remnants of tarmac.
I cant overemphasize how much of a revelation it was to maintain brake pressure all the way to the apex (in slow corners). Obviously I trailed off with lean but I could still feel how the front end tightened the line and stayed locked in. The bike wants to be upright. In tight slow corners you have to use all available tools to maximize front grip and tighten the line.
I'd like to say that it's actually alright to be an average rider with average skills but staying within legal speeds and keeping to traffic rules and regulations. It's good to learn advanced skills and stuff but don't let anyone force you to do anything unnecessarily too fast. Take your time to learn.
great video and loved this T-Shirt!
slightly dragging front brake can increase grip at extreme lean angle
The exact video I needed to see. Thanks for these!!!
My worst crash was 100% a loss of confidence at the wrong time. Getting on the brakes too hard in the middle of a turn, resultign in a highside trip into the nearest ditch, followed by a tree that was kind enough to choose the exact spot where the helicopter could pick me up.
The "transition point" you talk about is the actual Apex of a corner. people get wrapped up with the closet point to the kerb being an apex when its actually the clipping point. You can be on the throttle at the point where you clip the kerb. The thing you miss out on is when you get to the mid point where you have the most lean angle is how you figure out what is the limit of grip as you approach the apex of a corner and have the greatest load through the tyres. If you cannot understand how to figure out how much grip you have you will always be average or just above average to be honest.
Thank you so much, very useful video.
Great video thanks Dan
With respect for the intent to improve rider skills, I disagree.
Before learning trail braking, with the challenge to grip and turn, the much safer corner entry approach is closed throttle, no brakes so that engine breaking does the work. Only when you can constantly hit the apex do you need to consider the additional risk of trail braking (circle of grip).
The best explanation of closed throttle cornering is by Simon Crafar in his MotoVudu channel. He of GP victory and MotoGP contribution..
The flip side of this conversation is the lack of throttle control, specifically, engine braking. I would personally recommend riders learn to be as fast as possible by using ONLY the throttle and engine braking before trying to learn trail braking. Too many rides skip right past the more important skill of throttle control and want to be the latest and greatest hard braker. While it's a great skill to have in the tool box it needs to be a compliment to your throttle control. Not a band-aid for the lack of throttle control.
Try to be as fast as possible using only engine braking? Horrible advice. As stated in the video, you need to load the front in order to get proper grip going into a corner. He's not telling you to be the hardest braker, he's telling you to be smooth on the front brake to maximize grip, speed, and line.
"gas to go, brakes to slow"
@@tREVVA1 Gears to go, brakes to slow.
I read his comments differently. It’s more about learning one thing at a time., so as to not get overwhelmed. You’re right that when pushing for outright speed, using just throttle control is not gonna get you anywhere but when learning the characteristics of the bike, I find it easier it come to grips with throttle control first. That is, doing relatively slow but deliberate corners, and once one feels the limit of that approach, move on to trail braking.
@@nsant Not everyone is ambidextrous or coordinated with both hands. That's why so many people never tried to ride bikes in the past. They didn't have the electronic aids. If we're talking about riders learning skills then they should develop those skills one stacked on top of another. Not all at once or skills above their skill level. That's why my point was having them learn the throttle first as that's where most of the mistakes originate from. Then let them add more challenging skills like rev matching, engine braking on downshifts, & trail braking when they're ready. Also try to remember we're talking to a wide range of riders and skill levels. Not everyone is a racer and not everyone is a beginner.
Most of us have been taught the slow look press and roll technique and with trail Braking was a Skill, best suited for the track. So in my opinion, there’s a whole generation of people that have been taught this technique by the motorcycle safety foundation, which in general they are still correct when riding a motorcycle on the street so look press and roll should be adequate to keep you safe, but more spirited riding requires trail breaking as an advanced skill that is hard to adapt
You are correct. SLPR is instructed/taught because the BRC is to introduce you to riding and hopefully teach you enough to keep you alive. At the end of the class you are also instructed that there are advanced courses to help continue learning skills. Trail Braking 'is' a skill to advance into once you have mastered the basics. I want to keep you alive to get to that point and keep someone from doing something stupid like getting into a turn too fast on their $20+k RR BMW with less than 1k miles on it (overlooking the fact that - that was a dumb move for a 1st bike) low-siding and filing an insurance claim and driving up my insurance rates - while making the riders insurance rate go up to almost unobtanium and having to sell the bike after its' fixed due to insurance un-affordability. Ride sport bikes long and hard enough you'll probably pick up on the skill as you gain experience - naturally.
You are correct. SLPR is instructed/taught because the BRC is to introduce you to riding and hopefully teach you enough to keep you alive. At the end of the class you are also instructed that there are advanced courses to help continue learning skills. Trail Braking 'is' a skill to advance into once you have mastered the basics. I want to keep you alive to get to that point and keep someone from doing something stupid like getting into a turn too fast on their $20+k RR BMW with less than 1k miles on it (overlooking the fact that - that was a dumb move for a 1st bike) low-siding and filing an insurance claim and driving up my insurance rates - while making the riders insurance rate go up to almost unobtanium and having to sell the bike after its' fixed due to insurance un-affordability. Ride sport bikes long and hard enough you'll probably pick up on the skill as you gain experience - naturally.
Great video and explanation! But what can we do about leaning too fast? At least thats how i feel my bike (and me) react sometimes, it just "falls" into the lean more than i originally anticipated or faster and sometimes it catches me off guard. Is it the tyres and how they're shaped? Or a suspension thing? i only ride on the street and not very fast either. Thanks!
Sounds like a geometry thing. Check your bikes factory fork height measurement out online and then measure the bike and see if it’s correct. The lower the front of the bike is the faster it will turn in. You don’t want it falling into a turn, you want it predictable.
Next raising the rear can feel the same as lowering the front. Does your shock have a height adjustment? Is the rear raised. Is all the rear preload in the bike? That raises the rear as well.
@wirenut3020 the bike is a 2007 Gsr 600 and it does jave an adjustable rear shock but it was never touched so its in the factory setting (the bike has 8000 miles only). The frony only allows for oke setting, being soft or hard (dont know thr name for it) as Gsr forks are known to be soft and now its at the hardest setting.
Nice. I learned trail braking as a tool for maintaining suspension stability to mid corner.
Which does what you said, but suspension and tires were different then.
Now If I had a GP500, I'd just stuff and run like the old days.
Accepting medical cost donations NOW !
So what is trail braking?!
Watch again and pay attention this time … 😂
Where can I get that t-shirt. I need it!
I found it in the description...
I think my UA-cam is broke, everytime someone in a video points to a spot and says "you can find that in this next video here" they're just pointing in the air.. nothings there lol
Tire brand and tire pressure are the main issues to address first. Try some Dunlop Q4 or Q5 s at 31f 29r psi. Your confidence is shit because you have no front end feel
Then get your ergos setup so you sit loose and comfortable on bike.
Then get your sag setup to 2" static.
I agree tyre pressure is even more important to riders..
My 1000cc race bikes for IOM and other true road circuits I run 20 to 24 in the front, and 22 to 26 in the rear..
Manufacturers give tyre pressure for two up adults at approximately 15 stone each person.
If you watch racers at isle of man you will see how rear tryes at lean have a noticeable squat to them, the softer pressure allows for the tyre to flex while still giving full grip and feel..
People often say that would make the bike move about to much.. but that's not the case..
You do need a very accurate pressure gauge..
I've always trailed brake. You don't upset the bike that way and go faster.
No more oh-sh*t moments once I started trail braking.
Proper throttle and engine breaking is vital as well. Someone else said it, but it bares repeating... practice the art of riding without using the brakes or using them as little as possible.
Definitely. Good riders can slow their bikes with minimal brake use, unless really pushing hard …
You release the brakes sooner, but keep them on longer. HUH!? How do you keep on brakes which you've already released? To me, this explanation contradicts itself. This needs clarification. Chart seems to show beginning braking very early and holding it longer - moderate braking over a greater linear distance from beginning to release at the entry point. Or does one initially brake hard, then taper off as you approach the entry point? This second choice would seem to be the quickest but trickier way to get to the entry point. I would like to be more proficient, but I need a more clear-cut explanation. Thank you.
Speed dictates style.
I use front brake way more than rear brake
Be nice if the vid was m1 and showed the actual thing
Seems a tad confusing this video 🤔😵💫🤔
Gazı açıp frene basmaya nedersin virajda
The answer is always trail braking. Every vid. Every time.
You always use front and the rear brake to trail brake, after releasing front brake on turn in, you will trail the rear brake to pull the front in....You will always be trying to get back on power faster and thats what you want.
Downvoted for thumbnail text
in leaning ?! without abs ?! front brake ?! guaranteed fall... all motogp lowside in help...
None of my bikes have abs, trail braking gives you more grip and feel. As Dan said, trail braking helps the bike turn quicker too, on the road it also gives you more options if there's a big stone on your line.
AI VOICEOVER!! NOO!!!!
Nope. That's just me!
Honestly. That's actually a hilarious interaction 😂
Nah man, I'm from Spain and we're getting a South American Spanish AI voice automatically, can't even find the option to use the default audio track! Must be UA-cam's antics @@LifeatLean
Oh no way! I heard it was coming but didn't know when.