Thank you for teaching us how to properly identify issues with red pine and further care for them. I know what to get next pay day a jewelers lens and see if I can find books on tree diseases and how to treat and prevent them.
Great video, I liked the close ups of your magnifying lense. I do not see that much of videos about plagues on our trees. This was specific. Thank you very much. Enjoyed it alot.
Hey I just want to thank you for your awesome videos and content, Im glad your channel its growing so much I always share your videos when I can, Happy hollydays!
It looks similar to a brief over fertizing that the tree is being to recover from. The root may have been burned and the soil ph may have been knocked out of a healthy range. Desiccating the foliage. Afterwards a decomposing fungus is showing up on the damaged leaves. However the root are now recovered do following watering flushing out excessive salts. A fungicide is a good idea just incase
Jason - you're right, that's a plausible scenario. I didn't mention that the owner only uses organic fertilizers - so salt /fert burn is very unlikely. (but the symptoms are consistent with root burn.)
Hi Eric I found a red pine at a local nursery today. Was thinking about getting it it is about 2 feet tall & pretty bushy & has a nice trunk. I’ve never had a red pine so am researching them.
They do back bud - but bushy isn't always good - check how close viable buds are to the trunk. Check the trunk taper and shape also. See if it's flexible. But sounds like a decent starting point - oh, make sure it isn't grafted!
my first Scots pine tree was a collected tree that got styled and trained in a bonsai nursery, when i bought it and took it home it had no signs of naything wrong, then throughout the growing season the tips of the needles were discolored and almost weak looking. i thought it was watering issues however took to google where i learned about needle cast and needle blight. after doing research I got incontact with ISU horticultural studies and talked to them about symptoms of needle cast, needle blight and over watering with possible root rot. they told me the tell tail signs of needle cast is the fruiting of the fundus on the needles, this can appear as tiny white or grey flecks in neat orderly lines on the needle. at this stage the spores are being released and carried by wind, bugs and animals or us by interaction. I was told to use a fungicide that was strong and has needle cast listed on its treatment. then spray the tree according to directions, and repeat for TWO growing seasons to ensure it is actually gone. Needle blight will show the same symptoms however all needles will be effected instead of at random with cast. needle blight also "sets in" faster and can take ahold of a tree in a shorter amount of time. One person brought me a cutting off of their pine trees at their farm and it was covered in fruiting spots and we didnt even need a magnifying glass to see the pins. I honestly think taking preventitive measures is always a good idea. theres fungicides and pesticides that are for that use.
Hi Eric, Awesome video as always!!! It sounds like copper based fungicide is the way to go. I’m curious what your thought is in alternating or using dual agents like infuse or subdue maxx be worthwhile? Would spraying dilute lime sulphur be helpful. I’m currently having issues with multiple conifers. I brought home root aphids from a couple of bargin basement trees at last years club sale and have done some dunk treatments which seems to be helping. When I see lighter color on needles I usually start by watering less. Pines seem slow to respond and by the time the symptoms show up the disease seems well imbedded. Your fund of knowledge and your sharing that is much appreciated. Your UA-cam channel is more helpful than what other bonsai artists are putting out. It’s nice to see such advocacy for teaching instead of just showing off skills. Mats
Hey Mats - Subdue helps with root rot, but I don't think it's particularly effective against needle blight. And recent info indicates that many strains of Pythium and Phytopthora are developing resistance to subdue. They are recommending Orkestra and Orvego instead. Propiconazole is the recommended systemic for needle blight, it works well in my experience, but you do need to treat at least every couple months. And it's even better to treat with copper in between. The copper is a prophylactic, while the propiconazole is systemic. You won't see any improvement in the existing needles, you're just trying to keep new needles from being infected. As for root aphids - they're tenacious little bastards - dunks are the most effective. Do keep in mind they are species specific; I see them on Black Pine, Chinese Elm and Crabapples. Each of those is a different species. The roots are actually the "secondary host" and in spring and fall they migrate to an alternate host. The black pine alternate host is Asian ash, crabapple alternate host is Chinese elm (but the leaves not the roots.)
TBH, I'm not sure. They do seem to be more prone to blights and other problems. However Japan is a hot humid place in summer, so I imagine they would do fine....
I would say Japanese Black Pine, Kishu or Itoigawa Juniper, Trident Maple, Japanese Maple and elm. But there are a lot of trees once you get past the third spot.
I am a week into my bonsai rabbit hole lol..I'm really digging on the dawn redwood, the western sequoia and some of the willow trees, Chinese elm, oak and maples. Where I live in Oregon is surrounded by western juniper which just about everyone wants to kill because they blame their allergies on it. So I am surprised to see all of the hi end juniper bonsai . I understand it though because of the foliage is very prunable for visual effect. I've just been given to small ficus trees but I'm not really wanting tropical plants however beautiful they are it gets cold here in the winter I'm really wanting plants that can flourish in my area. I'm going to go out and find me a couple pieces of the western juniper from here and see what I can do with them while I try to figure out what to get
Thanks for all the content you put out. Would micronized sulfur spray once a week help? I use it as a preventative on my fruit trees. Tested it on some young Ponderosa and JBP this past year and they did great.
You should ask Alessandro Strosseri, he is active on Facebook, one of the top pine experts in Italy. I don’t know him personality just know his bonsai background
Help, I live in Ontario Canada. The ground is frozen , nursery's are closed . I've styled everything in my collection one two many times,or it needs to grow . Iam in bonsai withdrawal. Help me.
@@Bonsaify if I can convince my wife to move , I would 100 percent love to do that . That's one reason why I was so interested,about your trees and dormancy ,
Looks like a small pot if i had that tree in denmark(zone 8) in that pot i would need to water it up to 4 times a day in sommer so you most have to water it alot more over there in sommer or have it in the shade, dry roots on a red pine sounds dangerus to me
This one lives in Zone 9b, and gets afternoon protection from scorching heat waves, but otherwise likes full sun. Pines don't like to be wet, so be careful with watering.
@@Bonsaify I know.... what I was trying to say is that densiflora is more difficult when you have a problem with it. Its more difficult than kuromatsu, black pone or scott pine. Good luck!!!
Very nice red pine, and very nice pot, they fit perfectly.
Not first and surely not last - thanks for the lesson!
Great “hands on” advice. Macro video was very helpful. Spot on diagnoses and potential cause. Thanks!
Thank you for teaching us how to properly identify issues with red pine and further care for them. I know what to get next pay day a jewelers lens and see if I can find books on tree diseases and how to treat and prevent them.
Great video, I liked the close ups of your magnifying lense. I do not see that much of videos about plagues on our trees. This was specific. Thank you very much. Enjoyed it alot.
Thanks Eric
Great information! Thanks for posting. First one I’ve seen dealing with this topic.
Hey I just want to thank you for your awesome videos and content, Im glad your channel its growing so much I always share your videos when I can, Happy hollydays!
Thanks. This format really help to learn!
It looks similar to a brief over fertizing that the tree is being to recover from. The root may have been burned and the soil ph may have been knocked out of a healthy range. Desiccating the foliage. Afterwards a decomposing fungus is showing up on the damaged leaves. However the root are now recovered do following watering flushing out excessive salts. A fungicide is a good idea just incase
Jason - you're right, that's a plausible scenario. I didn't mention that the owner only uses organic fertilizers - so salt /fert burn is very unlikely. (but the symptoms are consistent with root burn.)
Hi Eric I found a red pine at a local nursery today. Was thinking about getting it it is about 2 feet tall & pretty bushy & has a nice trunk. I’ve never had a red pine so am researching them.
They do back bud - but bushy isn't always good - check how close viable buds are to the trunk. Check the trunk taper and shape also. See if it's flexible. But sounds like a decent starting point - oh, make sure it isn't grafted!
Really awesome video. Thank you so much.
my first Scots pine tree was a collected tree that got styled and trained in a bonsai nursery, when i bought it and took it home it had no signs of naything wrong, then throughout the growing season the tips of the needles were discolored and almost weak looking. i thought it was watering issues however took to google where i learned about needle cast and needle blight. after doing research I got incontact with ISU horticultural studies and talked to them about symptoms of needle cast, needle blight and over watering with possible root rot. they told me the tell tail signs of needle cast is the fruiting of the fundus on the needles, this can appear as tiny white or grey flecks in neat orderly lines on the needle. at this stage the spores are being released and carried by wind, bugs and animals or us by interaction. I was told to use a fungicide that was strong and has needle cast listed on its treatment. then spray the tree according to directions, and repeat for TWO growing seasons to ensure it is actually gone. Needle blight will show the same symptoms however all needles will be effected instead of at random with cast. needle blight also "sets in" faster and can take ahold of a tree in a shorter amount of time. One person brought me a cutting off of their pine trees at their farm and it was covered in fruiting spots and we didnt even need a magnifying glass to see the pins. I honestly think taking preventitive measures is always a good idea. theres fungicides and pesticides that are for that use.
Hi Eric,
Awesome video as always!!!
It sounds like copper based fungicide is the way to go. I’m curious what your thought is in alternating or using dual agents like infuse or subdue maxx be worthwhile? Would spraying dilute lime sulphur be helpful. I’m currently having issues with multiple conifers. I brought home root aphids from a couple of bargin basement trees at last years club sale and have done some dunk treatments which seems to be helping. When I see lighter color on needles I usually start by watering less. Pines seem slow to respond and by the time the symptoms show up the disease seems well imbedded. Your fund of knowledge and your sharing that is much appreciated.
Your UA-cam channel is more helpful than what other bonsai artists are putting out. It’s nice to see such advocacy for teaching instead of just showing off skills.
Mats
Hey Mats - Subdue helps with root rot, but I don't think it's particularly effective against needle blight. And recent info indicates that many strains of Pythium and Phytopthora are developing resistance to subdue. They are recommending Orkestra and Orvego instead.
Propiconazole is the recommended systemic for needle blight, it works well in my experience, but you do need to treat at least every couple months. And it's even better to treat with copper in between. The copper is a prophylactic, while the propiconazole is systemic. You won't see any improvement in the existing needles, you're just trying to keep new needles from being infected.
As for root aphids - they're tenacious little bastards - dunks are the most effective. Do keep in mind they are species specific; I see them on Black Pine, Chinese Elm and Crabapples. Each of those is a different species. The roots are actually the "secondary host" and in spring and fall they migrate to an alternate host. The black pine alternate host is Asian ash, crabapple alternate host is Chinese elm (but the leaves not the roots.)
Hi Eric, great video. How hardy are Japanese red pines to heat and humidity? I know Japanese black pines can tolerate heat pretty well. Thank you
TBH, I'm not sure. They do seem to be more prone to blights and other problems. However Japan is a hot humid place in summer, so I imagine they would do fine....
What are the five most sought after trees to make bonsai
I would say Japanese Black Pine, Kishu or Itoigawa Juniper, Trident Maple, Japanese Maple and elm. But there are a lot of trees once you get past the third spot.
I am a week into my bonsai rabbit hole lol..I'm really digging on the dawn redwood, the western sequoia and some of the willow trees, Chinese elm, oak and maples. Where I live in Oregon is surrounded by western juniper which just about everyone wants to kill because they blame their allergies on it. So I am surprised to see all of the hi end juniper bonsai . I understand it though because of the foliage is very prunable for visual effect. I've just been given to small ficus trees but I'm not really wanting tropical plants however beautiful they are it gets cold here in the winter I'm really wanting plants that can flourish in my area. I'm going to go out and find me a couple pieces of the western juniper from here and see what I can do with them while I try to figure out what to get
Thanks for all the content you put out. Would micronized sulfur spray once a week help? I use it as a preventative on my fruit trees. Tested it on some young Ponderosa and JBP this past year and they did great.
I believe so. It's an effective fungicide, and it's also an insecticide to a certain extent.
@@Bonsaify Thank you... Looks like I'll keep the program going.
👏👏👏
I like bonsai
5 seconds in, my first guess is chlorosis (lack of iron), Let's see! :)
...and I was wrong! :)
You should ask Alessandro Strosseri, he is active on Facebook, one of the top pine experts in Italy. I don’t know him personality just know his bonsai background
Help, I live in Ontario Canada. The ground is frozen , nursery's are closed . I've styled everything in my collection one two many times,or it needs to grow . Iam in bonsai withdrawal. Help me.
Well, if you want to be a nursery intern let us know. 😂
@@Bonsaify if I can convince my wife to move , I would 100 percent love to do that . That's one reason why I was so interested,about your trees and dormancy ,
Looks like a small pot if i had that tree in denmark(zone 8) in that pot i would need to water it up to 4 times a day in sommer so you most have to water it alot more over there in sommer or have it in the shade, dry roots on a red pine sounds dangerus to me
This one lives in Zone 9b, and gets afternoon protection from scorching heat waves, but otherwise likes full sun. Pines don't like to be wet, so be careful with watering.
Bom dia, Flor do dia!
Good morning mate.
Hi guys
I have about 50x2 years old Japanese Red Pines
The needles are pretty long and the colour is very purple
Is that normal?
Young pines sometimes change color in winter, which is normal. Not sure why they don't do the same when older.
@@Bonsaify thank you
Red pine, bad question....
Japanese Red Pine - Pinus densiflora
@@Bonsaify I know.... what I was trying to say is that densiflora is more difficult when you have a problem with it. Its more difficult than kuromatsu, black pone or scott pine. Good luck!!!
First, hope not last :)