Thank you for your videos on how to change out the computer. May it be assumed that as it is not shown or stated - that you do not need to have the newly installed computer - forgive me I cannot recall the correct term so this is what I can think of - to have the newer one "Rebooted" to talk to the car? This procedure, as you have shown are the ONLY steps to replacing a bad computer so the car will run again as it should? Thank you!!! Did you ever figure out what/where the water leak was coming from and why? I have the same issue and have to keep my (I call my car) skateboard covered up when it rains or it will get drenched depending on how much or hard it rains.
I did find the water leak:ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html And I can't speak for all Accords but with my 95 there's no need to have the "new" used computed rebooted.. Just plug it in and go.. I have this video showing me finding used computers at a salvage yard:ua-cam.com/video/k6cNSNi0R5s/v-deo.html
Do you have any idea, what code 55 is meaning? When it's cold outside, after the 1st start +3 minutes, and the engine stalling. 5 min resting, then starting again, run w/o problem. But I can not find code 55. Type: '99 Honda Hrv 1.6 4WD D16W1 - Thanks!
Hello thanks for taking time to explain us for me its kinda stressful to see what happens i have a 93 civic eg and i recently saw that there's some adapters to obd2 so it can be connected that port to the obd2 do u think that would work?thx
No ive tried it unfortunately doesnt work. Each obd is completely different from one another and pre obd2 ecu harnesses are manufacturer specific with their own scanner if im not mistaken.
My EPS light is on when turning on the car all the way (EPS also not working) but when I try to get a code there is no light turning on at all. Any idea?
Hello mate. I'm doing the engine checking light as you did in the video but the light on my civic 1994 remain on (no flashing at all) if I turn on the car, the light still remain on. The engine light just turn off if I remove the jumper. My car run normally, no issues at all for more than 100KM with VTEC in action.
Never had that issue so I did a little research.. If you get a solid check engine light (CEL) after jumping the connector that represents trouble code 0 which could mean your computer (ECU) is bad.. Or, as discussed in this thread, the problem was a weak/discharged battery: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/cel-code-0-a-2999474/
Two long one fast is 21.. Based on the list below it should be your V-TEC control solenoid.. axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
Does obd one store old codes? Because my check engine light turns on then right back off. If I stop the engine with the light on will I be able to read it?
My check engine light is lit when I shut the engine off around 00:47 and then I'm able to read trouble code 14 with the ignition on but engine off.. So yes, the code(s) must be stored..
I have a 96 Accord (non US variant, so still using OBD1), the Check Engine light turns off/disappears when the car and engine is turned off and on again. Basically, the CEL does not stay ON. Would doing this still spit out the code? I guess the better question is does it keep past triggered codes? The car should be turned off before shorting the pins, right? Doing that and turning the key to the ON position, I imagine the fault has already been "cleared" (?). The concern is it may not be giving me the codes related to the problem causing the CEL to turn on.
My check engine light doesn't come on until I have traveled two or three miles. How do I check the codes if it doesn't come on with the key turned as you have a demonstrated in this video? 1990 acura integra. Tia!
I don't know from experience but yes, the process should be very similar.. This link may help:www.acuraworld.com/index_files/diy/unproc/integra/obd1.html
We have the same car sort of. Mine is a European (German) model. Have you ever determined if there is an adapter for the ODB1 scan connector? I have an ODB2 scan tool and of course the connectors don't mesh.
OBD1/OBD2 adapters are available.. But from what I've read not all OBD2 scan tools can read OBD1 codes.. www.amazon.com/OBD2-Connector-Diagnostic-Adapter-HONDA/dp/B0053NRSN6#customerReviews
If you have a 1995 or older honda you have OBD1 which means you count flashes of the check engine light.. If you have 1996 or newer you should have OBD2 and need a code reader to plug into your OBD2 port to then get your trouble code(s).. Flashing D4 usually means transmission related issue.. www.justanswer.com/honda/bb06g-i-ve-1995-accord-d4-light-blinking-i-ve.html
yes.. based on this list trouble codes 0,11 or 14 may indicate bad ecu/ecm.. axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
Buenas tardes amigo tengo un honda legend año 1992 y tiene una luz de motor encendida fija, me preguntan que tipo de conector lleva para ponerle el escanber y no se donde lo tiene, si me puede ayudar le agradeceria
i can only speak from experience with my 95 accord.. i've swapped out several junkyard ecu's over the years.. unplug one, plug in the other.. no need for programming.. depending on the make/model/year of car you have, yours may be different..
I have a code 14 for my 95 Del Sol. I replaced the IACV with a New IACV but it still does the same thing.... It's fine idles perfect when you first start it for about 6 or7 minutes... but when it warms up it starts to surge. When I turn on the head lights it stops... anyone know where I can buy a good IACV that doesn't cost $200 Bucks? I bought a cheap one clearly that didnt' work... anyone know a good place to buy one? Thank you!
@@dc-wp8oc Well for mine. What I found out is. Warm the car up, drive it until it starts to surge. Then park it. Open hood. and Unplug the IACV Valve. And if it runs perfectly then you know it's the IACV. It means it's bad. I bought a cheap one from China, $32.00. The good news is, this means you have isolated the problem to the IACV. It lets you know you don't have any gasket leaks etc, which I searched for by spraying for them and let's you know the engine etc. are working fine. So for me I just have to buy a better IACV, probably from Honda but they are expensive from them. The other thing you need to know is you have to completely #1 reset the computer / ECU, #2 then you have to idle the car for 15+ minutes or so until the Radiator fan comes on. So, you want the Radiator fan to come on, then let idle for 15 minutes more after it comes on! Then while it's running, just go for a 10 to 15 minute drive. Just drive normal down the roads and get on the highway for a while too. And it then is set. I did not drive afterwords, cuz I did not know this part, and was told that might be why it didn't' connect properly! So I am going to do this first!! This is probably why it didnt' work correctly. NOTE: TO reset the computer ECU, I was told to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes so the systems, ie stereo, clock etc. have to be reset and are drained... but I did it for 45 minutes and it didnt' completely drain systems. And I noticed they still were set at the right time meaning it did not completely drain the energy from the systems, clock etc... Now here is another way that is probably easier and quicker. Watch this video. #1 Reset Computer / ECU - I am going to do it this way next time (in Video) , then #2 Idle til radiator fan goes on then #3 then let idle for 15 minutes more, then #4 immediately take it for a 10 to 15 minute drive! This should reset it correctly. If you clean your MAF Sensor, you may need to do this. Not sure though! So if you clean your MAF Sensor and it goes funky, you probably need to reset computer this way! Hope this helps! P.s. Do not Rev the engine or touch anything like stereo or lights. In fact I wouldn't get in and out of the car except maybe once after you start it. Here's the Video: ua-cam.com/video/5PWE7f1ERHU/v-deo.html
@@dc-wp8oc I figured it out. Sorry I didnt' find this earlier... it was the idle screw. My former mechanic was playing a lot of games. Loosened up bolts on valve cover, oil pan, poured oil in air intake tube, rubbed it all over the throttle body on the inside and the MAF Sensor... He also completely loosened up the Idle Screw. It was barely hanging all the way out. Surprised it never fell out and lost it on the road... Once I tighten it up it all went away. The other thing I noticed is if you have a slow oil leak, if it gets to low, that can and will also effect your idle...
you need to determine if it's a short or long flash.. short flash would be trouble code 1, long flash would be trouble code 10.. then find code on this list:axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
@@tongo117 I tried the bridge the ECU connector. I do have a SRS light on the dash, but as that is no related to idle/stall issues, I'll look into that later. I turned ignition to 2nd position and, sure enough the SRS light pulsed a code 51 (accident detected), but no other codes. I guess I'll go through the component cleaning steps next.
all i can say is to be sure you are using the two pin connector and also be sure that the wire you are using is firmly seated into the each side of the connector.. a paper clip has always worked well for me because it is rigid and easy to push all the way in.. then turn ignition on to second position but don't start car..
@@tongo117 thanks for the reply another question, i put a reader on it and nothing ever came up. What may be the issue with this? if you have any idea! thanks
Not sure.. Never had that issue.. But I did find a few repair forum threads that may help: honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/solid-check-engine-light-service-connector-jumpered-460808/ honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/94-accord-cel-stays-code-gives-me-no-flashes-just-stays-solid-1729969/
Thanks, I've heard that too about heater core leaks.. My leak was a failed rubber grommet in the passenger side wheel well.. ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
1 short flash? That'd be the o2 sensor, according to the link the uploader provided in the description. axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
Just want to say thank you for explaining the process of reading the codes. I just bought a nice 95 Honda del sol, excited to get things lined out.
You are welcome.. Good luck with yours..
Hey man thanks a lot for that ending, TCU and ECU. Very well explained for noobs like me.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
Very well explained and very useful. Thank you. Greetings from Argentina
Hello Argentina.. Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
Added into my youtube/automotive/honda bookmark folder. Thanx for this.
Glad to help..
Some Hondas had an OBD 2 port as early as 1994. They were always ahead of the curve back then.
Somente v6
Very complete video explaexplanation 🙏🙏🙏
very well explained.🤘🏻
did you ever find out where the water was coming in the floor ? I have a 93 civic same issue.
Yes - ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
Thank you for your videos on how to change out the computer. May it be assumed that as it is not shown or stated - that you do not need to have the newly installed computer - forgive me I cannot recall the correct term so this is what I can think of - to have the newer one "Rebooted" to talk to the car?
This procedure, as you have shown are the ONLY steps to replacing a bad computer so the car will run again as it should?
Thank you!!!
Did you ever figure out what/where the water leak was coming from and why?
I have the same issue and have to keep my (I call my car) skateboard covered up when it rains or it will get drenched depending on how much or hard it rains.
I did find the water leak:ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
And I can't speak for all Accords but with my 95 there's no need to have the "new" used computed rebooted.. Just plug it in and go.. I have this video showing me finding used computers at a salvage yard:ua-cam.com/video/k6cNSNi0R5s/v-deo.html
Do you have any idea, what code 55 is meaning? When it's cold outside, after the 1st start +3 minutes, and the engine stalling. 5 min resting, then starting again, run w/o problem. But I can not find code 55. Type: '99 Honda Hrv 1.6 4WD D16W1 - Thanks!
i have a really bad idle surge in my 93 coupe , would you recommend me getting a new ecu or and air idle valve ?
Tks again, just what I needed! By way, my Honda Accord cruise control stops to work, what would it be, please?
Hello thanks for taking time to explain us for me its kinda stressful to see what happens i have a 93 civic eg and i recently saw that there's some adapters to obd2 so it can be connected that port to the obd2 do u think that would work?thx
No ive tried it unfortunately doesnt work. Each obd is completely different from one another and pre obd2 ecu harnesses are manufacturer specific with their own scanner if im not mistaken.
@@MeandThe93 thanks man for sharing your opinion
great explaining🙌
My EPS light is on when turning on the car all the way (EPS also not working) but when I try to get a code there is no light turning on at all. Any idea?
Good video. Thanks for creating and sharing.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
Did you ever figure out the water situation.I’m having the same issue 🙄(Passenger side by the ECU)
Yes I did.. ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
Hello mate. I'm doing the engine checking light as you did in the video but the light on my civic 1994 remain on (no flashing at all) if I turn on the car, the light still remain on. The engine light just turn off if I remove the jumper. My car run normally, no issues at all for more than 100KM with VTEC in action.
If the light just stays on, does not blink or anything, is that considered code 0 or 1? Thanks for the help in advance ❤
Never had that issue so I did a little research.. If you get a solid check engine light (CEL) after jumping the connector that represents trouble code 0 which could mean your computer (ECU) is bad.. Or, as discussed in this thread, the problem was a weak/discharged battery: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/cel-code-0-a-2999474/
@@tongo117could this also happen if my battery isn’t getting charged by the alternator?
thanks for the info great vid!
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
I want to know how to wire or the wires on my ECU I kind of like looks awful I need to put them back together
Hi I have a question I have a 95 Honda accord ex I did the port test it did 2 long blink and 1 fast could u tell me what code is that thanks
Two long one fast is 21.. Based on the list below it should be your V-TEC control solenoid..
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
@@tongo117 thanks a lot
Does obd one store old codes? Because my check engine light turns on then right back off. If I stop the engine with the light on will I be able to read it?
My check engine light is lit when I shut the engine off around 00:47 and then I'm able to read trouble code 14 with the ignition on but engine off.. So yes, the code(s) must be stored..
hey mate, rover 620 si,1996 model. Our computer is dead. I bought second hand computer but the rover does not accept it. whats your solution?
super helpful, thanks
Hi...maybe you can help my problem..i have ligh code 36 what must i see? Its big problem to my honda? Any idea please
This list shows 36 as a Traction Control issue:
www.hamotorsports.com/chenlicoditr.html
Did you ever figure out what the water leak was on the passenger side? And if you did could you tell me what it was please and thank you.
I did find the leak:
ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
I have a 96 Accord (non US variant, so still using OBD1), the Check Engine light turns off/disappears when the car and engine is turned off and on again. Basically, the CEL does not stay ON.
Would doing this still spit out the code? I guess the better question is does it keep past triggered codes? The car should be turned off before shorting the pins, right? Doing that and turning the key to the ON position, I imagine the fault has already been "cleared" (?). The concern is it may not be giving me the codes related to the problem causing the CEL to turn on.
Hey man was ur car misfiring or hesitant to accelerate I just bought a 94 honda and I changed spark plugs cap n rotor but the car is the same
What the solution how do you fix it
@@kicaumania8056 fuel injectors new
@@abbas674 alright. Thank you g
Great job!
My check engine light doesn't come on until I have traveled two or three miles. How do I check the codes if it doesn't come on with the key turned as you have a demonstrated in this video? 1990 acura integra. Tia!
You can't read the codes unless they present themselves when ignition is on and OBD1 port has been jumped with wire..
Hey I’m having trouble getting the codes to read back not sure what I am doing wrong
Please answer, can you read the codes the same way on a 92 Acura Integra gs ? I think I need to replace the ECU
I don't know from experience but yes, the process should be very similar.. This link may help:www.acuraworld.com/index_files/diy/unproc/integra/obd1.html
Is the same connector used for ABS?
We have the same car sort of. Mine is a European (German) model. Have you ever determined if there is an adapter for the ODB1 scan connector? I have an ODB2 scan tool and of course the connectors don't mesh.
OBD1/OBD2 adapters are available.. But from what I've read not all OBD2 scan tools can read OBD1 codes.. www.amazon.com/OBD2-Connector-Diagnostic-Adapter-HONDA/dp/B0053NRSN6#customerReviews
big help thanks
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
The Transmission D4 was flashing too, where can I read the codes?
If you have a 1995 or older honda you have OBD1 which means you count flashes of the check engine light..
If you have 1996 or newer you should have OBD2 and need a code reader to plug into your OBD2 port to then get your trouble code(s)..
Flashing D4 usually means transmission related issue.. www.justanswer.com/honda/bb06g-i-ve-1995-accord-d4-light-blinking-i-ve.html
so check light also may caused by bad ecu?
yes.. based on this list trouble codes 0,11 or 14 may indicate bad ecu/ecm.. axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
I am trying this but the check engine light just stays on solid. No flashing. Am I doing something wrong?
Not sure. This link may help.. Same issue.. Blown fuse was the problem.. www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/obd1-check-engine-light-on-no-code-honda/
Buenas tardes amigo tengo un honda legend año 1992 y tiene una luz de motor encendida fija, me preguntan que tipo de conector lleva para ponerle el escanber y no se donde lo tiene, si me puede ayudar le agradeceria
pudiste solucionar?
Can i swap it wit a junk yard ecu with out programing? Or do i have to program it after i replace it?
i can only speak from experience with my 95 accord.. i've swapped out several junkyard ecu's over the years.. unplug one, plug in the other.. no need for programming.. depending on the make/model/year of car you have, yours may be different..
Mine did not flash at all
I have a code 14 for my 95 Del Sol. I replaced the IACV with a New IACV but it still does the same thing....
It's fine idles perfect when you first start it for about 6 or7 minutes... but when it warms up it starts to surge.
When I turn on the head lights it stops... anyone know where I can buy a good IACV that doesn't cost $200 Bucks?
I bought a cheap one clearly that didnt' work... anyone know a good place to buy one? Thank you!
Mike...any follow-up on this? Have a 95 Honda showing the same code.
@@dc-wp8oc Well for mine. What I found out is. Warm the car up, drive it until it starts to surge.
Then park it. Open hood. and Unplug the IACV Valve. And if it runs perfectly then you know it's the IACV. It means it's bad. I bought a cheap one from China, $32.00. The good news is, this means you have isolated the problem to the IACV. It lets you know you don't have any gasket leaks etc, which I searched for by spraying for them and let's you know the engine etc. are working fine.
So for me I just have to buy a better IACV, probably from Honda but they are expensive from them.
The other thing you need to know is you have to completely #1 reset the computer / ECU, #2 then you have to idle the car for 15+ minutes or so until the Radiator fan comes on. So, you want the Radiator fan to come on, then let idle for 15 minutes more after it comes on! Then while it's running, just go for a 10 to 15 minute drive. Just drive normal down the roads and get on the highway for a while too. And it then is set.
I did not drive afterwords, cuz I did not know this part, and was told that might be why it didn't' connect properly! So I am going to do this first!! This is probably why it didnt' work correctly.
NOTE: TO reset the computer ECU, I was told to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes so the systems, ie stereo, clock etc. have to be reset and are drained... but I did it for 45 minutes and it didnt' completely drain systems.
And I noticed they still were set at the right time meaning it did not completely drain the energy from the systems, clock etc...
Now here is another way that is probably easier and quicker. Watch this video. #1 Reset Computer / ECU - I am going to do it this way next time (in Video) , then #2 Idle til radiator fan goes on then #3 then let idle for 15 minutes more, then #4 immediately take it for a 10 to 15 minute drive! This should reset it correctly.
If you clean your MAF Sensor, you may need to do this. Not sure though! So if you clean your MAF Sensor and it goes funky, you probably need to reset computer this way! Hope this helps!
P.s. Do not Rev the engine or touch anything like stereo or lights. In fact I wouldn't get in and out of the car except
maybe once after you start it.
Here's the Video: ua-cam.com/video/5PWE7f1ERHU/v-deo.html
@@dc-wp8oc I figured it out. Sorry I didnt' find this earlier... it was the idle screw. My former mechanic was playing a lot of games. Loosened up bolts on valve cover, oil pan, poured oil in air intake tube, rubbed it all over the throttle body on the inside and the MAF Sensor...
He also completely loosened up the Idle Screw. It was barely hanging all the way out. Surprised it never fell out and lost it on the road...
Once I tighten it up it all went away.
The other thing I noticed is if you have a slow oil leak, if it gets to low, that can and will also effect your idle...
I tried this method but the check engine light stays solid
What if my engine light jus shows one flash and nothing else
you need to determine if it's a short or long flash.. short flash would be trouble code 1, long flash would be trouble code 10.. then find code on this list:axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
Having decided to try this, I found your video idiot proof. A question; can I get codes if there is no check engine light?
Good question.. Not sure.. Possibly if there are old, stored codes but no current codes to trip the CE light??
@@tongo117 I tried the bridge the ECU connector. I do have a SRS light on the dash, but as that is no related to idle/stall issues, I'll look into that later. I turned ignition to 2nd position and, sure enough the SRS light pulsed a code 51 (accident detected), but no other codes. I guess I'll go through the component cleaning steps next.
What if the light just stays on constant and doesn’t flash?
Did you find an answer?
@@Thats_Unfortunate I haven’t, just gonna replace the Ecu and try it again.
I got 36 what mean this
My car accord 98
I can't found it
Where can I get a cheap obd1 reader?
Not sure what you consider cheap:
www.ebay.com/itm/124617421828?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
@@tongo117 that works for me thanks bro
Hi im currently trying to use a wire to get the code. my abs light willflash but the check engine light comes on and stay on. help please !
all i can say is to be sure you are using the two pin connector and also be sure that the wire you are using is firmly seated into the each side of the connector.. a paper clip has always worked well for me because it is rigid and easy to push all the way in.. then turn ignition on to second position but don't start car..
PeanutButterMan gotcha thank so much! Much help! Love you channel ! ❤️
does my honda civic 2005 have this?
No.. Your 05 has an OBD2 diagnostic port.. Should be above gas pedal on the right.. www.outilsobdfacile.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Honda-civic-6
@@tongo117 thanks for the reply another question, i put a reader on it and nothing ever came up. What may be the issue with this? if you have any idea! thanks
If steedy the ligths of enguine?
Solid lights
What happens if the check engine light just stays on and dosent flash or anything?
Not sure.. Never had that issue.. But I did find a few repair forum threads that may help:
honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/solid-check-engine-light-service-connector-jumpered-460808/
honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/94-accord-cel-stays-code-gives-me-no-flashes-just-stays-solid-1729969/
ua-cam.com/video/DGlPVybVccg/v-deo.html
Thanks, I've heard that too about heater core leaks.. My leak was a failed rubber grommet in the passenger side wheel well.. ua-cam.com/video/9DzvsAJLJus/v-deo.html
I can't find that on my 92 Integra GS sedan
passenger side under carpet?? honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/location-ecu-92-93-integra-560177/
Did u find it.
Mine is there just tucked under the dashboard I had to remove the glove box
Boyyyyyy dat is cammeddd asf
I got 7 flash
Mine just blind one time what is that??
1 short flash? That'd be the o2 sensor, according to the link the uploader provided in the description.
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Honda-and-Acura-OBD1-Trouble-codes-How-to-read-and-what-they-mean
I tried this method but the check engine light stays solid
ik its a year late i had to turn on the car and it started to read the codes
I tried this method but the check engine light stays solid
Same with my 94 Honda