So I'm watching and saying to myself OMG, how fucking complicated is this, how did he ever figure all this out, and then at 14:58 there's a solved Rubik's cube. 😆 Ok, that explains it...dude you are next level geekdom. Majorly impressed over here!
I used your methods for my lifelines, and the multiple wraps, and zero knots which worked great! Thank you. I did leave a stop knot on the bitter ends, for future adjustments if needed, for tensioning to 20%, using my winch and 4:1 purchase.
Your the best , I had a sailboat for 15 years , it was a 35’ , that was back in 1990’s if i would purchase a boat again I would have synthetic lines not stainless steel cable , but being almost 75 I think a good sail would be ok but not owning a boat again, too much work for me now ! I really enjoy your videos.
Nice videos, just got myself my first sailboat and need to replace the rigging quite soon and plan to fo it with dyneema instead. Where did you get the splicing tools from? Cant see to find any similar.
This may be a dumb question...but instead if the chafe sleeve, couldn't I just put a pool noodle over the whole bottom 5 feet? Or wrap it in hockey tape? Something replaceable in case it gets damaged.
You want something with low friction so the sail slides up and down easily. Hockey tape is high friction, so avoid that. Let me know what works out for you and how you like it! We are all learning together :)
You got it. The other eye is up the mast and not in an area that gets chafed so it wasn’t necessary to do. You can do it up there as well if you desire, the process would be the same.
At the bends for the lock, the splice will be a little weaker there and if pushed to the breaking point, it will break there. Simply upsizing your line diameter so that it doesn’t get pushed to the breaking point is the easy solution that lets you have a splice that can’t shake out accidentally.
do you have to use timbles, i was prepared to change one shroud and one stay, but when i got the mast down- it all have to be replaced-i have enough line and chafe sleeve for the eyes. small boat 4mm line...
The thimbles help keep the eyes open. If the eyes are too tight, the line will actually break from the stress of the sharp turn. The thimble keeps the turn smooth and that makes it last a lot longer, otherwise the eye will be the first place it will break. (The thimbles are super cheap at 4mm)
The issue is the Dyneema core isn’t the right kind of Dyneema. You want to use either heat set Dyneema or DM20, both only come as single braid. If you found a fiber with the correct core material, you then need to take into account that the measurement of the line is the outside diameter including the cover. You would need to get a sample and measure the core to size it accordingly. If you come across a double braid that is made with DM20, please let me know because I would love to use it 😉
Yes, but sometimes they are just a bit too wide to fit in the appropriate toggle. A bit of finessing will help it slip into the toggle 😉 Closed thimbles also look a lot prettier!
At minimum, the size of thimble to match the diameter of the stay. The size of the stay depends on a bunch of factors related to the strength needed to support the rig.
![DYNEEMA [Part 4]: Installing Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pVzHyC2EqoY/mqdefault.jpg)
![DYNEEMA [Part 4]: Installing Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
![DYNEEMA [Part 2]: Measuring Your Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8mG2MDXQmUU/mqdefault.jpg)
Really clever with the end to end fids to open up the hole!
So I'm watching and saying to myself OMG, how fucking complicated is this, how did he ever figure all this out, and then at 14:58 there's a solved Rubik's cube. 😆 Ok, that explains it...dude you are next level geekdom. Majorly impressed over here!
🤓 thanks!
I used your methods for my lifelines, and the multiple wraps, and zero knots which worked great! Thank you. I did leave a stop knot on the bitter ends, for future adjustments if needed, for tensioning to 20%, using my winch and 4:1 purchase.
Another winner, Herby! Gonna crank up your "Charm City Chewers" YT channel anytime soon? 👍👍👍
We have to be back in charm city for that one! It’ll be soon :)
Your the best , I had a sailboat for 15 years , it was a 35’ , that was back in 1990’s if i would purchase a boat again I would have synthetic lines not stainless steel cable , but being almost 75 I think a good sail would be ok but not owning a boat again, too much work for me now ! I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks!
At that age, Maddie and I want a trawler because it’s less lifting (at least we think it will be less lifting)
I enjoyed the process. I followed along until the end. I wish you would've shown it finished. Interesting 👍
That’s the next episode ;)
You know these are my favorite, Doctor!!! ❤️👍⛵️
Yay! I’m glad you like them
Great video! very useful. Thanks!
You are welcome
That is pretty sweet. When will you sail the Alberg to Bermuda?
Once it’s done ;)
💥 Quite brilliant really 👍
Sorry if you already covered this but can you use dyneema with a roller furler?
Good Teaching
Thank you
Nice videos, just got myself my first sailboat and need to replace the rigging quite soon and plan to fo it with dyneema instead. Where did you get the splicing tools from? Cant see to find any similar.
This is the set that I have: amzn.to/3rBjy4n
Where did you find the cover material. Thanks. Btw been using your dyneema vids. Incredibly helpful. Thanks
Glad they are helpful!
I bought the dyneema cover at West Marine. It’s called the “chafe sleeve” by New England Ropes.
Great video, thanks! Maybe I missed it, but what was the reason for not using pre-sheathed dyneema?
Dyneema comes in a few different molecular styles and the pre sheathed ones are not the right one for standing rigging
Hey Herb
Great video... perhaps I will be doing this soon.
What material are you using for the chafe cover?
Herb Silva it’s more Dyneema. The product is made by New England Ropes and is called “chafe sleeve”
Great series! Where do you prefer to get the sailmakers thimbles?
West Marine. I like the ones from Ronstan, they are beautifully polished and have no sharp edges to cause concern.
This may be a dumb question...but instead if the chafe sleeve, couldn't I just put a pool noodle over the whole bottom 5 feet? Or wrap it in hockey tape? Something replaceable in case it gets damaged.
You want something with low friction so the sail slides up and down easily. Hockey tape is high friction, so avoid that.
Let me know what works out for you and how you like it! We are all learning together :)
Did I miss something in this video, or was there only one eye with chafe protection around the thimble?
You got it. The other eye is up the mast and not in an area that gets chafed so it wasn’t necessary to do. You can do it up there as well if you desire, the process would be the same.
so do you still use bronze hanks or do you have something that is kinder to your stay?
Dyneema soft hanks for the sail to attach to the synthetic stay.
Does the lock weakens the splice?
In what proportion?
At the bends for the lock, the splice will be a little weaker there and if pushed to the breaking point, it will break there. Simply upsizing your line diameter so that it doesn’t get pushed to the breaking point is the easy solution that lets you have a splice that can’t shake out accidentally.
I need to replace the forestay on my 20' trailer sailer. Do I use the same diameter Dyneema as the existing SS? Is there a rule of thumb?
Cheers.
It’s a bit of math. Email me (riggingdr@gmail.com) your stays diameter and I can calculate the ideal Dyneema diameter
You say you need to bury 25-1/2". That's dependent upon the diameter of your line, isn't it?
9mm line × 72 = 64.8cm = 25.5in?
You got it. Smaller line is less length and thicker line is longer, but all x72 (in mm)
do you have to use timbles, i was prepared to change one shroud and one stay, but when i got the mast down- it all have to be replaced-i have enough line and chafe sleeve for the eyes. small boat 4mm line...
The thimbles help keep the eyes open. If the eyes are too tight, the line will actually break from the stress of the sharp turn. The thimble keeps the turn smooth and that makes it last a lot longer, otherwise the eye will be the first place it will break. (The thimbles are super cheap at 4mm)
@@RiggingDoctor okay, yes you are right- patience is important in these matters- dont like being de-masted, all the loose ends... thank you
@@RiggingDoctor the thimbles were cheap, got to keep the eyes open....
are those 3/8" (9mm) thimbles? Were did you find those thimbles?
They are West Marine house brand stainless steel thimbles.
Why not use a Dyneema cored line with sleeve instead of going thorugh the sleeve process?
The issue is the Dyneema core isn’t the right kind of Dyneema. You want to use either heat set Dyneema or DM20, both only come as single braid.
If you found a fiber with the correct core material, you then need to take into account that the measurement of the line is the outside diameter including the cover. You would need to get a sample and measure the core to size it accordingly.
If you come across a double braid that is made with DM20, please let me know because I would love to use it 😉
Closed thimbles would be stronger?
Yes, but sometimes they are just a bit too wide to fit in the appropriate toggle. A bit of finessing will help it slip into the toggle 😉
Closed thimbles also look a lot prettier!
So is dyneema always a single braid?
The ones you use for rigging is
What diameter line and what size sailmaker's thimble?
At minimum, the size of thimble to match the diameter of the stay. The size of the stay depends on a bunch of factors related to the strength needed to support the rig.