Make sure to change the O-ring on the oil pick up tube. It can wear down over time and cause oil pressure issues. It's less than $5 and more importantly, it's accessible.
This was very helpful because I wasn't sure if I needed to drop the rack and pinion assembly. Once I did the pan came off easily. I took the pan off to replace the oil pump which was failing, so that's how I found the u-tube clip. Since I have 345 thousand miles on my 2002 GMC Vortec I expected to find the sludge that you found. I also have used synthetic oil since new and change the oil every 4 to 7 thousand miles. but the inside of the pan was free of sludge and I only found a few deposits of grit at the bottom of the pan. Hence I agree with you someone failed to service your motor..
I had the same leak now after 215,000 miles in my suburban 2002, I been doing my own oil change in 10 years Mobil 1 synthetic, I'm the second owner i bought this chevy in 2005 with 51,000 miles on, I can't wait to see how locks inside the pan, THANK YOU
This video was great and helpful. I followed your directions to the letter. I have 2002 and there were a few variations between 01 to 02 but I was able to figure those out. I just finished today. I haven't added oil back yet cause a wanted the permatex to set over night. I just need to add my starter and the job should be complete. Thanks for the information
Thank YOU! I am part way through the disassembly process & was very confused and frustrated. I think you just made my life a lot easier. I will let you know how it goes...
Logged in specifically to personally thank you for this video. Thank you very very much. Tremendously useful info. My 01 silverado mixed the coolant with the oil last week and I'm doing a forensic exam on it right now. Took the oil pan off real nice thanx to this video. So very glad I did. There was a TON of oil sludge / mud in the bottom of the pan! Gonna clean it all real good. Thank you thank you thank you so much again. Awesome.
This video helped me tremendously! The same thing I had to do by dropping the steering rack. I put in a new pan because a shop stripped the drain plug and it had a oil leak from a section of the gasket. Thanks for your help.
Glad it helped. Thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience. Sucks that they stripped the plug...seems like they would know not to over torque the drain plug.
Thanks for your video! Huge help for replacing the gasket. The only issue I had was over tightening some of the bolts to the oil pan. What a mess.. I hope this will help anyone else with the same problem. Attached is a page for torquing down the bolts, hope this helps!
I didn't read all the comments. But if you ever do a pan gasket on an LS type engine, ALWAYS change the oil pickup tube O-ring. They get dried out, brittle and are notorious for leaking and dropping oil pressure.
Yes, And there are a couple different ones. Trucks used a different o-ring than the car engines did. It goes where the pickup tube mounts into the oil pump on the front of the engine.
I'd HIGHLY recommend changing oil pump pick up tube o-ring while pan is down. That was cracked and dried up for me when I checked it out. The cracked oring can cause pump to suck air resulting in lower pressure.
The absolute best way to clean that pan is gas and a nylon brush! Just make sure it's a safe, well ventilated area. It breaks that sludge up so easily and it just runs right out.
Wow! Thanks for sharing your work - very good work IMHO. I don't think I will attempt this job on my 2005 GMC SIerra until I get experience, a house with. garage and the tools.
Thanks to your video, gave me confidence and I just finished up doing the same thing to my 2002 2500HD 2WD Gas Vortec 6.0L155k Miles. Only thing in the way was that cross member, censor and some hose clamps. I had to call my nephew over to help me install the oil pan. Those 2 rivets scared me when I took the drill to them. Worried I was going to ruin the pan. I wish you would've showed the bolting pattern when tightening the bolts. Thanks for posting the video.
I used brake cleaner and gunk engine degreaser and most of it came right off. I unscrewed those screws inside the pan and removed that plate thing. It really helped when I degreased the inside of the oil pan. I didn't wash the inside with soap and water I just let it air dry real well before I put everything back together.
Thanks, this really helps. The comments from all as well, especially the comment of it only costing 350 to have dealer do it. Calling now. But seriously- video is really good.
Just so you know it is stated on the Fel-pro box that it is a DRY gasket….This means NO sealant should be used…. Installed many of the gaskets with no leaks…. Thanks for the video…..
Thanks for the info does this mean at the 2 areas near the front of the pan where it meets the timing cover as well as the 2 areas in the back that also meet up against a cast iron piece of the crank case? No gasket sealant whatsoever?
We had to remove the starter motor for clearanice but got the pan out last night. Spending the day cleaning and putting it back in this afternoon. Dry flywheel so hopefully rear main is good then.
I logged in just to hit the like button and to say thanks. I am going to have to do this as well and was searching the net for info on what I could expect. I might change my rear main seal while I am in there and change over to a high volume oil pump while I have it apart. Again thanks alot.
I am happy I found this video too!! I bought my truck used and it runs great but I have some lifters that tick for a few mins after starting but I've notice a lot of gunk on the oil plug when changing the oil. I have no leaks right now but worried about what's inside since I bought it used. Even though I have no leaks, should I risk self creating leaks doing this or just flush it a couple more times with motor medic or sea foam?
Don't put anything in your oil pan besides oil, by attempting to clean it this way if you loosen up some of the sludge or whatever it is in the bottom of the pan you risk getting sucked into the orifice tube and into the oil pump or maybe it plugs up somewhere in the engine and now you have no oil going to something that's supposed to have oil going to it AKA engine failure
Good job and thanks for sharing. One thing I would add to this would be to clean out the oil pick up tube, it was really clogged, and taking and soaking that screen in carb cleaner would make this project almost perfect.
Just cnanged my O-ring on the oil pick up tube, I had as much muck in the bottom of mine as well, changed oil every 5K, I just dumped fuel in the pan and went at it with a brush. Did this several times and it came out almost perfect-
FYI, a friend was having a lifter noise and after new lifters twice he found out the noise was caused by a faulty o ring on oil pump pick up tube! Thanks
Using petrol or desiel to clean the pan, works better then the break cleaner, also won't have to use as much as you just fill the pan up a lil . Make sure to clean out the petrol after
very helpful came here to see what was up with them two rivettes holding mine on, thanks for the explanation, the best way to clean grease is with simple cheap dish soap, it works really well, you can also help it with steel wool , I can't believe all that sludge in a 13 year old "modern" car, I know whit is 5 years later but I sure hope you pulled the rocker covers off and inspected your heads, I bet they are nasty
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts. I don't have that truck anymore. I traded it in and picked up a 14 Silverado. Almost exact same truck with just some updates to the electronics and computer. I had that GMC for 14 years, figured it was time to update.
How many miles, to have the degree of buildup? Mine has 300k, nowhere near like that. Changed synthetic & filter 5k. Brake cleaner and scotch brite as you indicate. Replaced oil sump pickup tube "O" ring, a frequent cause of low oil pressure.
Thanks for stopping by. I don't have that truck any more but I believe it was around 170K. I had been crazy busy with work so I had my wife take it to a local shop for that last 4-5 oil changes (I typically do 3 to 4 per year). I always used Mobil 1 synthetic as well as the mobil 1 filter. I can't prove the cause for certain but upon looking at the last filter, it seemed clear to me that the filter was not changed when the oil was. I should have changed the pick up tube O ring as that would have helped with pressure for sure.
@@RoughRidersTV Thanks for your reply. I had never dropped an oil pan, not certain what to expect. Surprised, clean overall, thanks to synthetic. I'll try attaching the dufuzer plate. I have 300k
That sludge build up isn't from lack of filter changes. It was caused by a coolant leak inside the engine. The glycol in the coolant will mix with the oil, creating the sludge and the water simply evaporates off. I would be willing to bet that you have the 706 head castings manufactured by Castech. Pretty much all of the heads they manufactured for GM have cracked around the bolt holes under the valve covers.
Interesting. Thanks for the comment. I never had an issue of low coolant in that truck. I would have expected to see that if I had a coolant leak into the engine block. But good to know. I am fairly confident though that the shop wasn't changing the oil filter as I had marked the filters when I change them out and found that a filter from one of my last oil changes was still on there. Unless they marked it the same and use the same branded filter, it seems they were not changing like they should have and was included in the oil change description.
green Scotch Brite pads are said to leave metallic flakes and tear up engine internals. I forgot where I read that but never use them inside the engine.
I'm pretty sure the front axles nees to be removed on the 4x4 trucks to be able to get the pan out. yes the crossmember definitely needs to be removed. I need to do mine on a 2001 5.3 4wd. just making sure I have all the necessary tools and equipment. I plan on spending at least an hour to clean to pan and gasket surface. I may just make it a 2 day plan so i can take my time and do it correctly.
You don't have to remove the axle shafts or the CV assemblies. You do have to remove the bolts that mount the Front Diff to the Frame and the two bolts/nuts on the RH axle tube where it mounts to the Frame. Then the diff will drop down enough to get the pan out. The cross-member needs to be removed.
Man I hated that part removing the steering rod and other parts I don't know why they didn't build it easy like the older Chevys, and I have same problem oil pan leaking again
I would like to see how to actually put the pan back on. I have heard that the alignment is critical, and that GM/Chevy have an alignment tool. Do you have a video showing that part?
Good job and thank you for making this video. It was nice to have a heads up on everything that needs to be removed to access all the pan bolts. Do you by chance remember the bolt tightening sequence and/or torque?
+Jay Taylor Caution using some degreasers like Mean Green and the like. Some attack aluminum and actually dissolve the metal. Read the labels carefully before you use them.
Sorry for the late response. Most of it was the same. Removing the steering cross member was a HUGE help. After driving it for awhile I'm sad to report I still have a leak. Either I did something wrong or its the rear main seal. Dont think it's the latter as the flywheel didn't have any oil on it. Maybe got the gasket dirty when putting it back on? What kind of RTV did you use and where?
Some of the pans have a long screw going through the middle, so if you took off all your side screws off and it won’t come off, then that’s probably why .
I didn't use ramps so not sure. I would not expect it to make any difference because you are not breaking down the suspension nor are you disconnecting the steering. You are just dropping the rack enough to give yourself some room to remove the pan.
I was told by a mechanic that they had to lower the 4wd system in order to get the pan out which is why he quoted me $400 to change the gasket. I was thinking about doing it myself but after watching this video I'm having 2nd thoughts. Will wait for winter to come here to Arizona then decide.
Matt Dudester I'm in Arizona too. I was thinking the same thing. way too hot to be out there doing this. But it sucks having a leak. mine is getting oil everywhere on the underbody of my truck.
Nice job, how many miles were on the engine? My 2001 Tahoe was loaded with the black jelly stuff. I change my oil and filter about every 3-4000mi and use synthetic oil. Had about 158,000 on it. That black jelly was choking the oil supply in the sump and the upper end was clanking. After a rebuild its quiet as a sleeping baby now....here is my post with photos on chevytahoeforum- chevyforum.org/chevy-forums/showthread.php?t=29051
Did you tighten back the steering rack in any specific way? We placed it back as normal but my brother says it now steers weird. He says it sometimes over steers or under steers. May those need specific torque tightening?
This was several years ago so I don't remember specifics. But I don't remember doing any pattern on the steering rack, just the oil pan. There really wasn't much room for that rack to slide either way. Given the age of the truck, I would check the steering knuckles, tie rods, etc. to make sure those are solid. While not a truck, my daughter's Nissan front end was toast and I had to replace most of that stuff up front.
Purple Power (OReillys) degreaser works good as does Zep 505 degreaser (HomeDepot). Should have cleaned the pick up screen very well as that can cause lower oil pressure
Hmm, that is odd. It should not make a difference. Did you move the steering wheel or wheels while unbolted? I did not have any issue like that nor has anyone else that I have seen. Is the alignment off? When you drop the rack, you are not actually changing the internal gear alignment.
@@RoughRidersTV I had some trouble dropping the rack. I had to move it slightly to one side for it to drop. I think that moved the steering wheel and I didn't notice it until everything was put back together.
@@bigabescanal2799 If you removed the pinch-bolt that clamps the steering shaft to the rack's splined input shaft, and it separated when you dropped the rack down, that would explain your steering wheel being off-center. Think in reverse order of what you did and you'll figure it out. If you don't know what you're doing, you can damage the SRS 'clockspring'/spiral-cable that carries power/ground to the Airbag deployment 'squib' and your cruise, radio function switches on your steering wheel.
I noticed, you had jacks on your lower A arms, did you move them when you removed the cross member? Im concerned that there might be load on in if the suspension is compressed.
Sorry, I did this job years ago. i don't remember the specific pattern. It was listed in a manual I found online. I think it was from the inside bolts working in a cross pattern out.
Had the same thing happen to me. I was getting a bunch of the same sludge in my oil. Very noticeable when doing oil changes. Fixed the problem by adding radiator sealer to the radiator. This fixed the problem with the sludge.
You should not use any stop leak or sealants in any part of your vehicle ever, by doing so you run the risk of clogging up the orifice tube or a channel or anything along those lines and that's going to lead to more expensive repairs and it failing prematurely. That leak in a can shit doesn't work and only causes more problems...... If you got a crack or hole in something just replace it believe me I know I found out the hard way.
It did need to pressure back up on the first start but nothing out of the ordinary. I should have cleaned out or changed the pickup tube as part of it.
You also have to remove your sway bar bolts on the rack in pinion are too long and wont slide out the sway hit the bolts sliding out it’s where I got stuck watching these you tube video sometimes people edit their videos and watching there’s video some times some parts are a little different even the clips an 06 might not have the same clips as an 03 or 06 ss
Thanks for the tip. I shot this on my phone and could not hold the phone and do the work at the same time so I couldn't show each step being done. I now have a better setup to do recordings like this but tips like yours are always useful. Thanks for sharing.
AndHossable I would stay away from ramps or any jack stand that are placed on the control arms. Just my thought that due to the crossbar being removed it might be under tension or compression in those cases. I used jack stands on both sides on the main body frame just behind control arms and did not have any issue removing the crossbar.
Why in the world would you not change out that pick up tube and o-ring tube seal in a 2001 with obvious deposits ? Even in a newer vehicle always change that tube o-ring.
+Jay Taylor thanks for the video very helpful...I also have the Haynes manual and I see a lot of people asking about that bolt pattern and it is inside out..there is another video on UA-cam someone did for this very same job and I think he shows the bolt pattern but not for curtain...as someone stated above it is recommended to change the pick up o ring just so everyone knows..thanks again Jay 5 stars
+Jay Taylor thanks for the video very helpful...I also have the Haynes manual and I see a lot of people asking about that bolt pattern and it is inside out..there is another video on UA-cam someone did for this very same job and I think he shows the bolt pattern but not for curtain...as someone stated above it is recommended to change the pick up o ring just so everyone knows..thanks again Jay 5 stars
Jay, Did you have a drip pattern on your drive? I think my gasket has had it... My friend tightened the bolts and that helped a bit. But I am not sure the rear main isn't leaking as well.
+Jay Taylor - I was looking at your video looking for oil on your staring ring and it was dry - what lead to you changing the rear main? I am thinking I need to do the pan. I wonder about the rear main. Especially if I have all the stuff removed to get to the oil pan.
@@NissenAutomotiveAngier Thanks for sharing. As I don't own the 4.8, wasn't sure if there were any differences so it's good to know that this process will work for that motor as well.
@@jimmydiaz7024 You need to find out where the leak is coming from. Could be a sign of a more serious problem. How fast are you losing coolant? How does the oil look?
I thank You for taking the time simply out of YOUR BUSY SCHEDULE, RESOURCES,EFFORT,BEAUTIFUL CAMERA FOOTAGE,AWESOME ILLUSTRATION,WHAT YOU BROUGHT TO THE INTERNET BRILLIANT,SOME GREAT,WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE,BROTHER!!! I FIND IT IRONIC ITS SO EASY TO CRITICIZE SOMEONE AFTER YOU'VE DONE ALL THE HARD WORK!!! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK,AND CONTINUE TO SHARE YOUR TALENTS WITH THE WOLD BE BLESSED,YOURS TRULY,CRAIG-MAC
You should have used diesel gas to clean your oil pan. It probably would have went 10 times faster. I just did mine in diesel gas it brakes that down really quick with a little wire brush.
SR , DID YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL PUMP ? IT SEEMS LIKE A GOOD IDEA AND I BET THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE PUMP HAD TO WORK A LITTLE HARDER DUE TO LACK OF LUBRICATION!! ANY IDEA WHAT CAUSED IT , I HEARD SOME PEOPLE SAID ITS DEXCOOL COOLANT!
Having to drop the rack is bullshit.... it's what's been holding me back from changing mine out cuz my truck is my only vehicle and I'm not going anywhere until it's put back together once I get going....
@@RoughRidersTV I hear ya... but it's still a giant pain in the ass to have to drop that, remove frame bars and all sorts of connections just to change a dang gasket..... especially with no garage or paved driveway. It's a whole lot of nonsense for something that should be a lot easier.... especially with all the room on a pick up. The engineers screwed us on this one.... hard.
It took about a day but that was because I didn't have any guidance and had to sort it all out and I was also filming it all so I was stopping to get shots, explain stuff, etc. If I had to do it again, I could probably do the entire job in 3 hours or so.
There's some stuff called awesome at the dollar store it's a yellow colored juice and it works better than any degreaser out there on the market I promise you that. My dad when I was a younger kid brought me with him on a job and this lady wanted me to detail her BMW m5 I made the mistake of using awesome full strength on her leather-wrapped center console needless to say it took the gray out of the leather......Oops
Make sure to change the O-ring on the oil pick up tube. It can wear down over time and cause oil pressure issues. It's less than $5 and more importantly, it's accessible.
This was very helpful because I wasn't sure if I needed to drop the rack and pinion assembly. Once I did the pan came off easily. I took the pan off to replace the oil pump which was failing, so that's how I found the u-tube clip.
Since I have 345 thousand miles on my 2002 GMC Vortec I expected to find the sludge that you found. I also have used synthetic oil since new and change the oil every 4 to 7 thousand miles. but the inside of the pan was free of sludge and I only found a few deposits of grit at the bottom of the pan. Hence I agree with you someone failed to service your motor..
thank you very much this made me have the confidence to do this myself instead of paying the dealership 350 bucks to do it. thanks Again
I had the same leak now after 215,000 miles in my suburban 2002, I been doing my own oil change in 10 years Mobil 1 synthetic, I'm the second owner i bought this chevy in 2005 with 51,000 miles on, I can't wait to see how locks inside the pan, THANK YOU
I realize it's been over 5 years since you've added your comments, however just wondering how clean it was in the pan?
Well?
This video was great and helpful. I followed your directions to the letter. I have 2002 and there were a few variations between 01 to 02 but I was able to figure those out. I just finished today. I haven't added oil back yet cause a wanted the permatex to set over night. I just need to add my starter and the job should be complete. Thanks for the information
Thank YOU! I am part way through the disassembly process & was very confused and frustrated. I think you just made my life a lot easier. I will let you know how it goes...
Glad it helped. How di the it go for you?
Logged in specifically to personally thank you for this video. Thank you very very much. Tremendously useful info. My 01 silverado mixed the coolant with the oil last week and I'm doing a forensic exam on it right now. Took the oil pan off real nice thanx to this video. So very glad I did. There was a TON of oil sludge / mud in the bottom of the pan! Gonna clean it all real good. Thank you thank you thank you so much again. Awesome.
This video helped me tremendously! The same thing I had to do by dropping the steering rack. I put in a new pan because a shop stripped the drain plug and it had a oil leak from a section of the gasket. Thanks for your help.
Glad it helped. Thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience. Sucks that they stripped the plug...seems like they would know not to over torque the drain plug.
Thanks for your video! Huge help for replacing the gasket. The only issue I had was over tightening some of the bolts to the oil pan. What a mess.. I hope this will help anyone else with the same problem. Attached is a page for torquing down the bolts, hope this helps!
Where is the link
I didn't read all the comments. But if you ever do a pan gasket on an LS type engine, ALWAYS change the oil pickup tube O-ring. They get dried out, brittle and are notorious for leaking and dropping oil pressure.
This whats called the oil pump seal?
Yes, And there are a couple different ones. Trucks used a different o-ring than the car engines did. It goes where the pickup tube mounts into the oil pump on the front of the engine.
Johnny L thanks for the heads up. no fun to do it twice.
Thanks for that, I did that when I did my gasket and it completely fixed my low oil pressure when the engine is cold!
Johnny L thanks for the help
I'd HIGHLY recommend changing oil pump pick up tube o-ring while pan is down. That was cracked and dried up for me when I checked it out. The cracked oring can cause pump to suck air resulting in lower pressure.
Thanks for posting this video. I'm doing the same job on my truck tonight. Same as yours just a 4.8 with 221K miles.
The absolute best way to clean that pan is gas and a nylon brush! Just make sure it's a safe, well ventilated area. It breaks that sludge up so easily and it just runs right out.
Glad you did a video my 2002 Avalanche was leaking slowly and didn't know what to do so thanks
Wow! Thanks for sharing your work - very good work IMHO. I don't think I will attempt this job on my 2005 GMC SIerra until I get experience, a house with. garage and the tools.
Thanks to your video, gave me confidence and I just finished up doing the same thing to my 2002 2500HD 2WD Gas Vortec 6.0L155k Miles. Only thing in the way was that cross member, censor and some hose clamps. I had to call my nephew over to help me install the oil pan. Those 2 rivets scared me when I took the drill to them. Worried I was going to ruin the pan. I wish you would've showed the bolting pattern when tightening the bolts. Thanks for posting the video.
I used brake cleaner and gunk engine degreaser and most of it came right off. I unscrewed those screws inside the pan and removed that plate thing. It really helped when I degreased the inside of the oil pan. I didn't wash the inside with soap and water I just let it air dry real well before I put everything back together.
Thanks, this really helps. The comments from all as well, especially the comment of it only costing 350 to have dealer do it. Calling now. But seriously- video is really good.
Just so you know it is stated on the Fel-pro box that it is a DRY gasket….This means NO sealant should be used…. Installed many of the gaskets with no leaks…. Thanks for the video…..
Thanks for the info does this mean at the 2 areas near the front of the pan where it meets the timing cover as well as the 2 areas in the back that also meet up against a cast iron piece of the crank case? No gasket sealant whatsoever?
@@drwombat absolutely yes.! You need gasket sealer on those 4 spots.
We had to remove the starter motor for clearanice but got the pan out last night. Spending the day cleaning and putting it back in this afternoon. Dry flywheel so hopefully rear main is good then.
I logged in just to hit the like button and to say thanks. I am going to have to do this as well and was searching the net for info on what I could expect. I might change my rear main seal while I am in there and change over to a high volume oil pump while I have it apart. Again thanks alot.
1993 GMC Sierra.
I am happy I found this video too!! I bought my truck used and it runs great but I have some lifters that tick for a few mins after starting but I've notice a lot of gunk on the oil plug when changing the oil. I have no leaks right now but worried about what's inside since I bought it used. Even though I have no leaks, should I risk self creating leaks doing this or just flush it a couple more times with motor medic or sea foam?
Don't put anything in your oil pan besides oil, by attempting to clean it this way if you loosen up some of the sludge or whatever it is in the bottom of the pan you risk getting sucked into the orifice tube and into the oil pump or maybe it plugs up somewhere in the engine and now you have no oil going to something that's supposed to have oil going to it AKA engine failure
Good job and thanks for sharing. One thing I would add to this would be to clean out the oil pick up tube, it was really clogged, and taking and soaking that screen in carb cleaner would make this project almost perfect.
Just cnanged my O-ring on the oil pick up tube, I had as much muck in the bottom of mine as well, changed oil every 5K, I just dumped fuel in the pan and went at it with a brush. Did this several times and it came out almost perfect-
Just got mine changed out, watched your video first and it was a big help, THANKS!!
Nice job. take off the low oil sensor, then use pressure washer, or take it to manual car wash. clean well.
FYI, a friend was having a lifter noise and after new lifters twice he found out the noise was caused by a faulty o ring on oil pump pick up tube! Thanks
Thanks for the info!
Using petrol or desiel to clean the pan, works better then the break cleaner, also won't have to use as much as you just fill the pan up a lil . Make sure to clean out the petrol after
Yes , I used diesel oil also and drained the sludge back into my waste oil container.
very helpful came here to see what was up with them two rivettes holding mine on, thanks for the explanation, the best way to clean grease is with simple cheap dish soap, it works really well, you can also help it with steel wool , I can't believe all that sludge in a 13 year old "modern" car, I know whit is 5 years later but I sure hope you pulled the rocker covers off and inspected your heads, I bet they are nasty
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts. I don't have that truck anymore. I traded it in and picked up a 14 Silverado. Almost exact same truck with just some updates to the electronics and computer. I had that GMC for 14 years, figured it was time to update.
How many miles, to have the degree of buildup? Mine has 300k, nowhere near like that. Changed synthetic & filter 5k. Brake cleaner and scotch brite as you indicate. Replaced oil sump pickup tube "O" ring, a frequent cause of low oil pressure.
Thanks for stopping by. I don't have that truck any more but I believe it was around 170K. I had been crazy busy with work so I had my wife take it to a local shop for that last 4-5 oil changes (I typically do 3 to 4 per year). I always used Mobil 1 synthetic as well as the mobil 1 filter. I can't prove the cause for certain but upon looking at the last filter, it seemed clear to me that the filter was not changed when the oil was. I should have changed the pick up tube O ring as that would have helped with pressure for sure.
@@RoughRidersTV Thanks for your reply. I had never dropped an oil pan, not certain what to expect. Surprised, clean overall, thanks to synthetic. I'll try attaching the dufuzer plate. I have 300k
That sludge build up isn't from lack of filter changes. It was caused by a coolant leak inside the engine. The glycol in the coolant will mix with the oil, creating the sludge and the water simply evaporates off. I would be willing to bet that you have the 706 head castings manufactured by Castech. Pretty much all of the heads they manufactured for GM have cracked around the bolt holes under the valve covers.
Interesting. Thanks for the comment. I never had an issue of low coolant in that truck. I would have expected to see that if I had a coolant leak into the engine block. But good to know. I am fairly confident though that the shop wasn't changing the oil filter as I had marked the filters when I change them out and found that a filter from one of my last oil changes was still on there. Unless they marked it the same and use the same branded filter, it seems they were not changing like they should have and was included in the oil change description.
green Scotch Brite pads are said to leave metallic flakes and tear up engine internals. I forgot where I read that but never use them inside the engine.
I'm pretty sure the front axles nees to be removed on the 4x4 trucks to be able to get the pan out. yes the crossmember definitely needs to be removed. I need to do mine on a 2001 5.3 4wd. just making sure I have all the necessary tools and equipment. I plan on spending at least an hour to clean to pan and gasket surface. I may just make it a 2 day plan so i can take my time and do it correctly.
You don't have to remove the axle shafts or the CV assemblies. You do have to remove the bolts that mount the Front Diff to the Frame and the two bolts/nuts on the RH axle tube where it mounts to the Frame. Then the diff will drop down enough to get the pan out. The cross-member needs to be removed.
Man I hated that part removing the steering rod and other parts I don't know why they didn't build it easy like the older Chevys, and I have same problem oil pan leaking again
Thank you for the video it was all I needed to have a nice new oil pan gasket
huge help with the steering rack... thank you!
Great video I have never seen sludge like that. I would have cleaned that pick up tube
Thanks. Yes, it was pretty bad and you are right, I should have cleaned up that pick up tube as well.
I would like to see how to actually put the pan back on. I have heard that the alignment is critical, and that GM/Chevy have an alignment tool. Do you have a video showing that part?
There is a tool for the pan!
Good job and thank you for making this video. It was nice to have a heads up on everything that needs to be removed to access all the pan bolts. Do you by chance remember the bolt tightening sequence and/or torque?
Kerosene works best for oil cleanup.I use it every time I clean or change gaskets.
Thanks for the tip.
Pb blaster
Did you remove the starter motor? Haines manual says to but unless I missed it I haven't seen it on any video.
What are the black plastic plates by the starter called? And what is purpose for them? It looks like mine are broken... I have a decent oil leak...
try Mean Green next time to clean all the gunk out the pan that work for me without any doubt. nice video by the way
+Jay Taylor Caution using some degreasers like Mean Green and the like. Some attack aluminum and actually dissolve the metal. Read the labels carefully before you use them.
Gas n wire brush will this off
Sorry for the late response. Most of it was the same. Removing the steering cross member was a HUGE help. After driving it for awhile I'm sad to report I still have a leak. Either I did something wrong or its the rear main seal. Dont think it's the latter as the flywheel didn't have any oil on it. Maybe got the gasket dirty when putting it back on? What kind of RTV did you use and where?
Where can I find the torque sequence? Or is it just one of those standard "start in the middle and clockwise out" deals?
Some of the pans have a long screw going through the middle, so if you took off all your side screws off and it won’t come off, then that’s probably why .
I highly recommend changing the oil after this..
For sure. Also recommend not trusting quick lube type shops. I think that is what led to some of the problem.
@@RoughRidersTV it was a joke my man 😂
@@RoughRidersTV and yes never go to those places unless u personally know someone that works there that will take care of your vehicle
Gracias amigo un saludo desde Mexico
De nada. Gracias por mirar.
Will it being on ramps matter when you drop steering rack??
I didn't use ramps so not sure. I would not expect it to make any difference because you are not breaking down the suspension nor are you disconnecting the steering. You are just dropping the rack enough to give yourself some room to remove the pan.
@@RoughRidersTV alrighty thank you
I believe if it is a 4wd you may have to take off the diff bolts and lower it down to slide the pan off.
I was told by a mechanic that they had to lower the 4wd system in order to get the pan out which is why he quoted me $400 to change the gasket. I was thinking about doing it myself but after watching this video I'm having 2nd thoughts. Will wait for winter to come here to Arizona then decide.
Matt Dudester I'm in Arizona too. I was thinking the same thing. way too hot to be out there doing this. But it sucks having a leak. mine is getting oil everywhere on the underbody of my truck.
Yeah, Arizona sucks
Nice job, how many miles were on the engine? My 2001 Tahoe was loaded with the black jelly stuff. I change my oil and filter about every 3-4000mi and use synthetic oil. Had about 158,000 on it. That black jelly was choking the oil supply in the sump and the upper end was clanking. After a rebuild its quiet as a sleeping baby now....here is my post with photos on chevytahoeforum- chevyforum.org/chevy-forums/showthread.php?t=29051
Where did u put the RTV under the gasket or on the engine corners?
Did you tighten back the steering rack in any specific way?
We placed it back as normal but my brother says it now steers weird. He says it sometimes over steers or under steers.
May those need specific torque tightening?
This was several years ago so I don't remember specifics. But I don't remember doing any pattern on the steering rack, just the oil pan. There really wasn't much room for that rack to slide either way. Given the age of the truck, I would check the steering knuckles, tie rods, etc. to make sure those are solid. While not a truck, my daughter's Nissan front end was toast and I had to replace most of that stuff up front.
@@RoughRidersTV
Gotcha, I'll have a look on those sections.
Thanks for the response, appreciate it.
Purple Power (OReillys) degreaser works good as does Zep 505 degreaser (HomeDepot). Should have cleaned the pick up screen very well as that can cause lower oil pressure
What dose the oil pressure read at a hot idle?
Can this be done with the truck parked on the ground?
I think so but then putting it on on jack stands will give you more space to work and make the job easier.
I put everything back together and now my steering wheel is off centered. How do I fix that?
Hmm, that is odd. It should not make a difference. Did you move the steering wheel or wheels while unbolted? I did not have any issue like that nor has anyone else that I have seen. Is the alignment off? When you drop the rack, you are not actually changing the internal gear alignment.
@@RoughRidersTV I had some trouble dropping the rack. I had to move it slightly to one side for it to drop. I think that moved the steering wheel and I didn't notice it until everything was put back together.
@@bigabescanal2799 If you removed the pinch-bolt that clamps the steering shaft to the rack's splined input shaft, and it separated when you dropped the rack down, that would explain your steering wheel being off-center. Think in reverse order of what you did and you'll figure it out. If you don't know what you're doing, you can damage the SRS 'clockspring'/spiral-cable that carries power/ground to the Airbag deployment 'squib' and your cruise, radio function switches on your steering wheel.
I noticed, you had jacks on your lower A arms, did you move them when you removed the cross member? Im concerned that there might be load on in if the suspension is compressed.
What size are the bolts on the steering rack
Sorry, I did this job so long ago I don't remember.
@@RoughRidersTV 15/16
@@jdel35 Glad you were able to sort it out. Thanks for watching.
Easy Off oven cleaner cuts the sludge, as good as any degreaser. Premium gas works just fine.
Gas or diesel of any grade would work fine
@@joshuabower1326
You'd smell like diesel, for days.
I wouldn't mind that in fact I think someone ought to come out with a cologne that smells like diesel, barbeque or burnt wood
@@joshuabower1326
Not many girls would want someone that smells like diesel fuel or burn wood.
@@ricktaylor3748 fine by me I'm a married man
From start to finish, how long did the repair take? Thanks.
Thank you!!
Instead of using seafoam or many cans of brake cleaner for subborn oil like that, you can use oven cleaner or a powerful engine degreaser.
Oven cleaner can react with aluminum I forget what is in it that does that but would be worth looking into if you really want to use oven cleaner
Damn you didn't change your oil tube pick up O ring?!?!?!?
How exactly again did you get the two rivets out from the gasket and oil pan? I am having the same issue
I drilled them out with a small drill bit.
Thanks for the video .....know what to look for again THANKS!
In what order did you tighten the bolts
Sorry, I did this job years ago. i don't remember the specific pattern. It was listed in a manual I found online. I think it was from the inside bolts working in a cross pattern out.
Hows it holding up? Also what is the torques sequence and specs for the oil pan
I traded the truck in a few years ago. You should be able to find the sequence online. Basically you work from the inner bolts out.
Those gunk and sludge you got there is not normal,your dexcool coolant is leaking from the engine and mixed up with the oil..
Had the same thing happen to me. I was getting a bunch of the same sludge in my oil. Very noticeable when doing oil changes. Fixed the problem by adding radiator sealer to the radiator. This fixed the problem with the sludge.
You should not use any stop leak or sealants in any part of your vehicle ever, by doing so you run the risk of clogging up the orifice tube or a channel or anything along those lines and that's going to lead to more expensive repairs and it failing prematurely. That leak in a can shit doesn't work and only causes more problems...... If you got a crack or hole in something just replace it believe me I know I found out the hard way.
Did you loose the prime on the oil pump after doing this? I did this job and the pump lost its prime
It did need to pressure back up on the first start but nothing out of the ordinary. I should have cleaned out or changed the pickup tube as part of it.
I have used gasoline before and it takes the gunk right off. That or purple power and a scrubby. (used gloves and appropriate ppe)
Thanks for the tip.
Truck still run good? Was this a 2wd? Also, which Permatex gasket maker did you use?
hey what did you use to clean the part of the motor
You also have to remove your sway bar bolts on the rack in pinion are too long and wont slide out the sway hit the bolts sliding out it’s where I got stuck watching these you tube video sometimes people edit their videos and watching there’s video some times some parts are a little different even the clips an 06 might not have the same clips as an 03 or 06 ss
Thanks for the tip. I shot this on my phone and could not hold the phone and do the work at the same time so I couldn't show each step being done. I now have a better setup to do recordings like this but tips like yours are always useful. Thanks for sharing.
Would using rhino ramps to lift my truck be dangerous or bad while doing this?
AndHossable I would stay away from ramps or any jack stand that are placed on the control arms. Just my thought that due to the crossbar being removed it might be under tension or compression in those cases. I used jack stands on both sides on the main body frame just behind control arms and did not have any issue removing the crossbar.
Why in the world would you not change out that pick up tube and o-ring tube seal in a 2001 with obvious deposits ?
Even in a newer vehicle always change that tube o-ring.
Oil pressure was fine but it's a fair point if you are that far in, might as well get it done too.
Jay- Why did you remove the front tires?
Thanks. Just wondering if there was more to it.
Do you have the bolt pattern for the pan available or where can I find it
+Jay Taylor thanks for the video very helpful...I also have the Haynes manual and I see a lot of people asking about that bolt pattern and it is inside out..there is another video on UA-cam someone did for this very same job and I think he shows the bolt pattern but not for curtain...as someone stated above it is recommended to change the pick up o ring just so everyone knows..thanks again Jay 5 stars
+Jay Taylor thanks for the video very helpful...I also have the Haynes manual and I see a lot of people asking about that bolt pattern and it is inside out..there is another video on UA-cam someone did for this very same job and I think he shows the bolt pattern but not for curtain...as someone stated above it is recommended to change the pick up o ring just so everyone knows..thanks again Jay 5 stars
Jay,
Did you have a drip pattern on your drive?
I think my gasket has had it... My friend tightened the bolts and that helped a bit. But I am not sure the rear main isn't leaking as well.
+Jay Taylor - I was looking at your video looking for oil on your staring ring and it was dry - what lead to you changing the rear main? I am thinking I need to do the pan. I wonder about the rear main. Especially if I have all the stuff removed to get to the oil pan.
Great video!
Great video. Thanks.
You are welcome. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
maybe its been stated, but oven cleaner on the pan interior
thanks for posting
Hey would you know if 4.8 is the same way?
Unfortunately, I don't.
Identical
@@NissenAutomotiveAngier Thanks for sharing. As I don't own the 4.8, wasn't sure if there were any differences so it's good to know that this process will work for that motor as well.
Odd question but what more would I need to do if the dexcool is leaking in the oil??
@@jimmydiaz7024 You need to find out where the leak is coming from. Could be a sign of a more serious problem. How fast are you losing coolant? How does the oil look?
thats awesome thanx fr the video
I thank You for taking the time simply out of YOUR BUSY SCHEDULE, RESOURCES,EFFORT,BEAUTIFUL CAMERA FOOTAGE,AWESOME ILLUSTRATION,WHAT YOU BROUGHT TO THE INTERNET BRILLIANT,SOME GREAT,WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE,BROTHER!!! I FIND IT IRONIC ITS SO EASY TO CRITICIZE SOMEONE AFTER YOU'VE DONE ALL THE HARD WORK!!! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK,AND CONTINUE TO SHARE YOUR TALENTS WITH THE WOLD BE BLESSED,YOURS TRULY,CRAIG-MAC
You should have used diesel gas to clean your oil pan. It probably would have went 10 times faster. I just did mine in diesel gas it brakes that down really quick with a little wire brush.
Thanks for the tip. I will most certainly keep that in mind should I need to tackle this job again.
SR , DID YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL PUMP ? IT SEEMS LIKE A GOOD IDEA AND I BET THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE PUMP HAD TO WORK A LITTLE HARDER DUE TO LACK OF LUBRICATION!!
ANY IDEA WHAT CAUSED IT , I HEARD SOME PEOPLE SAID ITS DEXCOOL COOLANT!
The oil pump on this engine is on the front.
yes ,but to remove the pump you need to drop the oil pan !
I do not believe the oil pan needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pump.
IS THERE SOME REASON FOR SCREAMING.
Having to drop the rack is bullshit.... it's what's been holding me back from changing mine out cuz my truck is my only vehicle and I'm not going anywhere until it's put back together once I get going....
It really wasn't that bad. It was only a few bolts, just dropped enough to get the pan clear.
@@RoughRidersTV I hear ya... but it's still a giant pain in the ass to have to drop that, remove frame bars and all sorts of connections just to change a dang gasket..... especially with no garage or paved driveway. It's a whole lot of nonsense for something that should be a lot easier.... especially with all the room on a pick up. The engineers screwed us on this one.... hard.
@@MyBigThing2010 I don't disagree. It was a stupid design for sure which makes the job more complex than it should be.
Thanks for the help
what brand of seal gasket is that buddy?
Fel-Pro
b 12 IS THE BEST cleaner in the best.
for oil cleaning
How long did this job take
It took about a day but that was because I didn't have any guidance and had to sort it all out and I was also filming it all so I was stopping to get shots, explain stuff, etc. If I had to do it again, I could probably do the entire job in 3 hours or so.
very good
Thanks you where very helpful ;
is it true it takes about 9 hours for this, a mechanic told me this
Absolutely not maybe two hours tops
the best stuff is 9.99 a gal at home depot called Industrial Purple Cleaner and Degreaser by ZEP. Killer shit if you don't have a shop parts washer.
***** wear gloves its really strong and works best if you let it soak in.
There's some stuff called awesome at the dollar store it's a yellow colored juice and it works better than any degreaser out there on the market I promise you that. My dad when I was a younger kid brought me with him on a job and this lady wanted me to detail her BMW m5 I made the mistake of using awesome full strength on her leather-wrapped center console needless to say it took the gray out of the leather......Oops
Just use purple power to clean the pan and hose it out. No need to get fancy with chemicals
How long this this take you?
+Jay Taylor - Thanks.
oil pump for chevy silverado 4.8liter
Coz the manufacturer suggested to put some on the corners ive seen so many vids of ppl whos doing the same job they r adding som RTV on corners😭😭😭
Yep. Just something to hold the gasket in place. You don't really need the RTV as a gasket itself.
Is this 4x4?
No, this was a 2WD. I am not sure if the 4WD was the same or not.
I know this was posted a year ago but for others the 4x4 is more involved since you have the 4x4 parts in the way.