I've had mixed results with air layers in the past and not so good results with Japanese Maples in particular. This year my luck has changed. In mid May I made an air layer on my Acer palmatum 'Seiryu' right below a 3 branch junction. After cutting the ring of bark off, I carefully made several 1/4" vertical slits above the ringed section (right where you want the roots to come out) then I added some diluted root hormone. The vertical cuts add more places the cambium can be exposed to root hormone and will eventually callous and bulge faster. They say general rule of thumb to start checking your air layer for roots is 6 weeks, my Seiryu air layer had several roots by week 5 and now at 11 weeks, the moss/perlite mix in the little pot I put around it dries out and I have to water it every day because it has so many roots. I need to cut it off the parent plant and pot it up. Oh and this happened without a greenhouse or any misting system, but then again it gets pretty humid here near Cincinnati, OH (zone 6a) in summer, so I'm sure that helped.
Nice "new" trees. I have made 6 Air layering on 2 varieties of palmatum. The common one, has 3 out of 3 success. Waiting for the other one after August to look out. Hope It Will go well at least 2 of them and one Will be the thickest one.
The thing I don't understand about air layering is this: if you cut around the bark and prevent any nutrients getting from the roots to the branch, what is the essential difference to simply cutting off the branch and treating it as a large cutting?
This was a fantastic episode! Thanks for sharing all the decisions you made and why. Is the leaving a branch with two nodes to get smaller growth where you want it closer to trunk a JM trait or most deciduous trees?
Can be applied to a lot of trees TBH. Anywhere you expect excess growth and node length to be a problem. I have always done the same thing while cutting back sacrifice branches on JBP also. The last node bleeds off a lot of the overly vigorous growth, then you later remove it in favor of another bud that's closer in. It can backfire (e.g. no buds inside.) but generally when trees are so vigorous, it works well.
Great to see this, thanks for sharing. I did one about the same time you did these. I used the same method and can see some roots. The question is… when can I remove this seeing I don’t have a greenhouse to put it in. I live in Georgia and not sure what the after care on this maple should be. This was my first attempt. Thanks much! Take care and God bless.
Those turned out great!! I tried the plastic pods this season starting mid May with sphagnum moss and have had a tough time keeping them evenly moist. I also bought and used a Koyo air layer tool to ring the bark. Still waiting on visible roots. I wish I had a green house and a misting system! 😅 I’m trying on a standard green palmatum, a pixie, aoyagi, and geisha gone wild.
Hey Matt I have a 'Geisha Gone Wild' also. I was successful this year with my Seiryu air layer. Check out my other comment if interested. I don't have a greenhouse either and I had roots within the first 5 weeks. Either way, I recommend using Perlite with chopped sphagnum I've even rooted Japanese Black Pine air layers with that mix. 30% or so perlite.
Actually, I'm using the equivalent of Japanese bathtub caulk. The properties of cut sealant are generally that some stay soft, while others get hard. A couple types have hormone added to increase callusing. Some come in a tube, others in a small tub - the latter being more like a putty. I think Jonas' summary on his sales page is probably the most helpful: store.bonsaitonight.com/collections/supplies/products/cut-paste?variant=40879170191510
Thanks for the suggestion. That's a tough video to do, but we'll give it a try. There may be no more deceptively complicated topic than watering bonsai.
I’ve read that late summer/fall harvested air layers generally shouldn’t have root work done to them upon harvesting or the following spring. Is that if you don’t have infrastructure like heating mats or a greenhouse? Or is it moot advice?
Good point. We'll see! I haven't done enough to know. What I know is that cuttings need to grow new leaves before winter to increase survival. I would guess this is similar, but less critical. The greenhouse aftercare is a key survival element in my mind.
I am sure you would have answered this question but the table you use would be fabulous for me as I have difficult health stuff to deal with. I’m also in Australia 🇦🇺 so I may be limited to finding it anyway. But if you could share the info about it would be much appreciated 🪴
The round table is a Green-T bonsai work table. green-t.info/ I also use "apple boxes" which are standard size boxes made of plywood used in film and photo production. That is what I'm leaning on in the thumbnail photo. The Green-T table comes in a few different options, and the "Plus" model is actually much more adaptable than the one I use.
Actually, what I've been using is literally bathroom tile caulk. But, good wound sealant is something that can help overcome the natural tendencies of a plant. Check this listing for more info: store.bonsaitonight.com/products/cut-paste
Just took my first Japanese Maple air layer yesterday. Almost like watching your kids be born.
I have literally just removed my first ever successful Maple air layering. Can’t wait to see how it develops.
How’s it holding up?
Thank you for your your great videos. 🙏
The 2nd air layer looks great, I see a lot of potential to it, well done 👌
Nice sharing videos
Finally,beautiful bonsai 💚 all green🤔💚tree trunk,branches,leaves🤔
Love this video
20:10 Beatuiful looking tree. Well done. Thanks for the video.
Very informative series on air layering….👍
I am just about to start one in a small pot. Hope it goes well
I've had mixed results with air layers in the past and not so good results with Japanese Maples in particular. This year my luck has changed.
In mid May I made an air layer on my Acer palmatum 'Seiryu' right below a 3 branch junction. After cutting the ring of bark off, I carefully made several 1/4" vertical slits above the ringed section (right where you want the roots to come out) then I added some diluted root hormone. The vertical cuts add more places the cambium can be exposed to root hormone and will eventually callous and bulge faster.
They say general rule of thumb to start checking your air layer for roots is 6 weeks, my Seiryu air layer had several roots by week 5 and now at 11 weeks, the moss/perlite mix in the little pot I put around it dries out and I have to water it every day because it has so many roots. I need to cut it off the parent plant and pot it up.
Oh and this happened without a greenhouse or any misting system, but then again it gets pretty humid here near Cincinnati, OH (zone 6a) in summer, so I'm sure that helped.
Nice "new" trees. I have made 6 Air layering on 2 varieties of palmatum. The common one, has 3 out of 3 success. Waiting for the other one after August to look out. Hope It Will go well at least 2 of them and one Will be the thickest one.
Congratulations,nice work!!
The thing I don't understand about air layering is this: if you cut around the bark and prevent any nutrients getting from the roots to the branch, what is the essential difference to simply cutting off the branch and treating it as a large cutting?
The wood transports water after the cambium is removed, so it’s like a cutting with a built in nutrient source to push more growth.
This was a fantastic episode! Thanks for sharing all the decisions you made and why. Is the leaving a branch with two nodes to get smaller growth where you want it closer to trunk a JM trait or most deciduous trees?
Can be applied to a lot of trees TBH. Anywhere you expect excess growth and node length to be a problem. I have always done the same thing while cutting back sacrifice branches on JBP also. The last node bleeds off a lot of the overly vigorous growth, then you later remove it in favor of another bud that's closer in. It can backfire (e.g. no buds inside.) but generally when trees are so vigorous, it works well.
Great to see this, thanks for sharing. I did one about the same time you did these. I used the same method and can see some roots. The question is… when can I remove this seeing I don’t have a greenhouse to put it in. I live in Georgia and not sure what the after care on this maple should be. This was my first attempt. Thanks much! Take care and God bless.
Those turned out great!! I tried the plastic pods this season starting mid May with sphagnum moss and have had a tough time keeping them evenly moist. I also bought and used a Koyo air layer tool to ring the bark. Still waiting on visible roots. I wish I had a green house and a misting system! 😅 I’m trying on a standard green palmatum, a pixie, aoyagi, and geisha gone wild.
Hey Matt I have a 'Geisha Gone Wild' also. I was successful this year with my Seiryu air layer. Check out my other comment if interested. I don't have a greenhouse either and I had roots within the first 5 weeks.
Either way, I recommend using Perlite with chopped sphagnum I've even rooted Japanese Black Pine air layers with that mix. 30% or so perlite.
solid !
Hi, great video as usual. I’m curious as to what kind of cut paste u use for ur maple bonsai??
Actually, I'm using the equivalent of Japanese bathtub caulk. The properties of cut sealant are generally that some stay soft, while others get hard. A couple types have hormone added to increase callusing. Some come in a tube, others in a small tub - the latter being more like a putty.
I think Jonas' summary on his sales page is probably the most helpful:
store.bonsaitonight.com/collections/supplies/products/cut-paste?variant=40879170191510
please do watering technique video on summertime .. thank
Thanks for the suggestion. That's a tough video to do, but we'll give it a try. There may be no more deceptively complicated topic than watering bonsai.
Water on the fingers helps to avoid the paste sticking to the fingers
I’ve read that late summer/fall harvested air layers generally shouldn’t have root work done to them upon harvesting or the following spring. Is that if you don’t have infrastructure like heating mats or a greenhouse? Or is it moot advice?
Good point. We'll see! I haven't done enough to know. What I know is that cuttings need to grow new leaves before winter to increase survival. I would guess this is similar, but less critical. The greenhouse aftercare is a key survival element in my mind.
I am sure you would have answered this question but the table you use would be fabulous for me as I have difficult health stuff to deal with.
I’m also in Australia 🇦🇺 so I may be limited to finding it anyway.
But if you could share the info about it would be much appreciated 🪴
The round table is a Green-T bonsai work table. green-t.info/
I also use "apple boxes" which are standard size boxes made of plywood used in film and photo production. That is what I'm leaning on in the thumbnail photo. The Green-T table comes in a few different options, and the "Plus" model is actually much more adaptable than the one I use.
What's the white coloured medium you put into the air-layers when potting?
Perlite.
@@Bonsaify oh OK. Many thanks 👍
What soil mix did you use for the new air layered tree?
Here are the soil mixes we use:
ua-cam.com/video/jaTZHXKPFeU/v-deo.html
I've air layered various trees, not been successful with a Japanese maple yet.
What wound sealant do you use?
Actually, what I've been using is literally bathroom tile caulk. But, good wound sealant is something that can help overcome the natural tendencies of a plant. Check this listing for more info:
store.bonsaitonight.com/products/cut-paste
@@Bonsaify lol. Way to improvise
👍👌🙂