RTM Mould - Making the first mould (PART2/4)
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- Опубліковано 25 гру 2021
- Hi everyone!
Welcome to this new series of videos (4 In total)
All about making an RTM mould to produce composite parts in a fast way.
Through these adventures I'll take you to the final result of making an RTM Fiberglass mould and making parts out of it.
RTM moulding is something I haven't done yet and always wanted to try one day. The big advantages of RTM moulding is that you get a good surface on both sides of the parts. It also makes it possible to produce parts in a faster way, due to the fact that you don't need to apply any vacuum supply and bags. Another advantage is a reduction of waste that is created using the regular technique of VARTM resin infusion.
If you want to watch my first video again (cringe):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tosb...
If you want to watch the video where commented on my first video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU5t7...
The video series is separated in 4 Parts:
The video series is separated in 4 Parts:
1. Finishing the master with Pattern Coat from @Easy Composites Ltd and getting it mould ready: • RTM Mould - Finish Par...
2. Creating the base-mould out of uni-mould tooling resin and solving some issues I had with the mould: • RTM Mould - Making the...
3. Creating The fiberglass RTM topmould by first making a carbonfiber part out of the basemould: • RTM Mould - Creating N...
4. Creating parts with the RTM mould: • RTM Mould - Creating C...
*In Previous video's:
Back in the days (more than 7 years ago I started working with composites) At school we had a sample mould and so decided to use it to make my first steps into composites and resin infusion VARTM. Back then I was way less experienced and watching that video over again, I saw a lot of room for improvement. This is why I decided to redo this video but taking everything next level to challenge myself a bit.
I'll take you through the steps of using one of the parts (fiberglass and polyester resin) I've made back then and get everyting ready for making a new mould. First step is removing any paint that I've put back then on the part (It was a 1K rattle spraycan paint) that might cause any problems with the gelcoat. Sanding the part also made sure that any residue like dust, oil, silicones, glue was removed from the part so we could start fresh.
*In this video:
Easy lease (chemical release agent) from easy composites was used to have a good release at the end. In this video I'll use the uni-mould tooling system from easycomposites. It's a 3 part system to make moulds consisting out of a gelcoat, coupling coat, tooling resin.
The gelcoat (black) was applied by brush. Mix your gelcoat with hardener MEKP in a ratio between 1%-2% depending on your wishes. Temperatures and amount mixed might cause the gelcoat to cure faster or slower. a general rule is to mix 600g/m² area to cover. So if necessary mix it in 2 batches to have enough time to apply it properly in a thin layer over your entire mould.
The second coat to apply is the Coupling coat. The coupling coat will make sure you have a good bond between your gelcoat and tooling coat that will follow after this layer. About the same amount of the gelcoat that you've used before is mixed with 1-2 percent of MEKP hardener. Use a 100g chopped strand to cover the entire mould with the coupling coat resin. Use a roller to evenly spread the resin, remover airbubbles and tightly fix it to your gelcoat.
After the coupling coat is cured but still tacky you can proceed to the next step using the tooling resin. The way you apply it is the same as using the coupling coat. The few differences are the amount that you'll need and the chopped fiber reinforcement (400g/m²) apply 3-4 coats over your entire mould and let it cure. Work in small areas you'll focus on to avoid having your resin go in an exothermal reaction.
Once the mould was made, I was a bit dissapointed with the result. I had a few wrinkles but everything was fixed using the following steps. Fix your gelcoat mistakes (watch seperate video on my channel) To fix the big area Glass Cast 50 was used and poured over the entire surface after making the mouldbox.
Once done you can sand and polish the mould to a high gloss. Ideally using 400P,600P,800P,1000P sanding grit (depends on personal preferences) Then polish the mould. Apply release agent and your ready to start making your parts.
For all products used, check www.easycomposites.co.uk
they now also have a .eu website for european customers!
For more of my projects
Make sure to follow me on:
Facebook: / mat2composites
Instagram: matthieu.libeert
twitter: @matthieutje65
web: www.mat2composites.com
#Mould #Easycomposites #Carbonfiber - Навчання та стиль
Love the fillet tools
It's a great simple piece of equipment indeed! 😀
amazing
Super matthieu 👍vivement la suite
Haha merci ! A la prochaine !
Man, I love the roll of sandpaper! I need this in my shop, always hate digging to find what grit I need/want.
those are pretty handy indeed, they are from mirka, they have a soft backing so easy to sand curved areas, only downside is they don't last very long with carbonfiber, but that's with most sandpapers I guess
@@MatthieuLibeert I'm going to see if I can locate some over here, I need rolls of sand paper in my life! and agree sandpaper doesn't last very long with carbon, wet or dry!
thanks
Ik ben nog steeds benieuwd naar wat het gaat worden. Mal zo groot, kleine flens rond de Porsche en dan die grote flens aan de buitenkant. SPANNEND
Kom nu maar over de brug met dat derde filmpje
Komt vandaag online om 18u 😉
Salut Matthieu, où as tu eu le moule ? J'aimerais bien le même pour décorer chez moi et je l'aime déjà vu au Campus de Spa Francorchamps, ça vient de là ? :) Super boulot au passage !
Great
Thanks!
14:17 - A most important step many people tend to skip.
O yess big misstake
correct, as I might have mentioned in previous video's, sanding and polishing is a job on it's own. I learned a few things from other on youtube mastering this skill :p
Did you wait for the tooling gel to dry, or did you put the glass down while it was tacky?
the gelcoat has to be firm but still a bit tacky, so it doesn't stick in any way to your finger but leaves a small mark from your finger in the gelcoat
Hi Matt ! Great video. What kind of protective mask do you recommand when mixing and laying epoxy ? Same question when sanding ?
Do you have any reference ?
I use face masks from 3m with A2 filters that are for gasses and fumes
@@MatthieuLibeert thanks ! And approximately how long last your A2 filters ?
@@snooki9 depends on how much you use them 🙂 you should be able to find some data online on when to change them
You can use a cheap filter for sanding, any of the organic vapor 3m /multi gas for vapors. The organic filters will off gas and are reusable granted you don’t clog them with large particulates. Amazon 3m organic vapor filter, the tall ones are the best
Why so damm big flanges?
We see the reason in later videos
It's not a regular mould but a mould that will be used for RTM moulding technique so bigger flanges are needed
What is the differenc between mould ckeaner and aceton?
It's a bit less agressive than acetone, sometimes acetone can ha e some effects on your surface finish or soften some surfaces
Why does everyone use a black gelcoat? If you use a colored one you should be able to see imperfections easier shouldn't you? Love your videos, thanks for your efforts in making them!
Might be easier yes, but the easy composites uni mould system is always with black 🙂
Cake making tool bag
I can't find the video on how you fixed a small ding in your mould :(
It’s in one of this series
I learnt again
That's great! Biggest purpose of making these tutorials is to teach some things to other 🙂
@@MatthieuLibeert i know how rtm works, put just in aluminium milling mould
Jo Matthieu ik heb gehoort dat je nederlands was en heb een vraag over de ender 5 plus zou je een video kunnen maken over hoe je het beste je bedt afstelt want som als ik mijn bedt af stel gaat mijn nozel in mijn bedt zou je mij kunnen helpen alvast bedankt
Ja klopt! Ik heb in het begin het zelfde probleem gehad. Goed dat ik weet dat er hier vraag naar is, zal ik dan ook in my 3d-printing reeks steken. Ik heb vooral eerst gekeken naar wat video's op youtube 'Creality Ender 5 Plus Review: EVERYTHING You Need To Know!' is een goede video om eens te bekijken. Je moet vooral je Z-as goed hebben en je bed helemaal level. Eenmaal dit in orde is zou je geen problemen meer mogen hebben
@@MatthieuLibeert heel erg bedankt!
Why such a gigantic mould for such a small part??
You'll see in the other parts that's its needed to create a good seal with the upper mould