A lot of us watching these videos from this young man will never forget what we have seen . We all know this kind of thing goes on but we're never afforded a way to watch ... thank you for letting us watch in ah .
Lovely hand made part, looks great! Vent hole comes out vertically on top, so water is gonna percolate into the gas tank, also gaskets and dissimilar metal corrosion will be an issue. AND these pointers are not criticisms, they are pointers to help you succeed, not fail. Keep up the great work, you will be phenomenal in 20 years, you are already incredible.
The information you were going off of for getting annealed 6061 back to a T6 state was incorrect. It's a two step process. First, the part has to be heat treated to T4 and then it has to be aged to T6. You get the part to T4 by heating it to about 980° F and holding it there for about an hour. The purpose of this is to dissolve all the alloying elements in a solid solution in the aluminum. Then quickly quench the part in water. The purpose of quenching isn't really to strengthen the alloy, although it does somewhat; it is to cool it rapidly enough to prevent the alloying elements from precipitating on cooling. Next, you get the part to T6 by heating it to 325° - 400° F, so the alloying elements begin to form ordered arrays of atoms in the aluminum matrix. These arrays are called GP zones, and they strengthen the aluminum considerably. This heat treatment is called aging, which results in material with a T6 temper. Three commonly used time/temperature cycles are used for aging-one hour at 400° F; five hours at 350° F; and eight hours at 325° F. All are equally effective. The part is left in the oven and slowly brought back to room temperature. It is now is a T6 state. The part will distort in the heat treatment process. So final machining should be done afterwards. National Pipe Thread is not a good choice for your gas cap. The tread is tapered and is not intended for parts that will be repeatedly taken apart and reinstalled. You have a rubber gasket, so you don't need a tapered thread for sealing. A straight thread would be more appropriate for your application. And, since you have a lathe, you could have easily cut the threads yourself rather than cobbling together sections from pre-threaded parts. There is one final process that you might employ to make your aluminum parts more durable and improve their finish: anodizing. The oxide layer is harder and more scratch resistant than steel, and the parts can be dyed during the process. Aluminum oxide is the most common abrasive because it is so tough.
Have been following the build and think it is wonderful. What I like about this young man is he is clean cut not all tatted up and speaks proper English with no foul language. Your an inspiration to today’s youth.
What's the difference between a kid building a car, and a kid with "tats" building a car? Don't think too hard. I'll tell ya. The only difference is judgmental assholes, looking in from the outside, and thinking they're superior. ...Even though they don't understand how to use a comma or an apostrophe.
Mystery Meat yep I failed every spelling and grammar test in school due to dyslexia but yet I was able to graduate high school. Just because I gave my opinion you think I’m an asshole? Gee I wonder who is being judgmental now!
The gas cap looks great. Looks like it would match knock off wheel "nuts" if that is the route you are thinking of taking. Fantastic work. Really excited to see it finished.
Encore une réalisation exemplaire ! Ce projet est mené par des mains de maître !!! Another exemplary achievement! This project is led by the hands of a master !!!
Amazing amount of thought and effort in such a simple component. Just 2 thoughts; 1) might a gasket or O-ring be a good idea at the neck/tank interface? and 2) with aluminum, brass and carbon steel all in the circuit, which is going to suffer electrolytically?
4 Brass screws or rivits would look amazing on the gas cap insted of iron screws in my opinion, you are doing an amazing job with the build can't wait to see the next vid
Nice work, ironically while watching this video I was wondering how you dealt with plans that don't go according to plan as we never see that. Then low and behold this video was exactly that. You handled it well and cam up with a great solution and kept moving forward...Well Done!
Pretty good planning getting the cap to tighten in that position. FYI, leather was commonly used as a gas cap gaskets, they still sell them for antique motorcycles. Good work.
Vince, another beautiful piece! As a long time subscriber, I am asking you to please make something look difficult for a change so that the rest of us amateurs don’t feel like dumb asses after every episode! Keep up the amazing work.
Cool looking cap. I wonder what type of rubber your gasket is made of. It may not hold up to the chemicals in gasoline. Neoprene is not compatible. Viton and Buna N are. You may want to submerge it in a container of gasoline to see if it will stand up to it.
You may have already checked into it and know but if you still plan to enter into T.R.O.G. or some other competitions with it when your done then you may not be permitted to have an open vented gas cap. Easy solution to keep the beautiful cap might be to tap the small hole on the lower pin to install a grub screw and then add an actual vent line off the tank under the body work that can have a check valve installed.
Great project, been watching from the start. One note though, fuel cells/tanks are NEVER mounted with tabs. They are always strapped in. The tabs are a stress point and with normal vibration and the weight of the fuel sloshing around , the cell will fail and lead to fuel leaks. Any mounting system you use that is welded to the cell , no mater how elaborate, will fail along the weld seem.
Great job, fantastic workmanship. Have you thought about the spark threat especially as the threads are steel to steel? Perhaps brass may have been a better safer option. Just a thought, better safe than sorry.
Amazing project and really love your problem solving skills. It would appear that the threading issue with the aluminum pipe wasn't about being an issue about losing the T6 properties but more on the physical dimension of pipe threads. NPT pipe thread is tapered 3/4" per foot. The section you welded on was undersized. The best solution would be to turn straight threads as found on a bolt. Mixed materials such as steel, brass and aluminum will cause galvanic corrosion issues. I see these type of problems daily as I run a machine shop repairing aircraft landing gear. The greatest thing about this project is that you are doing it, not just dreaming. Keep up the good work..
You should add a roll-bar behind the driver similar to the Shelby Cobra. In my opinion it would go good with the asymmetrical design of the speedster. Amazing Job!!!
Great video as usual. I see that setbacks don't stop you, you just change course and take a different route. One question I have is will this car be licensed for the road when finished.
MacroMachines what series of sheet aluminum do you use for panels. Thickness also. Sounds like you anneal the sheets but I don’t recall you talking about that in earlier videos. Thanks for sharing your project.
@mister clean wow!, thanks for the clarification. Lucky you guys! Over here the vin plate and paperwork stays with the chassis or shell. You can't just make up your own. Very cool! Do the DOT also carry out annual inspections or just roadside too?
@@internetbodhi1009 thanks Scary, appreciate it! I was wondering what I had asked when I got the notification 😂. In the states where the vechicle has to be tested do you have to get an engineers report or is it completly up to the tester to pass it?
I'm asking not telling... Any issues with brass, steel, and aluminum coming into contact with each other? Any issues with these metals reacting to gasoline or the vapors?
Just wondering wouldn't it require a rubber gasket between the two flanges on the fuel tank? Fuel has a habit of expansion when hot and most tanks have a breather system in place
As always another great video of a grate project 👌🔝👍 I think it would be a good idea to put some kind of rubber washer between the aluminum and the metal bolt on cap, because in the end metal will ware out the aluminum, but with all those bolts I’m not 100% on that, sow you choose what’s better just a suggestion 😉👍 Keep the good work and the good video’s coming 😉👍
I wonder if at 5:07 you could have bored to size, making it the same dimension as what the top of the threads would be, then after 5:28-:44 you could have either lathe cut or tapped the needed threads to depth. I did a little Metalshop in HS and college, and that's what occurred (sp?) to me after your comments at the end of the vid. Since your dealing with steel and Alum contacting at 15:56, should you have a washer between the flange surfaces where the brass screws are located? Edit: a little lock-tite would not be amiss on those brass screws.
Beautiful work. Boy that would look good with a flying horse ornament. Then you could show us your casting skills. Incidentally, what's wrong that you didn't choose stainless steel? Then also, is there a chance the vent could suck in water during rain? Just asking.
Hated to see you lose all your beautiful work on the all aluminum gas cap ... it was gorgeous !!! FYI ... from one that has been involved in the construction of the longest running Aircraft Production Program in the history of Powered Flight (the C-130 Hercules - first Flight AUG 1954) and is made to this day in mainly "Aluminum" ... there are ways around your T4 threads. "Dry Film Lube" is a wonderful option (keep in mind that "WD-40" was made for the "Apollo Mercury Spacecraft Program" ... "40" being the 40th attempt) as well as "Anodizing": "Lithium works well if one or both of the is bare . Pretty much any works well if both are anodized . You don't really need to worry about lithium corroding anything, because the lithium is bound-up in a chemical compound and is no longer reactive."And now that you've introduced "Steel" to an Aluminum surface, you've set yourself up for "Galvanic Corrosion" ... next time:"For , a single coat of chrome phosphate pretreatment followed by primer and high-performance paint may effectively . Alternatively, a single field-applied coat of heavy-bodied bituminous paint can be employed. Anodic coatings alone are usually insufficient for separation."Free advice ... here if you need me in the future.
... and I hope and pray your chosen University Degree is in Aerospace Engineering ... we need folks like you to carry it forward ... you've certainly got what it takes !!! Bravo !!!
It looks like you are using the rubber in the cap as a gasket. In your first version, you could have put the threaded parts in the lathe and cut them to full thread depth. The parts you started with were tapered pipe thread. No taper , threads are happy. Great execution on this project.!
I have never seen an aluminum fuel cell that was flange mounted not leak. If you find small cracks developing. You might want to look at a strap mounting situation. Beautiful work so far.
A few things I have learned from doing projects is make it run and drive first. Before you do the electric parts make exhaust because it never fails you will have to cut some panel and manipulate it
So I think you should make the hole in the body a bit bigger and make a cup that seat between the flanges. I think it would give it a great old look but either way you go it going to be awesome. I also think you could brass those 4 screws on the cap like michaelcthulhu does. Heat the part and rub it with brass brush and it makes it look like its brass.
Can I come over for Pizza??!!! Seriously though...Impressive work as always, and the hours of hard work are really going to pay off !!! Hope school is going well for you, and stay safe.
Cap looks great, but if you don't like the look of the steel turn down an aluminum sleeve & epoxy it to the outside of the steel threaded part of the cap, for asthetic reasons only of coarse. Speedster is looking great.
If you had turned the oven off after an hour and left the cap inside so that it cooled slowly you would have achieved the result you were looking for. Nice cap though.
Yeah, (just grabbed my metallurgy book and) aluminium is hardened by heating it up one time, let it cool down slowly. then heat it up again, and slowly let it cool down again. then heat it up another time, but quench it in water. and then heat it up and slowly let it cool down again two more times.
5:22 i still don't get how this type of welding works, surely the whole thing should just melt in to a heap of molten aluminium? or do the alumiweld sticks have a much lower melting point? are they just not aluminium?
Clocking the screw head is a very professional touch well done
A lot of us watching these videos from this young man will never forget what we have seen . We all know this kind of thing goes on but we're never afforded a way to watch ... thank you for letting us watch in ah .
Lovely hand made part, looks great! Vent hole comes out vertically on top, so water is gonna percolate into the gas tank, also gaskets and dissimilar metal corrosion will be an issue. AND these pointers are not criticisms, they are pointers to help you succeed, not fail.
Keep up the great work, you will be phenomenal in 20 years, you are already incredible.
The information you were going off of for getting annealed 6061 back to a T6 state was incorrect. It's a two step process. First, the part has to be heat treated to T4 and then it has to be aged to T6.
You get the part to T4 by heating it to about 980° F and holding it there for about an hour. The purpose of this is to dissolve all the alloying elements in a solid solution in the aluminum. Then quickly quench the part in water. The purpose of quenching isn't really to strengthen the alloy, although it does somewhat; it is to cool it rapidly enough to prevent the alloying elements from precipitating on cooling.
Next, you get the part to T6 by heating it to 325° - 400° F, so the alloying elements begin to form ordered arrays of atoms in the aluminum matrix. These arrays are called GP zones, and they strengthen the aluminum considerably. This heat treatment is called aging, which results in material with a T6 temper.
Three commonly used time/temperature cycles are used for aging-one hour at 400° F; five hours at 350° F; and eight hours at 325° F. All are equally effective.
The part is left in the oven and slowly brought back to room temperature. It is now is a T6 state.
The part will distort in the heat treatment process. So final machining should be done afterwards.
National Pipe Thread is not a good choice for your gas cap. The tread is tapered and is not intended for parts that will be repeatedly taken apart and reinstalled. You have a rubber gasket, so you don't need a tapered thread for sealing. A straight thread would be more appropriate for your application. And, since you have a lathe, you could have easily cut the threads yourself rather than cobbling together sections from pre-threaded parts.
There is one final process that you might employ to make your aluminum parts more durable and improve their finish: anodizing. The oxide layer is harder and more scratch resistant than steel, and the parts can be dyed during the process. Aluminum oxide is the most common abrasive because it is so tough.
As a metallurgical engineer, I approve this post.
Have been following the build and think it is wonderful. What I like about this young man is he is clean cut not all tatted up and speaks proper English with no foul language. Your an inspiration to today’s youth.
What's the difference between a kid building a car, and a kid with "tats" building a car?
Don't think too hard. I'll tell ya. The only difference is judgmental assholes, looking in from the outside, and thinking they're superior. ...Even though they don't understand how to use a comma or an apostrophe.
@@mysterymete well said
Mystery Meat yep I failed every spelling and grammar test in school due to dyslexia but yet I was able to graduate high school. Just because I gave my opinion you think I’m an asshole? Gee I wonder who is being judgmental now!
tracy black calm down. Just chill out. Read a book. Maybe take a nap. Idk what ever floats your boat kid.
Making those screwheads line up is some damn impressive attention to detail
I'm so impressed with this young man. Is there some way we can send him a small contribution for his project?
If he were to set up a patreon, I’m sure it would be very popular
This car is going to be soooo amazing when it's finished
Indeed
That gas cap is a work of art.
This kid is amazing! He does it all !
a gasket on the alloy to steel flange where the brass screw's are might be a good idea,
nice job on the cap,
Some lockwire on those brass screws would look pretty cool.
The gas cap looks great.
Looks like it would match knock off wheel "nuts" if that is the route you are thinking of taking.
Fantastic work.
Really excited to see it finished.
This is one of those simple but strangely satisfying pieces to make. Nice job.
I loved fabricating , but I no longer have access to a lathe. This is cool craftsmanship!
Encore une réalisation exemplaire !
Ce projet est mené par des mains de maître !!!
Another exemplary achievement!
This project is led by the hands of a master !!!
love your work - this series underlines the great value there is in sharing info - seasons best to you 'macro machines'
Amazing amount of thought and effort in such a simple component.
Just 2 thoughts; 1) might a gasket or O-ring be a good idea at the neck/tank interface? and 2) with aluminum, brass and carbon steel all in the circuit, which is going to suffer electrolytically?
4 Brass screws or rivits would look amazing on the gas cap insted of iron screws in my opinion, you are doing an amazing job with the build can't wait to see the next vid
Looking forward to the next video. Everything is so beautifully made, I like it very much!
The aluminum cap piece almost looks diecast. Very nice!
Nice work, ironically while watching this video I was wondering how you dealt with plans that don't go according to plan as we never see that. Then low and behold this video was exactly that. You handled it well and cam up with a great solution and kept moving forward...Well Done!
Pretty good planning getting the cap to tighten in that position.
FYI, leather was commonly used as a gas cap gaskets, they still sell them for antique motorcycles.
Good work.
Nice to see Iam not the only nut case that clocks the screws as for me I do a sun ray pattern with the slot facing outward.
Man I wish I had the skills and tools this guy has. Maybe I'll get there someday
Vince, another beautiful piece! As a long time subscriber, I am asking you to please make something look difficult for a change so that the rest of us amateurs don’t feel like dumb asses after every episode! Keep up the amazing work.
Good job on the retro spinner gas cap lad, looks like it belongs there. You might be young but I think you have an old soul.
What about a sending unit for your fuel gauge? Also would Ni plating those steel parts prevent the possibility of a spark?
Cooks dinner and gas cap
Love this guy
I've really enjoyed watching this video series man. This car is going to be amazing. So jealous of you skills!
amazing work dude! never seen a bad video on this channel
To me there’s nothing more beautiful than brass and aluminum🤗
I really like that you were able to clock the screws hold the handle to the threaded pipe.
beautiful work. I actually prefer the cap with the machine screws in the top. And the brass screws look awesome on that flange.
Loving this build series. Quality work sir.
This project is so good.
Cool looking cap. I wonder what type of rubber your gasket is made of. It may not hold up to the chemicals in gasoline. Neoprene is not compatible. Viton and Buna N are. You may want to submerge it in a container of gasoline to see if it will stand up to it.
You may have already checked into it and know but if you still plan to enter into T.R.O.G. or some other competitions with it when your done then you may not be permitted to have an open vented gas cap.
Easy solution to keep the beautiful cap might be to tap the small hole on the lower pin to install a grub screw and then add an actual vent line off the tank under the body work that can have a check valve installed.
Great project, been watching from the start. One note though, fuel cells/tanks are NEVER mounted with tabs. They are always strapped in. The tabs are a stress point and with normal vibration and the weight of the fuel sloshing around , the cell will fail and lead to fuel leaks. Any mounting system you use that is welded to the cell , no mater how elaborate, will fail along the weld seem.
Well done! Looks like you are having a lot of fun
Can’t wait. It’s really coming together now. 👍
You need to give it a great name! Aluminum Boat-Tailed Speedster just doesn't do the car justice.
Excellent progress
Looks great but what about sparks from the metal on metal?
Super nice.... looks like a lot of hours went into it.
Great job, fantastic workmanship. Have you thought about the spark threat especially as the threads are steel to steel? Perhaps brass may have been a better safer option. Just a thought, better safe than sorry.
Are you worried about the galvanic action between all the different metals?
four aluminum rivets would have been a nice touch, but i definitely like how you clocked all the screw heads!
Amazing project and really love your problem solving skills. It would appear that the threading issue with the aluminum pipe wasn't about being an issue about losing the T6 properties but more on the physical dimension of pipe threads. NPT pipe thread is tapered 3/4" per foot. The section you welded on was undersized. The best solution would be to turn straight threads as found on a bolt. Mixed materials such as steel, brass and aluminum will cause galvanic corrosion issues. I see these type of problems daily as I run a machine shop repairing aircraft landing gear. The greatest thing about this project is that you are doing it, not just dreaming. Keep up the good work..
Are you saying it s aircraft quality
I would nickel those steel parts for sure i love the way this little speedster is turning out well done sir
Oh man I'm excited for the dash and steering wheel. What are you going to do for gauges?
Brilliant job as usual.
You should add a roll-bar behind the driver similar to the Shelby Cobra. In my opinion it would go good with the asymmetrical design of the speedster. Amazing Job!!!
Or D type jag
Very nicely done, young man.
With that vent in the gas cap, what will keep water out of the tank?
how are you going to get the metal shavings out of the tank?
Great video as usual. I see that setbacks don't stop you, you just change course and take a different route. One question I have is will this car be licensed for the road when finished.
Yes, absolutely
@@MacroMachines Its all home made isnt it? how do you licence it without a vin, paperwork etc.? Greetings from Ireland 😀
MacroMachines what series of sheet aluminum do you use for panels. Thickness also. Sounds like you anneal the sheets but I don’t recall you talking about that in earlier videos. Thanks for sharing your project.
@mister clean wow!, thanks for the clarification. Lucky you guys! Over here the vin plate and paperwork stays with the chassis or shell. You can't just make up your own. Very cool! Do the DOT also carry out annual inspections or just roadside too?
@@internetbodhi1009 thanks Scary, appreciate it! I was wondering what I had asked when I got the notification 😂. In the states where the vechicle has to be tested do you have to get an engineers report or is it completly up to the tester to pass it?
I'm asking not telling... Any issues with brass, steel, and aluminum coming into contact with each other? Any issues with these metals reacting to gasoline or the vapors?
Just wondering wouldn't it require a rubber gasket between the two flanges on the fuel tank?
Fuel has a habit of expansion when hot and most tanks have a breather system in place
Gday Mate Is that breather tube allso a visual dip stick.I agree Electrolytically be careful .Great skills and vid.
I vote for gun bluing the steel. Awesome contrast with aluminum.
As always great content. Can I ask why you decided to use bolts rather than using rivets like the rest of the car
because I wanted it to be flush on top, and I wanted to be able to take it apart
Clever boy !!! .Looks grait , wish i knew all these tricks.
As always another great video of a grate project 👌🔝👍
I think it would be a good idea to put some kind of rubber washer between the aluminum and the metal bolt on cap, because in the end metal will ware out the aluminum, but with all those bolts I’m not 100% on that, sow you choose what’s better just a suggestion 😉👍
Keep the good work and the good video’s coming 😉👍
Excellent ! Hello from France.
Spot dog aligning the spinner top. Much finesse
Won't the brass screws seize in the Aluminium ?
I wonder if at 5:07 you could have bored to size, making it the same dimension as what the top of the threads would be, then after 5:28-:44 you could have either lathe cut or tapped the needed threads to depth. I did a little Metalshop in HS and college, and that's what occurred (sp?) to me after your comments at the end of the vid. Since your dealing with steel and Alum contacting at 15:56, should you have a washer between the flange surfaces where the brass screws are located?
Edit: a little lock-tite would not be amiss on those brass screws.
Not to rain on the parade, but a steel cap can spark on a steel pipe. Military always requires brass caps.
I can't wait to see Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fly...
well done professor
great work! keep them coming fella
stuff that I just put it into the CNC cutter too much fluthing around but good to see you giving it a bloody good go
You should consider making some sort of gasket to go between the tank and the part the cap screws into.
fantastic work!
Thanks a lot!
Really nice job you did there, really nice...
Beautiful work. Boy that would look good with a flying horse ornament. Then you could show us your casting skills. Incidentally, what's wrong that you didn't choose stainless steel? Then also, is there a chance the vent could suck in water during rain? Just asking.
I love your videos you work really great!
Hated to see you lose all your beautiful work on the all aluminum gas cap ... it was gorgeous !!! FYI ... from one that has been involved in the construction of the longest running Aircraft Production Program in the history of Powered Flight (the C-130 Hercules - first Flight AUG 1954) and is made to this day in mainly "Aluminum" ... there are ways around your T4 threads. "Dry Film Lube" is a wonderful option (keep in mind that "WD-40" was made for the "Apollo Mercury Spacecraft Program" ... "40" being the 40th attempt) as well as "Anodizing":
"Lithium works well if one or both of the is bare . Pretty much any works well if both are anodized . You don't really need to worry about lithium corroding anything, because the lithium is bound-up in a chemical compound and is no longer reactive."And now that you've introduced "Steel" to an Aluminum surface, you've set yourself up for "Galvanic Corrosion" ... next time:"For , a single coat of chrome phosphate pretreatment followed by primer and high-performance paint may effectively . Alternatively, a single field-applied coat of heavy-bodied bituminous paint can be employed. Anodic coatings alone are usually insufficient for separation."Free advice ... here if you need me in the future.
... and I hope and pray your chosen University Degree is in Aerospace Engineering ... we need folks like you to carry it forward ... you've certainly got what it takes !!! Bravo !!!
It looks like you are using the rubber in the cap as a gasket. In your first version, you could have put the threaded parts in the lathe and cut them to full thread depth. The parts you started with were tapered pipe thread. No taper , threads are happy. Great execution on this project.!
Excellent job my friend.
15:50 I didn't see a gasket when the two parts were screwed together. Does it need one? Thanks.
Yes and no
On a modern car with a charcoal canister
Yes
On this thing with no tank breather
No it'll actually help it
This car is going to be amazing
What was the need of the need to heat treat the gas cap? Why do you need "strength" for a gas cap?
I have never seen an aluminum fuel cell that was flange mounted not leak. If you find small cracks developing. You might want to look at a strap mounting situation. Beautiful work so far.
Wow great work.
A few things I have learned from doing projects is make it run and drive first. Before you do the electric parts make exhaust because it never fails you will have to cut some panel and manipulate it
YOUR SO CLEVER..BRAT.. GREAT JOB
So I think you should make the hole in the body a bit bigger and make a cup that seat between the flanges. I think it would give it a great old look but either way you go it going to be awesome. I also think you could brass those 4 screws on the cap like michaelcthulhu does. Heat the part and rub it with brass brush and it makes it look like its brass.
Can I come over for Pizza??!!! Seriously though...Impressive work as always, and the hours of hard work are really going to pay off !!! Hope school is going well for you, and stay safe.
Nice work👍
Align screw heads radially, no?
How's the engine coming on?
Cap looks great, but if you don't like the look of the steel turn down an aluminum sleeve & epoxy it to the outside of the steel threaded part of the cap, for asthetic reasons only of coarse. Speedster is looking great.
You know your serious when you cooking pizza and heating metal in the same oven.
A work of art.👍
If you had turned the oven off after an hour and left the cap inside so that it cooled slowly you would have achieved the result you were looking for. Nice cap though.
Yeah, (just grabbed my metallurgy book and) aluminium is hardened by heating it up one time, let it cool down slowly. then heat it up again, and slowly let it cool down again. then heat it up another time, but quench it in water. and then heat it up and slowly let it cool down again two more times.
@@jobvdboom5000 that's allot of heating and cooling
@@jobvdboom5000 I don't know if I would have the temper to do that process
Looking Great !
Mmm. Pizza and roasted gascap soup for dinner.
5:22 i still don't get how this type of welding works, surely the whole thing should just melt in to a heap of molten aluminium? or do the alumiweld sticks have a much lower melting point? are they just not aluminium?
It's not welding, more like brazing. I think it has its place for low stress/ hard to reach areas. But it's in no way a substitute for proper welding.