Little correction thanks to patrons pointing it out: ABS isn't actually a high strength plastic like I implied at all, it's just an engineering plastic and stiffer than HDPE. I chose it because it's easily obtainable (the chassis of like 80% of appliances is made from it) though I did some research after the fact and from what I can tell aside from machining its other properties actually make it rather indesirable for wheels like this. PETG would definitely be preferable, maybe even PLA would work. Ultimately though POM or PC would be the way to go.
Definitely turning into the "how else can I abuse my drill press" channel :p But yeah, I watch a few machining channels which inspires me to try it too, except I neither have a lathe nor space to put one :')
Your summary as to WHY you did all of this makes a weird sort of sense! But knowing it to be true by trial and error is always a good lesson to learn. Keep up the exploration and learning and thnaks for taking us along for the journey (which is the best part of reaching the destination)
I only recently realized that that's basically what the series turned into. Originally I really just wanted to build a cool printer, the journey being the destination and all, because I saw all printers were made pretty much the same way. I definitely learned a LOT with this project, and had there been a similar series for me to watch before I embarked on this build, I definitely wouldn't have attempted it 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic I really appreicate the trying new methods, thats what got me into this series, seeing something new done that hasnt been done before, well not like i knew how 3d printers were made, but this is definately eye opening. If you really want to make a cool printer, can you do something cooler then the quadrophile? or what i dunno what he calls it, its a 4 headed printer, and the bed spins! no ones building printers like this... ua-cam.com/users/liveOHKT3F8wGLs?si=EN2t8o8WHEmqPwNC expensive legos? ...why not if its innovative.
I don't know if your audience knew, but a wood frame 3D printer was a buzz in 2014 with Printrbot Simple 1405, like Prusa made the buzz in the community one year later with the Prusa I3, killing the market with reliable printer. The Printrbot simple (wood) was my first 3D printer and I learn a lot about set and manage trouble on printing PETG at the time. Thank you for remind it me to this great time ! Not building my 4th printer all from the ground, CoreXY 500x500x600mm with enclosure !
They had some awesome funky printers in those early days, I wasn't yet present online at the time to witness it, I'd just built my first table saw and was starting to set up shop in the basement 😅 I love the vibes I get from looking up those pioneering designs in retrospect! The Prusa I3 sure is a solid design, yesterday I watched the video about how their printers are made, and possibly their biggest strength is that they *actually* run those machines 24/7 in a print farm to make new parts...
Ah yes, another banger of a video! I think some (only some) rigidity of a new V-roller is added by the fact you mount them with plastic adapter to the correct diameter of bolt, not with wooden screws with no material between id of the bearing and screw Direct drive is certainly a great upgrade, can't wait for X and Y axis motion system video.
Thanks! I dunno, the idea at least was that the countersink head of the wood screw would center the bearing and on the screw and solidly bear the inner race against the washer - which didn't help because those sides are crooked as well 😂 X and Y motion will be the next video, I need to see how well those lead screws work before I take the plunge on my laser cutter and end up with unwelcome surprises again...
It's funny because I'm not really an upgrades type of person, I usually just design and build a better machine based on what I learned since I don't really like having to work around earlier bad design decisions :D
@@lunarz7117 well, I guess it includes the improvement, but I still designed a new machine from scratch which in my case usually ends up totally different.. At least I always thought of an "upgrade" as kind of a band aid, a "hack" to make a previously botched up thing slightly better 😂
It's also very useful as a makeshift milling machine! Just put a dremel style router bit or burr in the chuck and run the workpiece back and forth on the table for some miniature face milling (though preferably clamp the part in a vice for that because small parts especially tend to get caught on the router bit and pull your fingers into it x)
Yep, two bearings are better than one. And if you ever build a lathe or mill, you actually need two pairs of bearings for the spindle. Even expensive bearings always seem to have one point in their rotation where there's just a bit of jiggle, and under heavy cutting forces it causes terrible vibration. But with two at each end of the shaft, one still supports the load when the other crosses its jiggle angle.
That's definitely the next step, though I'm kinda planning to do that mostly off camera and end the series with the printer delivering decent results since I feel this project has mostly run its course. I'd rather make a series building a new, better printer using this one to make the parts...
@@lovecastle7154 good point - I don't like this cheating either, hence why I spent 6 minutes of the video proving that I can machine these parts myself. I just didn't want to do it 16 times, and since I have to integrate the sponsor somehow anyway... But I promise those will be the only third party printed parts on the project.
I am having trouble in printing can u help me when I start printing the flow rate of filament is low and the extruder is unable to push the filament after 20 secand them temparature is 240% and I'm using nema 17 moters nothing is clogged and I have changed the heater also
FDM printers are actually very good at round parts, better than SLA because they are baisically vector drawings stacked on top of each other. I'm pretty sure ABS rollers can be feasibly printed even on this printer prior to this video (still with milled HDPE rollers), if the issue with homing is solved of course.
Honestly I hadn't even thought of that. You're probably right, though I'm not sure the bores for the bearings would've come out round enough without subsequent machining to insert the bearings due to the stairstep motion I was getting with those motors...
23:51 I am not a mechanical expert, but I think the bearings need grease: What you are earing is the ball clicking when going down after rotation. Somebody with more knowledge can confirm ?
I don't, I usually only buy bigger stuff where I need the buyer protection from Amazon since I feel most of the small electronics stuff is the same crap I get on Aliexpress just overpriced... But you already support on patreon, I think that's more than enough 🙈😂
was intending to point you to robert murry smith on youtube........ he has a conductive ink but I don't seem able to get it from his store, link not connecting.
Z-axis steps per millimeter? Since it's an M5 thread with a pitch of 0.8mm and a 48 step/rev motor in halfsteps mode, it's 96 steps / 0.8mm = 120 steps per millimeter of movement
My filament is jamming and not melting everytime I need to pull out the filament and cut a little pic and I need to put it back while printing what do I do the temperature is 230c
@@hum.ortales1753 what kind of printer is it? Extruder? How long is the bowden tube? Is the hotend new? I need information about the printer if I'm supposed to help, there's like a million of variables causing jamming. If it's a 28BYJ-48 extruder with bowden tube it likely doesn't have enough power, that's what happened with mine, it's the reason I'm converting to direct drive.
Marlin? Set Z_HOMING_HEIGHT to 0 in order for it not to raise itself on homing attempt. Ask a friendly neighbourhood contributor to the firmware. (hi) Of course when you do 3-axis homing, you have to manually make sure it's high enough to actually accomplish homing. I could just develop a patch that ignores Z_HOMING_HEIGHT, treating it as zero, if Z is already homed and Z isn't part of homing request. ABS has low abrasion resistance. I am not inclined to use it for rolling surfaces. Indeed HDPE would be one of my choices... so it's unfortunte that it didn't quite work out. Maybe it just needs a more supportive geometry, like you're using this time and unlike you're using last time? HDPE is also fairly chemically stable when heated to the melting point which ABS is not, so a lot can go wrong when trying to recycle ABS. I wonder if that's your bubbles. Or just uncured styrene, i mean butadiene is a known styrene polymerisation inhibitor. Honestly i don't understand ABS, i mean i have a vague idea of the chemistry, i just don't know why it is everywhere, since it's actually sort of bad. If you're ordering your rollers off your kind sponsor, they can just do SLS PA(Nylon) which is one of those materials recommended for this sort of thing. This build is absolutely spectacular. 3D printers with a single bearing wheel exist. Geeetech A10, that one has these V-slot extrusion wheels, but they're different from usual in that they only have one bearing. And with rigid plates holding everything together, it actually works fine.
Hi! Thanks so much, I love getting feedback from the real nerds of the community 😅 I didn't think of getting rid of the homing Z lift that way. I guess for the initial homing of all axes the Z lift command could've easily been hardcoded into the start Gcode. In hindsight I don't know why I thought ABS would be suitable for wheels, I think I get what you say about abrasion resistance from the way it machined. I also did some research after the fact and it said ABS doesn't have a melting point per se, which kind of explains why mine was getting that weird rubbery consistency. I guess HDPE would've totally been fine with the new wheel geometry, I just thought it might be too squishy in the long run and develop flat spots. Now after watching the recent filament wear test video by My Tech Fun I would probably try PET or PETG seeing as it came out as one of the top wear resistant options (I say that ofc without any further research nor ever having worked with it first hand...) Thanks for the heads up about the Geeetech A10, I wonder how they made it work... By using half-decent bearings probably :p
Dang the algorithm must be punishing you, i havnet heard anything and decided to check up and sure enough theres 2 videos i havent watched. All i have to say is keep at it, your good, eventually the algorithm will learn. Cool DIY manufacturing techniques and please ventilate that ABS i hear its pretty toxic, Im working on ventilation system before i print anymore, just a box over the printer with a tube and a fan to blow the air toward a window. Resin looks like the way to go for small accurate parts, they have ones out with 12k resolution now i hear. But thats even more toxic then ABS i hear... Anyway I know you love to salvage e-waste and so do I and I had to tell you the e-waste i found the other day. A whole 3d printer! well almost whole, its missing the hot end, and its also made of wood. IM guessing a DIY job from way back when they made them out of wood. Its got dual stepperer motors for the Z, 1 for the Y and even the belt is still intact otherwise it looks like it was burried. Its covered in mud and dirt, but the bed still slides back and forth hehe. The wood parts look CNC cut, maybe it was some kind of kit from way back? Im thinking of resotiring it but had no hope initially, but if you can make a wood 3d printer from scratch... even the rollers... i surely can restore one? Probably not. AnywayI found it on nature trail along a river under a train bridge. Very odd spot for a 3d printer but kind of fitting, being it was made of wood and covered in dirt it felt like it belonged outside, for a hobo to print functional parts like hangers for his wet clothes or something. You should make one out of steel next, you'd be stiffer and more accurate then every printer on the market!
Yeah my entire channel's in a slump right now, I thought it was because the last two videos weren't a huge success but someone else mentioned notifications not working as well so the former is probably the result of the latter, not vice versa... No worries about the ABS, I usually only spend 1-2h filming so I called it a day soon after and the fumes had time to dissipate till the next day. Cool, I wish I would find ewaste like that out and about, it's so hard to get one's hands on decent ewaste over here! Do the stepper motors still work after sitting out in the rain? I've already collected most the parts for my next printer, it'll be much more modern :)
Little correction thanks to patrons pointing it out: ABS isn't actually a high strength plastic like I implied at all, it's just an engineering plastic and stiffer than HDPE. I chose it because it's easily obtainable (the chassis of like 80% of appliances is made from it) though I did some research after the fact and from what I can tell aside from machining its other properties actually make it rather indesirable for wheels like this. PETG would definitely be preferable, maybe even PLA would work. Ultimately though POM or PC would be the way to go.
Damn, your ghetto lathing with the drill press is very impressive, I'd never have thought of that.
Definitely turning into the "how else can I abuse my drill press" channel :p
But yeah, I watch a few machining channels which inspires me to try it too, except I neither have a lathe nor space to put one :')
@@ChronicMechatronic 50U$D lathe when? hahahaha
Your summary as to WHY you did all of this makes a weird sort of sense! But knowing it to be true by trial and error is always a good lesson to learn. Keep up the exploration and learning and thnaks for taking us along for the journey (which is the best part of reaching the destination)
I only recently realized that that's basically what the series turned into. Originally I really just wanted to build a cool printer, the journey being the destination and all, because I saw all printers were made pretty much the same way. I definitely learned a LOT with this project, and had there been a similar series for me to watch before I embarked on this build, I definitely wouldn't have attempted it 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic I really appreicate the trying new methods, thats what got me into this series, seeing something new done that hasnt been done before, well not like i knew how 3d printers were made, but this is definately eye opening. If you really want to make a cool printer, can you do something cooler then the quadrophile? or what i dunno what he calls it, its a 4 headed printer, and the bed spins! no ones building printers like this... ua-cam.com/users/liveOHKT3F8wGLs?si=EN2t8o8WHEmqPwNC expensive legos? ...why not if its innovative.
I don't know if your audience knew, but a wood frame 3D printer was a buzz in 2014 with Printrbot Simple 1405, like Prusa made the buzz in the community one year later with the Prusa I3, killing the market with reliable printer.
The Printrbot simple (wood) was my first 3D printer and I learn a lot about set and manage trouble on printing PETG at the time. Thank you for remind it me to this great time !
Not building my 4th printer all from the ground, CoreXY 500x500x600mm with enclosure !
They had some awesome funky printers in those early days, I wasn't yet present online at the time to witness it, I'd just built my first table saw and was starting to set up shop in the basement 😅
I love the vibes I get from looking up those pioneering designs in retrospect!
The Prusa I3 sure is a solid design, yesterday I watched the video about how their printers are made, and possibly their biggest strength is that they *actually* run those machines 24/7 in a print farm to make new parts...
Ah yes, another banger of a video! I think some (only some) rigidity of a new V-roller is added by the fact you mount them with plastic adapter to the correct diameter of bolt, not with wooden screws with no material between id of the bearing and screw Direct drive is certainly a great upgrade, can't wait for X and Y axis motion system video.
Thanks! I dunno, the idea at least was that the countersink head of the wood screw would center the bearing and on the screw and solidly bear the inner race against the washer - which didn't help because those sides are crooked as well 😂
X and Y motion will be the next video, I need to see how well those lead screws work before I take the plunge on my laser cutter and end up with unwelcome surprises again...
Benjamin is like "Upgrades People, Upgrades!", but All the Rails are now Silky Smooth!
It's funny because I'm not really an upgrades type of person, I usually just design and build a better machine based on what I learned since I don't really like having to work around earlier bad design decisions :D
@@ChronicMechatronic That is the Definition of Upgrades! LOL! You improved it, right? It's a Upgrade from it's earlier iteration?
@@lunarz7117 well, I guess it includes the improvement, but I still designed a new machine from scratch which in my case usually ends up totally different.. At least I always thought of an "upgrade" as kind of a band aid, a "hack" to make a previously botched up thing slightly better 😂
I'd never thought to use a drill press as a mini-lathe. Gives me something to think about!
It's also very useful as a makeshift milling machine! Just put a dremel style router bit or burr in the chuck and run the workpiece back and forth on the table for some miniature face milling (though preferably clamp the part in a vice for that because small parts especially tend to get caught on the router bit and pull your fingers into it x)
Yep, two bearings are better than one. And if you ever build a lathe or mill, you actually need two pairs of bearings for the spindle. Even expensive bearings always seem to have one point in their rotation where there's just a bit of jiggle, and under heavy cutting forces it causes terrible vibration. But with two at each end of the shaft, one still supports the load when the other crosses its jiggle angle.
now to the part where the printer starts to print parts for itself make it a new series,its gonna be exciting with your creativity and CAD
That's definitely the next step, though I'm kinda planning to do that mostly off camera and end the series with the printer delivering decent results since I feel this project has mostly run its course. I'd rather make a series building a new, better printer using this one to make the parts...
@@ChronicMechatronic thats an even better idea goodluck my friend
I hope this is what happens and that the printer doesn’t keep having outsourced printed parts
@@lovecastle7154 good point - I don't like this cheating either, hence why I spent 6 minutes of the video proving that I can machine these parts myself. I just didn't want to do it 16 times, and since I have to integrate the sponsor somehow anyway...
But I promise those will be the only third party printed parts on the project.
7:45 You need a step drill! They only cost a few bucks and are great for keeping centered when enlarging holes.
great job!
Thx!
Press the melted plastic directly around the bearing? Shaft inserted to exclude plastic?
I am having trouble in printing can u help me when I start printing the flow rate of filament is low and the extruder is unable to push the filament after 20 secand them temparature is 240% and I'm using nema 17 moters nothing is clogged and I have changed the heater also
❤
FDM printers are actually very good at round parts, better than SLA because they are baisically vector drawings stacked on top of each other. I'm pretty sure ABS rollers can be feasibly printed even on this printer prior to this video (still with milled HDPE rollers), if the issue with homing is solved of course.
Honestly I hadn't even thought of that. You're probably right, though I'm not sure the bores for the bearings would've come out round enough without subsequent machining to insert the bearings due to the stairstep motion I was getting with those motors...
23:51 I am not a mechanical expert, but I think the bearings need grease: What you are earing is the ball clicking when going down after rotation. Somebody with more knowledge can confirm ?
Fyi get all that from an old pair of roller blades. You just need to carve the wheel down. Might be too big of a bearing?
Roller blade wheels use a machine screw with no threads where the bearing goes too!
I purchased many at garage sales for $2 a pair.
Each pair gives 16 bearings. They are built for weight too!
Awesome bro 👍
I admire your conviction to stick to making all your own parts BTW while your abusing your power tools, please wear safety glases.
Do you have an Amazon wishlist we can buy for you to receive ?
I don't, I usually only buy bigger stuff where I need the buyer protection from Amazon since I feel most of the small electronics stuff is the same crap I get on Aliexpress just overpriced...
But you already support on patreon, I think that's more than enough 🙈😂
was intending to point you to robert murry smith on youtube........ he has a conductive ink but I don't seem able to get it from his store, link not connecting.
Bro please make a video on. Making a letha cnc machine for wood carving. Please create it. Make ditel video on it.
What are the steps u used for z axis in the code
Z-axis steps per millimeter? Since it's an M5 thread with a pitch of 0.8mm and a 48 step/rev motor in halfsteps mode, it's 96 steps / 0.8mm = 120 steps per millimeter of movement
My filament is jamming and not melting everytime I need to pull out the filament and cut a little pic and I need to put it back while printing what do I do the temperature is 230c
@@hum.ortales1753 what kind of printer is it? Extruder? How long is the bowden tube? Is the hotend new? I need information about the printer if I'm supposed to help, there's like a million of variables causing jamming.
If it's a 28BYJ-48 extruder with bowden tube it likely doesn't have enough power, that's what happened with mine, it's the reason I'm converting to direct drive.
It's nema17 moter with ptf tube and the part which is jumping the nozzle is not melting when I directly put on heater of hotend
I am still empress with this Alsatian English
Well, I WAS enrolled at an American school for 12 years, maybe that helped :D
Marlin? Set Z_HOMING_HEIGHT to 0 in order for it not to raise itself on homing attempt. Ask a friendly neighbourhood contributor to the firmware. (hi)
Of course when you do 3-axis homing, you have to manually make sure it's high enough to actually accomplish homing. I could just develop a patch that ignores Z_HOMING_HEIGHT, treating it as zero, if Z is already homed and Z isn't part of homing request.
ABS has low abrasion resistance. I am not inclined to use it for rolling surfaces. Indeed HDPE would be one of my choices... so it's unfortunte that it didn't quite work out. Maybe it just needs a more supportive geometry, like you're using this time and unlike you're using last time? HDPE is also fairly chemically stable when heated to the melting point which ABS is not, so a lot can go wrong when trying to recycle ABS. I wonder if that's your bubbles. Or just uncured styrene, i mean butadiene is a known styrene polymerisation inhibitor. Honestly i don't understand ABS, i mean i have a vague idea of the chemistry, i just don't know why it is everywhere, since it's actually sort of bad.
If you're ordering your rollers off your kind sponsor, they can just do SLS PA(Nylon) which is one of those materials recommended for this sort of thing.
This build is absolutely spectacular.
3D printers with a single bearing wheel exist. Geeetech A10, that one has these V-slot extrusion wheels, but they're different from usual in that they only have one bearing. And with rigid plates holding everything together, it actually works fine.
Hi! Thanks so much, I love getting feedback from the real nerds of the community 😅
I didn't think of getting rid of the homing Z lift that way. I guess for the initial homing of all axes the Z lift command could've easily been hardcoded into the start Gcode.
In hindsight I don't know why I thought ABS would be suitable for wheels, I think I get what you say about abrasion resistance from the way it machined. I also did some research after the fact and it said ABS doesn't have a melting point per se, which kind of explains why mine was getting that weird rubbery consistency. I guess HDPE would've totally been fine with the new wheel geometry, I just thought it might be too squishy in the long run and develop flat spots. Now after watching the recent filament wear test video by My Tech Fun I would probably try PET or PETG seeing as it came out as one of the top wear resistant options (I say that ofc without any further research nor ever having worked with it first hand...)
Thanks for the heads up about the Geeetech A10, I wonder how they made it work... By using half-decent bearings probably :p
the best 👍
now do core XY :P
I will, eventually, but first I need to use this one to make a slightly more durable bed slinger 😁
Dang the algorithm must be punishing you, i havnet heard anything and decided to check up and sure enough theres 2 videos i havent watched. All i have to say is keep at it, your good, eventually the algorithm will learn. Cool DIY manufacturing techniques and please ventilate that ABS i hear its pretty toxic, Im working on ventilation system before i print anymore, just a box over the printer with a tube and a fan to blow the air toward a window. Resin looks like the way to go for small accurate parts, they have ones out with 12k resolution now i hear. But thats even more toxic then ABS i hear... Anyway I know you love to salvage e-waste and so do I and I had to tell you the e-waste i found the other day. A whole 3d printer! well almost whole, its missing the hot end, and its also made of wood. IM guessing a DIY job from way back when they made them out of wood. Its got dual stepperer motors for the Z, 1 for the Y and even the belt is still intact otherwise it looks like it was burried. Its covered in mud and dirt, but the bed still slides back and forth hehe. The wood parts look CNC cut, maybe it was some kind of kit from way back? Im thinking of resotiring it but had no hope initially, but if you can make a wood 3d printer from scratch... even the rollers... i surely can restore one? Probably not. AnywayI found it on nature trail along a river under a train bridge. Very odd spot for a 3d printer but kind of fitting, being it was made of wood and covered in dirt it felt like it belonged outside, for a hobo to print functional parts like hangers for his wet clothes or something. You should make one out of steel next, you'd be stiffer and more accurate then every printer on the market!
Yeah my entire channel's in a slump right now, I thought it was because the last two videos weren't a huge success but someone else mentioned notifications not working as well so the former is probably the result of the latter, not vice versa...
No worries about the ABS, I usually only spend 1-2h filming so I called it a day soon after and the fumes had time to dissipate till the next day.
Cool, I wish I would find ewaste like that out and about, it's so hard to get one's hands on decent ewaste over here! Do the stepper motors still work after sitting out in the rain?
I've already collected most the parts for my next printer, it'll be much more modern :)