The Eurotubes meter runs on the filament voltage. Im guessing there's relay switching inside that doesn't energize when you bring it up slowly. That would seem to explain why it works at switched full voltage. In any case the Eurotubes is doing fine.
Could be! I don't get why it started up when there was full voltage with the plate reading, but not the other reading until I power cycled it again. Who knows.
You know Yeattzie, thinking about it, it may only be the Eurotubes displays that are not working. They have that start up routine which isnt getting triggered without a full 6v at once. You could ask others, like Uncle Doug, who have the previous version if their meters work after ramping an amp up with a variac.
I love the nickel plated Fender chassis! They hold up very well. I kinda want to trade into a 68/69 Twin. I don't really need the power, but it sure is fun.
On these bigger 4x6L6 Fenders I use the lightweight 1k 5w on the screens. I find lots of people who still use these tend to use them with attenuators. That little bit of added compression tends to be what they're after and it affords the tubes a bit more protection being driven harder than they otherwise would be without the attenuator.
For those who are new to DIY electronics and are accumulating soldering equipment and accessories: the brass wool tip cleaner shown here works much better than a damp sponge, but be sure to buy one that has a hood over it because the springy brass wool has a tendency to fling little bits of solder around the workbench area as you're wiping the tip of the soldering iron. A hooded holder for the brass curlicue stuff will capture most of the errant solder bits.
Honestly, I like the ones without the hood more. Can get more force pushing down into the brass without the hood since the hood forces you to go at an angle. If it's not up against something it can move on ya. Especially the case with the bigger chassis iron.
@@YeatzeeGuitar , I've not found the need to use any real force to wipe the tips clean with the brass sponge. A couple of light passes seems to do the trick---- though it might not if the tip is pitted and oxidized. (There are a lot of counterfeit and off-the-shelf tips being sold on the internet that are made of inferior metal and don't last long).
The Eurotubes meter runs on the filament voltage. Im guessing there's relay switching inside that doesn't energize when you bring it up slowly. That would seem to explain why it works at switched full voltage. In any case the Eurotubes is doing fine.
Could be! I don't get why it started up when there was full voltage with the plate reading, but not the other reading until I power cycled it again. Who knows.
You know Yeattzie, thinking about it, it may only be the Eurotubes displays that are not working. They have that start up routine which isnt getting triggered without a full 6v at once. You could ask others, like Uncle Doug, who have the previous version if their meters work after ramping an amp up with a variac.
I love the nickel plated Fender chassis! They hold up very well.
I kinda want to trade into a 68/69 Twin. I don't really need the power, but it sure is fun.
The best! Twin's are so cheap right now
On these bigger 4x6L6 Fenders I use the lightweight 1k 5w on the screens. I find lots of people who still use these tend to use them with attenuators. That little bit of added compression tends to be what they're after and it affords the tubes a bit more protection being driven harder than they otherwise would be without the attenuator.
That's a good tip!
For those who are new to DIY electronics and are accumulating soldering equipment and accessories: the brass wool tip cleaner shown here works much better than a damp sponge, but be sure to buy one that has a hood over it because the springy brass wool has a tendency to fling little bits of solder around the workbench area as you're wiping the tip of the soldering iron. A hooded holder for the brass curlicue stuff will capture most of the errant solder bits.
Honestly, I like the ones without the hood more. Can get more force pushing down into the brass without the hood since the hood forces you to go at an angle. If it's not up against something it can move on ya. Especially the case with the bigger chassis iron.
@@YeatzeeGuitar , I've not found the need to use any real force to wipe the tips clean with the brass sponge. A couple of light passes seems to do the trick---- though it might not if the tip is pitted and oxidized. (There are a lot of counterfeit and off-the-shelf tips being sold on the internet that are made of inferior metal and don't last long).