Great job and enthusiasm in tackling a job like that. Detailing is a thankless job if you are an Auto Dealer ship Detailer but is greatly rewarding when you do it as your own boss to see the satisfaction good customers have for all your efforts. I was the sole detailer for a Dealership for 15 years and was rarely appreciated BUT I have been detailing from my home for 10 years now and have many customers that are very happy with my work and are repeat customers. So much so that after I retired I had to stop taking new customers to be able to keep detailing and not be working 7 days a week. I love seeing a car being brought back to near new condition and its totally satisfying when a customer really appreciates it. I am 67 now and still rockin.
As a tip, I use 3m glass compound. It uses a cerium oxide mineral blend, which assures a great cut and the highest level of polish possible. Polishing marring and fine scratches out of glass surfaces is a slow and difficult process, but using 3m Glass Polishing Compound can make the job a little bit easier. By the way use rayon polishing-pad in combination, either by hand or machine.
I’ve personally found that Rayon pads and cerium oxide compounds leave tick marks and swirls in the finish that are near impossible to remove which is why I don’t personally use them anymore. But different people have different experiences.
Excellent work. Thanks to your videos, I polished glass for the first time about a week ago on a relative's crossover (Stoner Invisible Glass, Clay Bar Treatment, Menzerna PF2500 on a White Lake Country CCS Hand Polishing Pad, Stoner Invisible Glass again, followed by 2 coats of Rain-X Repellent). The ice and snow is much easier to remove now. Cheers Sandro.
I dealt with the same water spots on a 2013 Toyota Venza recently. M105, rotary polisher and 3 inch yellow foam medium cutting pads from buff and shine did the trick. Wheel acid works well on etched water spots also, Meguiar’s wheel brightener at 4:1, wet glass, spray liberally, brush the glass with a leather cleaning brush, rinse well, also does the trick.
I have a black car with water marks worse than this and I made sure to watch this video twice. So glade I was able learn from this. Thank You! Keep up the good work.
Carpro CeriGlass polish with special felt glass polishing pads make quick work of polishing glass. They sling quite a bit, but just use less product to minimize that. Also, the product tends to dry quicker than conventional polishes or compounds, but a spritz of water occasionally increases the working time of the CeriGlass. Your video is excellent (as usual) when we only have regular wool and foam pads available. I’ve also found Meguiar’s Water Spot remover (like a polish) and Invisible Glass Water Spot remover to work well with conventional pads on removing moderate spotting on glass. Thank you so much for your expansive and detailed tutorials. They are ultra insightful and helpful. I’m just a hobbyist polisher of my own vehicles, but they endure and experience the same challenges as customers’ vehicles would pose. I’m not a professional, but I learn from pros like you. Thanks again!
Thank mate and really appreciate you sharing your own personal experiences. I’ve personally found Carpro CeriGlass and the Rayon pads to leave tiny tick marks in the finish that are near impossible to refine which is why I tend to avoid it, but not everyone has the same experience so you should always go with what works best for you.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Wow, I had no idea about the tick marks. I have only used the CeriGlass and felt pads on occasion when the water spots wouldn't come out with a foam pad (orange or Rupes yellow) and either compound or polish. I didn't notice tick marks after the CeriGlass, but I totally trust your experience, knowledge and testing. You have lights and equipment I don't have, so thank you so much for the cautions.
God damn that one step correction did wonders in this scenario. Hard to pull of on every single car, but so terrific when it works out. Insane how much aggression and time it took to get the glass looking right again. No wonder I’ve been defeated by stained glass before; I’m just being a pansy
Ha ha, you’re not a pansy, it’s sometimes crazy how much work and aggression is need! You’ll always get some people saying just do this or that and it will be easy, until it’s not and you find out there are no short cuts that don’t have consequences. If a short cut was better, it wouldn’t be a short cut, it would just be the way 🙂
Wow! Top notch results and education as usual! You would be an outstanding hands on teacher if you ever wanted to explore that option!! Thank you for the video!!
I wetsand deep scratches off of glass 1500 3000 5000 grit followed by cesium oxide polish this works. also detail spray with 0000 steel wool with very light pressure. for paint and glass. mag brite or meguires wheel brightener is acidic..sprayed onto one panel at a time and wiped in then contact wash each panel right after.. this is an incredible way to penetrate into the mineral deposits and remove water spots without polishing though to get it almost perfect definately compound and polish. it's funny I just did a black Mercedes e300 with waterspots all over the hood and chrome trim. good thing it was only baked on for 2 weeks not yrs the extra wheel acid wash removed 90 percent of the minerals in the clear coat and I didn't polish or apply protection. in 2 weeks I'm going to do one more acid bath should do the trick then I'll light polish and apply a sealant. great videos. you are awesome. thanks
Thanks for the great video Sandro. After all my struggles with ultra hard paint it was great to see a hard paint example here. Especially since I have water spots to remove from the glass also!
Great video Sandro, I have really enjoyed it and thanks for that. Specially when my neighbour asked me if I can remove water spots from his car, so now I know all the things and details to think about and to be careful with))) Clever aand logical mosquito net at the bottom of the lifted doors during summer time). Cheers from Sweden and thanks again)
Hi there Sandro! A great video, as usual :) I would really like to apologise for my earlier comment, i was a little bit harsh with my statement that ,,yadda yadda caring for a car without proper proffesional eq is unrealistic yadda yadda", we all love are cars, thats why we try to care for them, and we all chase a equilibrium in that instance. I had a really though one as i have a new car and already had a waterspot problem, it came out but with polishing (medium compound and 9mm throw with soft pad) but it was a lot of work, and not all of them are gone but i want to preserve my clear coat as much as i can. This video was informative and showed me that with hard work (many times it's harder than i thought) the results can be dramatically postitive! Cheers!
Great result You never let the customer down. What may not be perfect for you looks fantastic to every 1 else You can only do what the time for allows even though when you know you can make it look perfect given the time I am sure the friend was overjoyed with the result Mental health is just as important than physical health. STAY STRONG. In Sandro we trust
A concentrated citric acid solution makes a great spray-on descaler for panels and glass. It removes practically all carbonate deposits from both. Then I use a cerium oxide glass compound on a felt pad on a rotary to remove etching, scratches, and coatings. It's very efficient. Etching and coatings come off very fast. Scratches are a long struggle, especially embedded scratches from failed wiper blades. Some of those can only come off with wet sanding followed by compounding.
Great video Sandro🙌 I purchased a combo kit from Waxit with those pads and polish a few years ago and love the results you can get from them👍 Awesome results 👏 👌 😎
Sandro, I salute you sir, amazing turn-around, irrespective what you charged youve doubled the value of the vehicle. Honestly, Ive seen glass similar to that (not quite as bad) & given up after a couple of hours achieving sodall. Great work fella, got S2 Gold & wool in my aresenal but sincerely hope it can stay where it is for the foreseeabale future, not sure the local store has enough spinach in stock.
Carpro’s Spotless tends to do a very good job on all surfaces as long as you use the right microfiber towel (not the smooth glass ones, but the ones with small fibers) as they lift the etchings off with the pulling and pushing motion on the surface. McGuiar’s Wheel Brightener is great too on clear coats, but not on glass as it turns psychedelic on contact and would need to be replaced…I’ve got spectacles to prove it.
At work we use Auto Magic Spoke to clean mineral deposits like those and it works 95% of the time, we do 20:1 and if it doesn't budge 10:1 before we start trying to use the buffer
That’s great if it’s working well for you guys. I’d say that in my experience going too strong with acid cleaners can cause damage and premature wear on paint and trims - that’s just my experience which may be different to yours.
Good grief, that car had awful spotting/etching! You did a fine job getting it to look how it should. I like the new intro... especially the sound! A v8 engine is one of the best sounds there is. Be well, Sandro😃🏎
Great stuff as always, I'm always having water spotting issues in glass so this is a great look at ways to rectify. Also makes me feel a little more at ease on the time that some things can take :).
I've bought Ceriglass with some rayon pads to do my glass. Have heard great things about the combo so am hoping for a good result. Nice vid yet again Sandro 👍
@@snail415 150ml plus 2x 75mm rayon pads as a kit, £14.99 on eBay. Pretty sure it'll do more than 1 car so I'm happy with that especially as it's a once in a blue moon job. Or at least should be.
Be careful, it scratched my windscreen, don't think all glass is the same, wont touch it anymore. I contacted Sandro about it and he also is reluctant to use it. Just be careful and do a small test section
We all have different experiences with different products, but I did personally find that CeriGlass and the Rayon pads did leave tiny tick marks and swirls on several occasions that I couldn’t refine or remove which is why I personally don’t tend to use it.
Great, concise video Sandro. Couple of quick questions- 1. That Shine Mate: Do you ever get ‘battery fatigue’? Do you ever prefer a corded polisher for certain projects? 2. Are Meguiars products always more expensive for you to get your hands on? I just bought M110 Ultra Speed Compound. Rated at 1,200-grit removal, not smelling like an oil refinery, and costing only $29 for a 32oz bottle (for me), it’s an incredible value. I immediately almost preferred it to Griot’s FCC because it is very quick and singular in focus. If you can score it, I’d love to see your results against the more high-end products you use. Cheers mate!
@@qwikss4469 In my opinion/experience, it’s best to. But I see that as a good thing. While FCC is very versatile and ‘pad-modular’, I like using ‘a big hammer for big-hammer work.’ M110 has a longer working time than Megs’ older stuff by a long shot. While I’m sure that FCC can yield a great finish if you only had that tool in the toolbox, it takes longer to get the cutting results M110 gives you in seconds. It doesn’t stink or try to smell like a candle, and it has a consistency of a light exfoliating cream. It’s after cutting. If you really, really want a product that cuts in amazing way, look for LVR 321 by Xtreme Solutions in NJ, USA. It’s phenomenal. I’ve cut 1,000-grit scratches and even orange peel with it. And it certainly works on glass as a starter product. Long-winded here, but I’m just not a one-step guy. That’s my attraction to products that get one thing best vs everything good. Cheers.
Thanks Justin, and no I can’t say I’ve gotten fatigued from using the cordless polishers, the newer Ex620 corded polishers do have unbelievable torque so I sometimes gravitate to them instead. I think I gave up on waiting for M110 and M210 to arrive in Australia after seeing it at Sema 3yrs ago! I think it’s a shame that Meguiars products take a lifetime to arrive in Australia if at all, whereas other brands come here super quick and it’s also a shame that Meguiars inflates their prices here so much loosing the value aspect of the brand. But thanks for sharing that mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks Sandro. I apologize- My question regarding ‘battery fatigue’ was my unclear term regarding anxiety over “When is that battery is gonna wear-out?”. I battle with the pros and cons of such equipment for mostly that reason. Any loss in consistent power compared to a similarly-spec’d corded version? Thanks.
No worries mate, I personally have 4 batteries and two chargers so I never run out of juice no mater how hard I go. The battery tech is getting really good, I’ve also heard that there’s some new even better batteries in the pipeline that will go even longer and harder. At home I use Milwaukee power tools and I haven’t bought a corded power tool in two years, cordless is just so much easier and convenient.
Looked like crocodile skin in some parts Sandro but you smashed it! I have used Osren water spot remover with easy success but that was On a rear window VW Amarok with town water spots. 👍
Hey Sandro, could you make a video talking about what you look to have in your detailing studio and an insight on how you set your tools on your new studio?
i all don't like working of glass too but I later discovered that using 2000 and 3000 gtit sand papers on glass before finally polishing with matching makes it easier
Sandro, The Vehicle turned out amazing. In your experience is there a greater challenge in removing water spots from coastal Salt water vs Rain or Lawn irrigation?
Going through this now with a 3 yr old truck. Love the look of a shiney black car but Never buying a dark painted car again. Light gray from now on. Too much aggravation
I have used barkeeper's friend on the glass for years. Never had a problem and it always removed the aged water spots. It isn't instant but after several coatings and polishing they eventually disappear.
Good tips and nice video that I personally think is absolutely educational I being doing this job for a long time on boats and what I going to said is that you can avoid all that work just by dry your 🚗 or 🚢 everytime you washed money and time on your life will be there thanks for the video
Good day Sandro, I’ve never seen such advanced etching on paint. Thank you for taking the time to compare three separate products and pads. For your IPA solution, do you recommend 50/50 to water for dilution? My apologies if you’ve already answered this question recently. Excellent information and presentation. 🍻🇨🇦
Alluminium brightner 50/50 wash would half cleaned those water spots off the paint so much more. On the glass it would come completely off without needed to polish it in minutes. It will not harm the paint or glass...i been doing it for years..There is a way to do it though. Try it out...Duarte.
Like I mentioned at the start of the video, I use an acid wash that actually did remove a lot of the mineral despots- they were much worse before that. I’m a little weary of using overly harsh acid cleaners due to past experience of them damaging paint and trims. But I always say that if it personally works well for you that’s what really matters.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing What type of acid wash? the acid wash you used wasn't aluminium brightner...they don't work and yes can damage. I have tried them all..they don't do much. Aluminium brightner is the only thing that works if used my way and diluted correctly.
Beautiful Correction... How did you top-coat ? Did you lock down that work with a Ceramic ? If you don't mind sharing, what product did you use to top-coat ?
Thanks and I can’t remember for sure but it may have been ceramic coated with Nv Nova Evo: www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-evo-hybrid-ceramic-coating?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
Once again, another amazing video with tons of value for me even though it couldn’t be longer Sandro! In your experience, could Carpro Ultracut be a good candidate in this situation to achieve just as great a result for a one-step on paint and even work on glass? Saw your previous vids on Ultracut and it blew me away!
Marvelous work.Have you ever faced a situation that watermarks/etching reappear after certain time . I had the same problem and i though i remove the problem but it was just evaporate them with the heat .After 45 minutes in the sun all came back .
Yes I have had watermarks come back up with sun and even other scratches and defects, it’s usually if they are quite bad to start with. Paint swelling can sometimes temporarily hide them if you work with too much heat and expand the paint while compounding. Making sure you use an acid cleaner/water spot remover during the wash can also help avoid it at times. But sometimes it’s just a process that needs to be repeated if the paint is heavily contaminated with mineral deposits.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you Sandro much appreciate. I also used acid bath /water spot removal .Wool pad and rotary was the only solution to complete remove the problem .Thank you once again
@@spiros271hi, i want to ask a question. You used acid bath and water spot removers and polished the car and did water spots come back? I am trying to solve this problem but couldn’t find any certain solution. All water spots came back after i used wsr and polished car twice.
beautiful work! I`m just curious. If you were to use microfiber or wool on this hard paint, what speedsetting on the polisher would you have used? The speedsetting 2-3, or 4 maybe 5? Do you use fast or slow armspeed?
Thanks and it does depend on a few things based around doing some tests, but I’ll generally use similar or slower machine speeds, less pressure and faster arm movements maybe even shorter working times to mitigate heat.
Hi Sandro, My car glass is in very good shape, I just want to polish/clean it before I coat the glass. What kind of pad do you recommend and is CarPro Ceriglass appropriate for my purpose?
Maybe have a look at the video below, that’s how I’d generally do it. Carpro CeriGlass and the Rayon pads can be great for badly weathered glass but I wouldn’t use it in your case, it’s aggressive and can leave micro marring. Just use a light car polish. ua-cam.com/video/8C4pLHL-zmc/v-deo.html
Looking at those hard water spots/stains gives me goosebumps! Have you tried using razor blade with lube to scrape off most of the water spots/stains? Some of the detailers are using them here in my area. Awesome video as always. Keep it up!
Yes those etchings where pretty bad! I have used razor blades to remove mineral deposits and other contamination from glass - I usually bend the blade to lift the edges up - but they can work quite well especially in the very tight edges where it’s hard to polish close to the rubber seals, but sometimes you still get and outline of the etchings that need polishing to remove.
Hi Sandro, I noticed that you've got a mesh netting attached to the warehouse roller door, is that to allow airflow in but also to block out environmental contaminants that may blow in with the wind?
Have you tried washing the car with water and then dry it off with a microfibre cloth before the water dry? It works every time for me. Water is the best solvent for water stain.
Sandro, Speechless as always 😅 I was just curious as to what combo pad and polish you think would be best to give my Mk7 Golf R with "White Paint" the same treatment as you did with this benz, im just looking for a pop/brighten up just as you stated nothing crazy
Thanks mate. You always have to do a some testing to confirm results as every paint is different, but in most cases Mercedes paint is quite hard and something similar to the combination of S2 Black and the yellow Shine Mate pad I used on this car could work quite well.
Mechanical removal on glass = pain. As it is glass, I'd certainly have tried chemical removal before mechanical. I've had very good success with Pine-Sol, even on paint. However, as the paint needed correction anyway, mechanical would be the way top go there.
@@STILLNIGHTPEARL I have used it on paint after I tried washing and mild and heavy duty clay. It worked better then all of those. I used at at full strength. Granted, after applying it I wanted washed it right off each panel. The only other thing I found that worked about as good was the heavy duty Nanoskin clay sponge. It did a very good job as well. If you are using Pine Sol on glass I'd simply apply the Pine Sol to an old rag, wipe it on, wait a few minutes and wipe off with a wet rag.
Thanks so much for the great video. Learned a lot. Wondering if you suggest a specific Rayon class polishing pad instead of wool And also a specific glass compound ? Thanks again love your channel
The Carpro Rayon pads as well as CeriGlass can be very effective if the glass is badly scratched and etched as they will have more of an impact - but CeriGlass with the Rayons do tend to leave tiny micro scratches behind that are near impossible to remove, so I wouldn’t go there unless more traditional paint compounds and pads aren’t achieving the results I’m after.
Hey Sandro, what are hints to spot water marks/etching? Is it neglecting? Or mineral deposits thats sits there baking with sun to cause the damage. I have ceramic on my car and just want to know how these water spots arises. Its a daily, sits under carport. Thank you in advance!
It’s really few things. The quality of water has a big impact, tap water is usually worse but rain water around city, industrial and airport areas is also bad in my experience. Sunlight is another big factor, water drying in direct sunlight is very prone to etchings. The other thing is time and build up. Water spots usually come of easily if you get to them right away, but when they are left on and then more water spots are created over them that’s when the situation gets bad.
Sandro on your demo that starts at 4:16 it looks like you did 5 sets of passes and I didn't see any break to clean the pad or reapply any polish. Is your technique still to do two sets, then blow out the pad and continue on? thanks
Great stuff Sandro! I have previously used the Autoglym glass polish, which did a great job on a foam pad. Do you have any thoughts on those specific glass polishes ?
I didn’t seem to have great success with the AG glass polish but it’s probably been a decade since last used it, so it could be worth revisiting, but I’ve personally had better results with paint compounds in general compared to glass ones.
I have water spots on my car that has clearly etched into the clearcoat, because using Gyeon Water did not really do much to remove it. Which means that I have to probably resort to cutting and polishing with a machine. If so, what compound and pad do you recommend to use for removing hard water spots? Is one step enough, or is two steps required? And what type of car shampoo do I have to use beforehand? I currently have Adam's Graphene Shampoo but I'm looking at other options. I just bought a Shinemate EX620 and EX603 based on your recommendation. Thanks!
I’ll give you a link to a hopefully helpful video that takes you through both the wash and prep as well as the correction stage: ua-cam.com/video/6tepA3wjPbY/v-deo.htmlsi=Fa0t6IIAjhhgRXce The thing about correction and what is needed is that is going to be based on the defects - that can vary a lot - as well as the paint type - which again can vary immensely from soft to hard - and there’s many other factors like environment, skill level and technique that all play a vital part in the results you achieve. The best and really only way to discover what combination to use is to do a few test sections - the video I linked will guide you through that process and help you determine the best combination for your specific paint and it’s defects - no matter if they are scratches or water etchings.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks! Can you recommend a cutting and polishing compound? You recommended NV finesse and Scholls but they are not available where I live.
@Lesparta there’s lots of great compounds around and if you a fine, medium and coarse grade it should cover all your needs. Meguiars M210(fine) Ultimate Compound(medium) and M110(coarse) are another great option and should be widely available. Rupes DA Coarse, Fine and Ultra Fine are also great options.
Factory tinted glass which tends to be mostly sunroof or panoramic glass can absolutely be polished in this same manner - the car in this video had it, I have it on my own cars and have done it countless times on clients cars, no issue at all as long as you’re polishing the exterior side on the glass.
Awesome thanks! Ive done it as well but noticed the window surface get this rainbow style effect as you wipe off compound . Thought it was an issue. Thanks!
Sandro, over the look last year I have had 3 cars with similar water spots as your Mercedes had. I removed them and the paint was gorgeous, then I coated them. Within 12 hours, each of them had all the water spots reappear, it was like the ceramic coating acted as a wicking agent. The spots were much smaller but just as numerous. Two were black and one was red. I used the same acid wash from carpro and also used 3D gel water spot remover on severe spots, then used either the Rupes blue or yellow wool pads with DA coarse, then finished with white pad and UNO Pure. Any ideas on how to prevent that from happening again?
Both UV (strong direct sunlight) and infrared light (lamps) can be used before and/or after correction to get minerals deposits/water spots to quickly resurface and/or check that they are truely gone. I’ve also found that using primer polishes like Carpro Essence can significantly help prevent water spots from resurfacing. I’ve also found that trying to compound/polish with as little heat as possible in your technique helps truly eliminate them rather than temporarily removing them - increased heat can swell paint which tends to just mask them. They can be a real pain and I’ve certainly had the same thing happen to me in the past, but those mentioned tips/processes have helped me out.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingwhat if used acid wash and polish but water spots come back again? I am trying to solve this problem for about 6 months but whenever i polish and wash the car, i see same spots on roof and hood. I use Koch Chemie F6 and M3 with DA polisher and dont let heat the surface. Also i tried Koch Chemie FSE, Car Pro Spotless and white vinegar but no result.
Sound like a real pain and ongoing issue, that’s not something I’ve experienced over and over again on the same car - usually they do go away for me after a second attempt. The only thing I can suggest that you may not have tried is Carpro Essence (a primer polish) it can in my experience prevent them from resurfacing. It’s important that you firstly try and get all the minerals to reappear with UV light, that’s very important, then use Essence to remove them entirely (if need be you can use it with a more aggressive wool pad to firstly remove them and then use Essence with a foam polish to finish well) and let it cure for at least 4-6 hours out of direct sunlight. It’s also import that you don’t create excess heat in this polishing process. You can manage heat by using compressed air to blow out your pads after each polishing cycle - which also cools the pads and rotate a few pads allowing them to cool during the process. Beyond that I’m not sure what else I can suggest that you haven’t already tried.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i want to ask another question. What if i leave these spots? They will sit at the same level or will i have to do aggresive methods to remove them in the future?
bro i ordered a big order from sud and never received it and they never got back to me from multiple time reaching out. ended up disputing the order thru the bank
Hi Sandro, I live in a place where borehioles are used by my clients and in most cases the waterspots are really etched in, and even Scholls S2 Black on wool, on A rupes Mille wont remove them. Am I doing something wrong like not using a waterspot remover before hand? Its not easily found this side of the world, and we also have really hot weather all the time
A strong acid cleaner can help to remove and reduce sone of those etching before you polish to hopefully make the correction there easier. You don’t have to you a specific water spot remover, you can also use stronger an acid wheel cleaner or metal acid cleaner. You just have be careful about getting those stronger acidic on surrounding rubber and plastic trims as they can cause damage. But apart from that just work small areas and rotary will tend to be a bit more effect than the Mille. It’s hard work mate so don’t think your doing anything wrong, it’s just the way it goes.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you so much for the advice and kind words , I really do appreciate them. I have been thinking about learning the art of the Rotary but I've been detailing with forced rotation and long throw DAs for the past 11 years. I've watched your Rotary video, and while it is good, maybe as a future idea you could do an instructional video for those used to DAs , how to use the rotary and tips and tricks, dos and don'ts
Cool video mate, I’ve just bought my first brand new black car 3 weeks ago and have found these white spots suddenly appeared, and I don’t live near the coast . The car was ceramic coated and I was told only to use ph neutral shampoo, which was supplied when I bought the car and I tried to wash it to remove the water spots later in the afternoon/evening once the sun went down, and it looked good once I finished but got up this morning to find even more of the white spots on the paintwork and glass 😳 The car was completely rinsed down after washing but just left it to dry naturally over night. I only used the soft toweling cloth supplied with the shampoo, spot remover and fine line remover pack I was given when I bought the car. Any ideas if it’s ok to use something other than the ph neutral shampoo supplied. Cheers 🍻
A quality ceramic coating that’s correctly applied to well prepared paint will be very chemical resistant so you can absolutely use stronger chemicals (if needed) to help clean and remove contaminants such as water spots once the coating is fully cured. Some advise I can also give is that you should always dry the vehicle after washing with a microfibre drying towel or even just blown air - a leaf or car blower works great. So never let standing water just dry on its own as that’s what creates water spots. Ceramic coatings are also the most valuable to water spotting in the first few days and weeks after application and unfortunately many if not most dealerships ceramic coatings don’t tend to be the best. I’ll give you a link to a video I made about maintaining and deep cleaning ceramic coatings as well - hope this helps mate. ua-cam.com/video/vWYyw-yKM3A/v-deo.htmlsi=uCH5aqmOm1ZQZbdY
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing champion mate thank you for your reply, will rain leave these mineral water spots or is it just from tap water? I did hose the car off about two weeks after getting it and I think it was after that they appeared 🤷♂️ I’m also here in 🇦🇺 so are there brands of car care products you recommend that are available from local auto shops like Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn ,ect and I’m guessing from your reply you should hand dry or blow the car dry after washing, are the towels used just called car drying towels? Cheers
@mattmill7056 Rain water is less likely to leave water spots but it still can particularly around city areas, airports and industrial areas where the air isn’t as clean. I did a video on my personal favourite detailing products so you can have a look at it and the items are also listed in the description box, but yes a microfibre drying towel is a larger thick pile towel and there’s quite a few around: ua-cam.com/video/TaIeHl9WFVI/v-deo.htmlsi=NBv_pugsv-h6ne-o
Epic turnaround...... but the car will return to that environment only to be water etched again. Yes ? Is there any effective protection to mitigate against such etching ?? Seawater environment is pretty aggressive
The best thing the owner can do is try and use an acid pre-soak foam and hand wash like Descale once a month or so which should help eliminate light spotting before it becomes extreme etchings. Maintenance is really the key in not letting it get this bad again.
Hi Sandro, very nice work on this one! just a quick question if you have the time, I’m sharing the same experience with you on ceriglass and rayon pads, and I’m wondering if I could use just a fine polish with a foam pad to just CLEAN the glass prior to coating it ? I’m not looking for any correction, just deep cleaning it
Thanks mate. I don’t think you need to necessarily polish if you use detergents & chemically strip the glass as well as clay it, you can absolutely still get a bond with a coating doing that. But I will say that personally I do find the micro polishing abrasives (found in any car polish/compound) do tend to strip, deep clean and produce clarity the glass uniquely in a way that other processes can’t. But again, I don’t feel it’s absolutely necessary to polish.
Its always better to us an MDR(Mineral Deposit Remover) to remove water etching from glasses. If the etching is severe you might have to do multiple passes but way more easier than compounding.
You may have missed it but I used and covered using acid cleaners on this car at the start of the video and provide a link to another video that walks through that process. It certainly helped a lot but these weren’t merely mineral deposits siting on the glass they were etched in beneath the surface for over a decade on this vehicle and it wasn’t just about glass it included paint. Strong acid cleaners also tend to kill surrounding rubber trims, haze plastics, metals and paint in my experience. They certainly have their uses and I’m happy you’re achieving great results with them, but they also have many issues and can destroy a vehicle’s condition with repeated heavy use - there’s no magic solution, every process have pros and cons, this was one way of doing it that also has pros and cons.
Great video as usual mate. Im looking to do some moderate to light paint correction on our family cars. I was told to use an all in one such as Sonax perfect finish to save a lot of time. Ive been using meguiars hybrid ceramic wax on our cars and its been giving good durability ie up to 6 months. Apparently the all in ones will give around 3months protection. Id like something that will do a cut and polish in one step so i can still use the meguiars that i have on hand. Can u recommend something please? Many thanks and really enjoy your channel.
Thanks, but Sonax PF isn’t an all in one polish so it won’t leave any protection behind, it can be regarded as a one step polish, but it is purely a polish to remove light to moderate defects and you could certainly use Meguiars HCW after using it to seal the finish as you have been.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks Sandro, I must have confused the sonax with another product. Im now thinking of trying Angelwax Regenerate for bang for buck, considering sonax is one of the most expensive ones out there. Have u tried Regenerate? I searched your videos but couldnt find it. Cheers mate
Maybe white vinegar at what acidity level , 15 - 25 % . Spray it on and wait for how manyminutes and pressure wash it off . Or to agitate it with ? then to wash off .
Great job and enthusiasm in tackling a job like that. Detailing is a thankless job if you are an Auto Dealer ship Detailer but is greatly rewarding when you do it as your own boss to see the satisfaction good customers have for all your efforts. I was the sole detailer for a Dealership for 15 years and was rarely appreciated BUT I have been detailing from my home for 10 years now and have many customers that are very happy with my work and are repeat customers. So much so that after I retired I had to stop taking new customers to be able to keep detailing and not be working 7 days a week. I love seeing a car being brought back to near new condition and its totally satisfying when a customer really appreciates it. I am 67 now and still rockin.
Fantastic to hear that and it says a lot about the work you do, I’m really happy for you mate!
As a tip, I use 3m glass compound. It uses a cerium oxide mineral blend, which assures a great cut and the highest level of polish possible. Polishing marring and fine scratches out of glass surfaces is a slow and difficult process, but using 3m Glass Polishing Compound can make the job a little bit easier. By the way use rayon polishing-pad in combination, either by hand or machine.
I’ve personally found that Rayon pads and cerium oxide compounds leave tick marks and swirls in the finish that are near impossible to remove which is why I don’t personally use them anymore. But different people have different experiences.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Been there done it, same observation as you did. I'll try using wool pad and heavy compound moving forward.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingi always spray mist of water to the glass when using rayon pad and cerium.
Excellent work. Thanks to your videos, I polished glass for the first time about a week ago on a relative's crossover (Stoner Invisible Glass, Clay Bar Treatment, Menzerna PF2500 on a White Lake Country CCS Hand Polishing Pad, Stoner Invisible Glass again, followed by 2 coats of Rain-X Repellent). The ice and snow is much easier to remove now. Cheers Sandro.
I dealt with the same water spots on a 2013 Toyota Venza recently. M105, rotary polisher and 3 inch yellow foam medium cutting pads from buff and shine did the trick. Wheel acid works well on etched water spots also, Meguiar’s wheel brightener at 4:1, wet glass, spray liberally, brush the glass with a leather cleaning brush, rinse well, also does the trick.
I have a black car with water marks worse than this and I made sure to watch this video twice. So glade I was able learn from this. Thank You!
Keep up the good work.
Carpro CeriGlass polish with special felt glass polishing pads make quick work of polishing glass. They sling quite a bit, but just use less product to minimize that. Also, the product tends to dry quicker than conventional polishes or compounds, but a spritz of water occasionally increases the working time of the CeriGlass. Your video is excellent (as usual) when we only have regular wool and foam pads available. I’ve also found Meguiar’s Water Spot remover (like a polish) and Invisible Glass Water Spot remover to work well with conventional pads on removing moderate spotting on glass. Thank you so much for your expansive and detailed tutorials. They are ultra insightful and helpful. I’m just a hobbyist polisher of my own vehicles, but they endure and experience the same challenges as customers’ vehicles would pose. I’m not a professional, but I learn from pros like you. Thanks again!
Thank mate and really appreciate you sharing your own personal experiences. I’ve personally found Carpro CeriGlass and the Rayon pads to leave tiny tick marks in the finish that are near impossible to refine which is why I tend to avoid it, but not everyone has the same experience so you should always go with what works best for you.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Wow, I had no idea about the tick marks. I have only used the CeriGlass and felt pads on occasion when the water spots wouldn't come out with a foam pad (orange or Rupes yellow) and either compound or polish. I didn't notice tick marks after the CeriGlass, but I totally trust your experience, knowledge and testing. You have lights and equipment I don't have, so thank you so much for the cautions.
God damn that one step correction did wonders in this scenario. Hard to pull of on every single car, but so terrific when it works out. Insane how much aggression and time it took to get the glass looking right again. No wonder I’ve been defeated by stained glass before; I’m just being a pansy
Ha ha, you’re not a pansy, it’s sometimes crazy how much work and aggression is need! You’ll always get some people saying just do this or that and it will be easy, until it’s not and you find out
there are no short cuts that don’t have consequences. If a short cut was better, it wouldn’t be a short cut, it would just be the way 🙂
i love you sandro you’ve reached me so much and now i’m opening my own LLC for detailing
Wish you the very best moving forward with that mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you! I hope you are doing well mentally sandro. don’t hesitate to put yourself before others mate🖤🤞
Wow! Top notch results and education as usual! You would be an outstanding hands on teacher if you ever wanted to explore that option!! Thank you for the video!!
Stunning results. You're level of skill & knowledge are unparalleled.
I wetsand deep scratches off of glass 1500 3000 5000 grit followed by cesium oxide polish this works. also detail spray with 0000 steel wool with very light pressure. for paint and glass. mag brite or meguires wheel brightener is acidic..sprayed onto one panel at a time and wiped in then contact wash each panel right after.. this is an incredible way to penetrate into the mineral deposits and remove water spots without polishing though to get it almost perfect definately compound and polish. it's funny I just did a black Mercedes e300 with waterspots all over the hood and chrome trim. good thing it was only baked on for 2 weeks not yrs the extra wheel acid wash removed 90 percent of the minerals in the clear coat and I didn't polish or apply protection. in 2 weeks I'm going to do one more acid bath should do the trick then I'll light polish and apply a sealant.
great videos. you are awesome. thanks
I have hard water where I live, so this is what I was looking for to correct that problem - thanks!
Thanks for the great video Sandro. After all my struggles with ultra hard paint it was great to see a hard paint example here. Especially since I have water spots to remove from the glass also!
Hope it helps!
Awesome Video Sandro. Priceless information. Thank you for all your positive contributions!! 🙏
Great video Sandro, I have really enjoyed it and thanks for that. Specially when my neighbour asked me if I can remove water spots from his car, so now I know all the things and details to think about and to be careful with))) Clever aand logical mosquito net at the bottom of the lifted doors during summer time). Cheers from Sweden and thanks again)
Really awesome clips and edits of the before then after shots of your polishing combos.
Hi there Sandro! A great video, as usual :) I would really like to apologise for my earlier comment, i was a little bit harsh with my statement that ,,yadda yadda caring for a car without proper proffesional eq is unrealistic yadda yadda", we all love are cars, thats why we try to care for them, and we all chase a equilibrium in that instance. I had a really though one as i have a new car and already had a waterspot problem, it came out but with polishing (medium compound and 9mm throw with soft pad) but it was a lot of work, and not all of them are gone but i want to preserve my clear coat as much as i can. This video was informative and showed me that with hard work (many times it's harder than i thought) the results can be dramatically postitive! Cheers!
Great result You never let the customer down. What may not be perfect for you looks fantastic to every 1 else You can only do what the time for allows even though when you know you can make it look perfect given the time I am sure the friend was overjoyed with the result Mental health is just as important than physical health. STAY STRONG. In Sandro we trust
Thank you Bob always appreciate it mate!
A concentrated citric acid solution makes a great spray-on descaler for panels and glass. It removes practically all carbonate deposits from both. Then I use a cerium oxide glass compound on a felt pad on a rotary to remove etching, scratches, and coatings. It's very efficient. Etching and coatings come off very fast. Scratches are a long struggle, especially embedded scratches from failed wiper blades. Some of those can only come off with wet sanding followed by compounding.
Hi Sandro, educational and informative as ever - glad to hear the post lockdown fun back in your voice; happy chilled. Keep 'em comming.
Great video Sandro🙌
I purchased a combo kit from Waxit with those pads and polish a few years ago and love the results you can get from them👍
Awesome results 👏 👌 😎
Sandro, I salute you sir, amazing turn-around, irrespective what you charged youve doubled the value of the vehicle. Honestly, Ive seen glass similar to that (not quite as bad) & given up after a couple of hours achieving sodall. Great work fella, got S2 Gold & wool in my aresenal but sincerely hope it can stay where it is for the foreseeabale future, not sure the local store has enough spinach in stock.
Carpro’s Spotless tends to do a very good job on all surfaces as long as you use the right microfiber towel (not the smooth glass ones, but the ones with small fibers) as they lift the etchings off with the pulling and pushing motion on the surface. McGuiar’s Wheel Brightener is great too on clear coats, but not on glass as it turns psychedelic on contact and would need to be replaced…I’ve got spectacles to prove it.
I’ve never had that problem on glass with wheel brightener, I just rinse it, spray, brush for 30 seconds and rinse off.
At work we use Auto Magic Spoke to clean mineral deposits like those and it works 95% of the time, we do 20:1 and if it doesn't budge 10:1 before we start trying to use the buffer
That’s great if it’s working well for you guys. I’d say that in my experience going too strong with acid cleaners can cause damage and premature wear on paint and trims - that’s just my experience which may be different to yours.
Legendary effort and meticulously explained as usual!
Good grief, that car had awful spotting/etching! You did a fine job getting it to look how it should.
I like the new intro... especially the sound! A v8 engine is one of the best sounds there is.
Be well, Sandro😃🏎
Great stuff as always, I'm always having water spotting issues in glass so this is a great look at ways to rectify. Also makes me feel a little more at ease on the time that some things can take :).
I've bought Ceriglass with some rayon pads to do my glass. Have heard great things about the combo so am hoping for a good result. Nice vid yet again Sandro 👍
Anxious to learn your findings. That stuff ain’t cheap.
@@snail415 150ml plus 2x 75mm rayon pads as a kit, £14.99 on eBay. Pretty sure it'll do more than 1 car so I'm happy with that especially as it's a once in a blue moon job. Or at least should be.
Be careful, it scratched my windscreen, don't think all glass is the same, wont touch it anymore. I contacted Sandro about it and he also is reluctant to use it. Just be careful and do a small test section
@@TommoC123 ok, will do. Appreciate the heads up! 👍
We all have different experiences with different products, but I did personally find that CeriGlass and the Rayon pads did leave tiny tick marks and swirls on several occasions that I couldn’t refine or remove which is why I personally don’t tend to use it.
Great, concise video Sandro. Couple of quick questions-
1. That Shine Mate: Do you ever get ‘battery fatigue’? Do you ever prefer a corded polisher for certain projects?
2. Are Meguiars products always more expensive for you to get your hands on? I just bought M110 Ultra Speed Compound. Rated at 1,200-grit removal, not smelling like an oil refinery, and costing only $29 for a 32oz bottle (for me), it’s an incredible value. I immediately almost preferred it to Griot’s FCC because it is very quick and singular in focus. If you can score it, I’d love to see your results against the more high-end products you use.
Cheers mate!
Hi, What do you mean singular in focus for M110? That it’s strictly a heavy cut that needs to be followed up?
@@qwikss4469 In my opinion/experience, it’s best to. But I see that as a good thing. While FCC is very versatile and ‘pad-modular’, I like using ‘a big hammer for big-hammer work.’
M110 has a longer working time than Megs’ older stuff by a long shot. While I’m sure that FCC can yield a great finish if you only had that tool in the toolbox, it takes longer to get the cutting results M110 gives you in seconds. It doesn’t stink or try to smell like a candle, and it has a consistency of a light exfoliating cream. It’s after cutting.
If you really, really want a product that cuts in amazing way, look for LVR 321 by Xtreme Solutions in NJ, USA. It’s phenomenal. I’ve cut 1,000-grit scratches and even orange peel with it. And it certainly works on glass as a starter product.
Long-winded here, but I’m just not a one-step guy. That’s my attraction to products that get one thing best vs everything good. Cheers.
Thanks Justin, and no I can’t say I’ve gotten fatigued from using the cordless polishers, the newer Ex620 corded polishers do have unbelievable torque so I sometimes gravitate to them instead.
I think I gave up on waiting for M110 and M210 to arrive in Australia after seeing it at Sema 3yrs ago! I think it’s a shame that Meguiars products take a lifetime to arrive in Australia if at all, whereas other brands come here super quick and it’s also a shame that Meguiars inflates their prices here so much loosing the value aspect of the brand. But thanks for sharing that mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks Sandro. I apologize- My question regarding ‘battery fatigue’ was my unclear term regarding anxiety over “When is that battery is gonna wear-out?”. I battle with the pros and cons of such equipment for mostly that reason. Any loss in consistent power compared to a similarly-spec’d corded version? Thanks.
No worries mate, I personally have 4 batteries and two chargers so I never run out of juice no mater how hard I go. The battery tech is getting really good, I’ve also heard that there’s some new even better batteries in the pipeline that will go even longer and harder. At home I use Milwaukee power tools and I haven’t bought a corded power tool in two years, cordless is just so much easier and convenient.
Great video mate, I've been looking for an Aussie doing this. Thanks for the advice
Awesome 👏 video mate and the finish was amazing 😉 I really enjoyed it much love enjoy your evening 🙏🙏👌👌💯💯👍👍🤙🤙🤙
Beautiful result! 🤩
Looks brand new! Great job 👍
Another awesome video with great content. Thanks Sandro. 🙂
Beautiful Sandro!
Looked like crocodile skin in some parts Sandro but you smashed it!
I have used Osren water spot remover with easy success but that was
On a rear window VW Amarok with town water spots. 👍
Another great video! Thanks for sharing
came for the results stayed for the most pleasant aussie accent ive heard
Hey Sandro, could you make a video talking about what you look to have in your detailing studio and an insight on how you set your tools on your new studio?
I’ll most likely do a video once the new setup is completed
in Mexico there is a product called fot-c that handles this issue in seconds, no need to polish or use machines
probably a strong acid
@@dimmacommunication not that acid because i’ve handled it with bare hands and i had not itching or any damage at all
God that paint looks like glass! Well done Sandro and thanks again for the tips!
Amazing work Sir.
i all don't like working of glass too but I later discovered that using 2000 and 3000 gtit sand papers on glass before finally polishing with matching makes it easier
Patience! Patience! And yes more patience!
End results look great
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support!!
Amazing result 👍
Great vids and tips all the time. Cheers
Sandro, The Vehicle turned out amazing. In your experience is there a greater challenge in removing water spots from coastal Salt water vs Rain or Lawn irrigation?
Thanks and yes without a doubt, the hardest water spotted vehicles I’ve previously worked on were all near the beach.
Awesome and realistic. Thank you
After watching the video, it took me 6hours non stop polishing a single car. So tired 😪. From: Singapore.
Greetings Maestro from Monterrey México 🇲🇽
Going through this now with a 3 yr old truck. Love the look of a shiney black car but Never buying a dark painted car again. Light gray from now on. Too much aggravation
They do look the best tho
Chemical guys HEAVY DUTY WATER SPOT REMOVER , amazing product 👌 needs just 2 minutes no need for buffer applying by hand
Bar keepers friend on glass water marks work really well. Personally I've found its faster and better than polishing.
I have used barkeeper's friend on
the glass for years. Never had a problem and it always removed the aged water spots. It isn't instant but after several coatings and polishing they eventually disappear.
Fantastic info provided
Good tips and nice video that I personally think is absolutely educational I being doing this job for a long time on boats and what I going to said is that you can avoid all that work just by dry your 🚗 or 🚢 everytime you washed money and time on your life will be there thanks for the video
Bar keepers friend is the best for glass/windows with water spots
Hand polish with wax and microfiber for paint, bar keepers friend for glass. No need to over complicate it.
Is there a recommended wax, thanks?
Good day Sandro, I’ve never seen such advanced etching on paint. Thank you for taking the time to compare three separate products and pads. For your IPA solution, do you recommend 50/50 to water for dilution? My apologies if you’ve already answered this question recently. Excellent information and presentation. 🍻🇨🇦
My pleasure mate, and if it’s 100% isopropyl alcohol I generally mix it with 4 parts deionised water
Alluminium brightner 50/50 wash would half cleaned those water spots off the paint so much more. On the glass it would come completely off without needed to polish it in minutes. It will not harm the paint or glass...i been doing it for years..There is a way to do it though. Try it out...Duarte.
Like I mentioned at the start of the video, I use an acid wash that actually did remove a lot of the mineral despots- they were much worse before that. I’m a little weary of using overly harsh acid cleaners due to past experience of them damaging paint and trims. But I always say that if it personally works well for you that’s what really matters.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing What type of acid wash? the acid wash you used wasn't aluminium brightner...they don't work and yes can damage. I have tried them all..they don't do much. Aluminium brightner is the only thing that works if used my way and diluted correctly.
It was Carpro Descale used both as a pre-foam and then as a hand wash which worked fairly well.
Beautiful Correction... How did you top-coat ? Did you lock down that work with a Ceramic ? If you don't mind sharing, what product did you use to top-coat ?
Thanks and I can’t remember for sure but it may have been ceramic coated with Nv Nova Evo: www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-evo-hybrid-ceramic-coating?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
Once again, another amazing video with tons of value for me even though it couldn’t be longer Sandro!
In your experience, could Carpro Ultracut be a good candidate in this situation to achieve just as great a result for a one-step on paint and even work on glass? Saw your previous vids on Ultracut and it blew me away!
Thanks and yes absolutely, UltraCut also has both great cutting and finishing abilities so I would guess it could’ve working just as well.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Awesome stuff! Appreciate the consistent hard work and pushing vids Sandro! 💯👍
great work
Moved straight into the new waxit training facilities 😆
Marvelous work.Have you ever faced a situation that watermarks/etching reappear after certain time . I had the same problem and i though i remove the problem but it was just evaporate them with the heat .After 45 minutes in the sun all came back .
Yes I have had watermarks come back up with sun and even other scratches and defects, it’s usually if they are quite bad to start with. Paint swelling can sometimes temporarily hide them if you work with too much heat and expand the paint while compounding. Making sure you use an acid cleaner/water spot remover during the wash can also help avoid it at times. But sometimes it’s just a process that needs to be repeated if the paint is heavily contaminated with mineral deposits.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you Sandro much appreciate. I also used acid bath /water spot removal .Wool pad and rotary was the only solution to complete remove the problem .Thank you once again
@@spiros271hi, i want to ask a question. You used acid bath and water spot removers and polished the car and did water spots come back? I am trying to solve this problem but couldn’t find any certain solution. All water spots came back after i used wsr and polished car twice.
Great video,, Sandro! If you had to guess, Do you think you could have gotten the results you wanted in 1 step using a Rupes yellow wool pad?
Being that it was a harder paint, yes the Rupes wool could have also done well.
beautiful work! I`m just curious. If you were to use microfiber or wool on this hard paint, what speedsetting on the polisher would you have used? The speedsetting 2-3, or 4 maybe 5? Do you use fast or slow armspeed?
Thanks and it does depend on a few things based around doing some tests, but I’ll generally use similar or slower machine speeds, less pressure and faster arm movements maybe even shorter working times to mitigate heat.
Wow. That's a lot of work especially on glass. For glass specifically, what do you recommend I do to prevent that? Glass sealant on all the windows?
In this case where the owner lives near the beach, using an acid leaning detergent as part of a wash routine should help avoid them.
Thank you so much! very useful!
Hi Sandro, My car glass is in very good shape, I just want to polish/clean it before I coat the glass. What kind of pad do you recommend and is CarPro Ceriglass appropriate for my purpose?
Maybe have a look at the video below, that’s how I’d generally do it. Carpro CeriGlass and the Rayon pads can be great for badly weathered glass but I wouldn’t use it in your case, it’s aggressive and can leave micro marring. Just use a light car polish.
ua-cam.com/video/8C4pLHL-zmc/v-deo.html
Looking at those hard water spots/stains gives me goosebumps!
Have you tried using razor blade with lube to scrape off most of the water spots/stains? Some of the detailers are using them here in my area.
Awesome video as always. Keep it up!
Yes those etchings where pretty bad!
I have used razor blades to remove mineral deposits and other contamination from glass - I usually bend the blade to lift the edges up - but they can work quite well especially in the very tight edges where it’s hard to polish close to the rubber seals, but sometimes you still get and outline of the etchings that need polishing to remove.
Hi Sandro,
I noticed that you've got a mesh netting attached to the warehouse roller door, is that to allow airflow in but also to block out environmental contaminants that may blow in with the wind?
Yes, the net also keeps bugs out, dims strong sunlight and rain water getting in.
Have you tried washing the car with water and then dry it off with a microfibre cloth before the water dry? It works every time for me. Water is the best solvent for water stain.
Sandro, Speechless as always 😅
I was just curious as to what combo pad and polish you think would be best to give my Mk7 Golf R with "White Paint" the same treatment as you did with this benz, im just looking for a pop/brighten up just as you stated nothing crazy
Thanks mate. You always have to do a some testing to confirm results as every paint is different, but in most cases Mercedes paint is quite hard and something similar to the combination of S2 Black and the yellow Shine Mate pad I used on this car could work quite well.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing cheers broski ill give it a go and let you know 😁🙌
Mechanical removal on glass = pain. As it is glass, I'd certainly have tried chemical removal before mechanical. I've had very good success with Pine-Sol, even on paint. However, as the paint needed correction anyway, mechanical would be the way top go there.
How effective is pine sol? Should I spray it directly on wet glass, brush and rinse off?
@@STILLNIGHTPEARL I have used it on paint after I tried washing and mild and heavy duty clay. It worked better then all of those. I used at at full strength. Granted, after applying it I wanted washed it right off each panel. The only other thing I found that worked about as good was the heavy duty Nanoskin clay sponge. It did a very good job as well. If you are using Pine Sol on glass I'd simply apply the Pine Sol to an old rag, wipe it on, wait a few minutes and wipe off with a wet rag.
@@ToddCopeland ok thank you!
What is extremely effective water spot remover without hardly damaging unprotected clear coat in any way?
Thanks so much for the great video. Learned a lot. Wondering if you suggest a specific Rayon class polishing pad instead of wool
And also a specific glass compound ? Thanks again love your channel
The Carpro Rayon pads as well as CeriGlass can be very effective if the glass is badly scratched and etched as they will have more of an impact - but CeriGlass with the Rayons do tend to leave tiny micro scratches behind that are near impossible to remove, so I wouldn’t go there unless more traditional paint compounds and pads aren’t achieving the results I’m after.
Glass can be cleaned with 0000steel wool and windex I have used it many times back in the day and then put rain x on the glass
Hey Sandro, what are hints to spot water marks/etching? Is it neglecting? Or mineral deposits thats sits there baking with sun to cause the damage.
I have ceramic on my car and just want to know how these water spots arises. Its a daily, sits under carport.
Thank you in advance!
It’s really few things. The quality of water has a big impact, tap water is usually worse but rain water around city, industrial and airport areas is also bad in my experience. Sunlight is another big factor, water drying in direct sunlight is very prone to etchings. The other thing is time and build up. Water spots usually come of easily if you get to them right away, but when they are left on and then more water spots are created over them that’s when the situation gets bad.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing mad thanks for ur wisdom!
Sandro on your demo that starts at 4:16 it looks like you did 5 sets of passes and I didn't see any break to clean the pad or reapply any polish. Is your technique still to do two sets, then blow out the pad and continue on? thanks
Great stuff Sandro! I have previously used the Autoglym glass polish, which did a great job on a foam pad. Do you have any thoughts on those specific glass polishes ?
I didn’t seem to have great success with the AG glass polish but it’s probably been a decade since last used it, so it could be worth revisiting, but I’ve personally had better results with paint compounds in general compared to glass ones.
I have water spots on my car that has clearly etched into the clearcoat, because using Gyeon Water did not really do much to remove it.
Which means that I have to probably resort to cutting and polishing with a machine.
If so, what compound and pad do you recommend to use for removing hard water spots? Is one step enough, or is two steps required?
And what type of car shampoo do I have to use beforehand? I currently have Adam's Graphene Shampoo but I'm looking at other options.
I just bought a Shinemate EX620 and EX603 based on your recommendation. Thanks!
I’ll give you a link to a hopefully helpful video that takes you through both the wash and prep as well as the correction stage: ua-cam.com/video/6tepA3wjPbY/v-deo.htmlsi=Fa0t6IIAjhhgRXce
The thing about correction and what is needed is that is going to be based on the defects - that can vary a lot - as well as the paint type - which again can vary immensely from soft to hard - and there’s many other factors like environment, skill level and technique that all play a vital part in the results you achieve.
The best and really only way to discover what combination to use is to do a few test sections - the video I linked will guide you through that process and help you determine the best combination for your specific paint and it’s defects - no matter if they are scratches or water etchings.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks! Can you recommend a cutting and polishing compound? You recommended NV finesse and Scholls but they are not available where I live.
@Lesparta there’s lots of great compounds around and if you a fine, medium and coarse grade it should cover all your needs. Meguiars M210(fine) Ultimate Compound(medium) and M110(coarse) are another great option and should be widely available. Rupes DA Coarse, Fine and Ultra Fine are also great options.
Thanks for this great video. How would you handle factory tinted windows? I heard those cant be polished.
Factory tinted glass which tends to be mostly sunroof or panoramic glass can absolutely be polished in this same manner - the car in this video had it, I have it on my own cars and have done it countless times on clients cars, no issue at all as long as you’re polishing the exterior side on the glass.
Awesome thanks! Ive done it as well but noticed the window surface get this rainbow style effect as you wipe off compound . Thought it was an issue. Thanks!
Sandro, over the look last year I have had 3 cars with similar water spots as your Mercedes had. I removed them and the paint was gorgeous, then I coated them. Within 12 hours, each of them had all the water spots reappear, it was like the ceramic coating acted as a wicking agent. The spots were much smaller but just as numerous. Two were black and one was red. I used the same acid wash from carpro and also used 3D gel water spot remover on severe spots, then used either the Rupes blue or yellow wool pads with DA coarse, then finished with white pad and UNO Pure. Any ideas on how to prevent that from happening again?
Both UV (strong direct sunlight) and infrared light (lamps) can be used before and/or after correction to get minerals deposits/water spots to quickly resurface and/or check that they are truely gone.
I’ve also found that using primer polishes like Carpro Essence can significantly help prevent water spots from resurfacing.
I’ve also found that trying to compound/polish with as little heat as possible in your technique helps truly eliminate them rather than temporarily removing them - increased heat can swell paint which tends to just mask them.
They can be a real pain and I’ve certainly had the same thing happen to me in the past, but those mentioned tips/processes have helped me out.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingwhat if used acid wash and polish but water spots come back again? I am trying to solve this problem for about 6 months but whenever i polish and wash the car, i see same spots on roof and hood. I use Koch Chemie F6 and M3 with DA polisher and dont let heat the surface. Also i tried Koch Chemie FSE, Car Pro Spotless and white vinegar but no result.
Sound like a real pain and ongoing issue, that’s not something I’ve experienced over and over again on the same car - usually they do go away for me after a second attempt.
The only thing I can suggest that you may not have tried is Carpro Essence (a primer polish) it can in my experience prevent them from resurfacing. It’s important that you firstly try and get all the minerals to reappear with UV light, that’s very important, then use Essence to remove them entirely (if need be you can use it with a more aggressive wool pad to firstly remove them and then use Essence with a foam polish to finish well) and let it cure for at least 4-6 hours out of direct sunlight. It’s also import that you don’t create excess heat in this polishing process. You can manage heat by using compressed air to blow out your pads after each polishing cycle - which also cools the pads and rotate a few pads allowing them to cool during the process.
Beyond that I’m not sure what else I can suggest that you haven’t already tried.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks for your reply. I will try polishing again after a acid wash. I will write the result.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i want to ask another question. What if i leave these spots? They will sit at the same level or will i have to do aggresive methods to remove them in the future?
You should try using sudfactory’s water spot remover. Could literally do this entire car in an hour no joke.
bro i ordered a big order from sud and never received it and they never got back to me from multiple time reaching out. ended up disputing the order thru the bank
Would that glass method work with a da polisher
Yes it will, it’s just a little harder to do the edges and will take a bit longer.
Great job
Hi Sandro, I live in a place where borehioles are used by my clients and in most cases the waterspots are really etched in, and even Scholls S2 Black on wool, on A rupes Mille wont remove them. Am I doing something wrong like not using a waterspot remover before hand? Its not easily found this side of the world, and we also have really hot weather all the time
A strong acid cleaner can help to remove and reduce sone of those etching before you polish to hopefully make the correction there easier. You don’t have to you a specific water spot remover, you can also use stronger an acid wheel cleaner or metal acid cleaner. You just have be careful about getting those stronger acidic on surrounding rubber and plastic trims as they can cause damage. But apart from that just work small areas and rotary will tend to be a bit more effect than the Mille. It’s hard work mate so don’t think your doing anything wrong, it’s just the way it goes.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you so much for the advice and kind words , I really do appreciate them. I have been thinking about learning the art of the Rotary but I've been detailing with forced rotation and long throw DAs for the past 11 years. I've watched your Rotary video, and while it is good, maybe as a future idea you could do an instructional video for those used to DAs , how to use the rotary and tips and tricks, dos and don'ts
Cool video mate, I’ve just bought my first brand new black car 3 weeks ago and have found these white spots suddenly appeared, and I don’t live near the coast .
The car was ceramic coated and I was told only to use ph neutral shampoo, which was supplied when I bought the car and I tried to wash it to remove the water spots later in the afternoon/evening once the sun went down, and it looked good once I finished but got up this morning to find even more of the white spots on the paintwork and glass 😳
The car was completely rinsed down after washing but just left it to dry naturally over night.
I only used the soft toweling cloth supplied with the shampoo, spot remover and fine line remover pack I was given when I bought the car.
Any ideas if it’s ok to use something other than the ph neutral shampoo supplied.
Cheers 🍻
A quality ceramic coating that’s correctly applied to well prepared paint will be very chemical resistant so you can absolutely use stronger chemicals (if needed) to help clean and remove contaminants such as water spots once the coating is fully cured. Some advise I can also give is that you should always dry the vehicle after washing with a microfibre drying towel or even just blown air - a leaf or car blower works great. So never let standing water just dry on its own as that’s what creates water spots. Ceramic coatings are also the most valuable to water spotting in the first few days and weeks after application and unfortunately many if not most dealerships ceramic coatings don’t tend to be the best.
I’ll give you a link to a video I made about maintaining and deep cleaning ceramic coatings as well - hope this helps mate.
ua-cam.com/video/vWYyw-yKM3A/v-deo.htmlsi=uCH5aqmOm1ZQZbdY
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing champion mate thank you for your reply, will rain leave these mineral water spots or is it just from tap water? I did hose the car off about two weeks after getting it and I think it was after that they appeared 🤷♂️
I’m also here in 🇦🇺 so are there brands of car care products you recommend that are available from local auto shops like Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn ,ect and I’m guessing from your reply you should hand dry or blow the car dry after washing, are the towels used just called car drying towels?
Cheers
@mattmill7056 Rain water is less likely to leave water spots but it still can particularly around city areas, airports and industrial areas where the air isn’t as clean. I did a video on my personal favourite detailing products so you can have a look at it and the items are also listed in the description box, but yes a microfibre drying towel is a larger thick pile towel and there’s quite a few around:
ua-cam.com/video/TaIeHl9WFVI/v-deo.htmlsi=NBv_pugsv-h6ne-o
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing legend 👌 if I was in Victoria I know where I would be going for my car detailing!
Epic turnaround...... but the car will return to that environment only to be water etched again. Yes ? Is there any effective protection to mitigate against such etching ?? Seawater environment is pretty aggressive
The best thing the owner can do is try and use an acid pre-soak foam and hand wash like Descale once a month or so which should help eliminate light spotting before it becomes extreme etchings. Maintenance is really the key in not letting it get this bad again.
Hi Sandro, very nice work on this one! just a quick question if you have the time, I’m sharing the same experience with you on ceriglass and rayon pads, and I’m wondering if I could use just a fine polish with a foam pad to just CLEAN the glass prior to coating it ? I’m not looking for any correction, just deep cleaning it
Thanks mate. I don’t think you need to necessarily polish if you use detergents & chemically strip the glass as well as clay it, you can absolutely still get a bond with a coating doing that. But I will say that personally I do find the micro polishing abrasives (found in any car polish/compound) do tend to strip, deep clean and produce clarity the glass uniquely in a way that other processes can’t. But again, I don’t feel it’s absolutely necessary to polish.
Its always better to us an MDR(Mineral Deposit Remover) to remove water etching from glasses. If the etching is severe you might have to do multiple passes but way more easier than compounding.
You may have missed it but I used and covered using acid cleaners on this car at the start of the video and provide a link to another video that walks through that process. It certainly helped a lot but these weren’t merely mineral deposits siting on the glass they were etched in beneath the surface for over a decade on this vehicle and it wasn’t just about glass it included paint. Strong acid cleaners also tend to kill surrounding rubber trims, haze plastics, metals and paint in my experience. They certainly have their uses and I’m happy you’re achieving great results with them, but they also have many issues and can destroy a vehicle’s condition with repeated heavy use - there’s no magic solution, every process have pros and cons, this was one way of doing it that also has pros and cons.
Great video as usual mate. Im looking to do some moderate to light paint correction on our family cars. I was told to use an all in one such as Sonax perfect finish to save a lot of time. Ive been using meguiars hybrid ceramic wax on our cars and its been giving good durability ie up to 6 months. Apparently the all in ones will give around 3months protection. Id like something that will do a cut and polish in one step so i can still use the meguiars that i have on hand. Can u recommend something please? Many thanks and really enjoy your channel.
Thanks, but Sonax PF isn’t an all in one polish so it won’t leave any protection behind, it can be regarded as a one step polish, but it is purely a polish to remove light to moderate defects and you could certainly use Meguiars HCW after using it to seal the finish as you have been.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks Sandro, I must have confused the sonax with another product. Im now thinking of trying Angelwax Regenerate for bang for buck, considering sonax is one of the most expensive ones out there. Have u tried Regenerate? I searched your videos but couldnt find it. Cheers mate
I don’t believe I’ve tried, I may have but really can’t remember, in any case I couldn’t comment on it from personal use
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok thx. Enjoy your Sunday
4th
Watching from Costco 😄😄👌
Uuu, lovely ☺️
Many thanks !
Maybe white vinegar at what acidity level , 15 - 25 % . Spray it on and wait for how manyminutes and pressure wash it off . Or to agitate it with ? then to wash off .
What is the acid wash you used initially?
Carpro Descale
Carpro Descale, would it work?