Our First Glassing Job Came to Bite Us in the AS$ (MJ Sailing - Ep 342)
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- The sole of our bridge deck is full of dips, and we need to get it level. But how do we do it without adding weight?
We knew this would be a problem when we started, but now it's been 3 years and we forgot about it!
Since we're so close to getting paint on, I need to think of all the coves/fillets for our spaces. Mostly our bridge deck has been ignored for fairing because there were so many other things to think of. But since the hulls are coming to a close, I went to see what I could easily work on up there.
Then I found out that our cabin sole is very uneven and needs filling! Up to 10 mm in spaces!! What do we do to get a level finish? Bond in pieces of foam? Uses multiple gallons of fairing compound?
This was something which was supposed to be a 'later' problem when we started, but now it has come time to deal with it.
Follow as we go through what would be the best option for us.
We hope you enjoy!
Thank you SO MUCH to all our Patrons for your continued support! Without your help, these videos, And This Build, would not be possible.
Much love,
Every time I think that I have a lot of work to do on our boat, I watch one of these vlogs and realize how little work I actually need to do. Amazing work. Can’t wait to see it coming together. And, Colby is a rock star.
Colby has been a life saver!! We're so fortunate to have him in the yard with us!
@@MJSailingReach out to Cork insulation suppliers for your deck infill some have a crumbed cork product that can be trowelled on with the cork completely encapsulated in the binder, a bit like that crumbed tyre rubber they use in playgrounds! Odd life Crafting & Sail Hub are going to insulate their aluminium boats & have insulated their vans with spray Cork maybe they have good company contacts?
Building your own fiberglass boat and getting good result takes a huge amount of hours. You also needs skills, and you got skills and perseverance to get it right.
Bit by bit. Don't get overwhelmed. You have come a long way. 😊
I think pourable self leveler is the way to go!! Keep up the great work!! Love the progress.
It is a concrete substance & will not bond well to the underlying fibreglass plus its heavy you could easily use several hundred pounds of product there.
as @jackdbur replied... concrete based product is very heavy, and has even less intetesting load to weight capacity in any situation else than in conpression. It would just participate in reducing drasticaly their cargo capacity.
Such an interesting episode watching you define the problem and mentally explore the solutions you can consider with the available materials. You have acquired so many boat building skills and problem solving tools. I'm so impressed.
Good old shag carpet !
Colby is a brave man sticking his head and arm under that box.
Oh no! I hate chisel-ply! To this armchair boatbuilder you two made it mostly look so cool and controlled… and this makes it look a bit more like my own projects. Huge hugs for all the gremlin work, you’ll get through it I am sure!
Kudos to Colby for sharing his toys!
Feels like you need a bit of a break guys. Maybe 2 or 3 weeks off UA-cam relaxing with family/friends/no-one! Even if not, take care of yourselves and each other and make sure you keep enjoying the build. Best wishes from the UK.
After spending the weekend eating shit on my boat in the heat up here in Darwin it’s nice to watch you guys doing the same. The difference is I’m watching you guys work whilst being inside in the aircon!. Keep at it people.
We find throwing cardboard on the floor at the start of a project (or as cardboard becomes available from purchases) helps.
I've had cardboard on my "new" bedroom floor for 7 yrs ... it's time I finish the trim. hahahah
@@SteifWoodOuch!!
Learning curves on big projects are expensive. Hang in there! You got this.
I am amazed of the amount of detail you have to due and the square feet of surface preparation is off the charts !! Your doing a great job!!
I've seen a man , wife and daughter rebuild a approximately 43 ft, Cat, over an maybe ten year time line, they did a wonderful job. Just as you two did. 10:38 But for a lady And man putting together a complete catermaran by themselves is just awesome almost unbelievable, What a great job ,,,
I hope the air compressor providing the air for your sander is "oil less" otherwise the tool is exhausting a microscopic oil mist which can affect your bonds.
ANY compressor should have a good filter system behind it to remove any oil or condensation which is worse during cold air conditions. They aren't that expensive but eliminate contamination issues.
Saya sangat bangga dengan karya sodaraku❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉
I bet many production boats have floors that have the same issues and maybe worse. Few if any buyers put a straight edge on the floor but if they did they'd be surprised.
I can guarantee you'd notice this difference if aboard our boat. Most boats have a double floor, so the top layer - what you walk on--- is easily made flat. To save weight, this doesn't use a second level, so we must make the final surface flat
This calls for innovative thinking... Easy.... Wack a couple of drain fittings into the valleys and use what you have got... Completed, it will look like an amazing design feature... You will get water in there after all, at some stage...
Cut a sheet of ply to the area you want to fill.Put a lot of weights on so it can't move.
Then get a spray foam that doesn't expand much, drill holes in the ply so that you can spray the foam underneath the ply.when you have filled as much as you can with each hole block it with tape, and move to the next hole.Once it's set remove the ply.
That would be easier to finish without having to spoil the lightweight foam which is good to keep for future "sandwich" composed lightweight shelves or stiff wall
Damm I feel sorry for you guys that's so much work! At the catamaran factories they use an army of construction workers to do what you're doing.
First gab a Level instead a straight Edge. Look at A foam mix. A+B that when dry you can Sand it with a floor Sander this Way wife doesn’t have to sand All day or use the floor Sander (when you put wood Flors) to hit the High Areas then Lay down Carbon Fiber for strength
We're not trying to make it level, we're concerned with it being flat. The area slopes down naturally outboard and we are keeping it that way.
Massive amount of time and sacrifice but the end result will be amazing. Sailing in style and luxury.
I'd be renting a big floor sander like they use for hardwood floors. Would make quick work & likely smoother because of the large sanding surface. Fun Fun
and remove the very structural material that gives the boat structure. You have to be very careful not don't thin your laminations.
@@judd_s5643 Sanding level is dependent upon grit used, not motion of the ocean. I didn't say "remove structural material". They are obviously going to have to build up material to get it all level, then sand to final finish. My point was instead of using a little hand sander, use a big boy tool to finish more surface quicker = way less time & labor.
Random idea: gluing the foam into the valleys means you need to level off the tops in line with the peaks. Use a router leveling sled, like they do for large slabs of wood. You can either router out the entire top surface, or just put in “guide lines” every inch or two, then use this as guides to sand down to.
Looking forward to meeting you in Annapolis!
I went back and took a look at the episodes where you put the bridge pieces together (181) and also a few afterwards. Is this a single layer where the other side is what you sanded gel coat away to bond? If it is, it looks to me like the whole structure has flexed downward where there are no deck beams because there was no fiberglass strengthening the upper side. I would take a look underneath to see if there is any change on what will be exposed to the water. This scares the crap out of me!
It's because of the different thicknesses of core used in the infusion. No issues with strength, but I believe they have changed this on new builds to one thickness to eliminate this issue.
What’s underneath the galley floor?
The composite is fiberglass on top, foam core and then fiberglass underneath.
I expeeienced few times warping when laminating foamboards... they curve with the curing if not held flat by external material and get more messy if not holding flat when laminating the second side. I will have to try a vacuum table someday to keep the boards flat all along curing time.
Some day this will all be a distant memory. I was not impressed with your shed either, I didn’t think you needed outside naysayers chipping with their opinions. I’m glad you got a good strong/warm shed to work in. Good luck with the floor. ❤️🙏
Seam joints and varying ligh and low areas on the cabin floor. More cleaning and sanding and cleaning.
I original said this would take 10 years I was wrong , this is gonna take 10-15 years.
Yes. 3/8" variation in 3 ft. Is visually hard to "hide". Drywall can do it with more coats of tape and avoiding high sheen surfaces. On our exterior mono deck we replaced the nonskid with a European sourced urethane sheet material with a 40 durometer hardness, 9 mm thickness. It was adhered with two part epoxy. Highly recomend urethane vs EPDM sheet. Delighted you are out of the shed and scheduling some assistance. Last 10% will take 90% of the time!!
Sika do a lightweight self levelling compound - Sikafloor Marine 120. No idea of cost in your area. Can be laid up to 30mm, is single pack product and a 16 kg bag at layer thickness 1 mm will cover 17m sq. Given the area of your bridgedeck its not a horrendous weight penalty.
The Sika is 1000kg/m3 vs 100kg/m3 for the foam. Yes, not a huge amount, but the weight of everything adds up fast :). I'm not sure how controllable the pourable stuff is, but we need flat and not level. There is a natural slope outboard that we'd like to maintain.
Not suitable for you as it sets level and wouldn't maintain the slope you desire
Thanks. That's great to know! I love when someone with some experience shares this type of information.
@MJSailing Disagree.I use floor levelers all the time and you can mix it thick or thin.If you mix it thick it's almost like plastering.
Yes you're correct. I do too, but you need a degree of skill that comes with having used the product multiple times. If you mix as per MI's, it'll do what is says on the can...self level. I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that M & J would prefer a product that gives a simpler solution, rather than experimenting with an unfamiliar product.
You might consider a liquid floor leveler to fill in the depressions in your floor. I used a floor leveler to level the depressions and irregularities in the floor prior to installing floor tile. Good luck on the repair.
That's for a house floor the cabin sole in a catamaran will have a bit of movement and the occational wave slap that will crack the leveling material, which is cement based of sort.
Was wondering if you will leave a slight camber on the floor to allow water to flow away. It also seems to me that the boat will flex while your building it, you change the loads and stresses on it all the time. Lastly, is this not something that could wait till the boat is floating, Seems to me structural stuff should come first then asthetics,
You're right about the bridge deck having a natural slope outboard from the centerline. We are trying to make the surface flat, not level, so it's more of a job for a fairing instead of anything that self levels.
You need a longboard sander
很多年前，你们刚买了一艘铝合金的船，那时候我还对你们留言说，铝合金不需要上油漆。我看到你的眼神很疲惫，不知道发生了什么事，希望你可以整理一下生活，变得开心。
What a total pain in the arse! (not ass, I'm a kiwi). Is that not some design fault, a 10mm gap is big, I was quite shocked watching it. Or, with hindsight should you somehow have supported the floor between bearers when you originally glassed it?
Yup, I think you’re on the right track.
It’s also occurred to me that the various pieces were less than perfectly supported in shipping and if they’d been subject to elevated temps while in transit, being fairly “green” laminate, they may well have picked up a fair bit of distortion that set in, particularly the larger flatter items.
I’ve had snags refitting composite bodywork to race bikes and cars that fitted perfectly the season before but, having been stored “safe” in a central heated house over the winter to keep them free of workshop wear & tear while the chassis and engines were being overhauled, come the spring and time to get back out for the next race season didn’t even go close to their mounting points or the other panels they had to marry with.
After a few seasons of having the problems repeat I eventually got around to fabricating storage jigs that they could be kept fully assembled on and suspended from the workshop ceiling…end of problem.
Tbh, it vaguely occurred to me as a potential snag when the container was shown being unloaded, but it seemed that shortly afterwards everything was fitting together without much hassle, so didn’t think to mention it.
Now I’m feeling a bit guilty, but I’m just a random idiot in the comments and didn’t expect any sensible person to take too much notice of my idle thoughts.
Cheers, R.
It's from the factory using different thicknesses of coring in the infusion that caused the divots. I believe they now do one thickness throughout to help eliminate this additional work.
@@MJSailing Aah, thanks for clarifying, I’ll stop feeling guilty then.
Sounds like a bit of an oversight but it’s all part of the process, though it’s a bummer for you guys to trip over the snag.
@@MJSailing That makes sense but is still a pain for you guys, I was stunned at the gap...
Bugs, they be everywhere. I hate bugs on the Bay. Best on fixing the problems.
I'm a builder and when a floor is out like that I'd use a self lvling liquid latex... surely there's a boat version
Oooh, that’s good to know. I thought of what we used 40 years ago which was self-levelling cement (not for a boat of course 😂) but had not come across the latex evolution- thanks!
There is a marine latex, but it's weight is about ten times that of the pourable foam coring material. It's not a lot of total weight overall, but every ounce/gram adds up to a heavy boat. And we also are concerned with it being level just flat.... The bridge deck naturally slopes down outboard.
@@MJSailingYou could use thin ply or the foam board to build up the deap areas.Them level with flexible self leveler
I looked at an old video when you first started on your boat and it’s got to be encouraging to know you’re not even half way done. Seems like each week you’re just two steps forward.
I used a self levelling compound two pack and i poured it in and levels it self then light sand.
Its heavy!
Would a combination of the two work? Using strips of board and the foam. Use a laser to determine level over all the area.
Glue strips of board in the shallow holes, then put the foam around the strips. Level off. and do a fibreglass top surface for wear and tear. Test the foam for squeaking. Make a test piece. Use the piggy back method (M + J weight) to test to see if there are squeaks or indentations.
Don't get me wrong, I totally respect your experience but getting to know the whole picture for sanding newbies can save a lot of effort and strife. My experience of buying sandpaper has been from the stuff where the glue is gone so it's literally paper in seconds, to good quality, but I've never purchased super modern high end expensive stuff. I can't see you replacing sand paper much. Might just be the editing and you keeping a clean and tiidy work area. Kudos. If you're using the expensive stuff trying to make it last, try the mid range/cheap stuff maybe you have to cut it out from a roll but it still removes debri at a good rate of knots and the second it's not chewing as quick as possible, throw it out and slap a new pad on there. The amount of time and effort I see people trying to elongate expensive stuff that's clearly clogged or lost its 80 grit 40 grit status long ago, is clearly a huge waste of time and effort. Sand paper is to be looked at as disposable, it has 2 particular characteristics and those are is it nice and sharp and is the the glue it's made with strong enough to last till it's clogged? Clog it and throw it, no ooh let's save this $$$ sand paper and see how long we can get it to last.... If that was my job there'd be a pile of new of pads somewhere and old dull clogged pads all over the place. Always be checking are you sanding with garbage, change it out? But I'd be done quicker with less vibration damage to my joints and cartilage, than anyone trying to elongate expensive stuff. You can honestly get good sandpaper not too expensive that doesn't lose it's integrity. Don't let that garbage glue stuff push you away to using the super expensive stuff that people elongate because of the price, the sweet spot is 1 level above the absolute garbage paper that all the sand comes off of because the glue's useless that they used to create it with. Literally 'rip off' quality exists too much, but the stuff just above that works well for clog it and chuck it, replace it with sharp new sand paper again, that's the quickest way to remove a lot of material to the least detriment to the body. Anyway each to their own, but that's what a lot of aches and pains taught me. Thank you for sharing your vast amount of experience and awesome work ethic!
We get the Mirka mesh for anything that doesn't gum up the paper --- and I firmly believe it last way longer than anything I've used. You can buy it cheap from a few suppliers overseas. We use cheap paper for areas that do gum up the paper. And yes, there is a point of diminishing returns when over using paper instead of just ripping it off and putting a new sheet on.
Use expanding foam to fill the gap and cut or sand the excess to level the floor.
That's our current plan. We just need to lightly glass the top of this to lock it all in place.
@@MJSailingMaybe crumbed Cork ? You can get it in tubs with binder & trowel it down.
Dang -trying to brainstorm- could you cut ring off a pvc pipe and use them as blocking ? just use a laser level hold the pipe against the floor and mark it - then cut the pc off and glue down- Do that about 150 to 200 times possibly 300--- almost like that honeycomb grid system you put down in a grassy parking spot - to protect the grass from being compacted. Then you possibly could then even use the two part foam you have to fill in. then carve it down to the tops of the pipes.
You are doing terrifically. You are reinforcing those joints that is good. I think you were supposed to put some flat sticks across it when assembling it. No problem. I just viewed a 27 foot sailboat and it was a disaster. No table just two benches inside. A sink and opposite a toilet and there was no door I guess it was a show it all toilet. There was a tiller at the stern . An outboard motor. And the cockpit so shallow one wave could wash you overboard. The floor had rotted out so that there was no floor. They crashed the side so the aluminum was bent and fiberglass delaminated. It was a disaster.bnest to it was a 33 foot yacht and it was so much bigger and nicer. So you will have a gorgeous catamaran when finished. It will be gorgeous. Maybe plywood would be better for the floor and you could taper it easier or use multiple cut thinner pieces. Good Luck!!!
.
I wonder, if you can get the boat level, is their an equivalent to self levelling cement. A Marine version of Resincoat Self Levelling Compound. Gets a little further into the video and see that is exactly what you found!
I would mock that up on some plywood and see how it works before trying in the boat.
I think I'd be looking for some kind of light weight self leveling compound. I don't know what's out there but there has to be something.
I’m going out to buy stock in Totalfair!!!!
I was hoping you would grab a 10-ft straight edge and term in the overall dip on the whole floor. Also I spacewould think there must be a lightweight floor leveling compound that might reduce the workload you are facing. I am a course assuming your cabin floor can be made absolutely level. I'm anxiously awaiting your final solution. See you next week!
If your putting foam down to build the floor up you are going to have to put a glass layer over it sufficiently thick enough to support point loading like stiletto heels!
Our plan would be a layer of 12oz DB -- Same as our furniture. But since it will also get a laminate floor wood floor over top, that should handle the point load just fine.
@@MJSailing Glad to hear you would be glassing over it. I have used that two part foam before. It DOES absorb moisture no matter what anyone says and will turn to mashed potatoes. Make sure there is no way for water to get to it or you will have a huge mess.
2part spray foam would allow kinda even lifts. Disposable kits are not expensive.
Hey guys. Great job on this project. I was wondering what they did from the factory to solve this problem. Surly it’s not unique to your build and there is a common resolution? 😊
You need floor leveler, but it may not work with all the flex, maybe with micro fibre or some kind of matting or both. Floor leveler is 5000 psi. pfox below me is saying Sika has for marine wow. I use floor leveler all the time and it makes floors perfect, there is some tricks to using it. Looked at the Sika seems the same, I have used thousands of bags of this, very easy but tricky to use, I use a pitcher to measure the water and 1/4 grooved trowel and a rounded concrete trowel, I would still add fibre or matting or both in your application. You can go as little as 1/8 to 1 1/4 but watching what you have looks pretty easy to me. P.S. mix only half a bag at a time in 5 gallon pail and mix with paddle mixer measure water, you can go a little more water and second layer are ok in spots. If you need more insight on how to use let me know and we can talk.
Maybe the shipyard can help with a solution?
They must have run into this too...👴🤷♂
If the problem is +/- 10cm why don’t you pour a self leveling compound in these areas, then you should be able to fair and cover the improved areas? Weight would be relatively small in the region of 10-20 lb
DAP Bondex Flexible Floor Ready to Use Gray Patch and Leveler or equivalent
That seems to be close to the door sill leading out of the main cabin? Should it have been fiberglassed to that door sill flange? It could be that you’re looking at sag because it’s unsupported at the end of the floor.
If you never make another video where something is being sanded, nobody will shed a tear.
Too bad they don't make some sort of liquid resin floor leveler like they do for concrete !!! Oh, well- job security !!
Unfortunately when you're building something that's in constant motion, what works for building a home, doesn't always work for our application.
So if the floor is all warping here and there why dont you put carpets all over the place ...👍
Pay someone to come float the floor out for you
Lay down some shag carpeting. Rusty brown or Orange in colour is the best and everything will be okay ;-))))))
Best answer yet!
Think about building a level grid over what you have and call it
Really trying to comment less on You Tube. So sorry to bother. Keep the wavy floor‼ Own it. Your work~ Your memory. It is the Character of the Boat. You are building something UNIQUE. The Wavy floor is part of Your Signature. Just dress it up and live with it. My story: I have bought three motorcycles on fbMP. THREE in one month, (March this year). All good bikes but all rebuild projects. ($600. each) and so. Not about perfection! Just get it to work and move on. I love the wavy floors. Move on and let it go‼ You guys have something going here that is working. 175K subscribers is pretty good. I love Total Boat. But please keep the rigging, the wind in the sails, the foam on the waves, the sun on the water, the warm breeze, the mastery of the navigation and the weather, all the smiling faces of new friends in distant ports. Yes all of that. Sooner than later. Please. ~ ✨👍✨~. New Hampshire
If you put a soft layer on the floor then when people walk on it, then it'll be soft where it's thick and not soft where it's thin. If you don't want it to be soft then you'll have to put a hard layer of something strong enough to hold peoples weight as they walk in heals over the floor.
Yup, that's why we're planning to use structural foam and then light glass over the top. Should end up with the same feeling across the entire floor area
I would have lent a floor sander from home depot😅
QUESTION, is there any way that you can prop that slump up from underneath the floor, and somehow support it from underneath
It would probably be terribly expensive to do a self leveling Material 😮
O wow i feel for you two, this will not be fun sorry...
I would ask the company what you did wrong, then ask for their advice on how to level your galley.
It was the factories use of different thickness of coring around the underside beams that caused the difference. I believe they now use one continuous sheet for this infusion
Can't you go under the floor and push it up, does that mean something else is out of level or has it dipped over time?
👍🏻👍🏻💛
Sakrete Self Leveling Underlayment
What would it take to cut out all of the floor in that space and then bond level stringers across those areas to the existing stringers then re-lay the deck ? I would think that this would be the fastest and most efficient way to address the space. Whichever way you choose, good luck!
It's just air below this surface. The floor is the interior fiberglass skin, foam core, then the exterior skin of fiberglass, just like the hull.
@@MJSailing Ahhh.. 😕
Maybe use this as an opportunity to put in a "floor" in that section that you could use for ducting / electrical wiring / cabling runs ?? Of course you probably can't afford to lose that much internal space. 😕
Could hear ya over the vacuum.
Pour an epoxy floor or add non slip additive .
Peel Ply: Did it stop just in that one section or does it continue undr the builtins?
Will the floors be covered in Flexi-Teak?
Hey, why you don1t try get better sander, look at festool rotex 150 and 90 . They are really powerful and have 2 different mode of sanding , rough setting is eating material like nothing else ,then you finish whit fine sanding . will make your life much easier whit this endless hours of sanding .
The Rotex is heavy compared to the DA. When you do a lot of vertical and overhead sanding, the weight makes a huge difference. And the DAs do a much better job of sanding and leveling. We have a Mirka electric and have used the Festool (I like Mirka better), but there is a reason pros use pneumatic tools.
Can you use a self leveling compound like for bathroom tile base? Then just coat over that?
They make a marine based type without any cement or other heavy additives, but it is still heavier than foam coring (about 2.5lbs total) or a simple fairing compound (about 15lbs with extra fiberglass needed)
So very much NOT a qualified boat person or anything, but is there such a thing as self levelling epoxy pour for the floor, specifically for a levelled boat on the hard ?
There is a product by Sika flex for Marine use --- I didn't know it existed before a viewer linked to it.
@@MJSailing Easy to forget that you are not doing this for minimum wage to pay the rent with no end in sight. My critics go out to work at something they _have_ to do just to pay bills ad infinitum - there's always more of the same for them to do until they either expire or retire.
My major workload has a final goal in mind and each stage is a rung on that goal ladder - same as you.
Just remember some people do fairing for a job - for life!
May want to invest in a laser level
If I were you guys I would fix this galley gap with using a epoxy leveler almost like the a house slab leveling concrete mix. Your mistake will add pretty decent amount of weight to the boat but besides doing a false floor that's about only way your going to fix that.
Watching what you have planned with foam I wouldn't do that cause what is actually level... just add the weight and call it a day. Epoxy level it and be done with it.
We don't need level --- it flows from the centerline down towards outboard. We need flat not level. The foam adds 2.5lbs total vs 15lbs for even the light weight fairing compound
Are you the same couple that got Elements seaworthy?
Three years on this project - I can see why.
Une Amare en va et viens sur un point mobile ne peut que rager comme la chaîne Avec la chaîne c’est l’anneau qui lâchera. Un bonne solution serait plutôt un mousqueton. Il en existe même adaptable à une gaffe pour le positionnement initial
If this were a bathroom in a home you would use floor leveler. Is there a liquid product like that you could use on the floor of your boat?
There is, but its weight is about ten times that of the pourable foam coring material. It's not a lot of total weight, but every ounce/gram adds up.
Was this an assembly mistake from the early days or does the factory have to deal with this often? I know tue factory has made improvements since you started your build, is this something they have improved?
The factory boats aren't in so many sections are they? I may well be wrong as the build has been going on for a while but I thought there's was made into sections to fit into shipping containers.
They used different thickness of core for the bridge deck depending on what load each area saw. They could have faired the foam core more and then infused the fiberglass on top of this, but instead, we need to fair it ourselves. I believe they now just use one thickness of core throughout
Use a self leveling epoxy. Problem solved in half the time.
Why not have peel ply on entire floor then peel it and boom 💥
Did I hear you say that there is no subfloor under the sole, just the single sheet of glassed foam?
It fiberglass on the top, core and fiberglass on the bottom. Just like the hulls. There is no additional level of floor like you have on most production catamarans like Lagoon and Leopard.
Looks like a half inch gap to me.
Guys you could mix Q-Cell Powder in resin,,, it's SUPER Light Weight
Q-cells and fiberglass ever 3mm is what the production yard recommends.
Yup... When Q-Cell Powder/Fibre is mixed with Resin.. ute SUPER Light 👌😁😎
It's🥴
With Epoxy resin you use the expanded polystyrene foam- POWDER💪👌😁
Super light
I have to wonder if the splash date will end up in 2026........I do hope they take their time to do things right though......
At 4:43, you can see the difference at the back of the floor relative to the cabinet/threshold. Sorry you did not pickup that deviation when it was being bonded in place.
It's not in our bonding or alignment, this deviation was somehow in the pieces when they arrived.
I'm not saying the bonding is bad, the contrary, I think your work is excellent. I'm saying if you stop the video at 4:43 and look at the line where the floor and threshold horizontal piece are bonded together, you can see the peaks and valley of the floor based on the thickness of the bonding.
Pity it was not noticed back then.
Forgive me for saying, but the sander 6:40 doesn't seem to be cutting it to my eyes. I think the sand paper is either clogged, worn out or not the correct grade. It seems to me you are making life harder for yourself.
Fast, slow, crazy slow. I sense there might be a sandable spray foam waterproof filler goto option that we're missing here.
The pourable core foam is what we plan to use. It doesn't self level too much, but since we are looking for flat and not level --- we have a natural slope outboard -- that should be fine.
Dont get discouraged just remember that Thomas edison said i did not fail, i just found 10,000 ways how not to make a light bulb.
That light bulb still is working at Dearborn Museum.
Why is the floor not level if the underside is level the the floor should be level
Different core thicknesses in the area. They should have faired the core better when the bridge deck was infused between the transitions --- and they do on later builds.
@@MJSailing well that sucks a hell of a lot of work for no reason. I’m about 6 months of finishing mine I built a schionning wilderness 1120 x they really are more work than people realise
It's the details that take all the time. We've seen a lot of amateur (and pro) builds that look like crap with no attention to detail --- but for some people, only function and speed of production matters. We enjoy the process, so detail work and the time spent isn't a chore. And congratulations on getting close to the finish line.
Send me a contact so I can send you the build I’m doing I am one aswell that cares for quality not quantity cheers greg
admin@mjsailing.com.
If this is a kit, the manufacturer did not do a very good job. Or did you?
Not follow the correct instructions on installation. I would be pissed if I was to pour foam over fiberglass to level flooring. Two part foam breaks down over time and foot traffic.
either you have super skinny fingers of that gap is about 19mm. 10mm is about 3/8".
Sounds right. 25mm is an inch.
I have super skinny fingers. My ring finger is a size 3. 🤣
It's a floor. Won't it be covered by an appropriate non-slip matting or carpeting?
I can see your stress. Perfection is an illusion. Try not to get too neurotic about it.