+Land Rover Toolbox Videos i love this channel ... as a new land rover owner i have found these videos fantastic, and easy to follow and understand thanks guys
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos this channel has taught me so much, and I'm continuing to learn as I work on my Discovery. I would like to share a method I use to fit the bushes. I don't currently have a bench vice or a press, I have a couple of hockey stick rear washers, and washers down to an M12 thread( can be bigger, but I've found that smaller wears quite quickly.) with threaded bar through the middle of the bush and bar. double nut one side, single on the other. and wind a nuts together. To allow the bush to appear out the other side I use an oversized (32mm I think) socket between the washer and the bar on the opposite side.
ah yes,..that is a good one. We do use that on suspension bushes when the spring has not been removed from the vehicle. Excellent , thanks for the share of you technique
Instead of making a relief cut to the metal part which can sometimes cut into the radius arm, a sharp chisel is also used to do the same job. It works really well and is the standard way for the MoD of removing that bush, once you pressed out the rubber part. The method for adding the bush is to use a threaded rod and a couple of big washers, and tighten up the nuts on either end. It also stops the rubber bush flying out if it starts to go in squint :-)
I found when doing my A-frame to chassis bushes, as you are doing here, that I had the same issues with the bolts being corroded to the bush sleeves. I had to also cut with a 1mm disc to remove them, but the entire bush and centre of the bolt I had cut remained firmly attached into the inner sleeve. So I had a bush, with sleeve and remains of a bolt! As I did not have access to a press I used a grinder with a grinding disc and was going to grind the sleeve and retained bolt remains flat on each side to give a better purchase to try and smash out. The heat generated from the grinding of the bush sleeve and bolt actually made the whole bush and inner sleeve fall out by itself. I then cleaned the outside of the chambered edge and sides of the frame arms with a flap disc and the heat generated from that enabled the outer sleeve to be tapped out with relative ease. I thought that was quite a good outcome and may be a handy tip for someone - just be careful with the cutting and grinding! In future I might even tap some spare bolts into the sleeve, then grind them flat to generate the heat and removed the bushing in one hit.
A little tip if you've not got a press drill out the rubber with a 4mm bit (have plenty of spares they break so easily) to weaken it then you can press the centre out on a bench vice with some muscle, worked for me on all my suspensions components but might not work on newer bushings.
Happy Easter, Mrs trailer fitter won't fall for that old "it's paint on me nails" trick, anyway another great tutorial, sound advice, if I hadn't seen this video I'd have tried unsuccessfully for hours doing these bushes, not checked mine yet I'm waiting for some warmer weather, rebuilding my discovery alfresco.
My Disco 1 A-frame does not connect to the chassis cross member using brackets. The cross member is round in profile and has lugs for the A-frame bolts directly welded to it. Removing the A-frame was an absolute bitch as the bolts were rusted and no clearance on nuts for impact sockets, angle grinder or anything else. Removed the excess rusty bolt with a finger sander, taking about half an hour each, before heat and long spanners finally prevailed. Have you seen round cross members before? My disco was from LR Special Vehicles.
1999 Def 110 300TDI w/Salisbury (Brazilian Built) I’m buying a whole poly bush kit front and rear. -Which kit do I get? 2071 or 2071A? -Do you suggest getting certain bolts, nuts, etc before you start the bush job? -I heard there is one bushing better to stay with OEM rubber. Steering? -in your vid showing the radius arm moving left and right when worn. How does the squishy poly bush not have movement side to side? Thanks. Learning a ton from your videos!
@6:32 that radius arm you're holding has an inverted V-notch protruding on the top side that the others you handle in this video do not have. You say it's from the 300tdi Defender. Could you please clarify whether that specific radius arm with the inverted V-notch, may also have been fitted to the 300tdi Discovery...??? I'm puzzled because I have a 1983 Hi-cap 110 sitting on 300tdi axles, but I don't know if the axles came from a 300tdi Defender or a 300tdi Discovery...
Also, should I measure my radius arms before buying? Or do you just center the bush in the arm? I know the oem ones have an outer sleeve, but do the poly ones care about the thickness of radius arms?
Hello great videos..? so I'm changing all my bushes on discovery 2 tomorrow with superpro ones..am I right in thinking all outer metal sleeves can be thrown away...Thanks Dave..edit by myself,yes Dave you are correct since you've done this job now plus near enough all bushes on car since..
Hi, can you tell me what 4 bushing part number for BA 3671R radius arm my son bought me for my birthday present on 1997 Land Rover discovery SE7 that I lifted 3 inches total last year ..
Hi Chris, remind us again how to subscribe (financially). I reckon I owe you a few bob. Iv'e been watching for years since you began on You Tube. I live in Australia so it's not likely i'll ever meet you but if I did i'd shake your hand and buy you a beer. Once again Thank You Heaps, Murf (200 Tdi and Disco 4)
funny you say that. A guy came up to me at the LRO show last year and introduced himself from Oz. He recognised me from the LRTV. Great conversation with him. So you never know. Patreon is here www.patreon.com/bePatron?u=4946999
Rhose poly bushes are shite. Landrover spend a great deal of time and money finding a happy medium between handing performance and flexibility. Just use the right ones! I took new poly bushes off mine as it handled like a wet bath sponge.
@@ooojcbooo So sorry for not living up to your expectation of a man. You see, I bought a 21 year old 70 series for £1000, I have owned it for 10 years of trouble free motoring. Next time I will go out and buy a 21 year old Defender for £20'000 and spend the next 10 years putting it right. Then I will be a man I guess?
Correction. 24mm not 22mm as stated in the video.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos i love this channel ... as a new land rover owner i have found these videos fantastic, and easy to follow and understand thanks guys
you're welcome
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos this channel has taught me so much, and I'm continuing to learn as I work on my Discovery. I would like to share a method I use to fit the bushes. I don't currently have a bench vice or a press, I have a couple of hockey stick rear washers, and washers down to an M12 thread( can be bigger, but I've found that smaller wears quite quickly.) with threaded bar through the middle of the bush and bar. double nut one side, single on the other. and wind a nuts together. To allow the bush to appear out the other side I use an oversized (32mm I think) socket between the washer and the bar on the opposite side.
ah yes,..that is a good one. We do use that on suspension bushes when the spring has not been removed from the vehicle. Excellent , thanks for the share of you technique
Land Rover Toolbox Videos
Instead of making a relief cut to the metal part which can sometimes cut into the radius arm, a sharp chisel is also used to do the same job. It works really well and is the standard way for the MoD of removing that bush, once you pressed out the rubber part.
The method for adding the bush is to use a threaded rod and a couple of big washers, and tighten up the nuts on either end. It also stops the rubber bush flying out if it starts to go in squint :-)
I find myself listening to these even though I am not currently fixing the part in question. =) Great tutorial as usual.
Excellent video..the way you narrate n the pros n cons on how to go about it...two thumps up
I agree with you when you said don't forget to change the Panhard rod bushes.
I did mine and it improved my steering noticeable
I found when doing my A-frame to chassis bushes, as you are doing here, that I had the same issues with the bolts being corroded to the bush sleeves. I had to also cut with a 1mm disc to remove them, but the entire bush and centre of the bolt I had cut remained firmly attached into the inner sleeve. So I had a bush, with sleeve and remains of a bolt! As I did not have access to a press I used a grinder with a grinding disc and was going to grind the sleeve and retained bolt remains flat on each side to give a better purchase to try and smash out. The heat generated from the grinding of the bush sleeve and bolt actually made the whole bush and inner sleeve fall out by itself.
I then cleaned the outside of the chambered edge and sides of the frame arms with a flap disc and the heat generated from that enabled the outer sleeve to be tapped out with relative ease.
I thought that was quite a good outcome and may be a handy tip for someone - just be careful with the cutting and grinding! In future I might even tap some spare bolts into the sleeve, then grind them flat to generate the heat and removed the bushing in one hit.
Excellent video !
Thank you for sharing mate, it helps! 👍
A little tip if you've not got a press drill out the rubber with a 4mm bit (have plenty of spares they break so easily) to weaken it then you can press the centre out on a bench vice with some muscle, worked for me on all my suspensions components but might not work on newer bushings.
Happy Easter, Mrs trailer fitter won't fall for that old "it's paint on me nails" trick, anyway another great tutorial, sound advice, if I hadn't seen this video I'd have tried unsuccessfully for hours doing these bushes, not checked mine yet I'm waiting for some warmer weather, rebuilding my discovery alfresco.
My Disco 1 A-frame does not connect to the chassis cross member using brackets. The cross member is round in profile and has lugs for the A-frame bolts directly welded to it. Removing the A-frame was an absolute bitch as the bolts were rusted and no clearance on nuts for impact sockets, angle grinder or anything else. Removed the excess rusty bolt with a finger sander, taking about half an hour each, before heat and long spanners finally prevailed. Have you seen round cross members before? My disco was from LR Special Vehicles.
And those Inch thick disks? ;o) Happy easter chief
1999 Def 110 300TDI w/Salisbury (Brazilian Built)
I’m buying a whole poly bush kit front and rear.
-Which kit do I get? 2071 or 2071A?
-Do you suggest getting certain bolts, nuts, etc before you start the bush job?
-I heard there is one bushing better to stay with OEM rubber. Steering?
-in your vid showing the radius arm moving left and right when worn. How does the squishy poly bush not have movement side to side?
Thanks. Learning a ton from your videos!
@6:32 that radius arm you're holding has an inverted V-notch protruding on the top side that the others you handle in this video do not have. You say it's from the 300tdi Defender. Could you please clarify whether that specific radius arm with the inverted V-notch, may also have been fitted to the 300tdi Discovery...???
I'm puzzled because I have a 1983 Hi-cap 110 sitting on 300tdi axles, but I don't know if the axles came from a 300tdi Defender or a 300tdi Discovery...
Also, should I measure my radius arms before buying? Or do you just center the bush in the arm? I know the oem ones have an outer sleeve, but do the poly ones care about the thickness of radius arms?
Can I take both of the arms off at the same time while servicing them?
Hello great videos..? so I'm changing all my bushes on discovery 2 tomorrow with superpro ones..am I right in thinking all outer metal sleeves can be thrown away...Thanks Dave..edit by myself,yes Dave you are correct since you've done this job now plus near enough all bushes on car since..
lol - thanks Dave
Hi, can you tell me what 4 bushing part number for BA 3671R radius arm my son bought me for my birthday present on 1997 Land Rover discovery SE7 that I lifted 3 inches total last year ..
Did you mean to cut in to the arm at 12:50?
great vid.
Hi. What is sprey brand for use on nuts?
I wouldn’t bugger about under a vehicle on jacks like you’ve done. Looks dodgy with all movement. I use a few wooden blocks made from railway sleepers
I drilled out the rubber, 5mm, rady
Hi Chris, remind us again how to subscribe (financially). I reckon I owe you a few bob. Iv'e been watching for years since you began on You Tube. I live in Australia so it's not likely i'll ever meet you but if I did i'd shake your hand and buy you a beer. Once again Thank You Heaps, Murf (200 Tdi and Disco 4)
funny you say that. A guy came up to me at the LRO show last year and introduced himself from Oz. He recognised me from the LRTV. Great conversation with him. So you never know.
Patreon is here www.patreon.com/bePatron?u=4946999
dude where can you buy these bearmach bushes?
G dizzle bearmach distributors.
Cheers mate just bought a hydraulic press so hoping to follow this video shortly
(y) are you going to bolt it down to the floor?
***** I hadn't just been surrounding it with chairs to stop it crushing everyone
Look like some tank parts lol ....
Rhose poly bushes are shite. Landrover spend a great deal of time and money finding a happy medium between handing performance and flexibility. Just use the right ones! I took new poly bushes off mine as it handled like a wet bath sponge.
Don’t bother put a match to the vehicle and buy another brand
No need for that Bernard and I am a Land Cruiser owner.
@@harveysmith100 I'm very sorry to hear that... Hopefully one day you come to your senses and buy a man's car
@@ooojcbooo So sorry for not living up to your expectation of a man.
You see, I bought a 21 year old 70 series for £1000, I have owned it for 10 years of trouble free motoring.
Next time I will go out and buy a 21 year old Defender for £20'000 and spend the next 10 years putting it right. Then I will be a man I guess?
@@harveysmith100 Cool story, and no it won't...