My biggest comment is to be aware of what you have and it’s purpose… I work with kids in an outdoor program and one of our hikes a few years ago we set our “requirements list” very small and generic because we were only a mile from the road. When we got done we did a pack inspections and critiques. One of the young men had over 6lbs worth of knives and he only used one of them.. ok-it was my kid.
Hi, my name is I. Overthink, and I too suffer from Knife Overpacking Syndrome *will not look up and make eye contact with the room* I have been over packing knives for about 15 years and I am also a habitual multi-sharpening tools carrier.
@@CliffGray cliff, as a carpenter, I can tell you that breaking tools are basically the number one biggest risk of bleeding for construction sites. Breaking knives, or screwdrivers, or drill bits.... And hunting knives are no exception. I would advise incredibly strongly to never, ever, ever carry the replaceable blade knives. A sharpener is very light. Carry a sharpener. And a couple fixed blades you like. Or a folder and fixed blade. If the sharpener fails, use a smooth rock. But a failed replaceable blade.knife can kill you. Imagine an arterial bleed.in your wrist on a foggy or.snowy day when a chopper can't get you. No way. Not fun. No replaceable.blade.knives. never.
This is great. An important show that a knife doesn't need to be made out of premium fancy powder steels or cost as much as an old car to serve you fantastically. A tool is an extension of yourself, and I think our ancestors kept this near and dear. I think we've all been down the rabbit hole of chasing fancy gear or being sold the idea we need to buy something pricey in order to access the outdoors and experience nature fully--I certainly have, and find myself today, after hundreds of hours outdoors, and dozens of animals harvested, reaching for my cheap mora classic or some well-loved folder to do 99% of my knife-related work. Keep it up brother
Thank you for taking the time to make this! Years ago I had coonhound’s and a trap line. Learned very soon that a very expensive, very hard knife, was almost useless for repetitive usage. Much much easier to sharpen often, versus sharpening for what seems like forever
As a knife collector & user I always love hearing stories from other true knife users. Just adds a great perspective and even helps me with making knife decisions. Thanks for the vid.
I usually try to find some cons to go along with the pros.. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxnkYCgssg4ZO858cyBdD1JPEaUJ9Up1C_ but it really is a good knife. The blade sits centered in the handle when closed (photo added). It opens effortlessly. Unlocks and closes easily with one hand. It’s a great size for EDC. I wish this exact knife came in one of the premium steels to satisfy the knife snob in me.. but it’s a great tool at a great price as it is. Would buy again.
I suffer from the " carry enough blades to sink crossing a river syndrome ". I am a knife junkie, a steel snob and the person someone looks at and thinks are you going to war, but I use all my knifes from the 50$ to the 300 bark river's . Great vid.
I’ve cut up many moose, bear, caribou, etc. here in Alaska for many years now. I do 98% of my work with a fillet knife on the meat. I use a Buck skinner my dad got me for my 14th birthday for the hides. I’ve tried so many different knives and have always gravitated to this combo.
This has got to be the best overall knife video that I've yet to see man! Comprehensive and backed by years of in-the-field experience. Stellar job Cliff! I'm 100% with you on the Mora knives by the way. Good bang for the buck... and there's absolutely nothing wrong with modifying a piece of gear to best suit your specific needs. Do it all the time myself man 👍
Are we the only ones that carry a light weight fillet knife??? They make pulling the "straps" so fast and easy. Plus, you don't end up with all the chip cuts that look unprofessional. Keep up the great work Cliff. I work with a single 3.5" custom fixed blade (Bill Reddiex from NZ). Easy to clean and can handle a couple of elk before sharpening due to the amazing steel it was crafted from.
I've never hunted before so finding this video was a nice change compared to other knife review channels that focus more on steel types and bushcrafting. Your experience of skinning animals gives you that tactile handling experience that I don't have, so it was all great advice for me for whenever I can get enough money to go hunting. I can't even remember anyone else ever recommending a bird beak knife, so that's what interests me the most out of this whole video.
All the knife snobs with CPM 3V steel pay attention. Lot easier to sharpen a Buck or Gerber knife in the field. I don’t think you could sharpen some of these new super steels in the field. The voice of experience is spoken by this man.
I carried a buck 110 in Highschool. in the 70s every cop, emt and construction worker carried one. Buck makes a drop point 110, but you have to get it off the website. great video.
I have multiple Mora knives just like that. One per deer. If I dress three deer I use a fresh one for each. I sharpen them later. I like them. I also have a plastic handled boning knife and a small meat hook with me if I'm quartering on the ground. The meat hook really helps me hang onto parts and keep things clean. I have a few of those too. I totally agree with all your advice. Thanks!
As both an outdoorsman and a knife guy, you're correct. Most don't even know how to sharpen though, they just play with them and take pictures for Instagram. One tip is if you can, get a pocket sized diamond stone so you can touch up almost any steel fairly easy.
Very nice to hear your perspective and learn the realties and needs of your profession. I believe the scandi grind on the Mora is designed for wood processing. The hollow grind on the Buck gives a thin easy to sharpen edge while still keeping a thicker spine for durability. Most kitchen or butcher knives have flat grinds that suit food or meat processing very well. Keeping blades honed and/or stropped will minimize the amount of sharpening required. These are in ideal situations which life rarely is. Sometimes you just have to use what is available which is why a modified knife usually becomes one your favourites when you just have to get things done.
In my Guide Pack I carry the Mora, Outdoor Edge, and a Cutco serated knife (no saw needed because that serated one works great). I use a pull threw knife sharpener and it works great for that Mora blade design. The outdoor edge I use for rib rolls and tenderloins and always the gutless method these days in the field. Alot of guys don't like a serated knife but I like it for those deep heavy cuts Qtring and cutting a long side bones and I can use it many many times on multiple animals without any deep sharpening. I did fall for the marketing on a Tyto Knife tho that is a replacement blade system and I think it will be a lot like the Havalon.... I've never liked the fact their blades break.
I also run 2 knives -- an EDC clipped to my pocket and a Mora in the kit. My mora is a different shape blade. It's a little long but it works. I've made a few knives that I keep thinking I'll take with me on trips. But I always come back to the Mora for reasons of weight, grip and sanitation. I love the grip when my hands get all slimy. While dressing & quartering, I can put it back in the scabbard to free my hands. When I get home, I can just run a bottle brush inside the scabbard to clean it off again. Can't do that with leather. And, yes, forget the scandi grind. Whatever blades I have has to also work with my sharpening & field honing systems. I see no need to pay more than $40-50 for a knife that's a working tool. Most of the time, something half that will do the job just as well. And if it breaks or I lose it, oh well. If I forget to take it out of my pocket at the airport, no problem -- just surrender it and get another.
Not much to add accept I learned during my time in a kitchen that: dull knives are the most dangerous knives when working and most people use the wrong size and shape blade for job required. Good stuff Cliff
Lots of truth to that. I think staying on keeping your knife sharp, regardless of the model/type of knife, is probably the biggest knife tip for outdoorsmen. Good stuff. Thanks
I totally agree with what you said about serrations. I don't usually like them, except for cutting rope in a hurry, there's nothing better than a fully serrated blade.
What a great video from an expert in the field. Thank you so much. I carry a Benchmade saddle mountain skinner and always a couple Moras. I love Morakniv for the same reasons you stated, and I think it's super cool that you modify them for your own use.
I find as I get older my knives have gotten lighter and more utilitarian. My daily carry for two years now is a Kabar Dozier and I love it. The blue handle is easy to see every where, it is maintenance free and opens/closes one handed. Which is important when you have 5 calves trying to bully you for a bale of hay.
I love my ka bar dozier! The grip, the weight, the jimping, the neutral handle shape, the blade shape, the hollow grind, the rock solid lock up- its the best cheap knife. Glad to see someone else still likes it!
That comment about knife guys sitting in their basements sharpening knives… 😂. Great video with lots of practical advice. A lot of knife guys probably can’t believe you use those Bucks all the time. But I grew up watching my dad and uncles using knives like Buck 110s and 119s and Schrade skinning knives for everything.
I made another comment on it but I have had the Buck 656 for about a year now and its hands down my favorite knife. Its more of a technical knife with a nylon handle but it has been very effective for starting fires and light bushcraft.
Watched your knife sharpening video and decided that I was going to use my pocket knife for rough cuts on game and a use the other for the meat. Then this came out and that’s what you been doin! One of my fav channels 🙌🏽
Very good information as usual. I’ve also found two knives great for elk and deer: one to skin and deal with the bones (usually my folder), and a fixed blade the other work.
The perspective of someone who doesn't really give a FF about knives...hehehe. Which is COMPLETELY legit. The knives I've used the most were the ones we used on the fishing boat to gut fish. They only had two requirements, completely stainless, and cheap AF so when a fish flipped one overboard, or we broke one cutting crab pot line, it was no big deal. Of course, for anyone with a profound appreciation for a good knife, those knives are completely beneath our notice, no more than toilet paper. So to a knife enthusiast, this is just a video about the cheapest, lightest, easiest to sharpen knives you could find behind the counter at the liquor store. Which again, if you are a hard scrabble hunting guide who doesn't care about knives for their own sake, makes complete sense. Just not a great basis for a youtube video about knives.
I have a few different opinions. However your profession would be my hobbies. And my profession would be construction and mechanics. Great video. I have no arguments.
Cliff, you are a most practical fellow. Like you I use what works and am unapologetic about it. A knife I find super handy and easy to sharpen, in the field or at home is the foldable Outdoor Edge boning knife. It's super light weight, soft, inexpensive, compact and quite nimble around joints or boning. Beautifully made knives are awesome in their own right and I appreciate that. But, many soft metal knives are just better for overall, repeatable work.
I appreciate you taking the time and sharing your thoughts and experiences with us! This was a great video of a real life knife enthusiast who can be honest and practical about knife uses. So many people out there spreading garbage information. Learn how to maintain your knives and have a a variety for different situations and tasks.
I found one in a field when I was a kid. Used it for years. I liked the blade shape, hated the handle. Got a BK15, and never touched the sharpfinger again.
I like seeing what others do thanks for the video. For me (most a whitetail hunter) I carry three knifes in the field. Some type of drop point folder in my pocket or in a sheath on my belt , a sturdy fix blade on my belt if the folder isn’t on there or in my pack, and a havalon. All of them I keep sharpened ready to skin. On a small deer I’ll only use my folder, big deer and hog I use the folder to break off the front legs and make all my outer cuts to the hide, I then swap to the havalon to skin it down and use the fixed blade to break the animal down. This system makes it to where no knife gets dull to the point it needs more than a quick honing.
My God What a common sense non emotional approach to dressing game animals. I dilly dallyed for years looking for excalibur, and some years ago on some good advice started using the traditional meat cutting type knives that people that cut up carcasses for a living use. A good boning knife and a traditional butcher knife and a steel does the job. I recently started using a beaver trappers skinning knife for skinning my deer after trying many gadgets. It's the best, fastest thing I've used so far. Dexter Russell for about 12-14 dollars. And the professionals constantly use a steel hanging from their belt. Good point about the inexpensive edc folder. If you lose it or break it or it's confiscated or whatever, there's no tears to cry. Just shell out another 5 dollars and go on with your business Thanks for the video
Thanks for the note Max! I did the same thing in butchering knifes 5-6 years ago… just took notice what meat cutters were using. Pulling a back strap after that got a whole hell of a lot easier 👍
My grandfather was one of the guides that helped Mr. Russell test the design. Leatherman is EDC but the Russell is on the belt when hunting or fishing.
My current favorite knife for the woods is the Buck 656 Pursuit Pro Large Knife. Its burly enough to hack down aspen saplings for shooting lanes etc and light enough that I forget its on my belt. I like the orange color too in case I drop it for whatever reason. All in all its that one knife I wont go into the woods without.
I'm glad someone shares my view on 'scandi-grinds'. As you say, on 'sabre grinds' where the grind goes much further up the width of the knife, it's much easier to get a micro-bevel, by touching it up on a stone/strop. The way that scandi grinds work though means you have to take material off the whole of the ground area of the knife, both sides. No matter what anyone says, pure physics dictates that stropping a micro-bevel back onto a sabre-grind is going to be a whole lot easier and quicker than having to remove material from the entire grind. But of course, beginners to knife sharpening like to be able to have the security of being able to hold the knife at the 'best angle' for sharpening, which a scandi-grind will give you. Oh, and they're better for feather-stick making because the 'shoulders' of the grind curl the wood pieces better. More than that, sabre grinds are so much better IMHO. That's why knives have been made like that for thousands of years! I bet scandi-grinds were developed just to make knife making cheaper and easer for the manufacturer. Then marketed as a big plus, which is how they caught on, I'd say. It's funny how most folk gravitate to 'sexy' knives. But those who really use them as tools of their trade most often pick the most un-sexy looking knives. But they of course, know what they're talking about!
This is solid advice - particularly the idea of the cheap, small EDC that you can lose and it's only 10 bucks to replace. I spent a lot of money on the advice of UA-cam knife guys till it occurred to me that no part of my life involves cutting 500 manila ropes a day. Went back to some major basics after that realization. Buck 110 slim as an EDC. Got a special run 119 with a straight clip instead of the traditional. I could do everything that I really need with those 2 but I also got a Leatherman that pretty much lives in the truck. I also picked up a 103 Skinner that I haven't used yet but am convinced will be a great skinning blade. I'll continue to collect 110s because they're cool but I'm over the tacticool crap.
The scandi to zero or true scandi (without secondary bevel) is good for soft wood or other soft materials. Even working with hard seasoned wood will make the thin edge roll. So I always put a secondary convex bevel on them by stropping. This is also making it easy to resharpen in the field. The downside is if you want to take it back to scandi to zero you need flat stones and a lot of work, so I don't and keep the secondary bevel. I agree with the ease of cleaning of both knife and sheath. That's important to me for all food prep knives. If I use a folding knife in the field for food prep it's the Svord Peasant knife. A very simple friction folder and very easy to clean. In fact a great folding knife for animal and fish processing. You might wanna have a look at it. My rule is: 'if I can't piss the knife clean, it's not for food prep'.
@@CliffGray Nice. Great knives. Funny how many people overlook the hygiene aspect when it comes to outdoor knives but not when buying kitchen knives. Even when I open the kitchen draw in my friends house who are into bushcraft and survival the knives have all smooth handles, no jimping, etc. Very easy to clean. Than have a look at their small camp knives and they all have jimping, heavily texture handle scales and you basically need a toothbrush to clean them.
My dad gave me a cheap pocket knife when I was about 5, and I've been carrying cheap folders for the better part of 63 years( less often when I lived in town) . My hands now, however, are getting arthritic so I've switched to small fixed blades. I bought some nice LTWRIGHT knives for every day carry a few years ago, but have switched to an inexpensive, forged shorty fixed blade off of Amazon. I'll use the expensive knives on the property, but when I go foraging off property, the cheaper knife comes with me in case it gets confiscated or lost. I've also purchased cheap fixed blades( cheaper than Mora) from Wal-Mart for fishing. Rubber handles and stainless steel for a few bucks work well.
back in 83, when I was still hunting deer and antelope, I bought the Buck Kalinga, nice curved blade, with a good belly and a good point. Skinned many a deer and antelope with it. Still have it. My EDC knife is the Cold Steel Kyoto 2 Neck Knife. easy to deploy and sheath with one hand.
I really enjoy your content. Fact/experience based no fluff I’m a fan of havalons/scalpels to make my fur cuts then leave to rest of the work up to a fixed blade. I focus on grip material (some otherwise perfect knives imo are ruined for field use because the handle choice)and blade material. On your daily carry im right there with ya! Bench made makes excellent blades but many are just to heavy / bulky. I’ve had the same VG 10 spyderco stretch since 2007. It’s my favorite blade hands down and can dual purpose in the field
I like your style! The havalon for first cuts is a good way to go also. I periodically end up there if my pocket knife is less than sharp sharp. Appreciate the comment 👍
My EDC is an Opinel that I carry in a Mini-Mag flashlight sheath on my belt. I use a Havalon when doing paws and ears on bears and wolves. Fur skinning knives? I use a couple .I do have bushcraft knives for camping. This includes a Mora but I like a full tang knife. I started using a birds beak this year and I believe I bought one because you recommended it. Thanks for that and for the video. I learned stuff.
@@CliffGray I like it a lot. It is also handy around the eyes and lips. One of these days I'm going to start skinning a bear by the lips and get that entire nose area skinned. Then when I skin regular, the hide will drop after the eyes are clear. It might save lots of blood on the fur. It might not, also!
I use similar knives in similar ways. My favorite game processor is a Buck Vanguard. And I have a Gerber skinner with a gut ripper that can be fairly useful. I detest the changeable blade knives while hunting. I have one but it never leaves my leather working bench. I usually have 3 knives on me...a small Swiss Army in my pocket, a utility knife ( like a Buck 110) on my belt, and an ultra sharp 3" blade with a pocket clip. They all have separate uses. I'm not afraid to abuse the Buck a bit because I know I can bring that edge back. The sharp knives, with a pocket clip, handle more delicate tasks. The Swiss Army is for opening chew cans, clipping broken finger nails, small scissor needs, tweezers, toothpick, etc. You won't catch me with any less than 2 at any time, unless I'm sleeping. If I am elk hunting, I usually carry an antler handled bowie. I have never used that knife to process game. It goes along for added protection. Because it was built from a sawmill blade, it is fairly light. While hunting in the mountains, I'll throw a bushcraft knife (1095 steel) and a fire starter in my saddle bags. I'll also have a hatchet in the saddle bags. I've tried the little saws and even a cable saw for pelvis cutting. I've found that a good knife and a pair of pliers will get you through most deer pelvises. I very seldom will split one on an elk.
When you say a pair of pliers on the pelvis, are you wedging those into the seam and opening the pelvis that way? Just curious how you are using that setup.
Very educational video! I carry a utility razor knife in my watch pocket daily. I'm not well educated with knife sharpening so I find it MUCH easier to just slap a new blade in. I carry extra packs in my trucks, tool boxes and at home. I work in construction and I've often wondered about fixed blades. Good to know they wouldn't be much use for my needs.
I have a full set of Dexter butcher knives. My dad has a full set of JW Hinkle butcher knives from the early 70s. We both end up using regular fillet knives for most of our butchering.
I also like to "stay ahead" with sharpening. The D2 knife I use every day gets cleaned and touched up every night. The equipment has a permanent spot on my desk top, making it very convenient. Most of the time it only takes 20 or 30 passes with 1500 grit to keep it sharp enough for farm use.
I just picked up a Benchmade Hidden Canyon Hunter and love it. It's a challenge to sharpen (S90v) when needed (diamond and no stroping) so I may wind up getting the s30v version... but it's shape size and weight are amazing.
I have the s90v version as well, and found it worked great on my elk this year. For a challenge to the steel, I actually used it on the hide and the bone as well as the meat (instead of splitting that task between two knives). It actually held a great edge through everything. Relatively light as well. But to be fair, I never would have paid the steep price for the knife on my own. But since it was a gift from my wife and kids…ok. :)
Algorithm pushed this into my feed. Liked seeing the crossdraw sheath for the Buck 110. I have a 110 I got from work as a 10 year gift. Nice knife... I just found it very slick to hold onto when my hands were wet with condensation from handling cold product at work...and got tired of keeping corrosion off the brass bolsters. Ended up swapping to a Kizer Begleiter XL button lock. Also works well with that sheath. I can draw and deploy the blade very easy with a little rotation in the fingers to actuate the button as I draw... with the blade fully deployed before my arm reaches full extension. When you crouch or sit regularly as part of your job those crossdraw sheaths being in-line with your belt very much keep them out of the way.
I’ve carried a knife for about 65 years and have never had an expensive one, mostly slip joints but plenty of lock knives and fixed blades till they made them illegal for edc (uk). Now I carry a 3” blade slipjoint lambfoot all the time. My pet hates; serrations and pocket clips, serrations because they’re only good for cutting rope (go below and get the breadknife !) pocket clips because they impede access to pockets and that’s where useful stuff lives,And I have lost two quite decent knives in brambles because a bramble slid between my jeans and the clip and flipped the knife into a prickley grave. I’ve never lost one out of the bottom of a pocket.
Have you ever tried the old 2 blade folding hunters on a belt pouch for big game? I particularly like the old Case XX but you can also find the Old Timers among others. I usually just carry a trapper pattern for edc and everything up to and including deer.
Thanks for the tips Cliff. I have a MT elk and mule deer hunt planned for October. I'm in the east and mostly hunt whitetails. Your videos have saved me a ton of money and time on prep! Much appreciated 👍!
i am a knife snob of sorts because i have had such bad luck with the inexpensive knives out there. for my daily carry in my pocket knife a simple case folder works great (i only have the carbon steel bladed). hunting knives i like a thin blade with a drop point. i generally only carry one knife in the field and i will touch the blade with a stone every so often to keep it serviceable
Great video and very useful. I’m not a hunter, but am at least trying to get out on trails more. I’ve carried pocket knives since I was eight - a Camillus four blade camp knife and wore it out and broke one of the pins. Moved up to lock Camillus lock blades back in the 70s when I could afford them. Lost two and still have one I practically destroyed playing Army. Went on to Spydercos, the official knife of the Border Patrol in the 90s. Then came Cold Steel until I found they were hard to sharpen, Emerson’s with chisel grinds, and finally Benchmade. There were some Gerbers, Bucks, and Kershaws in the middle. I admit I bought many of the blades based on the cool factor, but have found the Benchmades are a good balance of good edge hold and ease of sharpening. I also pay attention to the lock as I’ve had a folder with a good reputation fold up on me once. Then there are mymfixed blades i have acquired with the same lack of logic…. The Gerber BMF was useful for chopping wood.
Great video sir. I think you make some great points and I personally agree that serrated part edges are just a pain. Having said that, I'm a big fan of carrying a fine toothed hand saw for bones and joints, and I frequently just cut into the meat. I had an interesting conversation with a professional hunter who questioned my approach as he couldn't sell meat the way I cut it. I explained that I'm not after points for neatness at meat is meat when it's cooked. But again I don't make a living out of my butchering skills (or lack thereof). I used to scuba dive a lot and your video reminded me of a hard lesson I learnt. We were out one dive during less than ideal weather and in the swell I got tangled around my arms in monofilament. There was no way I could get to the knife on my calf, but thankfully I had a small Spyderco stuffed in the sleeve of my wetsuit. It was a tiny little backup, but it forever taught me, the best knife in the world is the one you have when you need one 😂
Buck made a 110 lightweight kickback with nylon handle. I carry one in my pocket when hunting. In my pack I have 2 custom fixed blades, a 3” caping and boning knife and a 4.5” semi skinner and a sharpening kit.
I'm 52. I've been carrying the same Leatherman since I was 19. Paid $20 for it brand new. I've been through three sheathes. Field dressed a few deer with it and a LOT of trout with it. Not great for field dressing deer. Too many nooks and crannies and the blade doesn't lock. I'm not sure there's ever been a day in my life that I haven't used it. My hunting knife is an old Gerber Exchange blade. Came with a skinning/gut hook, saw, and utility blade. Sister got if for me for xmas when I was 16. The steel is good. Can easily dress a deer. Maybe 1/4 an Elk with it. I tried to use the gut hook - it's just not big enough. Skinning and breaking down a Deer in the shop I've only used a 6" Victorinox curved boning blade. I don't own any knives with a serrated blade. A steel is the ticket for keeping the edge shaped and sharp. So there you have it. Three knives. I only carry two. If I could only have one it would be the Victorinox with a sheath. It's deadly sharp and stays sharp. I've done 6 deer with it this year and it's still sharp AF. The main problem I have with it is knocking if off the table and landing EDGE first on the concrete floor. I don't break the pelvic bone. If it's not to be mounted I'll try and run the blade up the sternum. Big bucks you just won't be able to do this, so you need to reach up in there. Bone and hide dull the knife so a steel (even a cheap little one is better than none) I debone everything so I'm all over the ball joints. I'm just careful with it because getting rough with that is also a good time to skip a blade into your hand or something. Great Video as always. Take care.
If you like the Buck 113 skinner, the Buck 835 Selkirk small folder is a cheaper, more available, lighter option. I thought the folder would get gummed up with fat and wouldn't close. But I did 2 wt's back to back and the knife folded up easy. Clean it by pouring some boiling water on it; poof! Clean, sterile, no leather sheath all gooped with 20 years of deer tissue. I love your vids, knowlege and opinions Cliff! Keep them coming. I'm learning real stuff that I can put to use hunting and backpacking. Thanks.
I agree with your take on Mora. Scandi is a delicate edge and I dread to fix a nick and keep it true scandi. Now I reserve true scandi for woodwork/ delicate work or I will put on a secondary bevel. Also, scandi grind with thicker blade is terrible at food prep and meat processing.
If you don't like the serrations on the rat3 get an Esee 3 in s35vn! Same profile minus the serrations and in nice stainless, they also come with a decent sheath with belt clip
Another solid video, appreciate it man! Bought a Buck 110, used it right out of the box to skin and quater a mule deer buck. Thing never got dull once. Appreciate the info and explanations of some other knives, useful information as always from you.
I WAS a diehard Vanguard Buck knife guy for field dressing. I got an outdoor edge replaceable blade knife for an article submission to Huntin’ Fool magazine and thought it was a gimmick and stuck it in my knife box for years. Last season I took it on my son’s deer hunt and it quartered his deer like it was a freakin’ light saber. The Buck Knife will now reside in that knife box for a long time.
Like your take on, the right knife for what your doing. Hit a bone, dull no good. ( Gerber )As a hunter, fishermen , hiker, camper and working at the pig harvesting plant, real education I the use of a fillay knife , and special use knives. Agree on bucks , use a baby buck to debone a turkey for Thanksgiving, (yes there's a video if you're board. !!) Makes a turkey roll.you pack it with sausage herbs stuffing whatever cooks in 1 he or 30 min empty. Have harvested road killed deer, through experience you use the SHARP knife that works. Agree tooo many basement knife critics, that never hit a bone, cut a hide, made a smelly mistake, cut out a backstrap, or popped out a hip joint by cutting the tendons. Or was carving a stick and found out it was oak.😂😂😂, Why buck is still around. Affordable , and will make you get a lansky sharpener. Most folks don't realize, the steel rod is for getting the fat off the blade edge, not really sharpening. So it keeps cutting. Looked at a replace able blade, laughed, would break it. Carry a junker, like you, for many reasons, live in a major city. Traveled around, But heavy is heavy, got cool looking kirshaw tooo heavy put it up , yah brick in pocket, feel that. Have yet to deal with a scandy grind, still need to get the burr off it ,just thinkin . Can't shave hair otherwise. For all the folks that made it this far. Personally, Use a lansky sharpening system (red box with templet guide ) with a polishing stone , 30 weight motor oil, and a 25 degree edge. Can fix blade nicks, even on a hospital case. Regrind bevels and get rid of that burr, to shave hair. And make friends. to all the folks that made it this far. Can make a razor blade in 15 min. Read the instructions, a lot easier. Recommend it , wasted 10 yrs of my life trying to get it right by eye. Life is toooo short to waste it sharpening knives. Get out there, so you can tell, the story of your travels, to your kids.
I used one of those little gerber saws to cut through the pelvic bone on an elk this past November because I didn't have anything else on hand at the time. While I was able to get the job done, my shoulder was sore for a couple days afterward 😬
@Cliff Gray Oh man, absolutely. If it wasn't getting dark I would have made the walk back to the truck to get the hatchet. Honestly, after going through that once, I might just walk back to the truck in the dark anyway.
As a butcher i keep a victorinox 6" straight stiff in my vehicle for slaughtering whatever, and a fine stone for maintenance. I use a victorinox 6" straight flex for breaking down and cutting, and a steel for maintenance. Although for someone who can't get/keep an edge i wouldnt recommend the flex and to just stick with the straight stiff across the board. I'm also not a fan of serrations when i can have a good clean edge instead. Currently for taxidermy work i just use a scalpel. I thought about trying one of those havalon units, but cost of their specialty replacement blades is much higher and over time adds up a lot.
I was hoping this video would be like this. I am not a hunter but I know when experienced folks are offering information. I hope inexperienced knife guys will take your advice. Well presented and I am sure it is sound advice. I have carried knives for years and have accumulated a few hundred of them. Primarily old American pocket folders. They are the finest kind. All the best.
Good deal lots of good common sense information there. I agree with it all especially about serrated edges I read one time were this guy said serrated edges were for people who did not know how to use a knife. I completely agree with that I am a knife nut and do not and will not own a serrated knife. Darren
I’ve skinned and quartered countless deer and elk. I’ve come to appreciate the Havalon because it’s always sharp and one blade will get me through an entire animal. Get back to camp and replace the blade and ready to go again.
Sensible, practical advice. I've never really seen the point of a Scandi grind - bushcrafters seem fond of demonstrating how a Scandi can do smaller axe-like tasks, but why not just carry an axe?
The Mora you used is the bic lighter of the knife world. I would suggest if someone wants a knife that is ideal for both bid game hunting and bushcraft in the boreal forest get a Brisa trapper 95 in 01 tool steel or Elmax. I have skinned , quartered and placed into game bags moose and elk with this one knife and then sharpened it afterwards. These are relatively expensive Finnish knives with a 95 millimeter blade from a part of the world that is full of moose hunters.
I’m not a knife guy by any means but so far the crkt folts minimalist with the black blade has been an amazing edc lightweight fixed blade…belly isn’t too dramatic, and it’s light enough on my belt that I forget I’m wearing it until I need it. Of course I love my havalon but I often just use my minimalist for field dressing…the job just seems to go quicker and cleaner for me, not to mention I’ve nicked myself a couple times with the havalon while cutting things free in the chest cavity, something I’ve never done with my minimalist. The blade on the minimalist is decent for skinning but not ideal and it holds edge well considering how easy it is to sharpen…but they were cheap enough to grab a few spares when I bought mine, I think they’ve gone up a little bit since then but still quite reasonable.
I've found the Mora companion Carbon with the slightly thinner blade stock, to be even better suited than the more common stainless model. I just put a patina on it and keep it oiled.
One instance of a manual open, tip up carry knife opening slightly in my pocket while working was enough for me. Stuck my thumb between the blade and frame reaching for it and had a regular rodeo digging out my first aid stuff and getting it taped up with one hand.
I’m telling ya…try a small little stubby tanto shaped flipper as an EDC!! I just happened to get one (a really rare model CRKT) from some flea market guy and its shape has come in handy SO many times! You have to actually use it a while to start understanding how it’s better than a regular knife shape, but trust me, it really is.
I got my buck 110 about 4 years ago because, you can open it a couple of inches and let go and it snaps closed, good for safety, frame locks don't do that. And it's held together with rivets not screws so It can survive a drop. Experience taught me if it's got a pocket clip you're going to lose it. If it's in your back pocket you'll find it on the car seat and if it's in your front pocket then you'll find it where you move the couch🤔 mine's got a case on the Belt😁 oh yeah made in USA tested by time👍
For the Mora, I have to say I think it would be cool to do a micro bevel on it, but leave some scandi grind at the bottom for woodworking, so it could be a hybrid knife
Just to comment about the Mora and the honeing rod. I bought a small short lansky triangular ceramic honing block / rod. Ps it is has 3 flat sides to it, and is about 3 inches long. It is fantastic for touching up any blade profile including scandi's , in the field.
My biggest comment is to be aware of what you have and it’s purpose… I work with kids in an outdoor program and one of our hikes a few years ago we set our “requirements list” very small and generic because we were only a mile from the road. When we got done we did a pack inspections and critiques. One of the young men had over 6lbs worth of knives and he only used one of them.. ok-it was my kid.
That’s a great tip!
This comment also put a big grin on my face 😆haha!
Hi, my name is I. Overthink, and I too suffer from Knife Overpacking Syndrome *will not look up and make eye contact with the room* I have been over packing knives for about 15 years and I am also a habitual multi-sharpening tools carrier.
Dude that made me laugh out loud. Hahahahha
@@j.p.5572 HA!
Cool. Make your kid carry your fav knives. Makes him feel important too!
I love the fact that you ACTUALLY use your tools as intended and can speak from experience.
Subbed
im a knife maker and watched this to help inform my future designs
You are one of the UA-camrs I trust most to give reliable information Cliff. Thank you for everything you do.
Hey Lucas! Really appreciate your support. Thanks
@@CliffGray cliff, as a carpenter, I can tell you that breaking tools are basically the number one biggest risk of bleeding for construction sites. Breaking knives, or screwdrivers, or drill bits.... And hunting knives are no exception. I would advise incredibly strongly to never, ever, ever carry the replaceable blade knives. A sharpener is very light. Carry a sharpener. And a couple fixed blades you like. Or a folder and fixed blade. If the sharpener fails, use a smooth rock. But a failed replaceable blade.knife can kill you. Imagine an arterial bleed.in your wrist on a foggy or.snowy day when a chopper can't get you. No way. Not fun. No replaceable.blade.knives. never.
I’ve watched a gazillion knife videos in the last few months and this is the best of them all.
nice! thanks
This is great. An important show that a knife doesn't need to be made out of premium fancy powder steels or cost as much as an old car to serve you fantastically.
A tool is an extension of yourself, and I think our ancestors kept this near and dear.
I think we've all been down the rabbit hole of chasing fancy gear or being sold the idea we need to buy something pricey in order to access the outdoors and experience nature fully--I certainly have, and find myself today, after hundreds of hours outdoors, and dozens of animals harvested, reaching for my cheap mora classic or some well-loved folder to do 99% of my knife-related work.
Keep it up brother
Very true 👍 thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to make this! Years ago I had coonhound’s and a trap line. Learned very soon that a very expensive, very hard knife, was almost useless for repetitive usage. Much much easier to sharpen often, versus sharpening for what seems like forever
WATCHED AGAIN IN APRIL OF 2023 ! YEAH. ITS THAT GOOD ! VERY INFORMATIVE & ENTERTAINING !
BIG REGARDS FROM ARIZONA!
hahaha thanks Bruce!
As a knife collector & user I always love hearing stories from other true knife users. Just adds a great perspective and even helps me with making knife decisions. Thanks for the vid.
👍
Great video. No ego or knife snobbery. Just talking about what works and doesn't work for you.
Thanks Matt!
Yeah agree no elitist metallurgist snobbery here just facts
I usually try to find some cons to go along with the pros.. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxnkYCgssg4ZO858cyBdD1JPEaUJ9Up1C_ but it really is a good knife. The blade sits centered in the handle when closed (photo added). It opens effortlessly. Unlocks and closes easily with one hand. It’s a great size for EDC. I wish this exact knife came in one of the premium steels to satisfy the knife snob in me.. but it’s a great tool at a great price as it is. Would buy again.
I like to strop the hell out of a mora with a coarse grit compound and convex it. It gets scary sharp.
I suffer from the " carry enough blades to sink crossing a river syndrome ". I am a knife junkie, a steel snob and the person someone looks at and thinks are you going to war, but I use all my knifes from the 50$ to the 300 bark river's . Great vid.
hahaha, I hear ya. I have a pile of them, too. Thanks for watching!
Same here lol. Used to be watches but now it’s knifes
I’ve cut up many moose, bear, caribou, etc. here in Alaska for many years now.
I do 98% of my work with a fillet knife on the meat. I use a Buck skinner my dad got me for my 14th birthday for the hides. I’ve tried so many different knives and have always gravitated to this combo.
Sounds like a good setup! Sounds like you put it to some good work 👍
This has got to be the best overall knife video that I've yet to see man! Comprehensive and backed by years of in-the-field experience. Stellar job Cliff! I'm 100% with you on the Mora knives by the way. Good bang for the buck... and there's absolutely nothing wrong with modifying a piece of gear to best suit your specific needs. Do it all the time myself man 👍
Thanks man!
😎 good to see intenseangler making rounds!🍻
✌️🤟🤙
@@CliffGray Anytime man... anytime! 👍
@@luckybassturd7260 Good seeing you here as well man! ✌Cliff's definitely got an awesome channel here brother! 👍
Are we the only ones that carry a light weight fillet knife??? They make pulling the "straps" so fast and easy. Plus, you don't end up with all the chip cuts that look unprofessional. Keep up the great work Cliff. I work with a single 3.5" custom fixed blade (Bill Reddiex from NZ). Easy to clean and can handle a couple of elk before sharpening due to the amazing steel it was crafted from.
I agree on the fillet knife. They make it much easier/smoother. I'll checkout the Reddlex knives.
I've never hunted before so finding this video was a nice change compared to other knife review channels that focus more on steel types and bushcrafting. Your experience of skinning animals gives you that tactile handling experience that I don't have, so it was all great advice for me for whenever I can get enough money to go hunting. I can't even remember anyone else ever recommending a bird beak knife, so that's what interests me the most out of this whole video.
Thanks for the positive feedback! Glad it was helpful.
All the knife snobs with CPM 3V steel pay attention. Lot easier to sharpen a Buck or Gerber knife in the field. I don’t think you could sharpen some of these new super steels in the field. The voice of experience is spoken by this man.
I do enjoy sharpening knives in my basement and playing with my dinghy.
Good . How old are you?
I felt personally attacked when he said that.
Solid advice! The best knife is the knife you have. Always keep it sharp. Many an animal gutted and skinned with a stockman pocket knife.
Yep, for sure 👍👊
I carried a buck 110 in Highschool. in the 70s every cop, emt and construction worker carried one. Buck makes a drop point 110, but you have to get it off the website. great video.
thanks Eric! I'll checkout the drop point
I have multiple Mora knives just like that. One per deer. If I dress three deer I use a fresh one for each. I sharpen them later. I like them. I also have a plastic handled boning knife and a small meat hook with me if I'm quartering on the ground. The meat hook really helps me hang onto parts and keep things clean. I have a few of those too. I totally agree with all your advice. Thanks!
👍 thanks James
As both an outdoorsman and a knife guy, you're correct. Most don't even know how to sharpen though, they just play with them and take pictures for Instagram. One tip is if you can, get a pocket sized diamond stone so you can touch up almost any steel fairly easy.
Very nice to hear your perspective and learn the realties and needs of your profession. I believe the scandi grind on the Mora is designed for wood processing. The hollow grind on the Buck gives a thin easy to sharpen edge while still keeping a thicker spine for durability. Most kitchen or butcher knives have flat grinds that suit food or meat processing very well. Keeping blades honed and/or stropped will minimize the amount of sharpening required. These are in ideal situations which life rarely is. Sometimes you just have to use what is available which is why a modified knife usually becomes one your favourites when you just have to get things done.
👍
In my Guide Pack I carry the Mora, Outdoor Edge, and a Cutco serated knife (no saw needed because that serated one works great).
I use a pull threw knife sharpener and it works great for that Mora blade design. The outdoor edge I use for rib rolls and tenderloins and always the gutless method these days in the field. Alot of guys don't like a serated knife but I like it for those deep heavy cuts Qtring and cutting a long side bones and I can use it many many times on multiple animals without any deep sharpening.
I did fall for the marketing on a Tyto Knife tho that is a replacement blade system and I think it will be a lot like the Havalon.... I've never liked the fact their blades break.
I also run 2 knives -- an EDC clipped to my pocket and a Mora in the kit. My mora is a different shape blade. It's a little long but it works. I've made a few knives that I keep thinking I'll take with me on trips. But I always come back to the Mora for reasons of weight, grip and sanitation. I love the grip when my hands get all slimy. While dressing & quartering, I can put it back in the scabbard to free my hands. When I get home, I can just run a bottle brush inside the scabbard to clean it off again. Can't do that with leather. And, yes, forget the scandi grind. Whatever blades I have has to also work with my sharpening & field honing systems. I see no need to pay more than $40-50 for a knife that's a working tool. Most of the time, something half that will do the job just as well. And if it breaks or I lose it, oh well. If I forget to take it out of my pocket at the airport, no problem -- just surrender it and get another.
Not much to add accept I learned during my time in a kitchen that: dull knives are the most dangerous knives when working and most people use the wrong size and shape blade for job required. Good stuff Cliff
Lots of truth to that. I think staying on keeping your knife sharp, regardless of the model/type of knife, is probably the biggest knife tip for outdoorsmen. Good stuff. Thanks
I totally agree with what you said about serrations. I don't usually like them, except for cutting rope in a hurry, there's nothing better than a fully serrated blade.
Yep, that's why I note many LEOs, fire fighters & EMTs carrying serrated knives.
What a great video from an expert in the field. Thank you so much. I carry a Benchmade saddle mountain skinner and always a couple Moras. I love Morakniv for the same reasons you stated, and I think it's super cool that you modify them for your own use.
I find as I get older my knives have gotten lighter and more utilitarian. My daily carry for two years now is a Kabar Dozier and I love it. The blue handle is easy to see every where, it is maintenance free and opens/closes one handed. Which is important when you have 5 calves trying to bully you for a bale of hay.
I love my ka bar dozier! The grip, the weight, the jimping, the neutral handle shape, the blade shape, the hollow grind, the rock solid lock up- its the best cheap knife. Glad to see someone else still likes it!
Scandi-vex is a practical solution for keeping a scandi sharp in the field
That comment about knife guys sitting in their basements sharpening knives… 😂. Great video with lots of practical advice. A lot of knife guys probably can’t believe you use those Bucks all the time. But I grew up watching my dad and uncles using knives like Buck 110s and 119s and Schrade skinning knives for everything.
Thanks Mike! Bucks were always around when I was a kid, too.
Same. Anyone who craps on buck, Schrader, Uncle Henry etc have no idea why they do to begin with.
I made another comment on it but I have had the Buck 656 for about a year now and its hands down my favorite knife. Its more of a technical knife with a nylon handle but it has been very effective for starting fires and light bushcraft.
@@ColoradoStreaming ill check it out. thanks
Watched your knife sharpening video and decided that I was going to use my pocket knife for rough cuts on game and a use the other for the meat. Then this came out and that’s what you been doin! One of my fav channels 🙌🏽
awesome!
Very good information as usual. I’ve also found two knives great for elk and deer: one to skin and deal with the bones (usually my folder), and a fixed blade the other work.
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The perspective of someone who doesn't really give a FF about knives...hehehe. Which is COMPLETELY legit. The knives I've used the most were the ones we used on the fishing boat to gut fish. They only had two requirements, completely stainless, and cheap AF so when a fish flipped one overboard, or we broke one cutting crab pot line, it was no big deal. Of course, for anyone with a profound appreciation for a good knife, those knives are completely beneath our notice, no more than toilet paper. So to a knife enthusiast, this is just a video about the cheapest, lightest, easiest to sharpen knives you could find behind the counter at the liquor store. Which again, if you are a hard scrabble hunting guide who doesn't care about knives for their own sake, makes complete sense. Just not a great basis for a youtube video about knives.
I have a few different opinions. However your profession would be my hobbies. And my profession would be construction and mechanics. Great video. I have no arguments.
Cliff, you are a most practical fellow. Like you I use what works and am unapologetic about it. A knife I find super handy and easy to sharpen, in the field or at home is the foldable Outdoor Edge boning knife. It's super light weight, soft, inexpensive, compact and quite nimble around joints or boning. Beautifully made knives are awesome in their own right and I appreciate that. But, many soft metal knives are just better for overall, repeatable work.
agreed - I'll checkout that knife. thanks for the suggestion
Completely agree in the butchering kit. Having a skinning, boning, and breaking knife saves me SO much time when processing my deer.
for sure!
I appreciate you taking the time and sharing your thoughts and experiences with us! This was a great video of a real life knife enthusiast who can be honest and practical about knife uses. So many people out there spreading garbage information. Learn how to maintain your knives and have a a variety for different situations and tasks.
I carry 2 Schrade Old Timer Sharpfingers but I'm also not an outfitter! I agree with you on the Mora. I carry one when I'm just hiking or camping.
I’ve had several folks mention those knives. I’ll have to check them out👍
I found one in a field when I was a kid. Used it for years.
I liked the blade shape, hated the handle.
Got a BK15, and never touched the sharpfinger again.
I like seeing what others do thanks for the video. For me (most a whitetail hunter) I carry three knifes in the field. Some type of drop point folder in my pocket or in a sheath on my belt , a sturdy fix blade on my belt if the folder isn’t on there or in my pack, and a havalon. All of them I keep sharpened ready to skin. On a small deer I’ll only use my folder, big deer and hog I use the folder to break off the front legs and make all my outer cuts to the hide, I then swap to the havalon to skin it down and use the fixed blade to break the animal down. This system makes it to where no knife gets dull to the point it needs more than a quick honing.
My God
What a common sense non
emotional approach to dressing
game animals. I dilly dallyed
for years looking for excalibur,
and some years ago on some
good advice started using the
traditional meat cutting type
knives that people that cut up
carcasses for a living use.
A good boning knife and a
traditional butcher knife and a
steel does the job. I recently
started using a beaver trappers
skinning knife for skinning my
deer after trying many gadgets.
It's the best, fastest thing I've
used so far. Dexter Russell for
about 12-14 dollars.
And the professionals constantly
use a steel hanging from their belt.
Good point about the inexpensive
edc folder. If you lose it or break it
or it's confiscated or whatever, there's no tears to cry. Just shell
out another 5 dollars and go on
with your business
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the note Max! I did the same thing in butchering knifes 5-6 years ago… just took notice what meat cutters were using. Pulling a back strap after that got a whole hell of a lot easier 👍
The Yukon belt knife is based off of the Grohmann D.H. Russell #1 Canadian belt knife.
My grandfather was one of the guides that helped Mr. Russell test the design. Leatherman is EDC but the Russell is on the belt when hunting or fishing.
My current favorite knife for the woods is the Buck 656 Pursuit Pro Large Knife. Its burly enough to hack down aspen saplings for shooting lanes etc and light enough that I forget its on my belt. I like the orange color too in case I drop it for whatever reason. All in all its that one knife I wont go into the woods without.
I'm glad someone shares my view on 'scandi-grinds'. As you say, on 'sabre grinds' where the grind goes much further up the width of the knife, it's much easier to get a micro-bevel, by touching it up on a stone/strop. The way that scandi grinds work though means you have to take material off the whole of the ground area of the knife, both sides. No matter what anyone says, pure physics dictates that stropping a micro-bevel back onto a sabre-grind is going to be a whole lot easier and quicker than having to remove material from the entire grind. But of course, beginners to knife sharpening like to be able to have the security of being able to hold the knife at the 'best angle' for sharpening, which a scandi-grind will give you. Oh, and they're better for feather-stick making because the 'shoulders' of the grind curl the wood pieces better. More than that, sabre grinds are so much better IMHO. That's why knives have been made like that for thousands of years! I bet scandi-grinds were developed just to make knife making cheaper and easer for the manufacturer. Then marketed as a big plus, which is how they caught on, I'd say.
It's funny how most folk gravitate to 'sexy' knives. But those who really use them as tools of their trade most often pick the most un-sexy looking knives. But they of course, know what they're talking about!
👍 Always valuable to hear the views of folks with tons of real experience. Thank you for your insights. You have made me rethink the Buck 113.
This is solid advice - particularly the idea of the cheap, small EDC that you can lose and it's only 10 bucks to replace. I spent a lot of money on the advice of UA-cam knife guys till it occurred to me that no part of my life involves cutting 500 manila ropes a day. Went back to some major basics after that realization. Buck 110 slim as an EDC. Got a special run 119 with a straight clip instead of the traditional. I could do everything that I really need with those 2 but I also got a Leatherman that pretty much lives in the truck. I also picked up a 103 Skinner that I haven't used yet but am convinced will be a great skinning blade. I'll continue to collect 110s because they're cool but I'm over the tacticool crap.
I hear ya. And yes, 110s are pretty cool!
The scandi to zero or true scandi (without secondary bevel) is good for soft wood or other soft materials. Even working with hard seasoned wood will make the thin edge roll. So I always put a secondary convex bevel on them by stropping. This is also making it easy to resharpen in the field. The downside is if you want to take it back to scandi to zero you need flat stones and a lot of work, so I don't and keep the secondary bevel. I agree with the ease of cleaning of both knife and sheath. That's important to me for all food prep knives. If I use a folding knife in the field for food prep it's the Svord Peasant knife. A very simple friction folder and very easy to clean.
In fact a great folding knife for animal and fish processing. You might wanna have a look at it.
My rule is: 'if I can't piss the knife clean, it's not for food prep'.
agreed on the hygiene component. overlooked a lot of the time. I do have a peasant knife. I keep it in one of my trucks. handy knife.
@@CliffGray Nice. Great knives. Funny how many people overlook the hygiene aspect when it comes to outdoor knives but not when buying kitchen knives. Even when I open the kitchen draw in my friends house who are into bushcraft and survival the knives have all smooth handles, no jimping, etc. Very easy to clean. Than have a look at their small camp knives and they all have jimping, heavily texture handle scales and you basically need a toothbrush to clean them.
My dad gave me a cheap pocket knife when I was about 5, and I've been carrying cheap folders for the better part of 63 years( less often when I lived in town) . My hands now, however, are getting arthritic so I've switched to small fixed blades. I bought some nice LTWRIGHT knives for every day carry a few years ago, but have switched to an inexpensive, forged shorty fixed blade off of Amazon. I'll use the expensive knives on the property, but when I go foraging off property, the cheaper knife comes with me in case it gets confiscated or lost. I've also purchased cheap fixed blades( cheaper than Mora) from Wal-Mart for fishing. Rubber handles and stainless steel for a few bucks work well.
back in 83, when I was still hunting deer and antelope, I bought the Buck Kalinga, nice curved blade, with a good belly and a good point. Skinned many a deer and antelope with it. Still have it. My EDC knife is the Cold Steel Kyoto 2 Neck Knife. easy to deploy and sheath with one hand.
Sounds like a great setup James 👍 I’ll checkout that Kalinga
Great video, my EDC is a Leatherman K2 free and I run a Helle hunting blade. The Helle keeps a crazy edge for a long time.
I really enjoy your content. Fact/experience based no fluff
I’m a fan of havalons/scalpels to make my fur cuts then leave to rest of the work up to a fixed blade. I focus on grip material (some otherwise perfect knives imo are ruined for field use because the handle choice)and blade material.
On your daily carry im right there with ya! Bench made makes excellent blades but many are just to heavy / bulky. I’ve had the same VG 10 spyderco stretch since 2007. It’s my favorite blade hands down and can dual purpose in the field
I like your style! The havalon for first cuts is a good way to go also. I periodically end up there if my pocket knife is less than sharp sharp. Appreciate the comment 👍
My EDC is an Opinel that I carry in a Mini-Mag flashlight sheath on my belt. I use a Havalon when doing paws and ears on bears and wolves. Fur skinning knives? I use a couple .I do have bushcraft knives for camping. This includes a Mora but I like a full tang knife. I started using a birds beak this year and I believe I bought one because you recommended it. Thanks for that and for the video. I learned stuff.
Thanks man! Do you find yourself using the bird beak on paws much? That’s my go to for the final knuckle on turning lion and bear paws
@@CliffGray I like it a lot. It is also handy around the eyes and lips. One of these days I'm going to start skinning a bear by the lips and get that entire nose area skinned. Then when I skin regular, the hide will drop after the eyes are clear. It might save lots of blood on the fur. It might not, also!
@@mushercdn ah interesting. that might be a great way to do it!
I use similar knives in similar ways. My favorite game processor is a Buck Vanguard. And I have a Gerber skinner with a gut ripper that can be fairly useful.
I detest the changeable blade knives while hunting. I have one but it never leaves my leather working bench.
I usually have 3 knives on me...a small Swiss Army in my pocket, a utility knife ( like a Buck 110) on my belt, and an ultra sharp 3" blade with a pocket clip.
They all have separate uses. I'm not afraid to abuse the Buck a bit because I know I can bring that edge back. The sharp knives, with a pocket clip, handle more delicate tasks. The Swiss Army is for opening chew cans, clipping broken finger nails, small scissor needs, tweezers, toothpick, etc.
You won't catch me with any less than 2 at any time, unless I'm sleeping.
If I am elk hunting, I usually carry an antler handled bowie. I have never used that knife to process game. It goes along for added protection. Because it was built from a sawmill blade, it is fairly light.
While hunting in the mountains, I'll throw a bushcraft knife (1095 steel) and a fire starter in my saddle bags. I'll also have a hatchet in the saddle bags.
I've tried the little saws and even a cable saw for pelvis cutting. I've found that a good knife and a pair of pliers will get you through most deer pelvises. I very seldom will split one on an elk.
When you say a pair of pliers on the pelvis, are you wedging those into the seam and opening the pelvis that way? Just curious how you are using that setup.
Very educational video! I carry a utility razor knife in my watch pocket daily. I'm not well educated with knife sharpening so I find it MUCH easier to just slap a new blade in. I carry extra packs in my trucks, tool boxes and at home. I work in construction and I've often wondered about fixed blades. Good to know they wouldn't be much use for my needs.
Excellent video. I also make a secondary bevel on scandi grinds for the same reason.
Thanks Matt!
I have a full set of Dexter butcher knives. My dad has a full set of JW Hinkle butcher knives from the early 70s. We both end up using regular fillet knives for most of our butchering.
Yeah, I use a fillet knife a ton when butchering. Good stuff 👍
I also like to "stay ahead" with sharpening. The D2 knife I use every day gets cleaned and touched up every night. The equipment has a permanent spot on my desk top, making it very convenient. Most of the time it only takes 20 or 30 passes with 1500 grit to keep it sharp enough for farm use.
great way to do it!
I just picked up a Benchmade Hidden Canyon Hunter and love it. It's a challenge to sharpen (S90v) when needed (diamond and no stroping) so I may wind up getting the s30v version... but it's shape size and weight are amazing.
thanks Paul. Good to hear you like that knife. They make good stuff
That knife is fantastic I’m thinking about making a video reviewing it after a season of hunting with it
I have the s90v version as well, and found it worked great on my elk this year. For a challenge to the steel, I actually used it on the hide and the bone as well as the meat (instead of splitting that task between two knives). It actually held a great edge through everything. Relatively light as well. But to be fair, I never would have paid the steep price for the knife on my own. But since it was a gift from my wife and kids…ok. :)
@Warren Ruppart Yes, I found mine at REI... it was on sale... $100 off the normal price.
Algorithm pushed this into my feed.
Liked seeing the crossdraw sheath for the Buck 110. I have a 110 I got from work as a 10 year gift. Nice knife... I just found it very slick to hold onto when my hands were wet with condensation from handling cold product at work...and got tired of keeping corrosion off the brass bolsters. Ended up swapping to a Kizer Begleiter XL button lock. Also works well with that sheath. I can draw and deploy the blade very easy with a little rotation in the fingers to actuate the button as I draw... with the blade fully deployed before my arm reaches full extension. When you crouch or sit regularly as part of your job those crossdraw sheaths being in-line with your belt very much keep them out of the way.
I agree! I love a cross draw, particularly for these smaller knives
Best treatment on knives yet. Well done.
thanks!
I’ve carried a knife for about 65 years and have never had an expensive one, mostly slip joints but plenty of lock knives and fixed blades till they made them illegal for edc (uk). Now I carry a 3” blade slipjoint lambfoot all the time. My pet hates; serrations and pocket clips, serrations because they’re only good for cutting rope (go below and get the breadknife !) pocket clips because they impede access to pockets and that’s where useful stuff lives,And I have lost two quite decent knives in brambles because a bramble slid between my jeans and the clip and flipped the knife into a prickley grave. I’ve never lost one out of the bottom of a pocket.
Stumbled onto this video. I found it very informative, with good perspective, thank you.
Thanks Bill! 👍 glad you liked the video
I take care of a whole deer with just a mora companion HD. I disjoint instead of splitting, which eliminates the bladder/rectum problem.
Have you ever tried the old 2 blade folding hunters on a belt pouch for big game? I particularly like the old Case XX but you can also find the Old Timers among others. I usually just carry a trapper pattern for edc and everything up to and including deer.
Thanks for the tips Cliff. I have a MT elk and mule deer hunt planned for October. I'm in the east and mostly hunt whitetails. Your videos have saved me a ton of money and time on prep! Much appreciated 👍!
Good Luck!!
awesome to hear. Good luck on those future hunts!
i am a knife snob of sorts because i have had such bad luck with the inexpensive knives out there. for my daily carry in my pocket knife a simple case folder works great (i only have the carbon steel bladed). hunting knives i like a thin blade with a drop point. i generally only carry one knife in the field and i will touch the blade with a stone every so often to keep it serviceable
I like this. Too many wannabes with overbuilt knife shaped objects, heavy af usually folders, without a clue how to use them.
Thanks 👍👊
Great video and very useful. I’m not a hunter, but am at least trying to get out on trails more. I’ve carried pocket knives since I was eight - a Camillus four blade camp knife and wore it out and broke one of the pins. Moved up to lock Camillus lock blades back in the 70s when I could afford them. Lost two and still have one I practically destroyed playing Army. Went on to Spydercos, the official knife of the Border Patrol in the 90s. Then came Cold Steel until I found they were hard to sharpen, Emerson’s with chisel grinds, and finally Benchmade. There were some Gerbers, Bucks, and Kershaws in the middle. I admit I bought many of the blades based on the cool factor, but have found the Benchmades are a good balance of good edge hold and ease of sharpening. I also pay attention to the lock as I’ve had a folder with a good reputation fold up on me once. Then there are mymfixed blades i have acquired with the same lack of logic…. The Gerber BMF was useful for chopping wood.
thanks for the comment. Lots of fun knifes out there. nothing wrong with trying a bunch and even buying a few just because they look cool!
Buck 113 is my go to. The size is perfect. Thanks for the video.
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Great video sir. I think you make some great points and I personally agree that serrated part edges are just a pain.
Having said that, I'm a big fan of carrying a fine toothed hand saw for bones and joints, and I frequently just cut into the meat. I had an interesting conversation with a professional hunter who questioned my approach as he couldn't sell meat the way I cut it. I explained that I'm not after points for neatness at meat is meat when it's cooked. But again I don't make a living out of my butchering skills (or lack thereof).
I used to scuba dive a lot and your video reminded me of a hard lesson I learnt. We were out one dive during less than ideal weather and in the swell I got tangled around my arms in monofilament. There was no way I could get to the knife on my calf, but thankfully I had a small Spyderco stuffed in the sleeve of my wetsuit. It was a tiny little backup, but it forever taught me, the best knife in the world is the one you have when you need one 😂
Yikes on the diving front! That’s right man, the best one is the one you got!
Buck made a 110 lightweight kickback with nylon handle. I carry one in my pocket when hunting. In my pack I have 2 custom fixed blades, a 3” caping and boning knife and a 4.5” semi skinner and a sharpening kit.
sounds like a good setup!
It always comes down to small handy hunting knife!
Something you like and fits well in the hand!
I'm 52. I've been carrying the same Leatherman since I was 19. Paid $20 for it brand new. I've been through three sheathes. Field dressed a few deer with it and a LOT of trout with it. Not great for field dressing deer. Too many nooks and crannies and the blade doesn't lock. I'm not sure there's ever been a day in my life that I haven't used it.
My hunting knife is an old Gerber Exchange blade. Came with a skinning/gut hook, saw, and utility blade. Sister got if for me for xmas when I was 16. The steel is good. Can easily dress a deer. Maybe 1/4 an Elk with it. I tried to use the gut hook - it's just not big enough.
Skinning and breaking down a Deer in the shop I've only used a 6" Victorinox curved boning blade.
I don't own any knives with a serrated blade.
A steel is the ticket for keeping the edge shaped and sharp.
So there you have it. Three knives. I only carry two. If I could only have one it would be the Victorinox with a sheath. It's deadly sharp and stays sharp. I've done 6 deer with it this year and it's still sharp AF. The main problem I have with it is knocking if off the table and landing EDGE first on the concrete floor.
I don't break the pelvic bone. If it's not to be mounted I'll try and run the blade up the sternum. Big bucks you just won't be able to do this, so you need to reach up in there. Bone and hide dull the knife so a steel (even a cheap little one is better than none) I debone everything so I'm all over the ball joints. I'm just careful with it because getting rough with that is also a good time to skip a blade into your hand or something.
Great Video as always.
Take care.
Lots of great thoughts and tips here! Thanks
My experiences have been very similar to yours and I agree with your overall assessment
Great suggestion on the butchering knife set!
I use that same edc green knife if sharpens quick and I the blade has a great point for skinning a hog or deer if I don't have my skinning knives
Yeah man, it’s a surprisingly useful little knife
If you like the Buck 113 skinner, the Buck 835 Selkirk small folder is a cheaper, more available, lighter option. I thought the folder would get gummed up with fat and wouldn't close. But I did 2 wt's back to back and the knife folded up easy. Clean it by pouring some boiling water on it; poof! Clean, sterile, no leather sheath all gooped with 20 years of deer tissue.
I love your vids, knowlege and opinions Cliff! Keep them coming. I'm learning real stuff that I can put to use hunting and backpacking. Thanks.
I just took a look at it. Might be worth a try! Thanks Phillip.
I agree with your take on Mora. Scandi is a delicate edge and I dread to fix a nick and keep it true scandi. Now I reserve true scandi for woodwork/ delicate work or I will put on a secondary bevel. Also, scandi grind with thicker blade is terrible at food prep and meat processing.
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If you don't like the serrations on the rat3 get an Esee 3 in s35vn! Same profile minus the serrations and in nice stainless, they also come with a decent sheath with belt clip
Thanks, I’ll check it out
@Cliff Gray Smokey mountain knife works has the lowest price I've seen for the s35vn! If you prefer the 1095 The Knife connection is the cheapest .
@@filterlessbear9250 thanks
Another solid video, appreciate it man! Bought a Buck 110, used it right out of the box to skin and quater a mule deer buck. Thing never got dull once. Appreciate the info and explanations of some other knives, useful information as always from you.
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I WAS a diehard Vanguard Buck knife guy for field dressing. I got an outdoor edge replaceable blade knife for an article submission to Huntin’ Fool magazine and thought it was a gimmick and stuck it in my knife box for years. Last season I took it on my son’s deer hunt and it quartered his deer like it was a freakin’ light saber. The Buck Knife will now reside in that knife box for a long time.
There are a lot of great/convenient things about those 👍
Like your take on, the right knife for what your doing. Hit a bone, dull no good. ( Gerber )As a hunter, fishermen , hiker, camper and working at the pig harvesting plant, real education I the use of a fillay knife , and special use knives.
Agree on bucks , use a baby buck to debone a turkey for Thanksgiving, (yes there's a video if you're board. !!) Makes a turkey roll.you pack it with sausage herbs stuffing whatever cooks in 1 he or 30 min empty. Have harvested road killed deer, through experience you use the SHARP knife that works.
Agree tooo many basement knife critics, that never hit a bone, cut a hide, made a smelly mistake, cut out a backstrap, or popped out a hip joint by cutting the tendons. Or was carving a stick and found out it was oak.😂😂😂, Why buck is still around. Affordable , and will make you get a lansky sharpener.
Most folks don't realize, the steel rod is for getting the fat off the blade edge, not really sharpening. So it keeps cutting.
Looked at a replace able blade, laughed, would break it.
Carry a junker, like you, for many reasons, live in a major city. Traveled around, But heavy is heavy, got cool looking kirshaw tooo heavy put it up , yah brick in pocket, feel that.
Have yet to deal with a scandy grind, still need to get the burr off it ,just thinkin . Can't shave hair otherwise.
For all the folks that made it this far.
Personally, Use a lansky sharpening system (red box with templet guide ) with a polishing stone , 30 weight motor oil, and a 25 degree edge. Can fix blade nicks, even on a hospital case. Regrind bevels and get rid of that burr, to shave hair. And make friends. to all the folks that made it this far. Can make a razor blade in 15 min. Read the instructions, a lot easier. Recommend it , wasted 10 yrs of my life trying to get it right by eye.
Life is toooo short to waste it sharpening knives.
Get out there, so you can tell, the story of your travels, to your kids.
Love it. Particularly the last sentence 👍 thanks
Gerber 650 , light and holds a decent edge for 2 deer .
You can get the BUCK 110 in a drop point blade, I find that it is alot better for skinning than the clip point version.
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I used one of those little gerber saws to cut through the pelvic bone on an elk this past November because I didn't have anything else on hand at the time. While I was able to get the job done, my shoulder was sore for a couple days afterward 😬
Haha! Yeah it’s rough. Hatchet or little axe is where it’s at for elk.
@Cliff Gray Oh man, absolutely. If it wasn't getting dark I would have made the walk back to the truck to get the hatchet. Honestly, after going through that once, I might just walk back to the truck in the dark anyway.
As a butcher i keep a victorinox 6" straight stiff in my vehicle for slaughtering whatever, and a fine stone for maintenance. I use a victorinox 6" straight flex for breaking down and cutting, and a steel for maintenance. Although for someone who can't get/keep an edge i wouldnt recommend the flex and to just stick with the straight stiff across the board.
I'm also not a fan of serrations when i can have a good clean edge instead.
Currently for taxidermy work i just use a scalpel. I thought about trying one of those havalon units, but cost of their specialty replacement blades is much higher and over time adds up a lot.
My moras were scandi grind aswell when I first got them. 😄
I’ll see you in mora-jail! 😜
I was hoping this video would be like this. I am not a hunter but I know when experienced folks are offering information. I hope inexperienced knife guys will take your advice. Well presented and I am sure it is sound advice. I have carried knives for years and have accumulated a few hundred of them. Primarily old American pocket folders. They are the finest kind.
All the best.
Thanks Joseph!
I carry victornox boning knives and a small sharpener for working game in the field.
That’s a great practical combo. A lot of African hunting skinners use that setup 👍
Good deal lots of good common sense information there. I agree with it all especially about serrated edges I read one time were this guy said serrated edges were for people who did not know how to use a knife. I completely agree with that I am a knife nut and do not and will not own a serrated knife. Darren
I’ve skinned and quartered countless deer and elk. I’ve come to appreciate the Havalon because it’s always sharp and one blade will get me through an entire animal. Get back to camp and replace the blade and ready to go again.
Not a bad way to do it
Sensible, practical advice. I've never really seen the point of a Scandi grind - bushcrafters seem fond of demonstrating how a Scandi can do smaller axe-like tasks, but why not just carry an axe?
agreed!
The Mora you used is the bic lighter of the knife world. I would suggest if someone wants a knife that is ideal for both bid game hunting and bushcraft in the boreal forest get a Brisa trapper 95 in 01 tool steel or Elmax. I have skinned , quartered and placed into game bags moose and elk with this one knife and then sharpened it afterwards. These are relatively expensive Finnish knives with a 95 millimeter blade from a part of the world that is full of moose hunters.
look like pretty cool knives. I'll look into trying one. thanks
Freakin love the content Cliff Gray puts out
thanks Tyler!
I’m not a knife guy by any means but so far the crkt folts minimalist with the black blade has been an amazing edc lightweight fixed blade…belly isn’t too dramatic, and it’s light enough on my belt that I forget I’m wearing it until I need it. Of course I love my havalon but I often just use my minimalist for field dressing…the job just seems to go quicker and cleaner for me, not to mention I’ve nicked myself a couple times with the havalon while cutting things free in the chest cavity, something I’ve never done with my minimalist. The blade on the minimalist is decent for skinning but not ideal and it holds edge well considering how easy it is to sharpen…but they were cheap enough to grab a few spares when I bought mine, I think they’ve gone up a little bit since then but still quite reasonable.
theo, thanks for the comment. I'll checkout the minimalist, you got me curious. thanks
I keep one in my bino harness for backup or cutting camp rope or whatever.. The minimalist bowie
I've found the Mora companion Carbon with the slightly thinner blade stock, to be even better suited than the more common stainless model. I just put a patina on it and keep it oiled.
One instance of a manual open, tip up carry knife opening slightly in my pocket while working was enough for me. Stuck my thumb between the blade and frame reaching for it and had a regular rodeo digging out my first aid stuff and getting it taped up with one hand.
I’m telling ya…try a small little stubby tanto shaped flipper as an EDC!! I just happened to get one (a really rare model CRKT) from some flea market guy and its shape has come in handy SO many times! You have to actually use it a while to start understanding how it’s better than a regular knife shape, but trust me, it really is.
Thanks Tim. I'll check it out and give one a try.
I got my buck 110 about 4 years ago because, you can open it a couple of inches and let go and it snaps closed, good for safety, frame locks don't do that. And it's held together with rivets not screws so It can survive a drop. Experience taught me if it's got a pocket clip you're going to lose it. If it's in your back pocket you'll find it on the car seat and if it's in your front pocket then you'll find it where you move the couch🤔 mine's got a case on the Belt😁 oh yeah made in USA tested by time👍
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For the Mora, I have to say I think it would be cool to do a micro bevel on it, but leave some scandi grind at the bottom for woodworking, so it could be a hybrid knife
Just to comment about the Mora and the honeing rod.
I bought a small short lansky triangular ceramic honing block / rod. Ps it is has 3 flat sides to it, and is about 3 inches long.
It is fantastic for touching up any blade profile including scandi's , in the field.
thanks, i'll check it out