I've done quit a bit of battery testing over the years, and you do make a point that the current draw might be low if considered over the long run, but in my experience, that very quick momentary draw is usually to drive a small transmitter that has a low DC impedance so the current that is drawn is very high for just that second or so. A lot of batteries don't handle that current spike very well and the voltage "folds" or drops below the devices nominal operational voltage so you can get hit and miss results, often dependent on ambient temperature, or age, either before use, or during. I feel the first test you did better captures in a reasonable test cycle time just how much backbone the battery is going to have when subjected to occasional very short momentary high current demand over a longer timeframe. For those who use these kinds of batteries in smart home sensors, this is good stuff to know. Thanks for taking the time to test all those batteries, and on a random note, I was using the Toshiba batteries and they do seem to work better than the rest I have tested. Cheers!
I bought some Nightkonic batteries a long while ago on amazon since it was like 10 bucks for 50 batteries and I just needed a coin battery for my rifle scope. I figured I would just get the one that has a bunch of batteries because I had to change the batteries every few months anyway when I had Energizer and I was tired of spending all that money on batteries that only lasted a few months. I got the Nightkonic and I can confirm that they last WAY longer than the expensive Energizer batteries and at a fraction of the cost! Then I saw this video and it just reassured my decision. I recently put these batteries in my green dot sight on my pistol as well. They last a very long time in that thing which is what I want for my CCW. Great video! Always great to get information and data like this before buying stuff to make sure it's worth it.
I'd only heard of 10 of these brands. I'm surprised about the large differences in run-times between the brands. I don't get through many CR2032s, but recently I had to replace about 5 in a short period of time. Thanks for the great video.
These kind of test should be updated every 3 years, for brands that out source their production. Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc. They can change supplies fast. Ty for your work
i found this very useful for my virtual pet. i was just gifted a pair of rayovac earlier. thankfully relieved! instant thumbs up and a comment for the algorithm!
Never knew you did this test! Very interesting results and appreciate the effort even a couple years later. The crazy part is there's nearly no correlation between price and performance at all. The Rayovac, yes, and it's even more expensive than nearly everything else; but, the Energizer and Duracell (common well-regarded/known brands) are pricey and perform more or less...terribly. Anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 the capacity of the leaders, most of which cost anywhere somewhere from 1/10th to 1/2 the price. The Japan cells being in the bottom third, another surprise. Just crazy how all over the place this one is. The only problem I foresee with random "no name" brands you typically find on Amazon...is the consistency and manufacturing/supplier choices. It would stand to reason that a Duracell or Energizer you buy today, would pretty much be the same thing it was when this test was run--still poor but at least still the same. Toshiba you can probably bank on being the same too, albeit in the best of ways. But "LiCB", "Voniko", and "NIghtkonic" great performance but...I'm not sure how much we can rely on these always being as good. Similarly one of the other rando brands might be much better later on too... But the best part is Toshiba is in the same price range as those guys... I agree it's probably the best overall buy. I know what I'm buying next time I need some! Thanks again for the great testing/videos!
Excellent testing procedure. Thanks for that. I bought some Steelton CR2032 batteries at Ollie's. They lasted about half the time of other batteries that I have used. I use these in my bike altimeter/speedometer. Most of the batteries last 60 to 90 days. The Steelton lasted 40 to 45 days. Cheaper isn't always cheaper.
Project Farm kicks ass! He gets a million views on all his videos. It's hard to figure out why some UA-camrs do so well and others don't get nearly the views. Probably timing. I was hoping I could find a Project Farm video on this exact test but this guy did a great job.
Great test review! I use these for a chest mounted pulse rate monitor/ gps when mtn biking. Sony weren't lasting very long but they were probably purchased 5 yrs ago. Buying Toshiba after watching this. Thumbs up!
Excellent! Thanks a lot. I wished you'd gone throug testing a couple of them though. In my experience, especially with the cheap ones, there can be quite a fluctuation in the performance of batteries, even within 1 package. I've found that LiCB has a guaranteed shelf life of 5 years.
I just ordered 5 Toshiba 2032 batteries to replace my depleted supply of Sony batteries BEFORE I saw your test video it looks like I made a lucky guess based on your data and the cost performance ratio. My main uses are car key FOBs and digital calipers.
This is an interesting comparison, however I would caution how much weight is put into these results: Maximum listed amp draw for a CR2032 battery is 3mA, with 0.2mA typical, according to Wikipedia. A valid test can really only be performed within these specifications, as batteries can perform very differently when under unusually high load vs standard loads. I'd love to see a test performed using mA amounts within a normal range, likely 3mA down to 2.3V or so would be enough. However, this would take several days for a single test, so you'd need a more efficient way to run your test
@@Tools-Tested It's interesting to see your results and I'm impressed by how many types you've tested but I am also wondering if you are measuring a different characteristic of the batteries with these high current tests. I've been doing a bit of casual CR2032 testing starting at 10mA constant current and I've settled on 5mA otherwise they seem to discharge then recover considerably. I'm getting far more consistent results of 21-24 hours runtime at 5mA so far... BTW, Energizer quote their capacity on a constant resistance load of 15k!
This is a very important point. I bought a few LiCB battery according to this test unfortunately, they last only 1 week on my car fob! While a good brand one can last 1 year!
Excellent! I was about to change the 3V battery in a computer and decided to see how abunch ofWestnghouse bats compared in a best-of-the-bunch test. The timing couldn't be better. Off I go for either Rayovac or Toshiba. Hope someone carries them where I live.
Thanks so much. I was looking for the best, longest lasting battery for my guitar pickup as changing the battery will usually mean needing to change strings too.
Very helpful video, at first a wanted to buy the Duracell or Energizer batteries, but after i have seen your video ill go directly for Toshiba. Thanks again
Getting ready to buy batteries and figured I would get the Duracell ones. Figured a UA-cam search and watched your video. Got Toshibas way cheaper. Thanks
Please contextualize this data by explaining how to apply it to choose batteries used in different applications with different stressors -- say, intermittent vs continual loads, and different environments. For example: - garage remote opener (intermittent, high/low temperatures, variable distance) vs. - continuous HR monitor (such as a Polar H10 heart/HRV monitor) used 24/7 to monitor response to daily activity, vs. - a smart bathroom scale linked to a phone (intermittent, indoor, short-range, ?humidity).
Thanks for sharing your test results. At 2:10, I didn't quite understand the difference between the two set of tests 0.010A 2.7V vs. 0.025A 2.0V? Does lower amperage means lower power draw? Why is the voltage for the first set of tests (2.7V) higher than the second set of tests (2.0V but with higher amps)? Does higher voltage means better ability to jump start?
I bet the only reason is because he wanted each test to be very quick. Unfortunately that also made all the tests pretty useless unless he proves a strong correlation between his fast test (high current, and high cutoff voltage) and the real test (much lower currents and lower cutoffs). I bet you will find a reasonable correrelation only on batteries with exceptionally low internal resistance. Unfortunately a real test with a more reasonable load (1mA) is done over the span of many days.
I love this. I was looking at getting some duracel or Panasonic batteries. Instead, I just bought some Toshiba batteries for cheaper. I appreciate you.
Wow that is a lot of work! Well done. I know what to buy for all my zigbee sensors around the house. I guess the only other thing that could change the test results is the battery voltage under load when in cold temps. I find my car key doesnt like to unlock my car in the middle of winter, unless i put the key in my pocket for a few minutes.
Thanks for the effort. Though a concern I always had with these ratings is consistency. Would for example, a LiCB battery perform the same from a 2nd batch bought 6 months later then the first batch? Otherwise this simply boils down to a crap shoot.
great review. i have a bunch of licb batteries that say 2027-07. they only last about a month in my prius remote. they are 4 or 5 years old but after this review i think i will go with the toshiba. and for that i will subscribe.. thanks alot!
So many brands but no Ikea, which is so popular and has good reputation in nimh aku, but also had good alkaine batteries in past (before discontinued). I'm curious about their cells.
Yeah I own 2 Rigol's now, work well and are easy to use. Just wish they had a real high amp unit. I have 2 in parallel now so I can load cordless power tool battery's @30amps.
No problem, key fob would draw very little probably a fraction of an Amp. But this test shows which cell is the strongest, which will theoretically last the longest*.
Great video! And thanks for taking your time to do this... Which battery regardless of price is the best to keep 3V the longest? I have had decent success with Varta. Ikea performed okay but not great. And Kodak is a total disaster some batteries dying very quickly. I use it for electronic shifting on my bikes hence the critical of using the best batteries. Side question, could it vary between battery and battery (same brand)? Because the ones from Kodak it varies so much
Thanks, to me the Toshiba seems to be the best. Defiantly could be some difference in performance coming from different factory's. Thanks for your feedback on Varta and Kodak.
Nice set of test results 👍. Varta are usually expensive over in the UK as well, but not usually that much of a disparity you are showing here. Looks like it is only a middle of the range performer as well.
Thanks, would have liked to cycle test them at lower amps but that would take years... Yeah Varta is not that common in the USA, I only know of them because of Krone which is the company I work for. The machines come from Germany with 12v Varta battery's, they don't last very well..
Just received a 5-pack of Toshiba CR1220, and they all read dead flat on the tester (which does have a coin cell scale, and the spent Energizers I am replacing move the needle farther). Maybe they weren't stored properly. The expiration date is 2026. Sadly, no Voniko or Rayovac in this battery size.
Wow, thanks, man. This is awesome. One thing I'm wondering about...for example, looking at the Westinghouse vs Duracell. In the .01A test, the Westinghouse lasted much longer than Duracell. But then, in the .025A test, the Duracell lasted much longer than the Westinghouse. What implications does this have? I would think the 2 tests should give similar relative results, no?
A lot of work was put into this with a lot of data but the main point is invalid. That being the run time. The test loads them in a way they were not meant to be used. Batteries like this are typically put in applications where they last for years, not minutes. Maybe draining them in minutes compared to the months they are designed for correlates, maybe not. Maybe other factors come into play in the long term, such as self discharge or internal resistance, that these test don't address. If I use these batteries in an application where they are drained in minuets your results are valid. If I use these batteries in applications where they last for months or years this data does not apply.
love it. I've never had issues with CR2032 batteries leaking, is that a thing? with a 1 year shelf life you'd assume so. I definitely buy small packs. I only use one or two a year. wish they were rechargeable.
The battary damge or loss some charge when short circuit + and - when used tweezers metallic ? Could it leak over time and be used and damage the watch or electronic device?
Just curious, did the batteries you tested have a manufacturing date? Wondering if some were fresher than others. And what would be considered a 'normal' draw on these? For example, I'm wondering if some of the batteries would perform a lot better under a slower draw, since so many of these batteries are used in things like computers and watches that take years to go bad. Obviously you can't run a 3 year test though.
Two valid points, only about 20% of them had manufacture dates of them 2 months was the oldest. Normal draw would probably be about .0002A for like a car key. Yeah that's the issue It would take a long time to draw them down at .0002, this load tester only goes down to .001. Almost would need one that could do 30 at a time and cycle them.
I discoverd that coin batteries are not all the same thickness. I bought Amazon batteries for my honda keyless entry and it worked intermittantly. I messed with it for over an hour. I went out and bought Duracells. I happened to put them on a table and discovered the Duracell was thicker and it made a good connection while I am very upset with Amazon cheating on the thickness of the battery
Are you sure the Amazon battery was a CR2032? The 2032 battery is 3.2mm thick but they make a CR2025 coin battery too that is the same diameter but is 2.5mm (from the last two numbers of 2025).
A bigger concern with seldom used devices or adjunct or emergency devices would be leakage. I heard That Energizer spent a lot of research and design, materials, and manufacturing Practice. Later I found a document that I didn't fully understand, but it bears a witness to their efforts. These small cells dissipate energy even in storage, Energizer later claiming 8 years shelf life, down from ten. I have Sunbeams that claim 3 years life. So one has to consider their concerned parameters, for "best" to have real meaning. So are you going to perform eight and ten year tests for leakage? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I won't be holding my breath as I would be beyond blue. 😉Good work. Thank you.🤠🙏🙏
Thanks for the big effort for this. Going to try the Rayovac in my aftermarket remote car starter remote fob since I think it draws a lot more power then a regular key fob. havn't had anything last 1 year in them yet now we shall see.
The effort put in just for coin batteries, amazing. Well done!
Thanks!!
This is brilliant! You've done a fantastic job on the data side. So interesting to see the difference between the low/high draw suitability.
Thank you!
I've done quit a bit of battery testing over the years, and you do make a point that the current draw might be low if considered over the long run, but in my experience, that very quick momentary draw is usually to drive a small transmitter that has a low DC impedance so the current that is drawn is very high for just that second or so. A lot of batteries don't handle that current spike very well and the voltage "folds" or drops below the devices nominal operational voltage so you can get hit and miss results, often dependent on ambient temperature, or age, either before use, or during. I feel the first test you did better captures in a reasonable test cycle time just how much backbone the battery is going to have when subjected to occasional very short momentary high current demand over a longer timeframe. For those who use these kinds of batteries in smart home sensors, this is good stuff to know. Thanks for taking the time to test all those batteries, and on a random note, I was using the Toshiba batteries and they do seem to work better than the rest I have tested. Cheers!
Yep I agree that intentional voltage drop can tell you which cell is the strongest.
Happy top hear you are seeing similar results in your testing!
I bought some Nightkonic batteries a long while ago on amazon since it was like 10 bucks for 50 batteries and I just needed a coin battery for my rifle scope. I figured I would just get the one that has a bunch of batteries because I had to change the batteries every few months anyway when I had Energizer and I was tired of spending all that money on batteries that only lasted a few months.
I got the Nightkonic and I can confirm that they last WAY longer than the expensive Energizer batteries and at a fraction of the cost! Then I saw this video and it just reassured my decision. I recently put these batteries in my green dot sight on my pistol as well. They last a very long time in that thing which is what I want for my CCW.
Great video! Always great to get information and data like this before buying stuff to make sure it's worth it.
Thanks, glad to hear you are seeing similar results.
This is the test I was looking for!! thank you very much !!!
Glad to hear that! No problem!
This is one best testing videos I've ever seen. Simple yet comprehensive. And I'd so go far as so say it's better than most Project Farm videos.
Thanks I appreciate it! This was actually one of the first test videos I did.
I'd only heard of 10 of these brands. I'm surprised about the large differences in run-times between the brands. I don't get through many CR2032s, but recently I had to replace about 5 in a short period of time. Thanks for the great video.
No problem!
These kind of test should be updated every 3 years, for brands that out source their production. Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc. They can change supplies fast. Ty for your work
Yeah I need to update this video, No problem!
Hi @Tools-Tested Can I second that? Still is much needed info. And greatly appreciated that you did it so thoroughly!
@Tools-Tested If you do make an update, toshiba makes two different models cr2032. One model made in China, another made in Japan.
i found this very useful for my virtual pet. i was just gifted a pair of rayovac earlier. thankfully relieved! instant thumbs up and a comment for the algorithm!
Nice!, Thanks!
Never knew you did this test! Very interesting results and appreciate the effort even a couple years later. The crazy part is there's nearly no correlation between price and performance at all. The Rayovac, yes, and it's even more expensive than nearly everything else; but, the Energizer and Duracell (common well-regarded/known brands) are pricey and perform more or less...terribly. Anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 the capacity of the leaders, most of which cost anywhere somewhere from 1/10th to 1/2 the price. The Japan cells being in the bottom third, another surprise. Just crazy how all over the place this one is.
The only problem I foresee with random "no name" brands you typically find on Amazon...is the consistency and manufacturing/supplier choices. It would stand to reason that a Duracell or Energizer you buy today, would pretty much be the same thing it was when this test was run--still poor but at least still the same. Toshiba you can probably bank on being the same too, albeit in the best of ways. But "LiCB", "Voniko", and "NIghtkonic" great performance but...I'm not sure how much we can rely on these always being as good. Similarly one of the other rando brands might be much better later on too... But the best part is Toshiba is in the same price range as those guys... I agree it's probably the best overall buy. I know what I'm buying next time I need some! Thanks again for the great testing/videos!
This is the best video I’ve watched all week. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
Excellent testing procedure. Thanks for that. I bought some Steelton CR2032 batteries at Ollie's. They lasted about half the time of other batteries that I have used. I use these in my bike altimeter/speedometer. Most of the batteries last 60 to 90 days. The Steelton lasted 40 to 45 days. Cheaper isn't always cheaper.
Thanks, and thanks for the info on steelton. Yep cheap x2 can be more expensive vs paying a little more.
5/4/2023. Thank you. You put in a lot of effort to produce this video, much appreciated by me because highly useful.
No problem!, yeah it was a lot of work.
Glad to hear it helped!
Thanks for doing this. Really interesting. Who would have thought there was SO much difference between brands?
No problem, yeah its crazy how the performance varies.
Thanks for the video, I appreciate the amount of work put into this.
Thanks! You provide a great service! Most of the top brands are still on Amazon. I went with the Voniko.
Why is this channel not as popular as Project Farm? Great info, keep up the good work.
Project Farm kicks ass! He gets a million views on all his videos. It's hard to figure out why some UA-camrs do so well and others don't get nearly the views. Probably timing. I was hoping I could find a Project Farm video on this exact test but this guy did a great job.
Thank you. Brilliant test, brilliant video. A master class of an informative ,to the point , review test.
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
No problem! Thanks for the support!
Great test review! I use these for a chest mounted pulse rate monitor/ gps when mtn biking. Sony weren't lasting very long but they were probably purchased 5 yrs ago. Buying Toshiba after watching this. Thumbs up!
Thanks!
Excellent! Thanks a lot. I wished you'd gone throug testing a couple of them though. In my experience, especially with the cheap ones, there can be quite a fluctuation in the performance of batteries, even within 1 package.
I've found that LiCB has a guaranteed shelf life of 5 years.
Thanks! Glad to hear you found it useful!
Thank you! Appreciate your testing and data! I think I’ll go with the Toshiba based off the test results.
No problem!
wow, that ranking is totally unrelated to price.
Thanks for doing this extensive test! And thanks for delivering the information succinctly!!
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
Incredible! Just what I was looking for, thank you!
Glad it helped! No problem!
Extremely useful video and thank you very much for testing them out.
Glad it was helpful! No problem!
Well done. You took a lot of your own time to do the stuff we think about. thank you
Thanks! Yep a lot of time was spent on this one recording data. No problem!
Thank you for the big effort to test these for us. This is good data!
No problem! Glad it helped!
2:03 what's the unit of these numbers? hh:mm or mm:ss? Why the number is larger for 25mA than 10mA?
Man, this video is amazing. I have an important device on the way and this is EXACTLY the video I was hoping to find.
I just ordered 5 Toshiba 2032 batteries to replace my depleted supply of Sony batteries BEFORE I saw your test video it looks like I made a lucky guess based on your data and the cost performance ratio. My main uses are car key FOBs and digital calipers.
Lol yep looks like you made a good call!
Don't your digital calipers take the smaller button batteries?
This is a really good video, with very surprising results. Well done and thank you! 👍
Glad it helped, Thanks!
This is an interesting comparison, however I would caution how much weight is put into these results:
Maximum listed amp draw for a CR2032 battery is 3mA, with 0.2mA typical, according to Wikipedia. A valid test can really only be performed within these specifications, as batteries can perform very differently when under unusually high load vs standard loads. I'd love to see a test performed using mA amounts within a normal range, likely 3mA down to 2.3V or so would be enough.
However, this would take several days for a single test, so you'd need a more efficient way to run your test
Correct it would take a long time at such a low mA, almost would need to have 10 testers running at the same time.
@@Tools-Tested It's interesting to see your results and I'm impressed by how many types you've tested but I am also wondering if you are measuring a different characteristic of the batteries with these high current tests. I've been doing a bit of casual CR2032 testing starting at 10mA constant current and I've settled on 5mA otherwise they seem to discharge then recover considerably. I'm getting far more consistent results of 21-24 hours runtime at 5mA so far...
BTW, Energizer quote their capacity on a constant resistance load of 15k!
This is a very important point. I bought a few LiCB battery according to this test unfortunately, they last only 1 week on my car fob! While a good brand one can last 1 year!
This is incredibly informative when it comes to using a device which I will be using to keep track of my mother with dementia. Thank you so much!!!
Excellent! I was about to change the 3V battery in a computer and decided to see how abunch ofWestnghouse bats compared in a best-of-the-bunch test. The timing couldn't be better. Off I go for either Rayovac or Toshiba. Hope someone carries them where I live.
Thanks! glad it was helpful!
The LiCB CR2032 Battery on Amazon UK has only a 3 Years Shelf Life which is a shame.
Great tests, Thank you
Thanks!
Thanks so much. I was looking for the best, longest lasting battery for my guitar pickup as changing the battery will usually mean needing to change strings too.
Wow. Amazing. Thorough. Well Done. I'm betting your're an engineer, or in another life you were an engineer! Kudos.
Thanks! yeah I have a AG Engineer degree.
Very helpful video, at first a wanted to buy the Duracell or Energizer batteries, but after i have seen your video ill go directly for Toshiba. Thanks again
Getting ready to buy batteries and figured I would get the Duracell ones. Figured a UA-cam search and watched your video. Got Toshibas way cheaper. Thanks
No problem! Glad it helped!
Please contextualize this data by explaining how to apply it to choose batteries used in different applications with different stressors -- say, intermittent vs continual loads, and different environments. For example:
- garage remote opener (intermittent, high/low temperatures, variable distance) vs.
- continuous HR monitor (such as a Polar H10 heart/HRV monitor) used 24/7 to monitor response to daily activity, vs.
- a smart bathroom scale linked to a phone (intermittent, indoor, short-range, ?humidity).
Thanks for sharing your test results. At 2:10, I didn't quite understand the difference between the two set of tests 0.010A 2.7V vs. 0.025A 2.0V? Does lower amperage means lower power draw? Why is the voltage for the first set of tests (2.7V) higher than the second set of tests (2.0V but with higher amps)? Does higher voltage means better ability to jump start?
I bet the only reason is because he wanted each test to be very quick. Unfortunately that also made all the tests pretty useless unless he proves a strong correlation between his fast test (high current, and high cutoff voltage) and the real test (much lower currents and lower cutoffs). I bet you will find a reasonable correrelation only on batteries with exceptionally low internal resistance.
Unfortunately a real test with a more reasonable load (1mA) is done over the span of many days.
I love this. I was looking at getting some duracel or Panasonic batteries. Instead, I just bought some Toshiba batteries for cheaper. I appreciate you.
Glad to hear it helped!
I'll take your word for it. Bought some Toshiba ones. Using in an optic.
Hopefully it works well!
Wow that is a lot of work! Well done.
I know what to buy for all my zigbee sensors around the house.
I guess the only other thing that could change the test results is the battery voltage under load when in cold temps. I find my car key doesnt like to unlock my car in the middle of winter, unless i put the key in my pocket for a few minutes.
Amazing, straight to the point video ❤
Glad you found it useful!
Thanks for your hard work on this video.
No problem, glad you like it!
Great job! I think this video will help me. I’d be curious to see what Dollar Tree’s Sunbeam test.
Thanks! glad to hear it, will do when I revisit this.
I would be interested to see if the weight of the battery has any positive correlation with the runtime.
Fantastic review and using a very scientific method. You made my day, Thanks so much!!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Well done on your efforts Sir! Thank you,
Thanks! glad it was helpful!
Appreciate the insight! I'm sure a lot more time was spent testing than the length of this video.
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
No messing around, great video
Thanks 👍
Thank you for this test!
No problem!
The Voniko link points to CR2016 batteries. I didn't notice until the wrong ones arrived on my doorstep. 😞
Thats really weird, you are correct it is wrong. I updated the link to the correct one. Sorry for that, thanks for letting me know!
Thanks for the effort. Though a concern I always had with these ratings is consistency. Would for example, a LiCB battery perform the same from a 2nd batch bought 6 months later then the first batch? Otherwise this simply boils down to a crap shoot.
Yep its really hard to say, probably also depends on if they have another factory to and if the QC is the same.
great review. i have a bunch of licb batteries that say 2027-07. they only last about a month in my prius remote. they are 4 or 5 years old but after this review i think i will go with the toshiba. and for that i will subscribe.. thanks alot!
Thanks for the info! And for the sub!
Superb video... thank you from London.. gonna buy Toshiba ones 🎉
Thanks! glad to hear it was helpful!
Should test IKEA “PLATTBOJ” in round 2 if there ever is one.
Their shelf life is disappointing. Just threw 9 out after 2 years in shelf.
So many brands but no Ikea, which is so popular and has good reputation in nimh aku, but also had good alkaine batteries in past (before discontinued). I'm curious about their cells.
Honestly it never crossed my mind, I don't live near a major city. I have never been is an Ikea.
THANK YOU! It's for a hard to reach computer CMOS batt, and I don't want to dive into it for ALAP!❣
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect information! The Rigol DL3021 looks mighty cool. I might just have to buy one of those too!
Yeah I own 2 Rigol's now, work well and are easy to use. Just wish they had a real high amp unit. I have 2 in parallel now so I can load cordless power tool battery's @30amps.
@@Tools-Tested I see USB and network on the back. Is there an easy way to get the data out of the 3021?
@@BrianSFischer yeah It can definitely out put data over usb. But I haven’t needed to use it because I video record everything.
Found my answer, looks like reasonably good windows software available from the website.
Wow! Thank you for this!!!
No problem!
Cool, I just ordered a 20 pack of the LiCB batteries for my thermometers , did you ever test AA and AAA alkaline batteries?
Really helpful video. Huge thanks for the effort
No problem!
very useful video, you went right to the point!
Glad to hear it was helpful.
Thanks for doing this. What draw would a tryical key fob for a car use, 2.0 or 2.7? Thanks 😊.
No problem, key fob would draw very little probably a fraction of an Amp.
But this test shows which cell is the strongest, which will theoretically last the longest*.
thankyou so much on this i know its a short video but it probably took a lot of time
No problem! yeah its really crazy how long most of these videos take to create.
Great video! And thanks for taking your time to do this... Which battery regardless of price is the best to keep 3V the longest? I have had decent success with Varta. Ikea performed okay but not great. And Kodak is a total disaster some batteries dying very quickly. I use it for electronic shifting on my bikes hence the critical of using the best batteries.
Side question, could it vary between battery and battery (same brand)? Because the ones from Kodak it varies so much
Thanks, to me the Toshiba seems to be the best. Defiantly could be some difference in performance coming from different factory's.
Thanks for your feedback on Varta and Kodak.
Thank you for your valuable data!
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
Awesome, thank you for your work!
Thanks! no problem!
Unsure how legit the test it but i appreciate the efforts here b/c i cant find much info on which is really the best
Yeah its tricky bc most devices draw a very small amperage for a second, but this give an idea how strong the cells are.
tMany hanks, here up North there are a lot of Sunbeam 3-packs. It would be nice to test those too.
Straightforward, simple, detailed summary, and excellent use of tables and graphs. Thumbs up!
Glad you liked it!
Nice set of test results 👍. Varta are usually expensive over in the UK as well, but not usually that much of a disparity you are showing here. Looks like it is only a middle of the range performer as well.
Thanks, would have liked to cycle test them at lower amps but that would take years...
Yeah Varta is not that common in the USA, I only know of them because of Krone which is the company I work for. The machines come from Germany with 12v Varta battery's, they don't last very well..
Just received a 5-pack of Toshiba CR1220, and they all read dead flat on the tester (which does have a coin cell scale, and the spent Energizers I am replacing move the needle farther). Maybe they weren't stored properly. The expiration date is 2026. Sadly, no Voniko or Rayovac in this battery size.
Interesting, my guess would be a bad batch.
Could you do an update for 3V lithium batteries also including new ones?
Kinda surprised you didn't test Jauch. They seem to be pretty prevalent
Looks like they are a European cell, it's hard to find in the US.
Awesome Video!!! Super helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful!
What does the 2.0 to 2.7 amp mean?
Great video! Very helpful! Thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Surprisingly few people saw it.
Thanks, yeah didn’t get many views.
What a great video! Thanks!
No problem!
Fantastic! Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you! Super helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the test, where is Philips ????
Thanks, just didn't make the list
@@Tools-Tested I bought the Toshiba, thanks again for your great video !!
Wow, thanks, man. This is awesome. One thing I'm wondering about...for example, looking at the Westinghouse vs Duracell. In the .01A test, the Westinghouse lasted much longer than Duracell. But then, in the .025A test, the Duracell lasted much longer than the Westinghouse. What implications does this have? I would think the 2 tests should give similar relative results, no?
Thanks! yeah I would agree, hard to say.
What a amazing job!
Thanks!
Hi! where can i find the security test ceritificate for the Maxell LR1130, can you help me with that?
A lot of work was put into this with a lot of data but the main point is invalid. That being the run time. The test loads them in a way they were not meant to be used. Batteries like this are typically put in applications where they last for years, not minutes. Maybe draining them in minutes compared to the months they are designed for correlates, maybe not. Maybe other factors come into play in the long term, such as self discharge or internal resistance, that these test don't address. If I use these batteries in an application where they are drained in minuets your results are valid. If I use these batteries in applications where they last for months or years this data does not apply.
Nah! It's a valid test nonetheless!
Did you do multiple units from each brand to see how they vary battery-to-battery?
Yeah the data is an average of 3 per brand.
love it. I've never had issues with CR2032 batteries leaking, is that a thing? with a 1 year shelf life you'd assume so.
I definitely buy small packs. I only use one or two a year. wish they were rechargeable.
I haven't noticed any leaking but I'm sure over time they could.
The battary damge or loss some charge when short circuit + and - when used tweezers metallic ? Could it leak over time and be used and damage the watch or electronic device?
Probably wouldn't leak but idk if I would risk it.
大事な車のリモコン等は東芝製、AirTagには3個100円のものを使っています。正解だったようでよかった😄
Just curious, did the batteries you tested have a manufacturing date? Wondering if some were fresher than others.
And what would be considered a 'normal' draw on these? For example, I'm wondering if some of the batteries would perform a lot better under a slower draw, since so many of these batteries are used in things like computers and watches that take years to go bad. Obviously you can't run a 3 year test though.
Two valid points, only about 20% of them had manufacture dates of them 2 months was the oldest.
Normal draw would probably be about .0002A for like a car key. Yeah that's the issue It would take a long time to draw them down at .0002, this load tester only goes down to .001.
Almost would need one that could do 30 at a time and cycle them.
Energizer's capacity is quoted as 15k constant resistance load which equate to approximately 170uA.
Which is the better CR2032 battery between the Maxell or the AC Delco battery?
The AC Delco performed better, but is made in China. Maxell is made in Japan.
Really great job. I'm disappointed about the brand Energizer.
I discoverd that coin batteries are not all the same thickness. I bought Amazon batteries for my honda keyless entry and it worked intermittantly. I messed with it for over an hour. I went out and bought Duracells. I happened to put them on a table and discovered the Duracell was thicker and it made a good connection while I am very upset with Amazon cheating on the thickness of the battery
Thats interesting, I could see how thats an issue.
Are you sure the Amazon battery was a CR2032? The 2032 battery is 3.2mm thick but they make a CR2025 coin battery too that is the same diameter but is 2.5mm (from the last two numbers of 2025).
A bigger concern with seldom used devices or adjunct or emergency devices would be leakage. I heard That Energizer spent a lot of research and design, materials, and manufacturing Practice. Later I found a document that I didn't fully understand, but it bears a witness to their efforts. These small cells dissipate energy even in storage, Energizer later claiming 8 years shelf life, down from ten. I have Sunbeams that claim 3 years life. So one has to consider their concerned parameters, for "best" to have real meaning. So are you going to perform eight and ten year tests for leakage? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I won't be holding my breath as I would be beyond blue. 😉Good work. Thank you.🤠🙏🙏
Thanks for the big effort for this. Going to try the Rayovac in my aftermarket remote car starter remote fob since I think it draws a lot more power then a regular key fob. havn't had anything last 1 year in them yet now we shall see.
No problem! Hopefully it will last longer.