Excellent job on the bolt and castle nut. Good now for another 130 years at least. Must keep that wonderful little railway going Michel. All thanks to you. Cheers Nobby
Thank you Michel for yet another excellent video. Your repair looks like it works like a charm. Thank you Peter for the bronze and the tooling. I’m sure that Michel will put the tooling to good use. RG in Kentucky USA.
Hello Michel. Helping to restore heritage assets is what I enjoy doing the most. The bolt and nut will ensure that the switch will be useful for many more years to come. Well done. 👏👏👍😀
Excellent job, Rusti. It's great that you are able to get this old switchgear working again. Very good of Pieter to gift you those goodies too. All the best, Mart in England.
Nice video. I like doing the heavy stuff like that, and it's nice to help the railway project. You did a good job with the treading, I can see you are confident with it. And now I have gift envy. Cheers
A 'split pin' is a hollow cylinder with one slot cut in it, usually made from some kind of spring steel. The kind of pin that goes into a castle nut is a cotter pin - basically just a wire formed into a pin with a loop at one end, then you fold each side of the wire out on the other side of the hole.
@@Rustinox I disagree, both out of feeling deprived of seeing more *you* on UA-cam (I'm sure we all agree on that!), and because I feel that a with a better camera (and microphone) this channel would be perceived of having more "production value" (without actually having more "production value"), and thereby a greater chance of attracting the subscriber numbers you deserve! I know it seems silly, but your channel is excellent, and you are doing a fantastic job at presenting your varied and interesting projects in a way that is both informative and entertaining. Attracting subscribers and views on UA-cam is a dark art to be sure, but I'm certain that some better equipment will lead to more views, and with more views, the greater return on the many hours of hard work you put in to bring us your marvellous content. And the best part is that you won't need to change anything else! You can just keep doing what you do, only with more people there to appreciate your unquestionably good looks!
Split pin is the term we use here in Australia too. I hear some peoplle call it a "cotter pin" which annoys me because cotter pins are tapered and hammered in, a totally different beastie.
Yes, our US friends get it wrong again. A cotter pin is the sort of pin that keeps the pedals onto the cranks of a bicycle. A split pin is obviously a pin that's split. Although what does my head in with split pins is when someone trys to tie a knot in the legs, instead of cutting them to the correct length and then opening the legs up a bit so they cannot pull out.
Not wrong just different. Given all the "contributions" to the English language, I don't believe Australians have much ground to stand on when calling something correct or not. Be that as it may, in the US a split pin is called a cotter and a tapered one is called, oddly enough, a tapered pin.
@@TgWags69taper pins are called exactly that in the UK English, a cotter pin has a tapered flat facet on one side, so I agree with our antipodean cousins who also can also pronounce solder as per the kings English 😂
@@TgWags69 Yep a taper pin is tapered, basically a long cone. then some of them have a threaded large end, which means you can get them out more easily. A cotter pin as I know it is round top to bottom with a reduced size at the bottom that is threaded. It then has a taper from the threaded end that reduces as it goes up the shaft to the large end. On a bicycle crank you'd knock them in to the taper and then tighten the nut to lock them in position. There is a photo on the cotter pin page of Wikipedia or as I would call a cotter pin.
I so much enjoy your videos! My wife and I are heading to Holland for a few weeks to be with family. We have some connections in the marine background (who doesn’t in the Low Countries 😂). I sold my older lathe a few months ago which I think is from the same manufacturer of the one you have. Mine was the “South Bend” Nordic made in France. Is see many of the same characteristics. I wish I knew more about those machines. You would be a neighbor I would enjoy meeting. Thanks!
UA-cam/Samsung finally fixed the virtual keyboard in my phone, hence the spam 🤣. It's good to finally be able to comment again 😁. Always enjoy your videos, Michel. Thanks 😊 Cheers!
info, i had latey the expiriance that when i did had to disengage an old screw glued with Loctite, or other screwglues, that they came appart very easy sure easier than when 10 years of rust clould develop in the threads. So i suggest you take the weakest Loctite there is when assably the screw to safe you a lot of work in the future when you have to take it appart. But maybe you knew that before i wrote ^^ Nice work mate nice work
Great job on that bolt n nut. Im envious of the gifts received, the endmills and drills. Those mill sizes are quite costly here in SA, my country. Jus joking about envious😂. You havent completed the hex head of bolt or is it machined to take different fastener in your country's railway system? Overall lovely video again, 👍 thank you
I would like to warn you that railway equipment has extremely high reliability standards. Most of the requirements are related to heat treatment and steel grades.
The bronze and other stuff is given with pleasure. Thank you for the nice video every week! keep up the good work Michel!
Thanks again. In next video you will see one of your cutters in action.
Nice job Rusti. As a retired railwayman an extra interest for me.
Thanks. That's nice. More to come.
Love your videos , from Norfolk UK
That's nice. Thanks.
Excellent job on the bolt and castle nut. Good now for another 130 years at least. Must keep that wonderful little railway going Michel. All thanks to you. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby.
Love your show
Thanks.
Good one Rusty . Cheers 👍
Thanks Max.
Thank you Michel for yet another excellent video. Your repair looks like it works like a charm. Thank you Peter for the bronze and the tooling. I’m sure that Michel will put the tooling to good use. RG in Kentucky USA.
Thanks.
Love your humour and personality ( oh, and skills). Keep up the entertainment. Dave in England.
Thanks. That's the plan.
Hello Michel. Helping to restore heritage assets is what I enjoy doing the most. The bolt and nut will ensure that the switch will be useful for many more years to come. Well done. 👏👏👍😀
Well, that's the plan anyway :)
Gday Rustinox, beautiful job on the nut and bolt also fantastic gifts from Peter, cheers
Thanks Matty.
Thanks for sharing....I Enjoy your videos.
i feel the same good stuff
Thanks.
Fixed and ready to work. 👍
Indeed.
Excellent job, Rusti. It's great that you are able to get this old switchgear working again. Very good of Pieter to gift you those goodies too. All the best, Mart in England.
Thanks Mart.
Thank you Gent👍🇦🇺
Welcome.
Nice work on making the bolt & Castelated nut Rusti.
Steve.
Thanks Steve.
Nut and Bolt turned out great.
Some great items there from Peter...👍👍
Cheers......
Thanks Dean.
very interesting job Michel
i bet that old point lever has seen some action, nice one
regards
Kev
I don't know where it comes from, so I can't tell.
Nice work, looking forward to the shaper repair. 👍😎
Thanks. We'll see.
Always a pleasure to watch your projects. Thank you for sharing!
No problem.
Nice video. I like doing the heavy stuff like that, and it's nice to help the railway project. You did a good job with the treading, I can see you are confident with it. And now I have gift envy. Cheers
Thanks Paul. It's fun to do but these rusty parts make a terrible mess on the machines.
A 'split pin' is a hollow cylinder with one slot cut in it, usually made from some kind of spring steel. The kind of pin that goes into a castle nut is a cotter pin - basically just a wire formed into a pin with a loop at one end, then you fold each side of the wire out on the other side of the hole.
Well, the names are diffrent depending from where you come from.
Michel, fun video. Your work getting that switchgear operational again is admirable.
It wasn't easy but now it works.
Good fun again. Very nice gift there - well deserved. Cheers.
Thanks.
Nice job Michel. I'm keen to see how you repair the bandsaw vice.
Regards, Preso
I have to figure out how to do it first.
Hi Michel, Great job, well done. Very generous gifts from Peter too👏👏
My crystal ball tells ma a shaper video is coming!!
Have a great weekend!!
yay
I broke my crystal ball last week :)
I love the way you turn stuff out of the scrap bin into such nice useful components Michel. You deserve far more subscribers.
Thanks.
So far so good,Michel.Thanks to you and Peter for his generosity.
Thanks.
Someone needs to buy Rustinox a new camera so we can all properly appreciate his beautiful complexion. 🥰
No need. This camera is good enough :)
@@Rustinox I disagree, both out of feeling deprived of seeing more *you* on UA-cam (I'm sure we all agree on that!), and because I feel that a with a better camera (and microphone) this channel would be perceived of having more "production value" (without actually having more "production value"), and thereby a greater chance of attracting the subscriber numbers you deserve!
I know it seems silly, but your channel is excellent, and you are doing a fantastic job at presenting your varied and interesting projects in a way that is both informative and entertaining. Attracting subscribers and views on UA-cam is a dark art to be sure, but I'm certain that some better equipment will lead to more views, and with more views, the greater return on the many hours of hard work you put in to bring us your marvellous content. And the best part is that you won't need to change anything else! You can just keep doing what you do, only with more people there to appreciate your unquestionably good looks!
Shame about the metal slicer, but that's just another video opportunity, well done on the Nut & Bolt. Nice gifts from Pieter. 👍
I will fix it. One day...
That is a castellated nut, sometimes called a castle nut. The notches are called crenellations. Neither are terms you encounter very often.
You beat me to it.
All very medieval really!
I didn't know that. Thanks for telling me.
good job your repairs are coming along good . thanks Peter for the toolling. im looking forward to the shaper repair . Thanks Rusty
Well, the shaper isn't urgent. So, we'll see.
Great video rusty, keep'um coming.
Love the castle nut,excellent job.
Thanks.
Very nice work sir. He he. Just like your style. Great
Thanks.
Nice work, Rustinox. I enjoyed watching. Cheers Tony 👍
Thanks Tony.
I enjoy watching your videos.
Nice. Thanks.
Split pin is the term we use here in Australia too.
I hear some peoplle call it a "cotter pin" which annoys me because cotter pins are tapered and hammered in, a totally different beastie.
Yes, our US friends get it wrong again. A cotter pin is the sort of pin that keeps the pedals onto the cranks of a bicycle. A split pin is obviously a pin that's split. Although what does my head in with split pins is when someone trys to tie a knot in the legs, instead of cutting them to the correct length and then opening the legs up a bit so they cannot pull out.
Not wrong just different. Given all the "contributions" to the English language, I don't believe Australians have much ground to stand on when calling something correct or not. Be that as it may, in the US a split pin is called a cotter and a tapered one is called, oddly enough, a tapered pin.
@@TgWags69 I'll take the American terms more seriously when you learn how to spell Aluminium 😎
@@TgWags69taper pins are called exactly that in the UK English, a cotter pin has a tapered flat facet on one side, so I agree with our antipodean cousins who also can also pronounce solder as per the kings English 😂
@@TgWags69 Yep a taper pin is tapered, basically a long cone. then some of them have a threaded large end, which means you can get them out more easily.
A cotter pin as I know it is round top to bottom with a reduced size at the bottom that is threaded. It then has a taper from the threaded end that reduces as it goes up the shaft to the large end. On a bicycle crank you'd knock them in to the taper and then tighten the nut to lock them in position. There is a photo on the cotter pin page of Wikipedia or as I would call a cotter pin.
I so much enjoy your videos! My wife and I are heading to Holland for a few weeks to be with family. We have some connections in the marine background (who doesn’t in the Low Countries 😂). I sold my older lathe a few months ago which I think is from the same manufacturer of the one you have. Mine was the “South Bend” Nordic made in France. Is see many of the same characteristics. I wish I knew more about those machines. You would be a neighbor I would enjoy meeting. Thanks!
This is a Celtic 14, made by Mondiale in Belgium.
Have a nice trip to the Netherlands.
@ the hand controls are Identical (oblong ribbed aluminum) and many similar pieces. I like machines.
Nice work and another fine video. Thank you Michel and cheers!
Thanks.
Hi
A nut with a crown is called a 'castellated nut'.
Keep up the good work!
Good to know.
Outstanding work, Rusti !
Thanks.
Can't wait for that piece of bronze to be shaped into a fix for the shaper 👍
One day maybe.
UA-cam/Samsung finally fixed the virtual keyboard in my phone, hence the spam 🤣. It's good to finally be able to comment again 😁.
Always enjoy your videos, Michel. Thanks 😊
Cheers!
Ah, back on track :)
Viva the machinist's brotherhood!
Absolutely.
good job rustinox
Thanks.
great work thanks for the video
Thanks.
info, i had latey the expiriance that when i did had to disengage an old screw glued with Loctite, or other screwglues, that they came appart very easy sure easier than when 10 years of rust clould develop in the threads.
So i suggest you take the weakest Loctite there is when assably the screw to safe you a lot of work in the future when you have to take it appart. But maybe you knew that before i wrote ^^
Nice work mate nice work
Thanks for the tip. Usually I use copper grease. Works very well.
@@Rustinox rewelcome. Glad to share tricks. Copper grease is some solution to. Makes me think i have to mix a MoS2 grease paste at monday ^^
Thanks for the video !
Welcome.
Thanks for sharing. Thanks Peter for some further support for more great videos.
Thanks.
The internal threading tool really drops down and away when entering the hole.
Indeed, it's flexing a lot.
🚂 ! 😊 👍
Thanks.
Great job on that bolt n nut. Im envious of the gifts received, the endmills and drills. Those mill sizes are quite costly here in SA, my country. Jus joking about envious😂. You havent completed the hex head of bolt or is it machined to take different fastener in your country's railway system? Overall lovely video again, 👍 thank you
I just copied the original bolt. There is no hex on it.
The nut is called a CASTLE NUT and the small stand up pices
Good to know.
Do you have a follow rest for the celtic?
I don't, but the day I need one I will make one.
You have a droopy bolt its just an age thing 😁
You speak from experience? :-)
@Rustinox 😎
When you are doing projects can you tell us what the material grade is please
Would love to, but I don't know myself. Mostly I use scrap yard steel.
I would like to warn you that railway equipment has extremely high reliability standards. Most of the requirements are related to heat treatment and steel grades.
Depends very much on the railway and the legislation under which it runs.
No problem. We have a member in the association who knows all these things.
Making progress and lookin good! Thanks Rusti.
Thanks. A lot of work but we're getting there.