Just a quick tip. If you alternate the sides of the clamps, it will balance and not tip, and will also give you more room to tighten. I actually even offset every other one a little off center to give good clamping pressure at the edges too. And the clamps on the bar are just called bar clamps. Good videos! Thanks for posting
Good video mark. When gluing up those 3 pieces, you can use a long bad clamp, with wood pads, to clamp the end of all the pieces longitudinally, which stops that shifting when you are clamping them together.
Mr. Hickler - I totally loved your video here but the reason of my comment is the last few sentences you said about CNC necks and necks carved by human. I agree to that sentiment even though there is really no logic in there. We need those imperfections for individuality. We need those imperfections to own an instrument where we know a person perspired to make it.
The clockwise movement of the screw on the clamps is what makes the wood move, if you put two clamps on with the screw stem on opposing sides and slightly tighten at the same time the wood will move a very small amount if any at all. At that point each clamp to follow should have the screw stem on alternating sides the opposing clockwise movement of the each clap will aide in keeping the wood from moving
Thanks Mark, I really like your video, I just started to build my own Canjo, it seems so simple to made, but once you start building it, it get very technical. Could you tell me the angle of the head? I cut my wood to a 15 degrees but does not look good. Ps. you really are a great artisan banjo builder.
I have watch several videos on how banjos are made. I always ask myself, as a woodworker, "why do they add ears to each side for the peg head?" Why don't they just cut a wider blank?
Saves wood. You would have to use twice as much wood and it would only be kept on the headstock. If the lines bother you, you can always use a back strap to hide them.
hi im struggling to get hold of some of that black fiber other than headstock sized in the uk is there another name it can be found by as i would really like to try some?
I too was a fan of yellow glue, however heat and humidity have lead me to a more superior glue and that the water resistant Titebond III. Because there will be times when instruments are exposed to adverse temperatures and humidity levels.
I know what you're saying and it doesn't flow as well. However I have a wet clean up rag handy and the trade yields me peace of mind knowing my bridges don't pop off when humidity reaches 80% here in the Midwest.
Just a quick tip. If you alternate the sides of the clamps, it will balance and not tip, and will also give you more room to tighten. I actually even offset every other one a little off center to give good clamping pressure at the edges too. And the clamps on the bar are just called bar clamps. Good videos! Thanks for posting
Good video mark. When gluing up those 3 pieces, you can use a long bad clamp, with wood pads, to clamp the end of all the pieces longitudinally, which stops that shifting when you are clamping them together.
Mr. Hickler - I totally loved your video here but the reason of my comment is the last few sentences you said about CNC necks and necks carved by human. I agree to that sentiment even though there is really no logic in there. We need those imperfections for individuality. We need those imperfections to own an instrument where we know a person perspired to make it.
The clockwise movement of the screw on the clamps is what makes the wood move, if you put two clamps on with the screw stem on opposing sides and slightly tighten at the same time the wood will move a very small amount if any at all. At that point each clamp to follow should have the screw stem on alternating sides the opposing clockwise movement of the each clap will aide in keeping the wood from moving
Thanks Mark, I really like your video, I just started to build my own Canjo, it seems so simple to made, but once you start building it, it get very technical. Could you tell me the angle of the head? I cut my wood to a 15 degrees but does not look good. Ps. you really are a great artisan banjo builder.
I have watch several videos on how banjos are made. I always ask myself, as a woodworker, "why do they add ears to each side for the peg head?" Why don't they just cut a wider blank?
Saves wood. You would have to use twice as much wood and it would only be kept on the headstock. If the lines bother you, you can always use a back strap to hide them.
Thanks sir for the information and details.
Awesome video Mark, I see my name on top for a lefty banjo. Was that my lefty neck in the video?
Bruce
Mark, is the template you show in the video available on line?
hi im struggling to get hold of some of that black fiber other than headstock sized in the uk is there another name it can be found by as i would really like to try some?
I too was a fan of yellow glue, however heat and humidity have lead me to a more superior glue and that the water resistant Titebond III. Because there will be times when instruments are exposed to adverse temperatures and humidity levels.
Don't you find that glue a bit rubbery?
I know what you're saying and it doesn't flow as well. However I have a wet clean up rag handy and the trade yields me peace of mind knowing my bridges don't pop off when humidity reaches 80% here in the Midwest.
If you used less glue your wood wouldn’t move cos with the amount you have on the wood is awuaplsning.
So you drill up your peg holes before you do shaping?
use pins
I'd have to say it's not about the money, its the incredible waist of a natural resource, just to get a banjo head not to have ears.
F clamp @ 4:26
Aquaplaning