3D printing and CNC in general are awesome for sure but the beauty and soul of these old machines that built our modern societies are unmatched. I love everything about them including learning tips on this channel. thank you Mr Pete.
Mr. Pete , Your Babbling Is Why I Watch !!! I Realize Some May Complain , But As Far As I'm Concerned Those People Can't Find There Own Ass With Both Hands And A Search Party Of 6 ... You Are The " UA-cam Shop Teacher "... And As Far As I'm Concerned You Can Do No Wrong !!! Ok , Ok I Know I'm Babbling , I'm Done . Big Thumbs Up
Thanks Mr Pete, wish I would have had you in school, good teaching methods, patient as well, and a really good explanation of the work, why it is like that and the theory around it, plus a good number of the tips needed to make it look great as well.
Beautiful work on those crowns! The sweet spot is early morning, with a cup of coffee, watching Tubalcain!! You should have a fun little auction during your meet&greet, and auction off all your left over castings, that you don't think you will ever use! 'Til we see you again.
What a great series. I just wish I had a small part of your skills. You remind me of my shop teacher Mr. Streator. He was tall, skinny, had a mustache and had a vast knowledge of the machines and taught us well. But that was over 50 years ago and the Air Force taught me a different trade. I'm trying to get back up to speed and your knowledge and video's are a great help. Wish I could make your meet and greet.
Thank you Tubalcain. Love your videos. I've always wondered what the crown angle was on these pulleys. A question though: would the angle change with the width of the pulley?
Angle would not change with width, the belt will track with a wide variety of angles, but with sharper angles it will crown and wear on the edges a lot faster, and with less it will tend to slip with non uniform loading or with use. I remember only my Drawing teacher, Mr McMahon, short Scot with an infectious laugh, was always patient and taught us a lot about drawing as well. Dod not help my handwriting much though, but I did learn to write block letters a lot straighter from his classes, I still write like my father, crab and all.
Yes my teacher was great. He taught me a lot. I enjoyed being around him and listening to his stories. It was a vocational class being 4 hours a day. So to be in it you had to pass certain requirements. But if you had a question he was there to guide you. He wouldn't tell you how to do it. He made you think and when you figured it out he would pat you on the back and say "wasn't that easy?"
Doug Ankrum, you have the plans too. You can see it in the video when he shows it on screen. Of course it would be more nicer to have it in a PDF downloadable format, but hey.. there you have it.
I like my Breakheart arbors. You are right, these arbors provide just enough holding power to do a light work. Heavy work needs an arbor just as you described. Well done as usual! _Dan_
Perfect timing is right! I just found an old Power King (notice I avoided using the 'D' word) 12" 3-wheel band saw in the junkyard because it only had 2-wheels. This series gave me the knowledge - down to the Oilite(R) bearing! - and incentive to make a replacement! Thanks!!
If powder oilite is not available use Vesconite, it works well for this, as it does wear less than oilite especially in abrasive environments as the grit embeds in the nylon. Vesconite Hilube is even better, self lubricating as well, though with time you probably will find the shaft wears more than the nylon. As a bonus it machines nicely, though you will have to make it quite a bit more oversize than brass and press it in, then ream it to size. That is the reason I paid for adjustable reamers, more because the shafting was all sizes in a range, and the original replacement bushings came with more slop in them after install than the original worn parts had when I considered them clapped out. Ream out till the shaft just moved, then a tiny bit more then lubricated the shaft and it was great. In this case the lube was Shell Cassida, a step above the original mystery grease it came with.
Thank you Mr. Peterson. I wish I had the time off from work to drive from North Carolina to meet you at your meet and great. I enjoy all your videos and learn something each time.
Those came out great! Thanks for the continuing education Mr. Pete, looking forward to the next 100 videos while re-watching previous ones in the meantime.
Thank you for making this video. It came at the perfect time for me. I am assembling a # 5 steam engine kit by PM and it has two crowned wheels that will need considerable work. I have the Red Edge tool for aligning the tail stock , but will need to purchase the shafts for holding the wheel while turning the crowns. I was agonizing over how to accomplish this, but your video has been a God send. Thank you again sir.
I received this kit for Christmas a couple of years ago, and have been working on it ever since. It is sold online by P.M. Research Inc out of 4110 Niles Hill Rd Wellsville N.Y 14895. I am 80 years old and it has been a struggle, but it keeps me going. Thanks to Mr. Pete his tips have made several parts possible. I am from Marina CA close to Monterey CA.
Watching the aluminum being turned, I could almost smell Mystic Metal Mover faintly. Got to say it's nice watching and listening to someone teaching the use of a lathe without hogging off metal every cut and finishing edges with a file.
mrpete222 I was surprised to see it is being produced. The fellow that started it was up in years in the 1980s. I would imagine that it had to be reformulated for today's environmental laws not even taking into account California's laws.
Ill never understand why people apologize for long videos. I love long videos! Gimme all the footage you have! If Im bored ill just skip around! Anyway thanks again for all your videos, and never apologize for having too much to share! :-)
Mr. Pete, I enjoyed the band sander series. I plan to do some experimenting with aluminum castings when this Illinois weather cools a bit. As a boy in the fifties I did quite a bit of lead casting, mostly for fishing sinkers. My father had a plumbing business for which I and my brother provided free labor, not withstanding the benefits of the food and shelter my parents provided which I now understand and appreciate. Those were the days of cast iron pipe with okam joints with lead capping so we had the lead pots and a lot of lead around for me to experiment with. I still have one of the old okam packing chisels I labored with for many hours. My father had several businesses through the years including a barge shipping line on the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. We shipped mostly wood products to the various mills along those rivers. Later in life after my military service I got into HVAC. Started as a tin bender then advanced to service. My life took a turn and I was a pastor at three small Central Illinois churches for thirty years until my military disability worsened and had to retire. From there I went to work for ADM and worked as a mechanical maintenance tech until a light stroke sidelined me permanently from gainful employment. Now I just putter around with my machines and enjoy my tools, such as I have. Thanks for your instruction that helps me rise above being a hammer and chisel mechanic, though the hammer and chisel do have their place occasionally. Dale from Decatur
Have fun experimenting in the foundry. My father-in-law was a preacher and a small church. When I worked in the hardware store, I cut a lot of soil pipe, sold a lot of Oakum. I loved the smell of it. We also sold lead ingots and lead wool. I also saw a great deal of used lead pipe. People brought it into the store as they were converting to other types of pipe. Sorry about your disability
mrpete222 Thanks for a couple of things Mr. Pete. First for the proper speaking of “Oakum”. I knew I was spelling it wrong. I loved the smell of it too but hated the sticky residue. Dad always told me to wear gloves when handling it but I really hate wearing gloves while working on things. Seems I have to have a “feel” for things and gloves prohibit that. Second, for your sensitivity to my disability. For most of my life I never let it slow me down and worked through it. (I lost my left eye from shrapnel during a firefight in Vietnam) At the time of my retirement exit from the ministry I had developed an infection in the socket and the docs demanded “no stress rest” or I would increase the possibility of losing sight in my remaining eye. (I guess they are connected somehow. Lol) That was in 06 and I was lost for a long time as I thrives on caring for a congregation. I adjusted and am doing great now. Thanks again for sharing your excellent teaching skills.
Love the babbling! When sizing the bushings on the Micro Stop Countersink units at Avon Machine and Tool, we would press hardened steel balls through, using the arbor press.
Thanks for explaining the crowning. I have dealt with crowned pulleys for years but never knew the actual degrees of taper. Also apreciate your explanation about included measurements. I scratched my head for a while the first time I built a taper lock. 😦
mrpete222 I will have to go look again. I have always released cross slide. Was trained by dad:-0). He passed about 4 years ago Thank You Mr Pete. With much respect Jim
PERFECTION!! mrpete!!! I have been wanting to make one of these belt sanders for some time now my 1951 SB has the very same taper attachment but I never have tried to use it ( I am still a newbie lol) I was with you on setting it up but then you lost me when you tightened the clamp on the cross slide I thought it had to be loose to be able to follow the set taper? (at least that is what I thought I had to do on mine) I don't expect you to reply because I probably didn't even explain it correctly!! lol & It will take way to long and I would probably not get anyway lol. Ill look for your video on tapper attachment hopefully I can find it. P.S I am planning on coming to your meet and Greet I'll send you a email to confirm maybe we can talk about how it works then? As Always Two Thumbs Up Sir!!!
Sorry I did not make it clear. I intend to do another video Someday. Do you explain the difference between a plane taper attachment and a telescopic taper attachment
A lot of small and mid-size lathes you have to remove the screw/s holding carriage the nut, check Abom79....he has a Monarch that you don't need to do that, but I'd imagine it adds quite a bit of $$ to the machines.
Very nice. Thanks for the vids. We used to thread parts with a 2 or 3 inch taper per foot and I can't tell you the number of broken carbide tool bits that happened because they forgot to take out the back lash. :)
Mr. Pete , the lathe also has many signs of student scratching their name , football # , and year or graduated, it runs from 1957 , my year of birth ., to 1986 the latest , I was asked would I paint it I said yes !! The tailstock and nothing more it is so historic. Yes I know I am a proud dad!! It will remain original! Oil will keep rust away. Steve
Thanks, Mr. Pete. Let us know when you set up “Meet & Greet Southern Edition.” Would love to come, but it’s a few hundred miles too far. I bet people would host you for regional events. I have the open space, but unfortunately not the shop.
seems to be a much easier machining process, than many end up taking with ball bearings and if you built it yourself, certainly easy enough to press in new ones years down the line. I've researched it earlier, as its on my build bucket list, and opinions go wild. I wondered how you decide which to choose in different situations?applications.
In the 80's I built a buz saw with 2 pulleys mfg from 8 inch sch 120 pipe ,mfg a hub , built a greaseabe brass bearing..Used a 90 deg. gear box from a 4 row stock chopper [old] .supported on a 3 point hitch, to lift up and down .ran by PTO on a 4010 John deere tractor ..Ran fine ,after a little tweeking..Cut a lot of wood with it..Wisconsin Bear
Back on the farm, we still had a few belt-drive implements, driven from a pulley on a tractor. I never understood (and I still don't) how the belt remains centered on the pulleys, but I know it has to do with the profile of the crown. Many years later, the flat belts on a hay baler rely on fences on the flat pulleys to keep the belts aligned in the right position.
Like the Breakheart mandrels! I made a similar one off out of aluminum with a countersunk screw but for the price you really can't beat a set of those.
hi i probably missed it i am from tasmania and am interested in building a belt sander do you have plans available for download thank you for your videos have learnt a lot from them i find them very interesting
I think you can build it from the videos, the dimensions are all given, along with illustrations, so all that is needed is to make the wooden models for the castings, and then cast them, or weld up some steel plate and angle and shape it on a mill to get the bed, and turn out the wheels from either large stock or make them using some steel thick wall pipe and some heavy plate to make the webs. In Tassie you probably could find some conveyor idlers to cut down from a belting supplies that does the mining industry, should not be expensive to get an idler pulley delivered to you, giving enough material to make a few out of the shell.
Awesome series again. Thank you. I was wondering though, whether the tapers could have been achieved using the compound set at angle rather then a taper attachment? I don't own one & since the distance across the wheel is not large, I am curious to know if it could be done without the use of the taper attachment?
Mr Pete, I’ve enjoyed your videos for years. Even began taking courses at local community college. I built a sander for my lab class and machined the rollers and pressed bearings. I tapered the rollers but I have question: is it necessary to crown all 3 rollers or can you just crown 1? I know you don’t answer all the questions but would appreciate your opinion. Keep up the good work.
At the engraving plant we had several sanders including a Rockwell wet sander 6", when one of the less knowledgeable youngsters were charged with the annual clean-up and replacement of worn bearings pulleys, and such he took all the wheels from all the sanders and removed the crowns until they were all completely flat, then replaced the bearings and pulleys and reassembled them thinking what a swell job he'd done. The foreman then tried each one to insure proper tension on all belts, each one shredded each belt then he looked at the wheels and blew his top!!
I just recently bought a H.F. 4” x 36” belt sander because the price with 25% off was too good, especially since my need for it was minimal. I was curious about the build, so I took it apart; the drive and idler wheels are molded plastic, crowned decently enough to do the job and nothing more. The motor ran very hot, as they give no more windings than necessary to do the job, and must expect the case to act as a supplemental heat sink along with the cooling fan. I don’t think you could squeeze another nickel out of the construction cost without making the buffalo scream in agony, but at the price point it sells for, it is sufficiently capable, and that seems to be the design philosophy in much of today’s power tool market.
Not that it would matter on this particular lathe project, but at 14:55 when you rotate your tool 90 degrees and start the tapered cuttings one should be aware that the shavings could keep the tool a bit high in the holder. I got into a bit of trouble once as the holder rested on fresh shavings before locking it down and now have the habit of removing the tool holder, wiping it with my finger and then placing it back down in the new position. Fine job once again. thanks. ron.
The double ended tool holder is not in Shar's catalog. Where did you get it? Great videos!!!!! Never mind I found it under "Aloris Quick-change Tool Holders; and I ordered it. Thanks you are a blessing!
Ah your clue about using the compound inline with the cross slide maybe the thing I been missing to make peace with my taper attachment. Will have to reinstall taper attachment soon and give it a try. I was trying to adjust just cross slide, and would get ally sorts of weird tool cuts as tool pulled into the work randomly....
Love the idea on how to crown. I’ve only seen crowning done 3 or 4 times. The old guy on my first shop did his crowns by moving his cross side while feeding parts, he had did it so much he could do it consistently. Question could you do this by the offset tailstock method?
I love watching your videos - always learning! Is there any reason why you'd choose a set screw over a keyway? I'm assuming that a set screw would be more likely to work on any shaft, vs a keyway being more complex of an operation?
Of Topic again what size pulleys on the motor and 1/2 time shaft should be on my south bend heavy 10 please .I am in England and I have no information hear.
Hey Mr Pete , I'm sorry to just crash in but I need some help w 13" SB lathe special! If you ever have time I would be greatful for help! Your vids have taught me so much! Thanks for your time . Hope I can come to meet and greet but I don't know if it applies to my area of country. Thank you sir . Steve
Hey Mr. Pete thank you for your concern ! Problem: 2 phase : first have serial # of 13031 TKX and catalog # CLC 145 C they seem to contradict each other! It is a 13" lathe with 6' bed and cam lock chuck? Can't verify chuck believe it to be D1-4 ! Measure.625 on lugs and 2.500 chuck center hole . Thank you my friend for your help ! Please keep making vids I have learned so much!! Steve
Mr. Pete, I know you said you are sick of making the whole sander but I am curious about the arm? How much tinsel strength does cast aluminum have and how do the arms hold up?
Don't kid yourself, we love your long videos.
You just filled my heart with happiness
Hour and a 1/2 would be acceptable....2 full hours might be stretching it....
The Crown goes to you. Mr. Pete. Great series and learned a bunch. Thank You!
Thank you
3D printing and CNC in general are awesome for sure but the beauty and soul of these old machines that built our modern societies are unmatched. I love everything about them including learning tips on this channel. thank you Mr Pete.
Mr. Pete , Your Babbling Is Why I Watch !!! I Realize Some May Complain , But As Far As I'm Concerned Those People Can't Find There Own Ass With Both Hands And A Search Party Of 6 ... You Are The " UA-cam Shop Teacher "... And As Far As I'm Concerned You Can Do No Wrong !!! Ok , Ok I Know I'm Babbling , I'm Done . Big Thumbs Up
👍👍you were not babbling. I appreciate your comment very much
Always look forward to gleaning the wisdom you share in your "babblings". Thanks for the video.
👍
You always start about 8 kilometers beyond going that extra mile, and I love every step along the way. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Thanks Mr Pete, wish I would have had you in school, good teaching methods, patient as well, and a really good explanation of the work, why it is like that and the theory around it, plus a good number of the tips needed to make it look great as well.
Thank you, I'm glad you like it
Watching your videos is the next best thing to being there, Lyle..I have enjoyed all of them...keep it up!!!!! Thank you!!
Thank you very much for encouraging me
Many thanks, I've learned a lot from this series. Hope the "Meet and Greet goes well and the weather cooperates.
Me too thanks for watching
I give you my deepest appreciation for all of your videos. To me each one is a treasure.
Thank you very much
Beautiful work on those crowns! The sweet spot is early morning, with a cup of coffee, watching Tubalcain!! You should have a fun little auction during your meet&greet, and auction off all your left over castings, that you don't think you will ever use! 'Til we see you again.
👍👍
If he like me something will sit gathering dust for years until the second I get rid of it and them I can find half a dozen things I need it for.
Great series wish I could have had you when I was in school.
Wish I had you in class. Actually I do have you in class now
Yeah, I was in High School in the early-1960's... Shop classes were starting to get cut due to 'Liability' issues...
Mr. Pete, I very much appreciate the time and effort you put into these very informative videos. Thank you so much!
👍
I enjoyed this series and still learning. I just want to say thank you Sir. for what you do for all of us.
I appreciate that comment
What a great series. I just wish I had a small part of your skills. You remind me of my shop teacher Mr. Streator. He was tall, skinny, had a mustache and had a vast knowledge of the machines and taught us well. But that was over 50 years ago and the Air Force taught me a different trade. I'm trying to get back up to speed and your knowledge and video's are a great help. Wish I could make your meet and greet.
I'm glad you liked the series. You must of had a wonderful teacher and that you remember him after all these years
Thank you Tubalcain. Love your videos. I've always wondered what the crown angle was on these pulleys. A question though: would the angle change with the width of the pulley?
Angle would not change with width, the belt will track with a wide variety of angles, but with sharper angles it will crown and wear on the edges a lot faster, and with less it will tend to slip with non uniform loading or with use.
I remember only my Drawing teacher, Mr McMahon, short Scot with an infectious laugh, was always patient and taught us a lot about drawing as well. Dod not help my handwriting much though, but I did learn to write block letters a lot straighter from his classes, I still write like my father, crab and all.
Yes my teacher was great. He taught me a lot. I enjoyed being around him and listening to his stories. It was a vocational class being 4 hours a day. So to be in it you had to pass certain requirements. But if you had a question he was there to guide you. He wouldn't tell you how to do it. He made you think and when you figured it out he would pat you on the back and say "wasn't that easy?"
fantastic series, mr. pete - loaded with information - thank you!
I'm glad you like that Kevin
I would love to spend a weekend in the basement shop!! Mr. Pete is my hero.
What a great series Mr. Pete. Learned many new things. Those crowns sure looked great. Thanks for all you do!!!
I'm glad you liked it
G'day mr pete Kevin from Australia. Another great video a fitting end to a great series . Looking forward to your next 100 videos. 🤗
I hope I live that long
Fascinating and very informative. Thank you Mr. Pete.
Thank you very much
Your videos are a delight. Thanks it know you spend hours on rehearsals and retakes. 5 Star presentation
Yes, it takes a long time to make some of these videos.
Thanks Mr.Pete! I always wanted to know how to crown a pulley. Simpler than I thought.
Yes
He's gonna make that band sander...
I hope
Yes,he will..
He just might, he's still got all the plans...!
I hope so too!
Doug Ankrum, you have the plans too. You can see it in the video when he shows it on screen. Of course it would be more nicer to have it in a PDF downloadable format, but hey.. there you have it.
I like my Breakheart arbors. You are right, these arbors provide just enough holding power to do a light work. Heavy work needs an arbor just as you described.
Well done as usual!
_Dan_
Thank you
Watched them all, thinking about building a sander like the one you have on loan so this was very useful, thank you!
Glad you liked it
Perfect timing is right! I just found an old Power King (notice I avoided using the 'D' word) 12" 3-wheel band saw in the junkyard because it only had 2-wheels. This series gave me the knowledge - down to the Oilite(R) bearing! - and incentive to make a replacement! Thanks!!
Glad I gave you the incentive
If powder oilite is not available use Vesconite, it works well for this, as it does wear less than oilite especially in abrasive environments as the grit embeds in the nylon. Vesconite Hilube is even better, self lubricating as well, though with time you probably will find the shaft wears more than the nylon. As a bonus it machines nicely, though you will have to make it quite a bit more oversize than brass and press it in, then ream it to size. That is the reason I paid for adjustable reamers, more because the shafting was all sizes in a range, and the original replacement bushings came with more slop in them after install than the original worn parts had when I considered them clapped out. Ream out till the shaft just moved, then a tiny bit more then lubricated the shaft and it was great. In this case the lube was Shell Cassida, a step above the original mystery grease it came with.
Thank you Mr. Peterson. I wish I had the time off from work to drive from North Carolina to meet you at your meet and great. I enjoy all your videos and learn something each time.
That would be too far to come
mrpete222 it would be a great honor for me. I hope you have a successful event.
Those came out great! Thanks for the continuing education Mr. Pete, looking forward to the next 100 videos while re-watching previous ones in the meantime.
Thank you do you think I will last that long?
You have to now, you just committed to a minimum of 100 more videos for us. ;o)
Thank you for making this video. It came at the perfect time for me. I am assembling a # 5 steam engine kit by PM and it has two crowned wheels that will need considerable work. I have the Red Edge tool for aligning the tail stock , but will need to purchase the shafts for holding the wheel while turning the crowns. I was agonizing over how to accomplish this, but your video has been a God send. Thank you again sir.
I'm glad this will help you
can you tell me about 'PM'...? there's a BIG hobby shop close to me might have info...RC Country in Sacramento, Calif.
I received this kit for Christmas a couple of years ago, and have been working on it ever since. It is sold online by P.M. Research Inc out of 4110 Niles Hill Rd Wellsville N.Y 14895. I am 80 years old and it has been a struggle, but it keeps me going. Thanks to Mr. Pete his tips have made several parts possible. I am from Marina CA close to Monterey CA.
Thanks for the lesson. I so happy that you take the time to show how something is made from start to finish.
Thanks
Watching the aluminum being turned, I could almost smell Mystic Metal Mover faintly. Got to say it's nice watching and listening to someone teaching the use of a lathe without hogging off metal every cut and finishing edges with a file.
I always love the smell of that product
mrpete222 I was surprised to see it is being produced. The fellow that started it was up in years in the 1980s. I would imagine that it had to be reformulated for today's environmental laws not even taking into account California's laws.
Ill never understand why people apologize for long videos. I love long videos! Gimme all the footage you have! If Im bored ill just skip around!
Anyway thanks again for all your videos, and never apologize for having too much to share! :-)
The average viewing time on my Videos is eight minutes
mrpete222 ah just goes to show you people have no taste ;-)
Mr. Pete,
I enjoyed the band sander series. I plan to do some experimenting with aluminum castings when this Illinois weather cools a bit. As a boy in the fifties I did quite a bit of lead casting, mostly for fishing sinkers. My father had a plumbing business for which I and my brother provided free labor, not withstanding the benefits of the food and shelter my parents provided which I now understand and appreciate. Those were the days of cast iron pipe with okam joints with lead capping so we had the lead pots and a lot of lead around for me to experiment with. I still have one of the old okam packing chisels I labored with for many hours.
My father had several businesses through the years including a barge shipping line on the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. We shipped mostly wood products to the various mills along those rivers. Later in life after my military service I got into HVAC. Started as a tin bender then advanced to service. My life took a turn and I was a pastor at three small Central Illinois churches for thirty years until my military disability worsened and had to retire. From there I went to work for ADM and worked as a mechanical maintenance tech until a light stroke sidelined me permanently from gainful employment. Now I just putter around with my machines and enjoy my tools, such as I have.
Thanks for your instruction that helps me rise above being a hammer and chisel mechanic, though the hammer and chisel do have their place occasionally.
Dale from Decatur
Have fun experimenting in the foundry. My father-in-law was a preacher and a small church. When I worked in the hardware store, I cut a lot of soil pipe, sold a lot of Oakum. I loved the smell of it. We also sold lead ingots and lead wool. I also saw a great deal of used lead pipe. People brought it into the store as they were converting to other types of pipe. Sorry about your disability
mrpete222
Thanks for a couple of things Mr. Pete. First for the proper speaking of “Oakum”. I knew I was spelling it wrong. I loved the smell of it too but hated the sticky residue. Dad always told me to wear gloves when handling it but I really hate wearing gloves while working on things. Seems I have to have a “feel” for things and gloves prohibit that.
Second, for your sensitivity to my disability. For most of my life I never let it slow me down and worked through it. (I lost my left eye from shrapnel during a firefight in Vietnam) At the time of my retirement exit from the ministry I had developed an infection in the socket and the docs demanded “no stress rest” or I would increase the possibility of losing sight in my remaining eye. (I guess they are connected somehow. Lol)
That was in 06 and I was lost for a long time as I thrives on caring for a congregation. I adjusted and am doing great now.
Thanks again for sharing your excellent teaching skills.
No less than perfect. Nicely done on the crowning. Enjoyed.
Thank you Randy
Thanks for the video and indeed the series. I like longer videos.
OK then I shall make them long
Two thumbs up for another great video.
👍👍
Well done series, I learned a lot from it.
Thank you glad you liked
Perfect timing... Coffee is ready!!
Pour me a cup
Love the babbling! When sizing the bushings on the Micro Stop Countersink units at Avon Machine and Tool, we would press hardened steel balls through, using the arbor press.
My brother uses that method with the balls
Yep...!!!! Now I realise how lucky I am having a best friend with a 3-D printer... ;)
Well done...!!!
👍👍
More info I didn't know. I'm getting smarter every video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks
Two college degrees best teacher I' ve ever had!
Thank you very much for a very high compliment
Thank you for another great lesson and video!
Thank you very much
Very useful. I'm planning on making a 2x72 sander. This will definitely be referred to.
Thank you
nice series Mr. Pete. Thanks
Thank you
I enjoyed the birds eye view on the lathe even if you kept hitting your head
My head is still sore
Outstanding series my friend, I loved it.
Thank you very much
Excellent series once again. Thank you. Regards, Ted.
Thank you
Great job MrPete!
Thank you
Very well explained. I'm going to be turning my own 140mm crowned pulley soon.
Great video,s Lyle as always.
Thank you
Thank you Sir! I appreciate the hard work you put in your videos.
Thank you very much
Come on Mr Pete. We would all love to see you build the full belt sander!
👍
Very nice work, Lyle. I seem to recall that Keith Fenner once made crowned pulleys having a true radius by making a template for his taper attachment.
I did not see that. If you ever find that video again, let me know
Hello I pesume in the background I can hear a cricket? wonderful to hear wild life-yes. Great video, thanks.
People will not let me kill it, they had a fit when I killed a ladybug
Thanks for explaining the crowning. I have dealt with crowned pulleys for years but never knew the actual degrees of taper. Also apreciate your explanation about included measurements. I scratched my head for a while the first time I built a taper lock. 😦
I am glad it helped
Great series. Have the 10 inch SB with taper attachment. Not clear why the cross feed screw does not get removed. Thank You for posting this.
Jim
I may do a video on that Some day
mrpete222 I will have to go look again. I have always released cross slide. Was trained by dad:-0). He passed about 4 years ago
Thank You Mr Pete. With much respect
Jim
PERFECTION!! mrpete!!! I have been wanting to make one of these belt sanders for some time now my 1951 SB has the very same taper attachment but I never have tried to use it ( I am still a newbie lol) I was with you on setting it up but then you lost me when you tightened the clamp on the cross slide I thought it had to be loose to be able to follow the set taper? (at least that is what I thought I had to do on mine) I don't expect you to reply because I probably didn't even explain it correctly!! lol & It will take way to long and I would probably not get anyway lol. Ill look for your video on tapper attachment hopefully I can find it. P.S I am planning on coming to your meet and Greet I'll send you a email to confirm maybe we can talk about how it works then? As Always Two Thumbs Up Sir!!!
i did not understand that either. my Atlas 12X36 ,must have the part removed so the carriage will follow.
So you understood what I was confused about, I was concerned I made myself look like a total Idiot! lol Thanks commndo340 for the reply
Sorry I did not make it clear. I intend to do another video Someday. Do you explain the difference between a plane taper attachment and a telescopic taper attachment
A lot of small and mid-size lathes you have to remove the screw/s holding carriage the nut, check Abom79....he has a Monarch that you don't need to do that, but I'd imagine it adds quite a bit of $$ to the machines.
Thanks Lyle. Great video
Thank you
Very nice. Thanks for the vids. We used to thread parts with a 2 or 3 inch taper per foot and I can't tell you the number of broken carbide tool bits that happened because they forgot to take out the back lash. :)
Yes, the dreaded backlash
"YOUR YOU TUBE SHOP TEACHER"
"Is amongst the BEST Teachers".
"As SURE as Jesus made Little Green Apples"
Thank you very much. You caught me at a moment where I need encouragement
We love you Mr. Pete. Keep your chin up. :)
Then I will include you in my prayers every day. Things WILL get better. Praise Jesus dear friend.
I really wish you would make the complete belt sander!! I know I’m not the only one who would enjoy it!
I no longer have the patterns
great video, I built one of those sanders in school 35 years ago
Awesome
Thank you Mr Pete. I enjoyed the whole process. You could probably sell you plans to the 2" belt sander, if you had a mind.
Thank you
Mr. Pete , the lathe also has many signs of student scratching their name , football # , and year or graduated, it runs from 1957 , my year of birth ., to 1986 the latest , I was asked would I paint it I said yes !! The tailstock and nothing more it is so historic. Yes I know I am a proud dad!! It will remain original! Oil will keep rust away. Steve
Yes, do not paint it. The graffiti and other markings give it character
Enjoyed the series. Thanks much.
Yes
Neat series of videos. A lot of information, but well presented as usual.
30 minutes isn't too long for a video, even with your babbling!
Thanks.
Thank you
Thanks, Mr. Pete.
Let us know when you set up “Meet & Greet Southern Edition.” Would love to come, but it’s a few hundred miles too far. I bet people would host you for regional events. I have the open space, but unfortunately not the shop.
Southern addition, you made me laugh. Not many in the north would want to see me, let alone the south.
seems to be a much easier machining process, than many end up taking with ball bearings and if you built it yourself, certainly easy enough to press in new ones years down the line. I've researched it earlier, as its on my build bucket list, and opinions go wild. I wondered how you decide which to choose in different situations?applications.
Ball bearings are cheap and easy to install
Nice work Mr Pete!. A lot of times that 45 deg flat area is used for a grease zerk.
Yes good point
Great series! It would be nice to see the finished sander. It could be a garage sale item or a door prize at your meet and greet.
They're probably never will be a finished Soundr
That is Sander
In the 80's I built a buz saw with 2 pulleys mfg from 8 inch sch 120 pipe ,mfg a hub , built a greaseabe brass bearing..Used a 90 deg. gear box from a 4 row stock chopper [old] .supported on a 3 point hitch, to lift up and down .ran by PTO on a 4010 John deere tractor ..Ran fine ,after a little tweeking..Cut a lot of wood with it..Wisconsin Bear
That sounds awesome
Back on the farm, we still had a few belt-drive implements, driven from a pulley on a tractor. I never understood (and I still don't) how the belt remains centered on the pulleys, but I know it has to do with the profile of the crown.
Many years later, the flat belts on a hay baler rely on fences on the flat pulleys to keep the belts aligned in the right position.
It's one of the great mysteries of life
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you for watching
Like the Breakheart mandrels! I made a similar one off out of aluminum with a countersunk screw but for the price you really can't beat a set of those.
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great INFO on some I have forgotten on taper ! Thanks !
I am glad you liked it
2 thumbs up - wonderful info.
Thanks
hi i probably missed it i am from tasmania and am interested in building a belt sander do you have plans available for download thank you for your videos have learnt a lot from them i find them very interesting
Sorry, do not
I think you can build it from the videos, the dimensions are all given, along with illustrations, so all that is needed is to make the wooden models for the castings, and then cast them, or weld up some steel plate and angle and shape it on a mill to get the bed, and turn out the wheels from either large stock or make them using some steel thick wall pipe and some heavy plate to make the webs. In Tassie you probably could find some conveyor idlers to cut down from a belting supplies that does the mining industry, should not be expensive to get an idler pulley delivered to you, giving enough material to make a few out of the shell.
i do not have a mill or a way do do casting only have a lathe that was made early 1900s no name on it
tassie is one very expensive place to live when only on one wage
Awesome series again. Thank you. I was wondering though, whether the tapers could have been achieved using the compound set at angle rather then a taper attachment? I don't own one & since the distance across the wheel is not large, I am curious to know if it could be done without the use of the taper attachment?
Yes, you could certainly make them buy that method
Mr Pete, I’ve enjoyed your videos for years. Even began taking courses at local community college. I built a sander for my lab class and machined the rollers and pressed bearings. I tapered the rollers but I have question: is it necessary to crown all 3 rollers or can you just crown 1? I know you don’t answer all the questions but would appreciate your opinion. Keep up the good work.
Hi always crowned all three wheels
At the engraving plant we had several sanders including a Rockwell wet sander 6", when one of the less knowledgeable youngsters were charged with the annual clean-up and replacement of worn bearings pulleys, and such he took all the wheels from all the sanders and removed the crowns until they were all completely flat, then replaced the bearings and pulleys and reassembled them thinking what a swell job he'd done. The foreman then tried each one to insure proper tension on all belts, each one shredded each belt then he looked at the wheels and blew his top!!
That is a very funny story if it were not so pathetic
One thought.
If you scored a centre line on the circumference, you could machine from both sides to that line, to make the crown meet in the middle.
Good idea
I just recently bought a H.F. 4” x 36” belt sander because the price with 25% off was too good, especially since my need for it was minimal. I was curious about the build, so I took it apart; the drive and idler wheels are molded plastic, crowned decently enough to do the job and nothing more. The motor ran very hot, as they give no more windings than necessary to do the job, and must expect the case to act as a supplemental heat sink along with the cooling fan. I don’t think you could squeeze another nickel out of the construction cost without making the buffalo scream in agony, but at the price point it sells for, it is sufficiently capable, and that seems to be the design philosophy in much of today’s power tool market.
I think your analysis is perfect
Nice work. I'm not sure if this has been asked. Any chance you would post your plans? It looks like an interesting and useful little sander!
Maybe I will
Execelent Mr pete
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Great information I didn’t know the pulley has a crown.
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Not that it would matter on this particular lathe project, but at 14:55 when you rotate your tool 90 degrees and start the tapered cuttings one should be aware that the shavings could keep the tool a bit high in the holder. I got into a bit of trouble once as the holder rested on fresh shavings before locking it down and now have the habit of removing the tool holder, wiping it with my finger and then placing it back down in the new position. Fine job once again. thanks. ron.
That is good advice
Nice video series as always. If you did finish that sander I sure would watch all of it. :-)
Thanks
I like your videos I have learned some things I would like to know if you would ever sell some of your plans
Thank you
The double ended tool holder is not in Shar's catalog. Where did you get it? Great videos!!!!! Never mind I found it under "Aloris Quick-change Tool Holders; and I ordered it. Thanks you are a blessing!
It is in the current catalog with the purple cover
Ah your clue about using the compound inline with the cross slide maybe the thing I been missing to make peace with my taper attachment. Will have to reinstall taper attachment soon and give it a try. I was trying to adjust just cross slide, and would get ally sorts of weird tool cuts as tool pulled into the work randomly....
Thanks
Some dogs don’t bark before they bite ! Always good to be careful . LOL !
Yeah
Love the idea on how to crown. I’ve only seen crowning done 3 or 4 times. The old guy on my first shop did his crowns by moving his cross side while feeding parts, he had did it so much he could do it consistently. Question could you do this by the offset tailstock method?
That old guy must've been pretty good
I love watching your videos - always learning! Is there any reason why you'd choose a set screw over a keyway? I'm assuming that a set screw would be more likely to work on any shaft, vs a keyway being more complex of an operation?
A keyway made it too difficult for high school students. Either way would work fine
Of Topic again what size pulleys on the motor and 1/2 time shaft should be on my south bend heavy 10 please .I am in England and I have no information hear.
this is wonderful
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Hey Mr Pete , I'm sorry to just crash in but I need some help w 13" SB lathe special! If you ever have time I would be greatful for help! Your vids have taught me so much! Thanks for your time . Hope I can come to meet and greet but I don't know if it applies to my area of country. Thank you sir . Steve
Yes, anyone can come. What is the problem with the southbound
Hey Mr. Pete thank you for your concern ! Problem: 2 phase : first have serial # of 13031 TKX and catalog # CLC 145 C they seem to contradict each other! It is a 13" lathe with 6' bed and cam lock chuck? Can't verify chuck believe it to be D1-4 ! Measure.625 on lugs and 2.500 chuck center hole . Thank you my friend for your help ! Please keep making vids I have learned so much!! Steve
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Thank you for your continued faithfulness
Mr. Pete, I know you said you are sick of making the whole sander but I am curious about the arm? How much tinsel strength does cast aluminum have and how do the arms hold up?
Never had one break, I don't think there's that much stress on it. It is not spring loaded
As always great video.
Thank you