It's a big money saver. The quality isn't quite as good as expensive mchine grade aluminium, but plenty good enough for project/hobby work. It's not as difficult as some people make out. There is however quite a lot of BS being circulated about it. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Well that's why I only use reliable sources Rob...like your channel, for advice. I liked how you showed the melting of the aluminium on wood/charcoal using a blower...never would have occurred to me.
@@Xynudu Indeed,Rob,lots of BS gets posted about basic aluminium casting. I think the most important point that you frequently mention is don't overheat the molten metal....get it melted and poured soon after.
I also find that re-melting cast "ingots" significantly improves the quality of the part being cast. I also have found that mixing a bit of cast scrap (typically A356 alloy) with rolled /drawn scrap alloy (typically 6061 or 3004 for most soda cans) improves the final casting.
I think the second melt rises left over impurities into the dross. This is useful if the ally being used is corroded, painted, dirty etc. On good quality clean ally it's rarely necessary. I've never had good results from extrusions, but the quality varies enormously, so with the right stuff it can come out good, as fellow casters have demonstrated. Cheers Rob
Note: I re-melted the aluminium casting as some of the pieces I used were heavily oxidized and didn't rise into dross in the first pass. Impurities generally appear as small black dots in the cast. Gassing is different and appears as voids of varying sizes, though they are generally multiple small pin head ones. Large voids are generally caused by shrinkage when cooling too quickly, or from air trapped when pouring too slowly. A re-melt usually fixes it, as shown. Cheers Rob
Hi Nobby. Most of the time we use a few favourite/most useful turning tools, and the two four ways easily hold them all. One is for external and one for internal. I have a quick change tool post on the Schaublin, but it's no big advantage really. Do whatever floats your boat. The main reason I stuck with the four way on the 10" swing lathe is because it's the most rigid. Cheers Rob
Never ceases to amaze me that one the worlds largest producers of aluminum forces metal working hobbyists to use home-cast aluminum due to cost of the material @home.
Yep, gotta go with the times Jon. The tan work shirts I always wore are now pretty much replaced with the Hi-Vis ones. I suppose that's where the demand is now. Should make it easier for people to find me ;) Cheers Rob
Hi Tony. Yes, it came up pretty well. I roughed it up with a GP carbide insert (TCMT) and finished off with one made for aluminium. It's very dependent on cutter type and you need lube to prevent galling and feathering. HSS also works well. Cheers Rob
Nice job Rob 👍👍I know the aluminium we cast is from different sources but it looks like yours machines much the same as mine. I have found that to get the best finish a really slow feed is needed, go too fast and it will cut ok but the finish is crap. Always good to see a collet chuck in the tailstock 👍👍 Why more people don't do this is beyond me. The only Jacobs like chuck I use in the tailstock these days is a tiny 0-1/6" Albrecht, which is great for really small drill bits and taps. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan. Yes, you are getting good results. Once the technique is worked out it all comes together nicely. I use the finest feed rate for the finish cut and a really sharp edged cutter. This is where having a quick change gearbox is a must have. Also use kero/oil lube. Collet chucks are great in all of their configurations. It's puzzling why only a minority use them. Cheers Rob
Always a bit there to take notice of, thankyou. Them safety freaks will always get you on something minor. hope your flashing light and reverse beeper is good, that's next. Been putting up with those so and so's for too long, earthmoving machine's. Thanks for your efforts, I have been having the same trouble with those pinholes too.
Ha Ha. I half expected to get repremanded for wearing a glove (it is an approved type). Regarding pinholes, try lowering the melt temperature to reduce gasing. Cheers Rob
Hi Andrew. It turned out good on the second attempt. The quality of the aluminium used has a BIG effect on the outcome. Anyone can do this provided they stick to a few basic rules. Cheers Rob
Hi Harold. Ralph abandoned ship. They move about quite a lot and don't always survive in suburbia due to dogs and cars etc. He was never going to make much of a machinist anyway. Didn't listen to a word I said. Cheers Rob
The thought of being able to use scrap to make a high value parts is astounding. Thanks for the tips re pouring too.
It's a big money saver. The quality isn't quite as good as expensive mchine grade aluminium, but plenty good enough for project/hobby work. It's not as difficult as some people make out. There is however quite a lot of BS being circulated about it. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Well that's why I only use reliable sources Rob...like your channel, for advice.
I liked how you showed the melting of the aluminium on wood/charcoal using a blower...never would have occurred to me.
@@Xynudu Indeed,Rob,lots of BS gets posted about basic aluminium casting. I think the most important point that you frequently mention is don't overheat the molten metal....get it melted and poured soon after.
Yes, it's pointless and negative to keep heating aluminium once it's melted. This is where most people go wrong. Cheers Rob
I also find that re-melting cast "ingots" significantly improves the quality of the part being cast. I also have found that mixing a bit of cast scrap (typically A356 alloy) with rolled /drawn scrap alloy (typically 6061 or 3004 for most soda cans) improves the final casting.
I think the second melt rises left over impurities into the dross. This is useful if the ally being used is corroded, painted, dirty etc. On good quality clean ally it's rarely necessary. I've never had good results from extrusions, but the quality varies enormously, so with the right stuff it can come out good, as fellow casters have demonstrated. Cheers Rob
Note: I re-melted the aluminium casting as some of the pieces I used were heavily oxidized and didn't rise into dross in the first pass. Impurities generally appear as small black dots in the cast. Gassing is different and appears as voids of varying sizes, though they are generally multiple small pin head ones. Large voids are generally caused by shrinkage when cooling too quickly, or from air trapped when pouring too slowly. A re-melt usually fixes it, as shown. Cheers Rob
Thanks 😂 Nice to know.
Great job Rob. Excellent idea to have two 4-way tool posts pre loaded with lathe tools. Saves time. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. Most of the time we use a few favourite/most useful turning tools, and the two four ways easily hold them all. One is for external and one for internal. I have a quick change tool post on the Schaublin, but it's no big advantage really. Do whatever floats your boat. The main reason I stuck with the four way on the 10" swing lathe is because it's the most rigid. Cheers Rob
Never ceases to amaze me that one the worlds largest producers of aluminum forces metal working hobbyists to use home-cast aluminum due to cost of the material @home.
That’s because we’re sending it all to China.
Well done Rob. 👍
Thanks Stewart. Saved some money there. Doing this makes metal project work very affordable, plus it's easy to re-melt your mistakes ;) Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Absolutely Rob 👍👍
Looking good Rob, and loving the work shirt by the way, right up my street on the colour spectrum 😂😂
Yep, gotta go with the times Jon. The tan work shirts I always wore are now pretty much replaced with the Hi-Vis ones. I suppose that's where the demand is now. Should make it easier for people to find me ;) Cheers Rob
Looks a good finish on the aluminium Rob.....Cheers Tony
Hi Tony. Yes, it came up pretty well. I roughed it up with a GP carbide insert (TCMT) and finished off with one made for aluminium. It's very dependent on cutter type and you need lube to prevent galling and feathering. HSS also works well. Cheers Rob
Good stuff rob 👍.
Liking the quick reach lathe back stop shield allen key arrangement - k o k o.
That works well. Very handy.
Nice job Rob 👍👍I know the aluminium we cast is from different sources but it looks like yours machines much the same as mine. I have found that to get the best finish a really slow feed is needed, go too fast and it will cut ok but the finish is crap. Always good to see a collet chuck in the tailstock 👍👍 Why more people don't do this is beyond me. The only Jacobs like chuck I use in the tailstock these days is a tiny 0-1/6" Albrecht, which is great for really small drill bits and taps. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan. Yes, you are getting good results. Once the technique is worked out it all comes together nicely. I use the finest feed rate for the finish cut and a really sharp edged cutter. This is where having a quick change gearbox is a must have. Also use kero/oil lube. Collet chucks are great in all of their configurations. It's puzzling why only a minority use them. Cheers Rob
That bright shirt damaged my eyes 🤣🍺
I've got a yellow one as well. That's even brighter. LOL
Always a bit there to take notice of, thankyou. Them safety freaks will always get you on something minor. hope your flashing light and reverse beeper is good, that's next. Been putting up with those so and so's for too long, earthmoving machine's. Thanks for your efforts, I have been having the same trouble with those pinholes too.
Ha Ha. I half expected to get repremanded for wearing a glove (it is an approved type). Regarding pinholes, try lowering the melt temperature to reduce gasing. Cheers Rob
Thanks mate, will do.@@Xynudu
Morning Rob. Excellent result. You are definitely inspiring me to cast my own aluminium billets. 👍😀
Hi Andrew. It turned out good on the second attempt. The quality of the aluminium used has a BIG effect on the outcome. Anyone can do this provided they stick to a few basic rules. Cheers Rob
G'day Rob. Nice piece of aluminum. Whatever happened to your shop lizard? Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold. Ralph abandoned ship. They move about quite a lot and don't always survive in suburbia due to dogs and cars etc. He was never going to make much of a machinist anyway. Didn't listen to a word I said. Cheers Rob