Great video! Just started this project on an identical Outback today! I have done a dozen or more of the older EJ25 auto motor pulls and transmission swaps.. threw me for a loop seeing the motor mounts where they were! I'm to the point now of removing the motor mounts, a couple bellhousing bolts and the Transmission crossmember and it should drop right out 🙏 Also, I was able to get a 3/8 ratchet with a shallow socket at the Torque converter bolts from underneath much easier than pulling that top plug on this newer Gen! Happy wrenchin 🤘
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project! I thought the same thing when I first encountered this setup!! I prefer the old style, myself! I don't like change!!!!!
One thing I'd add is if your replacement torque converter is marked 170, it's the original design with the lock-up mechanism that fails. Make sure you're putting a 171 or 172 converter in there so you don't have to rip it back apart.
Great video man, just one tip removing the throttle body give you a lot space to remove torque converter bolts with a ratchet and take the bolts and put it back with your hand
You can also get slightly better access to the top of the trans with the tb off, I was able to put it on a jack, lower it about 1/4 inch, and smack it a few times with a rubber mallet. The dowels just popped right out.
Great video Smitty! I have a 2012 Outback 2.5i Premium and my CVT started slipping about 2-1/2 to 3 years ago at about 133K and it is now at 155K. I have been driving in M (manual) with the paddle shifters since it started slipping and that eliminates the slipping since that takes it out of the "constantly variable" mode and I notice that if I drive it in Manual for 20 or so miles and when the transmission is good and warm then I can slide it into automatic D (drive) and it doesn't slip. I've been driving it for 22K miles that way with only an occasional slip in higher gear position, 4th and above, when it's still cold. I have no clue about these CVT things or how they work and you obviously do and I can't get any real answers in the NASIOC forum, some of those guys in there can be real tools, but I was wondering if what I have going on is just a faulty valve body and the whole CVT doesn't need to be replaced? That would be an easy fix LOL! Wishful thinking right? I know these 2012's have CVT issues and SOA was offering rebates way back when the issue started but I am way past that. Thanks again and regards, Rick
Slipping is usually due to fluid pressure issues. If it's been happening for a while, the variators will have wear spots prone to slipping even if the problem is corrected.
@@bryede It has been happening for 3.5 years only if I drive it in "D". I haven't been driving in automatic since it started, I have been driving in manual and it doesn't happen and it only happens during the first 15-20 miles until the transmission is warm and then driving in automatic doesn't produce the issue. Several people have said that CVT chains don't slip it's the clutch that causes the slippage and the main issue is a faulty valve body. As a matter of fact it has been recently learned that SOA knew that it is the valve body for a long time but has been telling dealerships to just replace the whole transmission!
Can the springs on the clutch side in subaru converters from cvt transmission get looser and make the car shiver when driving ? Fells like mine shivers in some driving situations !
If you do a search of "judder" or "shudder" you should find some info on that. "Traditional" automatic transmissions can develop this problem which is often linked to a converter issue. The CVT's are more often from an internal problem. I am definitely NOT a transmission expert, so due diligence on your part! Worse case, have it properly diagnosed by a transmission specialist!
Great video. What is the concern with leaving the battery off for an extended period? I occasionally need to leave my Outback in storage for several months and typically disconnect/remove the battery and have never noticed an issue apart from needing to reset the clock.
Thanks for watching! On some late model Subaru's (and other makes) it has the potential to wipe out the memory on the trans control unit, prompting a reporgram! Better safe than sorry!
Thanks! Taking a quick look at the 16' trans, it should be the same. Mounts are in the same place etc. Basically the same design, drivetrain. Best of luck to you!
Thanks bro. I’m a Chrysler tech I own a 2014. I still have to check if it’s still the same but I was wondering how to get the torque converter bolts out besides the poor opening at the bottom.
Great video! I have to do the same job, but my engine is already out so ot should be even easier. Qiestion, did the replacement transmission work out? Did you have to reset it or anything like that?
So, on this job, I used an adapter that back feeds power into the OBD daig connector to save the “memory” in the ECU. The used trans worked like a charm!
Excellent video! I have just finished the TC exchange, however I removed the engine to get access. Now I put everything together, the Outback starts fine but the TC is not filling CVT oil from the transmission, CVT oil remains cold according to subaru select monitor. It seems to me the transmission oil pump is not driven by the TC. I double checked the TC and it was right on its place inside the bellhousing. How van I figure out the pump is ok or not? thx
Sounds like the TC is not engaged fully into the front pump. There are basically two "steps" for it to engage correctly, assuming it has been removed, etc. As you rotate the converter, while pushing inward there should be two fairly distinct clunks as it engages. One and then continue turning/ pushing and then a second, inward motion and "clunk".
@SmittysShop Thank you, it helps a lot. I remove the engine again, and check it once more. As I saw TR690 CVT it is hard to break the oil pump, cause it is chain driven, so the chain should break 1st or not? Can I identify somehow that the CVT pump is ok?
@@Tisza33 It's hard to say. You would have to remove the TC completely and look at the TC where it mates with the pump and then look inside the seal area and see if you see anything. If it's internal damage, there is no way of knowing without disassembly.
@@SmittysShop took the engine out, it took me only 2 hours🙂, the housing of a big chain wheel is broken, what holds the seeger ring, can be welded with aluminium. Oil pump is ok, I turned it with a drilling machine, and oil was coming out.
This is a superb video, it looks like being my next job, it will be very helpful. One question though, if the battery is left off a while, would the car drive without re programming? I ask because I just changed the lock up solenoid in my 2012 OB and all was well for almost 1K miles, then BANG. Howling from the trans and no drive. As I had no access to computers etc. I had just reassembled everything and run the car in fwd/rev with the wheels off the ground till the oil was at correct level and all seemed well until the above dilemma.
Thanks for watching! As far as the computer goes, it's difficult to say, for sure. My advice would be to jump on amazon and for under $20 you can grab an adapter to keep the ECU memory backed up. Better safe than sorry! Just search "ECU memory saver"
My 2011 outback just did this too. Took off from a stop sign, and then howling and no drive/reverse. Did you find out what failed? Just trying to figure out if I need a total replacement or if it's something simple
Thanks so much for the video. My tranny is developing a slip and will need to take this on…when your installing the new transmission back into the car and hook up the oil cooler lines, is there anything I need to know about that process? I know how to check ATF fluid level for the TR580. I am assuming you just flush the cooler, hook up the hoses, check ATF level, run the car to temp, then check level again and maybe top it off? The air in the lines will purge on their own?
Hi there, i just installed a jdm transmission for my 2014 subaru legacy but when it start, its making and screaching noise, then goes away. Also none of the gears engage. When putting in reverse or drive. Any help would be a blessing
@@dinoc8786 i’m sorry, but it’s real difficult to offer Any advice without seeing or hearing the car. Assuming you have the correct transmission fluid and is filled to the correct level, it sounds like you may have a bad unit. I’m sorry I wish I could give you more advice than that.
Great Video! Super helpful for getting the tranny out of my 2013 outback. Can I put in a transmission from a different year (as long as it's the same generation) without messing up the programing?
12-17 are compatible (tr580), however the 14-17 models have the tcm on top of the trans and you have to reuse the valve body cover off of your old transmission as well as your original tcm
Best bet is to really soak those alignment dowels with some lubricant and tap them with a punch to get them "free." Carefully pry on the lower end of the bell housing as well. Good luck!
Assuming you removed all 4 bolts from the converter, then the nose of the converter is stuck in the back of the crankshaft. Gently pry it from the crank being very careful because the converter is heavy!
@@NestorservingGod Yeah......I mean....it's doable on your back. We've all been there..... but, obviously, it would be a lot easier, faster, and even safer to do it on a lift if one is available! Good luck to ya!
@@evraldmombo6655 Oh, it’s been a bit since I did that job but I think in the 3k range! A lot of variables on a job like that. How much was the used transmission? What kind of warranty will the customer opt for. How much is factory fluid? What is the shop charging labor rate wise, etc! Thanks for asking!
There are several brands of trans cooler flush you can use. They typically come in a spray can with an attached hose that connects directly into the cooling hose. Leave the other end facing towards a drain bucket. I will usually use the entire can to ensure good results. You should be able to pick up a can at your local parts store! Good luck!
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for anyone who needs to tackle this job ,this video is gold. great explanations, good view of what needs to be done. well done, sir.
Thanks! I appreciate your comment!!
Great video! Just started this project on an identical Outback today! I have done a dozen or more of the older EJ25 auto motor pulls and transmission swaps.. threw me for a loop seeing the motor mounts where they were! I'm to the point now of removing the motor mounts, a couple bellhousing bolts and the Transmission crossmember and it should drop right out 🙏
Also, I was able to get a 3/8 ratchet with a shallow socket at the Torque converter bolts from underneath much easier than pulling that top plug on this newer Gen!
Happy wrenchin 🤘
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project! I thought the same thing when I first encountered this setup!! I prefer the old style, myself! I don't like change!!!!!
Thanks for video. I tap on dowels with a long punch. Move them forward a eighth inch. Helps them to release immensely.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video . Good pace & delivery. Who cares about a little focus. Reinforced my belief that I could do this, just not in a snowbank.
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
I just wanted to say, thank you. I could not find that service plug. Glad i found your video.
One thing I'd add is if your replacement torque converter is marked 170, it's the original design with the lock-up mechanism that fails. Make sure you're putting a 171 or 172 converter in there so you don't have to rip it back apart.
Thank you!
your vid saved a sister 2012 from the yard. thanks
Great video man, just one tip removing the throttle body give you a lot space to remove torque converter bolts with a ratchet and take the bolts and put it back with your hand
Great tip! Thanks!
You can also get slightly better access to the top of the trans with the tb off, I was able to put it on a jack, lower it about 1/4 inch, and smack it a few times with a rubber mallet. The dowels just popped right out.
Thanks! Your video inspired me to take on this project. I’ll try to follow up when it is successful and I’ve saved a friend’s car from the junk yard 😊
Thant's awesome Matt! If I can do it, so can you! Hit me up if I can help at all!
Great video Smitty! I have a 2012 Outback 2.5i Premium and my CVT started slipping about 2-1/2 to 3 years ago at about 133K and it is now at 155K. I have been driving in M (manual) with the paddle shifters since it started slipping and that eliminates the slipping since that takes it out of the "constantly variable" mode and I notice that if I drive it in Manual for 20 or so miles and when the transmission is good and warm then I can slide it into automatic D (drive) and it doesn't slip. I've been driving it for 22K miles that way with only an occasional slip in higher gear position, 4th and above, when it's still cold. I have no clue about these CVT things or how they work and you obviously do and I can't get any real answers in the NASIOC forum, some of those guys in there can be real tools, but I was wondering if what I have going on is just a faulty valve body and the whole CVT doesn't need to be replaced? That would be an easy fix LOL! Wishful thinking right? I know these 2012's have CVT issues and SOA was offering rebates way back when the issue started but I am way past that. Thanks again and regards, Rick
Slipping is usually due to fluid pressure issues. If it's been happening for a while, the variators will have wear spots prone to slipping even if the problem is corrected.
@@bryede It has been happening for 3.5 years only if I drive it in "D". I haven't been driving in automatic since it started, I have been driving in manual and it doesn't happen and it only happens during the first 15-20 miles until the transmission is warm and then driving in automatic doesn't produce the issue. Several people have said that CVT chains don't slip it's the clutch that causes the slippage and the main issue is a faulty valve body. As a matter of fact it has been recently learned that SOA knew that it is the valve body for a long time but has been telling dealerships to just replace the whole transmission!
thank youuu!!! saved me a lot of time. Great video
Glad it helped!
Can the springs on the clutch side in subaru converters from cvt transmission get looser and make the car shiver when driving ? Fells like mine shivers in some driving situations !
If you do a search of "judder" or "shudder" you should find some info on that. "Traditional" automatic transmissions can develop this problem which is often linked to a converter issue. The CVT's are more often from an internal problem. I am definitely NOT a transmission expert, so due diligence on your part! Worse case, have it properly diagnosed by a transmission specialist!
Great video. What is the concern with leaving the battery off for an extended period? I occasionally need to leave my Outback in storage for several months and typically disconnect/remove the battery and have never noticed an issue apart from needing to reset the clock.
Thanks for watching! On some late model Subaru's (and other makes) it has the potential to wipe out the memory on the trans control unit, prompting a reporgram! Better safe than sorry!
About to do this Friday/ Saturday. Thank you so so so so so much
Hope it helps! Good luck to you!
@@SmittysShop hey thank you smitty! When you install a old transmission. Do you need to fill the torque converter
@@CamperPrius There is always "trapped" fluid in the converter but I have never specifically added fluid directly to the converter on a used unit!
@@SmittysShop okay! Awesome. Transmission is in. I did add fluid into the torque converter!
Again thank you very much.
Excellent video. What was the problem and or symptoms with the old transmission?
Thanks for watching! This one had excess noise/ slipping and limited (none, when hot) movement in either direction!
Is the CVT removal for the 2016 outback any different?
Great video - to the point and seems to cover the important stuff.
Thanks! Taking a quick look at the 16' trans, it should be the same. Mounts are in the same place etc. Basically the same design, drivetrain. Best of luck to you!
Thanks bro. I’m a Chrysler tech I own a 2014. I still have to check if it’s still the same but I was wondering how to get the torque converter bolts out besides the poor opening at the bottom.
Yep! They come out of the poor opening at the top!!!
Badass video. You're a life saver
Glad it helped! Thanks!
Just watching this video…. Thanks for posting it. Have you done a 2020 crosstrek?
I have not but I wouldn't anticipate it being much different than this!
Great video! I have to do the same job, but my engine is already out so ot should be even easier. Qiestion, did the replacement transmission work out? Did you have to reset it or anything like that?
So, on this job, I used an adapter that back feeds power into the OBD daig connector to save the “memory” in the ECU. The used trans worked like a charm!
Excellent video! I have just finished the TC exchange, however I removed the engine to get access. Now I put everything together, the Outback starts fine but the TC is not filling CVT oil from the transmission, CVT oil remains cold according to subaru select monitor. It seems to me the transmission oil pump is not driven by the TC. I double checked the TC and it was right on its place inside the bellhousing. How van I figure out the pump is ok or not? thx
Sounds like the TC is not engaged fully into the front pump. There are basically two "steps" for it to engage correctly, assuming it has been removed, etc. As you rotate the converter, while pushing inward there should be two fairly distinct clunks as it engages. One and then continue turning/ pushing and then a second, inward motion and "clunk".
@SmittysShop Thank you, it helps a lot. I remove the engine again, and check it once more. As I saw TR690 CVT it is hard to break the oil pump, cause it is chain driven, so the chain should break 1st or not? Can I identify somehow that the CVT pump is ok?
@@Tisza33 It's hard to say. You would have to remove the TC completely and look at the TC where it mates with the pump and then look inside the seal area and see if you see anything. If it's internal damage, there is no way of knowing without disassembly.
@@SmittysShop took the engine out, it took me only 2 hours🙂, the housing of a big chain wheel is broken, what holds the seeger ring, can be welded with aluminium. Oil pump is ok, I turned it with a drilling machine, and oil was coming out.
This is a superb video, it looks like being my next job, it will be very helpful. One question though, if the battery is left off a while, would the car drive without re programming?
I ask because I just changed the lock up solenoid in my 2012 OB and all was well for almost 1K miles, then BANG. Howling from the trans and no drive. As I had no access to computers etc. I had just reassembled everything and run the car in fwd/rev with the wheels off the ground till the oil was at correct level and all seemed well until the above dilemma.
Thanks for watching! As far as the computer goes, it's difficult to say, for sure. My advice would be to jump on amazon and for under $20 you can grab an adapter to keep the ECU memory backed up. Better safe than sorry! Just search "ECU memory saver"
My 2011 outback just did this too. Took off from a stop sign, and then howling and no drive/reverse. Did you find out what failed? Just trying to figure out if I need a total replacement or if it's something simple
yup 12mm fell into the bottom.. needed to unbolt 3 bolts and pry open up the TC again :(
I've been there! I can totally relate!
Would this be better to replace the torque converter over pulling the motor?
Any recommendations on where to purchase a transmission for a 2010 outback?
Thanks so much for the video. My tranny is developing a slip and will need to take this on…when your installing the new transmission back into the car and hook up the oil cooler lines, is there anything I need to know about that process? I know how to check ATF fluid level for the TR580. I am assuming you just flush the cooler, hook up the hoses, check ATF level, run the car to temp, then check level again and maybe top it off? The air in the lines will purge on their own?
Yes! No worry about air in lines etc. You got this!! 💪
Hi there, i just installed a jdm transmission for my 2014 subaru legacy but when it start, its making and screaching noise, then goes away. Also none of the gears engage. When putting in reverse or drive. Any help would be a blessing
@@dinoc8786 i’m sorry, but it’s real difficult to offer Any advice without seeing or hearing the car. Assuming you have the correct transmission fluid and is filled to the correct level, it sounds like you may have a bad unit. I’m sorry I wish I could give you more advice than that.
Is a removal from a 2012 legacy any different since they are basically the same car?
To my knowledge, yes. Basically the same car!
Great Video! Super helpful for getting the tranny out of my 2013 outback. Can I put in a transmission from a different year (as long as it's the same generation) without messing up the programing?
Only certain years are compatible. Your local junk yard should be able to point you in the right direction!
12-17 are compatible (tr580), however the 14-17 models have the tcm on top of the trans and you have to reuse the valve body cover off of your old transmission as well as your original tcm
@@elky82where can I read up more on this
Where is a good spot to pry to get the engine from the transmission
Best bet is to really soak those alignment dowels with some lubricant and tap them with a punch to get them "free." Carefully pry on the lower end of the bell housing as well. Good luck!
My torque converter stayed on the engine! Any suggestions?
Assuming you removed all 4 bolts from the converter, then the nose of the converter is stuck in the back of the crankshaft. Gently pry it from the crank being very careful because the converter is heavy!
I'm getting ready to do this on a 2015 Forester. Is the Forester trans removal pretty much the same?
It is, indeed!
What fluid do you suggest
I have a very strict rule at the shop, ESPECIALLY for CVT transmissions...... Factory fluid only! Get some genuine Subaru CVT Fluid!
was this AWD???
It sure was!
What about a 2013 Subaru outback cvt transmission?
Most 4cyl Subarus share the same drivetrain and the process should be very similar!
@@SmittysShop should I use rhino ramps or you suggest lifting her up?
@@NestorservingGod Yeah......I mean....it's doable on your back. We've all been there..... but, obviously, it would be a lot easier, faster, and even safer to do it on a lift if one is available! Good luck to ya!
Safety first! 💪🏼
How much did that cost???
@@evraldmombo6655 Oh, it’s been a bit since I did that job but I think in the 3k range! A lot of variables on a job like that. How much was the used transmission? What kind of warranty will the customer opt for. How much is factory fluid?
What is the shop charging labor rate wise, etc! Thanks for asking!
How do i flush the rest of old fluid out of the trans cooler ?
There are several brands of trans cooler flush you can use. They typically come in a spray can with an attached hose that connects directly into the cooling hose. Leave the other end facing towards a drain bucket. I will usually use the entire can to ensure good results. You should be able to pick up a can at your local parts store! Good luck!
Merci beaucoup. Très belle vidéo.
Je vous en prie !
@@SmittysShop 6 hours. Now rebuilt 🙂
Good 👍
Ill try it now
Think you for you contribución to the channel it helped me a lot 😅.
camera work 0/10. step it up bud
I think that's a bit unfair. May not be a 10, but definitely not a zero. Overall, I would say it's a 6 or 7. Some great shots, some bad shots.