Man you were not lying about the blue jeans I leather stropped then cardboard with buffing compound. Super sharp. stropped each bevel 50 strokes with blue jeans..STUPID SHARP! I think it’s because those microscopic burr pieces fall right in the crevices of the denim. Thank you!!!
@@SamkoTradBow Thank you. By the way I got those Baffin Titan boots years ago when you made that video and I STILL have not found a better boot for me since the old Lacrosse boots aren’t the same. And I’m in Wisconsin. Thanks again.
A file is great to set the bevels. Still very important to hit them with a rod or stone and strop them. But file is all you need for main bevel setting and creating a bur
This is the most refreshing broadhead and knife sharpening video out there now! I can’t stand the thought of using 10 different coarses of sand paper or stones and spending 30 minutes of sharpening one head just to achieve a level of sharpness that your not happy with.
DUDE! Thank you so much for this video I took one thing away that made me realized why I am always flipping the burr over but never knocking it off...I'm dragging away the same way I do for my cutting edge(single bevel). When you said drag INTO the blade it all clicked and I cant wait to go home and hone my edges the right way!
I have a field sharpening kit in my arrow case with file ceramic rod and leather strop and denim. About once a week or every 10 days I re strop the heads to make sure they are still all good. That's really all that is needed. About mid way theu the season I will swap out all my quiver arrows for new ones so they are all fresh are sharp. Then when I have time I will rod and strop the ones I pulled out of the quiver.
LMAOOO!!!!! It’s like a tootsie pop LOL I had to change my shirt because I spit coffee all over myself! I just discovered this guy about a month ago. I’ve found myself binge watching his videos during a recent bout of insomnia. I love this guy! I agree completely with this sharpening technique. This is exactly how I do it with the exception of the denim. I’ll be trying that today! Thanks for the tip, Jason!
That's a 25 degree bevel. Pretty standard on single bevel heads. 3:1 heads are great heads too. But I prefer a bigger hole. So I dont use 3:1. And question would be why were you advised. Are you shooting super light weight?
@@SamkoTradBow my total arrow weight is 470 but I’ve just re-tuned to a arrow weight of 515, that’s out of 50lbs recurve. Up front I currently use a 125g tusker spirit with 120g insert. I’ve only been shooting trad for 4 months, had quite a few kills with this setup on goats but re evaluating for deer.
@@mattsmith2051 515 grains out of 50 pounds will blow any broadhead thru any animal. Find a broadhead you like and run it. 2 blade, 3 blade, wide, narrow, 3:1, etc. They will all work great for you. Personally I like a wide 2 blade. And I shoot 57 pounds out of a hill style longbow with a 25.5 in draw. So I bet with my slow speeds I'm probably shooting about same effect you are. I've killed almost 200 big game animals deer, bear, hogs, caribou etc with a 1.5 wide 2 blade. So your set up will work great with any head you choose.
@@SamkoTradBow thanks heaps for the feedback. I recently learnt after placing it on a scale that the bow made 53lbs at 28 and I also learnt that my draw wasn’t as long as I thought it to be! I’m unfortunately only pulling 26inch so probably only producing 48-49lbs at full draw. I hope I’m able to get a little more as I grow stronger and perfect my release a bit more. I like the 2 blade tusker spirit, very robust and I already had a stack of them from compound 🤣 But I will use a wider blade if I run into issues like the Aztec to increase cutting diameter and create better blood trails on bigger deer.
Yes Sir. Nicholson file, ceramic rod, cardboard. Love when I go to camp and friends and family pull out their sharping gadgets. Then I do this . Great job again on Traditional Simplicity.
never could get anything sharp with those. tried a few different brands over the years. they do ok. but not as sharp as i want them. But great for a pocket knife or kithcen knives where razor sharp isnt as important.
Definitely multiple levels of sharp. There is adequate sharp, dang sharp, and holy crap sharp. I favor carbon simply because so much easier to sharpen. Also much more affordable.
Agree 100% I can get carbon sharp on a level that I can not get the wonder steels too by hand. If I was ever going to enter a sharpness test I'd be bringing 1095 personally. But with practice you can still get the new steels very very sharp. Not carbon sharp but more than sharp enough.
@@SamkoTradBow Yes the Blade Tool Steels or Cabon are the easiest to get sharp and stay this way, reason why axe bits are the Blade Tool Steels or the Carbon.
Yep thats the whole point of it. Don't over complicate it. Make a bur on one side. Flip and make a bur on other side. The remove bur and lightly sharpen then strop
Obviously Jason your not fileing unless you put one through animal or bareying in ground damaging it a bit, other than that just cardboard, then blue jeans, to keep scary sharp, right?
Correct. Only time I use a file is if I have to fix damage or reset the bevel. And most of the time after padding thru and animal or hitting dirt I just need a few licks on the ceramic rod then strop to be perfect again.
How often do you replace the ceramic rod? Or do you have to do anything to maintain it? Also wondering how often you replace the denim if at all. Thanks! Super helpful video
The ceramic rod lasts a long time, like years unless you chip or ding it. But it's round so even if you do just spin it a bit. Bit I've never worn one out. The denim I replace as needed with the legs off old jeans about every 2 years I wear one out
Nice video brother....I know you but the file only sharpens with the forward push not the backyards stroke..the backwards stroke just dulls the file faster you can be more proficient with just forward strokes...plz dont take this as criticism bc ive learned so much from you about trad was just trying to help you out...which is isn't much bc you have done everything I ever hope to and then some ...God bless brother amd stay safe
Yep you are 100% correct. Reason I go both ways is because it's fast and let's me maintain the same angle easier. Rather than lifting and reseting for forward stroke only. You are also correct it does eventually dull the file. But they are 10 bucks and I buy a new one every summer as a habit. Also appreciate the kind words and any criticism or suggestions or thoughts or help or better ways to do something welcome anytime!
@@SamkoTradBow i heard that brother....like you always say do what works for you. And as always that fact stands true....im gonna give it a go next...im a chef and I can feel you on the kitchen knives...ive got a good bit of stones and plates and strops just like you I realized you can get the almost same results with way less....thanks for being a fountain of knowledge and thank you for giving it out for free..I feel guilty learning what I have from you...I just started trad couple months ago with a 40# black hunter as a starter ive watched your channel weeks before I even let one fly just working on my form and grip before I worry about tuning
I have found that if the knife can go through corrugated cardboard pushing/minimal sawing that is like cutting though tough hide on deer. I have stropped for years with cardboard; this seems to be the best over denim and leather as the corrugated structure is the best for the structure. I use an old Dimond stick from Swiss brand Victorinox for most of my light sharpening, this I got from work where I am in a Middle school kitchen, the handle fell off a cheaper end model (the handle is the part they cut cost on), so they were going to get rid of it and I took it home for free, but before that I have had only a pocket sharpener that I now use first due to it being a rougher for emergency field sharpening of stuff. Before I had to go harder on the pocket sharpener then went less rough on it to finish off. I only use the rougher one if I need to for the blade depending on how unsharp the blade was and fact the Dimond stick has a slightly rougher side and less rough side. Clay Hays on his channel has used a flat rock in emergencies demonstrated how he has used one, he left his pocket sharpener at camp or at home and needed it for his broadheads and used a rock, not to mention on Show Alone he used a good flat rock to sharpen his blades due to only having 9 items allowed.
Yep. But denim is a final stropping to be done after the cardboard. It works amazing. Sharpen, the strop on cardboard, then strop on denim. The results are amazing
I'm a bit confused is there a different kinds of sharp I mean shaving Sharp and cutting paper sharp with little or no effort that's about as sharp as it gets I don't understand the type of sharp you're talking about. I mean as far as I know sharp is sharp
Yes there is different types of sharp. Paper and shaving are great but they are push cutting and a good start. But I want blades that can cur rubber bands with little pressure. Arteries are like rubber bands. And I have seen and sharpened my own blades to mirror finish wicked sharp edges that would cut a whole sheet of paper in have in one stroke, yet would not cut a rubber band very well. Those mirror finished edges also disappointed me som many times on my edc knives. So much work and pride yet open 4 amazon boxes and they are dull. So for me and what I want the rubber band test is the best. I use coarse bevel setting followed by a ceramic rod the lightly sharpen and then strop. They last longer and perform great. There is nothing wrong with push sharp. But I prefer the way I do it and testing on rubber.
Fred Bear always carried a file and stone with his knife sheath to sharpen his knife and broadheads of the carbon steel variety and killed plenty of game in his lifetime. And "primative" trad bowenters are harvesting game with stone heads they knap with a stone or anteler that are as sharp as any head out there. I carry an old "Bear Cutmaster" a tiny sharpener circulation 1960's to touch my broadheads, and pruners. My old "Gerber" folding hunter '77 i use the Arkansas stones. Part of the Traditional Bowhunting life for me at least, is preparation, making arrows and yes sharpening knives and arrowheads as well as hunting. I learned the value of a sharp knife when I got my 1st deer in '74 and started to field dress and my cheap belt knife wouldn't even cut the hide. My buddy wiped out his Marine issue Kbar knife and we proceeded to finish the task. Later in the camper with the knife cleaned up he demonstrated the sharpeness by shaving hair on his arm having not touched up the blade. I'll take the old carbon steel broadheads anyday, quicker to sharpen and a little Vaseline keeps the rust down.😉
I never understood why bow hunters are so concerned with super sharp broadheads. A butter knife would cut the hell out of u coming from a bow but this video just proved me wrong. Rubber band test. Makes sense. Keep on making these videos! We learn a bunch.
Greatly appreciate this comment. Yep big difference between pushing a broadhead thru elastic material and cutting the elastic material. And glad you are enjoying the videos.
You broke the internet with your simple straightforward message. Keyboards exploding nationwide. Love it😂
🤣🤣glad you enjoyed it
Your so straightforward man and you know so much thanks for your vids .
Thank you. Glad you are enjoying them
Thanks man
You're welcome!
Great video! I’m one of the guys who over think it! Lol This video is really helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it
Just now finally watching this. Awesome video Jason.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
Man you were not lying about the blue jeans I leather stropped then cardboard with buffing compound. Super sharp. stropped each bevel 50 strokes with blue jeans..STUPID SHARP! I think it’s because those microscopic burr pieces fall right in the crevices of the denim. Thank you!!!
Yep sure does make a huge difference!
@@SamkoTradBow Thank you. By the way I got those Baffin Titan boots years ago when you made that video and I STILL have not found a better boot for me since the old Lacrosse boots aren’t the same. And I’m in Wisconsin. Thanks again.
Finally now I feel ok for using a file to sharping everything over the last few years !
A file is great to set the bevels. Still very important to hit them with a rod or stone and strop them. But file is all you need for main bevel setting and creating a bur
This is the most refreshing broadhead and knife sharpening video out there now! I can’t stand the thought of using 10 different coarses of sand paper or stones and spending 30 minutes of sharpening one head just to achieve a level of sharpness that your not happy with.
Glad you enjoyed it. You are the first to see this. It's not even published yet! You must of caught it in a playlist.
Yeah I was going to rewatch the ace beam h30 headlamp video because mine just got delivered and I saw this video in the product review playlist.
@@NoahOakleyHunting that acebeam is awesome
It really is, my jaw hit the ground when I turned it on in my backyard last night. It made it look like daytime.
DUDE! Thank you so much for this video I took one thing away that made me realized why I am always flipping the burr over but never knocking it off...I'm dragging away the same way I do for my cutting edge(single bevel). When you said drag INTO the blade it all clicked and I cant wait to go home and hone my edges the right way!
Glad you enjoyed it. Let me know how it works for ya
This is actually the best broadhead sharpening video I’ve EVER watched. Thank you Jason!
Glad you enjoyed it
Hay Jason if your hunting multiple days, what are you doing for touch ups, and how many days? Thanks for the excellent video 👊
I have a field sharpening kit in my arrow case with file ceramic rod and leather strop and denim. About once a week or every 10 days I re strop the heads to make sure they are still all good. That's really all that is needed. About mid way theu the season I will swap out all my quiver arrows for new ones so they are all fresh are sharp. Then when I have time I will rod and strop the ones I pulled out of the quiver.
@tradbowpodcast thank you sir, good stuff 👍
A file and smooth piece of sand paper .
Yep sandpaper works fantastic
LMAOOO!!!!!
It’s like a tootsie pop LOL
I had to change my shirt because I spit coffee all over myself!
I just discovered this guy about a month ago. I’ve found myself binge watching his videos during a recent bout of insomnia. I love this guy!
I agree completely with this sharpening technique. This is exactly how I do it with the exception of the denim. I’ll be trying that today!
Thanks for the tip, Jason!
🤣🤣 glad you are enjoying the videos
I see you've been using the hair on your head too .
🤣🤣
That’s quite a steep blade angle, I’d been advised to use a 3 to 1 blade? It’s not relevant in regards to cutting drag etc?
That's a 25 degree bevel. Pretty standard on single bevel heads. 3:1 heads are great heads too. But I prefer a bigger hole. So I dont use 3:1. And question would be why were you advised. Are you shooting super light weight?
@@SamkoTradBow my total arrow weight is 470 but I’ve just re-tuned to a arrow weight of 515, that’s out of 50lbs recurve. Up front I currently use a 125g tusker spirit with 120g insert. I’ve only been shooting trad for 4 months, had quite a few kills with this setup on goats but re evaluating for deer.
@@mattsmith2051 515 grains out of 50 pounds will blow any broadhead thru any animal. Find a broadhead you like and run it. 2 blade, 3 blade, wide, narrow, 3:1, etc. They will all work great for you. Personally I like a wide 2 blade. And I shoot 57 pounds out of a hill style longbow with a 25.5 in draw. So I bet with my slow speeds I'm probably shooting about same effect you are. I've killed almost 200 big game animals deer, bear, hogs, caribou etc with a 1.5 wide 2 blade. So your set up will work great with any head you choose.
@@SamkoTradBow thanks heaps for the feedback. I recently learnt after placing it on a scale that the bow made 53lbs at 28 and I also learnt that my draw wasn’t as long as I thought it to be! I’m unfortunately only pulling 26inch so probably only producing 48-49lbs at full draw. I hope I’m able to get a little more as I grow stronger and perfect my release a bit more. I like the 2 blade tusker spirit, very robust and I already had a stack of them from compound 🤣 But I will use a wider blade if I run into issues like the Aztec to increase cutting diameter and create better blood trails on bigger deer.
Yes Sir. Nicholson file, ceramic rod, cardboard. Love when I go to camp and friends and family pull out their sharping gadgets. Then I do this . Great job again on Traditional Simplicity.
Yep same here. Simple works perfect
That shirt is Sick Bro.
🤣
Thanks
Are there different types of bastard files? Or just one type?
Think they are all pretty much the same as far as I know
Great video Jason, and love the shirt too brotha lol
Thanks. Clearance somewhere for 3 bucks. I love the shirt. Tina hates it, that makes me love it even more 🤣🤣
Denim has silica in it , it’s a fine abrasive
good to know. I had no idea why it worked so well. I do know. Thank you
Hey bud whats your thoughts on the sharpeners that three rivers has where you just pull your broadhead through it a few times
never could get anything sharp with those. tried a few different brands over the years. they do ok. but not as sharp as i want them. But great for a pocket knife or kithcen knives where razor sharp isnt as important.
Definitely multiple levels of sharp. There is adequate sharp, dang sharp, and holy crap sharp. I favor carbon simply because so much easier to sharpen. Also much more affordable.
Agree 100% I can get carbon sharp on a level that I can not get the wonder steels too by hand. If I was ever going to enter a sharpness test I'd be bringing 1095 personally. But with practice you can still get the new steels very very sharp. Not carbon sharp but more than sharp enough.
@@SamkoTradBow Yes the Blade Tool Steels or Cabon are the easiest to get sharp and stay this way, reason why axe bits are the Blade Tool Steels or the Carbon.
This is great. I need something simple to sharpen, cause all these "kits" I have I can't work right
Yep thats the whole point of it. Don't over complicate it. Make a bur on one side. Flip and make a bur on other side. The remove bur and lightly sharpen then strop
@@SamkoTradBow when you say flip to the other side you mean the opposite side edge right?
@@sarafayelawton652 correct. I explain it better with drawings in this video
ua-cam.com/video/1mhhjbhPdoo/v-deo.html
Obviously Jason your not fileing unless you put one through animal or bareying in ground damaging it a bit, other than that just cardboard, then blue jeans, to keep scary sharp, right?
Correct. Only time I use a file is if I have to fix damage or reset the bevel. And most of the time after padding thru and animal or hitting dirt I just need a few licks on the ceramic rod then strop to be perfect again.
Omg you ruined that head! It’s way to sharp now it’s going to cut everything it touches. 😂😂😂
Great video brother.
🤣🤣🤣 love it
How often do you replace the ceramic rod? Or do you have to do anything to maintain it? Also wondering how often you replace the denim if at all. Thanks! Super helpful video
The ceramic rod lasts a long time, like years unless you chip or ding it. But it's round so even if you do just spin it a bit. Bit I've never worn one out. The denim I replace as needed with the legs off old jeans about every 2 years I wear one out
Dig En the Shirt! 🤣🤣🤣
One of my favorite shirts
Nice video brother....I know you but the file only sharpens with the forward push not the backyards stroke..the backwards stroke just dulls the file faster you can be more proficient with just forward strokes...plz dont take this as criticism bc ive learned so much from you about trad was just trying to help you out...which is isn't much bc you have done everything I ever hope to and then some ...God bless brother amd stay safe
not to be too coarse but itll be fine
Yep you are 100% correct. Reason I go both ways is because it's fast and let's me maintain the same angle easier. Rather than lifting and reseting for forward stroke only. You are also correct it does eventually dull the file. But they are 10 bucks and I buy a new one every summer as a habit. Also appreciate the kind words and any criticism or suggestions or thoughts or help or better ways to do something welcome anytime!
@@anotheryoutuber_ 🤣 that's pretty slick right there!
@@SamkoTradBow i heard that brother....like you always say do what works for you. And as always that fact stands true....im gonna give it a go next...im a chef and I can feel you on the kitchen knives...ive got a good bit of stones and plates and strops just like you I realized you can get the almost same results with way less....thanks for being a fountain of knowledge and thank you for giving it out for free..I feel guilty learning what I have from you...I just started trad couple months ago with a 40# black hunter as a starter ive watched your channel weeks before I even let one fly just working on my form and grip before I worry about tuning
@@georgiamade892 awesome! The black hunter is such an amazing bow too! You are gonna love the world of traditional bowhunting!
I have found that if the knife can go through corrugated cardboard pushing/minimal sawing that is like cutting though tough hide on deer.
I have stropped for years with cardboard; this seems to be the best over denim and leather as the corrugated structure is the best for the structure. I use an old Dimond stick from Swiss brand Victorinox for most of my light sharpening, this I got from work where I am in a Middle school kitchen, the handle fell off a cheaper end model (the handle is the part they cut cost on), so they were going to get rid of it and I took it home for free, but before that I have had only a pocket sharpener that I now use first due to it being a rougher for emergency field sharpening of stuff. Before I had to go harder on the pocket sharpener then went less rough on it to finish off. I only use the rougher one if I need to for the blade depending on how unsharp the blade was and fact the Dimond stick has a slightly rougher side and less rough side.
Clay Hays on his channel has used a flat rock in emergencies demonstrated how he has used one, he left his pocket sharpener at camp or at home and needed it for his broadheads and used a rock, not to mention on Show Alone he used a good flat rock to sharpen his blades due to only having 9 items allowed.
Yep. But denim is a final stropping to be done after the cardboard. It works amazing. Sharpen, the strop on cardboard, then strop on denim. The results are amazing
I pretty sure Roman soldiers used a rock
I’m sure the Indians used rocks too
Trump 2024
I'm a bit confused is there a different kinds of sharp I mean shaving Sharp and cutting paper sharp with little or no effort that's about as sharp as it gets I don't understand the type of sharp you're talking about. I mean as far as I know sharp is sharp
Yes there is different types of sharp. Paper and shaving are great but they are push cutting and a good start. But I want blades that can cur rubber bands with little pressure. Arteries are like rubber bands. And I have seen and sharpened my own blades to mirror finish wicked sharp edges that would cut a whole sheet of paper in have in one stroke, yet would not cut a rubber band very well. Those mirror finished edges also disappointed me som many times on my edc knives. So much work and pride yet open 4 amazon boxes and they are dull. So for me and what I want the rubber band test is the best. I use coarse bevel setting followed by a ceramic rod the lightly sharpen and then strop. They last longer and perform great. There is nothing wrong with push sharp. But I prefer the way I do it and testing on rubber.
Fred Bear always carried a file and stone with his knife sheath to sharpen his knife and broadheads of the carbon steel variety and killed plenty of game in his lifetime. And "primative" trad bowenters are harvesting game with stone heads they knap with a stone or anteler that are as sharp as any head out there. I carry an old "Bear Cutmaster" a tiny sharpener circulation 1960's to touch my broadheads, and pruners. My old "Gerber" folding hunter '77 i use the Arkansas stones. Part of the Traditional Bowhunting life for me at least, is preparation, making arrows and yes sharpening knives and arrowheads as well as hunting. I learned the value of a sharp knife when I got my 1st deer in '74 and started to field dress and my cheap belt knife wouldn't even cut the hide. My buddy wiped out his Marine issue Kbar knife and we proceeded to finish the task. Later in the camper with the knife cleaned up he demonstrated the sharpeness by shaving hair on his arm having not touched up the blade. I'll take the old carbon steel broadheads anyday, quicker to sharpen and a little Vaseline keeps the rust down.😉
Yep sharp is vitally important and carbon is absolutely the easiest to get sharp fast.
I never understood why bow hunters are so concerned with super sharp broadheads. A butter knife would cut the hell out of u coming from a bow but this video just proved me wrong. Rubber band test. Makes sense. Keep on making these videos! We learn a bunch.
Greatly appreciate this comment. Yep big difference between pushing a broadhead thru elastic material and cutting the elastic material. And glad you are enjoying the videos.