This video randomly popped up and I really enjoyed it. I binge-watched all your other videos today and I have subscribed. I like your approach and video style. Keep up the good work.
People have to remember that these "classic" cars were worth next to nothing at some stage of their life's! So repairs done were super cheap. And done at home while they were learning to weld, on the other hand they should never have pasted a "proper mot inspection" that car has been a rust bucket for over 30 years and would have killed anyone inside if had ever been in an accident over 20 miles an hour as it would simply have exploded. I am not a couch critic, rather a retired mechanic having put up with a lifetime of dodgy home repairs
"The one that got away", looks like you would have been better leaving it than buying it back. Those are old repairs judging by that inner sill wall repair. I used to own a SWB 1974 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Series 2 back in 1989. Took for an MOT and the I knew the chap at the garage quite well. He said it was rotten on the inner sill where it meets the floor, he was right. When I went to collect the car he showed me the repair patch he had "welded" into the inner sill and floor. That repair on your MGB GT reminded me of that repair but mine was worse. One inch stitched every eight or ten inches apart, I was disappointed and questioned his bill of £850 (It was a lot in 1989). He told me it was to MOT regs spec and showed me the regs to prove it. When I got home, I reinspected the "repair" and swore no man, woman nor beast would ever weld a thing for me ever again. I went out and bought a mig welder and got an engineer mate of mine to teach me the basics. 34yrs later, I run a welding business and ALWAYS quote fair prices and Whatsapp my customers on the start, midpoint and finish so they have a record of the work carried out. That job, done by a garage in East Lancashire still haunts me to this day. There looks to be porosity in some of your welding. That is either contamination, not enough gas, too much gas or too far away with the torch? Great video young man apart from the music.
Thank you! Yes I can imagine it’s not nice to be let down my someone! I use a gasless mig welder so the flux comes out to the surface! But yes my welding would improve massively with some decent equipment 😂 and a few people have mentioned the music! Is it not to your taste or too loud? Or something else? What would you have preferred?
Many years ago now, we restored MG's and other cars, someone phoned up to ask if we did MOT standard welding, I replied that we did not! There was silence for few seconds then he said why and I added because we don't weld that badly! End of phone call.
Excellent progress, the sill area looks so much better all cleaned up and the repairs you added at the end of the video are very impressive. I had to smile at your tidying up of the garage. I spend most of last week cleaning up 30 years of rubbish in my garage after having a new door fitted . This revealed my MGB GT looks absolutely terrible , surface run , the Passenger side foot well rotted through and the sills not long for this world, I think I know what to do but it's going to hurt!
@@colinritchie1757 thank you Colin!! It’s never too late to fix it! Just one step at a time! Hopefully by the end of this series you will have a complete guide in how to do it!
@@HJRgarageI can't lie but your series is causing the juices to start flowing ..but since I stripped the car down 30 years ago.. and I now have a block of rust that looks like a BMC 1800 B series engine!
Just found your channel and really like the style of the videos. It’s insane that anyone ever thought making car bodies from mild steel was a good idea! It’s a tribute to guys like you that any of them survive at all!! Funnily enough I’ve been looking for a good BGT as I’ve always really liked them, but this video goes to show what horrors can lurk beneath seemingly smooth paintwork! Just out of interest, how much is a Heritage shell for one of these? Keep up the great work 👍
Go and get a rest! You’ve got all the fun of getting panel gaps and trim lines to get sorted on the horizon, you’ll need strength, patience and determination! Looking forward to the next chapter.
Watched from the start enjoyed every video from start to finish impressed with your enthusiasm and the detail you have recorded will be very helpful to many im sure. O by the way don't ditch the music enjoying that as well
I love the video series, I've replaced the sills, floors & jacking points too on my MGB roadster. Like you trying to fix the previous bodges was half the work. My recommendation would be to try the Silverline finger sander from Toolstation, it's slimmer, cheaper and better made. I've gone through three Black & Decker sanders and they just aren't fixable. I have problems finding good belts & can't recommend the Silverline ones, they seem to break at the join after a few minutes. If anyone knows of a reliable brand available in the UK please reply. I've just put in an order for the best rated Amazon ones, so will give them a try next. I repaired the front of the sill on the first side by drilling out all the spot welds but would recommend that at the front, just cut the new diaphragm top section & seem weld it to the scuttle/inner sill section provided it isn't rusty. It's not visible and will be at least as strong and I've never seen a diaphragm panel rotten to the very top. Be careful around the 'A' post , it's hard to clean up welds in the corner where the sill meets, if you have to replace the 90 degree section at the bottom of the post. Keep up the good work but please loose the music, as I have to keep muting & then have to go back for your narration.
That’s for the comment! Watch the next episodes I think you will find I have done a lot of what you say! The next few episodes have the music but my latest one I have changed it due to the feedback back I am getting! I am very new to this so just trying to figure it all out!
@@HJRgarage Thanks for your reply & I will be watching. I recently had cause to remove the outer sill from the car, as I was never happy with the door gap & I needed to do other work on the rear wing. Several things I noticed after replacing the sill 30 years ago: A good primer and hammerite followed by waxoyl eliminated the rot almost completely. As I was unhappy with the door gap, I also had to remove the diaphragm as well, as this makes up quite a bit of the strength. The only slight rust was at the rear, from the trap at the bottom of the rear wheel arch, (this may be where water is getting in between wing & sill), this cleaned up easily. The diaphragm, inner and outer sills were solid but despite my best efforts the waxoyl was very patchy, we didn't have borescopes in the 1980's, so it was a case of spray & hope. I had blocked the sill & castle section drains, so there was a good covering at the bottom. This did however result in steady drips from the sills on the first hot day, despite opening the sill drains after application. The area to watch is between the rear wing & the outer sill, this then breaks through the rear wing in front of the wheel arch because of the hammerite the outer sill behind the rear wing was fine. I replaced the lower halves of the rear wings first time I rebuilt the car & lead loaded the joint, which was still fine. This time I replaced the complete outer wings & eliminated the rust trap at the top where the ridged trim section & inner & outer parts of the rear outer wing meet, again I have lead loaded the join & I also think it looks better without the trim & I should be free of rust this time. I think that engine oil between the sill & wing might be the answer to stopping future rot & I have blocked the area in front of the inner rear wheel arch. waxoyl between the outer sill & rear wing just seemed to have bridged the gap & not protected the inside of the wing. I think the moisture wicks up from the bottom & this eventually leads to rust around the rear wheel arch. This time I have used hammerite on the inside of the rear wing as well, should last me out. The first rebuild was over 100,000 miles ago & apart from the rear wings, door bottom & around the front headlights there weren't any of the panels I needed to fix again, so you can generally keep rust at bay even on a daily driver, if you power-wash the underside regularly. Before returning the car to the road I want to fix the mud trap in front of the rear wheel on the inside by the battery boxes & fit some wing liners to the front. Hammerite on the floors and inside the wheel arches seems to have been enough protection but obviously there were a few stone chips, which easily cleaned up with a wire brush. Hopefully the body work is now done & I can continue with the mechanicals which should be basically fine. To anyone contemplating a rebuild I would suggest: 1) power wash the car first. 2) remove all the glass & trim & label any thing you remove. 3) If you can: build, borrow or buy a rotating device so you don't have to weld upside down; it also makes removing underseal & repainting much easier. In the 1980's I stripped the shell & laid it against the wall on tyres but rolling it over required a chain hoist & a strengthen roof beam. Keep up the good work, these cars are simple & anyone with a mechanical bent can learn to fix them, grinding the crankshaft & boring the engine was the only things I had to farm out. Check the gearbox oil regularly & fit a string to the dipstick to make it easier to remove. I'd also recommend using silicone brake fluid, fitting a solid state SU fuel pump, a stainless fuel tank, electronic ignition & a fuel filter.
Great video 👍 The old repairs are period correct 😅 but your approach to repairing it now is like a pro just cut out and prep and spend time lining up and panel gaps 😊
Interested to see you use a powerfile. I used to use one 30 years ago, much to the good natured derision of my friend who taught car body repair at the local college.
I admit I don't get the logic of making uneconomic repairs to these piles but I will admit the results can be visually appealing. There is a consignment shop near my home that is filled with these kinds of project cars. Most of the cars only sell for a fraction of the monetary investment that was put into them. It seems a shame really.
I've done 2 sill jobs like this, same conditions too. I understand your pains! A Porsche 911 of the same age is easier!. Great progress and it all looks superb. Grinding is the WORST part!
The GT should be heaps lighter without all those overlayed repair panels. It's looking like you've learnt a few lessons about opening up and panel removal from doing the right side, it does show, well done. ✅
It's the UK if we change engines it opens a can of worms about the "classic" status of the vehicle, tax ,mot (safety inspections),insurance and registration status
I was told to do that when I was working at a little Garage in Lancaster. It looked awful but got it through the MOT. Plus I was using Oxy/Acetylene and a Coat Hanger… then plaster on a thick coat of under seal…. that was just Wrong. This Lad is going is doing it right. Good job Mate.
Do you mean the string? It’s got a washer on the end and it’s at the exact point that when it hits the rear glass of my XJS I can close the garage door! Anything else is just the wind 😂
I have put a link to them below I’m assuming you mean the black ones 👍🏻 www.halfords.com/tools/garage-workshop/axle-stands-trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-4-tonne-magic-quick-lift-jack-stands-539422.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EGarage+Workshop%3EAxle+Stands+and+Trolley+Jacks-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EGarage+Workshop%3EAxle+Stands+&+Trolley+Jacks-_-539422&&_$ja=tsid:%7Ccid:17363835999%7Cagid:%7Ctid:%7Ccrid:%7Cnw:x%7Crnd:12916963463723915345%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:1006668&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrJx6wzBSQfLf_pUPDv-4j5YACmS&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxsm3BhDrARIsAMtVz6OEJkh3y53ifuxIXNVKUtmgQWxcSzlA2_uSAfbvommHCJ8c7LLJjFUaAr7UEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@HJRgarage, I meant your other welder that you had trouble with. The reason I'm asking is I use 0.8. There is a guy Dave @ Daves garage on UA-cam says for thin car bodies he recommended 0.6. He says anything more requires to much heat and it doesn't weld thin metal to good, blows holes etc.
@@malcolmchadwick4047 I use 0.6mm on that one! It welded ok it just wasn’t giving clean welds I think I was the wire feed and not getting clean current 👍🏻 cheers for watching!
So it already was a bit of a pig when you sold it? I mean it didn't suddenly rust over the last six years, clearly the person you sold it to had a few surprises themselves.
I take it that you are talking about Kurust or do you know of a better one. I have used Kurust on some small welding jobs for MOT purposes but don't really know if it does any good.
@@ianf397 yeah I think that's the stuff by hammerite it's a pinky milkshake color runny, yes it does work. They make a gel version but I'm not sure about that?? I don't know if it's as good as stop rust, I don't think you can get that anymore, but it seems to be the same except it hasn't got red oxide in it. it's not a paint it's a chemical reaction with oxide. do you own experiment find a piece of Rusty thin metal and brush it on and leave it outside check it every year and see.
@@jedi-mic Years ago I used some stuff called "Jenolite", which was a clear liquid that you brushed on and waited a few hours for the rust to turn black. The main active ingredient was Phosphoric acid. Recently I found that you can buy Phosphoric acid in bulk as "Milkstone remover" in farm supply shops. If you use a lot of this it is about £55 for 20 litres, or you can buy this online for about £20 for 5 litres. That is way cheaper than £8 for 250ml of Kurust !! I must add that I have not tried Milkstone remover yet.
Why have you cut the back wing half way down when the wing ends a long the top edge becos now you have chop a brand new wing to make it fit and create more work for your self
I do! But I get excited and forget 😂 that’s the ADHD! Luckily I still have the strength in the car much more and I would have had to fix some. Did you enjoy it? 🤷🏽♂️
Use por 15 as per instructions, it's supposed to be applied to bare metal!! If you apply a different paint first it will only act as a release agent
Por 15 is grossly underrated.. there are better products.
This video randomly popped up and I really enjoyed it. I binge-watched all your other videos today and I have subscribed. I like your approach and video style. Keep up the good work.
@@jeremy3998 thank you!!
It'll be a great feeling when it's done for sure. Looking good.
I can’t wait!!
People have to remember that these "classic" cars were worth next to nothing at some stage of their life's! So repairs done were super cheap. And done at home while they were learning to weld, on the other hand they should never have pasted a "proper mot inspection" that car has been a rust bucket for over 30 years and would have killed anyone inside if had ever been in an accident over 20 miles an hour as it would simply have exploded. I am not a couch critic, rather a retired mechanic having put up with a lifetime of dodgy home repairs
Did you enjoy the video? 🤷🏽♂️
The other way to look at it is that them repairs rough or not kept it on the road
Really enjoying the restoration. Looking forward to the continuation when you are feeling ready!
Thank you! The next episode is out at 19:00 tonight 👍🏻
Cracking job must you got to relish without the Bodger jobs no doubt the mg would’ve been broken up or scrapped. I deal with this owning 30 Vw beetles
Great progress. Satisfying seeing all the bodges removed. Good job.😁
Glad you enjoyed it!
"The one that got away", looks like you would have been better leaving it than buying it back. Those are old repairs judging by that inner sill wall repair. I used to own a SWB 1974 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Series 2 back in 1989. Took for an MOT and the I knew the chap at the garage quite well. He said it was rotten on the inner sill where it meets the floor, he was right. When I went to collect the car he showed me the repair patch he had "welded" into the inner sill and floor. That repair on your MGB GT reminded me of that repair but mine was worse. One inch stitched every eight or ten inches apart, I was disappointed and questioned his bill of £850 (It was a lot in 1989). He told me it was to MOT regs spec and showed me the regs to prove it.
When I got home, I reinspected the "repair" and swore no man, woman nor beast would ever weld a thing for me ever again. I went out and bought a mig welder and got an engineer mate of mine to teach me the basics. 34yrs later, I run a welding business and ALWAYS quote fair prices and Whatsapp my customers on the start, midpoint and finish so they have a record of the work carried out. That job, done by a garage in East Lancashire still haunts me to this day.
There looks to be porosity in some of your welding. That is either contamination, not enough gas, too much gas or too far away with the torch? Great video young man apart from the music.
Thank you! Yes I can imagine it’s not nice to be let down my someone! I use a gasless mig welder so the flux comes out to the surface! But yes my welding would improve massively with some decent equipment 😂 and a few people have mentioned the music! Is it not to your taste or too loud? Or something else? What would you have preferred?
Many years ago now, we restored MG's and other cars, someone phoned up to ask if we did MOT standard welding, I replied that we did not! There was silence for few seconds then he said why and I added because we don't weld that badly! End of phone call.
Amazing dedication to keep this project moving forward - bravo! 🙌
@@robbell4339 thank you for sticking with it!
Excellent progress, the sill area looks so much better all cleaned up and the repairs you added at the end of the video are very impressive.
I had to smile at your tidying up of the garage. I spend most of last week cleaning up 30 years of rubbish in my garage after having a new door fitted . This revealed my MGB GT looks absolutely terrible , surface run , the Passenger side foot well rotted through and the sills not long for this world, I think I know what to do but it's going to hurt!
@@colinritchie1757 thank you Colin!! It’s never too late to fix it! Just one step at a time! Hopefully by the end of this series you will have a complete guide in how to do it!
@@HJRgarageI can't lie but your series is causing the juices to start flowing ..but since I stripped the car down 30 years ago.. and I now have a block of rust that looks like a BMC 1800 B series engine!
One step at a time! Just do something, even if it’s sorting out your parts! And it might just get you going!
LOTS OF BOX SECTIONS ON THE MG CURRENTLY FIGHTING RUST ON MY E30.DID MY E21 6 YEARS AGO. RUST NEVER SLEEPS LOL
🤦♂️ yep!
More good work. Well done HJR you've shown plenty of determination on this difficult repair .
Glad you enjoyed it
You’re doing a good, thorough job. Great work! Great video creation and editing! Liked, subscribed!
Thank you I am trying my best, never done this before 😂
Just found your channel and really like the style of the videos. It’s insane that anyone ever thought making car bodies from mild steel was a good idea! It’s a tribute to guys like you that any of them survive at all!! Funnily enough I’ve been looking for a good BGT as I’ve always really liked them, but this video goes to show what horrors can lurk beneath seemingly smooth paintwork! Just out of interest, how much is a Heritage shell for one of these? Keep up the great work 👍
@@joparish1037 thanks!! Don’t let it put you off! They’re a great classic car! £14000 for a brand new shell 😬
Proper job, well done. I went through similar with my MG Midget. Rust repair takes forever to do properly.
You’re not wrong! 😂
Go and get a rest! You’ve got all the fun of getting panel gaps and trim lines to get sorted on the horizon, you’ll need strength, patience and determination! Looking forward to the next chapter.
I had a few days off after this video! Much needed! Thank you so much for watching!
Watched from the start enjoyed every video from start to finish impressed with your enthusiasm and the detail you have recorded will be very helpful to many im sure. O by the way don't ditch the music enjoying that as well
Thank you!! ☺️ that’s great to hear!
I love the video series, I've replaced the sills, floors & jacking points too on my MGB roadster. Like you trying to fix the previous bodges was half the work. My recommendation would be to try the Silverline finger sander from Toolstation, it's slimmer, cheaper and better made. I've gone through three Black & Decker sanders and they just aren't fixable. I have problems finding good belts & can't recommend the Silverline ones, they seem to break at the join after a few minutes. If anyone knows of a reliable brand available in the UK please reply. I've just put in an order for the best rated Amazon ones, so will give them a try next. I repaired the front of the sill on the first side by drilling out all the spot welds but would recommend that at the front, just cut the new diaphragm top section & seem weld it to the scuttle/inner sill section provided it isn't rusty. It's not visible and will be at least as strong and I've never seen a diaphragm panel rotten to the very top. Be careful around the 'A' post , it's hard to clean up welds in the corner where the sill meets, if you have to replace the 90 degree section at the bottom of the post.
Keep up the good work but please loose the music, as I have to keep muting & then have to go back for your narration.
That’s for the comment! Watch the next episodes I think you will find I have done a lot of what you say! The next few episodes have the music but my latest one I have changed it due to the feedback back I am getting! I am very new to this so just trying to figure it all out!
@@HJRgarage Thanks for your reply & I will be watching. I recently had cause to remove the outer sill from the car, as I was never happy with the door gap & I needed to do other work on the rear wing. Several things I noticed after replacing the sill 30 years ago: A good primer and hammerite followed by waxoyl eliminated the rot almost completely. As I was unhappy with the door gap, I also had to remove the diaphragm as well, as this makes up quite a bit of the strength. The only slight rust was at the rear, from the trap at the bottom of the rear wheel arch, (this may be where water is getting in between wing & sill), this cleaned up easily. The diaphragm, inner and outer sills were solid but despite my best efforts the waxoyl was very patchy, we didn't have borescopes in the 1980's, so it was a case of spray & hope. I had blocked the sill & castle section drains, so there was a good covering at the bottom. This did however result in steady drips from the sills on the first hot day, despite opening the sill drains after application. The area to watch is between the rear wing & the outer sill, this then breaks through the rear wing in front of the wheel arch because of the hammerite the outer sill behind the rear wing was fine.
I replaced the lower halves of the rear wings first time I rebuilt the car & lead loaded the joint, which was still fine. This time I replaced the complete outer wings & eliminated the rust trap at the top where the ridged trim section & inner & outer parts of the rear outer wing meet, again I have lead loaded the join & I also think it looks better without the trim & I should be free of rust this time.
I think that engine oil between the sill & wing might be the answer to stopping future rot & I have blocked the area in front of the inner rear wheel arch. waxoyl between the outer sill & rear wing just seemed to have bridged the gap & not protected the inside of the wing. I think the moisture wicks up from the bottom & this eventually leads to rust around the rear wheel arch.
This time I have used hammerite on the inside of the rear wing as well, should last me out. The first rebuild was over 100,000 miles ago & apart from the rear wings, door bottom & around the front headlights there weren't any of the panels I needed to fix again, so you can generally keep rust at bay even on a daily driver, if you power-wash the underside regularly.
Before returning the car to the road I want to fix the mud trap in front of the rear wheel on the inside by the battery boxes & fit some wing liners to the front. Hammerite on the floors and inside the wheel arches seems to have been enough protection but obviously there were a few stone chips, which easily cleaned up with a wire brush. Hopefully the body work is now done & I can continue with the mechanicals which should be basically fine.
To anyone contemplating a rebuild I would suggest: 1) power wash the car first. 2) remove all the glass & trim & label any thing you remove. 3) If you can: build, borrow or buy a rotating device so you don't have to weld upside down; it also makes removing underseal & repainting much easier. In the 1980's I stripped the shell & laid it against the wall on tyres but rolling it over required a chain hoist & a strengthen roof beam.
Keep up the good work, these cars are simple & anyone with a mechanical bent can learn to fix them, grinding the crankshaft & boring the engine was the only things I had to farm out. Check the gearbox oil regularly & fit a string to the dipstick to make it easier to remove. I'd also recommend using silicone brake fluid, fitting a solid state SU fuel pump, a stainless fuel tank, electronic ignition & a fuel filter.
Great video 👍 The old repairs are period correct 😅 but your approach to repairing it now is like a pro just cut out and prep and spend time lining up and panel gaps 😊
@@bigbird2100 thank you!! I feel more comfortable with it all now 😂
Interested to see you use a powerfile. I used to use one 30 years ago, much to the good natured derision of my friend who taught car body repair at the local college.
It’s a very useful tool no point making life harder for yourself!
Good progress, coming along well.
Thank you!! 🙏
Love these videos - very informative. 🙂
@@NB-ux5jy thank you for watching!!
Car is coming on really well you're doing a fantastic job with it wish I could get those results with my gasless welder.
Thanks! Turn the feed to 5 and up the power up and use short tacks with the welder👍🏻
Nice work. Loads done and it looks great 👍
Thank you!!
I admit I don't get the logic of making uneconomic repairs to these piles but I will admit the results can be visually appealing. There is a consignment shop near my home that is filled with these kinds of project cars. Most of the cars only sell for a fraction of the monetary investment that was put into them. It seems a shame really.
Excellent video, should last at least another 20 years!
That’s the plan! Thanks 🤩
I've done 2 sill jobs like this, same conditions too. I understand your pains! A Porsche 911 of the same age is easier!. Great progress and it all looks superb. Grinding is the WORST part!
@@911hillclimber your 100% correct 😂 thanks for watching
You might want to cover up the glass with all the grinding sparks, I made that mistake and it's an expensive one...😊
😂 I found that out on the passenger side 🤦♂️
Did a soft top one years ago , watch out for your door shuts 😬
@@brucerawsthorne1338 👍🏻👍🏻
Great work. Just one thing…I’d avoid POR15, it just flakes off over time. We use 2 part Epoxy Mastic which is miles better
I will look into it! Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
The GT should be heaps lighter without all those overlayed repair panels. It's looking like you've learnt a few lessons about opening up and panel removal from doing the right side, it does show, well done. ✅
Thank you! And yes it should!!
Great job.
Thanks!
👍nice work
Thanks 👍
Looks good. A small block chevrolet V6 might work well in that car.
Yes 👍🏻 I have not decided how much I am going to do to this yet! We will see!
It's the UK if we change engines it opens a can of worms about the "classic" status of the vehicle, tax ,mot (safety inspections),insurance and registration status
@@secretsquirrel6124 Same problem here in California. There should be some kind of workaround. Just sayin'.
I recall the days when people used to stove the old outer sill in with a lump hammer and weld a skill sill over the top
Very frustrating 😂
I was told to do that when I was working at a little Garage in Lancaster. It looked awful but got it through the MOT. Plus I was using Oxy/Acetylene and a Coat Hanger… then plaster on a thick coat of under seal…. that was just Wrong. This Lad is going is doing it right. Good job Mate.
If your cutting so much metal out you need to brace and remove all extra weight or it will deform the shell
I have the door braced. The rest of it should be fine 👍🏻
Somehow having the floor swept up makes the mg look less daunting lol
100%!!
a
All coming together, looks great. what does the rear spring hanger look like?
@@johnbird1385 it doesn’t look as bad as the passenger side but I am probably going to replace it anyway 👍🏻
What is in the ceiling in the beginning on the video? Something is up there moving
Do you mean the string? It’s got a washer on the end and it’s at the exact point that when it hits the rear glass of my XJS I can close the garage door! Anything else is just the wind 😂
Where did you get your black axle stands, with the safety pin?
I have put a link to them below I’m assuming you mean the black ones 👍🏻
www.halfords.com/tools/garage-workshop/axle-stands-trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-4-tonne-magic-quick-lift-jack-stands-539422.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EGarage+Workshop%3EAxle+Stands+and+Trolley+Jacks-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EGarage+Workshop%3EAxle+Stands+&+Trolley+Jacks-_-539422&&_$ja=tsid:%7Ccid:17363835999%7Cagid:%7Ctid:%7Ccrid:%7Cnw:x%7Crnd:12916963463723915345%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:1006668&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrJx6wzBSQfLf_pUPDv-4j5YACmS&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxsm3BhDrARIsAMtVz6OEJkh3y53ifuxIXNVKUtmgQWxcSzlA2_uSAfbvommHCJ8c7LLJjFUaAr7UEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yes, those are the ones. Thx
And folk ask ,
"why do you have trust issues"
Obvious now....
If a job is worth doing.. do it yourself.. and reskill if you have to
Exactly! Thanks for watching 👍🏻👍🏻
Just started watching the first episode and would like to continue watching but the music is too loud sorry.
I have changed it in the latest couple of videos 👍🏻
O dear that music!!
@@pqvkey changed it in the new video thanks to the comments 👍🏻
What size mig wire are you using on your gas mig 👍
It’s a gasless mig I’m using 0.9 with it 👍🏻
@HJRgarage, I meant your other welder that you had trouble with. The reason I'm asking is I use 0.8. There is a guy Dave @ Daves garage on UA-cam says for thin car bodies he recommended 0.6. He says anything more requires to much heat and it doesn't weld thin metal to good, blows holes etc.
@@HJRgarageI'm going to 0 6. You should watch him he is restoring a Mk1 Escort.
@@malcolmchadwick4047 I use 0.6mm on that one! It welded ok it just wasn’t giving clean welds I think I was the wire feed and not getting clean current 👍🏻 cheers for watching!
So it already was a bit of a pig when you sold it? I mean it didn't suddenly rust over the last six years, clearly the person you sold it to had a few surprises themselves.
@@bunning63 100% it hid it extremely well. He had no idea and neither did I! Someone had bodged it not long before I bought it obviously!
Good work but lose the music its shite.
Haha what makes you say that? Is it just not to your taste of music?
@@HJRgarage I don't like Alvin and the chipmunks for a start.😀
I agree it is painful, had to mute but couldn't hear you talking between the migraine inducing racket, but well done on the work you have done.
What type of music would you prefer I can try and find some!? However it’s quite difficult to find music without copyright issues 👍🏻
I don't understand why you don't use rust converter it's much better than any primer and it seeps into nooks and crannies much better than spraying
Maybe I will give that a go 👍🏻
I take it that you are talking about Kurust or do you know of a better one. I have used Kurust on some small welding jobs for MOT purposes but don't really know if it does any good.
@@ianf397 yeah I think that's the stuff by hammerite it's a pinky milkshake color runny, yes it does work. They make a gel version but I'm not sure about that?? I don't know if it's as good as stop rust, I don't think you can get that anymore, but it seems to be the same except it hasn't got red oxide in it. it's not a paint it's a chemical reaction with oxide. do you own experiment find a piece of Rusty thin metal and brush it on and leave it outside check it every year and see.
@@jedi-mic Years ago I used some stuff called "Jenolite", which was a clear liquid that you brushed on and waited a few hours for the rust to turn black. The main active ingredient was Phosphoric acid. Recently I found that you can buy Phosphoric acid in bulk as "Milkstone remover" in farm supply shops. If you use a lot of this it is about £55 for 20 litres, or you can buy this online for about £20 for 5 litres. That is way cheaper than £8 for 250ml of Kurust !! I must add that I have not tried Milkstone remover yet.
Why have you cut the back wing half way down when the wing ends a long the top edge becos now you have chop a brand new wing to make it fit and create more work for your self
Watch the latest episode to find out 👍🏻
Do you not believe in safety gloves? Remember integrity when you’re cutting so much out. Would suggest fixing some before you cut the rest away.
I do! But I get excited and forget 😂 that’s the ADHD! Luckily I still have the strength in the car much more and I would have had to fix some. Did you enjoy it? 🤷🏽♂️