Thanks for putting out this video man. You made it look so easy but it still took me 3 hours to figure out the 1st side. Once I got the hang of it the other side only took about 30 minutes. Thanks for filming.
This video did help me, I just finished the brakes on our 2012 Accord. One thing, use new clips, don't reuse them, they are one time use in most cases. The ones I took off were no way reusable. And here is another thing, if you order your brake pads from Honda, kicking myself now. I was told they come with everything I need to install the pads, WRONG! The little wire retainers were in there, but no clips! I called the local Honda dealer wonder WTF? The parts gal said, "You received the correct parts, there is nothing missing, those are extra". Extra? Like how much extra? She told me $14 EACH! That is $56 for one axle, that is more than I paid for the damn pads! And, they were on national backorder... And there is no way in Hell I was going to pay that, but I still wound up driving thirty miles to get a set, AutoZone, $4.79 for a rear set. I had to special order the front clips from Advance Auto, they will be here tomorrow, $18, unreal.
good job man. I can see you care about quality and do not just slap it together with out any lube. You use good discretion keeping the existing and broken in caliper shims. New hardware was not needed. Good video
Very good video, I had forgotten about the rear caliper needed to rotate the brake caliper piston clock-wise to recess it for clearance. I also found a tool for about $10 that hooks up to a socket wrench, vs. the full kit you showed, which was a bit more work, but still did the job for me. The kit you showed is also reasonable, for about $25 on Amazon, so maybe something to consider if you do a lot of rear brake jobs, but pretty rare event in my case. I also had to use an impact driver to get those pesky rotor screws out, which always seem to rust into the wheel. Video definitely was a relief in the middle of my job on that piston, lol. Keep on rocking bro!
Quick tip. Take some brake lube and put some on the flange of the wheel hub to help keep the rotor from seizing up the next time you go to do another brake job in the future.
Excellent video, but two additional tips: #1 If the rotor doesn't come off easily after the Phillips screws are removed, you have two options The first option is a hammer. The second is to use the two threaded holes in the rotor provided by the manufacturer. Using two 1" or longer metric bolts having the same thread size as the Phillips screws inserted into the threaded holes, tighten by turns until the rotor pops loose. #2 A light film of grease on those two washers will help keep them in place while reinstalling the caliper assemble (they tend to fall off easily).
Good video, does it make any difference if the brake pad wear indicator is pointing up or down. I just changed my front and read rotor and pads. Took me about 2 hours total.I really needed that long ratchet, though I might go an amazon get one. I think the oil pan plug use the 17mm also.
Great instructional video! Why does the piston need to be twisted when you compress it? Can't you just use a large "C" clamp to compress it like you can with the front brakes pistons?
Leek, what happens if you don't put those silver washers back in the caliper holder? Those keep dropping out every time I attempt to put the bolts back in. How do you keep them from dropping out? Really appreciate your videos. Have a blessed year.
The washer goes on the outer mating surface for the caliper and hub. Basically caliper to hub shim. Sometimes they stay on Sometimes they fall out when removing the caliper. This washer is mandatory or the rotors will be damaged
Can I put the same from rotor on the back for more breaking power !. I see the from brake is thicker than the rear brake which mean the front has more breaking power than the rear because the rotor is thicker and the pads grabs the totor faster than the rear pads on the rotors.
I use a 6"-8" screwdriver to compress the rear caliper by basically just putting the shaft against the flat part between the grooves and pressing while levering it clockwise. Worked fine for me. Didn't need to rent a tool. It gets the job done quick too. I noticed after i did the front and back brakes that the brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor. Like, you press the pedal and it brakes right away, but if you keep holding the pedal down it slowly falls again till it hits the floor. Does this happen w anyone else? My gf said that her new Honda accord did it too and that all accords do it. Is that ur guy's experience? I didn't touch the bleeder screws on the caliper.
Hey man, great video but in some other video, that guy put the washers in a different way...Im confused with that ...did he put them the right way ? or you put them the right way ?
He meant the Brake Pad Wear Indicators that are on the inboard pad. Usually the indicators are facing downward. Believe me, I read around some time ago and the indicators do face downward. I think it has to do with the indicator catching the residue from the brake pad if the rotor turns from the pad to the indicator as opposed to the indicator 1st than pad. The squeal sound will be the same, but it just has to do with the indicator being free from any of the pad residue.
This was a good informal, instructional video but I have one big gripe with it and it's that you didn't mention any torque specs for the lug nuts, caliper pins, or caliper mounting bolts which are crucial. Just recalling of the top of my head you said something to the effect of tightening them real good. That's good but no cigar. Torq specs are crucial because, as I'm sure you're aware of, you can either over tighten a bolt and break it off or under tighten it and the vibrations will shake it loose. But, more importantly, you'll give the impression that just "tightening them" is sufficient and your viewers, who don't know better, will unknowingly do the aforementioned which could result in a liability to themselves or others. So you may want to consider amending your video to address that. But, overall, I like what you did. Keep 'em coming.
Those Honda Rotor screws are a pain to remove. I had to drill out 3 of them this weekend..not even an impact wrench would help..there is no need to use put them after..
Does the piston actually turn in? Or does it just push in like on GM & Toyota? All I ever used for 30 years is an old brake pad and C-clamp to push it in.
I already did .it cost me 240 for all ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors for all wheels. good thing the also gave me extra . final cost was almost 150. it was really a great deal comparing to others.
www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k5934/overview/year/2012/make/honda/model/accord/submodel/lx-p It depends on the quality you want. Better price at Summit Racing than Amazon or Rock Auto on this set.
+smokesgtp A spotter is definitely good to have in case something goes wrong lol. No problem! Be sure to subscribe for more cool vids. I go live every Friday!
For first timers, rear brakes are different to front. Front brakes you can leave calipers on the rotors whereas, rear brakes, you have to take the entire caliper off. Keeping V strings on is a pain.
My big C-Clamp would have had that piston compressed before you had that silly contraption put together! HAW HAW HAW! I hope you remembered to open the reservoir before you compressed, or you may have had a really bad day.
after a half hour of messing with a clamp trying to compress this piston, I learned it has to screw in. So, in reality, a year later and you still would be messin' with that clamp trying to figure out why it's not compressing. FWIW I used a large screw driver, Ain't buyin' no fancy contraption if I don't have to.
you dont need a professional brake kit to push the piston back level with caliper, all you do is use old brake pad put it up against the piston use a cclamp ,bob your uncle..
That cat will never rust! Great video, getting me through my first DIY brake job. Thanks!
Cat? I thought that was a walking shop rag! Here kitty...
Thanks for putting out this video man. You made it look so easy but it still took me 3 hours to figure out the 1st side. Once I got the hang of it the other side only took about 30 minutes. Thanks for filming.
took me 10 min per side for the front. Going to do the Back Brakes later today.
Great video brother, clean and concise. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and educate the public.
This video did help me, I just finished the brakes on our 2012 Accord. One thing, use new clips, don't reuse them, they are one time use in most cases. The ones I took off were no way reusable. And here is another thing, if you order your brake pads from Honda, kicking myself now. I was told they come with everything I need to install the pads, WRONG! The little wire retainers were in there, but no clips! I called the local Honda dealer wonder WTF? The parts gal said, "You received the correct parts, there is nothing missing, those are extra". Extra? Like how much extra? She told me $14 EACH! That is $56 for one axle, that is more than I paid for the damn pads! And, they were on national backorder... And there is no way in Hell I was going to pay that, but I still wound up driving thirty miles to get a set, AutoZone, $4.79 for a rear set. I had to special order the front clips from Advance Auto, they will be here tomorrow, $18, unreal.
Nice view of the pad retaining clips. Mine fell off and I wasn't sure how to re-attach. The clear photo helped alot. Thanks.
Oh man that technique to get the Phillips screws off saved my day. Thanks for posting!
Thank you very much sir. I was having a hard time getting my rotor off and it came off easy after I watched your video. Keep up the good work!!
Yooo thank you bro I know you posted this 5 years ago but thanks to you I did my first mechanics job fuuuck paying someone else to do it for me
good job man. I can see you care about quality and do not just slap it together with out any lube. You use good discretion keeping the existing and broken in caliper shims. New hardware was not needed. Good video
Thanks brother 💯
Very good video, I had forgotten about the rear caliper needed to rotate the brake caliper piston clock-wise to recess it for clearance. I also found a tool for about $10 that hooks up to a socket wrench, vs. the full kit you showed, which was a bit more work, but still did the job for me. The kit you showed is also reasonable, for about $25 on Amazon, so maybe something to consider if you do a lot of rear brake jobs, but pretty rare event in my case. I also had to use an impact driver to get those pesky rotor screws out, which always seem to rust into the wheel. Video definitely was a relief in the middle of my job on that piston, lol. Keep on rocking bro!
When I am cleaning my new rotors I just clean the surface that the pads touch so the rest of the rotor has rust protection on it... good job 👍🏼
Quick tip. Take some brake lube and put some on the flange of the wheel hub to help keep the rotor from seizing up the next time you go to do another brake job in the future.
Great video. Great step by step instructions 👏 thanks!
Excellent video, but two additional tips:
#1 If the rotor doesn't come off easily after the Phillips screws are removed, you have two options The first option is a hammer. The second is to use the two threaded holes in the rotor provided by the manufacturer. Using two 1" or longer metric bolts having the same thread size as the Phillips screws inserted into the threaded holes, tighten by turns until the rotor pops loose.
#2 A light film of grease on those two washers will help keep them in place while reinstalling the caliper assemble (they tend to fall off easily).
Nice young man and a terrific video.
Thank you!
Best video on you tube. Great job on explaining.👍👍
Great video! I'm about to tackle that task myself and having a "go-by" always helps the job go easier.
Was able to do my brakes by myself thanks to your video. Thanks dude!
+Michael Pock Aye!!!! Thanks for watching bro
Awesome video. You helped me solve my issue. Thanks good job 👍
Great video. Well done. Should probably mention its best to replace those glide pin boots if they are ripped or with holes. Think top one was torn.
Do you ever open the brake fluid reservoir while doing your brake job?
I do
very good video and thank you for taking the time and to explain the whole process!
Great video! So much easier than I thought it’d be. Thank you.
Good video, does it make any difference if the brake pad wear indicator is pointing up or down. I just changed my front and read rotor and pads. Took me about 2 hours total.I really needed that long ratchet, though I might go an amazon get one. I think the oil pan plug use the 17mm also.
Great instructional video! Why does the piston need to be twisted when you compress it? Can't you just use a large "C" clamp to compress it like you can with the front brakes pistons?
Thanks! Very helpful instructions. It saved me lot of $$$.
Good video. Does the cat do brakes? Mine won’t.
Wow💥 nice wrenches 🤗🛠
Leek, what happens if you don't put those silver washers back in the caliper holder? Those keep dropping out every time I attempt to put the bolts back in. How do you keep them from dropping out? Really appreciate your videos. Have a blessed year.
thank you for the video.. one of the washers fell out and i didnt know where it came from
The washer goes on the outer mating surface for the caliper and hub. Basically caliper to hub shim. Sometimes they stay on Sometimes they fall out when removing the caliper. This washer is mandatory or the rotors will be damaged
Excellent tutorial video. Thank you
Great video. Thanks. I needed to watch this.
At 17:00 you are greasing the top slide pin. The pin on the bottom is a bit different, it has a rubber covere tip. Why the difference?
Am having trouble putting the piston back in and turns out my roader screw is messing and the other one snapped smh 🤦🏻 excatly what I didn’t want
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. Love the shop cat!
the brake kit harbor sells now doesnt have two of the threaded parts.
The only time I've ever had a problem with a brake job was when I didn't use the new hardware.... :) Use the new hardware.
Excellent video man much appreciated
Really good video! Very helpful. Subscribed
Can I put the same from rotor on the back for more breaking power !. I see the from brake is thicker than the rear brake which mean the front has more breaking power than the rear because the rotor is thicker and the pads grabs the totor faster than the rear pads on the rotors.
No u can't. Most cars the front rotors does most of the braking and hold heat better than the rear rotor. It wouldn't mount up anyways
Do I need to bleed the back brakes like the front?
Ever run into a stiff piston? My pistons seems a little stiff when tying to rotate back in place. Im considered having them replaced.
+wildmexican12 Yes. You should definitely consider replacing the caliper. Shouldn't be expensive with the core.
+wildmexican12 Replace the brake line as well.
You can use a brake pad and c clamp also to push piston back
U learned something new. Cool
Awesome step by step! Thanks so much!
Can I use an impact gun instead to take out the screws
Thorough video man. Nice work. Did you have to adjust the Emergency brake?
I use a 6"-8" screwdriver to compress the rear caliper by basically just putting the shaft against the flat part between the grooves and pressing while levering it clockwise. Worked fine for me. Didn't need to rent a tool. It gets the job done quick too.
I noticed after i did the front and back brakes that the brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor. Like, you press the pedal and it brakes right away, but if you keep holding the pedal down it slowly falls again till it hits the floor. Does this happen w anyone else? My gf said that her new Honda accord did it too and that all accords do it. Is that ur guy's experience? I didn't touch the bleeder screws on the caliper.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Change my front roters and pads great 👍 👌
Very thorough, thank you
A good idea is to bleed well the brakes after, on all four, to replace the old brake fluid.
very informative video..well done but...maybe invest in a try pod; to free your hands up and for stabilizing the camera
Hey man, great video but in some other video, that guy put the washers in a different way...Im confused with that ...did he put them the right way ? or you put them the right way ?
Great video, Thanks !
The pads at the parts store don't have the holes for the clips, do you recommend using oem pads with the holes or not? thanks
didnt you put the wear warners up side download?
+masa mizota I don't understand?
He meant the Brake Pad Wear Indicators that are on the inboard pad. Usually the indicators are facing downward. Believe me, I read around some time ago and the indicators do face downward. I think it has to do with the indicator catching the residue from the brake pad if the rotor turns from the pad to the indicator as opposed to the indicator 1st than pad. The squeal sound will be the same, but it just has to do with the indicator being free from any of the pad residue.
My caliper bolts won't break should I put some heat to them?
Great Video!
Thank you for posting!
This was a good informal, instructional video but I have one big gripe with it and it's that you didn't mention any torque specs for the lug nuts, caliper pins, or caliper mounting bolts which are crucial. Just recalling of the top of my head you said something to the effect of tightening them real good. That's good but no cigar. Torq specs are crucial because, as I'm sure you're aware of, you can either over tighten a bolt and break it off or under tighten it and the vibrations will shake it loose. But, more importantly, you'll give the impression that just "tightening them" is sufficient and your viewers, who don't know better, will unknowingly do the aforementioned which could result in a liability to themselves or others. So you may want to consider amending your video to address that. But, overall, I like what you did. Keep 'em coming.
50ft lbs on 17mm I believe, 17ft lbs on caliper bolts
I have some bad news for you if you think the world runs so perfectly just because it's being done at a shop.....
hey I come from the Mitsubishi eclipse video you disabled comments on, I wanted to ask you where the fuel filter is and how to replace it
I bet you found it already :)
Those Honda Rotor screws are a pain to remove. I had to drill out 3 of them this weekend..not even an impact wrench would help..there is no need to use put them after..
That's what I did also
Rich Lo what’s the correct size for the rotors? 11.8 - 300mm?
14:32 Damn man, you spraying the cat too?
Is it necessary to depress the brake pedal 40 times for the ABS while doing this?
+Eddiie Sanchez I don't understand what you're saying
Nice vid
Cool good thanks
Nice job sir.
Nice job. I hate having to use that special tool to compress the brake cylinders. Bad design, makes it harder for the mechanic.
Does the piston actually turn in? Or does it just push in like on GM & Toyota? All I ever used for 30 years is an old brake pad and C-clamp to push it in.
Make that 40 years. Damn I'm getting old. lol
Another video answered my question. ua-cam.com/video/NwH1oxbtKyk/v-deo.html
Always had to twist in on Honda. Did it on my 99, 06, 12.
how much break pad and rotor cost?? and thank you for sharing
Meteb Buy parts on Amazon should be less then $300 for everything.
I already did .it cost me 240 for all ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors for all wheels. good thing the also gave me extra .
final cost was almost 150. it was really a great deal comparing to others.
www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k5934/overview/year/2012/make/honda/model/accord/submodel/lx-p
It depends on the quality you want. Better price at Summit Racing than Amazon or Rock Auto on this set.
Can I use a sea clamp to compress the piston?
yes
You can on the front calipers, not on the rears.
Not on a Honda Accord rear caliper. It needs to turn as it’s compressed. That is why he uses that Pittsburgh tool
Good video
nice pipes bud.. what are you benching?
+Candianzrule what do u mean?
Leekautorepair He's saying you have big arms. How much can you bench press?
+smokesgtp Ctfu! My max now is 225, no spotter.......when I was in shape I used to get 275 no problem
Leekautorepair Nice. Should always use a spotter with free weights though man. Thanks for the vid. Made the job much easier.
+smokesgtp A spotter is definitely good to have in case something goes wrong lol. No problem! Be sure to subscribe for more cool vids. I go live every Friday!
Good video.. Thanks
+David devries Thanks for watching bro!
For first timers, rear brakes are different to front. Front brakes you can leave calipers on the rotors whereas, rear brakes, you have to take the entire caliper off. Keeping V strings on is a pain.
otimo video
grato
My big C-Clamp would have had that piston compressed before you had that silly contraption put together! HAW HAW HAW! I hope you remembered to open the reservoir before you compressed, or you may have had a really bad day.
Did you get everything off ya chest?
lol good luck trying to compress rear caliper pistons on this car with just a “c” clamp. Let me know how that works out for you.
after a half hour of messing with a clamp trying to compress this piston, I learned it has to screw in. So, in reality, a year later and you still would be messin' with that clamp trying to figure out why it's not compressing.
FWIW I used a large screw driver, Ain't buyin' no fancy contraption if I don't have to.
You're missing the caliper pad spring.
Thxs!!
Somebody needs a camera stand😹
Why not use the new hardware? That’s just lazy and it only takes seconds.
Didn't know it was easy
My e brake is loose now
Lmao
i think you put the pads on the wrong side of the wheels.
You think it's the same for a Honda Civic 2013
Come on man
you dont need a professional brake kit to push the piston back level with caliper, all you do is use old brake pad put it up against the piston use a cclamp ,bob your uncle..