Good on you for getting a bargain and being able to repair it. It’s really sad when folk do not describe items correctly even when sold cheaply. Still I think you are the winner here. I always check, clean up and carefully retension the pick ups as necessary; ditto clean the wheel contact surfaces and retension the the smaller leading/ trailing bogie axle that is prone to derailing. Quite right on soldering, higher temp short (1 to 2 secs) to quickly flow the solder and form a good inter metallic joint. Always pre tin each part separately let cool completely before doing the final joint … quickly. Really nice club layout - the profiled grass edges are a great way to finish off the scene - if you have got the space! All the best Stephen.
You have an excellent voice and the correct speed of delivery. I have watched your class 50 video and clearly you understand your electronics. I've subscribed so I don't miss future videos and I will check out your back catalogue
Oh well, a sort of a result. Least got a refund so got a loco for essentially free. The missing cab interiors would be a good indication that the model has been mucked about with before-hand. They couldn't get them back in so simply left them out. Good job
For the cost in parts (around £30-£35 ish), this did turn out to be a genuine bargain -- but the original purchase price plus that cost and it would not have been. Missing cab interiors could well have been removed and not replaced as you suggest, they may have been broken, or possibly intentionally taken to repair or upgrade a different model.
Do you know that the tanks are missing from the underside of the centre boxes. They are available individually from Bachmann Spares. I think you need 6, you can tell from the pairs of holes on the underside. Just another wonder how it got like it in the first place.
Just out of interest, I have a Bachmann class 40 and it has similar, long bogeys which I really struggle to keep from derailing. That last wheelset, the one that's held on with the screw, I've tried really tightening it and letting it run loose to give that front wheel a bit of turn - neither seemed to work - how do you run yours?!
That is a common problem in my experience with these older models. You need to take that axle off and carefully adjust the brass spring so it applies more downward pressure to the axle so keeping it seated on the rail and not bouncing . I have three locos, 40, 45 and 46. All had the same problem and cured, get round my R1 (14 5/8”) test track which is uneven and has some old Hornby points (sniffs out loco faults quickly) no problems. Just be careful with flexing the brass, do it a bit at a time. Watch the pick ups too, they occasionally loose pressure and need gently reshaping.
As Stephen says, the brass spring is the key. I had to bend the brass spring into the right shape to get it to stay on the rails. As to the screw, I set it to be easily movable so the axle can turn, but not floppy.
Hi, great video, fine looking loco, I would like to have this in RTC livery one day, maybe Bachmann will retool it or maybe Accurascale will produce one.
I believe Heljan are doing an updated peak at the moment -- I'd be surprised if they tooled a 45 without giving them the opportunity to also produce a class 44 from the same tooling.
@@DongitsModelRailway I’m not a fan of Heljan loco’s, seen too many bad reviews on quality, prefer a Bachmann or Accurascale offering, if Hornby bring one out it would be in their Railroad range, that is a definite no for me, just my opinion.
@@StormmyStormmy Heljan can be hit and miss on accuracy. Some locos are very good, others have shape errors. Some of the shape errors are minor, some are more major and spoil the appearance. I haven't personally had any issues with build quality with Heljan recently though -- my HS4000 needed a bit of post-delivery re-assembly, but that was a long time ago. Every loco I've had from them since has been fine.
@@DongitsModelRailway thanks for letting me know, I will consider them Once I’ve made up my mind, the class 45/6 is a cool looking loco, I’m not sure if Bachmann will retool a new model and only the lord knows what loco Accurascale will bring out next.
Could you not have just swapped the wires to the bogie over to get the drive to always go in the opposite direction to the other one and thus correcting the incorrect drive direction . . .? Hope that makes sense.
No, there's one motor in the centre which has a driveshaft to both bogies. Whatever needs to happen needs to be mechanical, not electrical. The only wires to the bogies here are the pickups -- swapping one bogie over would short the track, and nothing would be going anywhere. Swapping both would just change which way the DCC chip thinks is forward (it would swap from "both inward" to "both outward"), but they'd still run in opposite directions. On a loco with two motors, one per bogie (a common configuration in larger scales) swapping the wires to the motor on one bogie would indeed solve an issue like this though.
I presume someone accidentally put the worm in the wrong way or a different worm drive in from the original, but what I don't understand is why they thought 'hmm yeah I'll just leave it like that'
It's not the wrong way -- if you flip it round, it's still got the same problem. It's actually cut with the wrong spiral. Why on earth Bachmann swapped the worm cut direction at one point in the production run I have no idea, but ... they did. I assume whoever re-assembled it either didn't know why it was doing that, or never even tested it on a piece of track (if you tested for wheels turning while up-side-down and didn't look too close, or only put it on a rolling road, you'd never notice this error). I really don't want it to be the other alternative, which is that they knew it didn't work, had no idea why, and just hoped that whoever bought it would fix it without saying anything...
A great video of your hairy wrist. Take a look at other 'repair' videos and note that they work with the camera facing them to avoid exactly what happened here. Good info, poorly presented.
Good on you for getting a bargain and being able to repair it. It’s really sad when folk do not describe items correctly even when sold cheaply. Still I think you are the winner here. I always check, clean up and carefully retension the pick ups as necessary; ditto clean the wheel contact surfaces and retension the the smaller leading/ trailing bogie axle that is prone to derailing. Quite right on soldering, higher temp short (1 to 2 secs) to quickly flow the solder and form a good inter metallic joint. Always pre tin each part separately let cool completely before doing the final joint … quickly. Really nice club layout - the profiled grass edges are a great way to finish off the scene - if you have got the space! All the best Stephen.
Good on you for getting a bargain and being able to repair it. It’s really sad when folk do not describe items correctly even when sold cheaply. Still I think you are the winner here. I always check, clean up and carefully retension the pick ups as necessary; ditto clean the wheel contact surfaces and retension the the smaller leading/ trailing bogie axle that is prone to derailing. Quite right on soldering, higher temp short (1 to 2 secs) to quickly flow the solder and form a good inter metallic joint. Always pre tin each part separately let cool completely before doing the final joint … quickly. Really nice club layout - the profiled grass edges are a great way to finish off the scene - if you have got the space! All the best Stephen.
I love how you hesitated when you said “bargain”
Nice fix 👍🏻 Looks great pulling a good rake of coaches 😊 I was lucky 🍀 enough to have seen the class 44s st Toton before they met the cutters torch 😮
You have an excellent voice and the correct speed of delivery. I have watched your class 50 video and clearly you understand your electronics. I've subscribed so I don't miss future videos and I will check out your back catalogue
Oh well, a sort of a result. Least got a refund so got a loco for essentially free. The missing cab interiors would be a good indication that the model has been mucked about with before-hand. They couldn't get them back in so simply left them out. Good job
For the cost in parts (around £30-£35 ish), this did turn out to be a genuine bargain -- but the original purchase price plus that cost and it would not have been.
Missing cab interiors could well have been removed and not replaced as you suggest, they may have been broken, or possibly intentionally taken to repair or upgrade a different model.
Do you know that the tanks are missing from the underside of the centre boxes. They are available individually from Bachmann Spares. I think you need 6, you can tell from the pairs of holes on the underside. Just another wonder how it got like it in the first place.
Just out of interest, I have a Bachmann class 40 and it has similar, long bogeys which I really struggle to keep from derailing. That last wheelset, the one that's held on with the screw, I've tried really tightening it and letting it run loose to give that front wheel a bit of turn - neither seemed to work - how do you run yours?!
That is a common problem in my experience with these older models. You need to take that axle off and carefully adjust the brass spring so it applies more downward pressure to the axle so keeping it seated on the rail and not bouncing . I have three locos, 40, 45 and 46. All had the same problem and cured, get round my R1 (14 5/8”) test track which is uneven and has some old Hornby points (sniffs out loco faults quickly) no problems. Just be careful with flexing the brass, do it a bit at a time. Watch the pick ups too, they occasionally loose pressure and need gently reshaping.
As Stephen says, the brass spring is the key. I had to bend the brass spring into the right shape to get it to stay on the rails. As to the screw, I set it to be easily movable so the axle can turn, but not floppy.
Hi, great video, fine looking loco, I would like to have this in RTC livery one day, maybe Bachmann will retool it or maybe Accurascale will produce one.
I believe Heljan are doing an updated peak at the moment -- I'd be surprised if they tooled a 45 without giving them the opportunity to also produce a class 44 from the same tooling.
@@DongitsModelRailway I’m not a fan of Heljan loco’s, seen too many bad reviews on quality, prefer a Bachmann or Accurascale offering, if Hornby bring one out it would be in their Railroad range, that is a definite no for me, just my opinion.
@@StormmyStormmy Heljan can be hit and miss on accuracy. Some locos are very good, others have shape errors. Some of the shape errors are minor, some are more major and spoil the appearance. I haven't personally had any issues with build quality with Heljan recently though -- my HS4000 needed a bit of post-delivery re-assembly, but that was a long time ago. Every loco I've had from them since has been fine.
@@DongitsModelRailway thanks for letting me know, I will consider them
Once I’ve made up my mind, the class 45/6 is a cool looking loco, I’m not sure if Bachmann will retool a new model and only the lord knows what loco Accurascale will bring out next.
Could you not have just swapped the wires to the bogie over to get the drive to always go in the opposite direction to the other one and thus correcting the incorrect drive direction . . .? Hope that makes sense.
No, there's one motor in the centre which has a driveshaft to both bogies. Whatever needs to happen needs to be mechanical, not electrical.
The only wires to the bogies here are the pickups -- swapping one bogie over would short the track, and nothing would be going anywhere. Swapping both would just change which way the DCC chip thinks is forward (it would swap from "both inward" to "both outward"), but they'd still run in opposite directions.
On a loco with two motors, one per bogie (a common configuration in larger scales) swapping the wires to the motor on one bogie would indeed solve an issue like this though.
I presume someone accidentally put the worm in the wrong way or a different worm drive in from the original, but what I don't understand is why they thought 'hmm yeah I'll just leave it like that'
It's not the wrong way -- if you flip it round, it's still got the same problem. It's actually cut with the wrong spiral. Why on earth Bachmann swapped the worm cut direction at one point in the production run I have no idea, but ... they did.
I assume whoever re-assembled it either didn't know why it was doing that, or never even tested it on a piece of track (if you tested for wheels turning while up-side-down and didn't look too close, or only put it on a rolling road, you'd never notice this error).
I really don't want it to be the other alternative, which is that they knew it didn't work, had no idea why, and just hoped that whoever bought it would fix it without saying anything...
Nice one
A great video of your hairy wrist. Take a look at other 'repair' videos and note that they work with the camera facing them to avoid exactly what happened here.
Good info, poorly presented.
Good on you for getting a bargain and being able to repair it. It’s really sad when folk do not describe items correctly even when sold cheaply. Still I think you are the winner here. I always check, clean up and carefully retension the pick ups as necessary; ditto clean the wheel contact surfaces and retension the the smaller leading/ trailing bogie axle that is prone to derailing. Quite right on soldering, higher temp short (1 to 2 secs) to quickly flow the solder and form a good inter metallic joint. Always pre tin each part separately let cool completely before doing the final joint … quickly. Really nice club layout - the profiled grass edges are a great way to finish off the scene - if you have got the space! All the best Stephen.