BMW E91, E90, E92 Front Shock Absorber Strut Replacement. Ultimate Guide Bolt by Bolt
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- BMW E90, E91, E92
Shock absorber replacement on BMW e36 : • BMW e36 Shock Absorber...
Disclaimer: These videos are strictly for educational and entertainment purposes only. Imitation or the use of anything demonstrated in my videos is done at your own risk. I will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or others or damage to your firearms or any equipment resulting from attempting anything shown in any videos.
should of change drop links too,,,didnt you notice play in them
I think it looked fine. I would have changed if it was bad at the time.
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos looked like too much play to me
Thank you for that and well done for doing the job right,for sure the best tutorial ever seen No corners CUT. just glad guys like yourself do exist on this beautiful world no matter where you were.cheers BROTHER
Thanks. Happy to hear that and it motivates me to make more videos to help DIYers. Appreciate your feeback, it means alot.
As far as I know the control arm's inner screw should be tightened to spec when the car is on its wheel, otherwise the bushing will be damaged within a short period of time. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, you are right. I needed to replace the bushing later. I did torque down under wheel pressure after that job. Thanks for commenting.
You deserve to be well rewarded for a well done detailed video. Hope you get a lot of views and followers. All that I would add, as somebody who has never done the repair, is to retorque control arm bolts under load.
Thanks and appreciate your feedback. You are right, I should have mentioned to torque it down the control arms bolts under the load for longevity of bushings.
Good video. Couple things. Break the top mount nut loose while it’s still mounted in the tower. Much easier than when the strut is out. Grease the bearing in the mount. It is easily removed when unbolted, and the bearing is accessible on the bottom side of the mount. Also, that particular strut compressor is the only one that will compress a BMW spring enough to replace the strut. You have to be able to pull from the top side of the strut mount to get things compressed enough.
Great suggestion. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
there is something you need to be aware of, probably doesnt apply to the e90 you are working but i had a little trouble with my f45 216 active tourer, the spring is actually directional, the standard spring i have on the original OEM spring had a sticker showing lower, meaning fit to lower part of the strut, the after market spring i bought didnt have this label, first attempt i knew something was wrong as suspension creaked when steering turned, i got the oem spring and placed on a flat table with sticker suggesting lower at the bottom, it sat at an angle, i then turned it around and it sat straight thats when i knew it was seated incorrectly, i got the aftermarket spring and matched how it sat on a flat surface with the OEM spring, refit to strut and now i have no noises!
Thats true, some model have directional spring. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Did you bring up the knuckle to ride height before you torqued the control arm. Did you replace the $10 gasket that goes on top of the strut mount?
Yes, i did knuckle up at riding height and torque them down. Gasket was in good shap but yes I should have replaced them with the new.
Great video. Extremely detailed really appreciate it but you really took half the car apart. lol 😂. But really thank you
I had to remove all those parts to get the space particular to this car model 😃
Thank you for showing how you got the shock body out. It was the spreader socket that I needed this whole time
I an glad it helped. You can also use chisel if there is no spreader socket available but socket makes it quick and easy. Thanks for the feedback.
Very helpful and detailed, not like others...recommended! Great
Appreciate your feedback :)
Lots of unnecessary extra work all you needed to do was loosen up the control arm bolts and the strut nuts and the whole thing with calipers would have dropped!!!
In my case even if I unbolt strut I still needed to unbolt the control arms. I could have remove cv axle but I did not chose that way since the bolts were quite rusty to remove them.
When I complete my first attempt at the struts in the next couple weeks and post my repair on Bimmerfest, I will be sure to post a link to your video.
I wish I had your open ended socket set, but I don't. I am thinking of using a spark plug socket with a hex as suggested by Bavarian Autosport video, or Impact. As far as tightening the nut, once the nut is fairly tight, will the slender still spin when I take my torque wrench to it.
If you have impact gun then you dont need pass through socket, impact will do its job without any problem. Yes, you can use spark plug socket too. If you have vise grip plier you can use that as well on the old strut. You are right when installing the new strut with new nut, once you snug the nut you can torque it down without using pass through socket. You are spot on. Just be-careful when working on spring compressor and work on side and dont face on vertical side of the spring. Good luck to your project and thanks for your feedback.
All the screws and nuts are supposed to be replaced. But I'm glab you are using good tools and a really fine spring compressor!
I did not feel to replace since all were in good condition, I cleaned them before installing. Only one nut was brand new came up with the strut package. Yes, right tool for the right job makes the job easier. Thanks for the feedback though.
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos let me copy a part of the BMW documentation: "Tension strut to front axle support -> Renew screw and nut. Tighten down in normal position. -> Torque 68NMm then 90°" Since the screws stretch and this stetch doesn't revert, the screw mustn't be used again. The visual condition is not enought as an indicator.
@@matthias_372 Yes, I agree with you that those screws should be replaced. I did not ordered them, but i did torqued them down. Apprciate your concern and guide.
Where do you live in Finland?
thanx for vdo. i always come and watch your vdo.
Glad to hear that. Thanks
perfect
Thanks
Great video
Thanks!
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos no problem
When did you tighten up the shock/strut top mount nut to its full torque, once it’s all in the car? and what torque value? Thanks
I did the final torque once all was done. Torque specs of my car was 34 Nm/25 ft lbs
When you say once all was done, once the shock/strut assembly was back on the car, everything was back together, then you torque the top mount nut?@@carrepairandtoolsvideos
@@ojsannals6877 I snug the bolt tight but not near to torque specs. Then at the end once everything was intalled I finished it with the proper torque specs
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos understood, thanks! I’m struggling to get the right tool at the minute. I’ve got a pass through socket set but it’s not very long and only manages to get the nut on the thread a little. I was going to put it back in the car and then find a better socket where I can tighten it properly
@@ojsannals6877 As I mentioned in the video, use vise grip on the strut bar to hold it unscrew with the normal long socket or use impact gun. My passthrough socket set had long socket as well so it was not difficult. But good luck to your project.
Does the bearing spin freely after you release the spring compressor? Mine still very tight.
Yes, it should move freely. If its not moving freely then its bad and it should be replaced.
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos I disassembled and change the spacer another way around. It moves freely now. However, I torque to spec and it still has little resistance.
@@imanwan2861 Some time there are two spacer. and since you put spacer on wrong direction earlier, are those in good shape? I assume you torqued it right and not over tighten it. even though it should move freely. If everything you installed back right and still it has resistance then i still believe that bearing should replaced. These bearing usually go bad with the time.
@@carrepairandtoolsvideosThanks. I will try to install to the car to see if there any noise. It is a new bearing.
If there is no noise and vibration and if steering handling is good or no balancing issue while driving then i think let it be and you are good go. good luck